SCHIAPARELLI? IT’S NOT JUST the gal who looks a lot like Judy Davis and talks across the decades to Miuccia Prada at the Met, but an entity throwing a party during couture to celebrate the opening of its new headquarters. Never mind that it is not currently a business by any reasonable measure of the word. Rather, it is a trademark with possibilities, at least in the view of Diego Della Valle, one of the fashion industry’s great brand masters, who purchased it, hired a chief executive offi cer, rented offi ce space and is on the

hunt for a designer to help realize the house’s potential.

Make that the brand’s potential. Nobody talks about fashion houses/maisons anymore; in either language, the notion harkens to a quaint and ever-more-distant past, when a fashion house was presided over by a head, the fi rst one typically its creative founder. Now houses have become brands administrated by ceo’s; some are parts of great luxury groups, brands unto themselves. Their operating principle

Designers — They Still Matter

THURSDAY, JUNE 28, 2012 ■ $3.00 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY

WWD

RETAIL REVERBERATIONS

Nordstrom’s N.Y. Move Could Have Deep Impact

Pop Goes Resort Some of the season’s best accoutrements came steeped in the brightest of brights. For a roundup of resort’s stellar accessories, see pages 4 and 5 and WWD.com/accessories-news.

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Ralph Lauren’s calf leather bag.

Kara by Kara Ross’ metal and turquoise resin cuff.

Calvin Klein Collection’s lizard platform.

Kate Spade’s leather handbag.

Valentino’s calf leather handbag.

Reed Krakoff’s leather and metal handbag.

Michael Kors’ python and metal clutch.

Jason Wu’s calf leather and patent leather pump with Swarovski Elements.

Marc Jacobs’ leather and rubber shoe.

RESORT 2013

TRENDACCESSORIES

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THURSDAY, JUNE 28, 2012 ■ $3.00 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY

WWDPREPPING IN PARIS

A LOOK BEHIND THE SCENES AS THE PARIS

MEN’S SHOWS GET UNDER WAY. PAGE MW1

�

BRIDGET FOLEY’S DIARY

SEE PAGE 6

By DAVID MOIN and SHARON EDELSON

CAN NORDSTROM make it in the Big Apple?

Probably, considering shoppers are fi ckle, show little loyalty to any store in particular, and have been long awaiting the arrival of a full-fl edged Nordstrom.

The Seattle-based retailer already op-erates a Nordstrom Rack outlet on 14th Street and a Treasure & Bond charity store on West Broadway in SoHo. But today, Peter Nordstrom, Nordstrom Inc.’s pres-ident of merchandising; Mayor Michael Bloomberg, and Gary Barnett, president and founder of Extell Development Co., are expected to reveal plans to build Nordstrom’s fi rst full-line store in New York City, a fl agship at the base of a fu-ture skyscraper on the north side of 57th Street between Broadway and Seventh Avenue. The skyscraper, at 157 West 57th

Street, is being constructed by Barnett. According to retail experts contacted

Wednesday, it will take at least two years for Nordstrom to get its fl agship up and running. They characterized the footprint as in the vicinity of 300,000 square feet, and bigger than the 230,000-square-foot Barneys New York on Madison Avenue, or the 250,000-square-foot Bergdorf Goodman main women’s store on Fifth Avenue. Yet it’s far smaller than Saks Fifth Avenue, at 646,000 square feet; Lord & Taylor, at 650,000 square feet; Bloomingdale’s, at 859,000 square feet, and Macy’s Herald Square, at more than 1 million square feet.

Still, Nordstrom is making a bit of history. There hasn’t been a department store opening in Manhattan in quite some time.

For its debut, here’s what’s expect-ed, according to the experts. � Nordstrom will double up on its leg-endary service. It’s a tactic that’s been

SEE PAGE 3

2 WWD THURSDAY, JUNE 28, 2012

Lippes Buys Back Namesake Label

Jones Names Bowman to Global Post

Billabong Takeover Talk Reignites

To e-mail reporTers and ediTors aT WWd, The address is firsTname_lasTname@fairchildfashion.com, using The individual’s name. WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2012 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A.VOLUME 203, NO. 133. THURSDAY, JUNE 28, 2012. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in May, June, October and December, and two additional issues in February, March, April, August, September and November) by Fairchild Fashion Media, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive Officer; Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., President; John W. Bellando, Chief Operating Officer & Chief Financial Officer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Officer. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615 5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656 or fax the request to 212-630-5883. For all request for reprints of articles please contact The YGS Group at condenast@theygsgroup.com, or call 800-501-9571. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Fashion Media magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE.

on WWD.CoM

the Briefing Boxin Today’s WWd

Plans to build Nordstrom’s first full-line store in New York City, a flagship at the base of a future skyscraper on 57th Street, are expected to be announced today. PAGE 1 Designers are proving they are crucial to defining a brand’s success. PAGE 1 Billabong International Ltd. is once again the focus of takeover speculation, attracting possibly the attention of Nike and TPG Capital. PAGE 2 Citi stock downgrades for Saks, Macy’s and Nordstrom raise the specter of second-half weakness. PAGE 3 Nora Ephron was remembered at a luncheon Wednesday to celebrate the documentary project “Makers: Women Who Make America.” PAGE 7 On Wednesday, Google said its new 7-inch tablet, the Nexus 7, will cost only $199 and ship in mid-July. PAGE 7 Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana are planning a clients-only couture presentation in Taormina, Sicily, on July 9. PAGE 7 The Milan shows further boosted the confidence of international men’s wear buyers, delivering a range of strong, modern and print-heavy collections. PAGE MW1 Damir Doma has opened his first flagship situated on an intimate courtyard off of the Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré in Paris. PAGE MW2 Freemans Sporting Club has opened a bespoke studio at its New York City flagship and hopes to further expand the franchise. PAGE MW2 Luke Donald, the top-ranked professional golfer, was in New York to fete the debut of the first RLX golf shop and toast the launch with Ralph Lauren. PAGE MW7 Pierre Cardin has a fellow innovator to thank for his return to the Paris men’s wear calendar this season on July 1 during the Tranoï fair. PAGE MW7

Seeing red at Jean Paul

Gaultier during Men’s

Fashion Week in Paris.

PARIS MEN’S FASHION WEEK: An eclectic lineup is in store for Paris Men’s Fashion Week. For more designer inspirations, see WWD.com/menswear-news.

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By Vicki M. Young and PattY Huntington

BillaBong international ltd. is once again the focus of takeover speculation, attracting possibly the attention of nike and tPg capital.

officials at tPg in the u.S. and australia declined com-ment, and their counterpart in australia could not be reached for comment by press time. nike inc. officials also did not return a request for comment.

there’s speculation that other private equity firms might start to eye the surf brand, as well as some strategic players such as PPR. the PPR specu-lation stems from its purchase last year of skate and snow-boarding retail chain Volcom for $607.5 million, which com-petes in the same market as Billabong. in addition, PPR also owns 71 percent of the german sports brand Puma.

troubles began surfacing for Billabong last week when it is-sued a profit warning for the year ending June 30. the com-pany said it expects earnings to come in at 130 million to 135 mil-lion australian dollars, or $130.5 million to $135.5 million. that compares with an earlier fore-

cast of 157 million australian dollars, or $158 million. all con-versions to u.S. dollars are at current exchange.

Billabong last week also sold 221 million new shares and raised 225 million australian dol-lars, or $225.81 million, but at a discounted price as some institu-tional investors began question-ing the firm’s focus. By the time trading resumed on Monday, the gold coast, Queensland-based surfwear firm’s share price dropped as much as 50 percent to a record low of 92.5 australian cents or 93 cents. the drop wiped out more than 200 million australian dollars, or about $200 million, of the company’s capital-ization and ignited talk that the company could become a take-over target.

the share price on tuesday recovered by more than 5 percent after founder and non-executive director gordon Merchant, who owns 15.6 per-cent of the company, told one australian newspaper that he would consider buyout offers. on Wednesday, shares closed nearly flat at 1.03 australian dol-lars, or $1.03.

in February, Billabong rejected three takeover offers from private equity group tPg capital, the

last for 3.30 australian dollars, or $3.53 at the exchange rates at that time, per share. the would value the company at around 817 mil-lion australian dollars, or $765 million at February exchange rates. at the time, Merchant was said to have wanted at least 4 australian dollars.

With a possible change of heart by Merchant, there’s re-newed rumblings that tPg might return to the table with a sweet-ened offer.

“i’m sure tPg has done all the homework and due dili-gence on the business, and we wouldn’t be surprised if they weren’t reviewing the situation and coming back to make some kind of offer” said Morning Star analyst tim Montague-Jones. “But i wouldn’t be surprised if a number of others were also in-terested in it, like the nikes of this world. Billabong is an inter-national brand.”

Billabong officials declined comment.

the company has been re-structuring its business by cut-ting costs and closing stores. in February, the company sold 51 percent of its nixon brand to u.S. private equity firm trilantic capital Partners and nixon’s management for $285 million.

aS PaRt oF its ongoing restruc-turing, the Jones group inc. has tapped Scott Bowman as group president of global retail and in-ternational development.

in this newly created post, Bowman is overseeing the inter-national strategy, as well as retail and licensing for the company’s portfolio of fashion brands.

Most recently, he was chief executive officer of the global consulting firm Scott Bowman

associates. Prior to running his own company, Bowman served as president of international busi-ness development for Polo Ralph lauren corp. and was ceo of Marc Jacobs international.

With his new role, Bowman is based in new York and reports to Richard Dickson, president and chief executive officer of branded businesses at the Jones group.

Bowman’s position will have him overseeing the recently es-

tablished international division, as well as existing retail and li-censing divisions, to integrate strategy and meet growing global demand for the Jones portfolio of brands.

Bowman’s hiring comes on the heels of the appointment of george Sharp, who joined the company earlier this week as ex-ecutive vice president of design, another new post.

— R.F.

By RoSeMaRY FeitelBeRg

BY BuYing back his name and intellectual property from kellwood, adam lippes aims to return to his roots.

terms of the deal were not disclosed.

the parting, which ends a two-year union, required months of negotiating, accord-ing to lippes. the designer also bought his way out of the non-compete clause.

in February, lippes will re-launch his signature adam lippes collection, as well as women’s and men’s basics under the adam label. there will also be a small assortment of bags and belts. the designer said the love adam collection for HSn will no longer be produced.

lippes said he plans to have an intimate presentation rath-er than a runway show for his return. now that he has expe-rienced having the financial might of a major conglomerate, he is ready for a more simpli-fied approach to business. to some degree, he aims to recap-ture the spirit of how things

were when he started his com-pany seven years ago.

“We’re not interested in the very big commercial business where more is more, more, more. i want to go back to how we start-ed out, which was more about friends and family. i want to go back to almost taking the ego out

of it,” he said. “i want there to be an appreciation for what we do. the business had lost its charm and intimacy.”

lippes and his three-person design team (including two whom he has worked with for years and recently traveled with to india) are now based in a Wooster Street studio. “We are able to re-ally think about the brand and do it as we think it should be in-stead of having all of these other big voices coming and telling us what to do,” lippes said.

after joining forces with kellwood two years ago, the companies’ cultural differences made it difficult to integrate the new York-based small designer company with the St. louis-grown brand marketer, lippes said. But former kellwood ceo Michael kramer’s exit was the tipping point. “Mike was really trying to invigorate the company and do different things,” lippes said. “it was challenging to in-tegrate the two companies after Mike left. When they took over production, they wound up ship-ping very late. We were coming from two different places — a new York-based designer and St. louis-based brand marketer.”

An Adam ready-to-wear look for spring 2012.

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WWD.COM

By EVAN CLARK

SummER’S juSt started, but re-tail might be cooling off, particu-larly in the rarefied world of luxe.

u.S. retailers started off the year on an upswing that was aided by a particularly mild winter, but the sales gains start-ed to taper off by late spring. that slowdown has now run headlong into a general weak-ness in women’s designer fash-ions, slower economic forecasts for the u.S. and China and a flair up in Europe’s debt crisis.

All together, that has mud-died the outlook considerably.

“We have a cautious view on the consumer for [the second half] and expect the pace of con-sumer spending to slow, driven by a soft u.S. macro environment; weakness in Europe, including the drag on tourism to the u.S.; uncertainty around the presiden-tial election, and declining con-sumer confidence,” said Deborah Weinswig, an equity analyst at Citi. “the slowdown is being led by high-income consumers, who account for approximately 50 per-cent of spending, own approxi-mately 90 percent of u.S. equities, and are most impacted by stock market volatility.”

Weinswig downgraded shares of Nordstrom Inc., Saks Inc. and macy’s Inc. to “neutral” from “buy,” pushing the stocks lower and weighing on the sector. In her note on Saks, the analyst said, “We see the weakness in women’s de-signer apparel as a more systemic issue that will likely weigh on

[same-store sales] growth ahead.” the category was also cited as a weak point for Nordstrom.

Shares of macy’s Inc. fell 3.1 percent to $33.14, as Saks Inc. declined 3.1 percent to $9.72,

and Nordstrom Inc. dipped 1.5 percent to $47.90. Saks and macy’s declined to comment on the downgrades. A message left at Nordstrom was not returned.

the S&P Retail Index fell 1.1

percent, or 6.76 points, to 600.83, lagging the Dow jones Industrial Average, which gained 0.7 per-cent, or 93.34 points, to 12,627.01 with solid gains in the energy sector. Retail investors were on alert following word tuesday that Conference Board’s Consumer Confidence Index fell to its low-est level since january, dropping to 62 for june from 64.4 in may.

Concerns about the luxe con-sumer are not new. tiffany & Co. ran into troubles in the u.S. in the first quarter and last month lowered its outlook for the year.

Patrick mcGuiness, the jew-eler’s chief financial officer and senior vice president, told in-vestors at the Oppenheimer 12th Annual Consumer Conference Wednesday that challenges are a result of larger macro issues.

“Discounting in the luxury space has been more and more competitive and I think we will continue to see that in these eco-nomic times,” mcGuiness said.

Europe’s debt troubles have weakened the euro and made it more expensive for European tourists to spend on their trav-els. the currency shift cuts two ways, though, since a cheaper euro also makes it less expen-sive for u.S. retailers to buy European made goods.

the recent weakness might also be a reversion to the mean for retail.

Craig johnson, president of Customer Growth Partners, said the year is still on track and that the warm winter gave stores an early boost that skewed sales results.

“the year started out a little hot,” johnson said, noting that core retail sales — excluding automobile, gasoline and res-

taurants sales — were initially trending toward a better than 6 percent increase. johnson is sticking by his projection for a 2012 sales gain of 5.7 percent, a modest rise from last year’s growth rate of 5.6 percent.

“We’re in midtide position,” he said. “that tends to separate the better performers from the weaker performers. At the bot-tom end, the entirety of value is strong and that has not changed. It’s the midtier and the luxe [chains] where you’re getting a separation of the weaker and the stronger performers.”

johnson said his store checks show that Saks, Neiman marcus and Bergdorf Goodman have all been under pressure, while Bloomingdale’s has been weak-er than its corporate cousin, macy’s. Nordstrom, according to johnson, has been doing fine.

Arnold Aronson, managing director of retail strategies at Kurt Salmon, said, “there’s no question that the continued uncertainty is keeping the con-sumer from becoming exuber-ant again, but it’s hard, for me at least, to predict a drastic slow-ing in the business. It will be a moderate stabilization so to speak and then we’ll see what happens.”

Aronson said retailers have been careful to prepare their operations to be able to handle a slowdown

“the caution is not just in sales forecasting, but…in the in-struments of earnings and those are inventories levels, which they’re being cautious about, and expense levels, the cost of doing business.”

— With contributions from AlexAndrA steigrAd

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seen at other openings, to make a strong impression and handle the expected rush of curious consumers.n Nordstrom will also play up its superior selection of shoes, currently among the hottest-selling categories at most de-partment stores.n Nordstrom will have a major impact on other retailers and midtown. the family-run, publicly held chain is likely to grab market share from competitors and force them to up their game. For years, manhattan retailers have feared the arrival of Nordstrom and pondered where it would end up planting a flagship.

there are challenges. For one, the store will be located in a pocket virtually devoid of fashion retailing. Said one Fifth Avenue landlord, “When wealthy women from Europe or the middle East come out of Bergdorf ’s, they never go west. they go east to madison Avenue, or maybe Bloomingdale’s.”

Secondly, there could be is-sues with certain brands that Nordstrom would like to sell at its manhattan flagship but have distribution agreements with other major retailers in town. “this puts Nordstrom right in the heart of Bloomingdale’s, Saks and Bergdorf Goodman country,” said marvin traub, the consultant and former chairman of Bloomingdale’s. “the chal-lenge will be to get the brands, many of which also have their own freestanding stores not

far away.” traub also said that the success of Nordstrom in midtown “depends on how the brands react,” and added, “I suspect Nordstrom is paying a pretty fancy rent.”

Bernard Aiden, chief ex-ecutive officer of Catherine malandrino, which sells Nordstrom, said of the distribu-tion issue, “On the West Side, honestly, there is nothing. Saks Fifth Avenue and Barneys New York are on the East Side. We could use a great store on the West Side. It’s a different neigh-borhood. On the West Side, I don’t see who it’s going to bother. Still, as far as us selling to them, I have to make a little research.”

“Initially, [Nordstrom’s] going to be an island. they have to hope that some more retail fol-lows down the road. Right now, there’s nothing coming down the road,” said joe Sitt, ceo of thor High Street Advisors. “that part of 57th Street is a little bit grun-gy. this will bring it up to snuff. It will help the office and resi-dential in the area more than it’s going to help retail in the area.”

Another source said of Nordstrom’s management, “they felt very badly about not being able to be on Fifth Avenue. In their budget, they found an affordable alternative on West 57th Street.”

“It’s a big deal for New York to get a 300,000-square-foot department store,” said jeffrey Paisner, a retail broker at Ripco. “Department stores have gone out of New York,”

he said, referring to such clos-ings at Gimbel’s, Korvettes, Alexander’s and Ohrbach’s decades ago. “It’s obviously going to bring a critical mass of shoppers over to the West Side. It will be a destination for people on the West Side. A lot of people with a lot of spending power won’t have to always go to Bloomingdale’s or cross town. It’s going to further energize the area along with the time Warner Center. It will have a lot of allure as a shopping destina-tion. there’s going to be a lot of retail square footage where there’s none existing presently.

“that area has had difficulty. [Nordstrom] will create a lot of synergy to bring in brands that were reluctant to open stores there. Hearst tower and other buildings with big retail spaces have been begging for tenants for years. there will start to be some more significant in-fill between the two projects, Nordstrom and time Warner.”

Nordstrom’s assortment tends to be more traditional and less designer-oriented than Bergdorf Goodman, Bloomingdale’s or Saks, and the company for seasons has cited difficulties in some women’s categories. Nordstrom plugged a big hole in its women’s team earlier this month by promoting tricia Smith, corporate merchandise manager for the BP. teen girls’ department, which has been one of the better-performing areas, to executive vice president and general merchandise manager of

women’s apparel two weeks ago, succeeding Loretta Soffe, who left in january.

Concerns were also raised Wednesday when Nordstrom, along with Saks and macy’s, was downgraded by Citibank (see related story this page), which cited a slowing of high-end spending and weakness in wom-en’s designer apparel. Citibank called it “a systemic issue.”

Some retail experts believe the addition of Nordstrom to the 57th Street corridor could create a continuum of shopper traffic from the East Side all the way to the Shops at Columbus Circle on the West Side, altering the area’s pedestrian patterns. the streets along 57th Street, west of Fifth Avenue, have al-ways been fashion challenged.

For Nordstrom to select 57th Street, the economics had to be appealing. the Nordstroms have been very cautious in their search for a manhattan site. the family has looked high and low for over a decade, including ex-amining the former Drake Hotel at 57th Street and Park Avenue; 3 Columbus Circle, as well as properties on West 34th Street, in the Financial District and the former Alexander’s building next to Bloomingdale’s, which became the Bloomberg Building. the most recent consideration was Hudson Yards under devel-opment on the far West Side.

Overall, there were few viable sites for Nordstrom, considering the amount of space required and the preference for situating

in an upscale area where there is a lot of foot traffic.

“What were the alternatives? Hudson Yards? that seems like a long way off,” said one manhattan real estate executive who requested anonymity. “It’s really hard to find a big box in midtown. It’s an incredible op-portunity. Nordstrom will ignite that part of the West Side.”

“When they built time Warner, there were a lot of skep-tics,” said Robert K. Futterman, chairman and ceo of Robert K. Futterman & Associates. “But the Shops at Columbus Circle is working. It’s captured an au-dience. It turns out, the upper West Side customer is really underserved in terms of retail. Nordstrom will really change the neighborhood.”

3WWD THURSDAY, JUNE 28, 2012

High Alert for High-End Retailers?A sERiEs of downgRAdEs fRom Citi

pREssuREd REtAil stoCks wEdnEsdAy.

3.1%

{Continued from page one}

Weighing Nordstrom’s NYC Effect

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4 WWD THURSDAY, JUNE 28, 2012

Get the DetailsResort has definitely moved on from the boring days. The latest season is overflowing with spectacular, must-have accessories.

FOR A COMPLETE ROUNDUP OF RESORT’S

ACCESSORIES, SEE

WWD.com/accessories-news.

RESORT 2013

TRENDACCESSORIES

Tory Burch’s moonstone and raffia necklace.

Givenchy by Riccardo Tisci’s leather, metal and crystal camera bag. Louis Vuitton’s

raffia and leather platform.

Oscar de la Renta’s snakeskin clutch.

Gucci’s metal and resin necklace.

Chanel’s cotton and polyurethane shoe.

Versace’s grosgrain and metal bag.

Nina Ricci’s glass, brass and Swarovski crystal ring.

Pierre Hardy’s napa leather

and canvas wedge.

WWD.COMWWD THURSDAY, JUNE 28, 2012 5

Sergio Rossi’s leather and brass wedge.

Stella McCartney’s glitter, polyurethane and cotton faux croc and clutch.

Fendi’s leather and Lucite pump.

Lanvin’s varnished wood clutch.

Rochas’ cotton wedge.

Sonia Rykiel’s patent calfskin, snakeskin and

resin pump.

Donna Karan’s brass clutch.

Diane von Furstenberg’s snakeskin, lambskin and

leather handbag.

PHOTOS BY JOHN AQUINO, GEORGE CHINSEE, KYLE ERICKSEN AND THOMAS IANNACCONE; STYLED BY ROXANNE ROBINSON-ESCRIOUT

Balenciaga by Nicolas Ghesquière’s calfskin and lambskin shoe.

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(if not the price of their wares) is practically Marxist: The brand is supreme. The individual exists for the good of the brand.

From a business standpoint, true indeed. Just as it’s the evolutionary goal of a species to continue the species, it’s the evolutionary goal of a brand to continue the brand. Companies are intended to outlive their founders and flourish through generations. A primary duty of responsible leadership is to facilitate longevity, requiring a structure and philosophy that deem no one, top designer included, indispensable. Yet fashion — pure fashion, at least — follows a higher calling than mere bottom-line beauty. Stupid-sounding perhaps, but true. I’m not downplaying the importance of making money (it’s glorious; I’d love to make 10 times more than I do) or suggesting that designers as a genre are above concerns of the wallet. But the elite designers, those who drive fashion, those few who will be remembered, do more than design to the bottom line. At its best, their fashion codifies, or even instigates, something in the larger culture, often presenting alternatives to the status quo. At the same time, it speaks directly and with passion to the individual, offering one of the most intimate vehicles for self-expression, self-discovery, self-transformation. At times it awes with exceptional beauty, bravado or emotion. Not a job description all that many people can fill.

With the possible exception of jeans, dating to the 19th century (and here, the lore credits that industrious supplier to the gold-mining set, Levi Strauss), one is hard-pressed to identify a specific, seismic modern-era fashion occurrence for which a brand deserves more credit than the designer. Social movements trigger fashion looks again and again — Gibson Girl, flapper, bobby-soxer, beatnik, hippie — but megabrands, not so much. The New Look — created by Christian Dior, the man, not the brand. Le Smoking — Saint Laurent the man, not the brand. Grunge — Marc Jacobs, the man. (He didn’t invent grunge, but jumped on its fashion resonance. Perry Ellis the brand wasn’t smart enough to keep him employed.) Street-savvy minimalism — Helmut Lang, the man, whose company’s influence far exceeded its volume.

The past 15 years have seen riotous movement at the creative helms of fashion houses/brands. Every owner who has employed a designer to reinvent or take over a brand has been motivated, consciously or otherwise, by fashion’s most successful hire ever, that of Karl Lagerfeld by Chanel. In a piece on the dominance of brand over designer in WWD Collections Magazine in April, Lagerfeld told my colleague Miles Socha, “Chanel is Chanel. Fendi is Fendi. It’s my job to do the image of the companies and not go on an ego trip.”

True, and gracious of Karl to thus articulate. Yet Chanel’s strength of identity today — not to mention the wild bottom-line success — springs as much from Lagerfeld’s near 30-year stewardship of the house codes as the codes themselves; who knows where Chanel would place on fashion’s food chain had Alain Wertheimer made a different hire in 1983?

In Socha’s story, branding experts, talent-search executives and designers alike stressed the importance of a designer staying “true to brand,” implying that to do otherwise would devastate a business. That’s also true when the brand already matters, not only historically but within current business realities. Chanel must stay on brand as we know it, in part because Lagerfeld has so brilliantly

nurtured the house codes. At Dior, staying on brand is essential, but means something very different than at Chanel. The Bar Jacket hasn’t traveled as well through time as Mademoiselle’s tweeds, and at his brilliant Dior height, John Galliano created incredible magic, but of a kind lean on workable day clothes.

In some high-profile instances, appointment of the right designer has triggered revival. The masterful Cristóbal Balenciaga makes the short list of all-time fashion greats. But leapfrog a half-century or so after his

prime, and you found no consumer clamor for a redux of his long-dormant ready-to-wear. Thankfully, its owners had a keen eye for design talent. Balenciaga’s second act has flourished because

Nicolas Ghesquière, an unknown 26-year-old when he presented his first runway collection, made it so. That Ghesquière incorporates precise archival references into his supremely modern work wouldn’t matter if his Balenciaga didn’t resonate so powerfully with the designer customer.

Lanvin — how many semi-knowledgeable fashion consumers could state one fact about Jeanne Lanvin, let alone identify a dress? Lanvin matters today because Alber Elbaz has created something wonderful for — as he loves to remind us — women of today; not because he takes some draping cues from a long-forgotten designer.

In the Nineties, with fashion mired in heroin-chic/deconstruction doldrums, along came Tom Ford. His “reinvention” of Gucci’s golden age of the Seventies

was more marketing than reality; fashionwise, there wasn’t much to build on. One can argue correctly that the business has exploded further under the savvy stewardship of Frida Giannini; few would maintain the fashion impact has escalated similarly. Prada was a generations-old, staid family business. A genius granddaughter turned it into a directional mecca via explosive fashion rooted in insightful reading of the cultural moment.

More recently, the arrival of “the right” designer has had dramatic impact on established houses. Phoebe Philo has made Celine one of fashion’s driving forces. Riccardo Tisci might work a jockey cap or two into his lineups, but it’s hardly his celebration of the house iconography, which in popular perception doesn’t run much further than Audrey Hepburn in an LBD, that has thrust Givenchy into the

forefront of inspirational (to consumers and other designers) houses.

“I work for Nina Ricci,” Peter Copping told Socha. “My personal aesthetic and taste lean very closely toward Nina Ricci, so it automatically makes for a good fit.”

At Alexander McQueen, the elevation of Sarah Burton has proven golden, so much so that PPR is now engaged in a level of brand expansion not attempted with Lee McQueen at the helm. To be honest, I read Samantha Conti’s WWD story last week a bit wistfully, happy for the extremely gifted and deserving Burton, for McQueen’s legacy and for the house, but sad that he is better known and more widely appreciated in death than in life. Despite her completely accidental ascent, Burton has proven herself perfect for the brand, fabulously

talented (if less so than McQueen, a rare and real artist) and willing to actively translate the runway glory into the spoils of a workable business.

Hiring the right person for the job is the goal of every h.r. person with an open head count. At the highest creative level of fashion, that basic concept has somehow translated into the belief that, in this age of omni-channel branding, the message trumps all else, including the level of design. A frightening thought, and one debunked by plenty of recent evidence. Where might Halston be if 10 years ago Elbaz had been recruited there rather than by Shaw-Lan Wang at Lanvin? What if Ghesquière had risen through the ranks at Ungaro? What if 15 years ago, Bernard Arnault had hired someone other than Jacobs at Louis Vuitton? The house would surely be the cash cow it has always been, but perhaps not with the fashion profile it enjoys today.

There are multiple levels of success. We all know that bags, shoes and fragrance drive the business, a condition unlikely to change. And Godspeed. Again, fashion brands exist to make money. Not all fashion financiers, nor the executives they enlist to direct their brands, aspire to the higher calling of fashion. Fine there, too. Burberry seems to fit into that category. Early in his tenure, Christopher Bailey emerged as one of the drivers of fashion; more recently, his runway seems to have taken a backseat to larger branding efforts via social media, along the way downgrading Burberry as a directional fashion player but certainly not as a luxury brand.

Yet as Elbaz said poignantly during his resort presentation in New York recently, fashion cannot lose the aspirational element, the dream. In less than a week, Raf Simons’ debut for Dior will be history. The reviews will be in, social media will be swirling and the next chapter in the remarkable life of one of fashion’s greatest brands will have commenced. In the fall, we’ll get our first look at Hedi Slimane’s Yves Saint Laurent women’s collection. For anyone who loves fashion, the anticipation for both is intense not merely because each house boasts a new designer but because these particular designers telegraph the possibility of something great, something special.

Dior is a huge global brand with a name that resonates deeply and a rich history about which many people know something. Saint Laurent is a not-huge brand with a name that resonates deeply and a rich history about which many people also know something. That prior knowledge heightens the pressure on the respective designers, who postshow will likely read whether critics deemed their efforts worthy or not of the hallowed house names — a challenge demanding rare talent, fortitude and nerves of steel on the part of the designers. Most likely, Simons and Slimane feel compelled to work the house codes to some degree. Slimane telegraphed as much via his decision to revert to a logo close to the company’s original ready-to-wear signage.

At Schiaparelli, let’s hope whomever gets the job doesn’t feel that particular pressure too acutely. Other than those who have attended “Impossible Conversations” at the Met, only the truly fashion-obsessed care much about, or even know much about, Schiaparelli’s creative ethos. Were someone to emerge with the wit and deft touch to work those Surrealist motifs with modern ease — delightful. But a lobster sweater amuses once (maybe). Fashion that resonates with women on a daily basis has enduring appeal, whether from a megabrand such as Dior or a successful rebirth from dormancy, à la Balenciaga and Lanvin. Either way, the designer matters. A lot.

6 WWD THURSDAY, JUNE 28, 2012

The elite designers, those who drive fashion, do more than design to the bottom line.

Brands Don’t Create; Designers Do{Continued from page one}

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Bridget Foley’s Diary

A fall look from Jil Sander by Raf Simons, who makes his debut at Dior on Monday.

A recent resort look from

Chanel by Karl Lagerfeld,

fashion’s most successful

designer employee.

WWD.COM

ALL ABOUT NORA: The last lunch the Harpies had with Nora Ephron almost didn’t happen.

The Harpies are a group of accomplished women who’ve been meeting regularly for lunch for years, maybe a little over a decade. No one’s ever kept track.

There are nine of them, like in the Supreme Court, and they’re all sages in their respective worlds — journalism, public relations, politics, gossip. There’s Barbara Walters, Liz Smith, Jennifer Maguire Isham, and publicists Peggy Siegal and Maurie Perl, among others. Smith came up with the nickname.

The lunches are always off the record, never at the same place. They talk politics and cosmetics, media shake-ups and family, breakups and the virtues of truffle sandwiches.

Ephron was one of the last to join. And when she did — no one remembers when exactly (maybe five years ago?) or who invited her — it was strange to everyone that she hadn’t joined before.

The chats, quippy and serious, and the women themselves — successful, opinionated — seemed ripped from one of her essays or movies.

“It felt as though she’d been part of the group for years, like she’d had a seat at the table forever,” Perl said.

Usually they rescheduled when they couldn’t make full quorum. But in May, though only six could come, they went ahead and met anyway. Ephron and Barbara Walters picked the place — Le Petite Maison in Midtown Manhattan.

They sat in a round table, as was the custom, in a corner near the back and it was quiet, one of the few occasions when they didn’t have to shout over the usual chatter of the restaurants. It’s hard now for them to remember what they talked about; when asked about the lunch Wednesday, Walters just shrugged and smiled. They were never meant to be anything more than no-bull gab-a-thons, she said.

But the women of the Harpies remembered Ephron’s spirit that afternoon. “Nobody knew she was sick,” Smith said. Not that she would have let on. She was indomitable, averse to melancholy, more likely to soliloquize about the smoked salmon at Barney Greengrass than an illness.

“Nora was someone we all wanted at the table. We always wanted to know what Nora thought about any given subject,” Perl said. “She didn’t preach. She gave you an opinion or a point of view. And on a personal level, she was extremely generous and kind to each of us independently.”

Many women have offered condolences and remembrances online and via the press since Ephron’s passing Tuesday at 71. For young women, her death represents the loss of a talisman, a woman who epitomized success on personal terms.

But it’s a testament to Ephron’s legacy and influence that she wasn’t just a role model to a younger

generation, but to her peers as well. At a luncheon Wednesday to

celebrate the PBS/AOL documentary project, “Makers: Women Who Make America,” where Ephron herself is featured, her passing set the tone for the afternoon, and several high-profile women — Walters, Gloria Steinem, PBS president Paula Kerger and “Makers” filmmaker Dylan McGee, who quoted Ephron’s Wellesley commencement speech — paid tribute from the podium. Steinem said it was fitting for Ephron to be featured in a collection of female personal histories.

“With her usual wit and timing, she has left us words and film,” Steinem said. “There’s literally no stronger argument for creating this inspiring, irresistible record of women than to have Nora’s words with us today.”

Walters singled out the bond that the women of the Harpies cultivated.

When Ephron joined, “she brought everything that she is,” Walters said minutes before her speech. “The humor, the honesty, the people she met, the things she’d done.”

The Harpies got an intimate, table-side look at Nora the raconteur, Nora the food lover, Nora the confidante. When they were going through tough times, it was Ephron who comforted them over a lunch of truffle sandwiches.

“I’ll treasure those kind of quiet, thoughtful moments with her,” Perl said. “She’s somebody I’m grateful and blessed that I could say I know. I missed her even when I didn’t see her.”

Even among a group of women who are all accomplished in their own right, Ephron was someone to look to for advice. Her life experience gave her an uncanny sense of empathy for other women’s stories.

“There’s some in the group that are younger than others, but we all liked and respected each other tremendously,” Perl said. “These are a core group of women who are all very supportive of each other.”

“I had a tremendous amount of respect for her,” Siegal said. “She was a role model especially among successful women because she really had it all. She came from a family that was very accomplished. She went through two divorces. She had children. And yet she had this unbelievable career.”

For women, young and old, Ephron was also a cheerleader.

“She always made you feel better about what you were doing. She was always a fan,” said Maguire Isham, an executive vice president at the Tribeca Film Festival who is one of the younger Harpies. “The thing about Nora was that she said you could do more than one thing. She always said she reinvented herself every 10 years. And she always pushed us to do that. That was a big thing coming from her.”

With Ephron gone, it’s not clear what will happen to the Harpies. “I think we’re all shattered,” Smith said. But Perl says eventually they’ll pick up again.

“I think Nora would find it very strange if we stopped,” she said. — ERIK MAZA

7WWD THURSDAY, JUNE 28, 2012

FASHION SCOOPS FIRE FIGHT: Amazon’s Kindle Fire has a new competitor in the wings. On Wednesday, Google said its new seven-inch tablet, the Nexus 7, will cost only $199 and ship in mid-July. Google also said it would expand Google Play offerings to include magazines, which is directly aimed at Apple’s Newsstand.

Most magazine publishers have already signed on with Google, including Hearst, which will have all 20 of its titles available for purchase on Android smartphones and tablets. Hearst is offering single copies of Esquire, Elle, Good Housekeeping, House Beautiful and Seventeen for 99 cents for a limited time as part of the launch. Condé Nast has five magazines available on Google Play, including GQ, Bon Appétit, Vanity Fair, Wired and Condé Nast Traveler. The rest of the portfolio will roll out in the coming weeks, said a spokeswoman.

Rodale has launched all of its magazines on the platform, marking the first time its titles are available on Android devices. The most recent single issues will be available for 99 cents. Meredith is also on Google Play, with magazines such as More, Every Day with Rachael Ray and Ladies’ Home Journal. — AMY WICKS

SICILY, SOTTO VOCE: Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana are planning a clients-only couture presentation in Taormina, Sicily, on July 9. It’ll be a far cry from their usual paparazzi-popping, starlet-populated, multimedia runway blitzes. In fact, no press are invited.

The designers have been warming to the idea of exclusive, unique gowns, not unlike those spotted in May on Scarlett Johansson, Bianca Brandolini d’Adda and Andrea Dellal on the red carpet at the Costume Institute gala at the Metropolitan Museum of Art. Dolce and Gabbana reportedly have been mulling a couture line for some time. Word has it that the July presentation on their home turf is an experiment to see if the designers want to take the concept further into a full-fledged business.

— LUISA ZARGANI

SIMMONS’ JEWELRY BOX: Gene Simmons’ wife and daughter are making their own foray into self-expression, albeit via a very different route than that of the Kiss front man. In collaboration with the Home Shopping Network, Sophie and Shannon Tweed-Simmons will launch an accessories collection called Sophie & Shannon’s Jewel Box. Comprised of costume jewelry, belts, dresses and handbags, the line is meant to span generations, incorporating pieces that both a mother and daughter can wear.

“I enjoyed doing this mother-daughter project because I wanted to show how we could share clothes and achieve different looks,” Shannon Tweed-Simmons told WWD. “I take Sophie’s things and call them ‘hand-me-ups.’ She takes mine and calls them ‘hand-me-downs.’ ”

“The most challenging part of the process was picking only a few things out of the buckets of ideas we had,” said her daughter.

The collection, which ranges from $24 to $99, will launch on HSN, hsn.com and HSN mobile on July 30. — KRISTI GARCED

MEMO PAD

A five-stone necklace by Sophie & Shannon’s Jewel Box.

Gloria Steinem

Barbara Walters

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MAN OF THE WEEK

Under WaterWhile getting attention with a capital A for his in-pool exploits of late, Ryan Lochte’s style sense is far from golden. Page MW7

PLUS:Pierre Cardin returns to the Paris men’s wear calendar at the Tranoï trade show. Page MW7

MILAN WRAP-UP

Sportswear, SeparatesAre the Key ItemsFor Stores This SpringRetailers at the Milan shows were also attracted to the loose fabrics and beautiful colors on the runways.

June 28, 2012

by WWD Staff MILAN — The shows here further boosted the confidence of international men’s wear buyers, delivering a range of strong, modern, summery, colorful and print-heavy collections.

“I think the message is clear that sports-wear and separate jackets are driving busi-ness, apart from knits and wovens. There was a very strong presentation on tailoring, but it was decidedly more focused on separates,” said Tom Kalenderian, executive vice presi-dent and general merchandise manager of men’s wear at Barneys New York. Designers were focusing on putting forward collections that differentiate spring from fall, he noted.

“Designers used the runway to speak to the lightness of fabrics, beautiful colors, especially blues, every shade from navy to sapphire to a beautiful Mediterranean Capri blue or a brighter Yves Klein blue; blue is by far the most important color.”

“A very nice week, very fresh, a real sum-mer season full of color, with touches of humor,” echoed Tancrède de Lalun, gmm for men’s and women’s apparel at Printemps. “The spring man is an elegant playboy of sorts, who wants to wear a nice jacket, beau-tiful shoes…”

“Designers are taking chic to another level, infusing sophisticated color pair-ings in sportswear and clothing. Gucci was a great example of this. The terrific styling of the show demonstrated how a man can wear such bold color or prints in a strong and masculine way,” commented Matthew Singer, men’s fashion director, Neiman Marcus Stores, Neiman Marcus Direct and Bergdorf Goodman. “Color continues to be a driving force for men. The bright colors are very exciting, especially in pants.”

Other key spring colors included Bordeaux, red, tobacco brown, pine green and mustard.

“I think Milan is moving in a very mod-ern direction, which I like. Traditionally, Milan has been more classically oriented and I see it really moving ahead with exper-imental tailoring, it has a really modern feel right now to me,” said Eric Jennings, men’s fashion director at Saks Fifth Avenue, who mentioned the bomber jacket among key items for spring.

Prints were rife, as were metallics, which surfaced on everything from shirts and out-erwear to accessories, though retailers ex-pect the shiny trend will take a year or two to trickle down to guys on the street.

David Wakely, divisional merchandise manager of men’s wear for Lane Crawford, found the Milan season full of theater and

{Continued on page MW6}PHOTO BY MARLEEN DANIELS

BY A NECK The men’s wear shows have moved to the French capital, a showcase for designers from Japan, America, Belgium and beyond. Here, Dries Van Noten gingerly adjusts

a collar on a model at his Antwerp, Belgium headquarters. For a look inside more studios as designers prepare their spring collections, see pages MW4 and MW5.

Men’s Week

Balenciaga

MW2 WWD Thursday, June 28, 2012

by KATYA FOREMAN

PARIS — Five years after launch-ing his brand, Damir Doma has opened his first flagship situated on an intimate courtyard off of the Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré.

Framed by Burberry, Brunello Cucinelli and Comme des Garçons boutiques, the three-story site, which is accessible by a set of stone steps, measures about 2,000 square feet.

“The idea was to give the feel of a Parisian building that has been gutted,” said architect Rodney Eggleston, who juxta-posed “typically Parisian” details such as sections of aged parquet flooring, with industrial elements — exposed concrete walls, sus-pended brass clothing rails and black, burnished plaster walls.

Striking features include a ceil-ing of aged mirrored squares, each with silver partially eroded away at the back to allow light to pass through, as well as a stacked trav-ertine marble platform running along one wall, which serves as a table for bags, shoes, jewelry and knitwear. The ground floor has a roomy changing room behind a long leather curtain, and a small seating area, both near the cash wrap.

A monumental staircase made from artfully stacked slabs of trav-ertine marble connects the levels.

“The idea was to try to trans-late some of the main elements of my work into the store’s de-sign, working with oppositions; working with precious things, but at the same time being very raw and pure,” Doma said dur-ing an interview at the store in the run-up to the opening.

The project came around a little faster than expected, he said. “We were planning to open a store in the near future, but didn’t expect it to happen this quickly. The location came up and we had to jump on it. It’s great for us to be next to Comme des Garçons, I think we share a lot of clients and a similar philosophy,” he said.

Men’s and women’s clothing is presented together on the store’s first and second floors, along with pieces from the brand’s diffusion line, Silent by Damir Doma.

Doma said the top floor would be used as a private space for clients, and also to showcase spe-cial collaborations exclusive to the store. An eyewear line with Mykita is planned for September, for instance. The designer will also create special garments for the boutique and is working on a scent project with Givaudan’s Antoine Maisondieu.

Doma said he wants the store to serve as a template for poten-tial retail partners. He hopes to open two stores in Asia next year.

The Damir Doma brand is jointly owned by Doma and Paper Rain SA, a Paris-based company that bills itself as an incubator and management company specializ-ing in luxury fashion and design.

In June 2011, Paper Rain ap-pointed former longtime LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton ex-ecutive James Greenfield as man-aging director of its Paris-based

luxury and accessories division, in charge of the Damir Doma as well as the company’s Silent and Côte & Ciel brands. Paper Rain also appointed Carlo Zollo as commercial director for Doma’s men’s and women’s ready-to-wear collections.

“It was a big boost for us,” said Doma. “We are growing from a design company into a real brand, and it’s not easy for me to manage all this. Designing is one thing, but designing a company is another. I am learning so much about management from James.”

Doma, 31, was born in Croatia and grew up in Germany. His mother, Zdenka Doma, owns a tex-tile factory near Lake Chiemsee in southern Germany and develops most of the brand’s woven sam-ples. The collection is produced in Italy. Doma’s sister, Dorotea, de-signs the brand’s jewelry.

Declining to disclose sales figures, Doma said men’s, with which he started out, is still slightly stronger, though wom-en’s, introduced for fall 2010, is quickly catching up.

by JEAN E. PALMIERI

HIPSTER FAVORITE Freemans Sporting Club has opened a bespoke studio at its New York City flagship.

The 1,000-square-foot spot is tucked away at the end of Freeman Alley, off Rivington Street, between Chrystie and Bowery, and accessed by walking through the company’s restaurant, Freemans, and up a flight of stairs hidden behind a faux bookcase.

The shop, FSC Bench-Made Bespoke Studio, opened with little fanfare earlier this month after being tested for six months, and produces custom clothing on-site that retails for $3,950 and up. The by-appoint-ment-only shop boasts five full-time in-house bench tailors, seven sewing stations and two cutting tables. The operation is overseen by Alex Young, studio director, and master tailor Felix Aybar, who previously worked for Giorgio Armani and Tom Ford.

The bespoke offering comple-ments the off-the-rack suits sold in the main store. Those suits are manufactured by Martin Greenfield in Brooklyn and sell for $1,800 to $2,400. The street-level store also sells sportswear and accessories and has a barber shop in the rear.

“We’re trying to evolve the brand,” said Kent Kilroe, Freemans managing director. “And we were fortunate to find an amazing tailor, which encouraged us to bring anoth-er level to our quality and service.”

Freemans, which is owned by the restaurateur Taavo Somer, who also serves as creative direc-tor, and his partners Kilroe and William Tigertt, has built its repu-tation on offering products made in America by skilled artisans.

Each bespoke suit takes around 60 hours of labor to pro-duce. Customers will be fitted four times, and a custom suit will be

produced to their specifications in around 12 weeks. Three “posture photographs” are also taken of each customer so any issues that could impact the fit of the suit can be addressed, according to Young.

The finished suit will include a personalized label with the cus-tomer’s name and the date it was completed. Young said he hopes to eventually get the completion time down to six weeks, and possibly four.

In addition to suits, Freemans Bespoke also offers custom dress shoes from Allen Edmonds, a col-lection of vintage timepieces curat-ed by Hodinkee, and bespoke belts, wallets and bags from AE McAteer.

“The focus of the room is all about the environment,” said Young. “It’s like a private store. People can come up here from the restaurant with a cocktail to be fitted. In fact, we encourage late-night visits.”

The company’s West Village location on Bleecker Street has also installed a bespoke depart-ment, Young said, and eventually Freemans would like to offer the service at its San Francisco store as well. “We haven’t found a tailor we’re happy with,” said Young.

In fact, finding skilled tailors was perhaps the biggest challenge when deciding to take the plunge into custom, but Freemans was able to find workers that fit the bill. “When we made the investment of money and time, we were worried whether we’d be able to keep them busy,” said Kilroe. “But they’re making eight to 10 suits a month now, and we’d like them to make 20 or 30.” The Bleecker Street store is producing four to five suits a month.

Somer said he hopes to further expand the Freemans franchise by looking into the Japanese mar-ket next year, and he also hopes to open additional stores on the West Coast.

Damir Doma Opens Paris Boutique

The bespoke shop is located above Freemans restaurant.

The Paris store, here and below, features typical

Parisian elements.

City of Light(s)The men’s shows kicked off in Paris with designers showing looser

and less rigid silhouettes inspired by classic men’s shapes.

Balenciaga: A looser, easier silhouette took shape this season, bringing to mind the dandy style of Japanese composer Ryuichi Sakamoto in the Eighties. Long, boxy coats had kimono-sleeve construction, some in unlined silk seersucker fabric. Roomy too were long shorts and an elongated tailored jacket. It was a confident new step for the brand into the men’s arena. Artsy touches included optical motifs on T-shirts, a tropical flower print and vibrant Tamara de Lempicka colors to enliven the stark black, white and gray.

Mugler: Why an undersea theme for Nicola Formichetti?

Because Mugler’s digital-savvy creative director — prone to live-streaming and crowdsourcing — decided to go offline this season and “under the sea is the only place we can’t have Wi-Fi,” he laughed. He and men’s wear designer Romain Kremer brought in a new tailoring team and honed in on fundamentals — jackets, pants and shirts — “without being too extreme,” as Formichetti put it. Although the gill-like slashes and jutting fins were outré, his suits had a taut, muscular presence. And the theme worked swimmingly for graphic scuba tops and sleek

trenchcoats in sea foam green or oil-slick black.

Hardy Amies: For the British label’s Paris debut, creative director Claire Malcolm mined the late Hardy Amies’ style and the rarefied world that Cecil Beaton chronicled — from the Thirties through to the Sixties. But her appealing lineup of sharp, single-breasted suits looked modern, not retro, in shades of white, royal blue and navy, particularly when a printed parka was tossed over. Prints nodded to times past, such as a faded geometric motif on light cotton shirts and a kaleidoscopic ice blue and white print done on a tuxedo jacket.

Freemans Adds Bespoke Studio

Mugler Hardy Amies

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Men’s WeekMW4 WWD THURSDAY, JUNE 28, 2012

HOMME FRONT PARIPierr

GREAT FIT WITH AMI’S ALEXANDRE MATTIUSSI. PARIS MATCH AT CHRTWO STEPS AT DAMIR DOMA.

GONE FISHING WITH KIM JONES AT LOUIS VUITTON.DOUBLE VISION AT VIKTOR & ROLF.

PACKED AND READY TO GO AT KRIS VAN ASSCHE.

WILD AT HEART AT MAIS

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Men’s Week MW5WWD thursday, june 28, 2012

PARIS — From a sea of luxury nauticalwear at Louis Vuitton to Space-Age chic courtesy of Pierre Cardin, an eclectic lineup is in store for Paris Men’s Fashion Week. — Laurent Folcher

Paris Match at christoPhe leMaire.

wild at heart at Maison Martin MarGiela. haVinG a whale of a tiMe with thoM browne. the riGht to bare arMs at ricK owens.

seeinG red at Jean Paul Gaultier. John Galliano’s three aMiGos.

straiGht JacKet at dior hoMMe.

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w28b004(5)b;9.indd 5 6/27/12 6:49 PM06272012185239

Men’s Week

Retailers Respond to Modern Milan

MW6 WWD THURSDAY, JUNE 28, 2012

surprise. “There has been a sense of confi-dence that was not evident in previous sea-sons. From the return of Jil Sander showing a collection of bold color and graphics, the sophistication of Burberry Prorsum’s sharp tailoring and metallics, to the showman-ship of Dolce & Gabbana’s Sicilian boys and Versace’s gladiators, there is much excite-ment, with men’s wear more playful than before. Men are dressing up and showing off,” he said.

Jil Sander, Gucci, Dolce & Gabbana, Prada, Burberry Prorsum, Emporio Armani, Bottega Veneta, Belfast, Z Zegna and Trussardi were among the collections that received wide praise from buyers.

Several of them applauded Sander’s debut effort back in the driver’s seat of her namesake brand. “I thought the runway was very modern and showed a definite power of this designer coming back into control of the brand,” said Barneys’ Kalenderian. “Going to the showroom, looking at the clothes up close, I thought that the fabrics were exquisite and there was a definite change in production, especially for the tai-lored clothing, where she upgraded product and silhouette and feel, the level of luxury is superb.”

Prada’s collection was equally as im-pressive, he said. “The textiles you saw on the runway were actually natural, it’s a dou-ble cotton, with a double-face construction, it had so much body and a soft, cashmere touch. The conceptual appearance was very modern and graphic, the clothes are very luxurious.…This was, I think, a very good example of Prada at its best.”

Here’s more of what buyers had to say:

Toby baTeMan, buying direcTor, MrPorTer.coMSound off: “It was the first season that I man-aged to stay out of the bar at the Principe and I am very happy for it. I could see the collections particularly clearly this season.” Trendspotting: “Double-breasted suits and jackets remain a key trend. Trousers are slim, for the most part, and were often fin-ished a little short with a turned-up ankle. Otherwise, we saw trousers with pleats, and tapered at the hem. The ‘short’ suit is definitely here (both on and off the run-way). Silk fabrications were evident, which goes hand-in-hand with the opulence of the continuing prints trend. In formalwear, we saw tuxedos of all varieties being shown in black and white, of wool and silk. The Fifties seemed to be an inspiration for the color palette and the shapes we saw.”

david Wakely, dMM of Men’S Wear, lane craWfordSound off: “The overall mood in men’s wear right now is one of confidence and positiv-ity. There are lots of commercial looks to get behind, which will allow us to present the best offer for men’s wear.…In terms of brand mix and offer, we’re looking for ex-clusivity and uniqueness, newness for our fashion savvy Asian market.”Trendspotting: “Modern tailoring was key — whether the…34-length sleeveless topcoats at Jil Sander or the neat, slim suiting at Neil Barrett and Burberry Prorsum. The double-breasted blazer has been reinter-preted differently, which is refreshing.”

ToM kalenderian, execuTive vice PreSidenT and gMM of Men’S Wear, barneyS neW yorkTrendspotting: “A lot of the trends were driven by cloth, a lot of cloth development and dou-ble-faced fabrics. Unlined is an important trend in outerwear and tailoring. Contrast color. And in shirting there’s quite a bit of print. They’re either micro designs that remind you of Macclesfield or Spitalfields designs from textile mills, or you see big splashes of pattern in a floral motif.”

Tancrède de lalun, general Merchan-diSe Manager for Men’S and WoMen’S aPParel, PrinTeMPS Trendspotting: “For shoes, the slipper or tas-seled moccasin, often worn with summer socks. Prints were major, with allover prints and a lot of kinetic designs.”

Jeffrey kalinSky, execuTive vice PreSidenT of deSigner MerchandiSing, nordSTroMSound off: “Spring ’13 feels optimistic. Our customers are asking for more brands and bolder fashion, so spring will be a great sea-son for us, and our budgets will be bigger.”Trendspotting: “Lots of bold colors anchored in white or khaki. Military green also looked beautiful. Safari jackets were plen-tiful, usually in classic linen. Voluminous shorts (and shorts in general) were every-where in all fabrications, even leather.”

eric JenningS, Men’S faShion direcTor, SakS fifTh avenueTrendspotting: “Almost every kind of print, whether it’s florals, tropical, little medal-lion prints, chinoiserie, exploded tropical. Footwear is another hot topic right now. The brogue continues, but it’s not your fa-ther’s brogue. There are many variations — mixed media, casual, dressy. Then there’s

soft footwear, going from basketweaves and plays on the espadrille, to mesh, per-foration and color. Color in footwear is very strong. The sneaker seems to be mak-ing a return to the catwalk this season and Salvatore Ferragamo just nailed it.”

MaTTheW Singer, Men’S faShion direc-Tor, neiMan MarcuS SToreS, neiMan MarcuS direcT and bergdorf goodManSound off: “Despite the temperature being a little too warm at times, the energy was high and the vibe positive.”Trendspotting: “Prints, with a focus on shirts. Short-sleeve is going to be important for us. Loving the lightweight blouson for next season, it’s a retro style done in a modern way. In accessories, it’s definitely in soft constructed bags and portfolios.”

Tiziana cardini, faShion direcTor, la rinaScenTeSound off: “It was a good week, all shows were interesting from a design standpoint and were a guidance for the market. The collections were classy, yet with an easy style, they veered either toward formalwear with a sense of ease, or sportswear with a sense of elegance and luxury, which is what the Made in Italy production is all about.”Trendspotting: “Color, which showed an en-ergetic attitude, a positive response to the moment. New proportions for suits, with short double-breasted jackets and short, tight pants or Bermuda shorts.”

kevin harTer, vice PreSidenT of faShion for Men’S and hoMe for blooMingdale’SSound off: “The Milan collections will really resonate with our Bloomingdale’s customers.”Trendspotting: “It was all about beauti-ful color palettes and textured fabrics. Garment dying, sun-faded patterns and in-digo treatments all played a role. We see a bigger push on some trends that we are cur-rently having success with: double-breasted blazers, printed batik wovens and linen-cot-ton blends all played a role. Also the infu-sion of active-inspired looks in many collec-tions will be a big opportunity for us.”

darren Skey, head of Men’S Wear, harvey nicholSSound off: “Usually, when you see Milan and then you see Paris, Paris is the more exciting of the two. But there was some really good theater this year in Milan — especially from Dolce & Gabbana and Versace. Burberry Prorsum has been quite sedate over the past seasons, but we saw some really great colors coming down the catwalk, as well as

lots of strong metallic. Neil Barrett was re-ally strong, especially the varsity jackets, cool baseball tops and an off-white tuxedo at the end. And we loved McQueen. It was absolutely beautiful — the best collection in the past two to three years. They have re-ally elevated it, and it’s one of the strongest brands at the store. We loved the embroidery and the dragonfly tuxedo.”Trendspotting: “Shorts on the catwalk for work and play and with tailored jackets. Blousons and bombers — we saw some beau-tiful blousons from Prorsum — and lots of cropped trousers. One trend is worrying for me — sandals and socks. I think it’s tongue in cheek, a play on the look. I think sandals on their own will work, though. Footwear on the catwalks was really strong this season.”

JaSon broderick, gMM of Men’S Wear and WaTcheS, harrodSSound off: “We thought it was a very strong season with great collections from Ermenegildo Zegna and Gucci. Both showed a more masculine man and more consumer-friendly collections. We loved Fendi and we thought McQueen was outstanding.”Trendspotting: “Minimalism was quite impor-tant, and we saw very clean looks from Jil Sander and Prada; pastels, neon, and san-dals to complement all the shorts.”

roSy biffi, oWner of biffi bouTique, MilanSound off: “Except for a few shows, I had the impression that the collections were a bit too fashion-forward for market taste. All the companies gave their best in terms of re-search and professional expertise, but some-times they failed to meet buyers’ needs.”Trendspotting: “Double-breasted jackets, slim fits, revisited classics. “

adaM kelly, buying Manager of Men’S deSigner, forMal and acceSSorieS, SelfridgeSSound off: “I was quite excited about Milan — it was a good week. Milan is kind of back. The fashion and trends of today suit Milan — in the sense that there is a lot of simplic-ity, and the print angle lends itself to brands like Gucci. It was about futuristic moderni-ty, simple in its aesthetic. Our budgets are not decreasing, and will increase where relevant.”Trendspotting: “Metallics — I wasn’t expect-ing them, and I don’t know where they came from. Constructed satin and silk jackets and trousers, and printed jackets, shirts and trousers. Modernity — the clothes were about now and about the future.”

{Continued from page MW1}

Gucci Jil SanderBurberry Prorsum

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Men’s Week WWD THURSDAY, JUNE 28, 2012 MW7

Cardin’s Paris Homecoming

Pierre Cardin tries to push the boundaries with his new collection.by JEAN E. PALMIERI

IT’S NOT EASY being number one — just ask Luke Donald.

The top-ranked professional golfer has traded the lead spot with Rory McIlroy a couple of times over the past three months and knows that retaining the top world ranking can be elusive.

“There is pressure,” the Englishman admitted during a per-sonal appearance at Ralph Lauren’s New York City flagship last week. “As number one, more is expected of you and there are more demands on your time. People expect you to per-form well — and I expect me to per-form well. But you can only control what you can control, put in the time and hopefully it pays off. It’s about managing expectations.”

Donald, who didn’t make the cut of the recent U.S. Open, was planning to take a couple of weeks off before defending his title at the upcoming Scottish Open at Castle Stuart next month followed by the British Open the following week. Then there’s the Bridgestone Invitational in Akron, Ohio, and the PGA Championship in South Carolina in August. “It’s a long run of events,” he said with a smile.

“I came off a disappointing week at the U.S. Open where I didn’t play well,” he admitted. “But I’ve still had a pretty solid year. I’ve won twice and it got me back to number one over Rory. So it’s been a good year, but there’s still a lot left and the chance to achieve more victories, even one of the majors.”

Despite his success — which included the top spot on the PGA Tour money list last year — Donald has never won a major, something McIlroy has managed to achieve.

Donald said that although the two are rivals, they’re “friendly off course. I don’t call him up to go out for dinner, but we’re very cordial. But we still want to beat each other. We’re fierce competitors and both work hard to get to the next level.”

Although McIlroy has been the biggest threat to Donald’s number-one ranking, he said that any num-ber of competitors are capable of moving to the top. “There really isn’t one guy who’s ahead of everyone else like Tiger [Woods] was at his peak,” he said. “The top 20 guys are all very close so it’s gratifying for me to stay on top for close to a year now.”

Donald was in New York to fete the debut of the first RLX golf shop and joined designer Ralph Lauren for cocktails at the Rhinelander Mansion to toast the opening. He also signed autographs for fans the fol-lowing morning. The appearance served to introduce a limited-edition Luke Donald RLX golf shirt created by Lauren to benefit The First Tee, a charity that pro-vides educational programs designed to build char-

acter and instill values into young people through the game of golf. All the net proceeds from the sale of the shirts benefitted the charity.

Donald said he got involved with the organization “a few years back” through his former sponsor, Royal Bank of Scotland. “I got a taste for it.” And today, he hosts an annual event in Chicago, his adopted home town, to raise funds for the local af-filiate of the group. “It was not doing well and could have gone under,” he said. “I’ve lived in Chicago for 15 years and thought I could have an impact and help resurrect it.”

He said that what attracted him to the First Tee is the chance to “help kids who don’t have the op-portunity to play.” He knows that he was fortunate to be able to join a golf club in the U.K. when he was just nine years old and that had a major impact on his life.

He also appreciates the opportunity to be dressed by Ralph Lauren for nearly a decade. “I signed with them in 2003, one year after I turned pro,” he said. “It’s been a great fit and allows me to surround myself with a premier brand. Ralph Lauren is an icon in the world of fashion.”

Donald said that although Ralph Lauren is American, his sensibility — and his ubiquitous polo logo — “has its roots in England.” In addition, by being an ambassador for the upper-end performance line RLX, Donald is able to indulge his “love of fashion and more European style. It’s got a slimmer cut and is more sporty,” he said. I’m just fortunate that they think I’m the right guy for RLX. I love the brand and all my com-petitors are jealous that I get to wear it. It makes me look good and when you look good, you play good.”

Donald Steps It Up for Ralph, First Tee

by JOELLE DIDERICH

PARIS — Pierre Cardin has a fellow innovator to thank for his return to the Paris men’s wear calendar this season.

Armand Hadida, artistic director of the Tranoï trade show and owner of the chain of L’Eclaireur concept stores, has invited the Space Age couturier to show on July 1 at the Palais de la Bourse during the fair.

Cardin said the collection was based on belted and sleeveless jackets, in line with his lifelong fascination with futuristic silhouettes.

“Given my age and my long career, I did not want to show just well-made, classical clothes,” the designer told WWD. “I’m interested in creating, in pushing the boundar-ies of fashion, in being ahead of my time, even if I get crit-icized for it. If people don’t like it, that’s not a problem.”

Since his first Cylinder men’s collection, shown on 250 French students in 1960, Cardin has defied the conventions of men’s wear, while simultaneously building an empire with licensed goods including classic suits, shirts and ties.

In his Paris store at 27 Avenue Marigny, conservative navy suits are displayed alongside a red vinyl bomber jacket sprouting black rubber tubes. Cardin, who turns 90 next month, is confident his avant-garde designs will be understood in time.

“Everything I did 20 or 30 years ago is selling now. You might say I won’t be around in 20 years, so it doesn’t really matter,” he added with a laugh.

The last time Cardin showed men’s designs in Paris was for his 60th anniversary retrospective in September 2010.

Hadida said the aim of the Tranoï show was to intro-duce the designer to a younger generation of buyers and journalists, adding that Cardin would also show his wom-en’s collection during the fall edition of the trade event, which runs from Sept. 28 to Oct. 2.

“There is nothing commercial about my approach,” Hadida said. “Pierre Cardin has so much to say. He is like a fashion bible — he’s completely impervious to age.”

Indeed, Cardin’s latest project is a folly that will likely dwarf his previous achievements. On Sept. 24, he is due to attend a ceremony laying the first stone of his Palais Lumière, or Light Palace, a 790-foot high tower to be built on 125 acres of reclaimed industrial land, owned by the designer, on the border of the Venice lagoon.

“I can hardly believe it myself, it’s so unexpected,” said Cardin, noting construction should be completed by 2015, in time for the Universal Exposition in Milan, which by then should be linked to Venice by a high-speed train.

“It will have 10 restaurants, four cinemas, 50 lifts, 2,000 parking spaces, 1,400 apartments and 300 hotel rooms, in addition to a helipad,” he said. “It’s a habit-able sculpture.”

Cardin is also planning a party in the fall at his Palais Bulles near Cannes, which is the subject of a coffee table book written by his right-hand man Jean-Pascal Hesse, scheduled to be published by Assouline in September.

Hadida, meanwhile, said he was in talks with an in-ternational hotel chain to take his Royal L’Eclaireur store concept worldwide. A cross between an art gallery, hotel suite and store, the original store opened a year ago at the Royal Monceau hotel in Paris.

“It’s the link between the heritage of the store and what stores will look like in the future,” said Hadida. “It’s also very complementary with our e-business sales.”

The retailer said he expected e-commerce to account for about 20 percent of total sales by the end of 2013, and was also looking for locations to open stand-alone L’Eclaireur stores in the U.S.PH

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Man of THE WEEK

The swimmer has taken Michael Phelps to task at this week’s Olympic trials and is expected to heat up the pool in London. But when it comes to his fashion choices, he’s drowning in bad decisions. He may have been going for a sophisticated “The Great Gatsby”-style look but with his beefy new physique, the white tuxedo jacket makes him look more like a Chippendales’ dancer. It’s sartorial suicide.

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Luke Donald in the RLX golf shop.

The shop offers a selection of

golf apparel and accessories.

His hair is obviously fried from the chlorine. A Kérastase leave-in hair mask would go

a long way to repair his pot-scrubber locks.

The bow tie is perfectly hand-tied — thank the fashion gods he didn’t go for a clip-on.

A hidden placket tuxedo shirt would have been more appropriate, but that’s the least of his problems.

He’s busting out of his jacket. Get a bigger size.

It looks like a clergyman’s stole. It’s a pity to let someone dress you who doesn’t know

what they’re doing. Tuck the scarf inside the jacket or leave it back at the room.

A black jacket would have been a lifesaver.

Unless he’s timing himself in the 400 individual medley, there is no need for this style of watch

at a formal event. If the shirt cuff were showing, it might cover it, but alas, no.

The pants fit him well and are not too flowy.

The shoes are so precious they’re annoying. If you’re desperate for tuxedo slippers, make sure they’re not embroidered.

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