A City in the Forest

7/30/2019 A City in the Forest

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Sarah Horsley

Advisor: Hugh Crawford

May 2, 2013

A City in the Forest:Atlantas History Through its Trees


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TondafullgrownAmericanElmistondburiedtreasure.

Thesehistorictreesusedtolineouravenuesandboulevardswithgracefullyarchinglimbsthatmadeatunnelforpeople,cars,andpowerlines.Peoplesurroundedthemselveswiththemintheirtownsandwerealsodrawntothegracesofthewildelm.AsDonaldPeattieputsit,Ifyouwanttoberecalledforsomethingthatyoudo,youwillbewelladvisedtodoitunderanElm.

25But

thiswasadifferentage.AblightofDutchElmDiseasesweptthecountryintheearlytwentiethcenturyafterthirtyyearsonlytwopercentoftheElmslininginnumerablestreetssurvived.Eventheyounger,unaffectedtreeswerechoppeddowntotrytostopthespread.Now,Elmtreesarecharactersoflegend,theirfountainofleavesandvase-likesilhouettesomethingyouexpecttobecarvedintoatabletorsungbyminstrels.However,thankfullytheirstoriesaremuchmorerealthanfolklore.

An Elm in Inman Park:

A Story of Restoration

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Therei sapart icular AmericanElmstillstandinginAtlanta.Itsnotthebiggestoroldest,butitisoneofthefew.ThesignicanceofthisElmisthatitlivesinaneighborhoodwherethecommunitysstoryparallelsitsown.ThisElmlivesinInmanPark,fabledasAtlantasrstsuburb.Driv-ingthroughInmanParkcansometimessetyoubackonehundredyears,whereyouare

surroundedbyVictorianre-vivalhomesandOlmstedstyleneighborhoodparks.ThisElmsstoryissignicantbecauseitisatreeconnectedwithourcountrysfounding,asInmanparkisconnectedtothebegin-ningsofAtlanta.DonaldPeat-tiealsofoundthatasurveyofallofthehistorictreesofourcountryshowsthatamongthemElmsoutnumbereachoftheseOaksnearlytwotoone...[O]nendsthatinalmostallcasesitisthetreethatmakessomemanorsomeeventremembered.

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Revolut ionarieswouldgatherunderanElminBostonknownastheLibertyTreeandplanwhatisnowafreecoun-try.

24Americawasoftenseenas

aplaceofescape,whichishowdeveloperJoelHurtenvisionedInmanPark.AfteradayinthebusycityyouwouldgetonatrolleyandrideouttoInmanpark,wherethelotswerelargeandtheatmospherepastoral.

What isnotableabouttheAmericanElmisitsarchitecture.Imaginethetreeslimbshavingbeenplacedintoavaseandal-lowedtospreadasifabouquetofowers.Inmanparkisknownforitsarchitectureaswell,withstylesfromVictorian,ColonialRevival,andQueenAnnestylehomesrepresented.Duringthedevelopmentoftheneigh-borhoodinthelate1800s,thesilhouetteofanelmtreewasjustasrecognizableandcom-monastheporticosandturretsofthehomessurroundingit.

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Wedontseethearchingsilhouetteoftheelmaroundmuchany-morebecauseofaharmfulfungusthatcametoNorthAmericafromEu-ropearound1930.Thefungusiscarriedbytheelmbarkbeetle,whichbur-rowsintotheelmsinnerbarktoreproduce.Whenthebeetlehasaccesstothispartofthetree,thefungusalsohasaccesstothexylem,whichcarriesthetreeswaterandnutrientsuptothebranchesandleaves.Thexylemisessentiallyapathwaythroughmostofthetree,sowhenthetreesensesthatithasbeeninfected,itwillplugitsxylemwithgumtopreventthespread.Theproblemisthatwhenthetreestopsthefungus,italsostopsowofnutrientsandwater.Whenthishappens,theleavesonthetopsoftreeshrivelandtheendsofthebranchesbegintoyellowanddie

off,withtherestofthetreefollowing.25

The Blight

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Buthear,Oyeswains,'tisatalemostprofane,Howallthetyrannicalpowers,Kings,CommonsandLords,areunitingamain,Tocutdownthisguardianofours;Fromtheeasttothewestblowthetrumpettoarms,Throughthelandletthesoundofitee,Letthefarandthenear,allunitewithacheer,IndefenceofourLibertyTree.

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Thetreesprotectionmechanismcausesittosacriceitself,muchlikewhattheAmericanRevolutionariesthatstoodunderelmsover200yearsagowerewillingtodo.ThomasPaine,afoundingfatherwroteaboutthistree,

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Hisattitudehasnotbeenlost.ManygroupshaveworkedtorestoretheElm,withsoilinjectiontreatments,pruningmethods,andmostsuccess-fully,producingresistantcultivars.ResistantAmer-icanElmsweresearchedfor,buthybridizationwithforeignvarietiesprovedtobemoresuccess-ful.OthertypesofElm,suchastheChineseand

SiberianaremoreresistanttoDutchElmDisease,sotheyarecrossbredwiththeAmericanElmtocreateamoreresistantcultivar.InmanParkfea-turesthePrincetonElmcultivarplantedalongtheBeltlinetrail.TheBeltlineisalsoahybridizedproj-ectinAtlanta.TheoldBeltlinerailwaythatcircledAtlantaiscurrentlybeingtransformedintoasetofwalkingandbikingtrails.Thisisalsothesiteofthedevelopmentofthecountryslargestarboretum,spanning22milesanddevelopedbyapartnershipwithTreesAtlanta,anonprotdevotedtoenhanc-ingandprotetingAtlantastreecanopy.

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TheareaHurtdecidedtodevelopasAt-lantasrstsuburbwasalargeplotoflandSouthofPoncedeLeonandNorthoftheRaillines.HedevelopedthislandinconjunctionwiththeElec-tricRaillineshiscompanybuiltalongEdgewoodAvenue,givingthisraillineafortieddestination.Itsatonaplateauwhereyoucouldseethecitytothewestandrollinghillstothewest.TheEastAt-lantaLandCompanyboughtthelandfromHurtsfamilythatlivedthereduringtheCivilWar.IntheCycloramapaintingoftheBattleofAtlanta,you

candistinguishAugustusHurtandTroupHurtshouses.AugustusHurtshousewasusedasSher-mansheadquartersduringthesiegeandstoodwheretheCarterCentercurrentlyisjustoffPoncedeLeonAvenue.TroupHurtshouseisatwostorybrickhousethatcanbeseeninanotherportionofthelargecircularmural.

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The First Suburb

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Developedin1970byaresident,thebutteryisthesymbolofInmanPark.Likethebuttery,theareatransformedfromanuglyaccumulationofoldhomestoamodelofahistoricneighborhoodaftertherevital-izationefforts.Embeddedwithinthismetaphorisanother;thewingsofthebutteryhavethepatternoftheJanusheadfromRomanmythology.Januswasthetwo-headedgodoftransi-tions,withoneheadfacingthepastandtheother,thefuture.InmanParklooksatitselfinthesameway-alwayspayinghom-agetothepastwhilemovingforwardthroughtime.

TheneighborhoodarboretumofInmanParkisdedi-catedtotheabundantoweringtrees.Theoweringthemepayshomagetotheideathattheneighborhoodhashadasecondbloomingwithitsrevitalization.

AcarriageblocksitsnexttoourElmtreeonEuclidAvenue.Theseblocksallowedladiestostepsafelyoutofcarriagesontothesidewalkandareareminderofthewealthandclassfromtheneighborhoodsbeginnings.


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Hurt,withnancialpartnerSamuelInmanforwhomtheneighborhoodisnamed,laidthegroundworkfortheprestigeoftheneighborhoodearly.Lotshadonehundredfootfrontageandwereoftentwohundredandthreehundredfeetdeep.Thersthousesthatwerebuilttherewererequiredtocostatleastthreethousanddollarsatthetime.Notablefamilies,suchastheCandlerandWoodrufffamilies,bothinvolvedinthesuccessofCocaCola,builthouseshere.

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JoelHurtandneighborhoodlandscapearchitectJosephForsythJohnsonarealmostentirelyresponsibleforthesceniclookoftheland,continuingmorethanacenturylater.Hurtwasahobbyhorticulturistwith15yearsofbotanicalknowledgewhenhebeganInmanPark.HurtsinterestinimportedplantsisreectedbythediverseplantscapeofInmanParktoday.Hewouldoftenbringsaplingsbackinhispocketsfromhuntingtrips.Mostno-tableishisinterestintheLiveOak,whichInmanParkwasonceknownfor.OnatriptotheOkefenokeeSwamp,HurtfellinlovewiththeendlessarmsoftheLiveOak.HetooksaplingsbacktohisnurseryinAtlantatoseeiftheycouldsurvivethechangeinclimate.Oncetheyproducedacorns,

provingtheirabilitytoreproduce,heplantedthemalloverInmanParkasthestreettrees.Unfortunately,theirsurvi-vorshipinthisclimatewasshortlivedandtheybegantodieinthe1930sand1940sandwerereplacedwithwateroaks,whichwasthemostpopularstreettreeofthetime.Thistreehowever,haslargebuttressesatitsrootarethathavesincedisruptedmanycurbsandsidewalks.

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A1891MagazinearticledescribesEdgewoodAvenue,whichwasthegatewaytotheneighborhood,[T]heeyesweepseastwardinanarrowlinetotheverybrowofthefairsuburbanqueen,InmanPark,alongthedoubletrackelectricrailway.Thewholeavenuefromendtoendhasbeenplantedinthechoicestshadetrees.Thesestreettreesweretherstinthecitytoundergothecurrentmethodsofpruningforpowerandphonelines.Insteadofchoppingtheentiretopoff,friendofHurtandManageroftheCityParksDepartment,NelsonCristintroducedtheconceptoftrimmingaVintothecentertoallowthelinestopassthrough.

10OurElmprobablyhasnotknownsuch

pruningforalongtime,sincethebranchesarchupover

theheightofthelinesfromanearlyage. OaksonElizabethStreet

Hurt as a Horticulturalist


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Hurt s fasc inat ionwi th importedplantsemergesintheshowpieceoftheneighborhood,SpringvalePark.Thisplotofland,designedbyFrederickLawOlmsteadofCentralParkfame,isahorticulturalistsdream,withaplantsfrommultiplecontinentssurroundingalake.Hurtsat-tentionwasfocusedonever-greensinordertosustainfoli-ageyearround.Hisbiographystates,JoelHurtintroducedtoandcultivatedincitizensofAtlantaaknowledgeandloveofevergreenanddeciduousplantswhichbeforewasalmostunknowntothem...HespentmuchtimestudyingplantsandimportedfromEngland,Europe,China,andJapan,theevergreenvarietieswhichhemostdesiredandwhichheconsideredwouldthrivebestinthisclimate.AwalkaroundSpringvaleParkto-dayrevealsvarietiesofhollyandcypress.

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Hurtevenp lantedaCoastalRedwoodintheneigh-borhoodintheyardofhisstill-standingHurtCottage,whichwastherebeforethedevelop-mentofthesurroundingneigh-borhood.TheAtlantaTreePreservationBoarddeclaredtheRedwoodacitychampionofitsspeciesin1976.Theoriginaltreefellmanyyearsagofromastorm,butthesproutsthat

regrewareanimpressivesizetoday.Overall,theneighborhoodsucceededasanaturalescapefromthecity.A1891Magazinearticlebeams,Theresultwastheplanperfectintherequire-mentsofbeautyandhealth,em-bracingavenues,curves,linesofviews,atenacrepark,grassandowerplants,like,andtheplantingofhundredsofshadetreesofalmosteveryknownpopularvariety,includingthefa-mousliveoak,green-leavedtheyearround.

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OurAmericanElmsitsinfrontofthehousethatwasresponsiblefortherestorationmovementofInmanPark.TheBeath-Dickeyhouse,athreestory1898Victorianhousethathadfallenintodisrepair,wasboughtin1969andrestoredbyinteriordesignerRobertGriggs.Heencouragedotherstodothesameandthemomentumbegantobuildtosavethishistoricneighborhood.

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A Reason for Restoration TheneighborhoodsurroundingourElmtreesufferedfromitsownformofblight,butinsteadofabeetleorafungusitsdeclineisduetochangingtechnology,policy,andinterests.First,lotsizeandstructurerestrictionsbegantolapsearound1902andtheremaininglandbe-gantollinwithsmallerbungalowsandapartmentbuildings.

Next,acombinationoftheresurfacingofmanyroadsforheaviercarusetheriseofcarownershipcausedrichfami-liestomovefartheroutfromthecitytogrowingareassuchasBuckheadandDruidHills,surpassingtheuseoftrolleystotraveloutfromthecity.AtthesametimetheVictorianarchitecturewentoutofstyleandmanyoftheoncereveredhousesweresubdividedintoapartments.Abookwrittenin1955describesInmanParkby,Thepassageofsixty-oddyears,thedevelopmentofDruidHillsasalargermoreexpensivesuburb,theencroachmentofcheaperhomes,andtheneglectandabuseofSpringvaleParkbythecitytowhomitwasgivenafteritsbeautication,haveallchangedtheInmanParkofnineteenhundred,withitscenterjeweloflandscapingandunusualandpicturesqueplanting,totheex-tentthatthislovelysuburbisnotevenrecognizablebythosewholivedtherehalfacenturyago.

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Thelandscapeoftheneighborhoodsawthesameneglectthatitsstructuresdid.Thesamenovelstates,LittleSpringvalePark,whichattractedvisitorsfromothercitiesandoffersofshrubsandtreesfromtheUS.DepartmentofAgriculture,islaidwasteandremainsabarrenandpatheticpictureofvandalism,oftheburninganddestructionofrareplantspecimens,andofcompleteneglectbytheCityParksDepartment.

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TheCityPlanningprogramatGeorgiaTechconstructeda

revitalizationplanin1971.Thehousefeaturedatthetopwasthersthometoberestoredintheneighborhood.

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Therestorationofthelandscapeisatapeaktoday.Theaffec-tionforthematurecanopyliningthestreetsperpetuatesthedesiretoshowcaseInmanParksoriginsasagardenneighborhood.Theneigh-borhoodarboretumdrawsattentiontothediversityoftreespecimens,botholdandyoung.

AwalkthroughInmanParkcanseemlikeawalkonehundred

yearsinthepast.TheintricaciesoftheQueenAnnearchitectureliningacurvedandmeticulouslyplannedlandscapecouldholdyoureyeforaneternity.Butwhenyoustepdownontothatcarriagestepandseeamassive,matureElmheavingtheconcretesidewalkupwithitsrootsyousuddenlyfeellikethegodJanuslookingthroughhistwoheads.Itisadualworld,wheretherearecenturyoldhousesandtreesthatseemtobefrozenintime,butarereallyteemingwithacommunitythatisdedicatedtousheringthisvignetteforwardintime.

The Trees Surrounding the

Peachtrees:

A Story of Urban Triumph

EachtreeinAtlantatellsastoryofurbantriumph.First,alltellthetriumphofAtlanta,asitwasrebuiltfromtheashesthatGeneralShermanleftbehindduringtheCivilWar.Second,theytellthechallengesofanurbanlife.Theygrowinenvironmentsofconcretewithfarlessthanidealconditionsofsunlight,water,andnutrients.Andlast,theytellthethreatofAtlantasthirstfordevelopmentandrapidexpansion.ThetriumphcomesinthefactthatAtlantahasthelargestcanopycoverofanymajorcityintheU.S.,atthirtysixpercent(ninepercentabovethenationalaverage).

5Buttotrulyunderstandthisachievementyoumustseebeyondthenumberstothehis-

torythathasshapedthegroundinwhichAtlantastreestakeroot.


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Thereisaparticulartreethatembodiesallofthesestoriesinthepuresightofit.AnEasternCot-tonwoodwithacircumferenceofovertwentyfeet,makingitthelargestofitsspeciesinthecity,standsonlyafewhundredfeetfromthebusiestveinofthecity,theDowntownconnector.Thistreefeelsthevi-brationsofhundredsofthousandsofcarseveryday,buthasstoodforaboutseventyyears.Itsmassivetrunkiscoveredbydeeplyssuredbarkthattwistsupwardlikeatornadotoacrownthathaslostafewarmsovertheyears.Thefactthatthisimpressivebutscarredgiantstillstandsillustratesthechallengesur-bantreesface,aswellasthewaysAtlantahasmadesuretheysurvivethosechallenges.

ThecottonwoodthrivinginAtlantaisananom-aly.Cottonwoodsrelyonlotsofwaterforsurvival,sotheyusuallygrownearthebanksofriversorinbot-tomlands.

8ThenearestmajorwatersourcetoAtlanta

istheChattahoochee,whichismilesaway.PerhapsitdrawswaterfromthespringsthatSpringStreetwasoncenamedfor,eventhoughthosewerebuiltoverlongbeforethetreewasplanted?Eventhoughthespeciesanditssizeareawonder,itissubjecttothesamesetofconditionsthatblanketallthetreesinthecity.

Torstunderstandthestateofthecanopy,wemustunderstandthestorybehindthelandunderneath.AtlantabeganasasmalltownnamedTerminusbe-causeitwastheterminatingpointfortherailroadsinthesoutheast.ThislandwastakenfromtheCreekIndianswhooriginallyoccupieditandgivenawayinfortyacrelotsthroughalotterysystem.TheroadsweredevelopedfromalreadyestablishedraillinesandNativeAmericanpathways,sowhentheselotsweredeveloped,theownersorientedtheirstreetstodiffer-

entpointsinsteadofacentralsystem,seentodayintriangularblocksandshiftingsetofroads.AllofthesepointsillustratethatAtlantawasnotaplannedcity.Startingfromjustthe400buildingsleftafterthesiegeofAtlanta,thecitydevelopedorganically.Withoutaplanforthestreets,thestreetscapeofAtlantahasnoconsistency.Builtinthelaterhalfofthe19thcentury,thestreetsweredesignedforstreetcarsandautomo-biles,notpedestrians.Aspeoplemovedaroundmorequickly,thelandscapingofthesidewalkswasnotapriority.Theonlypolicyguidingitwasthatsomethingneededtobeplantedoutfront,withnoconditionsforspecies.Developersusuallyjustplantedwhateverwasavailableandcheap.AsyoudrivedownPeachtreestreet,thestreettreeschangespecieseveryblockorso.

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Atlantas Beginnings

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Today,thereisamuchlargerfocusonthehardi-nessofthetreesplantedinurbanenvironmentsandaconsistentlooktocertainneighborhoods,butnounitedplanforthecity.However,theissuesofjurisdictionhaveonlyexpandedwithdifferentgroupshavingre-sponsibilitydependingonwhatkindofstreetitis.Addi-tionally,betweenconstrainedgrowingconditions,lack-ingwaterandnutrients,andconstruction,streettreeshaveanaveragelifespanofsevenyears,whilesub-urbantreesliveonaverageforthirtytwoyears.

27This

rapidturnoveralsocontributestotheinconsistencyofstreettreesinAtlanta.

Whileyouthcanbefoundliningthestreets,thematurecanopyismuchmorelikelytobefoundinneighborhoodsandinthemarginsofproperties,wherethelanddoesntseechangeasoften.MostchampiontreesofAtlantaarefoundbetweenMidtownandDeca-tur,wherethelandispartofsomeofAtlantasoldestandrichestneighborhoods.ItisalsowhereyouwillasignicantnumberofpartsandFernbankForest,oneofthefewareasofoldgrowthforestleftinGeorgiathatcontainsmanyofthecityschampiontrees.Asidefromtheisolatedareaofthisoldgrowthforest,thema-jorityofAtlantastreeshavebeenpurposefullyplantedandmanyhaventsurvivedtherapiddevelopmentofthecity.

OurEasternCottonwoodsitsonthepropertyoftheAcademyofMedicine,thelasthistoricbuildingyoullseeforawhileasyourdrivenorthonWestPeachtreestreetturnsintoacorridorofglasshighrises.JustlikethewhitepuffthatgivetheCottonwooditsname,thewhiteclas-sicarchitecturewillcatchyoureyeandmakeyouwonderwhatyoureseeing,especiallyintheheartofAtlanta.Thisbuildingtellsastoryofurbantriumphaswell,asithasgonethroughtwolargescalerenova-tionsandcurrentlysitsonsomeofthemostvaluablelandinAtlanta.ConsideringthesizeofourCottonwood,itwaslikelyplantedwhenthebuildingwasrstconstructedin1941.Infact,itcanbeseeninitsyouthina1949archivedaerialphotograph.TheAcademywasbuiltbyPhilipShutze,whograduatedinGeorgiaTechsrstclassofArchitecturestudentsin1912.

16Today,itisownedbyGeorgiaTech.Whilethetreeis

onlyacoupleoffeetfromthestreet,itiscertainlynotplantedasastreettreebecausetherearenoothertreesliningthepropertysedge,andcot-tonwoodisfarfromaspeciesnormallyconsideredforstreettrees.

The Academy of Medicine21


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TheAcademyofMedicinespurposewastohousetheMedicalAssociationofAtlanta,agroupofphysiciansthatunitedbeforetheCivilWartosharedevelopingpracticesandknowl-edgewitheachother.Thegroupusedthespaceforclasses,training,alibrary,andmeetingspace.However,overthenextthreedecadesitfellintodisrepairasmedicalsocietieslostrelevanceduetospecializationinthemedicalprofessionandincreasedaccessibilityofinforma-tionwithhospitallibrariesandmedicalconferences.TheAcademyofMedicinesurvivedthrougharestorationin1983andadditiontotheNationalRegisterofHistoricPlacesin1983.Likethecodesthatprotectourcottonwood,theAcademysplaceonthislistkeepsthesitefrombeingupdatedinanywaythatchallengesitshistoricalintegrity.ItwasgiventoGeorgiaTechin2008aftertheandrenovatedagaintoreectthebuildingweseetoday.

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TheAcademyofMedicinehasspecicarchitecturaldetails,muchlikeourcottonwoodhasdistinctroughbarkandwhitecottonypuffsofseeds.Thesedetailsarethankstothepri-maryarchitect,Shutze,andhisdedicationtotheNeoclassicstyle.Impressivearchesriseabovehallsdecoratedwithcolumnsandornamentalcarvings.TheseGreekandRomandetailshaveahistoricaltiewiththegenusofthecottonwood.ThePopulusgroupoftreesisnamedsobe-causetheywereplantedinpublicmeetingspacesinancientRome,whichisalsottingbe-causeourCottonwoodsitsinfrontofameetingplaceforphysicians.ThisgroupisdividedupintotheCottonwoods,theAspens,andtheBalsamPoplarsandcontainsatleast35differentspecies.Thetreeisalsoconnectedtothehistoryofbuildingthroughitsmedicinalproperties.TheCottonwoodisintheWillowfamily,fromwhichaspirinisderived.Oilsmadefromthebarkandseedshelpreduceinammationandrelievepain.

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16 16

Whilethiscottonwoodwasntplantedasastreettreeorinaresidentialarea,itisprotectedunderthesameordinancethatisresponsibleforprotectingthecanopyofAtlanta.Whilepublictreesareownedbythecityparksdepartmentandprivatetreesbythepropertyowners,allareprotectedbythetreeordinance.In1977thecityestablishedatreeordinanceaswellastheTreeConservationCommis-siontoprotectthecitystrees.Thisordinancehasdevelopedintooneofthestrictesttreepoliciesinthenation.Itrequiresanytreeremoved,eventhedis-easedordead,tobeapprovedbythecityarboristsandthedeveloperorpropertyownermustreplantoneofcomparablesizeorpayintoaTreeTrustFund

thatpaysforthecareofthecitystrees.33

Thepolicyhashelpedtomaintainahealthycanopyinthecity,buthasnotcurbedalotofthenetlossfromdevelopment.Between1972and1993,65percentofthelandoccupiedbytreesisnowdevel-oped.

22Theeffectsoftheincreaseofimpermeable

surfaceslikeasphaltandconcretearewidespread.Atlantaasacityhasbecomeaheatisland,wherethetemperatureisuptotwelvedegreeshigherthanthesurroundingforestedareas.Thewarmertemper-aturesincreasecoolingbillsandtrappollutioninthecity.Havingimpermeablesurfacesinsteadofnaturallandalsolowerswaterqualityandincreasesrun-offuptotenpercent.Eventuallyweguredoutthebenetsofurbantrees,butoftentimestheseben-etsareoverlookedinourclimateofrapidsprawl.Between1991and2001,metroAtlantalostftyeightacresofforestadayandsawanincreaseofimpervi-

oussurfaceatthirtytwoacresaday.22

Policy and Protection

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However,notallhopeislostforthecanopyofthecity.In1985,thenon-protorganizationTreesAt-lantaformedinordertomaintainthematuretreesandtoplantthenextgenerationoftreestoshadethecity.Sincethen,ithasplanted88,000treesanddevelopedmanyprogramstoenrichtheculturesurroundingtreesinthecity.Theyhavepartneredwithneighborhoodstocreatedarboretumscelebratingeachneighborhoodsparticularlandscape,aswellasengagedandeducatedtheresidentsofAtlantaonplantingtrees.

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Despitethedroughtsanddevelopmentthathave

characterizedAtlantaforthepastdecade,youcandrivedownoneofthePeachtreesandseeauniquegiantstickingatanangleoutofasmallpatchofgreen.Theoverwhelmingtrunk,ssuredbark,andamputatedlimbsrousesfeelings,rstawethenfaith,faiththatbetweenglasshighrisecondos,acottonwoodcansurviveboththethirstforariverandthecitysthirstfordevelopment.Thefeelingsoffaiththatcomefromthestrangenessofthissightarelikeasilentprayerofthankstothosewhobroughtatreeordinancetolife,spenttheirweekendplantinginalittlepatchofgreenspace,andbuiltacultureofloveandrespectoftheleafedgiantswhohaveseenagreaterhistoryofAtlantathanmanyofitsresidents.

ulip Poplar on Ponce: A Story o Divide

Tulip Poplar on Ponce:

A Story of Divide

PoncedeLeonAvenueisthehistoricallyrichveinto

thecity.Ittakesyoufromstreetslinedwithlargeoaksandoldmansionstoasuddenseaofconcreteandoverdevelopment.AssoonasyoupassacarvedwoodensignreadingWelcometoAtlantayourviewisoodedwithfastfoodrestaurants,busstops,andstorefrontsthatcoulduseafacelift.However,some-whereinthismassofbrickandasphaltandoverwhelminglynot-greenlandscaperisesaTulipPoplar.ATulipPoplarsomagnicentthatwhenitcomesintoyourviewitrivalstheheightandgrandeurofAtlantastallestbuilding,theBankofAmericaPlaza.ThistreestandsinfrontoftheGraceUnitedMethodistChurchandonlyabouttenfeetfromthesidewalk.Encounter-ingthistreemakesyoulookalittlecloseratyoursurroundingsandwonderWhatisthatdoinghere?Directlytothenorthisagentriedneighborhoodofthe1920sthatisadjacenttoPied-montPark.TothesouthisBoulevard,whichisalargelydiffer-entplace.Consideringtheageandlocationofthistree,itsurelyhasseentheareadevelopintwodistinctdirections.Butrstthistreehasknownanentirelydifferentstoryofdivide.


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Liriodendron tulipifera

Thetulippoplar,orLiriodendrontulipifera,isoneofonlyatwo-genusspecies.Thismeansthatthereareonlytwospeciesofthistree,unliketheoak,whichhas32speciesinGeorgiaalone.TheLiriodendronoriginallysplitfromthemag-noliafamilywhenthecontinentswerestillspreadingoutfromtheirbreakupfromPangea.EasternNorthAmerica,Europe,andAsiawereallconnected.Asthelandbrokeup,someLiriodendronwereleftinAsia,someinEurope,andsomein

NorthAmerica.TheLiriodendroninEuropewerewipedoutbythearrivalofglaciers,buttheonesinNorthAmericade-velopedintotheLiriodendrontulipiferawhiletheonesinAsiadevelopedintoLiriodendronchinense.

Becausetheywere

separatedandformedintotwodistinctspecies,withnoothersextantvarieties,theyareconsideredstrandedspecies.

8The

LiriodendrontulipiferaisnowanativespeciesintheEasternUnitedStates.ClearlydemonstratedbyourtulippoplaronPoncedeLeonAvenue,heightistheirstrongsuit.Theycanshootuptofortyfeetintheirrstfteenyears.OurPonceTulipPoplaris109feettall,whichmeansofifyousatatthetopofthistreeyouwouldbeabletoseealittleover12milesintothedistance.Ifaterminalbudcouldsee,thismeansitcouldseetotheChattahoocheeRivertothenorthortoStoneMountaintotheeast.ThisistosaythatthispoplarwithoutadoubthasseenAtlantadevelopintowhatweseetoday.

A Case of Mistaken Identity

hisTulipPoplarmustfeelathomeonPoncedeLeonbecauseoftheconfusioncausedbybothoftheirnames.PoncedeLeonstandsoutamongthestreetsinAtlantathatareeithernamedPeachtree,numbered,ordedicatedtonotableguresinAtlanta.TheclosestthatPoncedeLeoncametoAtlantaisSt.Au-gustine,Florida,andhecertainlywasnevermayorordonatedalotofmoney.Thenamehasbeenaconfusiontonatives,visitors,

andGPSs.Whatfewpeopleknowisthatthereisareasonbehindthename.BeforePoncewaspaved,builton,oreventraveled,arailroadconstructioncrewsetupcampnexttotwospringsinanarearecentlydestroyedbytheCivilWar.HavingworkedintheBeltlinerailroadintheheatforalongperiod,theywereriddledwithailments.Butafterafewweeksofdrinkingthespringwater,

theywerehealthyagain.Dr.Wilson,rstphysicianofthecity,

declaredthatthesespringshadmedicinalqualities,muchlikethefountainofyouththatJuanPoncedeLeonpursued.

14Historian

ofGraceUMC,onwhichourTulipPoplarstands,PatsyWoodsrecallsthattheSearsBuilding,whichwasbuiltontopofPoncedeLeonSpringshadawaterfountainthatwassupposedtobe

anincarnationofthehealingwatersthatwereoncethere.37

WhilethespringsarejustamemoryandtheclosestfountainofyouthyouwillndonPonceisaZestosmilkshake,thenamestuck.Asforthetulippoplar,itisnotatuliptree,norisitapoplar.Ontopofthatitalsoknownbyyellowpoplar,tuliptree,andddletree.Sowhatswiththename?It'sacombinationofmisconceptions.

Theyellow/greenowers,whichstartappearingaroundApril,arenotsomethingyouexpecttondonatree.Theyarelargebuttheshapeisvaguelysimilaritytotulipowers,butittheleavesthatcarryatulipsilhouette,eventhoughthetwospeciesareveryfarfrombeingrelated.Insidethelongstretchofthetrunkyou'llndstrongyellow/whitewoodwhichispopularinfurnituremak-

ing.JustoutsidethereachesoftheshadeofourPoncePoplarisanantiquefurniturestorewhoseownerhasdraggedquiteafewpiecesoftulippoplarfurnitureoutfrontondisplayandneverknownarelativewassoclose.TulipPoplarsmustenjoycitylife,becausethereisaspecimencalledtheQueensGiantthatistheoldestlivingthingintheNewYorkMetropolitanArea,being

between350and450yearsold.18


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The Beginnings of Ponce de Leon Avenue

Ourstoryofdivideisnotonlyinthetree'sDNA,butalsoinitssurroundings.ThetreesalongPonceareevidenceofthisdivide.Butthisstorystartsbeforeanyofthemwereeventhere.PoncedeLeonAvenuebeganasadirtpaththatledfromPeachtreeStreettothesprings.Oncethespringswerecommoditiesthetrolleyownersaimedtobuildparklandaroundthemtofurtherenticepeopletocome.Thelandinthisareawhichwasoncestrictlyfarmland,nowhadtrolleylinestravelingthrough.OneoftheselandownerswasRichardPeters.Heownedabout450acresintheareajusteastofwherePoncedeLeonAve.andPeachtreeStreetcross.PeterstriedtocreateaparkonhislandinthefootstepsofFrederickLawOlmsted,butinsteadfoundfailure.ThislandisnowownedbyGeorgiaTechandisknownasPetersPark.Petersnamedmanyofthenorth-southrunningstreetsaftertreesfromhisnativestate,towhichhealsopayshomagetowithPennAvenue.TheyalsoblendinwiththeparallelrunningPeachtreeStreet.OnhiseasternacreageisJuniper,Myrtle,Cypress,andonhiswestern,Cherry.HislandwassoondividedintolotsonwhichlargehouseswerebuiltbythosewhoplayedcrucialearlyrolesinthesuccessofAtlanta.TrolleylineswereextendeddownPonce,takingcityfolkontripsouttoInmanPark.PoncedeLeonPark,builtaroundthespringshadamanmadelakedesignbylandscapeartistJuliusHartman.Acrossthestreetwasanamusementparkwithaferriswheelandcasino,builtwherethecurrentPonce

CityMarketprojectistoday.Poncewasaplaceofprosperity.Fastforwardafewdecadesthroughtheturnofthecentury,thelakegetslledin,Ponceispaved(butthetrolleylinesremain),andhotelsandapartmentsarebuilt.DeveloperJoelHurtbuysthelandthatistobecomeDruidHillsafewmilesdownPonceandcreatesacountryneighborhoodwiththehelpofFrederickLawOlmsted.NowPoncereallyledsomewhereinsteadofbeingjustanavenueofattractions.

14

Oneofmostlastingattractionswasthebaseballeld.ItwasbuiltontopofthedrainedlakeinPoncedeLeonParkandopenedin1907.AminorleaguebaseballteamcalledtheAtlantaCrackersplayedthereuntil1965,alongwiththeBlackCrackers,whohadtoplaywithhand-me-downuniformsandonlyondaystheCrackerswereoutoftown.Thisstadiumisfamousforitssouthernmagnoliatree,whichisinthesamefamilyasourTulipPoplar,whichhadanineldviewofthesegregationofAmericaspastime.WhiletheblackshadtositintheworstseatswhentheAtlantaCrackersplayed,youcouldndamixedandexcitedcrowdthedaystheBlackCrackersplayed.Themagnoliathatsatincentereldwasspecialbecauseitwasconsideredinplay.TherearerumorsthatBabeRuthhitahomerunbecausehisballgotstuckinthefoliageofthetree.

28TheonlygreatermagnoliainAtlantawastheonethatguarded

thegravesoftheunknownconfederatedeadatOaklandcemetery.Thebaseballstadiumburneddown,wasrebuilt,thenwastorndownandreplacedwithashoppingcenter.However,thismagnoliastillstandsincentereldbutonthefringeofdevelopment.TheAtlantaTreePreservationCommissionhonoredits

historywithaplaqueinfront,butitneverthelessisagemofhistoryyoueitherknoworstumbleupon.


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A Great Fire

ThemomentumonPoncedeLeonAvenuecametoahaltoneafter-noonin1917whenareragedupwardfromEdgewoodAvenuetowardPonce,fueledbyshantyhousescoveredwithwoodenshingles.Therelasteduntilthelateevening,onlycrossingPonceneartheend.Infact,therestoppedabout30feetfromwherethisworkisbeingwritten.Ifmyhousewerestandingthen,itwouldhavebarelybeensaved.Therewasonlystoppedbythehous-esonPonceandNorthAvenuebeingdynamitedthensprayedwithwatertodeterthespread.Oncethechaoscleared,therewerenotreesleftinthemilestretch,juststumpsandchimneys.Tenthousandpeopleweredisplaced.Manyofthepeopleinthisareawerepoorblackswhocouldnotaffordtorebuild.

7

Denseapartmentbuildingsandlowincomehousingreplacedthecommunitythatoncestood,manystillpresentintodaysstreetscape.Themajorityofthetreescurrentlyintheareaareyoung,onlyplantedaspartofarevitalizationef-

forts.

Courtesy of Patsy Woods and Grace United Method-ist Church

TheHighlandChurch,whichburnedinthe1917re,wasthehomeoftheoriginalGraceUMCcongregation.

Courtesy of Patsy Woods and Grace United Methodist Church


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Twonewspaperclippingsshowingtheextentofthedamageofthe1917re.Noticetheforestofchimneysandburntstumps.

ThelandthatwaszonedinblackneighborhoodsafterEmancipationwassmallandofteninindustrialareas,whichdoesnotofferalotforurbantreegrowth.Theseneighborhoodformedonlandnearrailroads,borderingdowntown,inthecheaplandinvalleysandbottoms,andintheservantsrowbehindwhitehomes.(Bayor)Afterthe1917re,cityofcialssuggestedtobuilda150footparkwaycalledGrandBoulevardtoessentiallydividetheneighborhoodbetweenblacksandwhites.Thezoningpracticesusedhereweredeclaredunconstitutionalandthehighwayneverbuilt,butthisdidntstopthecityofcialseffortstocontrolneighborhoodsbyrace.ASNCCnewsreleasein1962statedInpastyears,cityofcialshaveattemptedtoblockNegroexpan-sionbyusingparks,cemeteries,andexpresswaysasarticialbufferzonesbetweenWhitesandNegros.(Bayor)Thistypeofzoningpracticescontinuedtoabsurdlevels,leadingtoAtlantahav-ingoneofthemostdividedcitiesbyrace.OncetheblackpopulationwasallowedtouseGrantPark,acoupleofmilessouthofPonce,(whichdidnthappenforaverylongtime),thecitycutdownmanyofthetreestoincreasepoliceandresidentvisibilitybecausetheysuspectedcrimewouldrise.(Bayor148)Someconcreteeffectsofthissegregationbycitydevelopmentisevidentrightintheshadeofourpoplar.ManystreetscrossingPoncechangenamewhentheyintersect

itbecausewhitesdidntwanttoliveonthesamestreetsasblacks.MorelandbecomesBriarcliff,BoulevardtoMonroe,andParkwaytoCharlesAllen,rightnexttoourTulipPoplar.Inotherpartsofthecity,ofcialsleftsectionsunpavedtocreateabufferzonebetweentheraces.Thegreenspacewasalargeindicationofthesedivisions.Nineyearsafterthere,whiteshad21play-groundswhileblacksonlyhad3.Whiteneighborhoodshad11,000acresofpublicgreenspaceandblacksonlyhad16(Bayor),whichwassegregatedlandforalongtime.

A Widening Gap

ThelandthatwaszonedinblackneighborhoodsafterEmancipationwassmallandofteninindustrialareas,whichdoesnotofferalotforurbantreegrowth.Theseneighborhoodsformedonlandnearrailroads,borderingdowntown,inthecheaplandinvalleysandbottoms,andintheservantsrowbehindwhitehomes.

7

Afterthe1917re,cityofcialssuggestedtobuilda150footparkwaycalledGrandBoulevardtoessentiallydividetheneighborhoodbetweenblacksandwhites.Thezoningpracticesusedhereweredeclaredunconstitutionalandthehighwayneverbuilt,butthisdidntstopthecityofcialseffortstocontrolneighborhoodsbyrace.ASNCCnewsreleasein1962statedInpastyears,cityofcialshaveattemptedtoblockNegroexpansionbyusingparks,cemeteries,andexpresswaysasarticialbufferzonesbetweenWhitesandNegros.

7Thistypeofzoningpracticescontinued

toabsurdlevels,leadingtoAtlantahavingoneofthemostdividedcitiesbyrace.OncetheblackpopulationwasallowedtouseGrantPark,acoupleofmilessouthofPonce,(whichdidnthappenforaverylongtime),thecitycutdownmanyofthetreestoincreasepoliceandresidentvisibilitybecausetheysuspectedcrimewouldrise.

7Someconcreteeffectsofthissegregationbycitydevelopmentisevidentright

intheshadeofourpoplar.ManystreetscrossingPoncechangenamewhentheyin-tersectitbecausewhitesdidntwanttoliveonthesamestreetsasblacks.MorelandbecomesBriarcliff,BoulevardtoMonroe,andParkwaytoCharlesAllen,rightnexttoourTulipPoplar.Inotherpartsofthecity,ofcialsleftsectionsunpavedtocreateabufferzonebetweentheraces.Thegreenspacewasalargeindicationofthesedivisions.Nineyearsafterthere,whiteshad21playgroundswhileblacksonlyhad3.Whiteneighborhoodshad11,000acresofpublicgreenspaceandblacksonlyhad16,whichwassegregatedlandforalongtime.

7Ifyoudrivethroughthisareanow,

mostoftheoldertreeshavegrowninthemarginsofpropertylinesandbackyards.Streettreeplantingandgreencorridorshaveonlyrecentlystartedtoappear.

Thiscomparisonshowsthattreesonceplantedtolandscapethisapartmentbuild-

ingwere,infact,removed.Manyofthebuildingsinthisareawerebuiltrightuptothestreetsedgetomaximizelanduse,

whichischaracteristicofthediscriminitoryzoningbycityofcialsduringthistime.

1


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DuringthistimeourTulipPoplarhasbeenshootingupward,passingthetwoandthreestoryapartmentbuildingssurroundingitandthenthesanctuaryitstandsinfrontof.Theexacttimeofplantingandageofourtulippoplarremainsamystery.Beforethereof1917,themansionofRichardM.CallawaystoodonthepropertyofthecurrentGraceUnitedMethodistChurch.Apictureshowsafewsaplingsliningthestreet,buttheylikelyburnedwhenthehousedidin1917.ThepicturebelowoftheGraceSanctuary,builtin1923,wastakeninthemidtolate1930sanddoesnotshowanysignofthetree,butanotherangleshowsbranchesreachingthesecondstory.DetermingtheageofaTulipPoplarcanbeespeciallydifcultbecauseoftheirearly,fastgrowth.Theyarecompetitveintheforest,shootingupwardtogetasmuchsunlightaspossibleasearlyaspossible.Infact,apictureofthechurchin1957showsthetulippoplaralittlelessthanitscurrentsize. Muchliketheboominggrowthoftheliriodendrontulipifera,GraceUMCisnotedforskyrocketingsize.From1948to1960,ReverendCharlesAllenwasresponsibleforthechurchsgrowthto4,000members,thelargestinGeorgiaandthelargestMethodistchurchinthecountry.Beforethestainedglasswindowswereputin,thesanctuarywouldopenitswindowssothecrowdsittingoutsideunderandaroundourtulippoplarcouldhearhimspeaktoo.In1957,heand80otherwhitemin-istersinAtlantapublishedtheMinistersManifesto,whichdenouncedsegregationinresponsetothestateofGeorgiaconsid-eringclosingitsschoolsratherthanallowingintegration.Today,ParkwayDriveturnintoCharlesAllenDrive,adjacenttothechurch,tohonorthereverend.

Inthetoprightcornerofthepictureontheright,therearebranchesappearingataboutthesecondstory.


37

Thispicture,takenin1957,showsthecrowdsthatReverendCharlesAllendrewtothechurch.



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Circa1963

Twoanglesofthetulippoplarinfullbloomabout1976.Itiseasilythetallestthingforblocks.

Courtesy of Patsy Woods

and Grace United MethodistChurch

ThegroundonwhichourTul ipPop-larstandsstillholdsevidenceofaracialdivide,butbeyondjusttheskincolorsofitsresidents,itisinarchitecture,zoning,roadways,andthetreescape.However,thisneighborhood,clearedbyarethenrebuiltonfoundationsofinequality,will

haveachancetogrowstrongandnarrowthedisparatiesaspeopleacknowledgethedecisionsthatplaguesitspast.Rightalongsidewewillndthosenewlyplantedtreesfollowingthesamegrowthyethope-fullyhavingstoriestotellthatillustrateadifferentpathofdevelopmentthantheonesourTulipPoplarhasseen.


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OneoftheoldestandmostcaredforrelicsofAtlantaistheOaklandCem-

etery.Itanditstreestellastoryofpersistence,forthememoryofthepeopleandthefoliageabovethemarewhatlivesoninthepresenceofthedead.Theland-scapingyoundinOaklandisfardifferentfromwhatlivesinachurchgraveyardorsuburbancemetery.Insteadofndingasolemnyardmarkedwithheadstonesandheavymist,youenterabeaminghorticulturalmuseumco-inhabitedbythoseofAtlantaspast.OaklandisanexampleofthegardencemeterymovementthataroseintheVictoriantimes,andnowalsoservesasadisplayofthehistoricalandspiritualvalueofcitytrees.TheplantlifehereisrootedinthelivesofAtlantansandsupportedliterallybyaninvestmentinthepast,astheHistoricOaklandFounda-tionupkeepstheland.

The Trees of

Oakland Cemetery:

A Story of Persistence

ThecloselyplacedandtraditionalmarkersoftheJewishburialsectionriselikeaforestinfrontoftheactualforestthatinhabits

thecemetery.

This1892mapdrawnbyAugustusKochdepictsOaklandcemeteryatitsfull88acres.AcrossBoulevardisthemilltownofCabbagetown,withthelargebrickcomplexbeingtheFultonBagandCottonMill.Noticethe

differenceinthegridlikestructureoftheoriginialplotsofOaklandalongthebottom,andthecurvingpathsintheupperportionthatarecharacteristicoftheruralgardencemeterymovementofVictoriantimes.TheeldintheeasternpartofthecemeteryisPottersField,wherethousandsofpoorwereburiedwithwoodencrossesasmark-ersthatquicklydeteriorated.

31

19


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OurstoryofpersistencebeginswhentheOaklandCemeterywasestablishedin1850asarestingplaceforAtlantasdead.TheoriginalsixacresispossiblytheonlylandinAtlantaunchangedsince1850whentherstplotswerelaidout.Then,thelandwasonthefringesoftownandnowitlieslessthanamilefromdowntown.ThisplacementwasinkeepingwiththevaluesofthegardencemeterymovementthatcombinedpublichealthconcernsandVictorianaestheticideals.Theplacementwasaresultofconcernsofwherethedeceasedwouldbeburiedingrowingcitieswithlimitedspace.Thesolutionwastoplacethemoutsideofthecity,wherediseaseandclosequarterswerentaslargeofcon-cerns.ThecountrysettingwasalsoinlinewithgrowingUnitarianbeliefsthatdeathwasareunionwithnature.

15Furthermore,themovementofgardencemeteriesbeganwitha

shiftfromthehighlystructuredandgeometricgardensfromtheBaroqueperiodtoamore

organicdesignofVictorianlandscapesthatincludedwindingpaths,pondsteemingwithlife,androllinglawns.

36TherstofthegardencemeteriesarePereLachaiseCemeteryof

ParisandMountAuburnCemeteryofBoston,whichbothspawnedfromnecessityofburialspaceanddesiretobuildabeautifulparkatthesametime.

3TherstsixacresofOakland

cemeteryaregrid-likeandhavethefeelofachurchyard,butasthecemeteryexpandedthenewburialgroundsemulatedcharacteristicsofthePereLachaiseandMountAuburnCemeteries.ThelatersectionsaddedtoOaklandhavepathwaysthatcurvealongnaturaltopographyofthelandinsteadofterracingitintosections.Oaklandwasalsothecitysrstdesignatedgreenspace.Thelushlandscapeinvitedfamiliestovisitthesegardensasaparkaswellasaresidenceforthecitysdead.

Justlikethearchitectureofthetime,aVictoriangardenischaracterizedbybeingornamental.Acombinationofthegrowingabilitytotravel,thetrendinghobbyofplantcol-lection,andhybridizationadvancementsleadtoplantdiversitybeingthefocusofmanyVictoriangardens.

36Theshowcasingofmanynewplantsinturnputsthefocusonviewing

oneplantatatimeinanornamentalfashion.Thegardencemeterywastheperfectfor-matfortheidealsofVictoriangardeningbecauseoftheneedforpathstomakeyourwayaroundthecemeteryandtheslowpaceinwhichtheyarewalked,whichallowsforaquietobservationofthelandscapeandreectiononlifeanddeath.

A Garden Cemetery

ThispostcarddepictstheVictoriangardensthatarecommononplotsinthecemetery.Sandcoversthelottobringatropicalsensetothegar-den,whichincludesabananatree.Asimilarscene

canbeseentodayontheplotofH.C.Johnson,whichfeaturesahibiscusplantandredbananaplant.

31

OaklandCemeterywastheplaceoftherstgreenhousebuiltinAtlanta.Thegreenhouse

heldthewarmerweatherplantsthatwerepopularduringVictoriantimesduringthewinter.Today,theremainsstillserveahorticulturalpurpose.

31


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Almost170yearslater,OaklandstillexempliesVictorianidealsonits88acres.Thepathsyoucanwalkseemendlessandaresurroundedbyplotsdeco-ratedfarmorethanjustasinglebloominfrontofatombstone.Manytimesthefamilyofthedeceasedarenolongeraround,sotheHistoricOaklandFoundationcaresformanyofthesites.Today,theplotsarelandscapedwiththeintegrityoftheVictorianstyleinmind.Andevenwhilesmallshrubsandowersseemliketheidealplantstodecorateagrave,Oaklandcurrentlyhasover1,400trees.ThecemeterywasoriginallyknownasCityCemetery,butchangednamestoOak-landin1872asareectionofthetreecover.

31Currently,oaksrepresentovera

thirdofitstrees.

Inagardencemetery,treesareplantedtoshadethepeoplewhocometothecemeterytoreectbytheirlovedonesorpicnicwiththeirfamily.ThetreesthatwereplantedattheburialofmanyofOaklandsresidentsarenowmature.ThesizeanddiversityofthetreecollectioninOaklandisimpressiveenoughforittobeadesignatedarboretumThehistoricalsignicanceofitstreesmirrorsthe

historyofthepeopleinterredaroundthem.

ThelifeofthetreesinOaklandisoftensorichthatitcandisturbdeadthathavebeenrestingfordecades.Treesthatwereplantedassaplingsnowtakeoverwholeplots.Rootscreepbetweenmarkersandtoppletombstones.Brancheshangovermonumentsandobscuretheidentitiesofthosebelow.However,inthisthesetreeshavegainedtheirownidentity.Notonlyaretheyknownbyplaqueswiththeirspeciesname,butalsoaslivingguardiansofthedead,risinghigherthananyangelstatueorobelisknearby.


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Oaklandsroleasaparkaswellasacemeteryhasstoodthetestoftime.Hereyoucanseeapres-entdaybikeridealongsideavintagemotorcycleandsidecar,bothhereforthesightsandrelaxation.


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Justasthegravestonesandmonumentaredeco-ratedwithsymbolismconcerninglife,death,andtheascenttoheaven,theplantlifearoundcemeterieshavemeaningbeyondagenusandspecies.TheVictoriantimesareheavywithnaturalsymbolism,whichcanbeseenduallyasimag-erycarvedintostonesandtheplantsthatlieinfrontofthem.Rosemaryisplantedasasymbolofremembrance,EnglishIvyfordelity,liliesforspiritualpurity,andpalmsforaspiritualtriumphoverdeath.

26AlsoprominentinOaklandisthedaffo-

dil,whichinadditiontosymbolizingdeaththathascometoosoon,tellsastoryofpersistence.

31Oaklandfeaturesmany

heirloomdaffodils,thatarecultivarsofthepastthatarentoftenseentoday.Despitebeingplantedonplotsmanyyearsago,thedaffodilsemergeeveryspringforanotherbloom.

However,oneofthelargestandmostcommonplantsofOaklandcarriesthemostsignicance,bothinthebiologyandhistoryofitsroots.TheMagnolia grandi-

ora,orSouthernMagnoliaisasymboloftheSouthaswellastheConfederateArmyduringthewarandhasaspecialmeaninginOaklandCemetery.AftertheCivilWar,theLadiesMemorialAssociationdecidedtoservethesoldiersofthewarwitharight-fulburial.TheCityofAtlanta,ownerofthecemetery,designatedasectionofthelandtoburialsof6,900soldiers,about3,000ofwhichareunidentied.RemaininglandwassoldtotwoJewishcongregations,whichfundedthehigheststructureinthepark,andatthetimethehighestinAtlanta,anobeliskmemorialthathonorstheunidentiedConfederatedead.

15Dogwoodtrees,whichsymbolizeatonement,linethepathtothis

memorial.ThesymbolismcomesfromthelegendthatthecrossonwhichJesuswascruciedwasmadefromthewoodofadogwoodtree.KeepingwithVictoriangarden

practices,thecemeterydevelopedagardentofeatureavarietyofconiferspecies,popularcemeterytreesbecauseoftheiryear-roundfoliageandvarietyofshapeandsize.Theysymbolizeresurrection,perhapsthroughthepersistingfoliageorcones

.31

Severallargesouthernmagnolias,rumoredtohavebeenplantedatthetimeofthesesoldiersburials,shadethenumerousgraves.Evenasanativeplantinthisarea,themagnoliaisusedasanornamentalevergreenbecauseitsdarkwaxyleavesandlargefragrantwhiteowers.Thestoryoftheseowersembodiesourthemeofpersistenceaswell.Muchlikethelandscapeofthecemetery,thebiologyofthemag-noliahasbeenunchangedthroughhistory.Fossilsshowthatthemagnoliaisasoldas60millionyears,whichmakesitoneoftheoldestextantplants.Themagnoliatreedevelopedevenbeforetheappearanceofbees,soitreliedonbeetlesforpollination.Thetreeevolvedtohavelarge,strongpetalsandawidebloomtoallowforthebee-tlestocrawlintotheowers.

The Southern Magnolias


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Oneparticularmagnoliastoodoutfromtherest.Itsbranchesspreadoversixtyfeet,shadingcountlessgravesandtheLionoftheConfederacystatue.ItwasrumoredtobethelargestinAtlantaandoneofthenestinGeorgia.Unfortu-nately,ittellsthestorythateverythingissubjecttotheforcesoflifeanddeath,alessonthatthesurroundingcemeteryteaches.Thetreefelltodiseasein1998andafuneralwasheldinitshonor.Todayamarkerhonorsthetreewiththeinscription:

To everthing there is a season, and a time to every puroseunder the heaven: A time to be born, and a time to die; a time

to plant, and a time to pluck up that which is planted.Ecclesiates 3:1-2.

Over 100 years old, origin unknown, but duty well done. Guard-ian of the Unknown Confederated Dead, sheltering arms for

Atlantas beloved Lion. Never to be forgotten, but living through

those left behind. December 3, 1998 15

OneofthemostdistinctneighborhoodsofAtlantasitsontheothersideofthewallfromOaklandCemetery.Cabbagetownisarestoredmilltownandliketheneighboringcemetery,ithasatightlygriddedlayoutwithmanysmallcottagespackedintothecondensedblocks.ThemilltownservedtheFultonBagandCottonMillonthenorthwestcorneroftheneighborhood.Themillopenedin1881byJacobElsas,whocurrentlyresidesinoneofOaklandsmausole-ums.LegendsaysthatthestainedglasswindowinthebackofthemausoleumwasinstalledsothatElsascouldlookoverhismillandthecommunityevenafterdeath.

15Hebuiltthecom-

munityfortheworkforceofthemill,whocamefrompoorcommunitiesinthesouthernAppa-lachainmountains.Muchlikemanymountaincommunities,themillworkersofCabbagetownremainedsomewhathomogenousandisolatedfromtherestofAtlanta.Itwasntuntilthemillclosedin1971thattherestofAtlantagotagoodlookdownthenarrowstreets.Theneigh-borhoodwasaddedtotheNationalRegisterofHistoricPlacesin1976,thesameyearasitsneighboringcemetery.However,thisdidntkeeptheneighborhoodfromfallingintodisrepairafterthemillclosing.Theneighborhoodwassavedafewyearslaterwithatrendofinner-citycommunityrevitalization.Thehouseswererestoredandthemillwasconvertedintothelargestloftapartmentprojectinthenation.Theneighborhoodisnowknownasacultureandartscen-ter,butdoespayhomagetoitspastwithitsarboretum,onethatfeaturestreesthatarenativetotheAppalachianmountains,addingtotheeccentricmixofcharacteristicsthatmakesuptheequallyeccentricallynamedCabbagetown.

Cabbagetown


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Somewherebetweenthecolumnsofaneo-classicmausoleumweshouldhaveheardCaesarswarning,BewaretheidesofMarch,forontheeve-ningofMarch14,2008atornadotraveledthroughOaklandCemetery.Ittoppledangelsandobelisksanddestroyedoveronehundredmaturetrees.Debrisandlitterfromthecitywasdepositedalloverthegrounds.Whilethismaynothavedisturbedthoseunderground,abovegroundwasaneyesore.However,withtheaidofcleanupvolunteersandrestorationefforts,Oaklandshowsonlyafewscarsfromtheincidenttoday.Brokenmonumentswererestored,markersuprighted,andwith

thehelpofTreesAtlanta,onehundredthirtynewtreeswereplantedtocarryonOaklandscanopythroughanewgenerationoftrees.

Persistence Through a Storm

13

1313

13 Withpersistencealsocomeschallenge.Therearethreegroupsthatoccupythecemetery:thedead,whichoccupyunderground,theliving,aboveground,andnature,whichspansthetwoworlds.Asthecemeterymovesforwardintime,respectmustbepaidtoeachofthesegroups.Whilethetreesshadethevisitorsandtheresidents,rootscaninterferewithwherecasketsareburied,shiftmarkers,anddisruptthewalkways.Mostcommon,theun-controllablegrowthofthetrunkcandamagethemanyretainingwallsthatseparatedplotsandturnedahillyplotoflandintonavigableterraces.How-ever,thetreesarealargepartofwhatthecemeteryisknownfor.Acaddy-whompustombstoneandundulatingwalkwayareallpartoftheexperience.Seeingarootemergefromthebrickpathinfrontofyouisjustareminderthateventhemostpersistentstoneissubjecttothesameforcesoflifethatmakeatreegrow,apersondie,andturnaoncescorchedpieceoflandturnintoathrivingcity.


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A City in the Forest