8 geared up 32 39 Cy AdventureClist · 10/11/2011 · 10/112:011contents gold silVer bronZe titanium urban bicycle outfitters esri 3g mobility hike & bike italy ... rear-view bike

GO THE DISTANCE. OCTObEr/NOvEmbEr 2011 www.ADvENTurECyClING.OrG $4.95

Adventure

CyClistwaypoints 8 geared up 32 open road gallery 39

plus:

Follow robert e. lee by bike

For the Family: trailer roundup wake up call For willie weir

glorious mAine:

Ride the Coast

A DV E N T U R E C Y C L I S T O C TO B E R / N OV E M B E R 2 0 1 1 A DV E N T U R E C Y C L I N G. O R G2 A DV E N T U R E C Y C L I S T O C TO B E R / N OV E M B E R 2 0 1 1 A DV E N T U R E C Y C L I N G. O R G 3

Adventure

CyClistis published nine times each year by the Adventure Cycling Association, a nonprofit service organization for recreational bicyclists. Individual membership costs $40 yearly to U.S. addresses and includes a subscrip-tion to Adventure Cyclist and dis-counts on Adventure Cycling maps. The entire contents of Adventure Cyclist are copyrighted by Adventure Cyclist and may not be reproduced in whole or in part without written permission from Adventure Cyclist. All rights reserved.

our CoverA cyclist rides by a stone soldier in Gettysburg National Military Park. Photo by Dennis Coello.

(left) Riding through Harpers Ferry National Historic Park.

missionThe mission of Adventure Cycling Association is to inspire people of all ages to travel by bicycle. We help cyclists explore the landscapes and history of America for fitness, fun, and self-discovery.

CAmPAignsOur strategic plan includes three major campaigns: Creating Bike Routes for America Getting Americans Bicycling Supporting Bicycling Communities

How to reach usTo join, change your address, or ask questions about membership, visit us online at www.adventurecycling.org or call (800) 755-2453 or (406) 721-1776

email: [email protected]

Subscription Address:Adventure Cycling Association P.O. Box 8308Missoula, MT 59807

Headquarters:Adventure Cycling Association 150 E. Pine St.Missoula, MT 59802

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04 LETTER from the EDITOR

05 LETTERS from the READERS

06 LETTER from the DIRECTOR

C o l u m n s

26 TRAVELS WITH WILLIE / Willie Weir Not everyone you meet has good intentions

d e PA r t m e n t s

07 COMPANIONS WANTED

08 WAYPOINTS

32 GEARED UP

35 MARkETPLACE/CLASSIFIEDS

39 OPEN ROAD GALLERY

10 MAINE DOWNBOUND AND EAST by Chuck Haney It’s one of the great states of the American Northeast, and it has plenty to offer cyclists.

18 RIDING LEE’S RETREAT by Dennis Coello Hop on a bicycle and follow along. You just might learn something you didn’t know about America‘s often terrible and turbulent past.

28 HONEY, CAN WE STILL GO BIkE TOURING? by Nathan Ward Looking for a trailer to pull the kids along on your adventures? Look no further.

October/November 2011 · Volume 38 Number 8 · www.adventurecycling.org

10/11:2011 contents

gold

silVer bronZe

titanium

urban bicycle outfittersesri

3g mobilityhike & bike italy

SHARE THE JOY GET A CHANCE TO WIN

Spread the joy of cycling and get a chance to win cool prizes

n For every cyclist you sign up through a gift membership or who joins through your referral, you score one entry to win a Novara Verita (rei.com/ product/807242) valued at over $1,100. The winner will be drawn from all eligible members in January of 2012.

n Recruit the most new members in 2011, and you’ll win a $500 Adventure Cycling shopping spree.

n Each month we’ll draw a mini-prize winner who will receive gifts from companies like Old Man Mountain, Cascade Designs, Showers Pass,

and others.

n The more new members you sign up, the more chances you have to win!

Adventure Cycling Association adventurecycling.org/joy

Adventure Cycling Corporate MembersAdventure Cycling’s business partners play a significant role in the success of our nonprofit orga-nization. Our Corporate Membership Program is designed to spotlight these key supporters. Corporate Members are companies that believe in what we do and wish to provide additional assistance through a

higher level of support. These corporate membership funds go toward special projects and the creation of new programs. To learn more about how your busi-ness can become a corporate supporter of Adventure Cycling, go to www.adventurecycling.org/corporate or call (800) 755-2453.


mirror man not first?I became involved with Adventure Cycling in 2004 when I signed up for the Louis & Clark Tour of Montana. This is the way I chose to celebrate my 80th birthday. Since then, I have continued to keep in touch with the Missoula staff and read Adventure Cyclist regularly.

I was pleased to read the April 2011 article “The Mirror Man of Gambier” by Greg Siple. I find The Mirror Man very interesting with all the bicycle acces-sories he has developed, including the rear-view bike mirror for your eyeglasses. However, I’m going to say the original developer of the eyeglass mirror was Dr. Eugene Gaston, MD. Dr. Gaston, now deceased, was an outstanding surgeon from Framingham, Massachusetts, and past president of the Northeast Bicycle Club. Dr. Gaston also wrote the “Ask the Doctor” editorial section of Bicycling mag-azine for a number of years. I rode with The Doctor quite often and considered him one of my dearest friends.

Not only was he a distinguished sur-geon but he was also a good machinist. He had a full machine shop in his base-ment where he constructed and devel-oped many innovative devices. His first rear-view–glasses mirror prototype was a dental mirror that he assembled with little springs that would clip onto a rider’s glasses. This was a wonderful adaptation and every rider who saw it wanted one.

He modified his mirror with a small piece of aluminum and used epoxy to adhere a small square mirror piece. There was a small stem that was bent to it and would attach to the temple on your glass-es. This device gave the rider a good view as to what was behind him.

I hope this brings Chuck Harris’s development up to date and I’m sure Dr. Gaston would enjoy someone carrying on his work. He loved bicycling and cyclists alike.

I want to thank the Adventure Cycling

Association for opening a new world for me. I tell everyone about my Louis & Clarke ride and encourage them to also take a tour with Adventure Cycling. I’m now 87 years old and still riding as often as I can.

Eugene (Gene) CummingsWest Dennis, Massachusetts

trying new thingsThe August/September 2011 article by Willie Weir “Uncomfortable” reminded me of my first bicycle tour. I had never ridden more than 35 flat miles on my Sears three-speed. I read an article about cycling the Natchez Trace so I bought a Bianchi Advantage at a going-out-of-business sale from a local bike shop. I did one ride around the Vicksburg battlefield in order to get in shape for the ride which would average 65 miles a day for 13 days, with camping each night. The tour was led by Adventure Cycling in the early 1980s. We had a SAG wagon for our tents and gear, and 15 of us started out, stopping the first night in a field behind Bubba’s Bar B Que. There was one toilet and no showers for all of us. Yes, this was a little out of my comfort zone as the only camping I had done was in Fort Dix, New Jersey, when I was in the army. I sur-vived and have been touring ever since. The only change — I now ride a Tour Easy recumbent.

Francis CelinoMetairie, Louisiana

iceland wronged!I hope we haven’t read the last about cycling Iceland in Adventure Cyclist. Roy Wallack’s account (August/September issue, “Vikings & Lakers”), certainly would unfairly discourage most cyclists from considering Iceland as a touring des-tination. Our advice, not only should you consider it, you should put it at the very top of your bucket list. We completed a fully-loaded circumnavigation of Iceland

on the Ring Road in 10 glorious days in August and September of 2010. We are experienced cyclists, but not extreme ath-letes. We both are celebrating our 60th year. My wife, Sharon, is a grandma of three. We are simply open for whatever nature brings. We used the excellent ‘round island bus service to hop over a few less interesting stretches to complete the route in 10 days, nevertheless, we completed over 500 miles of the total 800-mile route on two wheels.

No doubt, Icelandic winds can be severe. Fortunately, we had them in our favor most of the time. Rains can be tor-rential but we had mostly clear skies. The scenery was indescribably spectacular. The roads were uncrowded and virtually deserted of cars and other cyclists. We camped every night, enjoying geysers, volcanoes, roadside glaciers, waterfalls and icebergs, quaint villages, colorful history, un-littered landscapes, and an endearing “can-do” attitude by every resident we encountered. Icelandic people boast the longest life expectancy in the world, thanks to their unspoiled envi-ronment and active lifestyles. Exploring Iceland on a bicycle is a top cycling expe-rience at the top of the world.

And I completed the entire route rid-ing in Shimano Sandals and riding shorts. Sure we encountered some extreme con-ditions, but a little hardship made the whole proposition a lot more sporting.

Craig SternagelLake Forest Park, Washington

Mirror, mirror, on the frame, out of the (comfort) zoneIceland is a bicycle-touring paradise

Letter from the Editor

interbike 2011The great American bike fest

evolved through the years, transforming from a standard insider event into a well-rounded gathering of bicycle-related interests. Yes, there are still all the bells and whistles of a trade show (literally bells and whistles), a mind-numbing array of products on display, and a ton of mundane but necessary business getting done, but it now feels more like a gathering where like-minded people get to meet and mingle face to face. And in a world where most business is done via email or text messaging, it’s a welcome opportunity. For instance, I’ve emailed and spoken on the phone with Patrick O’Grady but had not met him until Interbike. I emailed Patrick a while back to tell him how much I enjoyed his columns in Bicycle Retailer and Industry News and that led to him contributing a feature story about Adventure Cycling’s supported Southern Arizona Road tour (adventurecycling.org/tours) and a slew of road tests, with more to come. After wandering the show floor with him, I now know that our bike-review program is in good hands.

Interbike is also the only time I get to meet with John Schubert, Adventure Cyclist’s inveterate technical editor. John took a hiatus from his column “Cyclesense,” in 2011 and we’re all looking forward to the column returning in 2012.

Also in attendance were Adventure Cycling’s Executive Director Jim

Sayer, Sales and Marketing Director Teri Maloughney (who has also attended too many Interbikes to count), Adventure Cyclist’s ad rep Rick Bruner, and Josh Tack, a man who wears many hats for the organization, including blogger extraordinaire.

We also had two first-time attendees Winona Bateman, Adventure Cycling’s Media Director, and Sarah Raz, who handles a variety of duties for our sales department and who also writes the words that accompany Greg Siple’s “Open Road Gallery.” Both Winona and Sarah are also instrumental in the success of Adventure Cycling’s blog (blog.adventurecycling.org).

Collectively, it’s quite a team. While many of us focus on product, Jim works with the other nonprofit cycling groups to increase our voice within the industry as well as on Capitol Hill and Winona seeks to expand our relationships with other media outlets to get the word out about how bike travel can change peoples’ lives for the better.

Adventure Cycling is involved in a multitude of excellent programs and it takes a dedicated collective of people to make it all work. So thanks to our 2011 Interbike entourage — a terrific example of teamwork for bike travel.

Michael DemeEditor, Adventure [email protected]

I recently returned from Interbike in Las Vegas. I think I’ve attended 16 of these indus-try gatherings but it could easily be 15 or 17,I’ve actually lost count. Regardless of the true number, I’ve been to enough of them to see how this massive trade show has

Adventure

CyClist

Your letters are welcome. Due to the volume of mail and email we receive, we cannot print every letter. We may edit letters for length and clarity. If you do not want your comments to be printed in Adventure Cyclist, please state so clearly. Please include your name and address with your correspondence. Email your comments, questions, or letters to [email protected] or mail to Editor, Adventure Cyclist, P.O. Box 8308, Missoula, MT 59807.

Letters from our Readers

October/November 2011volume 38 number 8

WWW.ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG

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d o n n a o ' n e a l w a l l y w e r n e r


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Companions Wanted

Providing partners for tours, domestic and abroad, since 1978

oxford to kenya 23-year-old guy looking for some good company for an ambitious tour. I’ve split the tour into three legs and plan on spending approximately three months on each leg: First leg: Oxford to Albania (France, Italy, Greece, Albania — Dalmation Coast); second leg: Turkey to Egypt (Turkey, Syria, Jordan, Israel); third leg: Egypt to kenya (Egypt, Ethiopia, kenya). I have kenyan contacts who run a small school in Jimba Gede that I hope to reach. If interested email [email protected].

delivering smiles I’m a cancer survivor and I’m preparing to take a trip around the world by bike, starting here in the U.S., representing the 28 million people currently living with cancer. I will be visiting cancer centers around the world, delivering smiles and inspiration to survivors everywhere. I’m doing this on a shoestring budget. If you are interested in joining me for all or part of this adventure, please email zenmas [email protected] and I can provide details.

australia 2012: June-december I’m a 24-year-old male and I want to cycle 14,000 kilometers over a period of six months in Australia. I have done two months for fun and it was so awe-some that it has turned into a bit of a dream to finish the ride from Darwin to Perth and on to Melbourne, Sydney, Brisbane, and Cairns. The more people the better, for safety and fun. I am on a budget so I estimate 4,000 AUS dollars for the whole trip ($20 a day). If interested email [email protected].

northern tier West to east. I’m a 51-year-old male looking for riding partner(s) to enjoy a moderately-paced, laid-back adventure in the summer of 2012. The thought is to average 65 to 75 miles per day with a rest day every

week. Mostly camping with an occasional hotel. Priorities are fun, stress-free cycling, and appre-ciating all we pass by. Most of the route will be Northern Tier, with a bit on the North Lakes, as I live in Michigan. Plans are not set in stone. Email [email protected] if you have any interest in this adventure.

early spring tour East to west in 2012. I will be traveling from Connecticut to Los Angeles, leav-ing March 21. So far I, will be going south to western South Carolina (to see my Dad) and then heading west. The first week of April I should be going west from South Carolina. Anyone rid-ing any part of this route drop me a line. I’m a 52-year-old male and I will be riding 70 to 90 miles a day. Email [email protected].

modified transamerica West to east in 2012. Male (age 65) looking for companions. Ideal group will be two to four people, self-contained, mostly camping, but flexible. The goal will be laid-back travel, but with a purpose (60 to 75 miles a day, depending on terrain, weather, and motivation). No drama, no bosses, no judgment — just fun, but with an objective. Start on the Northern Tier (Anacortes), cross the North Cascades to Whitefish, drop down to Missoula, pick up the TransAmerica Trail, and head east. Start in early June. If interested [email protected].

cross country, march 2012 Planning ride from Covina, California, to Charleston, South Carolina. Seeking co-riders part way or all the way. Initial route via google maps. Open to suggestions and Adventure Cycling Association guidance. If interested email [email protected].

the balkans Seasoned cycle tourist planning two- to three-week B&B trip in the former

Yugoslavia, during August/September of 2012. I’m seeking one sociable, energetic companion, age 36 or over. Will begin in Austria or Germany and ride thru Slovenia, Croatia, Bosnia, Serbia, and Montenegro. 500 to 700 miles, 45 per day at 10 to 12 MPH. Rolling hills to rugged coasts to mountains. Lover of the outdoors, historic sites, dramatic scenery, local cuisine and brews, and languages. DC area resident preferred. I’d like to meet first to get acquainted and do local rides together. If interested email [email protected].

great divide mountain bike route A Michigan couple, ages 52 and 46, are looking for another couple to ride the northern section of the Great Divide Mountain Bike Route from Banff, Canada, to southern Montana. We will follow a similar route as described in Michael McCoy’s book Cycling the Great Divide. We’re planning do this the summer of 2012. If interested email Dan or kellie at [email protected].

wilmington to richmond 65-year-old male riding from Wilmington, North Carolina, to Richmond, Virginia, late 2011. I’ve done the outer banks, so will not take that detour. Expect to ride a good distance each day, but it’s all about the journey, so flexible in how the trip is put together. I’m a happily married guy with two children who will be making his first longer ride. The goal is to learn about the path, meet people, and enjoy each moment. I want a Surly for Christmas! If interested [email protected].

south island of new Zealand I’m 25 years old and have recently graduated with an MS in Optical Science. I’m planning a cycling trip

new beginningsComing soon: a new look to our HQ, new tours and maps, and new progress nationally

Letter from the Director

Do you know that feeling when you’re just about to launch a new bike journey? When you’re surrounded by gear and you suddenly look up and feel that funny combination of calm, exhilaration, and anxiety? I had that exact feeling thisAugust as I prepared for a nine-day blast of a self-contained tour on our Lewis & Clark Trail (from Missoula to Astoria) with my 14-year-old daughter Samantha. It was a memorable trip that followed the Lochsa, Clearwater, and Columbia

Rivers to the Pacific — but what stayed with me most was the exhilaration of the start. It’s a sensation I’m feeling very much as we head into autumn — espe-cially when it comes to the expansion of our headquarters in downtown Missoula.

Expanding the mecca of bike travel: After 20 years in our charming old church building, we are ready to expand — to provide more space for map making, mag-azine publishing, and program work for bike travel. We are adding a new floor to the building’s west wing, creating a larger courtyard, and improving the building’s energy efficiency. We also hope to give the building exterior a more visible cycling theme. We will be talking with members over the coming months on ways you can support this exciting new addition to a special destination for bike travelers.

New maps and tours: Our cartography

crew is cranking. We’re finishing the sec-ond section of the Underground Railroad alternate route from Oberlin, Ohio, through Detroit and up to Ontario. We finished the first half of our research on Bicycle Route 66. Finally, we’re working with a great com-pany, Mapping Specialists, to convert our existing maps into Geographic Information System software, to help speed our map updates and improvements. On the tours front, we’re rolling out an awesome slate of 2012 trips, including new ones on the Outer Banks, Cape Cod, the Sierra Cascades, and Big Bend, Texas.

National progress: Finally, there’s posi-tive news on the national front. With our national cycling partners, it looks like we’re close to convincing the Federal Highway Administration to issue an improved tech-nical advisory on rumble strips that help (and at least don’t hinder) cyclists. We also helped secure an extension of crucial federal support for cycling that is helping to transform America into a more bike-friendly nation. There’s more detail on these efforts at blog.adventurecycling.org under “From the Executive Director.”

As with autumn, there’s change in the air. Whatever the new beginnings — maps, tours, expanded headquar-ters — your memberships, donations, and encouraging words are making all the difference. Thanks to you from your friends at Adventure Cycling.

Jim SayerExecutive [email protected]

We’re expanding our beloved headquarters to provide more bike travel services and support.

Above: Jim and Samantha at Cape Horn, above the Columbia River. Below, new space and a new look for the bike travel “mecca” of the United States.

continued on page 38


News you can use from the world of bicycle travel by Michael McCoy

WayPoints

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Atlantic Coast Route ImprovementsHello Rhode Island, good-bye busy roads

CAlling All stokersAdventure cyclist Jamie bianchini recently returned home from an epic eight-year, 80-country cycling expedi-tion called Peace Pedalers. He piloted a black Sheep tandem while leaving the rear seat open and invited total strangers to join the journey as his guest. He rode with over 1,000 people, and now he’s gearing up to share his stories with the world, starting with a self-produced 12-episode doc-umentary series on his two-year, 22-country expedition through the African continent.

“when I arrived in South Africa, I was scared,” reports Jamie. “I expected the worst because of all the negative media and hype about Africa.” but after a few months on the road, Jamie had experienced something totally contrary — rich culture, hospitable people, and exciting cycling adventures with local riders. It’s what he calls “The warm Heart of Africa.”

“I honestly didn’t know what it felt like to be truly inspired until I was in South Africa,” Jamie recalls. “but before I knew it, I had HD cameras, microphones, tripods, and lights, and I was pedaling a 300 pound production bike. I felt I just had to share the real Africa with the world.” Jamie’s enthusiasm attracted Tv legend les Stroud, host of Survivorman, who helped guide him in capturing over 350 hours of fabulous content.

Now, five years later, the hardest part of his dream is ahead of him — finding the time and money to craft the stories and edit the series. He just launched a campaign using kickstarter.com (direct link: http://kck.st/peace-africa) to take his dream to the cycling communities to ask for their support. you can pre-order DvD or bluray box sets, score cool cycling gear, and get involved at www.peaceped alers.org.

Meet Rachel and ArlenWelcome new Adventure Cycling staffers!

According to Adventure Cycling’s routes and mapping Department director Carla majernik, a number of substan-tial revisions have been made to the newly-mapped Atlantic Coast bicycle route:

Section 1: From massachusetts into Connecticut, the route was altered to go through rhode Island, one of the few states that until now contained not one of the Adventure Cycling route Network’s 40,699 miles.

Section 2: In Connecticut the route was changed to avoid busy u.S. 44, incorpo-rating parallel county roads instead. And, in New york,

new routing takes advantage of a portion of the paved Harlem valley rail Trail.

Section 4: leaving richmond, virginia, we modi-fied the route to go toward historic williamsburg; also, a ferry is now utilized to cross the James river.

Section 5: An entirely new route was mapped to reach

Charleston, South Carolina, from the northeast.

Section 6: between Hortense and Folkston, Georgia, we changed the route to take in some existing overnight accommodations. And between Folkston and Callahan, Florida, the newly modified route bypasses a busy highway previously used.

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Starting in August, graphic designer rachel Stevens became the newest addi-tion to the Adventure Cycling Publications Department. “After a very productive inter-

view period, we all felt rachel was the best fit,” said publica-tions director mike Deme. rachel moved to missoula from Jackson Hole, wyoming, where, according to her blog, her goal was to “find people, organizations, and companies

she loves and help them to express their ideas in the com-puter realm.”

Among those clients were Friends of Pathways and the Pole Pedal Paddle, Jackson’s annual rite-of-spring sporting event. An avid cyclist already familiar with Adventure Cycling (her boyfriend completed a cross-country bike trip, dur-ing which Greg Siple photo-graphed him), rachel says when she’s not in front of a computer screen, she likes to be in front of other fun things “like mountains, milk shakes, and music makers.”

Traveling even deeper into the west wing — you’ll know what we mean if you’ve visited our office — you’ll find Arlen Hall, who, also in August, began serving as our new Tours Department director. He moved to missoula from Connecticut to take the job.

“Arlen has an incredibly varied background,” said executive director Jim Sayer. “He has worked as a software developer and owned his own

software company. He has worked for larger corporations yet also had his own bike tour company and has run charity rides involving young people.”

Arlen has also led or staffed every style of tour we offer. This past spring, for instance, he led the Southern Tier van cross-country ride. when offered the job by Jim, Arlen’s response was that it “made my day, made my year — probably made my life!” what would you call some-

one who, in approximately six months’ time, races and wins the frigidly punishing Iditarod Trail Invitational in Alaska, becomes the first self-support-ed independent rider to finish the race Across America (rAAm), and scorches an indi-vidual time trial on the Great Divide mountain bike route?

Crazy? maybe. Persistent and fit? Definitely.

In tackling his “No Idle Tour,” Jay Petervary of victor, Idaho, was definitely not idling. At the same time, he was rais-ing funds for the willie Neal Environmental Awareness

Fund, encouraging people to bicycle more and drive less.

The fund’s namesake, willie Neal, was an extraordinary young man from Jackson Hole who was hit by a car and killed while on a roller-ski training session in maine in 2009. while still in high school — where as a Nordic skier he won eight wyoming state championships — willie launched his “No Idling” cam-paign, aimed at getting people to turn off their car engines more often.

This mission is a major reason Petervary, an estab-lished endurance rider who

won the Tour Divide in 2007, eschewed the rv and sup-port crew typically employed by rAAm riders (another reason was the extreme cost of it all) — even though it also meant he could not be an offi-cially recognized rAAm rider. regardless, he completed the 3,000-mile-ride in less than 13 days, en route sleeping in places like car dealer lots and behind 24-hour convenience stores. For sustenance, he says, he pounded a “healthy” quantity of cheeseburgers and milk shakes.

To learn more, visit noidle tour.org.

JAY PETERVARY’S NO IDLE TOUR“Stop Idling, start Pedaling.”

Jay takes on provisions at a convenience store in South Fork, Colorado.

riding solo in AfriCAI Never Intended to Be Brave: A Woman’s Bicycle Journey through Southern Africa is the tale of a mostly solo journey made by Adventure Cycling life member Heather Andersen in 2003–04.

Fresh from a Peace Corps stint in lesotho (it’s surrounded by the republic of South Africa), Heather realized that she wasn’t yet ready to return to the u.S. so she set out to fulfill a longtime dream of exploring southern Africa by bicycle. At first, she rode with a compan-ion whom she had literally just met; tensions quickly mounted, however, causing the two to go their separate ways. riding solo, she found the rewards abundant.

“This land, this region, has become my home,” she writes in closing.

This despite an attack and robbery that put an abrupt end to her bicycle trip. reflecting five years after the fact, she writes: “I recognized that one bad thing happened to me in three years, and that worse could have happened if I’d stayed in the States the whole time. If I could turn back time and not do this trip, know-ing how it ends, I wouldn’t. I wouldn’t give up having met all the people I met, seeing all the places I saw … I wouldn’t give up having followed my dream.”

I Never Intended to Be Brave ($14.95) is available through wind City Publishers, www.windycitypublishers.com. Arlen Hall

Rachel Stevens

RIDING THE PAVED SHORELINE OFMAINE

Maine Downbound and EastStory and photos by Chuck Haney


I read recently that Maine had been voted the second most bike-friendly state by the League of American Bicyclists, trailing only the state of Washington. That lofty accolade was the only added incentive I needed as I planned for a journey across the country to one of my favorite locations, the downeast region of the Maine coast. According to Down East magazine, “Down East” roughly describes the coastal section of the state from Penobscot Bay all the way to the Canadian border. When ships sailed from Boston to ports in Maine (which were to the east of Boston), the wind was at their backs, so they were sailing downwind, hence the term Down East.

After arriving in Bar Harbor and a quick visit to pick up my rental bike, I was soon pedaling as smooth pavement unfurled under my tires and I glided along with the one-way traffic on the loop road in Acadia National Park. Huge slabs of sparkling pink granite that buffer against the incessant

crashing waves of the Atlantic Ocean were to my left, and heavily forested hills of jack pine and maple trees blurred by as the miles ticked off, one by one, on the sunny Maine afternoon.

The circuit on the main road around

Acadia National Park is 27 miles in length, but I was having such a pleasant time that I wanted to add a few more miles to my day’s total, so I made an abrupt right-hand turn and began one of the most famed cycling ascents on the East Coast. I shifted down to lower gears and began powering up

Cadillac Mountain. Locals claim that the first rays of the sun to reach the U.S. touch the summit of the mountain each morning from spring to fall. As I gained altitude with each pedal stroke, I remembered my first visit as a 10-year-old during our fam-

ily vacation. Unfortunately, our vigil was wasted as a complete whiteout with cold fog and fierce winds made us quickly retreat that particular morning. The sun could have risen first in Topeka, kansas, for all we knew.

My second visit to the summit on my honeymoon wasn’t much different, except this time I had my bike with me and I braved the gloomy conditions just to boast that I had ridden to the top of Cadillac Mountain, the highest point on the Eastern Seaboard at 1,528 feet. I’ve been told many times by knowledgeable locals that Maine actually invented fog, and I became a devout believer. The third time, however, was the charm. Last year, during a visit devoted to a photography class, I did wit-ness those first rays of daylight along with a throng of other early-rising tourists who made the pilgrimage in the pre-dawn hour to reserve their favorite spots on the bald granite dome summit. On this ride, I got a much later start than needed for any sunrise. I was content with taking in the fabulous views of Frenchman Bay and its many islands along with the town of Bar Harbor below as I reached the higher sec-tions where the views opened up. It was a clear day, and the winds were calm. I could even see Mount katahdin, Maine’s highest mountain over 100 miles away, and I savored the experience, knowing far too well the other end of the weather spectrum that would leave me looking at only the stunted trees cloaked in an eerie white.

The coast of Maine has always been a fascinating getaway for travelers and a draw for wealthy tycoons seeking grand and secluded summer homes. Miles of rugged, scenic coastline dotted with historic light-houses warning sailors to keep a safe dis-tance are as iconic as eating freshly caught lobsters that only hours before were tra-

versing the bottom of a Maine bay. I can’t think of too many finer things after a good, hard ride than to sit down with a cold beverage and eat a lobster dinner, which is especially delectable for a Montanan. (Fresh seafood in Big Sky Country is only a myth!)

In the popular tourist town of Bar Harbor, I spent some time visiting with Joe Minutolo, who since 1978 has co-owned the Bar Harbor Bicycle Shop with his brother Al. One of the biggest cycling draws in town is the over 50 miles of impeccably

built carriage roads that tycoon John D. Rockefeller constructed from 1913 to 1940. A large fleet of rental bicycles at the shop testifies to their popularity (the carriage roads were covered in “Cycling Maine’s Acadia National Park” by Cindy Ross in the May 2007 issue, so I won’t describe their virtues again here. To read that story, visit adventurecycling.org/library). Bar Harbor is also the beginning or ending, depend-ing on the direction of travel, of Adventure Cycling Associations Northern Tier Route. According to Joe, eastbound riders should “leave a little bit of energy for the end of their tour” so they can experience the beauty of the loop road in Acadia National Park, but some riders simply want to be done with the trip upon reaching town.

According to Minutolo, another good option for road bikes is riding the island’s western portion to the small quaint village of Southwest Harbor. Once in Southwest Harbor, take Highway 102A down to visit the lighthouse in Bass Harbor, then travel north through tiny Bernard on Highway 102, travel to Indian Point Road to Highway 3 and Salisbury Cove, and finally take

nuts & bolts: maine

best times:may and June are a great time to cycle in the Down East region of maine. The crowds of July and August have yet to arrive and tem-peratures are pleasant. Tthe other great time to visit is the end of the September through mid-October when the hardwood trees, espe-cially maples, put on their annual dazzling display of reds and gold’s.

resources:There are excellent resources for cycling in maine at visitmaine.com/attractions/out door_recreation_sports_adventure. Explore main by bike is also available online at exploremaine.org/bike/downeast.

good read:Biking on Mount Desert Island by Audrey minutolo. The book is available at the bar Harbor bicycle Shop, barharborbike.com, (207) 288-3886.

General travel information: visitmaine.com.

bar harbor: barharborinfo.com, downeastacadia.com.

bike shops:l bar Harbor bicycle Shop, barharborbike.

com, (207) 288-3886.l Acadia bike and Canoe, (207) 288-5483.l Acadia bike, (207) 276-3344.

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a feast for the eyes. An abundance of colorful buoys is a common sight in Maine and often means lobster is on the menu.

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iconic sight. Lighthouses dot Maine’s crenulated coastline and warn mariners of trouble.

The scent of the ocean lingered in the air, and a slight breeze kept just the perfect temperature as we spun past the point.


Highway 233 back to Bar Harbor.I found out there are several different

ways out of the hustle and bustle of Bar Harbor via two wheels. One is the climb up West Street, which quickly gets you into the relative serenity of the national park. The other way is to carry your bike down to the pier and hop aboard a water taxi as I did with Phil Savignano of the Maine Office of Tourism. We stowed our road bikes in the back of a small boat with Wes, our seasoned captain, and headed across Frenchman Bay for a day of cycling another lesser-known section of Acadia National Park. Schoodic Peninsula is the only part of the park actually located on the mainland. In my vast cycling experi-ences, I have pedaled under headlamp light to cross a state line beneath thousands of feet of rock in a tunnel and passed through a herd of buffalo while mountain biking, but I have never loaded my bicycle into the back of a small boat before, so it was quite a novel experience as we pulled into Winter Harbor to begin our exploration of the sparsely populated peninsula.

Within a couple of miles, we re-entered Acadia National Park, which looks nothing like the Mount Desert Island version across the bay. Schoodic is flat terrain and mostly devoid of automobile traffic. We cruised along the empty flat road and heard the dinging of a bell buoy echoing in time with crashing waves from an incoming high tide against pink granite outcroppings. The scent of the ocean sea salt lingered in the air, and a slight breeze kept just the perfect temperature as we spun past the penin-sula’s point.

Soon we pedaled back out of the park and into one tiny fishing village after another — with names like Bunker Harbor, Birch Harbor, Prospect Harbor, Corea, and Winter Harbor — where we liter-ally rubbed elbows with working lobster-men on weathered docks, plying and bait-ing their squared traps for the next trip out. A highlight of my previous visit to Bunker Harbor was when a local lobster-man showed me a rare blue lobster that he had just caught. Multi-colored buoys adorned outbuildings along the side of the road, and blueberry barrens were just starting to turn color as the fruit ripened in the summer sun. We rode a figure-eight loop that was a feast for the eyes and also experienced sensory overload for the nose as the smell of fresh seafood enticed us to stop for a lunch break back in Winter Harbor. I noticed the church steeple here

was, fittingly enough, topped off with an ornamental wind vane shaped like a fish. As I ordered another meal containing lobster, this time a lobster roll sandwich, I flippantly fantasized if I could do an entire bike tour surviving on just lobster and blueberry pie (another Maine delicacy).

As Phil and I loaded our bikes back onto the small boat for the crossing of Frenchman Bay back to Bar Harbor, we rehashed our fabulous cycling outing on the quiet roads of Schoodic Peninsula and listened intently while Wes told sto-ries of the sea. About halfway across the bay, we heard a loud pop, and Captain Wes exclaimed “Oh no, oh no!” A cable supporting the steering wheel had just snapped, leaving us adrift without a rud-der. Our day had just become a bit more adventurous, especially when we drifted aimlessly toward a towering cruise ship that was docked and reloading passengers from a town visit. While Captain Wes was down in the hull attempting a repair, Phil told him that we were only about 100 yards away from the behemoth ship, and closing in. The land lover in me started to have an anxious moment or two, and I wished I were back on solid ground still pedaling

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paved splendor. Acadia National Park’s carriage roads make perfect cycling tracks.


my bike. Finally Captain Wes figured out that he could steer with the small auxiliary motor in the back of the boat if one of us bicycle riders could run the throttle up in the cabin. Thankfully, the solution worked as we gingerly skirted the cruise ship and limped back into Bar Harbor.

Mount Desert Island, where Bar Harbor and Acadia National Park are located, is the largest island off the coast of Maine. Even though it is heavily forested, the island got its desert name in 1604 from the French explorer Samuel de Champlain whose observations of the island’s barren mountain summits from a ship out at sea led him to call the island “Île des Monts Déserts,” or Island of the Bare Mountains. It has a year-round population of about 10,000 people, but over 2.5 million tourists visit the park each year, at times making for some crowded road conditions. I would suggest riding the park loop in the morning or late-afternoon hours to avoid the heaviest traffic.

Cycling along coastal Maine’s country roads, you come across numerous quaint New England villages and small towns where stately white church steeples thrust sharply towards heaven and stand above all other town buildings. Steam rises from

+PHOTO: COLIN MEAGHER

rockefeller’s legacy. Carriage tracks are a good example of American broken-stone roads.

boiling lobster pots at tiny diners, and weathered headstones at the edge of town signify that communities here are much older than where I hail from in the West. A stop at the local general store where Boston

Red Sox pennants proudly hang and con-versation with the locals reinforces the fact that Mainers sometimes forget the letter “R” is involved in the English language provides quintessential New England

Down East charm.Just north of the island is the city of

Ellsworth, where another exciting new cycling opportunity has just arrived in the area. The Down East Sunrise Trail, an 85-mile-long stretch of gravel located on a former railbed ends in the forest at Ayers Junction. It’s a multi-use trail so you’re likely to see an ATV or hikers along the route, but it’s not heavily used and the bal-last is smooth enough that a touring bicycle would have no trouble traversing the most-ly level pathway. As you cycle along the route, you’ll pass by rivers running with salmon, ponds topped with beaver lodges, bogs with carnivorous pitcher plants, and forests that are home to the occasional moose that may pop out on the trail.

After spending a week exploring down-bound and east in Maine while feasting on lobster and blueberry pie and riding some of the most spectacular vistas on the East Coast, it is easy to see why Maine is consid-ered such a bike-friendly state.

Chuck Haney is a freelance writer and photographer who lives in Whitefish, Montana. Chasing the golden light of evening and early mornings during Montana summers doesn’t allow him much sleep. More about Chuck can be found at chuckhaney.com.

Did you ever wonder where the next generation of cyclotourists will come from? One place they are grooming bicycle tourists of the future is Apogee Adventures. This small company is based out of Brunswick, Maine, and recently celebrated its 10th year in busi-ness. Apogee runs tours across North America, the Caribbean, and Europe for teenagers only, mostly 13 to 16 years old. Although they offer hiking courses, most of the trips involve self-supported cycle touring ranging from 11 days to a six-week, cross-country excursion. Each summer, Apogee hosts several hundred young riders who learn the art of pack-ing a loaded touring bike along with the intricacies of map reading, camp cook-ing, and the resilience required to pedal

loaded bikes up hilly terrain for days on end.

I’ve had the privilege over the last few years of accompanying some of these groups as I photograph part of their journey for the company. One of the cool things about their trips is that they spend their “rest” days doing com-munity service projects in the local area where they happen to be. This could be trail building, working with Boys and Girls Clubs, volunteering at nursing homes or the Salvation Army, or with local food banks and soup kitchens.

I would say the future of long-distance bike touring is in good hands if only a handful of these teens continue to pursue the activity as they gracefully age.

Apogee Tours, apogeeadventures.com, (877) 700-5046)

apogee adventures

RIDING LEE’S RETREATstory and photos by dennis coellogettysburg to the potomac — July 4-14, 1863


“I have got the trimbles”- A North Carolina soldier

scribbling a letter after the Gettysburg battle, explaining his poor handwriting to his wife

Anniversaries mean something. They narrow our focus. They stop the hurly burly of everyday life

long enough to make us reexamine the past year if it’s our birthday, our relationship if we’re attached, the value of a beloved friend or relative whose death has made a calendar date unforgettable.

Anniversaries of national events can mean something too. But there are so many of those that they must be of great magni-tude to touch us personally and to entice us to become involved.

Some of you etched the Lewis and Clark Bicentennial years permanently into your mental and emotional makeup by spend-ing days or months riding their trail. And now there is a more recent, and far more important, anniversary to put on your map — and under your tires — the Civil War’s sesquicentennial (150th annivarsary).

Don’t get the wrong idea. We commemo-rate, not celebrate, the anniversary of this unbelievable national bloodletting. That war cost 100 times the number of American lives lost in Vietnam, from a country in the 1860s

1/9 the size of the U.S. in the 1960s. Or, an easier way to appreciate the scale of slaugh-ter: the low end of most estimates of military deaths in the Civil War is 618,000, out of a population — North and South combined — of 30 million. A proportionate loss today would be six million Americans dead.

Add to the more than 50,000 civilians who were killed during those terrible four years (a half million today, proportion-ately), plus the hundreds of thousands of soldiers maimed in mind and body (and 1.5 million horses and mules). Just one example of the scale of the wounded — for

several years following the war, the major-ity of the state budget of Mississippi was spent for artificial limbs. No wonder our 19th-century forebears referred to “the butcher’s bill” of war.

A great lead-in to a fun time in the sad-dle, huh? Come commemorate the sesqui-centennial with a “Pedal the Pathos” ride! I know, it sounds macabre, as well as a real off-putting way to begin an article. But it is precisely these enormous losses that recre-ated and redefined Americans individually and transformed America into a new nation state. We would not be where we are geo-graphically had it not been for Lewis and Clark. But we would not be who we are (for better or worse) if we had not fought the Civil War. It deserves our understanding. And the nation that endured it 150 years ago deserves our respect.

No matter the horrific reason for the existence of our national battlefields and campaign trails, pedaling them is fun. The physical effort involved helps us handle the awful story behind the often lovely natural scenery. General Lee’s route of retreat away from Gettysburg led south out of Pennsylvania through Maryland to his escape across the Potomac River. He then took his army through splendid eastern

countryside of fat farmland, well-watered green valleys, and deciduous-forest-cov-ered mountains. While these mountains may not tower when compared to the Rockies, they are remarkably steep and winding, as you’ll appreciate when climb-ing them.

Riding any Civil War battlefield or cam-paign trail will make this national four-year anniversary more meaningful for you, but choosing what many historians con-sider one of the two turning-point Union victories (the other is Grant’s capture of Vicksburg, Mississippi, which was sur-

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towering reminders. A cyclist rolls past statues in Antietam National Battlefield, Maryland.

what year is this? Cyclists pass Civil War reenactors in Harpers Ferry National Historical Park, West Virginia.

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rendered on the very same July 4th that Lee began his retreat) should deepen the impression. One week, a couple hundred miles, or just the best bits of them seen from the saddle, and what might have seemed dry and distant will be ever alive inside you.

A final point for all those who have never ridden Civil War battlefields, for those who might wonder when hearing them derisively called “cannonball parks”: The nation dealt with its suffering in part by commemorating huge cemeteries for the slain. In the decades following, we set off scores of battlefields as hallowed ground. Over the next 50 years, indi-vidual states honored their veterans with so many statues, busts, and bas-reliefs (a whopping 1,328 monuments, markers, and memorials at Gettysburg, over 1,350 in view at Vicksburg) that today we pedal through veritable open-air art museums. These two battles and campaigns are stud-ied the world over for their military sci-ence, but even those who don’t know the difference between an abatis and an abacus will find plenty to keep the brain and eye entertained.

Everybody’s heard of Gettysburg, the

most murderous single battle (over 51,000 casualties) ever fought in North America. You’ll think everyone in the world knows about it if you go there on a sunny, cool weekend in spring or fall, when some of the three million annual visitors are overwhelming the attractive small town (population of 7,500) and enjoying the battlefield.

(The field was not so enjoyable in 1865, when an estimated six million pounds of flesh — men, horses, and mules — lay in the hot summer sun. Burials took forever, and residents reported that the stench was not gone until the first freeze in October.)

But who has heard and thought about Lee’s escape south to the Potomac River 40 crow-flight miles away? I surely hadn’t, until that day in autumn 15 years ago when on a solo, month-long ride I spied a small sign on the C&O Canal saying simply “Lee’s Army Crossed Here.” Then I promptly for-got it for a decade until three retreatistas wrote a remarkable history and guidebook titled One Continuous Fight: The Retreat from Gettysburg and the Pursuit of Lee’s Army of Northern Virginia, July 4-14, 1863.

What a gold mine of information. It begins where most books and movies on

Gettysburg end, immediately after that horrific battle as Lee attempts to save as much of his savaged army as possible for future fights and the North tries to destroy it. 20 battles are detailed, and you will pedal the mountain passes and town cen-ters where they occurred. The authors tell of times when Conestoga wagons filled with Confederate wounded were attacked by the citizens of towns who only two weeks before had endured the theft of their goods and the boasts of Southern soldiers as they marched north through those same towns “headed for Philadelphia!” Axes in hand, the merchants and farmers waited for a chance to leap from roadsides and build-ings and cut away the wooden spokes in the wheels of unguarded wagons moving slowly through the mud. In Hagerstown, Maryland, you can sit outside at Skyline Coffee and read of the charges and counter-charges by opposing cavalry units through the surrounding streets in a “saber-to-saber, boot-to-boot affair.” This makes for s-l-o-w cycling, but a wonderfully memo-rable bike tour.

The 40 pages in this book devoted to a “driving tour” (actually two routes, for Lee sent his wounded over one set of roads to

the Potomac, and his infantry over another — with cavalry units occasionally shielding both) can be photocopied and used as cue sheets. The detailed mileages and even GPS coordinates will keep you from getting lost amidst the many winding roads. Churches, taverns, and the occasional still-standing barn employed as a makeshift hospital in 1863 and are all noted. If always-on-the-actual-route accuracy is your preference, these pages can’t be topped. You will at times be on highways that I found too busy and shoulderless for pleasant pedaling, but few that wouldn’t be acceptable to most riders during non-rush-hour weekdays.

Personally, I’ve always found cue-sheet riding to be a real pain, no doubt in part because I’m always missing a turn while my mind is elsewhere. In addition, I discovered in the first half-day that I was overwhelmed by the combination of route-following and historical detail. Some of the no-turns-to-worry-about stretches were wonderful, especially those that led through the mountains. I could easily imag-ine exhausted men and tiring horses slog-ging along the muddy dirt roads, as sum-mer thunderstorms “boomed like cannon” (so wrote numerous soldiers in their letters and diaries) and drenched the 17-mile-long wagon train of more than 12,000 wounded Confederate troops. I found myself reflect-ing right past required turns.

Here’s what I think is a far better way to follow Lee’s retreat. Begin with two or three days to ride the Gettysburg battle-field, to get a sense of the placement of armies through the electronic maps in the new zillion-dollar Visitor Center (too swell by half), to stroll through town and to turn the pages of One Continuous Fight and The Gettysburg Nobody Knows in the Ragged Edge Coffee House (located on Chambersburg Road a block east of the downtown traffic circle; I suggest it for its location, down-home décor, low-volume music, and hearty black brews). Three days sounds like a whole lot of time for a single battlefield and a little burg, but the park’s suggested “driving route” of 24 miles is, remember, filled to the brim with statues and informational monuments.

Besides, you’ll want to add an extra 10 miles (round trip) to take in the East Cavalry Battlefield Site. It’s an important spot that I managed to miss my first three times to Gettysburg — until a Virginia bike friend asked if I knew that 22-year-old General George Custer (later of “Last Stand” notoriety) fought back Confederate

a common sight. Miles of wood fences and stone walls lace Antietam National Battlefield, much like they did during the Civil War.


a cyclist could choose to ride the wagon-train route to Williamsport, pedal the 10 miles of the C&O Canal trail (or paved side roads if wet) to Falling Waters, then cycle the roughly 50-mile-long infantry route, back to Gettysburg — closing the loop after approximately 125 miles.

But how could you bear to get so close to Harpers Ferry National Historic Park and fail to visit? There you can park your bike for the hours-long Maryland Heights hike high above the Potomac, where Harpers sits below you in a perfect wedge formed by the Shenandoah River on the far side. You’re only 30 miles distant when you’re at Falling Waters, and on your ride you can veer onto paved roads to reach yet another beautiful national military park, Antietam, where Lee was turned back from his first invasion of the North in September 1862. The road through that horrific battlefield (23,000 casualties) is only 8.5 miles long, but it’s hillier than Gettysburg, equally lovely, and just as sad. Don’t stay so late, as I did, that you end up trying to make it back to the C&O in the dark. I got turned around in the blackness and the rain and passed the night beneath a pavilion in some kind of local park. (When at Antietam, don’t miss the great little burg of Shepherdstown — oldest town in all of West Virginia — only four miles away.)

Another short jaunt from the C&O on pavement can take you to the kennedy Farm, from which John Brown launched his attack on the Harpers Ferry arsenal in 1859. Robert E. Lee, still in the U.S. Army at that time, was dispatched from Washington, DC, to capture Brown, and did so. Brown was tried in a courthouse that you can visit in Charles Town, West Virginia. It’s a busy eight-mile highway ride from Harpers, but I recall shoulder throughout and was mighty happy that I’d added the short out-and-back as I followed

the signs to the now private yard of a house a few blocks from the courthouse, where Brown was hung. You can park your bike at the fence and wonder if you are stand-ing where John Wilkes Booth stood on that early December morning in 1859 when he’d traveled here to watch the man he consid-ered a “traitor and terrorizer” swing.

Five short years and more than a million casualties later, Booth fired a ball into the

back of Abraham Lincoln’s head only 60 miles from this spot. You can ride the sweet C&O downstream to within two miles of Ford’s Theatre, having mademuich of the Civil War — and its bloody middle battle of Gettysburg — part of you forever.

Dennis Coello is a freelance writer and photogra-pher who expertly covers history from the saddle for Adventure Cyclist. You can find our more about him at denniscoello.com.

off their bicycles. A hike up Maryland Heights reveals a gorgeous view of the town of Harpers Ferry on the Potomac below.

nuts & bolts: riding civil war historywhen to ride: Summertime is green and lovely in these parts, but the combination of heat and humidity can be oppresive. Spring time is lovely but fall is gorgeous, and the C&O is usually drier in fall. warm(er) winter days offer uniquely quiet visits to the battlefields.

Maps: Do a web search for “lee’s retreat from Gettysburg” and you’ll find many. CivilwarTraveler.com is ter-ribly confusing (too many lines and detail!). The sim-pler maps provide an easier overview.

books: l One Continuous

Fight: The Retreat from Gettysburg and the Pursuit of Lee’s Army of Northern Virginia, July 4-14, 1863 by Eric J. witternberg, J. David Petruzzi, and michael F.

Nugent (Savas beatie) and The Gettysburg Nobody Knows, edited by G.S., boritt (Oxford university Press, uSA).

l For a wider view of the war, This Republic of Suffering: Death and the American Civil War, by Drew Gilpin Faust (knopf).

l And an excellent novel that’s light enough for a bike bag and perfect reading for this tour – The Killer Angels: A Novel of the Civil War, by michael Shaara (modern library). I think the 1993 movie “Gettysburg” (based on that book) was wonderful, and is surely something to see before your trip. If you’re driving in you can even listen to it, unabridged.

when to ride:The Civil war Century (civilwarcentury.com) is a fantastically fun way to visit Gettysburg — a one-day ride

offered by the baltimore bicycling Club each September. 1,600 fellow riders will keep your spirits up even through a killing ground. Choose between 25-, 50-, 75- and 100-mile routes (the last includ-ing Antietam and South mountain battlefields).

helpful information: The small size of Gettysburg and the huge number of visitors means that even campgrounds cost dearly and fill up quickly. Plan ahead. I was dying for a shower when reaching what I discovered was the full-up Gettysburg Campground on a busy Friday after-noon. No dice on buying a shower there either. but the kindly proprietor directed me to the nearby ywCA on Highway 116/Fairfield road, close — of course — to its junction with Confederate Avenue. It was clean and costs only three bucks.

cavalryman Jeb Stuart’s attack, which was timed to exploit the success expected from the famed Pickett’s Charge up the center of the Union line. You’ll be biking past — and surely stopping at — this so-called “High-Water Mark of the Confederacy,” Lee’s final attempt to punch through the long blue line. The South alone lost 5,000 troops in a single hour of that massive July 3rd attack. Yes, 10 miles will take you less than one hour to pedal. But you’ll spend several times that reading the plaques and getting a sense of that important piece of the battlefield.

My suggestion is that before you leave Gettysburg, or perhaps before you leave home for the battlefield, you use One Continuous Fight and other sources to choose the most historically interesting points (and other sites) that you wish to visit along Lee’s route. Then don’t worry with being on the actual trail to reach them. The freedom of pedaling the network

of secondary and farm roads in this region, whether on a series of out-and-back day rides or a week-long loop, is sweet.

For example, my 65-mile-long route of the wagon train of wounded heads out of Gettysburg on the old Chambersburg Pike (today’s very busy Chambersburg Road/US 30) toward the historic Cashtown and a great climb through steep wooded hills beyond. You won’t want to miss them. But by buying small-scale maps of the area, or printing those online, you can enjoy a series of quieter routes if US 30 is busy when you ride it. You’ll ride the wagon train route in an arc west and south ending at the small historic town of Williamsport, Maryland, on the Potomac and, most pleas-antly, also on the leafy, scenic C&O Canal towpath (which can handle thin tires when dry — but pedal thoughtfully).

General John D. Imboden, command-er of this enormous and perilous wagon train of woe, found a “raging, swollen

Potomac” grown wild by the days of thun-derstorms, impossible to be bridged until the waters calmed. The small town was the scene of pure chaos, crammed with almost 5,000 wagons of hungry, desperate, hurting troops. The battles fought in hold-ing off their Union pursuers, whether or not Lincoln was correct in chastising the Union commander (and Gettysburg vic-tor) General Meade for “allowing” Lee’s army ultimately to escape, are subjects too lengthy for this article. One Continuous Fight and scores of other books and articles will help you understand all you’ll see and the locals’ stories you’ll hear on your ride.

Lee’s infantry units withdrew from Gettysburg craftily, getting a head start on the bluecoats and fighting rearguard actions and some running battles on their way through Fairfield, up Monterey Pass (Custer again), into Hagerstown, and on to Falling Waters on the Potomac where they too had to wait for floodwaters to cease. So


but when the real world reaches out and grabs you, you’ll think twice.”

I had a response, but it didn’t come out. It wasn’t the appropriate time or place.

Come to think of it, I’ve told only a handful of people the story. Until now.

I was in the midst of a bike tour in a foreign country. Which country doesn’t matter.

I had pedaled out to a beach along the coast. There was one lonely hotel. There were only two cars in the parking lot. It was the off sea-son, but my budget didn’t include hotel stays. I was packing a tent.

A group of older men were seated at a round concrete table, drinking and play-ing cards. Some tourists showed up who had walked from a beach farther down the coast. They stayed for the sunset.

I scanned the area, wondering where I could camp. This area was too exposed. Everyone got up to leave. One of the old men offered to give the tourists a lift back to their hotel.

A younger man lingered after every-one had gone. He asked me where I was staying. I told him I needed to find a place to camp.

He offered to lead me to a spot.He walked, and I rolled my bike along

a path, which eventually ended, and I found myself dragging my bike through

the soft sand as we headed toward a small grove of palm trees.

It was far enough away from the hotel and secluded enough for camping.

Suddenly, I felt a firm grasp on my forearm. My bike fell over onto the sand. The look on the man’s face hit me like a lightning bolt. His eyes were wide, and the corner of his mouth twitched into a nervous smile that vanished into a scowl.

I am going to be raped.That thought. That phrase was as

foreign to me as the country I was in. In a matter of seconds, my mind went through denial, fear, … and acceptance.

This can’t be happening. How could I have been so ignorant? So stupid?

He was bigger and stronger than me. And he had a machete. I could feel his arousal and smell the alcohol on his breath as he pressed himself against me.

Now what? Think. Think.A jumble of panicked

thoughts swirled in my brain. Then a brief instant of clarity.

The hotel. Get closer to the hotel.

But how?I needed him to believe

that I wasn’t going to resist. I leaned forward and kissed him. My heart was pounding in my ears. What would he do now?

He looked confused, and his iron grip relaxed slightly.

I grabbed his hand and led him in the direction of the

hotel. I forced a smile.We walked a short distance. Now we

were within sight of the hotel. But sud-denly he gripped tight. I thought he’d break a bone in my hand. We weren’t going any farther.

Whatever was going to happen next, I just wanted to live through it. I just wanted it to be over. If I’d been a woman, all sorts of alarms would have sounded in my head before this moment. Sexual assault had never entered my con-sciousness. It wasn’t part of my world. Welcome to reality.

I heard a distant laugh. We both tensed, and I saw an open door at the hotel and two figures heading down the stairs.

The sound that came from me wasn’t human. It was a screaming howl.

Travels with Willie

tHe deCisionVigilence is a virtue when touring solo

by Willie Weir

I was at a large party with a whole bunch of people I didn’t know. In the small talk over beers and chips, the subject of travel came up. I mentioned some of the bicycle trips I’d taken.A guy standing next to me said, “I took a solo bike trip once. Some drunk guys in a car pulled up and threw beer bottles and threatened to kill me. It freaked me out. I’d never travel that way again. You can live in your bicycle fantasyland,

Gr

EG S

IPlE

I could see the two figures stop and look our way.

The man shoved me forward. My face hit the sand.

Then he ran.I got to my knees and looked toward

the figures in the parking lot.They walked in my direction, then

suddenly backtracked, got into a car, and drove away.

I ran and got my bike and dragged it though the sand and back onto the path.

“Just go to the reception and check into the hotel,” I thought.

But I was embarrassed and I didn’t know the language. And the panic that I had managed to ward off before welled up in me.

I rolled my bike under a bright light on the beach just outside the hotel. I could easily run into the lobby if he came back. I sat in the sand, gazed out at the ocean, and wept.

I had never felt so alone.This trip was over.

I stared out at the ocean. The waves were only visible as they broke toward the beach.

I sat there, shivering, hugging my knees to my chest, until the sun rose the next morning. And at some moment dur-ing those hours of tears and darkness, I made the decision to go on.

It wasn’t a rational decision made by comparing the pros and cons of ending my trip. It was a gut feeling as raw as the howl that came out of me.

Somehow, as the morning light brought the world back into view, I was no longer afraid.

Was it denial? I don’t think so.But for someone who grew up loved

and protected and sheltered from most of what is bad in this world — it was an awakening.

My decision could just as easily have been to head home. But I’m not sure I would have ever traveled again. I would have become just like the young man I met at the party. Scared of the unfamiliar.

Scared of life. Just plain scared.The bicycle is a unique travel vehicle.

You are exposed and vulnerable. I know that. I’ve lived that. But, because you are vulnerable, people are willing to be vulnerable with you — to open up and share their world.

Over the years, I’ve learned to be cau-tious instead of afraid. I’ve said it many times before, but it’s worth repeating: “Caution keeps you aware. Fear keeps you away.”

I’ve now traveled long and far enough to truly understand and experience the risks as well as the rewards.

And, from my perspective looking back over 30 years of bicycle travel, the rewards — the people, laughter, vistas, beauty, and adventure — have out-weighed the risks a hundredfold.

Adventure Cyclist columnist Willie Weir has been wild camping and traveling by bike for 30 years. He enjoys the benefits of being uncomfortable, but will admit to sometimes not heeding his own advice.

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or two decades, I pursued some of the silliest bike tours I could dream up. These included circling Mount

kenya on singletrack, crossing 18,000-foot Himalayan passes, riding the headhunters’ jungle trails of Borneo, and an unsuccessful attempt to ride to and down a 23,000-foot high volcano in South America.

After all that, I decided it was time to up the ante and take a serious trip. My wife and I had a child.

Suddenly, we were no longer knee deep in a Central American swamp, but deep in the mind-boggling tsunami of parenthood. We found ourselves planning nap schedules rather than bus schedules. Bike touring seemed like a remote fantasy.

Luckily, after a year, the haze cleared, and we knew we needed to get on the road again. Inspired by stories about touring families in Adventure Cyclist and wild online tales of couples with children riding around the world, we started learning how to tour with a child. Once a cyclist has tasted the sweetness of the open road, it’s a hard thing to give up.

Even though we’ve ridden the streets of Asia, where families of four can be seen riding a single bicycle, my wife and I chose trailers as the best option. I also wanted to look into the other child-seat options — the

bike seats that bolt on to the handlebars or the rear rack. I reasoned, if I were a child, I might like the view better from a high seat.

We quickly discovered that there are only a few trailers we’d actually trust to carry our precious little boy. We also learned that although the other options, like baby seats, might be fun for a child, they are best saved for a weekend spin down to the local farmer’s market.

The following trailers represent the best I found available in the U.S. Standard features on all these trailers include: five-point har-ness systems, safety flags, screen and rain fly covers, and reflectors. All fold up quick-ly and compactly for ease of transport.

Most important, these companies empha-size their high safety standards. Focusing on safety seemed obvious to me, but apparently in the U.S. no safety standards are required by law for child bicycle trailers. It’s simply up to each company to make trailers that meet or exceed standards established by the ASTM International, formerly known as the American Society for Testing and Materials. If a trailer does not meet or exceed ASTM standards, I would not use it.

Bicycle Trailers to Carry ChildrenA trailer is the best option when touring

with a child between the ages of one to six

years. This is not just because you can strap them in so they can’t escape and run away, but also because trailers have room for toys and books, provide a comfortable cocoon where kids can nap, and offer shelter from storms. Plus trailers can be wired with an iPod and speakers, just in case all other diversions fail.

These trailers come at a premium price that can initially be hard to swallow, but, with child trailers, you get what you pay for. Good child trailers have excellent resale value, and if you can’t afford a new model, search for a good used model online.

On a related note, child bike trailers have a maximum speed of 15 miles per hour, so the trailer and bike combination is also important. On slight downhills, not to men-tion the Rockies, it’s easy to go much faster than 15 MPH. In hilly areas, pair your child’s trailer with a touring bike equipped with disc brakes to keep the speed under control.

chariot cougar 1$605 with bike kitwww.chariotcarriers.com, (403) 640-08224.5 out of 5 StarsPoll the moms and dads at any play-

ground in America and you’ll find parents that love Canadian-owned Chariot trailers. Most of these people will never bike tour,

but they’re still sold on Chariot’s unique trailers and conversion kits, which are col-lectively known as the Child Transport System (CTS). Chariot sells its popular X-Country trailers as a chassis, and then you purchase conversion kits for different activi-ties. The bicycle-trailer kit is one of these conversions.

We tested the Cougar1 model that fits one child and weighs 22.5 pounds, with a total capacity of 75 pounds. One of the Cougar’s best features is that it’s small and sleek enough to minimize the trailer’s effect in a headwind or crosswind. The trailer includes side air vents to provide more airflow through the trailer on hot or rainy days.

Most important, Cougar models feature a suspension system that can be adjusted for your child’s weight as she grows. If you ride a mix of paved and dirt roads, the suspen-sion system effectively softens the ride for your child.

Of all the trailers I tested, this was my favorite, and I would not hesitate to rec-ommend it for a bike tour of any length. I chose it for my son’s first bike tour, a mul-tiday exploratoration through the wildlife areas and wetlands of central kansas.

Besides the bike trailer kit, you will also want the stroller conversion kit and the rain cover accessory. We also picked up the Chariot travel bag for flights.

Cougar1: Prosl Adjustable Suspension: smoother ride for

your childl Safety: Chariot meets ASTM and stringent

company standards

l Quality: Very well builtl Lightweight: Not the lightest trailer tested

but light enoughl Best Stroller Kit: Converts in seconds, and

stroller wheels store on trailer while bik-ing

l Specialization: Chariot Carriers only makes

child trailersl Conversion Kits: Quick, easy, and don’t

require tools — bike, ski, jog, strollCougar 1: Consl Rain Fly is Inadequate: For nasty weather,

you’ll need the rain fly accessory.l Little storage space: The only storage space

is a small external pocket.Other Chariot TrailersCougar2 ($690 with bike kit) — same as

Cougar1 but fits two childrenCabriolet ($425, including bike kit) —

Simpler, more economical option

burley d’lite$580 with bike kitwww.burley.com, (800) 311-52944 out of 5 StarsJust as popular with parents, Burley is

based in Eugene, Oregon, and offers sev-eral excellent child bike trailers, and the D’Lite is their most popular model.

We tested the D’Lite, which fits one or two children with room to spare, weighs 28 pounds, and has a capacity of 100 pounds. My wife liked this trailer best because even though the trailer is fairly large, it pulls smoothly and easily. Like the Cougar1, I would not hesitate to choose this trailer for a tour of any length.

The D’Lite features an internal roll cage, a suspension system based on elastomers, and plenty of storage behind the seat. Instead of an external storage pocket like you’ll find on the Chariot Cougar1, the D’Lite’s storage area is integrated into the trailer body, more secure and useful.

Although the conversion kits for the D’Lite aren’t quite as well thought out as those on the Chariot, they function the same and include options for skiing, jogging, and strolling.

When testing the Burley D’Lite, I sim-ply left it out in my yard and let the strong Rocky Mountain sun beat down upon it. In an ideal situation, a person would use the trailer, then store it inside. After about three months outside, the orange Burley cover faded significantly, and the elastomer sus-pension pieces started to crack in the dry air. The faded color is just aesthetic, but the elastomer pieces would need to be replaced before we headed out on a long tour.

However, unlike other trailer companies, Burley directly sells nearly every part for every trailer on their website. Parts can be ordered individually, so you can literally use the trailer for many years, just replacing individual parts as needed. It’s a great sys-tem that feels very honest. Burley also sells

storage covers for people like me that don’t have storage space in their garage.

Burley D’Lite: Prosl Safety: Burley leads the industry in safety

standards and transparency — our top choice

l Roomy: Bowed-out trailer walls increase internal space, especially if it is only used with one child

l Lightweightl Parts: customers can directly buy replace-

ments parts online, which is cool.l Lots of storage: The D’Lite actually has

enough storage space to be usefulBurley D’Lite: Consl Snaps: One snap on the front of our trailer

wouldn’t stay closed. Burley is changing this design for 2012

l Suspension elastomers: after three months exposed to Colorado weather, these dried and cracked noticeably. Replacements available for $55

Other excellent Burley TrailersSolo ($529) — One-child version of the D’LiteEncore ($399) — More economical bicycle

trailer with the same safety standards as premium models

wike premium double$499 with bike kitwww.wicycle.com, (866) 584-94524 Out of 5 StarsBuilt in Guelph, Canada, Wike Bike

Trailers makes a wide variety of bicycle trailers for all uses. Not as well known in the U.S. as Burley or Chariot, Wike trail-ers are an undiscovered gem. When I first unpacked the trailer they sent me, my first thought was “This thing is built like a tank!” Despite its size (and my perception), this trailer weighs less than the two models already mentioned.

We tested the Wike Premium Double, which carries one or two children, and

High-quality bike trailers get children, and keep mom and dad, on the road

Honey, can we still bike tour?

by nathan ward

chariot couger

burley d’lite

croozer kid

F


weighs in at 21.5 pounds with an overall capacity of 100 pounds. Unlike streamlined trailers, Wike shouts out that it is a big trailer with big windows.

If I were the child riding in the trailer, the size would be ideal. Because I’m the parent pulling the trailer, I have to admit that the larger profile of the Wike Premium Double makes it a bit harder to tow in head-winds and crosswinds. Whether you like the Wike may come down to what is more important to you — your child’s experience or your workload.

Regardless, Wike’s Premium Double packs down in seconds into a compact unit. I would not hesitate to take this trailer on tour. It’s a simple and durable design that maximizes the experience for the child inside.

Wike Premium Double: Prosl Quality: Durable and well designedl Roomy: Tall, wide, and visible on the roadl Lots of storage: The trailer includes a large

external compartment and a storage shelf under the seat

l Made in North Americal Buy direct: order directly from the people

who make the trailersl Folds well: despite the large size, this trail-

er packs very smalll Price: Similar in quality but costs less than

its competitorsl Helmet relief cushion: Available as a $20

accessory for kids ages one to threel Safety: Wike trailers exceed ASTM stan-

dards

Wike Premium Double: Consl Rain fly: It’s a funky design and not per-

manently attached. Might be easy to losel No suspension: Available only on the more

expensive modelOther Great Wike TrailersSoftie Suspension Trailer ($599) — A model

above the Premium Double, with suspen-sion and cool windows that roll up

Premium Single Bike Trailer ($449) — same as Premium Double, but for one child

Moonlite ($369) — Is more economical

Trailing Bikes for Older Children (ages five to eight)

Despite the myriad advantages of child trailers, a time comes when your child sim-ply outgrows them. They’ll want to be on the bike and pedaling, just like mom and dad. This is a good thing because at this point, they are big and heavy enough that you don’t want to be pulling them around like little emperors anymore. It’s time to put their muscles to work on the hills.

A trailing bike is the only simple option for children aged five to eight, besides buy-ing an expensive tandem. There are few options, but the Adams Trail-a-Bike series and the Burley Trailercycles are the best.

Trailing bikes come in single speed or multi-speed (4 or 7) models. They fold or break down for easy transportation.

When children are younger and just starting to ride a trailing bike, a single speed will teach them the concept of pedaling with you. However, as they grow older and stronger, a multiple-speed bike will allow them to pedal more efficiently, learn about gears and shifting, and allow them to help much more when riding up hills.

Trailing bikes should be used in con-junction with a solid main touring bike in front. The front bike also needs to have a rear fender or you will shower your child with road grime when riding in the rain.

adams trail-a-bike alloy Folder one$290www.trail-a-bike.com, (800) 663-89164 out of 5 StarsI tested the Adams Alloy Folder One,

which is an aluminum single speed. It pulls well and attaches to the bike quickly. To fit your child, the only adjustments are raising or lowering the seat and stem.

The Trail-a-Bike attaches to the seat post of the front bike with a heavy-duty clamp that is fit to different stem sizes with plastic shims. This is a simple system that has also been the source of most complaints about this style of trailing bike. In past designs, as the attachment and shims wear, the fit becomes sloppy and the trailing bike flops from side to side when corning. This is disconcerting and unsafe for both the rider and the child.Adams Trail-a-Bike Alloy Folder One: Pros

l Lightweightl Foldable and easy to transportl Quality constructionAdams Trail-a-Bike Alloy Folder One: Consl Hitch design: not a good design for long-

term useOther Adams Trail-a-Bike OptionsOne-speed original, 7-speed, 24-inch wheel

model, tandem

burley piccolo and kazoowww.burley.com, (800) 311-52945 out of 5 Stars — My ChoiceAfter a hiatus, Burley has started produc-

ing their popular Trailercycles again. For the last few years, the only way to buy one of these was secondhand. Back by popular demand, Burley offers the 7-speed Piccolo ($349) and 1-speed kazoo ($299).

Trailercycles operate on the same basic principle as the Adams Trail-a-Bike, but with two important differences. The most impor-tant is that the Burley attaches to a heavy-duty rear rack, perpendicular to the lead bike, and directly over the rear axle. The rear rack can also carry full-size panniers.

This shimmy-free attachment system keeps the Trailercycle and lead bicycle direct-ly in line with each other and eliminates the flop associated with other designs. When the lead bike and Trailercycle are in line, the Trailercycle leans through corners in concert with the lead bike and creates a safer and better riding experience for both parent and child. It is the best system available.

The other difference is not as sig-nificant but worth mentioning. On Burley Trailercycles, the handlebar can be adjusted up and down on the downtube. As the child grows, you can adjust the handlebar position to fit him correctly.

As with their child trailers, Burley emphasizes their safety standards in a very transparent way, and that is really the num-ber one concern for parents.

croozer kid for 13 in 1$435, including bike, stroller, and jog kitwww.croozerdesigns.com2 out of 5 StarsFor a more economical trailer, look at the

Croozer kid for 1 or kid for 2. We tested the kid for 1 that carries one child, weighs a chunky 31 pounds and carries up to 77 pounds. For the heaviest trailer in the roundup, it still pulls fairly well, although you will feel the weight.

Compared to the other trailers already mentioned, this should be your fourth choice. However, for occasional use, or shorter tours, the Croozer will work. The best thing about this trailer is that it comes standard with a three conversion kits — bike, stroller, and jogger.

Croozer Kid for 1: Prosl Lots of storagel Big bumpersl Low profile: more aerodynamicl Good rain fly

Croozer Kid for 1: Consl Awkward seat: Difficult to get the child

sitting comfortable and uprightl Safety: No safety information provided but

meets ASTM standards. Bike attachment falls apart easily

l Back cover leaks: Must carry plastic bags inside or dry bags

l Heavy

Not Recommended for TouringI also tested several other child-carrying

systems, including less expensive trailers, rear seat carriers that fit on trailing bikes, front seats, and more. I don’t recommend any of these for touring, simply from a safety standpoint. Cheap trailers might be good for a run to the park, but not for the open road.

At the same time, bike seats like the kangaroo Carrier made by WeeRide (weeride.com) are super fun for casual trips around town, but don’t work for serious touring.

To sum up, get the best possible trailer or trailing bike you can afford by Chariot, Burley, or Wike. If you can’t buy one of these premium models new, search for a used one in great shape online. You can use

it for a few years, pass it on, and recover much of your initial investment.

What you can’t put a price on is the incredible opportunity to expose your chil-dren to the joy of bike travel when they are young, impressionable, and ready to take on the world. Hook up a trailer, start pushing those pedals, and let your child teach you something new about life.

Nathan Ward is a freelance writer and photographer based in Salida, Colorado. By the time you read this, his son Kian will have already been on bike tour in the U.S. and Europe. For more visit www.NathanWard.com.

burley piccolo

adams trail-a-bike

wike premium double


Geared Up

HolidAy gifts for CyClistsby Mike Deme

Finish line gear Floss ($7, finishlineusa.com/products/gear-

floss.htm, 631-666-7300). Flossing my teeth is one of my least favorite activi-ties, but I’m told it’s necessary. If you’re like me, you’ll find flossing your bike a lot more enjoyable. Gear Floss is made of microfibers with star-shaped grooves (Since I don’t have a microscope, I’ll have to take their word for it) which trap dirt and grime making cleaning hard-to-reach places and components of your bicycle a fairly easy task. They easily slide

between the cogs and teeth of a cassette and around the pulley mechanism of a rear derailer (Not a typo. See sheldon brown.com/derailer.html).

There are 20 tear-resistant, washable ropes in each package and, if you’re one of those people who is often accused of being a bit too tidy or anal retentive, you might want to steer clear of Gear Floss

because you’ll find yourself spending far too much time cleaning your bike.

innate travel storage

($11.50-$34, innate- gear.com/category/travel-enve lopes, 877-406-6283). These storage bags are perfect for the bicycle traveler who likes to keep things compartmental-ized beyond what pannier pockets offer. They’re all lightweight and weather proof, and from the biggest, the large Caravan Cube ($32; 14.2” x 9.5” x 4”, 2.82 oz.) to the smallest, the Portal enve-lope ($17; 9.5” X 7.25”, 0.85 oz.), they offer polyurethane coated zips, stitch-less welded seams, and are constructed with repurposed materials — stuff that would be headed for the land fills or incinerated. And both the Portal Deluxe envelopes and the Carvan compart-ments include a translucent window that makes viewing the contents within them visible.

If you’re a compartmentalizer who dislikes wasting materials, you’ll find the range of Innate Travel Storage prod-ucts useful and conscience pleasing.

cateye hl-el020 hybrid ($55, cateye.com/en/products/

detail/HL-EL020, 800-522-8393). Though they may not have intend-ed to do so, CatEye has

created a light damn near perfect for bicycle touring. The HL-EL020 Hybrid can sit on your handle-bars collecting solar energy all day

while you pedal away, just wait-ing for the oppor-tunity to come in handy. Of course no traveling cyclist wants to get caught out after dark, but not every day goes according to plan. Say you get more flats than you planned or get lost. That won’t happen if you’re using Adventure Cycling maps, but the flat thing is sometimes hard to control.

The Hybrid consists of a solar collec-tor on top of a 5mm white LED amplified by Cateye’s proprietary Opticube lens technology. While it doesn’t produce the

amount of light many high-end bicycle light do, it creates plenty to navigate by.

The Hybrid runs on either a solar-powered NiMH rechargeable battery or a standard AA alkaline backup. There’s a switch on the right side of the light to select which power source you’d like to use. When your using the solar bat-tery, a blue light is emitted, when your using the standard battery, the light is orange. Runtimes for the solar battery are approximately 2.5 hours in constant mode and about 6 hours in flashing. While using the AA alkaline battery, it’s approximately 10 hours in constant mode and about 30 hours in flashing.

hubbub helmet mirror ($29, hubbubcustom.com/store/prod

detail.asp?prod=helmir, 800-888-2027). The HubBub mirror is, as their website states, loosely based on those made by longtime mirror maker Chuck Harris (see “The Mirror Man of Gambier” in the April 2011 Adventure Cyclist). It is a basic piece of equipment consisting of a mirror at one end that adjusts left and right, a 2-inch section of spoke, and a helmet-mount bracket that is also made of spoke. Unlike this numbskull, you’ll probably find it very easy to use as it quickly and easily mounts to the underside of just about any helmet. (An inveterate non-reader of instructions, I thought it attached from the top. You can see how easy it is here: youtube.com/watch?v=DmI5BAXUUDU. The video takes less time than it took for me to type this sentence.)

It takes a bit of time to find the right spot and you may have to bend the spoke section to find your sweet spot. If you do, bend it closer to the mount than to the mirror. If you’d like a more in-depth analysis, check it out here: tandemgeek.wordpress.com/2011/03/05/rear-view-mirrors-my-hubbub-mirror-review.

dual eyewear ($50, dualeyewear.com, 720-235-

1112). We all hate to admit it, but time waits for no man or woman. One of the

first indicators that time moves in one direction (at least that’s how we perceive it anyway) is failing eyesight — we tend

to suffer from farsightedness.

I started wearing read-ing glasses recently so it seemed coinciden-tal that I got a press release about Dual sunglasses, essentially

bifocal shades that allow you to see normal-

ly into the distance but magnify close-up objects when you look through the lower interior part of the lenses. They’re stylish, super light, come in three different models, and in 1.5, 2.0, and 2.5 lens power.

So if you’ve been struggling to see the gadget you’ve got on your handlebars, you might want to consider trying out a pair.

snap-on cdi torque t-handle ($35, 678-948-5401, protorquetools.

com – then search 5NM). Now here’s a handy tool that every cyclist will find useful. The CDI Preset Torque Limiting T-Handle has a rounded shape that fits nicely in your hand and allows you to tighten the many hex bolts that hold your bicycle together to just the right limit so you don’t end up with either a bunch of stripped-out bolts or lingering doubts as to whether you’ve tightened them enough. It comes in three newton metre versions (Nm): 4, 5, and 6, but

5Nm is gen-erally recommended for bicycle parts.

The T-Handle comes with a 4mm bit but its magnetic shank will also accom-modate standard hex bits of other sizes. keep in mind that the T-Handle is only meant to tighten and not loosen bolts so it’s really more of a shop tool than some-thing to throw in your pack.

chrome midway pro ($110, chromebagsstore.com/shoes/

midway-pro.html, 415-503-1221). Chrome is well-known for messenger bags but they also make cycling shoes. I

find the Midway

Pro appealing for a variety of reasons: 1) They’re a mid-length high top and offer a bit more ankle support than a

low-cut shoe; 2) They have a stiff enough sole to keep feet from get-

ting tired when riding long distances; 3) They’re SPD compatible but perform

equally well on platform pedals; 4) They remind me of the Converse

Chuck Taylor canvas sneakers I used to wear as a kid;

and 5) They’re black and don’t show dirt

(and look awesome with red laces).

One thing, though —

because they’re constructed of 1000 denier Cordura,

they take longer to break in than Chuck Taylors, but, once they are broken in, they’re pretty comfortable.


marketplace Marketplace ads start at $195 per issue. For rate information, please please contact Rick Bruner. Phone/fax: (509) 493-4930, Email: [email protected].

35

Shorts & Jerseys Sizes X-Small to 5Xwww.aerotechdesigns.com

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Y

CM

MY

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CMY

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ATD 2.25x1-V3.pdf 1 12/20/10 10:10 AM

Some other nice touches: They have a reflective patch at the back heel; they have steel eyelets to keep their laces from fraying, and they’re easy to walk in due to a recessed cleat and built-in front rocker. The Midway Pro may look like a simple shoe but it’s well designed and well built.

Freeload touring racks ($140, freeload.co.nz, +64 3 4748

619). Every once in a while, someone takes an old idea and puts a new twist on it. That’s what the guys at Freeload have done with the trusty old bicycle rack. While it’s true that there are a fairly wide variety of shapes and sizes available, the Freeload system is a total-ly new approach that allows the basic rack structure to mount on nearly any bike and on both the front and the rear.

The system consists of an heat-treated 6061 aluminum frame, a rack deck, mounting brackets with webbing, and steel struts (three sizes are included as are all hex bolts and allen keys). The flexibility is provided by the the combi-nation of the frame, mounting brackets, and struts to adjust to and fit many dimensions of bicycle frame tubing, which is why the same system can fit to both front forks and rear seat stays.

The first time I looked at the Freeload out of the box I thought it looked a bit complicated, but it’s actually anything but. Which struts you use will depend what type of bike your going to mount to. The shortest struts (80 mm) are to be used if mounted on the front or on the rear of touring, road, and cyclocross bikes; the medium struts (120 mm) are for the rear of hard tail mountain bikes and some full-suspension mountain bikes; and the long struts (150 mm) are for low-angled, full-suspension frames. Once you’ve attached the struts, you can fix the deck (constructed of glass rein-

forced polypropyl-ene, 10 mm heat-

treated 6061 aluminum rails), mak-ing sure the u-shaped end of the frame

slides under the green toe plate of the deck. You can then either snap closed the attachment hooks by hand or flip the rack over and push down, which will also engage the hooks.

Now that the basic assembly is in place, it’s time to mount it to your bike, which is just a matter of finding a place on your frame for the mounting brack-ets where the rack won’t interfere with your brakes or cables, and tightening the webbing. Once this is done, make sure

the rack is straight and you can tighten all bolts.

The Freeload can be used with just the platforms in place or you can attach the side frames ($37) for attaching pan-niers. Assembled this way it supports 55 lbs. and weighs 3.2 lbs.

If you’re interested in trying a novel and flexible rack system, check out Freeload. Their website is full of useful information and they’re happy to answer questions.


classifiedadsRate: $115 for the first 30 words, $2 for each additional word. For more information, please contact Rick Bruner at phone/fax: (509) 493-4930, email: [email protected].

bicycle touring gearthetouringstore.com — Buy Expedition Quality Panniers, Racks, & Bicycle Touring Gear at Great Prices! See Ortlieb, Tubus, Lone Peak, and More! Questions? Call Wayne Toll Free at (800) 747-0588, Email us at: [email protected], or visit us at www.TheTouringStore.com.

bikebagshop.com — The largest selection of Bike Bags & Bike Racks - by Ortlieb, Vaude, Lone Peak, Tubus, Old Man Mountain & More! BikeTrailerShop.com — The largest selection of Bike Cargo Trailers — by BOB, Burley, Extrawheel, Wandertec & More! 1-800-717-2596.

cyclocamping.com — SAVE on Bicycle Touring Gear & Camping Equipment. 50+ Top Quality Brands - Ranked in the TOP 1% at ResellerRatings.com - FAST Shipping + FREE Shipping on orders >$120 - Enjoy our Forum, Daily Articles and our Experts Corner at www.cyclocamping.com.

bike shopsrecumbents, tandems, trikes — Rans, Easy Racer, Sun, Cycle Genius, Bacchetta Recumbents - kHS, Schwinn, Raleigh Tandems - Greenspeed, HP VeloTechnik Trikes - Electra Touring. Jay’s Pedal Power, 512 E. Girard Ave., Philadelphia, PA 19125; (215) 425-5111, Toll-free (888) 777-JAYS, Visit our website at: www.jayspedalpower.com.

arriVing by bike — Eugene, Oregon’s Urban Cycling Outfitters. Gear, guidance and enthusiasm to support your life-bik-ing. Basil, Ortlieb, Tubus, Detours, Showers Pass, Ibex and Endura plus loads of fenders, lights, reflectives, tools and Brooks saddles. Xtracycles! 2705 Willamette St., 541.484.5410, [email protected].

tandems east — Road, Mountain and Travel Tandems. Over 60 in stock. Wheel build-ing, child conversions, repairs, parts catalog, test rides. Back-stocking Conti and Schwalbe touring tires. 86 Gwynwood Dr, Pittsgrove, NJ 08318. Phone: (856) 451-5104, Fax: (856) 453-8626. Email: [email protected] or visit our website at: www.tandemseast.com.

eventsbicycle ride across georgia (brag) — Georgia BikeFest, October 14-16, 2011, Columbus, GA. Spring Tune-Up, Madison, GA. April 20-22, 2012. Great fun for families and groups. Various mileage options. 770-498-5153, [email protected], www.brag.org.

Help wantedJoin the cycle america summer staFF — Spend an adventuresome summer travel-ing while sharing ride and work respon-sibilities. Positions include: Tour Support Volunteers, Bike Mechanics, Massage Therapists, Picnic and Route Coordinators. 800-716-4426. www.CycleAmerica.com.

international tourspedal and sea adVentures — We’re a personable travel company offering creative cycling and multi-sport adventures in many of the world’s best places, including Nova Scotia, Newfoundland, P.E.I., Costa Rica, Croatia, Italy, Greece, Norway, and Ireland. Guided and self-guided. Van-supported. Friendly guides. Charming inns. Custom groups anytime. Over 70% return clientele since 2005! Toll Free Phone: 877-777-5699. Please email us at [email protected] or visit our website: www.pedalandsea adventures.com.

cycling adVentures in south east asia — Custom designed itineraries and small-group adventures for people who care. Thailand, Laos, Cambodia, Vietnam, Malaysia, Indonesia, the Philippines. A Uk licensed Asia specialist. Symbiosis Custom Travel, +44 845 123 2844. www.symbiosis-travel.com, [email protected].

Freewheeling adVentures. guided & selF-guided — Small groups since 1987. Flexible, positive service. Famous and unusu-al rides in Canada, Iceland, Europe, Israel, Central America. Go your own pace. Choose hills and distances or flat and relaxed. 800-672-0775; www.freewheeling.ca; [email protected].

europe — 200 routes in 30 countries — Bike Tours Direct - Guided and self-guid-ed tours with European bike tour companies. Weekly and daily departures. Tours from $600. From familiar - Loire Valley, Provence, Danube, Tuscany, Bavaria, Ireland - to exotic - Croatia, Greece, Turkey, Slovenia, Adriatic island-hopping. 877-462-2423 www.bike toursdirect.com. [email protected].

bike italy with siciclando! Start plan-ning your 2012 bike tour of Italy now! Cycle by fields of wildflowers in a May tour of Sicily! Celebrate a special occasion in Tuscany Maremma! Discover your ancestry in Basilicata or Apulia! We are here to sup-port your next biking adventure and help you make memories along the way. More information at www.siciclando.com.

topbicycle tours in central europe — 7 to 10-day self-guided and guided cycling vacations. We are a specialist for bike tours in Central Europe since 1996. We concentrate only on the countries where we live: Czech Republic, Slovakia, Austria, Hungary, Germany, and Poland. Visit and ride between the beautiful cities of Vienna, Prague, Budapest, krakow, Salzburg, Dresden, and Passau. Carefully planned self-guided tours. Small guided groups with local knowl-edgeable guides. We can customize our tours according to your wishes. Quality bike rental available. www.topbicycle.com. info@top bicycle.com.

cycle the scenic backroads oF Vietnam — Hanoi to Saigon, January 31 – February 14, 2012. Fully supported, meals, hotels, experienced support staff and vehi-cles. Experience a country with unspoiled hidden treasures, a stunning landscape with a magnificent coast line, ancient and quaint villages, breathtaking mountains, warm hos-pitality, and a safe environment. E-mail: [email protected], website: www.discovervietnam.com. Tel: 1-800-613-0390.

north American tourstimberline adVentures — Fully sup-ported bicycling & hiking adventure vaca-tions with an organization whose sole focus for 26 years is extraordinary adventure throughout western U.S. & Canada. Website: www.timbertours.com Email: timber@earth net.net Phone: 800-417-2453.

women only bike tours — For all ages and abilities. Fully supported, inn-to-inn, bike path & road tours. Cross-country, National Parks, Europe & more. Bicycle work-shops, wine tasting, yoga. Call for free cata-log. 800-247-1444, www.womantours.com.

Vacation bicycling — “After taking more than 90 bicycle tours, Vacation Bicycling is one of our top 10 experiences!” We provide beautiful 7-day tours from $1099, includ-ing hotels, food & SAG through Martha’s Vineyard/Cape Cod, NC Outer Banks, Maui, Arizona’s Sonoran Desert, Florida keys and Canada’s Prince Edward Island. Come join us! 800-490-2173 www.VacationBicycling.com.

alaska bicycle tours — with Sockeye Cycle, since 1988. Offering guided trips throughout our breathtaking region. Experience the beauty of Alaska and the Yukon with local guides and gourmet cui-sine. 877-292-4154 www.cyclealaska.com.

Our Affordable More Miles for Less Tours Include

Italy Tuscany | Piedmont | PugliaSardegna | Italian Alps

Spain NEW Gran Canaria

Plus Croatia, Austria & Czech, Scotland, Ireland, Norway, Greece & More

6 day tours from $2,695Fully Guided and Supported

22 Years ExperienceGroup and Club Tours for 5 – 50 People

ciclismoclassico.com1.800.866.7314

Price based on More Miles for Less tours in Tuscany and Piedmont, based on double occupancy.

The World’s Best Bike Tours

Featuring the Most Beautiful Rides

Top Cap Cage Mount

Excellent for bikes with no Water Bottle mounts or an extra bottle for long rides.

Replaces the Top-Cap on threadless stems.

Remove the Top-Cap, mount with the long end forward, install cage, go for a ride.

Made in U.S.A.www.kingcage.com

With see me® wear™ they will.

Make sure drivers see you.

www.seemewear.com/cyclist

Long Sleeve

• Fluorescent colors increase the distance a driver sees you 5 ½ times! (Bicycling, December 2010 pg. 34)

• See the demo at our website.• Made in USA. Colors won’t fade.• 100% poly for maximum wicking. Invisible ½ zipper, 3 back pockets.• Long sleeve and windbreaker available November 1st.

continued on next page

marketplacecontinued

Open Road Gallery


This photograph celebrates the ladies of the 2011, 10-person Adventure Cycling self-supported TransAmerica Tour. Adventure Cycling has been leading these cross-country expeditions spanning the U.S. for 36 years. “I love this picture,” says tour leader Sally Fenton (middle) “because it shows how five women, ages 22 to 68, can meet on a bike trip and become the best of friends. We really did have as much fun as reflected in the photo.”

Cathy (far left) fell in love with cycle tourism later in life as did Dolores (second from right), a 68-year-old retired librarian who has crossed the country three times by bicycle in the past three years. Cathy has a list of highlights from this tour including: savoring the best homemade blueberry pie ever, listening to kelly (22, second from left) patiently teach Dolores about Facebook, getting her first glimpse of the snow-capped Rockies, and finding wild apricots in the Snake River Canyon. Her favorite takeaways, of course, are the friendships she developed with the other women riders.

So what’s with the tie-dye? The dresses were purchased in Eminence, Missouri, on that loca-tion’s hottest day in 100 years. The garments were in the campground store and looked like they would be refreshing change after a day of spandex and heat. With Ellen’s (far right) encouragement, the group purchased them amidst a fit of giggles. After a few weeks, Sally decided hers was extra weight so she left it behind. Ellen surreptitiously retrieved the dress, and presented it to her right before this photo was shot.

But after the photo, Sally still felt the dress was unwanted weight and was nice enough to pass it on to me. If you visit Adventure Cycling next summer on a sweltering day, there’s a good chance you’ll see me wearing it!

From Adventure Cycling’s National Bicycle Touring Portrait Collection. © 2011 Adventure Cycling Association.

dressed for suCCessby Sarah Raz Photograph by Derek Gallagher

crossroads cycling adVentures — Celebrating 15 years of excellence! Come ride with Tracy Leiner - owner, cyclist and tour director. Tracy travels with every group, everyday managing daily logistics, driving support vans and pedaling with her cyclists. Small groups, personal attention, superior accommodations and meals. Extensive pre-trip support including training plan and telephone consultations. Rider reference list available. (800) 971-2453 www.crossroadscycling.com.

america by bicycle, inc. — Your full service bicycle touring leader. Chose from 38 tours ranging from 5 to 52 days. Let us take you on your dream ride — Coast to Coast! abbike.com. 888-797-7057 FREE CATALOG.

coast 2 coast — Hassle free closely fol-lowing Southern Tier averaging 63 miles per day. Fully supported including freshly- pre-pared great-tasting meals, and a mechanic. You dip your rear wheel into the Pacific and your front wheel into the Atlantic, I will do everything in between. March 8 – April 30, 2012. BubbasPamperedPedalers.com or [email protected].

carolina tailwinds bicycle Vacations — Easy, flat terrain tours include: South Carolina’s Lowcountry, North Carolina’s Outer Banks, and Maryland’s Eastern Shore. More challenging, mountainous tours include: Virginia’s Shenandoah Valley and North Carolina’s Blue Ridge Mountains. All tours include intimate group size, cozy country inns, and outstanding cuisine. www.carolinatailwinds.com; 888-251-3206.

all rides are not created eQual — Challenge yourself riding 400+ miles and climbing 30,000’ through the Scenic Byways and National Parks of the West. 714-267-4591 www.cyclingescapes.com.

cycle canada — Affordable Supported Tours Book now for our Fall Colours Tour From the organizers of Tour du Canada Call 800-214-7798 or visit www.CycleCanada.com Discovering Canada by bike since 1988.

bike gapco — June 24-30. 2012. Finally a bicycle tour connecting the Great Allegheny Passage (GAP) and the C&O Canal Towpath (Co). Ride safely on off-road bike paths, void of motorized traffic, from Pittsburgh to D.C. while passing through some of the most spectacular scenery you will ever see from a bicycle. Details for this fully supported tour can be found at BikeGapCo.com.

ride two states-two countries — Bike the International Selkirk Loop, North America’s only two-nation Scenic Byway through Washington, Idaho, Canada. Pick your pace for 280 miles of incredible self-supported riding! www.selkirkloop.org.

bike touring in warm climates! — Join us for fun touring in warmer climates February 2012, Arizona and California. Top tier lodging, delicious dining, great touring companions. Fully supported SAG and expe-rienced staff. Early Booking Discounts NOW. www.Escapadesbiketours.com 877-880-2453.

cycle america’s national parks — Visit North America’s majestic treasures on our fully-supported series of National Park Tours. Cycle through a painted Southwest wilderness, ride the Canadian Rockies, or bike an undulating Pacific Coast. Good friends, great routes and first-rate support! Let us help you plan your next fun and affordable cycling adventure. 800-245-3263. www.CycleAmerica.com. www.CycleAmerica.com.

cycle america® coast-to-coast — Enjoy a Fully Supported Cycling Vacation this Summer. Explore North America’s treasures on an epic Coast-to-Coast tour from Seattle to Boston. Choose one or ride several Cross State segments. Good Friends, Great Routes and First-Rate Support! Let us help you plan your next fun and affordable cycling adventure. 800-245-3263. www.CycleAmerica.com.

bike the Florida keys — The ultimate Bicycle Vacation. Bike the entire key system, down and back. Fully-supported including breakfasts and most dinners. Beautiful sunsets. Swim with the dolphins. Snorkel. Dive. The Seven Mile Bridge just might be the most beautiful seven miles you will ever bike. November 5–12, 2011. Details from BubbasPamperedPedalers.com or [email protected].

historical trails cycling — oregon trail tour 2012 — Ride through the history of Ruts, Wagons, Forts, Cowboys and Indians on Americas Mother Road. Fully supported, affordable, camping tour. Friendly experienced staff and delicious meals. 402-499-0874, Website: www.histor icaltrailscycling.com.

ride with adVenture cycling in 2012 —It’s not too early to start planning your cycling adventure for 2012! With our early and epic tours already online and our sum-mer and fall tours coming out October 13th, there’s truly something for everyone-- from our classic self-contained or van-support-ed adventures to our fully-supported rides, which come complete with luggage transpor-tation and catered meals. See our website for more information. www.adventurecycling.org/toursmag (800) 755-245.

around the south island of New Zealand this December through February. The plan is to spend about a month total on the saddle. I’m leaning to make that month from mid-January to mid-February but I’m also open to start rid-ing in mid-December. Looking to camp/hostel/cheap hotel my way around the island. Would love to have some friends along for the ride! If interested email [email protected].

lewis & clark (mostly) June 25 to August 12, 2012. I’m a 53-year-old male riding with my children and friends and would welcome oth-ers who could help with driving a support vehicle. Will stay mostly in motels. We’ll ride the Lewis & Clark route but will visit Mt. Rushmore and then strike east at Sioux City, Iowa, and ride to Chicago. From there we’ll head to the Jersey Shore. If interested email [email protected].

texas to canada and back March, 2012. A friend and I are riding from Amarillo, Texas, to Banff and Jasper National Parks (in Canada), then heading west and south along the coast until we get to San Francisco. Then we will head back east to Texas. We would love companions on any part of the route. We plan to have an easygoing pace and to complete the trip in six months. Several of the Adventure Cycling routes will be used, and we will camp most of the time. This is our first cross-country trip. Email puff [email protected] for more details.

lewis & clark trail Spring 2012. Preliminary planning to bike the Lewis & Clark Trail from St. Louis to the coast. Planned to go solo, but wife would prefer that I go with a companion. Camping mostly with occasional motel stays and rest days — no deadline. Pace will depend on conditions and compromise among riders. I’m 59, retired, in great shape, no medical issues or criminal record, easygoing, and like challenges. Riding a Surly Long Haul Trucker. Just gauging interest; showing interest doesn’t mean committment. Email [email protected].

crossing asia I’m looking for companion(s) to bicycle from Dubai, United Arab Emirates, in the Middle East to Bali, Indonesia, in Southeast Asia starting in March of 2012 (my prediction is three month). Prefer on-road route, guest houses, and camping. Riding to enjoy the trip and the beautiful scenery, and to take many photographs. I’m a 28-year-old and male. If interested please send me [email protected].

Adventure Cycling Association assumes, but can-not verify, that the persons above are truthfully representing themselves. Ads are free to Adventure Cycling members. You can see more ads and post new ones at www.adventurecycling.org/mag/comp anions.cfm or send your ad to Adventure Cyclist, P.O. Box 8308, Missoula, MT 59807.

continued from page 7

classifiedadscontinued

Adventure Cycling AssociationP.O. Box 8308Missoula, Montana 59807-8308

Non-profitU.S. POSTAGE

PAIDAdventure Cycling

Association

self ContAined: florida keys winter escape l outer banks l transAm l sierra Cascades red rock ramble l great lakes l Cape Cod Pilgrimage l finger lakes loop l glacier/waterton denali Adventure l great divide Canada l Adirondack loop l Cascadian traverse l selkirk splendor Atlantic Coast l black Hills l san Juan ramble l southern tier l great lakes inn to inn l vermont inn to inn

fully suPPorted: C&o family l Arizona road Adventure l texas Hill Country spring l blue ridge blissgreat lakes relaxed l freedom flyer l wine & Harvest l C&o Canal/gAP l Cycle utah spring Cycle montana l katy family l Cycle washington l Cycle divide montana l Colorado wild flowers oregon Coastal odyssey l Colorado family

vAn suPPorted: death valley loop l southern tier l transAm l northern tierteton/yellowstonePueblos to Peaks l wild Coast l Pacific Coast l big bend loop l grand Canyon

NEW & CLASSIC 2012 TOURS: SIGN UP TODAY!

www.adventurecycling.org/toursmag

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8 geared up 32 39 Cy AdventureClist · 10/11/2011 · 10/112:011contents gold silVer bronZe titanium urban bicycle outfitters esri 3g mobility hike & bike italy ... rear-view bike