Embed Size (px)
Citation preview
2
With today’s demand for natural personal care products, the use of a high quality vegetable oil for its emollient properties is particularly desirable. However, the problem with most natural, lipid-based emollients is their tendency to become rancid. As a result, irritating compounds are released and product shelf life is reduced. To overcome inherent oxidative stability problems, formulations often are loaded with antioxidants. Yet, this does not significantly improve stability and it can substantially increase costs. Ultimately, oxidative stability problems with most natural, lipid-based emollients will limit the quality, acceptance, shelf life and profitability of your product.
Now there is a natural solution: , the first natural oil made to last.
is a natural, triglyceride oil with superb oxidative stability and excellent emollient properties. The unprecedented resistance of to ran-cidity is largely due to its high oleic acid content which represents 85% to 90% of the oil. By including this monounsaturated fatty acid and excluding high levels of polyunsaturates, exceptional oxidative stability is achieved without the presence of trans fatty acids.
Using traditional Mendelian breeding techniques, novel cultivars were developed from the sunflower plant Helianthus annuus. When the oil is extracted, a crystal clear, odorless, low-color vegetable oil is produced that offers superior emolliency, elegant skin feel and excellent spreadability. is the natural replacement for less stable vegetable oils, non-biodegradable mineral oils and/or synthetic esters in personal care formulations. Moreover, it is hypo-allergenic, non-comedogenic and Generally Recognized As Safe (G.R.A.S.) for human use around the world.
In the discussion that follows, you will see why simply adding tocopherols to oils such as traditional sunflower is not enough to prevent rancidity. You will understand why the addition of natural tocopherols so enhances the shelf life of that our product is patented. You will also realize why there is no better way to improve the shelf life of your products than with . In fact, in your formula adds up to better profitability with less waste to equal greater unspoiled success for you.
HO
0 Stearic Acid (Saturate) Relative Oxidation Rate = 1HO
0 Oleic Acid (Monoene) Relative Oxidation Rate = 10HO
0 Linoleic Acid (Polyunsaturate) Relative Oxidation Rate = 100HO
0 Linolenic Acid (Polyunsaturate) Relative Oxidation Rate = 200
is:
• Globally Approved
• Bio/plant-based
• GMO - Free
• BSE - Free
• Trans-fat - Free
• REACH - Exempt
Table 1
3
The impact of the high oleic content in is best understood as it relates to stability. Stability of an oil implies its relative resistance to oxidation. When the oil interacts with the oxygen in the air, the oil deteriorates and forms by-products. These by- products are usually aldehyde and shortchain acids, such as formic and acetic acids. These compounds can be irritants and most certainly produce strong, rancid odors.
The process of oxidation cannot be eliminated except by the exclusion of oxygen or in other words, absence of air. The rate of oxidation can be influenced by several factors including exposure to light, temperature, the oil’s fatty acid composition and the use of antioxidants. The chemistry of oxidation is complex and difficult to summarize. However, the resistance of to oxidation can be understood by examining the relative susceptibility of fatty acids to oxidation. Table 1 shows the relative oxidation rates of the most common fatty acids found in vegetable oils.
As you can see in Table 1, a vegetable oil made entirely of stearic acid would be the most stable. Unfortunately, as a fully saturated vegetable oil, it is a solid at room temperature with a melting point above 60°C. In order to create a natural liquid at ambient temperature, unsaturation or double bonds in the fatty acid structure are required. Table 1 reveals a very stable, unsaturated oil would be composed entirely of oleic acid, but the inclusion of even a small amount of polyunsaturates dramatically decreases the oil’s stability.
Graph 2 compares the natural oleic content of Traditional Sunflower Oil to and also illustrates the polyunsaturate level in each oil. With less than 5% total polyunsaturates, can be predicted to be significantly more stable than traditional sunflower oil and other sunflower oil products with > 5% polyunsaturate.
The genus of
sunflower is derived
from the Greek
meaning “sun,” and
meaning
“flower.” The Spanish
name for sunflower,
, and the French
word, literally
mean “turn with the
sun.” This trait, called
heliotropism, is exhibited
by sunflowers until after
full bloom, after which
the heads face east.
������ ���� ����� � �� � ��� � ���
< LESS STABLE MORE STABLE >
% Monoenes and Saturates % Polyunsaturates
FLORASUN 90 vs. Traditional Sunflower Oil
FLORASUN�(&�
)��� � �����!��*������� �
Graph 2
4
For centuries, people in the
Middle East have used oils
high in monounsaturated
oleic acid to combat skin
dehydration and reduce
hair damage caused by arid
conditions. Their intuition told
them what we now know about
the tendency of skin cells to
minimize the accumulation
of polyunsaturated acids to
protect against free radical
formation and cellular
damage. Oleic acid is the
major fatty acid in
and is also
common in the natural oils
produced by skin glands. This
fatty acid similarity is the
basis for a natural affinity that
allows for easy absorbency
without the greasy feeling
typical of other oils.
Because it is an important guide to product performance and shelf life, there are many reasons to choose oils that are highly resistant to oxidation. The traditional method for accelerated analysis of oil stability has been the Active Oxygen Method (AOM) which is based on peroxide value.
However, after a long history of development, a new, superior, automated instrument provides an Oxidative Stability Index (OSI) which has been shown to produce more reliable and reproducible results than the AOM.
Graph 3 depicts the oxidative stability of various cosmetic oils according to OSI hours.* You will notice here that is the most stable oil with few exceptions, such as macadamia oil.
*IO-20 OSI hours are approximate to one year of shelf life.
Although the addition of mixed natural tocopherols (natural Vitamin E) to creates a synergistic effect, the same result does not occur with common oils. As an example, we added up to 5000 ppm (0.5%) tocopherols to traditional sunflower, apricot, and high-oleic safflower oil. Yet, adding this high level of antioxidant increases the oxidative stability index only slightly. In contrast, with 1000 ppm natural tocopherols gave an oxidative stability index of 59 hours – nearly ten times that obtained from traditional sunflower oil loaded with antioxidants. Graph 4 illustrates the futility of adding tocopherols to other common vegetable oils, in an attempt to obtain stability equivalent to .
Graph 3
Babassu
Jojoba
Squalane
Safflower (high oleic)
Apricot Kernel
Mink (light)
Sesame Seed
Almond
Avocado
Rice Bran
Wheat Germ
Canola
Sunflower (traditional)
Grape Seed
Borage
Evening Primrose
0
Method - AOCS cd 12b-92
10 20 30 40 50 60 70
OSI Hours
Generally stable for use in cosmetics
Generally unstable for use in cosmetics
5
Ingredient Claims:
Extended shelf life of products
Natural emolliency
Stable
Non-greasy
Elegant skin feel
Non-comedogenic
0 40 80 95V E R S I ON
OSI
(hou
rs)
50
0I II III IV
Massage Oil Stability with Increased Levels of FloraSun 90
0
5
10
15
20
25
30
35
40
FloraSun 90 vs Common Vegetable Oils
100
80
60
40
20
0
0 2000 3000 4000 5000
FloraSun 90
� High-oleic SafflowerApricotTraditional Sunflower
T o c o p h e r o l s A d d e d ( p pm )
Oxid
ativ
e St
abil
ity
Inde
x (h
ours
)
�� �
�
1000 2000 3000 4000 5000
Even adding lower levels of resulted in improving the stability of the massage oil significantly. Graph 5 shows when most of the oils were replaced with in the formula, stability increased by more than 370%.
By adding to your cosmetic formulation in place of less stable oils, you can improve the stability and shelf life of your product while gaining excellent natural emolliency. Table 6 shows the formulas used to compare the effect on oxidative stability by adding to a massage oil formulation.
� ��Version: ������������ ������ ���������� ����������
OSI (hours) 1.4 7 16 38
Massag s Comparison Teste Oil Formula
FLORASUN 90 --- 40 80 95
High Oleic Safflower Oil 80 40 --- 3
Grape Seed Oil 15 15 15 0.5
Jojoba Oil 3 3 3 0.5
Sweet Almond Oil 1.3 1.3 1.3 0.5
Sesame Seed Oil 0.55 0.55 0.55 0.35
Mixing procedure provided upon request Numbers shown are percentages
Graph 4
Graph 5
Table 6
6
Sunflower seeds originated
in North America. The
history of conventional
sunflower usage by
humans can be traced to
the Hopi and other Native
American tribes of the arid
southwestern United States.
In addition, settlers found
Native American tribes in
Virginia using sunflower oil
in bread as early as 1590.
It is said that the wild
sunflower of the western
USA was a camp-following
weed of North American
natives. These weeds
were the originators of
the cultivated sunflower.
Today the sunflower is
second only to soybean
as a worldwide source
for vegetable oil.
Color Comparison of Refined Oils
0 10 20 30 50+
Lovibond YellowLovibond Red
Jojoba
Macadamia
FloraSun 90
Cashew Nut
Castor
Avocado
Almond
Walnut
Canola
Apricot Kernel
Soybean
Sesame Seed
Safflower
Cotton Seed
Grape Seed
Evening Primrose
Wheat Germ
Rice Bran
������������ ��������
��������� ����� ��������� �� ��������������� �
������������!���������������� ��
!������� �
�"�#�$%�"&�#�'&%$�#�"&%'�#�'&%'�#�"&%$�#�"&%"&�#�($%'�#�"&%'�#�"&%"&�#�(&%
Product Category Typical Use Levels
offers strong marketing appeal and technical rationale because it is natural, botanical, renewable, biodegradable and has exceptional natural emolliency. Moreover, the absence of odor makes ideal for use in delicately fragranced aromatherapy and massage oil preparations.
As Graph 8 shows, is almost colorless, making it ideal for use in color cosmetics containing titanium dioxide and other pigments.
Table 7 identifies some applications for and typical use levels.
has an HLB requirement of approximately 6.
Table 7
Graph 8
7
It is quite likely that the
sunflower was one of many
desert botanicals from
the southwest collected by
early Spanish explorers and
introduced in Europe where
it rapidly became popular in
gardens and as a source of food.
The sunflower has since been
developed into a commercial-
scale, oil-producing crop.
Sunflowers were not widely
cultivated in the United States
in the past. However, due in
part to several important break-
throughs in sunflower breeding
and varietal improvement,
planted acreage has rapidly
expanded during the last
decade. The latest development
was the introduction of high-
oleic varieties of sunflowers.
This important advancement is
so unique that it has U.S.
patent protection.
Sunscreen Formula
Ingredients % wt./wt.
FloraSun 90 4.60Cetyl Dimethicone Copolyol 2.00PPG-3 Myristyl Ether 0.50Hydrogenated Castor Oil 0.75Microcrystalline Wax 1.25Cyclomethicone 4.00Cetyl Dimethicone 1.00Predispersed Titanium Dioxide 3.00Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate 4.50Benzophenone-3 2.50Ethylhexyl Palmitate 5.50Water Q.S.Preservative Q.S.Sodium Chloride 0.80Fragrance Q.S.
Mixing instructions provided upon request
INCI Name: Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed OilCAS Number: 8001-21-6EINECS Number: 232-273-9JCIC Number: 520924Packaging: 190 Kg drum (standard) 17 Kg pail (available)
Florasun 90 is REACH-Exempt
Property Test Method Units RangeFatty Acid Composition AOCS* Ce 1e-91 area %
Palmitic 16:0 4 maxStearic 18:0 5 maxOleic 18:1 85 minLinoleic 18:2 5 maxLinolenic 18:3 0.5 max
Refractive Index @ 40°C AOCS Cc 7-25 nD 1.455 - 1.475Saponification Value AOCS Cd 3-25 mg KOH/g 187 - 194Specific Gravity ‘Trans’ isomers AOCS Cd 14-95 wt.% None detected
AOCS Cc 10c-95 0.90 - 0.92
Acid Value AOCS Cd 3d-63 mg KOH/g 1 maxColor AOCS Cc 13e-92 Lovibond 5 3 /4” 0.9R, 5Y maxIodine Value AOCS Cd 1d-92 or 1c-85 g/100 g 75 - 87Peroxide Value AOCS Cd 8-53 meq/kg 4 maxOxidative Stability Index @ 110°C AOCS Cd 12b-92 hours 50 min
In addition to using as a natural replacement for mineral oil and less stable vegetable oils and esters, it has exceptional wetting properties and is an excellent choice in sunscreens. Table 9 demonstrates how high SPF numbers are achieved in a state-of-the-art, water-resistant, water-in-oil formulation, utilizing relatively low levels of chemical UV absorbers, augmented by ultrafine TiO2 and cetyl dimethicone copolyol emulsifier.
*American Oil Chemists’ Society methods.
Table 9
Table 10
