The Science and Marketing ofThe Science and Marketing ofCosmeticsCosmetics

Dr. Maria LabedzkaPresenting to theMarketing Group of the Royal Society of Chemistry

21 March 2011

WHAT ARE COSMETICS?WHAT ARE COSMETICS?

Not just make up but also

•soap•shower and bath gels•toothpaste•shampoo•body lotion•anti-ageing creams•deodorants•shaving creams … the list isendless

True for Europe but productssuch as antiperspirants ortoothpaste might be regarded asdrugs e.g. in the USA

Roles Behind Launching CosmeticRoles Behind Launching CosmeticProductsProducts

Cosmetic ScienceFunctions

ProductDevelopment

Research

Processing

ManufacturingMarketing

Finance Logistics

CosmeticRegulations

PerfumeHouses

PackagingDevelopment

Quality

MaterialSuppliers

StrategicTrust

SafetyProfessionals

Claim Support

Efficacy Testing

Consumer Research

The Role ofThe Role of Research

•Understanding the substrate –the biologyand physiology of skin, hair, sweat glands ...

•Researching active ingredients and theircombinations to deliver new or improvedbenefits

•Understanding the mode of action of activeingredients and how to measure their benefit

Research

MOISTURISED SKIN

DESQUAMATION OCCURRING

CONTINUOUS OIL LAYERON SURFACE

FLUID,CONTINUOUS,SKIN LIPIDS

FEW INTACT DESMOSOMES

Research

DRY SKIN

WATER LOSS THROUGH FRACTURE IN LIPIDS

DESQUAMATION NOT OCCURRING CAUSING ROUGH SKIN SURFACEDISCONTINUOUS OIL LAYERON SURFACE

CRYSTALLINE,FRACTUREDSKIN LIPIDS

DESMOSOMES NOT BEING DEGRADED BY ENZYMES

Research

ROLE OF MOISTURISINGINGREDIENTS

STRATUMCORNEUM

BASALPLANE

H20

DERMIS

OILHUMECTANT

Research

Importance ofImportance of

•“The European Cosmetics Regulations arethe best in the World.”

•An army of scientists supports thedecisions of the SCCS –ScientificCommittee of Consumer Safety

•The EU Cosmetics Directive regulates theuse of specific ingredients –e.g. positive listsfor preservatives, UV filters, colorants

•Risk assessment is a legal requirement

•Ban on animal testing

CosmeticRegulations

The Role ofThe Role of•Development of the processing methodswhich give the optimum product performanceusing the available manufacturing facilities

•Engineering and science of behaviour ofmaterials

•Managing specifications of final products anddeveloping GMP - Good ManufacturingPractice

Processing

The Role ofThe Role of•Development of packaging materials which notonly are attractive for the consumer but also arecompatible with the formulations•Material science essential for creatingsustainable and cost effective containers whichcan be efficiently run in the manufacturingprocess•Often essential for product performance andsafety e.g. Aerosols

PackagingDevelopment

The Role ofThe Role of•Quality assurance of raw materials,packaging components and final cosmeticproducts•Science of analytical chemistry,microbiology and material testing•Essential in creating material specificationswith the suppliers as well as specification ofthe final goods - GMP

Quality

The Role ofThe Role of•Defining the consumer needs and assessingthe consumer perceptions of technical productaspects•Fragrance and packaging - very important•Consumer research science –includingpsychology, demographics, social, culturaland environmental aspects•Power of statistics

Consumer Research

The Role ofThe Role of•Proof of effects claimed on cosmeticproducts is required by law

•Advertising highly regulated in the UK –ASA–Advertising Standards Authority nowincluding web advertising

•Pre-clearance forTV or radioadvertising- Clearcast

Claim SupportEfficacy Testing

The Role ofThe Role ofClaim Support

Efficacy Testing

Claim Support

Efficacy TestingThe Role of

Science/ Research

Communication between allCommunication between allfunctionsfunctions ––essential for successessential for success

Cosmetic ScienceFunctions

ProductDevelopment

Research

ProcessingFormulation

ManufacturingMarketing

Finance Logistics

CosmeticRegulations

PerfumeHouses

PackagingDevelopment

Quality

MaterialSuppliers

StrategicTrust

SafetyProfessionals

Claim Support

Efficacy Testing

Consumer Research

Cosmetic ScienceCosmetic Science ––Education to HighestEducation to HighestStandardsStandards

-Chemistry-Skin biology

-Raw materials-Microbiology

Solid knowledge base acrossessential elements of CosmeticScience and related appliedfields.

Product Development, Claim Support, ProjectManagement - Self-directed study combiningpractical work, knowledge and creativity –final UG year.

Experience in the process of making andmarketing Cosmetic Products from theconcept to product delivery to theconsumer –according to latestlegislation

“Real life”experience in the cosmeticindustry –in various functions

Industry placement

BScHons

-Formulation principles-Formulation practice

-Marketing-Perfumery

-Legislation and safety-Skin & hair care +

decorative cosmetics-Packaging development

-Quality management

MSc starting from 2012

COSMETICCOSMETICSCIENCESCIENCE

•Not just make up but also looking at …•Soap, shower and bath gels, toothpaste, shampoo, body lotion, anti-ageing

creams, deodorants, shaving creams …•Application of sciences: chemistry; biology; physics; physical chemistry•Science with an end in view … Science for profit!

•Science for wellbeing and self-esteem!

•See some of our students in action:

www.fashion.arts.ac.uk/video_showcase

Videos –How to make a lipstickHow to make a foundation

COURSE STRUCTURECOURSE STRUCTURE

2009 FdA Fashion Marketing and Promotion

AcknowledgmentsAcknowledgmentsDr Emma Meredith –CTPADr Danka Tamburic –London College of Fashion,

science programme directorDr Paul Matts –principal scientist P & G also a Visiting

Professor at LCF