10 Sheep's Milk Cheeses, An Excerpt from The Atlas of American Artisan Cheese

AMERICANARTISAN CHEESE

F O R E W O R D S B Y

CARLO PETRINI Slow Food International

ALLISON HOOPERAmerican Cheese Society

Jeffrey P. Roberts

The Atlas of

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“Innovative but rooted in tradition, American artisan cheese production is making great strides for-ward. Its quality and diversity are masterfully recorded in The Atlas of American Artisan Cheese.”

—Jacques Pépin, chef, cookbook author, and host of numerous PBS-TV cooking series

“The Atlas of American Artisan Cheese proves that there is a rich, thriving world of flavor, quality, andtradition abroad in the land. This enormous undertaking by cheese aficionado Jeffrey Roberts makesus feel proud of what can come from American soil, passion, and culture. Bravo to Jeffrey and all theAmerican artisan cheesemakers!” —Deborah Madison, author of Local Flavors:

Cooking and Eating from America’s Farmers Markets

“Chock-full of charming cheesemaker stories and explanations of the cheeses they make, The Atlas ofAmerican Artisan Cheese provides us with an indispensable road map to American cheeses and helpsus navigate the ever-growing collection made from California to Maine.” —Laura Werlin, author of

The New American Cheese

“Jeff Roberts has been a driving force in the movement to develop world-class artisan cheeses here inthe United States. In his new book, he shows us—farm by farm and cheese by cheese—why we havecause to celebrate. Roberts proves this movement has finally come of age.” —Rob Kaufelt, proprietor of

Murray’s Cheese and author of The Murray’s Cheese Handbook

$35 USD

CHELSEA GREEN PUBLISHINGWhite River Junction, Vermont

802-295-6300www.chelseagreen.comCover design by Peter Holm

Cover photo by Julie Cahn, Courtesy of Coach Farm, Inc.Author photo by Lizzari Photographic

ISBN 978-1-933392-34-9

9 7 8 1 9 3 3 3 9 2 3 4 9

5 3 5 0 0

The first reference of its kind, this fully illustrated atlas of contemporary artisan cheesesand cheesemakers will be the source of many a fabulous food adventure. Organized byregion and state, The Atlas of American Artisan Cheese highlights 345 of the best cheese-

makers in the United States today, most of them tiny, family-owned creameries. Each profiledescribes a cheesemaker; its history; its cheeses, whether from cow, sheep, or goat’s milk; avail-ability; location; details on cheese-making processes; and suggestions for the best wine and beerpairings. The Atlas captures America’s genius for local artisan cheese: a capacity for adaptation,experimentation, and innovation, while following Old World artisanship and traditional methods.

Jeff Roberts helped establish the Vermont Institute for Artisan Cheese at the Universityof Vermont. He is a national director with Slow Food USA and co-chaired “ArtisanCheeses of America” at Cheese 2001 and 2003 in Bra, Italy. He lives in Montpelier,Vermont. Carlo Petrini is the founder and president of the International Slow FoodMovement. Allison Hooper is president of the American Cheese Society.

3 4 5 TO P C H E E S E M AK E R S F R O M 4 3 S TAT E S !

If you live in Maine or are vacationingthere during the summer, a trip to aMidcoast farmers’ market will intro-

duce you to Caitlin Hunter. Sometimes accom-panied by husband Brad and daughter Fiona,she will soon have you appreciating her vari-eties of goat cheese. The creamery, located ona small family farm in Appleton, near Camden,makes handcrafted, award-winning cheeseusing traditional methods. In 1979, afterdeveloping an interest in dairy goats, Caitlinbecame one of Maine’s pioneer cheesemakers,and for fifteen years made cheese for homeconsumption. She points out that Maine’sworking landscape of scrubby pasture andwoodland is ideal for goats because they preferto browse on a wide variety of plants ratherthan grazing exclusively on grass. Licensed in1994, today she makes between 6,000 and7,000 pounds of various chèvre, most of whichis sold at local farmers’ markets and a fewretail outlets. In 2004, she inaugurated a lineof cheese made from a neighbor’s sheep’s milk.

Established: 1994Owners: Caitlin and BradHunterCheesemaker: Caitlin Hunter

Address: 780 Gurney TownRoad, Appleton, ME 04862

Telephone: UnlistedEmail: [email protected] site: www.appletoncreamery.comVisitors: By appointmentTypes: Farmstead, seasonal, pasteurized and

some raw American Alpine goat’s milk; somecow’s and sheep’s milk

Varieties of cheese:Goat• Chèvre. Fresh pasteurized cheese in

various-sized containers• Marinated chèvre. Fresh pasteurized;

marinated in olive oil, roasted garlic, andherbs; ACS

• Chèvre buttons in oil. Fresh pasteurizedmedallions in olive oil, rosemary, juniperberries, and hot peppers; ACS

• Sennebec. Fresh pasteurized chèvre withherbes de Provence

• Feta. Traditional, dense and salty; bothgoat’s and sheep’s milk

• Crofter’s Cheese. Aged two months;washed curd, semi-soft, creamy; 5 poundwheels; ACS

• Caprino di Vino. Aged two months; semi-firm, marinated in Maine blueberry wine; 5 pound wheel

Sheep• Scarborough Faire. Pasteurized fresh, with

fresh herbs• BreBrie. Pasteurized Brie-style; bloomy-

rind, creamy; 6 ounce round• Georges Highland. Aged three to four

months; semi-firm, buttery, nutty; 5 poundtomme

Cow• Knox Gold. Aged six months; dense, but-

tery; 25 pound wheel• Camdenbert. Pasteurized; bloomy-rind;

3 pound wheel• St. Bridget. Aged six to eight weeks;

pasteurized; 2 pound square• Granite Kiss. Fresh, pasteurized; bloomy-

rind, ash-coated; 6 ounce roundAwards: Numerous awards from the American

Cheese SocietyWhere to find: Numerous Maine farmers’

markets and mail order; distribution to Maine retailers

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NEW ENGLAND • Maine

APPLETON CREAMERY

01 Cheese Atlas pgs final 4/18/07 1:56 PM Page 15

16 Maine • NEW ENGLAND

APPLETON CREAMERY continued

One cold September Saturday, wandering through the CommonGround Fair in Union, Maine, we discovered Caitlin Hunter andAppleton Creamery. Specifically, we found chèvre buttons in oil, arevelation in taste for us and a cheese we look for whenever visitingMaine. These half-dollar-sized rounds are packed in good olive oil,rosemary, and hot pepper, all of which complement the rich,creamy cheese and challenge you to eat just one. They are terrificas an appetizer, an accompaniment to a green salad, or on a dessertplate. Or, better still, it’s a perfect cheese to eat while relaxing onsummer’s day with any of the following beverages. Serve with:Sparkling semi-dry cider• Sparkling dry Riesling • Pilsner or IndiaPale Ale


In 1990, Janet and Bill Butler acquiredtheir first dairy sheep to help supplymilk to Hollow Road Farm, the pre-

cursor to Old Chatham SheepherdingCompany in New York (see page 137). Janetworked at the creamery and gained valuableexperience that contributed to their successwhen they moved to western Wisconsin in1993. The 280-acre Butler Farm, locatedapproximately halfway between Madison andSt. Paul, Minnesota, was one of the firstlicensed sheep dairies in the country. In 1995,Janet and Bill began yogurt production, andtwo years later introduced a small group ofhandmade cheeses.

At one time they milked many more animals,made more cheese, and sold productsthroughout the region. Several years ago, theydecided to move to a seasonal operation andlimit sales to the Dane County farmers’ market,where they sell direct to customers. Janet con-tinues to refine her cheese and, after recentexperiments, added a soft ripened cow-sheepcheese that sells out at the market.

UPPER MIDWEST • Wisconsin 253

BUTLER FARMS

Established: 1995Owners and cheese-makers: Janet and BillButler

Address: W13184 Sjuggerud Road, Whitehall,WI 54773

Telephone: 715-983-2285Email: [email protected] site: NoneVisitors: By appointmentTypes: Farmstead, seasonal, pasteurized and

raw Dorset, Lacaune, and Tunis sheep’s milkand some cow’s milk

Varieties of cheese:• Brebis. Fresh; soft spread; 6 ounce con-

tainer• Brebis button. Fresh; soft, herb-flavored;

4 ounce button• Feta. Fresh; lightly salted; 4–6 ounce

squares• Ricotta. Fresh; whey-based curd; 6 ounce

container• Aged tomme. Aged two weeks; soft ripened

bloomy-rind; 5–6 ounce ovals, rounds, orsquares

• Aged cheese. Aged two months; rawsheep’s milk; 2 pound wheel

• Camembert. Aged two weeks; mixed cow’sand sheep’s milk, soft ripened bloomy-rind;5–6 ounce ovals, rounds, or squares

Where to find: Dane County farmers’ marketin Madison


What do you get when you blendattention to detail, a passion forsheep and herding dogs, ministry,

visionary ideals, and a commitment to quality?You discover the unique cheeses of SheriPalko and Tim Clark at Locust Grove Farm.For many years, Tim, a Baptist minister, raisedsheep, while Sheri, a software engineer, bredand competed with herding dogs. Their friend-ship and collaboration brought the best ofthese worlds together with an interest inmaking cheese using traditional methods. Thepartners emphasize how careful stewardship ofanimals and land is the foundation upon whichto create outstanding cheese. Tim spent time inScotland with Allen Brown, who makes asheep’s milk cheese called Cairnsmore. UsingMr. Brown’s recipe, Sheri and Tim makeGalloway Farmhouse Cheese, named in hishonor. Every step is done by hand, especiallyworking the curd, packing the hoops, and thecareful aging process. Using European models,they constructed an aging room to maintainconstant humidity and temperature andencourage native microflora development,which in turn creates another distinctive flavorcomponent.

220 Tennessee • THE SOUTH

LOCUST GROVE FARM

Established: 2006Owners and cheesemakers:Sheri Palko and Tim ClarkAddress: 500 Mountain BreezeLane, Knoxville, TN 37934

Telephone: 865-388-4123Email: [email protected];

[email protected] site: www.locustgrovefarm.netVisitors: By appointmentTypes: Farmstead, seasonal raw East Friesian

sheep’s milk and some pasteurized Jerseycow’s milk

Varieties of cheese:• Galloway’s Farmhouse Cheese. Aged three

to five months; natural rind, semi-hard,moist, buttery; 4–5 pound wheels

• Galloway’s Farmhouse Mélange. Aged threeto five months; blended cow’s and sheep’smilk, natural rind, semi-firm, complexflavor; 4–5 pound wheels

• Appalachian Spring. Aged two to fourmonths; washed curd, natural rind, semi-firm, smooth, nutty; 1.3 pound wheel

• Appalachian Spring Mélange. Aged two tofour months; washed curd, natural rind,semi-firm, smooth, buttery, nutty; 1.3 pound wheel

Where to find: On-premises retail, mail order,farmers’ markets, and local distribution


Joan and Pierre-Louis Monteillet makecheese on a 27-acre farm situated onthe Touchet River in the Walla Walla

Valley of southeastern Washington. In1978, Joan, who grew up in the state’s Palouseregion, met Frenchman Pierre-Louis inMexico; they shared an interest in farming,and for a year traveled the world to learn aboutagriculture. They returned to Washington, gotmarried, and took over the operation of a2,000-acre wheat ranch, owned by Joan’sfather. Subsequent travels to France helpedshape their vision for farming, and by 1996they were ready to move on. Further research,opportunities to make cheese in France, and adesire to farm sustainably led to their farm inDayton.

In 2002, after a year of construction andfinal permitting, they opened for business withgoat’s and sheep’s milk cheeses. Initially, theysold products at local farmers’ markets and toa growing number of excellent Walla WallaValley restaurants. Demand for their cheesegrew dramatically as people noticed their dis-tinctive qualities. In addition to some regionaldistribution, they currently attend the Portlandand Seattle farmers’ markets.

In the past twenty years, wheat growing hasdeclined in the region, and at least fiftywineries have opened to take advantage of thefavorable climate and soils. Joan and Pierre-Louis see these shifts as important changes toconventional agriculture and as opportunities

to connect good cheese and wine together inthe same place. They envision this blending ofeastern Washington terroir and French inspira-tion will result in exciting unique cheeses thatexpress new cultural tastes and flavors.

MONTEILLET FROMAGERIE

Established: 2002Owners and cheesemakers: Joan and Pierre-

Louis MonteilletAddress: 109 Ward Road, Dayton, WA 99328Telephone: 509-382-1917Email: NoneWeb site: www.montecheese.comVisitors: Yes; Saturday–Sunday, 1–5 pmTypes: Farmstead, seasonal, pasteurized and

raw French Alpine goat’s milk and cross-breed Friesian-Lacaune sheep’s milk

Varieties of cheese (partial list):Goat• Chèvre. Fresh; soft, mild, plain or herbs;

6 ounce container• Larzac. Aged two weeks; soft ripened, ash

layer, smooth, nutty; 6–8 ounce cylinders or10–12 ounce pyramids

• Cardabelle. Aged two weeks; soft ripenedbloomy-rind, rich, tangy; 4 ounce disk

Sheep• Mejean. Aged two weeks; soft ripened

bloomy-rind, soft, unctuous; 7 ounce round• Cardabelle. Aged two weeks; sheep’s milk

versionBlended pasteurized or raw milk• Causse Noir. Aged two to four months;

natural rind, creamy, dense, full-flavored;2–4 pound wheel

Where to find: Mail order, and Beaverton,Portland, and Seattle farmers’ markets


Everona Dairy is located in the village ofthe same name in Virginia’s Piedmont,northeast of Charlottesville. Pat Elliott,

a physician, has lived and practiced in thecommunity for many years. In 1992, shebought a Border Collie and then purchasedsome sheep, so the dog would have somethingto do. The sheep, in turn, opened the door toPat’s cheesemaking, and since 1998 she hasproduced some of the country’s best sheepcheese. For many years, she made cheese con-currently with her medical practice, which ishoused in a separate building on the farm.Managing sheep and making cheese is a majorcommitment; coupled with a medical practice,it seems unimaginable!

178 Virginia • MID-ATLANTIC

EVERONA DAIRY

Established: 1998Owner and cheese-maker: Pat Elliott

Address: 23246 ClarksMountain Road,

Rapidan, VA 22733Telephone: 540-854-4159Email: [email protected] site: www.everonadairy.comVisitors: By appointmentTypes: Farmstead, seasonal, raw East Friesian

sheep’s milkVarieties of cheese:

• Piedmont. Aged two to ten months; naturalrind, firm, nutty, buttery; 1.5 and 6 poundwheels; also cracked pepper and other flavors; ACS

• Stony Man. Aged three to ten months; natural rind, hard, dry, nutty, caramel; 6 pound wheel

• Pride of Bacchus. Aged two to ten months;natural rind soaked in red wine, fruity; 6 pound wheel

Awards: 2005 American Cheese Society, FirstPlace

Where to find: Local farmers’ markets andselected retailers nationwide

For four hundred years, farmers from Thomas Jefferson to contemporary growers have recognized the dis-tinctive qualities of Virginia’s Piedmont. Today, cheesemakers are capturing the region’s terroir in theirproducts. Everona Dairy describes how the limestone ridge, red Piedmont soil, abundant water, and tem-perate climate contribute to lush grasses and other plants—just the menu for great sheep’s milk.Everona’s Piedmont is truly a hands-on effort, since the dairy uses a 20-gallon vat to make all of itscheeses, often several times a day. They ladle curds into molds that impart a distinctive knobby pattern tothe rind. During the six-month maturation period, the rind turns a rich brown color, while the pastedevelops a beautiful golden-brown hue with aromas of grass and herbs, and complex flavors of nuts andbutter. Serve with: Still hard cider • Sauvignon Blanc or Riesling wine • Pilsner or India Pale Ale

01 Cheese Atlas pgs final 11/6/07 8:49 AM Page 178

166 Pennsylvania • MID-ATLANTIC

The Fisher family—John, Lena, andtheir six children—are Old OrderAmish farmers in Newburg, a small

town west of Carlisle. Otterbein Acres is a 96-acre sheep and cow farm and dairy. Their son,Paul, lives a mile away, and they buy all theirmilk from his nine Jersey cows. Since they useno electricity, John designed a mechanicalcarousel to milk approximately forty ewes; alltheir sheep milk and Paul’s Jersey milk goesinto the vat to make cheese. Daughter Katie isthe principal cheesemaker, supported by Lenaand John. They rely on hand labor—stirring,cutting curd, and packing hoops—to makeeach cheese; the wheels then mature onwooded planks in an underground cellar.

The conveniences so common to the rest ofAmerica are not part of Old Order Amish his-tory and contemporary life. The Amish andMennonite rejection of technology may repre-sent the closest expression of what “tradi-tional” means in American cheese history.Without reliance on machinery or the latesttechnology, they make cheese within a well-established framework of handwork, attentionto land and animals, craftsmanship, and intu-ition. And yet, avoidance of the modern doesnot mean a rejection of knowledge. Forexample, the Fishers attended cheesemakingclasses taught by Kathy Biss, a well-respectedEnglish consultant and teacher. They nowmake traditional English-style Cheddar,wrapped in muslin, coated with lard, and aged

to a delightful maturity. Their Manchego, madewith sheep’s and cow’s milks, reflects anunderstanding and appreciation for how greatmilk leads to distinctive cheese.

OTTERBEIN ACRES

Established: 2005Owner: Lena and John FisherCheesemaker: Katie FisherAddress: 10071 Otterbein Church Road,

Newburg, PA 17240Telephone: 717-423-6689Email: NoneWeb site: NoneVisitors: Yes; Monday–Friday, 7 am–8 pm;

Saturday, 7 am–5 pm; closed SundayTypes: Farmstead, seasonal raw East Friesian,

Dorset, and Romanov crossbreed sheep’smilk and some Jersey cow’s milk

Varieties of cheese:Sheep• Ewe’s Dream. Aged two to four months;

semi-firm; 2 pound wheel• Ricotta. Fresh; whey-based curdsCow• Cheddar. Aged four months; bandage- and

lard-wrapped, firm, complex flavor; 2 poundwheel

• Gouda. Aged four months; washed curd;waxed 3 pound wheel

Cow and sheep• Manchego. Aged five months; waxed;

2 pound wheelWhere to find: On-premises retail and local

stores

01 Cheese Atlas pgs final 11/20/07 7:46 AM Page 166

Although Ann and Bob Works are fromMinnesota, for generations his familyfarmed along the Connecticut River

in Vermont and New Hampshire. For yearsthey lived outside New York City; Bob’s com-pany managed the renovations of GrandCentral Station. Arriving in Vermont in 1998and wanting to create a “totally unique foodexperience,” they bought the former OldMorgan Horse Farm and transformed it into amodern sheep dairy and cheesemaking facility.After apprenticing with Cindy and DavidMajor, they started production of VermontShepherd cheese. A few years ago, in additionto the cheese made for Vermont Shepherd, theyadded their own varieties and diversified thefarm’s products. Today, their annual produc-tion is approximately 6,000 pounds, and farmvisitors may enjoy cheese, bread from a smallartisan bakery, lamb and pork meat andsausage, maple syrup, and blueberry scones.They use the cheese whey to fertilize thebushes and to feed the pigs!

NEW ENGLAND • Vermont 81

PEAKED MOUNTAIN FARM

Established: 1999Owners and cheesemakers:Ann and Bob WorksAddress: 1541 Peaked

Mountain Road, Townshend,VT 05353

Telephone: 802-365-4502Email: [email protected] site: www.vtcheese.comVisitors: By appointmentTypes: Farmstead, seasonal, pasteurized and

raw East Friesian sheep and some cow’s andgoat’s milks

Varieties of cheese:• Bo-Peep. Pasteurized, fresh; Camembert-

style; bloomy-rind; creamy; 6 ounce round• Vermont Dandy. Aged four to twelve

months; natural rind; semi-hard, buttery;6–8 pound wheel

• Woodpeckerino. Aged eight months; nat-ural rind; hard, Italian pecorino-style; 6–8 pound wheel

• Feta. Aged twelve months; marinated inolive oil with rosemary, garlic, bay leaf,black peppercorns, sun-dried tomatoes, and juniper berries

• Vermont Maiden. Aged six to nine months;50 percent sheep’s milk/50 percent goat’smilk; natural rind; 2–5 pound round

• Ewe–Jersey. Aged three to nine months; 50 percent sheep’s milk/50 percent cow’smilk; natural rind; 7–9 pound wheel

Where to find: On-premises retail, Brattleborofarmers’ market and Co-op, and selectedretailers in Boston, New York, and San Diego

continued next page


82 Vermont • NEW ENGLAND

PEAKED MOUNTAIN FARM continued

Ann and Bob Works like to experiment with their cheese, constantly searching for ways to capture thefarm’s terroir in their products. Their sheep eat lush grass flavored with wild mint, thyme, and otherherbs and spring flowers. Several years ago, they developed Ewe–Jersey, a mixed-milk cheese madewith equal amounts of sheep’s and cow’s milk. The cheese is complex, sweet, and nutty with notice-able herbal tones. Serve with: Semi-dry still cider • Medium-bodied California Meritage blend • Amberor brown ale


Shepherd’s Way Farms, owned by Jodiand Steven Read, is a place ofachievement, triumph, tragedy,

spirit, good stewardship, and great taste. In1994, they bought forty ewes for their farm,which is located about 50 miles south ofMinneapolis. Steven developed an interest insheep while attending the University ofMinnesota; the couple thought they would milkthe sheep and sell the milk. An abundance ofmilk, however, caused them to look for otheroptions. The university’s Ray Miller hadhelped to establish that institution’s sheepcheese program, and he provided valuableassistance in creating the recipe for Friesago (aname that combines Friesian sheep and Asiagocheese). The success of Friesago led to addi-tional cheeses and an ever-expanding flock ofsheep, at one point numbering five hundred,making Shepherd’s Way the second-largestsheep dairy in the United States.

continued next page

UPPER MIDWEST • Minnesota 241

SHEPHERD’S WAY FARMS

Established: 1994Owners and cheesemakers: Jodi Ohlsen Read

and Steven ReadAddress: 8626 160th Street East, Nerstrand,

MN 55053Telephone: 507-663-9040Email: [email protected] site: www.shepherdswayfarms.comVisitors: Yes; Saturday, 9 am–12 pm or by

appointmentTypes: Farmstead, seasonal, pasteurized and

raw East Friesian sheep’s milkVarieties of cheese:

• Friesago. Aged four to six months; semi-hard, rich, nutty; waxed 10–12 poundwheels; ACS

• Friesago Reserve. Aged twelve months;washed-rind, rubbed with olive oil, firm,full, piquant flavor; 10–11 pound wheels

• Big Woods Blue. Aged four to six months;natural rind, creamy, deep veining, complexflavors; ACS

• Shepherd’s Hope. Fresh; pasteurized milk,light, plain and herb-garlic; 3–4 poundwheels; ACS

Awards: Numerous American Cheese Societyprizes

Where to find: Minneapolis–St. Paul metroregion and limited national distribution


The Reads recognized that outstandingcheese is a product of well-managed pastures,careful attention to animals, an understandingof cheesemaking, and artistry. They succeededwith all these elements, setting a standard ofexcellence while remaining committed to cre-ating a product that people could easily afford.Sadly, one cold night in January 2005, a firedestroyed a nursery building and killed twohundred lambs and three hundred ewes; the

fire is still under investigation as possiblearson. And although their insurance claim wasnot resolved as of fall 2006, an outpouring ofsupport, money, time, and hard work havehelped bolster them. From local people to theUniversity of Minnesota’s College of VeterinaryMedicine to the American Cheese Society,Slow Food USA chapters and cheese lovers,help has flowed in. In late 2006, Jodi and Stevewere looking for investor support.

242 Minnesota • UPPER MIDWEST

SHEPHERD’S WAY FARMS continued

Additional Minnesota CheesemakersPOPLAR HILL DAIRY GOAT FARMVincent Maefsky12521 Mayberry Trail NorthScandia, MN 55073651-433-2684www.poplarhillfarm.comGoat cheese.

PRAIRIE HOLLOW FARMPamela and David Benike15211 14th Street NEDover, MN 55929507-932-4352Farmstead cow’s milk cheese.

Shepherd’s Hope cheese reflects the Reads’tragedy in 2005. Shepherd’s Way has managed tokeep making cheese, although at lower productionlevels. In a triumph of human spirit, determination,and sheer will, they made cheese throughout 2006and submitted a few wheels to the annualAmerican Cheese Society competition. Their BigWoods Blue, a favorite of blue lovers, received aFirst Place award—a tribute to great animals, lovingcare and husbandry, and excellent skill in thecheesemaking. The cheese is pure white with well-defined blue veins, very creamy, and piquant with alingering warm, clean aftertaste. Find a wedge ofBig Woods Blue, the name of a local park belovedby the Read children, and celebrate this Minnesotafarm family and the strength of Shepherd’s WayFarm. Serve with: Still semi-sweet cider • Late-har-vest Gewürztraminer • Double ale or Belgian-style ale


Cindy Major, the daughter of the ownerof Oakhurst Dairy, grew up learningabout and consuming good dairy prod-

ucts. David was born on this farm and, afterreceiving a degree from Harvard, returned toPutney. Opened in 1990, Vermont Shepherdbegan inauspiciously, making cheese theowners describe as “sawdust.” They journeyedto the French Pyrenees, where they learned tomake brebis, a typical Basque mountain sheepcheese, from the families of Luxi and ArnoOxanbarritz and Ferdinand Pujalet. And theylearned very well. Since 1993, VermontShepherd has produced one of America’s bestcheeses. The Majors were the first in Vermontto construct a natural cave, which they duginto a sheltered hillside on the farm, to maturetheir cheese.

During the mid- to late 1990s, manyprospective cheesemakers apprenticed withthe Majors as part of their Dairy SheepEducation Center. For a period of time, theseindividuals—Mary Beth and Frankie Whitten,Willow Smart, Ann and Bob Works, Gari andMark Fischer, and Neil Urie—made cheese forVermont Shepherd. Over the last few years,these onetime apprentices have establishednew businesses and today make their ownexcellent sheep cheese. They are truly a testi-mony to Cindy and David’s vision, commitmentto quality, and distinctive taste. In 2006, Cindyleft Vermont Shepherd for other pursuits, whileDavid and new partner Yesenia Ielpi continueto make this American original.

94 Vermont • NEW ENGLAND

VERMONT SHEPHERD

Established: 1990Owners: David Major andYesenia IelpiCheesemaker: David MajorAddress: 875 Patch Road,Putney, VT 05346

Telephone: 802-387-4473Email: [email protected] site: www.vermontshepherd.comVisitors: No; a self-service cheese farmstand is

open dailyTypes: Farmstead, seasonal raw Dorset,

Friesian, and Tunis sheep’s milkVarieties of cheese:

• Vermont Shepherd. Aged three to sixmonths; natural rind, semi-firm; 8 poundwheel; ACS & USCCC

Awards: Numerous prizes from U.S.Championship Cheese Contest andAmerican Cheese Society including a 2000American Cheese Society “Best in Show”award

Where to find: On-premises cheese stand, mailorder, and distributed nationwide, primarilythrough specialty cheese stores


Vermont Shepherd is made only from mid-April toOctober, when the sheep graze on fresh grasses andwild herbs. Every other day, an affineur turns andbrushes each 7–9 pound wheel as it ages for four toeight months on wooden shelves in a hillside cavebuilt in 1996. A mature Vermont Shepherd wheel hasa beautiful golden-brown, rustic, natural rind, and thecheese itself has a smooth, creamy texture. The flavoris sweet, rich, and earthy with hints of clover, wildmint, and thyme. A very mature wheel develops afirm, hard texture, like Parmigiano-Reggiano, withsimilar flavor characteristics of caramel and fruit.Serve with: Semi-dry sparkling hard cider • Grenacheor Riesling • Dobbelbock or Lambic-style fruit beer

NEW ENGLAND • Vermont 95


Although New Jersey has only ahandful of small-scale cheese pro-ducers, the state can lay claim to

some of America’s most innovative artisans.Eran and Debra Wajswol certainly fit thisdescription. Their vacations in Europe becamepenetrating introductions to the continent’samazing cheese varieties and motivated them tomake sheep cheese. In 1995, they openedFarmersville Cheeses in Hunterdon County inthe northwest part of the state. Customers soondiscovered their unique, traditionally basedsheep cheeses, and demand soared. In 2005,they moved 5 miles north to a 120-acre farm inLong Valley. Here they built a remarkableunderground cave by blasting 150 feet into ahillside. Located 16–20 feet underground, thevaulted cave measures 100 feet by 25 feet, andhas separate rooms for aging hard, blue, softripened, and other cheeses! It even has aviewing room for visitors to help educate themabout traditional practices, stewardship, andtaste.

VALLEY SHEPHERD CREAMERY

Established: 1995Owners and cheese-makers: Eran andDebra Wajswol

Address: 50 FairmountRoad, Long Valley, NJ 07853

Telephone: 908-876-3200Email: [email protected] site: www.valleyshepherd.comVisitors: Yes; Thursday–Saturday, 10 am–5 pm;

Sunday 11 am–5 pmTypes: Farmstead, seasonal, raw East Friesian

sheep’s milk and Jersey cow’s milk cheeseVarieties of cheese (partial list):

Sheep’s milk• Oldwick Shepherd. Aged three months;

thin, natural rind, smooth, earthy, fruity flavors; 5 pound wheel

• Shepherd’s Basket. Aged four to fivemonths; natural rind with basket indenta-tions; sharp, tangy; 5 pound wheel

• Ancient Shepherd. Aged twelve months;crusty natural rind, crumbly texture, deepflavor; 4 pound wheel

• Smokey Shepherd. Aged eight to fourteenmonths; brown sticky rind smoked overapple wood; 4 pound wheel

• Babaloo. Aged three months; sheep’s ormixed milk, robust blue; 4 pound wheel

• Tartuffo Shepherd. Aged three months withblack Tuscan summer truffles; strong earthymushroom aroma and flavor; 5 pound wheel

Mixed sheep’s and cow’s milk• Califon Tomme. Aged five to eight months;

natural rind, creamy, tangy; 12–30 poundwheels

• Nettlesome. Aged five to eight months withnettles; 12 pound wheel

• Carameaway. Aged five to eight monthswith caraway; 12 pound wheel

• Fairmount. Aged nine to fifteen months;natural rind, hard, smooth, dense, complexflavor; 14–16 pound wheels

• Valley Thunder. Aged five to seven months;natural rind, hard, sharp; 13 pound wheel

• Scent-sation. Aged four months, washed-rind, soft body, strong aroma and flavor

• Crème and Quark Series. Handmade, tradi-tional fresh cream cheeses

• Ricotta Series. Fresh, sheep’s or cow-sheepmixed whey; 1 pound container

• Jersey Fresh Mixte. Pasteurized semi-hardcheese made and sold within twelve hoursof milking

Where to find: On-premises retail, New YorkCity and New Jersey farmers’ markets, andregional and national distribution

While the Wajswols make more than a dozencheeses, each handmade batch is a “limitededition.” As a seasonal dairy, they makecheese from May until late fall and then agethe wheels, with most becoming available thefollowing year. And when they arrive, they sellout quickly. Their Oldwick Shepherd, madewith sheep’s milk, is a mold-ripened firmcheese with a pebbly-textured rind, smoothpaste, and complex aromas and flavors ofmilk, caramel, nuts, and mushrooms. Theymake only twelve wheels at a time, and eachbatch of cheese reflects different seasonalpasture plants, daily weather changes, andother factors. These slight variations add to itsdistinctive, high-quality presence. Serve with:Semi-dry still cider • Zinfandel or medium-bodied Syrah • Brown or red ale


Documents

10 Sheep's Milk Cheeses, An Excerpt from The Atlas of American Artisan Cheese