1 Family Highlights of the Balearics

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Even though you’re only reading the first line of this book, youprobably already know plenty about the Balearic Islands. So

does your neighbour. And your boss, your brother and your postman.There’s the high-rise hotels, the sunkissed strips of sandy beach. Thechild-friendly villas, the English cuisine and the charter flights. Thebanana boats, the glass-bottomed cruises and the tourist buses. Andyou’re all right, partly. You’ll certainly find each and every one of thoseon a family trip here, if you know where to look. But if you thinkthat’s all you’ll find, think again. Or even better, read on.

The Balearics pretty much invented the package holiday – it stillthrives at key resorts, and has much to offer family travellers. Butindependent travel to the islands has become much easier, too. Duringthe summer months, Mallorca, Ibiza and Menorca are well served bylow-cost airlines. Formentera’s just a short onward hop by ferry. It’s alljust far enough away to guarantee sun from May to October; justclose enough to make the flight bearable with toddlers. Know where tosearch and you can find your own accommodation quicker than ever.There’s no need to stay in high-rise hotels if you don’t want to: self-catering options are unending, apartments, villas, farmhouses, what-ever you like. Sort out some transport for your stay, and you’re off.

While the sun and sand may be what attracts you in the first place,a closer look while you’re here reveals much more. Don’t be put off bya handful of infamous resorts on Mallorca and Ibiza. These are justone tiny side of these multi-faceted islands, easily avoided once youknow where they are, and when not to visit. Take a walk in Mallorca’smountains, or through the cobbled streets of Sóller, or in towns whereyou’ll hardly hear Spanish spoken, never mind English, and youcouldn’t feel further from Magaluf. On Ibiza, tiny whitewashed vil-lages littering the island’s interior mark a sharp contrast with its fameas a clubbers’ haven. Menorca’s prehistoric and military heritage is aconstant reminder that tourism is still a relatively new developmenthere, and in fact has barely stained Menorca at all. And Formentera islittle more than one giant sand dune: hire some bikes and you’ll findall sorts of fun within a few miles of its tiny port.

For all the compromises these islands have made to tourism (not allof them bad), it’s still refreshing to travel inland and see that muchremains unaffected, whether it’s the almond harvest in Mallorca,Ibiza’s hippy markets or dairy farming in Menorca. Throw in somecobble-stoned hill towns, the odd rural frustration, a great place foryou and the kids to stay in, and, yes, a spin on those banana boats,and you have the makings of a great family holiday. Enjoy!

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BALEARIC FAMILYHIGHLIGHTS

The Best Beaches You’rehardly short of choice onFormentera, but a trip to theisland isn’t complete withoutwalking the A-list strip of sugarysand at Platja de Ses Illetes. It’sthe place you’d take a Martianwho wanted to know what a perfect beach should look like.See p. 248.

Mallorca’s best beach requiresa boat ride from Port de Sóller:Sa Calobra. It’s the stuff ofmovies, with towering granitecliffs, sparkling turquoise waterand bottle-green umbrella pinesproviding pockets of shade forthose who get here early. If allyour kids want to do is messabout on the water, this is atreasure island. See p. 76.

Son Bou is Menorca’s longestbeach, and even on the hottest

Alongside Spanish, Catalan is the second official language of theBalearic Islands. Its use is widespread – particularly in governmentoffices, in schools and on road signs. In smaller towns and villages, itthrives. Spanish tends to dominate in cities and resorts, however, asmany Spaniards travel to the Balearics from the mainland to work duringthe summer season.

There are few islanders who will actually describe their local languageas Catalan, though – for fear of Barcelona claiming the islands as part oftheir vision of a Catalan Country. So expect to hear it described as mal-lorquin, menorquin and eivissenc. Those who have studied French mayfind many Catalan words familiar, and with a good knowledge of bothFrench and Spanish, you can often piece together a conversation.

Each island has developed its own dialect, and many unique words.Menorca is a special case. As the British dominated the island for thebest part of the 18th century, several local words reflect that influence,like xoc (chalk), mèrvils (marbles) and, most famously, gin.

An attempt to speak in Catalan will be highly appreciated, even if it isjust a brief greeting in a shop or bar. Here are a few words you maycome across:

Bon dia – good morning Gelat – ice creamBenvinguts – welcome Formatge – cheeseGràcies – thank you Peix – fishSi us plau – please Carn – meatDe res – you’re welcome Vi – wineAdéu – goodbye Aigua – waterPlatja – beach Llet – milkAjuntament – town hall A poc a poc – little by little

Bilingual Balearics: Chatting in Catalan

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summer day, if you walk westwards away from the barsand activities, you’re still guaran-teed a patch of sand all to your-selves. See p. 166.

The Best Markets There maynot be many hippies left, but thehippy markets around SantaEulària des Riu on Ibiza are stillgoing strong 30 years on. Theincense and the kaftans youprobably expect; the fine craftsand kiddie crèches might comeas a surprise. See p. 217.

You can’t leave Formentera inthe summer without stopping atLa Fira de la Mola, the tinyisland’s unique market. Your kidswill love the place, particularlythe central plaza where a 60-something hippy sits on a high-stool playing the slide guitar. Seep. 247.

For hand-made toys, jewellery,pottery and trinkets on Menorca,Maó’s artesan market onFridays during July and Augustmay be small, but it is well worthstrolling through. See p. 163.

Sineu’s Wednesday marketis one of the oldest on Mallorca,with a long tradition as a meet-ing point for the campesinos ofEs Pla. It’s also become some-thing of an attraction, with giftsand souvenirs, from hand-madepottery and herb-infused olives,to artesan cheeses and colourfulstrings of peppers. See p. 142.

The Best Nature ReservesThere is nowhere quite likeIbiza’s Ses Salines NatureReserve. The bleached salt hillsand pink pools make for anunreal landscape. Migratingflamingos and herons rest herefrom July to October, andFebruary to May, so pack thebinoculars and rent some bikes.See p. 213.

When Menorca was declareda Biosphere Reserve in 1993, the2000 hectares of marsh, dunesand headland at S’Albufera d’EsGrau was designated its core.Over 100 bird species can besighted, or just follow the naturetrails to hunt for animal foot-prints. There are even pushchair-friendly walkways. See p. 167.

The Best Animal AttractionsTop billing goes to the brandnew Palma Aquarium. Aniconic building, it draws visitorsacross shimmering pools,through tropical rock gardensand beneath waterfalls as a back-drop to its incredible diversity ofaquatic life, including giant sun-fish and white-tipped sharks. It’sperhaps the finest animal king-dom in all of Spain. See p. 55.

Not quite in the same league,but you can’t leave Menorca

At the Beach, Menorca

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without taking the kids to meetthe red cows at Lloc deMenorca. See p. 167.

If you prefer your nature abit wilder, Cabrera NationalPark is a Galapagos in the Med.If you’re really lucky, you mighteven spot Audouin’s gull andEleanor’s falcon. The childrenwill love the boat trip to getthere, too. See p. 124.

The Best Cities The BalearicIslands’ capital, and their onlyreal city – Palma – is an unlikelybut great spot for a fun-filledfamily weekend. From chi-chishopping to stunning architec-ture, and getting pleasantly lostin the twisting cobbled streets,there’s plenty to keep everyonehappy. See p. 43.

Don’t miss the views fromIbiza’s old town, the Vila Dalt.Declared a UNESCO WorldHeritage site in 1999, it’s a livingtestament to battles, defeats andconquests of the island’s 1000-year history. See p. 43.

The Best Adventures onWater If you want your childrento learn to windsurf, kayak orsail, the Escuela Municipal deVela on Formentera is one of thevery best places in Spain. Runwith passion by a formerOlympic windsurfing instructor,the school has produced a num-ber of Spanish and international

Palma Cathedral

Platja de ses Illetes

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champions – but prices remainreasonable. See p. 243.

In Menorca, renting a canoefrom Es Grau beach is acheaper, slightly more genteel,way to get out and about on thewater. The shallows of Es Grau’senclosed bay means that even little ones are safe in their lifejackets. See p. 166.

While for many parentswaterparks can be a trial,Aqualand, near Magaluf inMallorca, is a cut above the rest,continually renewing itselfwith ever wilder and more won-derful rides to keep little onesquiet. Even teens will return inawe of the Tornado and theBoomerang. See p. 62.

The Best Train Ride Okay, it’spretty much the only train rideon the islands, but the littlewooden train that bores throughthe Tramuntana, from Palma toSóller, is a real family highlight.See p. 74.

The Best Sunsets The 14thcentury Castell de Bellver holds

a lofty spot above the bay ofPalma, flanked on either side bypine woods and framed to thewest by the hazy outline of theTramuntana. It’s a magnificentsight, and has the most spectacu-lar view of the city below. See p. 54.

For a bird’s eye view ofMenorca at the end of the day,drive up to Monte Toro to watchthe sun go down. It’s a privilege

Wooden Train to Sóller

Castell de Bellver

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to see the fields, towns and waterin Fornells’ bay gradually changecolour as the giant orb meltsinto the water. See p. 179.

The Best Active Fun The flatterrain around Ciutadella,makes for perfect cycling, evenwith little children in tow. Fromthe town centre, it’s an easy ridethrough fields bordered by dry-stone walls down to isolatedbeaches. Several of Menorca’sprehistoric sites are also withinreach. See p. 159.

There’s no shortage of fantas-tic dive schools on the islands,but Ibiza’s Punta Dive is perhapsthe best. It offers dive sites for alllevels, and ‘Bubblemakers’courses to get young kids inter-ested. The adjacent beach is awinter kite-surfing mecca, too.See p. 220.

The Best Museums A museumwith exhibits indoors and out,Menorca’s Ecomuseu de Capde Cavalleria brings its interioralive by linking it to the sur-rounding countryside. Childrenwill be especially intrigued bythe Roman city of Sanisera thatwas swallowed up by the sea. Seep. 183.

This long-overdue RobertGraves Museum, a tribute tothe poet who put Deià on themap, was finally opened in July2006. It’s an absolute must foranyone who wants to under-stand Mallorca’s artistic appeal.See p. 79.

You can’t miss the fake castleon the Palma–Manacor road:Vidrierias Gordiola, a glassmak-ing factory that’s been in the

same family since the 18th cen-tury. Watching craftsmen blowbubbles from molten glass is ajaw-dropping experience for lit-tle ones, especially when you tellthem that the fires are as hot asvolcanoes. See p. 141.

The Best Buildings Built toprotect Menorca from an attackthat never happened, the oldmilitary fortress on La Mola atthe mouth of Maó’s portimpresses with its rock-solidconstruction above and belowground level. The guided tourwill keep family members of allages entertained, with stops attunnels, gloomy prisons andimmense British cannons. Seep. 168.

Valldemossa’s magnificentsandstone Carthusian monastery,the Real Cartuja de Jesús deNazaret, dates back to the 17thcentury, and still presides regallyover this sleepy hill town. Thesedays, it provides children with awonderland for exploration. See p. 77.

Off the Beaten Track

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No trip to Mallorca is comp-lete without taking in theCatedral de Palma. This mag-nificent pile, converted from amosque in 1229, is one of themost extravagant Gothic cathe-drals in the world. See p. 52.

The Best Family Walks TheParc Natural de Mondragó, nearSantanyí, is one of Mallorca’sbest-kept secrets. Finding yourperfect patch of sand means awalk through pine trees andsand dunes, dodging baskinglizards and chirruping birds, anddrinking in stunning views alongthe way. Take picnic fodder, sun-screen and some shade, and finda secluded spot in the dunes fora long, lazy day out. See p. 108.

Menorca’s perimeter path, theCamí de Cavalls, is graduallybeing opened up to the public.The walk along low-level cliffsbetween Punta Prima andS’Algar takes you past a restoreddefence tower perched on a keylookout point. See p. 173.

With older children whodon’t mind a 4–5-hour hike, alovely way to take in southernMallorca’s wild places is on footfrom the lighthouse at Cap deSes Salines to Còlonia de SantJordi. There are a couple of virgin beaches, and plenty ofscrambling over rocks. Seep. 126.

The Best Fiestas Alcúdia’sFiesta de Les Llanternes on24th August is designed with totsin mind. The town’s littlest chil-dren parade through the streetsat night carrying lanterns madefrom melons, singing traditional

folk songs. It’s one of the cutestsights in Spain. See p. 91.

To close Menorca’s summer-long party season, Maó holds a three-day fiesta in earlySeptember. It ends with a bang:two nights of fabulous under-water fireworks. See p. 161.

The annual RegataInternacional ‘Bahia de CalaMillor’ takes place during the lastfive days of October. It attractshot-air balloon aficionados fromall over Europe, the US andAfrica, filling the sky aboveMallorca’s east coast with colour.See p. 107.

The Best Caves The Cuevasdel Drach is hands-down one ofMallorca’s top sights. It’s a mys-terious underground labyrinth ofstalactites and stalagmites, drip-ping from the ceiling and risingfrom the floor like great waxsculptures. Your kids will spot aBuddha, fairies, witches andwarlocks, all in the rocks aroundthem. As mesmerising as any-thing Disney imagined. Seep. 109.

Though it morphs into anightclub after dark, Menorca’sCova d’en Xoroi is not to bemissed during the day. Or evenbetter, find a perch on its terracesto watch the sunset. See p. 167.

One of Ibiza’s must-sees, theold smugglers’ Cova de CanMarçà is over 100,000 years old.Your children will sense themagic right away. See p. 225.

The Best Art Stop For buddingpainters in the family, no courseof study is complete without apeek into the world of Pablo

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Picasso. At Palma’s Es Baluard,you can enjoy his works along-side that of his friend and con-temporary, Joan Miró, who livedon Mallorca until his death in1983. The architecture of theplace is a highlight in itself. Seep. 56.

The Best Attractions for FreeSwap flip-flops for trainers, andexplore the pine gorge betweenEs Migjorn Gran and Binigausbeach, Menorca to discover theCova des Coloms. The caveitself is an incredible 24 metreshigh, so it’s no surprise thatlocals nickname it ‘the cathe-dral’. See p. 181.

On a smaller scale, in Sóller,you can enjoy works bequeathedto the town by Joan Miró andPablo Picasso for free at the trainstation above Plaça Constitució.See p. 75.

Kids love nothing more thana spook or a ghoul, and the col-lection of benign ‘demons’ at theMuseu de Sant Antoni I el

Dimoni in Sa Pobla is one ofMallorca’s underrated attrac-tions. See p. 96.

The Best Shops Menorca isinternationally renowned fordesigner footware, and leadinglabels Jaime Mascaró and PonsQuintana both have factory shopson the island. Grab yourself a bargain. See p. 186 and 187.

Joyas Forteza in Palma mayjust be the place to buy your littledarling her first string of pearls.Specialists in typical Mallorquínjewellery, they stock a wide rangeof Mallorcan grey pearls, as wellas diamonds and other preciousstones. See p. 60.

THE BESTACCOMMODATION

The Best Hotels for FamiliesIn Menorca, Punta Prima’sInsotel Hotel and Apartmentsare a haven for family holidays.With pools, tennis courts, bikesfor hire and the beach just a cou-ple of minutes away, you couldeasily spend your break withoutleaving the resort. The rooms arespacious, with satellite TVs, andthere are babysitters on hand ifMum and Dad need a night outon their own. See p. 188.

Just outside the pretty villageof Porreras in Mallorca’s quietinterior, Can Feliu is an oldfarmhouse with tasteful rooms,as well as a working organicfarm. You can pick fruit straightfrom the tree for your breakfast,and enjoy the other farm pro-duce during your stay – you can

Old Wooden Door

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even roll up your sleeves andmuck in. There are bikes for hireand a secret Wendy house hid-den in the trees. See p. 143.

The Best Family BoutiqueHotels In fact, few of theislands’ stylish hotels are suitedto children, but Ibiza’s clifftopHacienda Na Xamena is a bitdifferent. The interiors are eclec-tically fitted with Indian andAsian artifacts, and the terracehas some of the best views in theMed. Best of all, it’s a bargain forwhat you get. See p. 226.

You’ve got to love a townwhere even the trendiest boutiqueaccommodation welcomes thekiddies with open arms: Palma’sHotel San Lorenzo certainly fitsthe bill in the style department. Aconverted 17th century townhouse in the old quarter, its bestfeatures include a Parisian Art-Deco bar, and an oasis-like swim-ming pool surrounded by lushplant life. It doesn’t come cheap,of course. See p. 63.

The Best Self-cateringAccommodation Menorca’sSon Bou Gardens have well-equipped apartments in a perfectsetting for children. They canplay in ample gardens while youkeep a watchful eye from yourterrace. There are pools andrestaurants nearby, as well aswater slides, a giant maze andtennis courts, all within thecomplex. See p. 192.

Astbury Formentera havebeen in business for 25 yearsrenting islanders’ bungalows, villas and apartments from thebeginning of April to the end of

October. Having your own placeeases the stress of hostal-dictatedlife and enables you to move atyour own island pace, in a placewhich soon feels like home. Seep. 251.

The Best Setting The spectacu-lar, windswept Sa Duaia feelslike the edge of the world, aremote and untouched corner ofMallorca surrounded by umbermountains and rippling wildgrasses. It has a decent-sizedswimming pool, with wild andromantic terraces that could havebeen plucked from the Arizonadesert. Book early: it’s small andgreat value. See p. 99.

The Best Country RetreatLocated in a 17th century mill-house, the renovation at SonMas, close to Mallorca’s eastcoast, is sympathetic and taste-ful, opening up the building tolet in natural light while preserv-ing original features. It’s a home-from-home for anyone lookingfor something a little special –and your kids are very welcome.See p. 114.

THE BEST EATINGOPTIONS

The Most Child-friendlyRestaurants In Menorca, you’dbe hard pushed to find a betterfamily eatery than Cala enPorter’s La Salamandra. With agreat-value set menu, a nearbyplayground and tortoises livingin the flowerbeds, your childrenwill love it. See p. 197.

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Practically an Ibiza institu-tion, don’t miss a trip to Daffersin Cala Sant Vincent. With itscavernous interior strung withMoroccan lanterns and intimatenooks, it’s a cut above the localplastic places – and it makes achange to go somewhere wherethe children’s choice is as wide asthe adults’. See p. 222.

The Best Seafood It’s certainlynot cheap, but it’s hard to find abetter lobster stew on Menorcathan Es Cranc’s, in Fornells.The owners have their own fish-ing boat, so it’s as fresh as it gets.See p. 195.

There’s no special touristtreatment at Port de Sóller’s Ca’sMariner, just superb home cook-ing and the island’s best catch.Try the bandeja de marisco (aselection of seafood includingclams, mussels, three differentkinds of shrimp and razor clams)or parrillada de pescado (a mixedfish grill). See p. 85.

The Best Outdoor DiningHandily placed in Ciutat Jardi,just a short hop from Palma, El Bungalow is an essentialwater’s-edge dining experience.This charming fisherman’s

cottage on the beach is every-thing seaside eating should be:boat-fresh fish and seafood,clams and mussels; whole seabass baked in salt; and some ofthe island’s best paellas, withcrisp, cold white wine to wash itall down. See p. 67.

The Best Fine Dining Housedin a handsome 16th centuryolive press, L’Olivo in Deià isone of the best dining experi-ences in Spain. Its soaring raftersand whitewash make it light andairy by day, romantic and inti-mate by night. If you’re with thefamily, book a spot on the ter-race for a long, lazy lunch. Seep. 84.

It’s only been open a year, butalready chef Peter Urbach, whopreviously had restaurants inMunich, is making waves withhis fresh approach to Mallorcancuisine at Es Pinaret. This is aplace where kids get to playgrown-ups in an enchanted gar-den, and still get catered for on amenu that features everythingfrom saffron risotto to kiddies’schnitzel. Failing that, the poolshould keep them happy. Seep. 129.

The Best Ice-creams Nomatter where you eat in Sóller,save room for ice-cream atSa Fàbrica de Gelats. Peopletravel from all over the island totaste its 40 excellent home-madeice-creams and sorbets. Seep. 86.

The Best Breakfasts For aMenorcan breakfast (there’s noegg and bacon on the menu),

Ca’s Mariner

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visit Can Pota in Maó. Stop infor a large plate of tomato-smeared toast, pile it high withham, sausages and cheese, andfinish it off with a strong cup ofcoffee. See p. 196.

Since opening five years ago inIbiza, childhood friends Pam andBarbara’s Club Sandwich in SantAntoni has become something ofan institution. Their famousPotbelly Breakfast is more thanjust a heaven-sent hangover curefor clubbers – it’ll fill hungryteens, too. See p. 231.

The Best Atmospheric BarsLa Fonda Pepe, Formentera’s‘Hippy Bar’, is the focus ofevening action in San Ferran.It’s usually warm enough foryou to sip drinks outside onthe pedestrianised rambla andwatch the world go by. Seep. 246.

Sure, seaside bars are ten-a-penny on Ibiza, but there’s onlyone synonymous with the birthof the Balearic Beat: SantAntoni’s Café Del Mar. Grab a

beer, get the children a fruitjuice, and watch the sun godown. See p. 228.

The Best Picnic Treats For atasty DIY-picnic, Balearic style,don’t bother making sarnies inadvance, just tear open a piece of crusty bread, smear a plumtomato inside and liberally scatterwith salt and olive oil – this is theclassic pa amb oli you’ll see inbars and restaurants, occasionallyfinished off with a wafer-thinslice of Serrano ham.

For sweeter teeth, Mallorcamay have claimed ensaïmadesas its own, but you can findthese spiral pastries across theBalearics, in individual portionsor filled with angel’s hair jam inhuge round boxes.

To finish it off, horchatamay look like a strange milk-shake, but it is in fact madefrom tiger nuts. It’s best drunkpoured fresh from one of theglass churns you’ll see in bars –not from supermarket plasticbottles.

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