071 SPC0413

The sun care category is under attack.The aggressors? An unstoppable army of BBcreams, CC creams and UV filter containingskin care and body care products, all ofwhich are tempting consumers away fromtraditional sun protection.

“The sun care market grew 5.9% in 2012to $9.1bn, which was a small decrease ongrowth in 2011 [6.5%],” says NicoleTyrimou, Beauty and Personal Care Analystat Euromonitor International. “The last yearhas been gloomy across a lot of sectors, butsun care has been particularly hard hitbecause there are now all these otherproducts claiming sun protection competing with sun care in skin care,colour cosmetics and even ingestibles.

“In the past, consumers might haveselected skin care with SPF,” she adds.“Now they are coming to expect sunprotection as standard from both skin careand colour cosmetics. And in regions likeEurope and Asia Pacific, where [skin careand make-up] manufacturers are allowed toclaim protection over SPF15, you are nowgetting products with claims of SPF30 andhigher. The result is there’s a danger thatthe sun care category will become a‘holiday’ category, or one confined tosports use.”

The sluggish economy in westernEurope (responsible for $2.7bn of sun caresales) also negatively impacted the category,as Chris Lindsley, Global Skincare Analystat Mintel, tells SPC. “Among the Europeanbig five, only the UK saw an increase inproduct launches in 2012 – by 1%. The restdecreased,” he says. “In Italy and Spain, 38%and 39% of consumers respectively saidthey’d cut back on sun protectionpurchases and were using leftover productfrom the previous year and this has affectedsales.”

The outlook proved little brighter inNorth America or Asia, which alsoexperienced a slowdown in growth. The

North American sun care market grew just4.4%, compared with 6.4% in 2011, whileAsia’s grew 6.7%, down on 8.6% in 2011.

Australasia was the exception to the rule,exhibiting stronger sales growth in 2012(5.9%) than in 2011 (1.8%), which Tyrimou

April 2013 SPC 71

Sun care sales are suffering as a result of the surge in skin care and make-up with UVprotection. But the category is innovating to survive, says Julia Wray

TABLE 1: GLOBAL SUN CARE MARKETBY CATEGORY, 2012 (US$M)

Category 2012 %+/-Sun care total 9,094.2 5.9Sun protection 7,886.6 6.5Aftersun 637.1 2.6Self-tanning 570.5 1.9Source: Euromonitor International

TABLE 2: GLOBAL SUN CARE MARKETBY REGION, 2012 (US$M)

Region 2012 %+/-North America 1,884.5 4.4Latin America 1,799.7 16.0Western Europe 2,709.1 0.1Eastern Europe 327.0 4.6Asia Pacific 1,950.6 6.7Middle East & Africa 219.7 14.1Australasia 203.6 5.9Source: Euromonitor International

market reportsun care

THEHEATIS ON

In Australia the SPFbar has been raised

from 30 to 50+

071 SPC0413 sun marketCH_spc feature template 02/12/2014 17:24 Page 71

attributes to the change in Australia’ssunscreen regulations. “Until recently,SPF30 was the maximum SPF value a suncare product on the Australian marketcould claim. But from November 2012, theAustralian government’s Therapeutic GoodsAdministration raised the benchmark toSPF50+ and of course this meansconsumers are upgrading to the highestpossible factor,” she explains. “Also, inAustralia, colour cosmetics and skin careproducts are not allowed to label anythingover SPF15, which is the maximum SPFclaim for a non-sun care product. This limitnot only means there is less competitionfrom other sectors, it also means that inAustralia it is the sun care brands ratherthan the skin care ones who are answeringconsumer demand for multifunctionalproducts.”

But the sun care category is not about tosurrender market share without a fight.Instead it is evolving and diversifying.“We’re seeing more body specific sun careproducts – ones for the lips, face, body andhair,” explains Tyrimou. “And as well asbody parts, we’re seeing more segmentationby consumer type, format and protectionlevel too. It’s making sun care moremultifunctional as a way of adding value.”

As Louise Hardman, Assistant BrandManager at Piz Buin owner Johnson &Johnson, notes: “People prefer a range ofchoices because everyone has theirfavourite. It’s all about expanding thatrange in a variety of SPFs. Lotions andsprays are our biggest format. But we’realso seeing the introduction of completelynew formats. You’ve got mousse spray,you’ve got oil and you’ve got mist. Themousse spray doesn’t tend to go as far asother formats but it is non-greasy.”

“You have to have products that fillevery niche,” adds ConsultantDermatologist Dr Sue Mayou. “Somepeople look for things like Piz [Buin]which lasts for six hours because it’sconvenient and some people liketransparent sprays because they’recosmetically acceptable and quiteeasy to apply. Then there are onescontaining a tan accelerator forthose who really want to getbrown.”

In addition, formulations arebecoming more sophisticated,according to Tyrimou. “Creams aremore easily absorbed, oils are drier,sprays are transparent, you’re getting

2012 there was an increase in launches ofsun protection with SPF30, SPF50 andSPF70, but SPF15 and SPF20 productlaunches decreased. This mirrors consumerdata showing that a quarter of consumersin the European big five are using a higherlevel of SPF than a few years ago.”

Indeed, most brands now aim to includemaximum protection sunscreens in amajority of their ranges.

And the announcement of the new PArating instigated a rush among Japanesemanufacturers to launch high UVAprotection products for summer 2013.Rohto Pharmaceutical introduced fourPA++++ milks – Sunplay Super Block,Super Cool, Clear Water and Baby Milk –while Pola developed Whitissimo UVBlock Shield White and Noevir launchedRaysela UV Protector Stick.

While Lindsley attributes increaseddemand for higher SPF to better consumereducation about the dangers of sunexposure, J&J’s Hardman suggests additionalreasons. “We’ve seen an increase in demandfor SPF50… as we have an ageingpopulation,” she tells SPC.

Moreover, with urban populationsgrowing across the globe, we can expect tosee more products like Germaine DeCapuccini’s UV Urban Shield SPF50,which not only protects skin from suninduced cellular damage, but fromadditional environmental aggressors likepollution.

CONVENIENCE IS KINGConsumers want their sun protection and

self-tanning products to beconvenient, and packaging plays a bigpart in delivering this, as Lindsleynotes. While bottles and tubes are stillthe primary packaging methods forsun care, 2012 saw increased use of‘versatile’ and ‘easy to hold’ tottles aswell as a rise in aerosol product

launches in line with growth inmist products.

Nivea, for example, recentlylaunched its first aerosolsunscreen, Nivea Sun Protect& Refresh Invisible CoolingMist. In line with the trendtowards easy use, the applicatorhas a 360º valve, which can beused from all angles, making iteasy to apply, even to hard toreach places.

Barry Goode, UK BrandManager, Sun and Lip Care atBeiersdorf UK, notes that inaddition to convenience,consumers specifically want “apleasurable application”, which

products that can be applied to wet skinand ones which dry quicker or last longerbetween applications,” she tells SPC.

PROTECTION MATTERSSun protection is first and foremost aboutsafety, preventing UVB induced sunburnand the DNA damage caused by UVB andUVA rays that can lead to premature skinageing and skin cancer, and is naturally anissue of importance to governments andindustry bodies worldwide.

Australia was not the only country toupdate its sunscreen regulations in recentmonths. The US FDA’s final rule onlabelling and effectiveness testing forsunscreens came into effect on 17December 2012, with key changesincluding a 50+ cap on SPF claims (formore information see p81).

“The FDA cap on SPF50+ will forcebrands in the US to fight harder todifferentiate their products,” predictsTyrimou. “It used to be a war of the SPFs.Now they will have to differentiateelsewhere. It’s amazing the segmentationthey’re already coming up with. We’ve seena tattoo protecting variant [CoppertoneTattoo Guard Sunscreen SPF50, available instick and lotion formats, which boasts amoisturising formula to help maintain thesmooth appearance of tattooed skin], andwe’re seeing kids’ and babies’ separating intodifferent segments. It’s an effort todifferentiate themselves and to tap into aselling point in a very saturated market.”

Elsewhere, in November 2012, the JapanCosmetic Industry Association updated itsPA system for assessing UVA protectionwith the addition of a new highergrade: PA++++, the equivalent of aUVA protection factor of over 16.

According to Lindsley, the PAsystem (the preferred choice ofmost Asian sun care brands) isfast becoming the global standardfor UVA protection. “The waycompanies talk aboutprotection is changing,”he says. “In 2012, thenumber of new sun careproducts with SPF inthe title increased by2%, while those withUVB and UVA in thetitle both fell. Thereason for this is theincreased use of the PAranking for UVA inlabelling, which was up54% in 2012.

“We are seeing a shifttowards a higher level ofprotection,” he adds. “In

sun caremarket report

Nivea has launched its first aerosolsunscreen (right) while Piz Buin isbuilding on its wet skin technology (farright)

72 SPC April 2013


(340nm–400nm) penetrate deep into theepidermis, even reaching the immune cellsin the skin, causing intolerances.

Tyrimou notes that as well as sensitiveand anti-allergen claims, there has been arise in sunscreen for rosacea and acneprone skin too, citing La Roche-Posay’sexisting Anthelios AC SPF30 ExtremeFluid for blemish prone skin as an example.

And sun care is making inroads intoother niche areas. Last summer, India’sDabur launched Dabur Uveda SunblockSPF30, which claims to combine broadspectrum sun protection with Ayurvedicingredients like protective gudhuma anduva-ursi leaf extract to lighten skin tone.

Also new on the market was AethicSôvée, an eco-compatible sunscreen brand.“Sunscreens contribute 10% of the damagedone to coral reefs around the world. It isthe most direct demonstration of man’sdirect impact on the aquatic environment,”Allard Marx, one of the founders of Aethic,tells SPC. “Biodegradable means thatproducts degrade when subjected to theelements... [but] does not mean that theingredients do no harm. Eco-compatiblemeans the ingredients do no harm tonature.”

He adds: “Each ingredient [in AethicSôvée] was individually tested on coral andon mussels/clams. Then the entire productwas again tested in the marine habitat.While this is currently a niche in themarket, it is also the future of the market.”

ADDED BENEFITSMultifunctionality is a good way for suncare brands to add value and compete withUV-containing skin care and make-up.Little surprise then that many new sun caresolutions for the face and the body featureclaims ranging from anti-ageing to tanenhancing... and often in the same product.

This year, La Mer joined the ranks ofpremium beauty names with a sun careline, launching Soleil de la Mer. Products inthe collection – including Reparative FaceSun Lotion SPF30 and Reparative BodySun Lotion SPF30 – combine La Mer’siconic Miracle Broth with a restorativeferment of Laminaria ochroleuca (goldenalgae), marine peptides and sea botanicals.

And while the newest additions toLierac’s Sunific line-up – Huile Satinante(SPF30), Huile Embellissante (SPF15) andHuile Sublimante (SPF6) – offer anti-ageing and bronzing benefits thanks to atrio of hydrating oils (monoi, roucou andapricot kernel) and a peptide thatstimulates tanning, SkinCeuticals andAmway opted for facial products offeringprotective and corrective properties.

Brightening UV Defense SPF30 from


the new mist is said to deliver via a coolingsensation. “The cooling effect is achievedthrough the use of menthol in the productand the evaporation of ethanol,” Goodeexplains. “When the product is spritzed onin a fine mist it creates a natural coolingsensation when it hits the skin, helping tocool hot bodies.”

As well as progress in packaging, demandfor convenience is being answered throughformulation innovation, with claims like‘long lasting’ and ‘works on wet skin’becoming more common.

Riemann, for example, introduced itsclassic once a day protection product P20in a wider range of SPFs, while pharmacychain Boots launched Soltan Kids Once 3Hour Water Play Suncare Spray in SPF30and SPF50.

“Once a day products offer up to eighthours protection from a single application,including three hours in the water,” saysClare O’Connor, Innovation R&DManager – Skin Protection at Boots.“These products have been available inlotion format, but due to technologicaladvances in working on our once a dayformats, it has now been possible tointroduce this into an easy to apply sprayformat.”

And last month, J&J launched Piz BuinWet Skin Transparent Sun Care in SPF15,which builds on the technology used in itsNeutrogena Wet Skin Sunblock, whichdebuted in the US last year.

Standard transparent sunscreen sprays slideoff wet skin leaving white marks. Piz BuinWet Skin, on the other hand, cuts throughthe water barrier upon application. AsGeorgios Stamatas, J&J’s Research AssociateDirector – EMEA Skin Care Science andScientific Communication, explains: “WithPiz Buin Wet Skin we introduce a mixtureof polyester, resin and silicone together withthe sunscreen filters and the regular oils inwhich they are dissolved. We add thesilicone to increase the solubility of thepolymer inside the oil. The polyester andresin are hydrophobic so theycan cut through water on theskin’s surface and still createthis oil layer, so you get niceuniform protection.”

Meanwhile, Lancasteradded Wet Skin Applicationsunscreens to its Sun Sportsand Sun For Kids lines – bothwell suited to the wet skinconcept.

AREAS OFSEGMENTATIONKids are one consumer groupwhere convenient formats and

Aethic Sôvée (left) is targeted aseco-compatible while La Mer(above) introduces its MiracleBroth to the sun

April 2013 SPC 75

modes of application are particularlyessential. “Even if an adult does not use sunprotection themselves they will want toprotect their children,” says Tyrimou. “Kidsare more exposed – on holiday they’replaying in the sun and in the sea – plustheir skin is more sensitive. Foams are greatfor kids because they are fun, fast to applyand absorb quickly. Both foams and sticksare gaining ground with the kids’ sun caremarket.”

Lisa Matthews, Head of Own Brand atUK pharmacy chain Superdrug, says thekids’ product line-up within its privatelabel Solait brand will be an area of focusin coming months. “We have… a wholerange of kids’ products that are unique:trigger spray packaging that they find easyto apply themselves and a rollerball. Allchildren need to take sunscreen intoschools in the summer and our rollerballfits into their lunchbox, has a name tag andteachers can apply it without touching thechild at all.”

Boots likewise enhanced its kids’ offerwith a new sensitive line for kids as part ofits Soltan portfolio, which O’Connor saysis “formulated to be extra mild to reducethe risk of skin rashes and allergies, a keyconcern for parents during thesummertime”.

Indeed, in line with the moremainstream positioning of therapeutic skincare products, sunscreens for consumerswith sensitive skins are increasinglycommon. New from Sisley, for instance, isSuper Stick Solaire SPF30, created for thesensitive areas of the face and containingthe emollients camellia oil, mango butterand shea butter.

Meanwhile, products in the new seven-sku Garnier Ambre Solaire Sensitive rangeare not just fragrance-, paraben- andartificial colour-free, they also provideprotection from longer wavelengths ofUVA than standard sunscreens. Accordingto Garnier, long UVA rays


SkinCeuticals combines broad spectrumprotection with a complex targetingexisting hyperpigmentation, while AmwayArtistry Time Defiance UV Defense SPF50contains ten natural plant extracts, selectedfor their brightening and soothingproperties. The product was developed tofulfil the needs of women of every colourand the ultralight formula is said to absorbinstantly with no ashy look, regardless ofskin tone.

Commenting on facial sun carespecifically, Euromonitor’s Tyrimou states:“The whole point of a sun protectionproduct is that it creates a film on yourskin. But this feels unnatural. Sun carebrands need to explain to consumers whythey need to add this step to their routineand apply this film. And the answer isbecause UV filters are less concentrated inskin care and consumers are likely to useless product; they are less protected. To winthe fight against multifunctional skin careand colour cosmetics, the approach by suncare brands needs to be two pronged: keepimproving the feel of formulations andimprove consumer education.”

Alternatively, sun care brand Garnier

Ambre Solaire took a ‘beat them at theirown game approach’ and launched its ownBB cream.

BRONZE AGEOn a global scale, the $570m self-tanningcategory is still struggling to establish itselfin the sun care market. “It’s not a necessityand although self-tanning brands arealigning themselves with skin care moreand more, it is still a sub-category restrictedto developed markets,” explainsTyrimou. “Plus Asia Pacific willnever be an area they can tap into,which will always be a barrier.”

But while self-tanners might beconfined to developed markets,innovation in these countries(especially the US and the UK) isthriving as brands seek to meetconsumers’ increasingly sophisticateddemands.

“Gone are the days of fakelooking tans,” James Read, UK self-tanning expert, tells SPC. “It’s aboutgiving the skin a warm goldencolour… your skin should play as abackground colour working with the

rest of your look, not overpowering it.” Read’s own 11-sku self-tanning line,

launched in June 2012, includes a first of itskind product: the James Read BB Tan FacePen, which features a brush applicator forapplying tan to hard to reach places withoutgetting product on your fingers. Anotherfirst is his newest addition: the James ReadSleep Mask Tan. Also new is Kardashian SunKissed, a five-sku sunless tanning system.

The latest additions to St Tropez’portfolio, meanwhile, demonstrate thesegmentation happening throughoutthe self-tanning market with productsfor different body parts and differentneeds.

Other new launches suggest a trendtowards dark tan variants such as L’OréalParis Sublime Bronze Express Pro Self-Tanning Dry Mist Dark Tan, Xen-Tan’sMoroccan Tan, which dries a deep olivecolour, Superdrug Solait Wear-Off DarkSpray Tan and Superdrug Solait Wash-OffDark Matte Bronzer. Indeed, wash-offproducts, bridging the gap between suncare and make-up, are proving popular.

And there is potential growth for self-tanners in the men’s category, according


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to Lindsley, who notes: “In the UK, only3% of men currently use self-tan products,as compared to 15% of women, so genderspecific products could do well here.”

MORE THAN AN AFTERTHOUGHT The aftersun market grew 2.6% to $637min 2012 and performed very well in AsiaPacific with consumption increasing from asmall base. “The barrier to growth here isthat a lot of people just use moisturiserfollowing sun exposure, so aftersun iscompeting with the body care market,”states Tyrimou.

However, sun care brands are increasinglypositioning aftersun as a vital step inpeople’s tanning routines. Hawaiian Tropic,for example, plans to push its upcoming 24-hour moisturisation and silk ribbontechnology aftersun product as being to suncream what conditioner is to shampoo, iemaintaining the tan’s condition for longer.

Moreover, as is the case with sunprotection and self-tanning, manufacturersare generating consumer interest throughthe creation of aftersun with additionalbenefits, such as whitening in productsaimed at the Asian market and tan

prolonging claims in those for westernconsumers.

Lancaster, meanwhile, took a slightlydifferent approach, focusing on tan preparersand complementary products. New productsinclude Tan Preparer Sun PreparingHydrating Serum for the face, which boostsmelanin production in addition to providingan instant smoothing effect.

A GOLDEN FUTURE?In 2014 and beyond, the greatestopportunity regionally lies in China, whosesun care market is predicted to overtakeSouth Korea’s next year. “The Chineseeconomy is growing and more people aregoing on holiday and being exposed tomessages about sun safety,” says Tyrimou.“Also 74% of Chinese consumers say theylive in an area where they need to use sunprotection and 91% now say they can affordsun care.” As consumers in China don’t tendto sunbathe, she adds: “The focus should beon sun protection products for the face –the one area that Chinese consumers don’tprotect with clothing.”

On the format side, it remains to be seenwhether consumer faith in aerosol

sunscreens in general has been shaken bythe high profile recall of some of BananaBoat’s mist sunscreens in October 2012,following five instances of consumers whocaught fire after applying the product andcoming into contact with an open flame.

When it comes to sun care claims,however, the personal care industry canexpect to see a continuation of this year’strends in 2013/14. “We will see moreformats, greater ease of application andmore segmentation into consumer groupsand products for specific areas and specificevents,” predicts Tyrimou. “There will bemore added benefits and a focus on highSPF and UVA protection.” She adds thatthere might be some focus on infraredprotection, but warns that consumers “maynot be ready to take yet another level ofprotection into account”.

Ultimately, as Beiersdorf ’s Goodeconcludes: “Consumers continue to lookfor products that make sun protectionapplication easier and more pleasurable andthis is where manufacturers should focustheir efforts. Give consumers a reason topurchase over and above the expectedbenefit of protecting them from the sun.”


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071 SPC0413