154
Jewellery Historian 17

Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

Embed Size (px)

Citation preview

Page 1: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

Jewellery Historian

17

Page 2: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

INSIDE THIS ISSUE

1

“At the JEWELLERY HISTORIAN we feature exclusively jewellery designers,

brands and artists whose work is exceptional and of the highest quality.”

Jewellery Historian

17 Wacomka / SHUTTERSTOCK . COM

Page 3: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

2

21In his The Art of Creativity column, Olivier Dupon

introduces us to Michelle Ong who has been

creating beautiful and collectable jewellery for

Carnet over the last two decades. As a designer of

high jewellery, Michelle Ong focuses on the perfect

combination of precious stones, remarkable

craftsmanship and memorable designs.

The January Jewellery auction at Christie’s South

Kensington will offer 256 lots of jewellery and

diamond-set wristwatches, including a wide

selection of modern and collectable jewellery from

the 19th century and Art Deco period to the

present day. A great auction to find amazing jewelry

of exceptional beauty. Discover more in our News.

10

Photo courtesy of CHRISTIE'S IMAGES LTD. 2016 © CHRISTIE'S IMAGES LTD. 2016

Phot

o c

ourte

sy o

f CAR

NET

© C

ARNE

T

The New Year, for many, marks a new beginning. It

is a time of renewal. A time to make right all that

we did wrong last year.  It is a time of new hope.

Our editor-in-chief in his Editor’s Letter, welcomes

you and invites you to discover the revised

Jewellery Historian and the latest issue of the “Best

kept secret in the world of luxury”.

7

Page 4: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

Editor-in-Chief Lucas Samaltanos-Ferrier

Creative director-at-large Panayiotis Simopoulos

Founder Lucas Samaltanos-Ferrier

---

Columnists

Eva Kountouraki ( Breathtaking beauty of Gems )

Olivier Dupon ( The art of creativity )

---

Contributors

Martin Huynh , Christina Rodopoulou

---

Creative Jewellery Historian

Production Jewellery Historian

Publishing 16ml & Homo Evolution

---

Photo agencies Shutterstock, Pixabay, Freepik, The stocks

Cover Svetlanamiku / Shutterstock. com

---

Advertising [email protected]

Website www.jewelleryhistorian.com

E-mail [email protected]

---

FREE DIGITAL COPY / NOT FOR SALE

JEWELLERY HISTORIAN © 2016

Jewellery Historian

All material published in this e-magazine and at www.jewelleryhistorian.com is pub-lished with permission of the brands and designers. Unless otherwise authorized in writing by the Jewellery Historian, it is strictly prohibited to reproduce, in whole or in part, and by any way, the content of this e-magazine. While precautions have been take to ensure the accuracy of the contents of our magazine and digital brands, nei-ther the editors, publishers or its agents can accept responsibility for damages or injury which may arise there from. The information on this e-magazine is for informa-tion purposes only. Jewellery Historian assumes no liability or responsibility for any inaccurate, delayed or incomplete information. The information contained has been provided by individual brands, event organizers, brands, press offices or organiza-tions without verification by us. The opinions expressed in articles and/or advertorials, are the author's and/or brand’s own and do not necessarily reflect the views of the Jewellery Historian, the owner, the publisher, the editor-in-chief and team of the maga-zine, or of any part related to the magazine. The name “Jewellery Historian” and/or logo, may not be reproduced without prior written consent of the founder of magazine.

Partial or entire reproduction of the material of this magazine is strictly prohibited.The content, entire edition, graphics, design, lay-out and other matters related to this issue are protected under applicable copyrights and other proprietary laws, including but not limited to intellectual property laws. The copying, reproduction, use, modification or publication by you of any such matters or any part of the material is strictly prohib-ited, without our express prior written permission.All trade names, trademarks or dis-

tinctive signs of any kind contained in the Web pages of the company are the prop-erty of their owners and are protected by law. The same is valid also for all Links (links) .The presence of third-part links (links) in the Jewellery Historian Web pages & e-magazine is for informational purposes only.

Our articles may contain photos/texts/graphics/designs that belong to third parties. They are published for information purposes only and with permission of the brands. Image(s) or Footage (as applicable), used under license from photo agencies.

The Jewellery Historian is publishing articles about jewellery, auctions, jewellery de-signers, gemology, gemstones, etc. All trademarks mentioned in the Jewellery Histo-rian’s website and/or magazine belong to their owners, third party brands, product names, trade names, corporate names and company names mentioned may be trade-marks of their respective owners or registered trademarks of other companies and are used for purposes of explanation & information and to the owner's benefit, without implying a violation of copyright law.

Photos used in articles belong to their owners, third party brands, product names, trade names, corporate names and company names mentioned may be trademarks of their respective owners or registered trademarks of other companies and are used for purposes of explanation and to the owner's benefit, without implying a violation of copyright law.

Page 5: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

4

In her Breathtaking beauty of gems column, Eva

Kountouraki talks about a gemstone that was given

the nickname “the great impostor”. It has been sold,

bought, stolen, inherited, and thought of as another

gem for many many years. However it survived and

rose to the heart of the people as an important

gemstone of its own; and it deserves to be named

by its own name and praised for its unique

qualities; it’s the beautiful spinel.

53

Phot

o c

ourte

sy o

f ADL

ER J

OAI

LLIE

RS ©

ADL

ER J

OAI

LLIE

RS

An “esthète” is a person who has or professes to

have refined sensitivity toward the beauties of art or

nature. In each issue, discover the personal choice

of our editor-in-chief, in his esthète column.

Phot

o c

ourte

sy o

f YO

KO L

OND

ON

© Y

OKO

LO

NDO

N

59Previously a connoisseur’s secret, Maria Kovadi

Fine Jewellery is presented to the wider audience at

Baselworld 2016. But at the Jewellery Historian we

are honored to be among the first to present the

exceptional work of this talented and unique artist.

61

Page 6: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

95Celebrity favorites, Maria Lucia Hohan’s dresses

are spotted on the red carpet at almost all

Hollywood events that make headlines. To welcome

our new S comme Style column, we chose to

introduce you Maria Lucia Hohan, an important

name among the new wave of fashion designers and

a designer we love for her creations and talent.

For our new column Exceptional Timepieces

BVLGARI clothes its LVCEA collection in brilliant

and glamorous High Jewellery attire and introduces

us the two new seductive creations of the LVCEA

watch,gentle and graceful as powerful and

sophisticated and a tribute to luminous brightness,

through an aesthetic that harnesses the power of

light

87

Photo courtesy of BULGARI © BULGARI

Phot

o c

ourte

sy o

f MAR

IA L

UCIA

HO

HAN

© M

ARIA

LUC

IA H

OHA

N

5

Mousson Atelier was founded in Saint Petersburg,

Russia, in 2008. The atelier came into being as a

result of an alliance of professionals with over 20

years of experience in creating jewelry and

collecting unique gemstones. Today Mousson

Atelier preserves the family tradition of innovation

and creates jewelry in a modern and classic style.

Innovation in design and manufacturing quality are

the key principles of the company.

69

Page 7: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

In every issue, for Jewels we Love, we handpick the

finest jewellery for you to choose , enabling you to

add a sophisticated, elegant touch to the most

important times of your life. Previously known as

“Our Faves”, this new column introduces you to

our favorite jewellery, designed by the most talented

jewellery designers.

107

6

In every issue, Inspirations, introduce you to the

latest trends in interior design, prêt-à-porter,

accessories, travel, books and lifestyle. This new

columns welcomes our new strategy to feature the

best of design, as requested by you, our readers.

135

Our Address Book in the end of our issue contains

all brands featured in this issue and the official

websites where you can find more information

about each brand.

Page 8: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

Pugo

vica8

8 / S

HUTT

ERST

OCK

. CO

M

Jewellery Historian | EDITOR’S LETTER

Page 9: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

8

Lucas Samaltanos-FerrierFounder & Editor-in-Chief

The New Year, for many, marks a new beginning.  It is a time of renewal. A time to make right all that we did wrong last year. It is a time of new hope.

The same applies also to the Jewellery Historian. When I decided to create this magazine, I did it with a passion for knowledge and critical inquiry, while searching new and innova-tive ways of delivering information that can resonate long after publication, combined to a uniquely powerful visual and textual storytelling.

2016, marks new and important changes in our magazine. First of all, because we decided that our magazine will be bimonthly. This was made to offer to our readers the best possi-ble reading experience and to our business partners the best possible exposure.

The second reason, is because the jewellery designers, brands and artists we choose to showcase in every issue, whose work is exceptional and of the highest quality, need an exceptional and minimal way to reach their audience. This is why at the Jewellery Historian we focus on aesthetics and to the creativity of the designers, by letting their creations to speak for themselves, rather that surrounding them with distractions and other imagery.

To reach our international audience, a connected community of decision makers, connois-seurs with enhanced refinement, we decided to redesign both our magazine and website. Our readership, has until now been accumulated only by word-of-mouth and in short time reached an international audience due to the professional knowledge, the high quality con-tent and exceptional aesthetics of our team. We are honored of your support and we know that without your support this magazine who promotes, inspires and educates would not exist without your precious support.

You will immediately notice the dynamism and beauty of this new layout. The “navigation” has been completely revamped and simplified to promote a more modern and more friendly approach, both in our magazine and website.

We have chosen to focus to creativity. With a minimal design, that offers to the reader a unique reading experience, the Jewellery Historian aims to be a powerful way to introduce the unique universe of jewellery & timepieces to the new digital generation and to be a ref-erence for the jewellery & timepieces lovers, while contributing in strengthening social capi-tal by improving the knowledge, skills, confidence, motivation, networks and resources.

My best wishes to you all for this new year, for a year full of love, joy and prosperity.

EDITOR’S LETTER

Page 10: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

CONTRIBUTORS

INSIDE THIS ISSUE

9

As long as he could remember, Olivier Du-pon has always been passionate about how ideas can translate into designs, and as a result, he is fascinated by the umpteen creative approaches taken by many inde-pendent practitioners. He is now an expert in the fields of lifestyle and fashion, reveling in exposing these talents to a wider audi-ence. While he began his career at Chris-tian Dior, and then worked as a buyer and project manager for several large retail companies before running his own lifestyle boutique for several years, now based in London, he scouts international markets in search of exciting names in Art & Craft, with a focus on jewellery makers and splen-did precious designs.

His previous books include The New Arti-sans (2011), The New Jewelers (2012), The New Pâtissiers (2013), Floral Contemporary (2014), Encore! The New Artisans (2015), and Shoe: Contemporary Footwear by In-spiring Designers (2015) all published by Thames & Hudson. His new book on luxury jewellery will be published in Autumn 2016.

For the Jewellery Historian, in his The Art of Creativity column, Olivier Dupon exposes inspiring, intriguing at time, and captivating stories through the presentation of talents or the exposé of current topics, all centered around creativity in today’s high-end fine jewelry.

Eva Kountouraki was born and raised in a family of goldsmiths and jewelers. From a very young age she expressed her keen interest in gems, jewelry and design, a passion that led her to devote her studies and her career in this field. She started her first collection of pol-ished and rough gemstones at a very early age and realized that this would be her profession in the future.

After studying gemology books in various languages, she attended gemological seminars in Greece and Europe and developed practical skills to analyze gems, Eva decided to accredit those skills choosing the best gemological institute in the world, GIA (Gemological Institute of America), for her studies.

Succeeding unprecedented results in the practice and theory of gemology, analyzing and identifying thousands of gemstones and diamonds, she graduated and acquired the prestig-ious certificate GIA Graduate Gemologist Diploma, which includes specific studies in dia-mond grading (GIA Graduate Diamonds Diploma) and colored gemstones (GIA Graduate Colored Stones Diploma). Her studies in the jewelry field continued and Eva got her Jewelry Business Management Diploma, gaining specialized knowledge about all the aspects of the jewelry industry. Her training continued with jewelry design and computer aided design.Eva’s brilliant path in the field of gemology was crowned by her collaboration with the Italian branch of GIA. Eva received special training from professional and experienced gemologists of GIA Italy, New York and California, US, and for more than a decade she teaches gemology and jewelry design in GIA, transferring her experience, knowledge and passion for diamonds, gems and jewelry to her students-famous professionals from around world.

Eve is proud to be the only Greek woman who has ever accomplished such a distinction in the field of diamonds and precious stones. Alongside her work as a gemology instructor, Eva is a jewelry and gemstone buyer and consultant for privates and companies, advising and helping her clients to make successful buys and investments in gemstones. She also organ-izes and teaches seminars for the training of gemstone and jewelry merchants, salespeople and gem-passionates. For the Jewellery Historian, in her The breathtaking beauty of gems column, she introduces you to a breathtaking gemstone in every issue.

Page 11: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

NEWS

10

Jewellery Historian

Pete

r Kot

off /

SHU

TTER

STO

CK .

COM

Page 12: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

ULYSSE NARDIN

11

Ulysse Nardin Introduces the Cheerful “Year of the Monkey” Timepiece

Playful and happy, the monkey’s spirit overflows with personality. Always curious, notoriously mischievous and especially clever, the monkey is the ninth animal in the Chinese Zodiac. Ulysse Nardin honors its exuberant essence with the “Year of the Monkey” timepiece, the latest addition to its Classico Collection.

Designed in a comic strip-like style to best capture the lively creature’s character, the dial is the center of attention as the monkey appears to leap through a brush of palm fronds. Its expression is alert, its body is lithe, and the early workings of an impish grin begin to emerge. It is the champlevé method of enameling that brings the artist’s sketch to life.

A rare art form and one mastered by very few, the champlevé technique consists of cells being carved with a chisel directly on the dial and filled with enamel. Its colors are generated from different metallic oxides, and for this piece, a neutral palette has been selected. The piece is then fired until the enamel melts.

Ulysse Nardin has been bringing this realism to its dials for more than 25 years and is one of the only watchmakers devoted to the centuries-old craft. It is mastered in-house at Donzé Cadrans, a member of the Ulysse Nardin group of companies.

The Classico Collection hosts a suite of original enameled pieces revered and collected by many. For 2016, Ulysse Nardin is pleased to introduce the “Year of the Monkey”, a limited edition of 88 pieces in 18-karat rose gold. Features include the self-winding UN-815 movement and COSC-certified chronometer.

A joyful timepiece, one cannot help but smile when checking the time.

Page 13: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

12

Phot

o c

ourte

sy o

f ULY

SSE

NARD

IN ©

ULY

SSE

NARD

IN

Page 14: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

CHRIST IE’S SOUTH KENSINGTON

13

The January Jewellery auction

The January Jewellery auction at Christie’s South Kensington will offer 256 lots of jewellery and diamond-set wristwatches, including a wide selection of modern and collectable jewellery from the 19th century and Art Deco period to the present day.

Highlights include a 19th century diamond riviėre necklace (estimate £15,000-20,000), a pair of old-cut diamond single stone earrings (estimate £5,000-7,000), an emerald and diamond cluster ring (estimate £6,000-8,000) and a coloured diamond and diamond bracelet (estimate £5,000-7,000).

The sale also features a collection of signed jewels such as an attractive pair of enamel and diamond clip brooches by Boucheron (estimate £6,000-8,000), a morganite and gem brooch by Chaumet (estimate £2,000-3,000), as well as a selection of diamond jewellery by Bulgari, Buccellati and Chopard. Other signed jewels include pieces by Cartier, Mouawad, Van Cleef & Arpels, Tiffany & Co and Jahan.

Christie’s South Kensington hosts seven jewellery auctions a year, offering new and existing clients regular opportunities to acquire jewels for occasions and every day, original and unique engagement rings, and gifts. The sales offer a variety of watches and jewellery ranging from collectable antique jewels, as well as fine period jewellery from the Art Deco and Belle Epoque periods, through to contemporary pieces. Notable jewelers such as Cartier, Chopard, Rolex, Bulgari, Chanel, Patek Philippe, Piaget, Pomellato, David Webb and Tiffany feature regularly. Pre-auction viewings open the weekend before the sale and anyone is welcome to come in and browse the sale, to try on the pieces and speak to our specialists. Christie’s South Kensington is also open late on Mondays. With estimates ranging from £500 up to around £25,000, there is a jewel for every taste and budget.

Jewellery | Christie’s South KensingtonJan 20, 2016 | Sale 11526

Page 15: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

14

Phot

o c

ourte

sy o

f CHR

ISTI

E'S

IMAG

ES L

TD. 2

016

© C

HRIS

TIE'

S IM

AGES

LTD

. 201

6

Lot 217 TWO ENAMEL AND DIAMOND BROOCHES, BY BOUCHERON

Each designed as a rose, the guilloché red or green enamel petals, with pear-shaped diamond detail, to the pavé-set diamond leaves and baguette-cut diamond stem, circa 1960, French assay marks , 6.8 cm

Each signed Boucheron Paris, red one no. 13832.55Estimate: £6,000 - 8,000

Page 16: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

15

Lot 4   A LATE 19TH CENTURY DIAMOND SWALLOW BROOCH

The body and wings set with graduated old-cut diamonds, with rose-cut diamond wing tips, the head with cabochon ruby eyes and yellow gold beak, detachable brooch fitting, circa 1880, 4.0cm, in fitted case

Estimate: £1,500 - 2,000

Phot

o c

ourte

sy o

f CHR

ISTI

E'S

IMAG

ES L

TD. 2

016

© C

HRIS

TIE'

S IM

AGES

LTD

. 201

6

Page 17: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

16

Lot 2A VICTORIAN DIAMOND RIVIÉRE NECKLACE

Composed of a series of fifty four graduated old-cut diamond collets, mounted in silver and yellow gold, circa 1850, 39.0cm, in fitted case

Estimate: £15,000 - 20,000

Phot

o c

ourte

sy o

f CHR

ISTI

E'S

IMAG

ES L

TD. 2

016

© C

HRIS

TIE'

S IM

AGES

LTD

. 201

6

Page 18: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

GUCCI

17

Fashionable and Urban : GUCCI Timepieces releases suite of G-Frame variants

Echoing the playful yet polished mood depicted in Gucci’s Spring/Summer 2016 runway collections, Gucci Timepieces & Jewelry is pleased to release stylish new variants of the feminine G-Frame timepiece. These new watches are fitted with a double-loop strap, and come in a variety of designs, from sporty, to classic to urban. Recognizable by its neat beveled square case and minimalist dial, the suite of new G-Frame variants shows how by simply switching materials, the mood of the watch can change.

Inspired by the Gucci green-red-green web stripe, the sportiest model displays the two-tone canvas on the wraparound strap and matching dial, set within a yellow gold PVD case. The brightly colored racing stripe is perfect for the clean, lean G-Frame design, and the result is dynamic and streamlined.The new G-Frame with a brown calfskin looped strap, polished gold PVD case and mother of pearl dial creates a classic look with a chic and feminine appeal. As a contrast, the black variant offers a more urban aesthetic, seen in the black dial and black leather wraparound strap embellished with metal studs. On these two leather versions, Gucci’s new motif, the honeybee, is present next to the clasp, in matching yellow or stainless steel.

Each timepiece shows the Gucci logo at 12 o’clock, the “Swiss Made” stamp at 6 o’clock and “G” insignia on the crown, and Gucci’s new honeybee symbol engraved on the case back.

Page 19: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

18

Phot

o c

ourte

sy o

f GUC

CI ©

GUC

CI

Page 20: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

ULYSSE NARDIN

19

Ulysse Nardin opens a flagship Boutique in Abuja, Nigeria

Luxury Swiss watch manufacturer Ulysse Nardin, the leader in timepiece invention and innovation, announced the opening of a mono-brand Boutique in Abuja, the capital of Nigeria.

The official opening took place on December 10th attended by 300 guests including Dr. Daniel Cavegn, Deputy Head of Mission accompanied by several members of the Nigerian government. Mr. Patrik Hoffmann, CEO of Ulysse Nardin and Mr. Deremi Ajidahun, local partner of the brand, were very enthusiastic.

It is with great honor that Ulysse Nardin opens its first mono-brand boutique in Africa, namely in Nigeria, Abuja. Having a great following and many Ulysse Nardin enthusiasts in Nigeria, we decided to bring the Ulysse Nardin experience close to the watch connoisseurs in Abuja. In this new boutique, some of the most unique and exclusive timepieces will be on display, specified Patrik Hoffmann.

Located on Gana street, the most attractive place with luxury stores and hotels, the 50 square meters Boutique is designed as homage to the company’s nautical heritage. Decorated with wood furniture, timepieces are displayed in portholes.

The boutique features iconic timepieces like Perpetual Calendar, where the calendar can be set forward and backward with ease, the Freak, which tells time by its movement, not by its hands and the astronomical wristwatch Moonstruck. Watch aficionados can also find the innovative Ulysse Anchor Tourbillon recently crowned with Tourbillon Prize by the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève and the brand’s finest timepieces including Stranger, Sonata, Classico, Dual Time Manufacture and Jade for ladies. And, the Marine collection that anchors Ulysse Nardin’s past to the ocean with today’s exemplary Marine Chronometer Manufacture.

This boutique unveiling in Nigeria is the third this year for Ulysse Nardin with the new boutique in Miami Design District and the one in Dubai. The beholder of six exquisite families of watches, Ulysse Nardin will flow forward, stretching the limits of design, engineering and technology, and, of course, surprising watch fans around the globe.

Page 21: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

20

Phot

os c

ourte

sy o

f ULY

SSE

NARD

IN ©

ULY

SSE

NARD

IN

Page 22: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

21

THE ART OF CREATIVIT Y

Carnet by Michelle Ong

by Olivier Dupon

Michelle Ong has been creating beautiful and collectable

jewellery for Carnet over the last two decades. As a designer of

high jewellery, Michelle Ong focuses on the perfect combination

of precious stones, remarkable craftsmanship and memorable

designs.

Jewellery Historian | THE ART OF CREATIVITY

Page 23: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

22

Jewellery Historian | THE ART OF CREATIVITY

Phot

o c

ourte

sy o

f CAR

NET

© C

ARNE

T

Page 24: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

She is one who delights in beauty so much that she had to create some, a contribution to all things beautiful in the form of hyper feminine haute joaillerie. It is Carnet by Mi-chelle Ong, an enchanting treasure trove of exquisite jewels, part delicate constructions with a lace, gossamer-thin quality to them, part bold concertos of scintillating gem-stones. A dual aspect that heralds a measured flamboyance, jewellery that one wants to wear as well as collect, jewellery that empowers rather than overpowers.

‘Jewellery designing is what I am meant to do; in some ways it is like being an alchemist.  I am passionate about  combining beautiful elements together to create a new fabulous jewel. It's magical. It was certainly a revelation,’ she says, ‘but not a sud-den one. I always loved jewellery. When I returned to Hong Kong after university, I de-cided to work with gemstones. Their beauty and special qualities inspired me to design; first for myself, later for friends, who asked me to create pieces for them. Then I knew it was something I simply had to do.’

Carnet was founded in 1998 when Michelle partnered with Avi Nagar. To this day, the collaboration has been a match made in heaven, with Michelle being able to focus on the creative side of the business, which she does by writing the storied House’s DNA a piece at a time. ‘I really only work to my own high standards and strive to stay true to my creative vision’, she shares. ‘To me jewellery should be sumptuous, alluring and remarkable, whether the design is more architectural or very romantic. That is why I make sure that the essence of Carnet is incorporated into each piece I design.’

This essence has a slight old-world refinement, think La Belle Époque as hinted in the luminescent ‘Floating Diamonds’ necklace that is a feat of craftsmanship. It show-cases matching rose-cut diamonds that look as if they are afloat on the neckline. It is such a complex project that it literally took years to achieve the setting, but Michelle, in always putting her concepts before feasibility considerations, was finally able to do it. It takes faith in the power of imagination - the notion that ideas are designs in waiting. ‘I am very free in my designs. If I have an idea, I am determined to find a way to make the piece’, she adds.

Sometimes Michelle is inspired by a special gemstone, a flower, a beautiful line or just her vivid daydreams, but whatever the thought, she keeps a notebook with her all the time so she can record it all. And when it is time to materialize the piece, she says she starts to play with the different elements such as ‘the design, how it sits, the intensity and feeling. When I am satisfied, we make the piece in our own workshop. The finished piece has to be perfect. I will break it apart and begin again if I don't think it's truly Carnet’, she notes.

Even though Carnet by Michelle Ong is universal in spirit, one can notice the Chinese and Asian influences that routinely surround Michelle: flowers, Chinese lattice motifs, or a beautiful blue and white screen, as depicted in the intricate ‘Azure Lattice’ bracelet. ‘I love to create bejewelled "gardens" by combining fantasy flowers as in my ‘Wild Meadow Flower’ brooch. It is feminine yet bold, a reference to nature's beauty, but with a Carnet twist.

Varied precious stones intensify the lush colours of the petals and leaves’, she describes, ‘and it represents the sparkle you see in the garden at first light when the dew is still apparent.’ However whatever source of inspiration, it is always a subtle trib-

“Jewellery designing is what I am meant to do; in some ways it is like being an alchemist. I am pas-sionate about com-bining beautiful ele-ments together to cre-ate a new fabulous jewel. It's magical. It was certainly a reve-lation”.

23

Page 25: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

24

Phot

o c

ourte

sy o

f CAR

NET

© C

ARNE

T

Jewellery Historian | THE ART OF CREATIVITY

Wild Meadow Flower Brooch

White diamond, amethyst, pink and blue sapphire, ruby

and spinel brooch in 18K white gold and titanium

Page 26: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

25

Phot

o c

ourte

sy o

f CAR

NET

© C

ARNE

T

Sometimes Michelle is inspired by a spe-c ia l gemstone, a flower, a beautiful line or just her vivid d a y d r e a m s , b u t w h a t e v e r t h e thought, she keeps a notebook with her all the time so she can record it all.

Jewellery Historian | THE ART OF CREATIVITY

Page 27: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

26

Phot

o c

ourte

sy o

f CAR

NET

© C

ARNE

T

Jewellery Historian | THE ART OF CREATIVITY

Page 28: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

27

Phot

o c

ourte

sy o

f CAR

NET

© C

ARNE

T

Jewellery Historian | THE ART OF CREATIVITY

Sparkling Sunlight Pendant

Yellow sapphire, fancy intense orangy yellow, yellow and

white diamond pendant/brooch in platinum, 18K white

gold and titanium with white and yellow diamond chain

in 18K white gold

Page 29: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

28

Phot

o c

ourte

sy o

f CAR

NET

© C

ARNE

T

Jewellery Historian | THE ART OF CREATIVITY

Brilliant Diamond Earrings

Light yellow and white diamond earrings in platinum

Page 30: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

ute to her heritage, not a literal one, as she is able to emancipate cultural symbols and propel them into a contemporary dimension.

Besides Carnet was the first jeweller to use titanium in their designs, recognis-ing the material’s strength and lightness, a revolutionary move at the time. Soldering machines weren’t available when they first began to work with titanium over twenty years ago, and they have adhered to their traditional methods to this day. Meticulous handwork, using screws to hold components in place, is a formula that in itself adds beauty to the piece. ‘High Jewellery must be beautiful in form, function, storytelling, craftsmanship and presentation,’ she ponders, ‘it should be part of its moment in time yet timeless. My aim is, and has always been, to show the jewel as a true art form. And perhaps, most of all Jewellery should connect with the viewer or wearer, both visu-ally and emotionally.’

Naturally Michelle tends not to follow trends – either design or market ones - since she has always created the jewellery that she would personally wear, and this has been an unwavering guiding principle to this day. Furthermore she squarely consid-ers jewellery as an art form, and as such her renditions cannot be catalogued or timed. This may be the reason why she was asked to create the iconic jewellery for "The Da Vinci Code" movie and why her work has been shown in retrospective exhibitions at Asia House, the Natural History Museum in London and at the Burrell Collection in Glasgow. ‘Jewellery design, like art, is an expression of personal aesthetic, a view of the world. I want all my designs to stand as individual pieces of collectible art. Yet there is something intensely personal about buying a jewel; while the emotional connec-tion to a jewel may be similar to the connection to an artwork, there is more physicality involved in jewellery. It has to be beautiful yet wearable and has to feel comfortable to move with the body to fit with the client’s lifestyle, their personal style and wardrobe, so this brings other considerations to the purchase. Then, there’s the age-old talismanic association of the jewel, which adds an extra dimension. I like to think my signature aes-thetic creates a tangible artful fantasy.’

It appears that the women, who wear Carnet, connect with the quality, feminin-ity, the unique character and artistic integrity of Michelle’s creations, and evidently noth-ing makes her happier than seeing her designs worn by those who have an apprecia-tion for creativity, design and craftsmanship. So when JAR in person, - the elusive, cult-status jeweller for the aesthete elite of this world - writes: ‘Madame Ong's jewels are mouth-watering. There are Chinese clouds utterly different from ours, in scrolls of dia-monds; unexpected blackness with reds and greens making ferocious, billowing drag-ons we will remember; diamonds again trickling about a neck and slipping down wrists; geometry, monsters, flora, colour, a free hand making things we have never seen and will keep forever’, it becomes the ultimate seal of approval.

As a matter of fact, Carnet by Michelle Ong may be one of those rare enter-prises that appeals to the spirit through the eyes.

For further information, visit www.carnetjewellery.com

Naturally Michelle tends not to follow trends – either de-sign or market ones - since she has always created the jewellery that she would per-sonally wear, and this has been an un-wavering guiding principle to this day.

29

Page 31: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

30

Phot

o c

ourte

sy o

f CAR

NET

© C

ARNE

T

Jewellery Historian | THE ART OF CREATIVITY

Ocean Night Earrings

Pink and purple sapphire, white diamond and amethyst earrings in

18K white gold and titanium

Page 32: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

31

Phot

o c

ourte

sy o

f CAR

NET

© C

ARNE

T

Jewellery Historian | THE ART OF CREATIVITY

Page 33: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

32

Phot

o c

ourte

sy o

f CAR

NET

© C

ARNE

T

“I love to create be-jewelled "gardens" by combining fan-tasy flowers as in my ‘ W i l d M e a d o w Flower’ brooch. It is feminine yet bold, a reference to nature's beauty, but with a Carnet twist.”

Jewellery Historian | THE ART OF CREATIVITY

Page 34: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

33

Phot

o c

ourte

sy o

f CAR

NET

© C

ARNE

T

Jewellery Historian | THE ART OF CREATIVITY

Page 35: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

34

Jewellery Historian | THE ART OF CREATIVITY

White Organdy Necklace

White diamond necklace in platinum

Page 36: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

35

Phot

o c

ourte

sy o

f CAR

NET

© C

ARNE

T

Jewellery Historian | THE ART OF CREATIVITY

Moonstone in the Clouds Earrings

Moonstone, white diamond and blue sapphire earrings in 18K white

gold and silver

Page 37: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

36

Phot

o c

ourte

sy o

f CAR

NET

© C

ARNE

T

Jewellery Historian | THE ART OF CREATIVITY

Moonstone in the Clouds Bangle

Moonstone, white diamond and blue sapphire bangle in 18K white

gold and silver

Page 38: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

37

Phot

o c

ourte

sy o

f CAR

NET

© C

ARNE

T

Jewellery Historian | THE ART OF CREATIVITY

Grandeur Diamond Ring

White diamond ring in platinum

Page 39: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

38

Phot

o c

ourte

sy o

f CAR

NET

© C

ARNE

T

Jewellery Historian | THE ART OF CREATIVITY

Winter Poppy Earrings

White diamond earrings in 18K white gold

Page 40: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

39

Phot

o c

ourte

sy o

f CAR

NET

© C

ARNE

T

Jewellery Historian | THE ART OF CREATIVITY

Giverny Brooch

Emerald and white diamond brooch/pendant in 18K white gold

Page 41: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

40

Phot

o c

ourte

sy o

f CAR

NET

© C

ARNE

T

Jewellery Historian | THE ART OF CREATIVITY

Entwined in Time

White diamond timepiece in 18K white gold

Page 42: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

41

Phot

o c

ourte

sy o

f CAR

NET

© C

ARNE

T

Jewellery Historian | THE ART OF CREATIVITY

Floating Diamonds Necklace

White diamond necklace in platinum

Page 43: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

42

Phot

o c

ourte

sy o

f CAR

NET

© C

ARNE

T

Jewellery Historian | THE ART OF CREATIVITY

Precious Petal Earrings

White diamond earrings in 18K white gold

Page 44: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

43

Phot

o c

ourte

sy o

f CAR

NET

© C

ARNE

T

Jewellery Historian | THE ART OF CREATIVITY

Sparkling Lotus Bangle

White diamond, green garnet and emerald bangle in platinum

Page 45: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

44

Phot

o c

ourte

sy o

f CAR

NET

© C

ARNE

T

Jewellery Historian | THE ART OF CREATIVITY

Azure Lattice Bracelet

White diamond and blue sapphire bracelet in platinum and titanium

Page 46: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

45

Phot

o c

ourte

sy o

f CAR

NET

© C

ARNE

T

Jewellery Historian | THE ART OF CREATIVITY

Forbidden Fruit Brooch

Coral ball, white and fancy yellow diamond, spinel, ruby and orange

sapphire brooch in 18K white and yellow gold

Page 47: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

46

Phot

o c

ourte

sy o

f CAR

NET

© C

ARNE

T

Jewellery Historian | THE ART OF CREATIVITY

Fancy Floral Ring

Fancy intense pink and white diamond ring in platinum

Page 48: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

47

Phot

o c

ourte

sy o

f CAR

NET

© C

ARNE

T

Jewellery Historian | THE ART OF CREATIVITY

Page 49: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

48

Jewellery Historian | THE ART OF CREATIVITY

Emerald Embrace Timepiece

Emerald and white diamond timepiece in 18K white gold

Page 50: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

49

Phot

o c

ourte

sy o

f CAR

NET

© C

ARNE

T

Jewellery Historian | THE ART OF CREATIVITY

Pure Sparkle Necklace

White and light yellow diamond, blue, pink, purple and

yellow sapphire necklace in 18K white gold and titanium

Page 51: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

50

Phot

o c

ourte

sy o

f CAR

NET

© C

ARNE

T

Jewellery Historian | THE ART OF CREATIVITY

Majestic Sapphire ring

Blue sapphire, white diamond, pink and purple sapphire in

18K white gold and titanium

Page 52: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

51

Phot

o c

ourte

sy o

f CAR

NET

© C

ARNE

T

Jewellery Historian | THE ART OF CREATIVITY

Diamond Sea Nymph Earrings

White diamond earrings in platinum

Page 53: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

52

Phot

o c

ourte

sy o

f CAR

NET

© C

ARNE

T

Jewellery Historian | THE ART OF CREATIVITY

Diamond Fantasy Brooch

White diamond brooch in platinum and 18K white gold

Page 54: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

SPINEL

BREATHTAKING BEAUT Y OF GEMS

53

by Eva Kountouraki

It was given the nickname “the great impostor”. It has been sold, bought, stolen, inherited, and thought of as another gem for many many years. However it survived and rose to the heart of the people as an im-

portant gemstone of its own; and it deserves to be named by its own name and praised for its unique

qualities; it’s the beautiful spinel.

Page 55: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

54

Necklace "Princesse de B a b y l o n e " b y A d l e r Joailliers, in 18kt white gold and mother-of-pearl set with one cabochon spi-nel 70.49 cts and 481 dia-monds 11.56 cts

Phot

o c

ourte

sy o

f ADL

ER J

OAI

LLIE

RS ©

ADL

ER J

OAI

LLIE

RS

Jewellery Historian | BREATHTAKING BEAUTY OF GEMS

Page 56: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

It was given the nickname “the great impostor”. It has been sold, bought, stolen, inherited, and thought of as another gem for many many years. However it survived and rose to the heart of the peo-ple as an important gemstone of its own; and it deserves to be named by its own name and praised for its unique qualities; it’s the beautiful spinel.

For centuries, people were mining ruby and spinel crystals in the same sources and considered the whole production to be ruby. In fact, before modern gemology was developed, people used only the colour of the gems to categorize and identify them. As a result, every red gem was called ruby, every blue gem was considered to be sapphire, all yellows were topaz, and so on. Some of these gems of “mysterious” personality adorn historically important jewelry pieces. One such gem is the “Black Prince’s Ruby” named after Edward, Prince of Wales - the “Black Prince”- who received the stone in 1367 as payment for a battle victory. Many years later, this exceptional gem was identified as spinel, and a quite large one, with the size of an egg. This gem is now set on the front of Britain's Imperial State Crown, right above the mag-nificent Cullinan II diamond, and below the beautiful St. Edward's Sapphire.

Another historically significant gem that was thought to be a ruby but eventually turned out to be spinel is the so-called

“Timur Ruby” also referred to with the powerful name “Khiraj-i-alam” meaning “tribute to the world”. This is an important

spinel with an impressive weight of over 360cts, that until 1851 was erroneously considered to be the

world’s largest ruby.. It is set as a centerpiece in a necklace that is part of the British Crown jewels.

This gem’s large surface allowed enough space for the inscription of the names and dates of 6 of its previous owners.

Traditional sources of spinel include central and Southeast Asia, like Tajikistan –home of the above mentioned gems- Afghanistan, My-anmar, Sri Lanka and Thailand. East Africa has risen to become a very important pro-ducer of spinel, with Tanzania, among oth-ers, having produced – and still producing, some of the world’s highest quality spinels of breathtaking beauty.

Many spinel crystals are so perfect in their rough form that in Burma they are said to be

“nat thwe” or “polished by the spirits”. Their crys-tal habit is a beautiful octahedron often with sharp

and well-shaped edges that have given it its name. In fact, “spinel” most probably derives from the Latin

word “spina” which means thorn, as a reference to the

Some of these gems of “mysterious” per-sonality adorn his-torically important jewelry pieces. One s u c h g e m i s t h e “ B l a c k P r i n c e ’ s Ruby” named after Edward, Prince of Wales - the “Black P r i n c e ” - w h o r e-ceived the stone in 1367 as payment for a battle victory.

55

Jewellery Historian | BREATHTAKING BEAUTY OF GEMS

“Gothic” collection ring with red spinel by Magerit

Phot

o c

ourte

sy o

f MAG

ERIT

© M

AGER

IT

Page 57: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

Phot

o c

ourte

sy o

f MAT

HON

PARI

S ©

MAT

HON

PARI

S

Arôme ring with red spinel and diamonds by Mathon Paris

56

Jewellery Historian | BREATHTAKING BEAUTY OF GEMS

Page 58: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

points of the rough. Other etymological analyses of this name say that it may have derived from the Greek word for sparkle, referring to red spinel’s intense coloration.

Spinel comes in various colours, ranging from light pink to purple, down to blue and even black, with the strong red hue being the most desired and valued one. It is an important gemstone with a very interesting and often bloody history. A durable gem that takes a high luster and withstands everyday use, and a beauty that can be both steely and fiery. A spinel was chosen to head the Rus-sian Great Imperial crown; one large and rare spinel of over 398cts, that majestically sits on top of approximately 5000 polished diamonds, a double row of fine pearls and seven of the most his-toric stones of Russia’s diamond collection.

Since 1783 when mineralogist Jean Baptiste Louis Rome de Lisle identified spinel as a different mineral than ruby, this spe-cial gem has slowly climbed its way to the place it merits in the de-signs of gem cutters and high-end jewelry makers. After all these years of turbulent history, tales and lore, it is about time to give spi-nel its righteous place among the important gems in our markets. And this doesn’t take much, just one look at the fiery East African reds and pinks will gain spinel a central position to every gem lover’s heart... And we will continue being awestruck and surprised with the heartwarming emotions that nature offers so generously.

A spinel was chosen to head the Russian Great Imperial crown; one large and rare spinel of over 398cts, that ma-jestically sits on top of approximately 5000 polished dia-monds, a double row of fine pearls and seven of the most his-toric stones of Rus-sia’s diamond collec-tion.

57

Phot

o c

ourte

sy o

f MAR

TIN

KATZ

© M

ARTI

N KA

TZ

Jewellery Historian | BREATHTAKING BEAUTY OF GEMS

Emerald cut gray spinel of 10.29 carats ring by Mar-tin Katz, set in 18K white gold, surrounded by a bor-der of micro-set white dia-monds and a band of black diamonds, ame-thysts, blue spinels and purple sapphires.

Page 59: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

58

Catherine II by Alexey An-tropov with the Russian Great Imperial crown (left)

Phot

o in

PUB

LIC

DOM

AIN

Jewellery Historian | BREATHTAKING BEAUTY OF GEMS

Page 60: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

esthète

59

a person who has or professes to have refined sensitivity toward the beauties of art or nature.

EDITOR’S CHOICE

Page 61: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

60

An exceptional necklace by YOKO London

Page 62: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

MARIA KOVADI

COUP DE CŒUR

61

"All, everything that I understand, I only understand because I love." —

Leo Tolstoy

Page 63: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

62

Phot

o c

ourte

sy o

f MAR

IA K

OVA

DI ©

MAR

IA K

OVA

DI

Jewellery Historian | Coup de Cœur

Page 64: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

Previously a connoisseur’s secret, Maria Kovadi Fine Jewel-lery is presented to the wider audience at Baselworld 2016. The Swiss-based high-end jewellery house caters to the most discern-ing clientele wishing to highlight their individuality and distinctive thinking. Italian craftsmanship translates the poetry of the de-signer's vision into innovative, playful, extravagant and enchanting creations, which come made-to-order or in a limited edition.

Thoughtful and inspirational design instilled in each crea-tion showcases the designer’s passion for fine jewellery as an art form. Each piece tells a story, beautifully conveying the poetry of the designer’s vision.

Every jewel is carefully sourced and selected to fit the fairy-tale that is Maria Kovadi Fine Jewellery. e brand prides itself on achieving the highest levels of quality and innovation by working with the most outstanding craftsmen in Italy and using the latest technology, combined with traditional skills.

Delicately hand-crafted pieces, often playful and interactive in nature, are aimed at provoking reaction with story-telling or the design itself. Maria Kovadi pieces are a truly exceptional choice for those seeking a unique and personal way of expression through fine jewellery that can be cherished for many years to come.

Maria Kovadi is not only an exceptional designer and artist. She is also a unique person, full of love and this is definitely a plus to her success. At the Jewellery Historian we love her work, her team and we know that we can expect in the future to see more amazing creations from this talented artist.

www.kovadi.com

Thoughtful and inspi-rational design in-stilled in each crea-tion showcases the designer’s passion for fine jewellery as an art form. Each piece tells a story, beautifully convey-ing the poetry of the designer’s vision.

63

Phot

o c

ourte

sy o

f MAR

IA K

OVA

DI ©

MAR

IA K

OVA

DI

Jewellery Historian | Coup de Cœur

Page 65: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

64

Phot

o c

ourte

sy o

f MAR

IA K

OVA

DI ©

MAR

IA K

OVA

DI

Jewellery Historian | Coup de Cœur

Page 66: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

65

Phot

o c

ourte

sy o

f MAR

IA K

OVA

DI ©

MAR

IA K

OVA

DI

Jewellery Historian | Coup de Cœur

Page 67: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

66

Phot

o c

ourte

sy o

f MAR

IA K

OVA

DI ©

MAR

IA K

OVA

DI

Jewellery Historian | Coup de Cœur

Page 68: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

67

Phot

o c

ourte

sy o

f MAR

IA K

OVA

DI ©

MAR

IA K

OVA

DI

Jewellery Historian | Coup de Cœur

Page 69: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

68

Phot

o in

PUB

LIC

DOM

AIN

Phot

o c

ourte

sy o

f MAR

IA K

OVA

DI ©

MAR

IA K

OVA

DI

Jewellery Historian | Coup de Cœur

Page 70: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

MOUSSON ATELIER

SPOTLIGHT

69

Creativity is a motion, a search, it's always a little rebellion. At Mousson Atelier, they have abandoned the beaten path and stereotypes, and became inno-

vators in what they do. Creativity has become an in-tegral part of them, making them a contemporary

brand of Haute Joaillerie.

Page 71: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

70

Phot

o c

ourte

sy o

f MO

USSO

N AT

ELIE

R ©

MO

USSO

N AT

ELIE

R

Jewellery Historian | SPOTLIGHT

Page 72: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

Each bright personality is beautiful in its uniqueness. We appreciate those who can bravely make a statement and does not hesitate to reveal his or her identity every second. Mousson Atelier jewellery is unique, original and attractive - worthy setting for the extraordinary person.

Mousson Atelier was founded in 2008 in St. Petersburg, Russia. Atelier was born as a result of an alliance of professionals with over 20 years experience in creating jewelry and collecting unique gemstones.

Today Mousson Atelier keeps the family tradition of innova-tion and creates jewelry in a modern & classic style. Innovation in design and manufacturing quality are the key principles of the com-pany. We pay great importance to creating jewellery that is valu-able ultimately in its beauty. Creativity is a motion, a search, it's always a little rebellion. For this reason at Mousson Atelier they have abandoned the beaten path and stereotypes, and became

innovators in what they do. Creativity has become an inte-gral part of them, and it allows them to give rise to more and more new images!

A flash of inspiration allows them to leave the narrow frames of the ordinary life. They are able to find something beauti-ful in everything - and show it to others. Their creations are a syno-nym of beauty, setted in precious metals and stones.

They select the highest quality materials:18 K gold of differ-ent colors, precious stones of various shapes, colors, sizes and cuts. Together these components turn into a wide variety of unique creatures. The flawless creation of the jewellery is the product of advanced technologies of jewelry industry & high-grade hand work.

At the Jewellery Historian we are always honored to show-case their latest & unique creations, because their craftsmanship and excellent work is definitely of the highest possible quality, sim-ply exceptional.

Every bright person-ality is beautiful in its uniqueness. We appreciate those who can bravely make a s tatement to the world and do not hesitate to reveal their identity every second. Mousson At-e l i e r j e w e l r y i s unique, original and attractive – it is a worthy setting for an extraordinary per-son, whose essence it aims to reflect and e m p h a s i z e . Every bright person-ality is beautiful in its uniqueness.

71

Jewellery Historian | SPOTLIGHT

Page 73: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

72

Phot

o c

ourte

sy o

f MO

USSO

N AT

ELIE

R ©

MO

USSO

N AT

ELIE

R

Jewellery Historian | SPOTLIGHT

Page 74: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

73

Phot

o c

ourte

sy o

f MO

USSO

N AT

ELIE

R ©

MO

USSO

N AT

ELIE

R

Jewellery Historian | SPOTLIGHT

Page 75: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

74

Phot

o c

ourte

sy o

f MO

USSO

N AT

ELIE

R ©

MO

USSO

N AT

ELIE

R

Jewellery Historian | SPOTLIGHT

Page 76: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

75

Phot

o c

ourte

sy o

f MO

USSO

N AT

ELIE

R ©

MO

USSO

N AT

ELIE

R

Jewellery Historian | SPOTLIGHT

Page 77: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

76

Phot

o c

ourte

sy o

f MO

USSO

N AT

ELIE

R ©

MO

USSO

N AT

ELIE

R

Jewellery Historian | SPOTLIGHT

Page 78: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

77

Phot

o c

ourte

sy o

f MO

USSO

N AT

ELIE

R ©

MO

USSO

N AT

ELIE

R

Jewellery Historian | SPOTLIGHT

Page 79: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

78

Phot

o c

ourte

sy o

f MO

USSO

N AT

ELIE

R ©

MO

USSO

N AT

ELIE

R

Jewellery Historian | SPOTLIGHT

Page 80: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

79

Phot

o c

ourte

sy o

f MO

USSO

N AT

ELIE

R ©

MO

USSO

N AT

ELIE

R

Jewellery Historian | SPOTLIGHT

Page 81: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

80

Phot

o c

ourte

sy o

f MO

USSO

N AT

ELIE

R ©

MO

USSO

N AT

ELIE

R

Jewellery Historian | SPOTLIGHT

Page 82: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

81

Phot

o c

ourte

sy o

f MO

USSO

N AT

ELIE

R ©

MO

USSO

N AT

ELIE

R

Jewellery Historian | SPOTLIGHT

Page 83: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

82

Phot

o c

ourte

sy o

f MO

USSO

N AT

ELIE

R ©

MO

USSO

N AT

ELIE

R

Jewellery Historian | SPOTLIGHT

Page 84: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

83

Phot

o c

ourte

sy o

f MO

USSO

N AT

ELIE

R ©

MO

USSO

N AT

ELIE

R

Jewellery Historian | SPOTLIGHT

Page 85: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

84

Phot

o c

ourte

sy o

f MO

USSO

N AT

ELIE

R ©

MO

USSO

N AT

ELIE

R

Jewellery Historian | SPOTLIGHT

Page 86: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

85

Phot

o c

ourte

sy o

f MO

USSO

N AT

ELIE

R ©

MO

USSO

N AT

ELIE

R

Jewellery Historian | SPOTLIGHT

Page 87: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

86

Phot

o c

ourte

sy o

f MO

USSO

N AT

ELIE

R ©

MO

USSO

N AT

ELIE

R

Jewellery Historian | SPOTLIGHT

Page 88: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

BVLGARI LVCEA

EXCEPTIONAL T IMEPIECES

87

The glowing LVCEA collection expresses the inseparable ties between light and time. It radiantly embodies the per-fect balance between simplicity and sophistication, andconveys all the key characteristics of the Maison. In trib-ute to the 2,700-year history of Rome in which Bulgari is

firmly rooted, the architecture and the proportions of LVCEA evoke a tribute to luminous brightness, through an aesthetic that harnesses the power of light, or luce in

Italian.

Page 89: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

88

Phot

o c

ourte

sy o

f BUL

GAR

I © B

ULG

ARI

Jewellery Historian | EXCEPTIONAL TIMEPIECES

Page 90: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

The glowing LVCEA collection expresses the inseparable ties between light and time. It radiantly embodies the perfect bal-a n c e b e t w e e n s i m p l i c i t y a n d s o p h i s t i c a t i o n , a n d conveys all the key characteristics of the Maison. Following on from a broad array of new models presented at the start of the year, the appeal of the collection is further heightened by two new references combining 18K pink gold, steel and diamonds.

The LVCEA watch is as gentle and graceful as it is powerful and sophisticated. In tribute to the 2,700-year history of Rome in which Bulgari is firmly rooted, the architecture and the proportions of LVCEA evoke a tribute to luminous brightness, through an aes-thetic that harnesses the power of light, or luce in Italian.

The sensual lines of LVCEA reflect perfectly mastered ex-pertise testifying to the famous Italian jeweller’s ability to craft pre-cious metals. The distinctive V of the name and the LVCEA brace-let links is subtly reminiscent of the iconic Serpenti collection and its undulating models that have become signature symbols of the Bulgari style. The sleek rings of the bracelet are counter-balanced by the splendidly luminous round case. And to highlight the colour-ful jewellery virtuosity cultivated by the Maison, Bulgari adorns the crown of all LVCEA watches with a glowing crown. This cabochon-cut pink rubellite on the winding-crown lends the inimitably daring touch one has come to expect from the brand. The crown is also enhanced by a diamond that accentuates the intensely feminine nature of the model.

2015 is a particularly lavish year for the constantly growing collection. Baselworld marked the unveiling of an array of new at-tributes and new sizes for LVCEA, notably featuring straps in sap-phire blue, burgundy pink or powder pink alligator leather, as well as precious diamond-set bezels and gold links.

The ever more popular collection is also extending the scope of its seductive power. Its intense creativity is further en-riched in the autumn of 2015 by two new 18K pink gold and steel creations adorned with diamonds framing the bezel and also set on the hour-markers punctuating the mother-of-pearl dial. These two creations, appearing in 28 mm and 33 mm diameters, further complement the already impressive abundance of a collection whose radiant wealth is entirely on a par with the force of the life-giving light it embodies. >

The distinctive V of the name and the LVCEA bracelet links is subtly reminiscent of the iconic Serpenti collection and its un-dulating models that have become signa-ture symbols of the Bulgari style.

89

Jewellery Historian | EXCEPTIONAL TIMEPIECES

Page 91: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

These two creations, appearing in 28 mm and 33 mm diameters, further complement the already impressive abundance of a collection whose radi-ant wealth is entirely on a par with the force of the life-giving light it em-bodies.

90

Phot

o c

ourte

sy o

f BUL

GAR

I © B

ULG

ARI

Jewellery Historian | EXCEPTIONAL TIMEPIECES

Page 92: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

BVLGARI clothes its LVCEA collection in brilliant and glamorous High Jewellery attire.This highly exclusive collection sets a perfect stage for the jeweller’s expertise in three precious watches adorned with diamonds, rubies and emeralds. They shine a precious light on time and endow the LVCEA collection with an even more distinctive radiance.

Right from the time of its launch in 2014, LVCEA asserted itself as the new muse among BVLGARI ladies’ watches. Everything about its appearance evokes the style signatures of the Rome-based jeweller. It embodies the perfect alchemist’s blend of op-posites: roundness and linearity; light and shade; grace and sophistication. These con-trasting qualities reveal it, endow it with distinction and characterise its versatility, while contouring its material, shapes and personality. From dawn to dusk, it suffuses women’s time with the glow of its multiple incarnations: 28 mm, 33 mm and 36 mm cases, mother-of-pearl shades or guilloché effects, the sparkle of diamonds.

LVCEA is born of light. The whole nature of its emblematic design enshrines the es-sence of BVLGARI. Three new interpretations draw all eyes, elegantly and intensely reflecting the purity of light. In its new 23 mm-diameter size, this dainty jewellery watch reveals its full splendour. BVLGARI has chosen to adorn white gold with the four gems traditionally considered the most precious: diamonds, the royal stone; emeralds, the most sought-after form of beryl; as well as the two most prestigious corundum, sap-phire and ruby. In its all-diamond version issued in a five-piece limited edition, LVCEA is swept over blued hands and its crown features a sapphire cabochon set with a brilliant-cut diamond. In the interpretation adorned with rubies or emeralds, each in a three- piece edition, the bezel and bracelet are enhanced with coloured gems. Set with more than 14 carats of precious stones, the bracelet is indeed a piece of jewellery in its own right. The motif formed by the 84 baguette-cut diamonds imparts a distinctive cadence to the dial that marks of time as a reminder of the sundials that inspired it.

Combining the magnetic draw of its inimitably BVLGARI style with the sparkling radi-ance of close- set and invisible-set baguette-cut gems, the LVCEA collection literally wraps women in light.

For further information visit www.bulgari.com

Beneath the sparkle of the baguette-cut gems the gemsetter’s know-how is fully ex-pressed. Stone after stone, cut after cut, over a full 192 hours of intricate and fo-cused workmanship, he arrays LVCEA in its mantle of light

91

Jewellery Historian | EXCEPTIONAL TIMEPIECES

Page 93: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

92

LVCEA High Jewellery Emeralds

Quartz movement. 23 mm-diameter white

gold case set with 26 baguette-cut emeralds

(approx. 0.76 cts). White gold crown set with

brilliant- and baguette-cut diamonds. White

gold dial set with 84 baguette-cut diamonds

(approx. 1.81 cts). White gold bracelet set

with 210 baguette-cut diamonds (approx.

13.25 cts) and 100 buff-top cut emeralds

(approx. 2.82 cts).

Phot

o c

ourte

sy o

f BUL

GAR

I © B

ULG

ARI

Jewellery Historian | EXCEPTIONAL TIMEPIECES

Page 94: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

93

The LVCEA bracelet with its emblem-atic link endows the eponymous collec-tion with its unique and highly distinc-tive character. The object of keen and sustained attention, the bracelet of the LVCEA High Jewellery models calls for 132 hours of gemsetting alternat-ing between invisible and close setting. 310 stones of 31 different sizes adorn its 85 components. Each of its links is set with 15 stones of different sizes. The clasp link alone features 20 stones of 17 different sizes. This construction has been entirely revamped in relation to the original model.

LVCEA High Jewellery Rubies

Quartz movement. 23 mm-diameter white

gold case set with 26 baguette-cut rubies

(approx. 1.11 cts). White gold crown set with

brilliant- and baguette-cut diamonds. White

gold dial set with 84 baguette-cut diamonds

(approx. 1.81 cts). White gold bracelet set

with 210 baguette-cut diamonds (approx.

13.25 cts) and 100 buff-top cut rubies

(approx. 2.82 cts).

Phot

o c

ourte

sy o

f BUL

GAR

I © B

ULG

ARI

Jewellery Historian | EXCEPTIONAL TIMEPIECES

Page 95: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

94

LVCEA High Jewellery Diamonds

Quartz movement. 23 mm-diameter white

gold case set with 26 baguette-cut diamonds

(approx. 1.03 cts), 1 brilliant-cut diamond

(approx. 0.02 cts) and 1 sapphire (approx. 0.54

cts). White gold dial set with 84 baguette-cut

diamonds (approx. 1.64 cts). White gold

bracelet set with 310 baguette-cut diamonds

(approx. 14.01 cts).

Phot

o c

ourte

sy o

f BUL

GAR

I © B

ULG

ARI

Jewellery Historian | EXCEPTIONAL TIMEPIECES

Page 96: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

S95

comme

Style

wond

er33

/ S

HUTT

ERST

OCK

. CO

M

Page 97: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

96

Page 98: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

97

Celebrity favorites, Maria Lucia Hohan’s dresses are spotted on the red carpet at almost all Hollywood events that make headlines.

 Upon preparing to become an interior designer, Maria found herself to be more attracted to fashion design

and in the end she graduated a top school in Paris, with a master in textile design. Her amazing sense of fabrics went from passion to business only to become later on, a signature: an amazing color palette declined on silk fabrics care-fully selected and custom dyed for each season.

 She ended up creating a new category of evening gowns, fresh, young, simple and sophisticated. “I couldn’t

find a gown that suited my age and style. I never liked the classic prom dresses, nor the bridal guest type. I felt the need to create a new kind of silhouette and texture” she explains.

 Her vision is highly appreciated by A list stars stepping on the red carpet. From Jennifer Lopez wearing MLH

in the video productions of her latest tour and on the red carpet, to Dita von Teese, Catherine Zeta Jones, Sophia Ver-gara, Eva Longoria, Taylor Swift, Vanessa Hudgens, Kim Kardashian, Nicole Scherzinger, Giuliana Rancic or Jennifer Hudson, they all got great reviews from fashion critics and the public. Editorials, magazine covers, red carpet events or even advertising campaigns for celebrity owned brands are now featuring MLH creations, establishing Maria Lucia Hohan as an important name among the new wave of fashion designers.

Maria Lucia Hohan

Jewellery Historian | S comme STYLE

Style

Page 99: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

98

Jewellery Historian | S comme STYLE

Phot

o c

ourte

sy o

f MAR

IA L

UCIA

HO

HAN

© M

ARIA

LUC

IA H

OHA

N

Page 100: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

99

Jewellery Historian | S comme STYLE

Phot

o c

ourte

sy o

f MAR

IA L

UCIA

HO

HAN

© M

ARIA

LUC

IA H

OHA

N

Page 101: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

100

Jewellery Historian | S comme STYLE

Phot

o c

ourte

sy o

f MAR

IA L

UCIA

HO

HAN

© M

ARIA

LUC

IA H

OHA

N

Page 102: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

101

Jewellery Historian | S comme STYLE

Page 103: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

102

Jewellery Historian | S comme STYLE

Phot

o c

ourte

sy o

f MAR

IA L

UCIA

HO

HAN

© M

ARIA

LUC

IA H

OHA

N

Page 104: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

103

Jewellery Historian | S comme STYLE

Phot

o c

ourte

sy o

f MAR

IA L

UCIA

HO

HAN

© M

ARIA

LUC

IA H

OHA

N

Page 105: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

104

Jewellery Historian | S comme STYLE

Phot

o c

ourte

sy o

f MAR

IA L

UCIA

HO

HAN

© M

ARIA

LUC

IA H

OHA

N

Page 106: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

105

OPENCALL

new talents

Page 107: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

106

You are a young fashion designer or a young jewelelry designer ? You want to see your creations in the Jewellery Historian ?

Go to our website and submit material today !

www.jewelleryhistorian.com > contact us

Page 108: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

107

JewelsweLoveIn every issue we handpick the finest jewellery for you to choose, enabling you to add a sophisticated, elegant

touch to the most important times of your life. Previously known as “Our Faves”, this new column introduces you to our favorite jewellery, designed by the most talented

jewellery designers.

Jewellery Historian | Jeweks we Love

Page 109: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

108

Jewellery Historian | Jewels we Love

Svet

lana

miku

/ SH

UTTE

RSTO

CK .

COM

Page 110: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

109

Jewellery Historian | Jewels we Love

Palmiero

Page 111: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

110

Jewellery Historian | Jewels we Love

Harry Kotlar

Page 112: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

111

Antonini

Jewellery Historian | Jewels we Love

Page 113: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

112

Jewellery Historian | Jewels we Love

Arthus-Bertrand

Page 114: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

113

Jewellery Historian | Jewels we Love

Zaffiro

Page 115: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

114

Sutra

Jewellery Historian | Jewels we Love

Page 116: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

115

Jewellery Historian | Jewels we Love

Lydia Courteille

Page 117: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

116

Butani

Jewellery Historian | Jewels we Love

Page 118: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

117

Alexia Jordan

Jewellery Historian | Jewels we Love

Page 119: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

118

Gaelle Khouri

Jewellery Historian | Jewels we Love

Page 120: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

119

Djula

Jewellery Historian | Jewels we Love

Page 121: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

Borgioni

120

Jewellery Historian | Jewels we Love

Page 122: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

121

Caspita

Jewellery Historian | Jewels we Love

Page 123: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

122

Jewellery Historian | Jewels we Love

Roberto Coin

Page 124: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

123

Boucheron

Jewellery Historian | Jewels we Love

Page 125: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

124

Michael Aram

Jewellery Historian | Jewels we Love

Page 126: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

125

Jewellery Historian | Jewels we Love

Pasquale Bruni

Page 127: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

126

Jewellery Historian | Jewels we Love

Morphée Joaillerie

Page 128: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

127

Jewellery Historian | Jewels we Love

Bavna

Page 129: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

128

Jewellery Historian | Jewels we Love

Fabergé

Page 130: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

Nikos Koulis

129

Jewellery Historian | Jewels we Love

Page 131: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

130

Goralska

Jewellery Historian | Jewels we Love

Page 132: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

Leticia Linton

131

Jewellery Historian | Jewels we Love

Page 133: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

132

Jewellery Historian | Jewels we Love

Mousson Atelier

Page 134: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

133

Yoko London

Jewellery Historian | Jewels we Love

Page 135: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

134

Avakian

Jewellery Historian | Jewels we Love

Page 136: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

135

Mathon

Jewellery Historian | Jewels we Love

Page 137: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

136

Zolotas

Jewellery Historian | Jewels we Love

Page 138: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

137

Bulgari

Jewellery Historian | Jewels we Love

Page 139: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

138

Magerit

Jewellery Historian | Jewels we Love

Page 140: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

139

INSPIRATIONSPRÊT-À-PORTER | INTERIOR DESIGN | ACCESSORIES | TRAVEL | LIFESTYLE | BOOKS

Jewellery Historian | INSPIRATIONS

nata

liaku

l / S

HUTT

ERST

OCK

. CO

M

Page 141: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

140

Jewellery Historian | INSPIRATIONS

Page 142: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

141

Jewellery Historian | INSPIRATIONS

The A380 is coming to Mexico

This winter, Air France is offering six weekly frequencies

between Paris-Charles de Gaulle and Mexico. Starting on 12

January 2016, three weekly flights are operated by Airbus

A380, the Company’s largest super jumbo (Tuesday, Thursday

and Saturday). The three other flights are operated by Boeing

777-300. From 27 March 2016, the A380 will fly between the

two cities daily.

On board, customers have the option of travelling in four

flight cabins ensuring optimum comfort – La Première,

Business, Premium Economy and Economy.

Book your ticket at www.airfrance.com

H&M Conscious Exclusive 2016 − Historic art

inspires fashion for the future

H&M is proud to announce a collaboration with the Musée des

Arts Décoratifs located in the Palais du Louvre in Paris to

celebrate the new H&M Conscious Exclusive collection. This

beautiful new range has been inspired by the archives of the

museum, and will be launched on Thursday 7th April to

coincide with the opening of the hotly anticipated exhibition,

Fashion forward - Three centuries of fashion. H&M is

delighted to also reveal that Parisian art director, style maven

and sustainability champion, Julia Restoin Roitfeld, will be

the face of the campaign.

www.hm.com

Page 143: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

142

For the women’s Pre-Spring collection we see key com- ponents as knits

and blazers that define a classic look, modified with full attention to the

perfect cut to create a feminine edge. Wear the blazer with a slightly looser

top and a pair of slim chinos to maintain balance. Add a pair of sneakers in

soft leather to get the clean and simple sporty chic look. For the special

occasions of the season, silks, cashmere, fine wool and gold detailing are

used to enhance the overall luxurious and sophisticated feel.

www.gant.com

GANT PRE-SPRING 2016

For Pre-Spring 2016 GANT serves game, set and match, in true American

Sportswear spirit. The collection is clean and simple in crisp white with pops of

color. The silhouette is narrow and straight and the garments are lightweight to

enhance sporty features. It is a contemporary take on a sporty base where a

brave color pallet is mixed beautifully with white and black. This Pre-Spring

collection defines the essence of understated chic.

Chinos in bright and dark colors represent the base for the Pre-Spring men’s

collection. Wear it with the sweater with the tennis racket patterns, which

permeates the theme of the collection. To increase the sporty look, add the

sneak- ers in soft leather; it looks great together with a white shirt and a pair of

chinos.

Combine sporty influences with more formal items to give the look an everyday

ease. Inspired by our Ivy League heritage, we created an elegant blazer with

clean lines, focused on the perfect cut and the details, so look closely to detect

perfection.

Jewellery Historian | INSPIRATIONS

Page 144: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

143

Jacket (H&M)

Jewellery Historian | INSPIRATIONS

Navy hills (GANT)

Scarf ( GANT )

Dress ( GANT )

Handbag ( GANT )

Page 145: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

144

Top (H&M)

Jewellery Historian | INSPIRATIONS

Jeans ( GANT )

Earrings ( Baccarat)

Suede shoes (H&M)

Handbag ( GANT )

Page 146: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

145

Jewellery Historian | INSPIRATIONS

Pine-Forest scented candle(H&M)

All products H&M

Elegant bedding by GANT

Bedding (GANT)

Page 147: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

146

Pillow ( GANT )

Plate ( H&M )

All products by GANT

All products by H&M

Jewellery Historian | INSPIRATIONS

Page 148: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

147

Suede pumps (H&M)

Dress (GANT)

Jewellery Historian | INSPIRATIONS

Handbag ( GANT )

Ring ( Baccarat)

Page 149: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

148

Top (H&M)

Jewellery Historian | INSPIRATIONS

Pants (GANT)

Shoes (H&M)

Blazer (GANT)

Sunglasses(H&M)

Page 150: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

149

Jewellery Historian | INSPIRATIONS

All products by GANT

Towel ( GANT )

Swimwear ( GANT )

Page 151: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

150

Jewellery Historian | INSPIRATIONS

All products by H&M

Vase ( H&M )

Pillow ( H&M )

Page 152: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

151

Bookaddress

Plus

ONE

/ SHU

TTER

STO

CK .

COM

Page 153: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

152

ADLERwww.adler.ch

ALEXIA JORDANwww.alexiajordanjewellery.com

ANTONINIwww.antonini.it

ARTHUS BERTRANDwww.arthus-bertrand.fr

AVAKIANwww.avakian.com

BACCARATwww.baccarat.com

BAVNAwww.bavna.com

BORGIONIwww.borgionis.com

BOUCHERONwww.boucheron.com

BULGARIwww.bulgari.com

BUTANIwww.butani.com

CARNETwww.carnetjewellery.com

CASPITAwww.caspita.ch

CHRISTIE’Swww.christies.com

DJULAwww.djula.fr

FABERGÉwww.faberge.com

GANTwww.gant.com

GAELLE KHOURIwww.gaellekhouri.com

GORALSKAwww.goralska.com

GUCCI Jewelry & Timespieceswww.guccitimeless.com

HARRY KOTLARwww.harrykotlar.com

H&Mwww.hm.com

LETICIA LINTONwww.lbldesign.com.br

LYDIA COURTEILLEwww.lydiacourteille.com

MAGERITwww.mageritjoyas.com

MARIA KOVADIwww.kovadi.com

MARIA LUCIA HOHANwww.mlh-shop.com

MARTIN KATZwww.martinkatz.com

MATHONwww.mathon-paris.com

MICHAEL ARAMwww.michaelaram.com

MORPHÉE JOAILLERIE www.morphee-joaillerie.com

MOUSSON ATELIERwww.moussonatelier.com

NIKOS KOULISwww.nikoskoulis.gr

PALMIEROwww.palmierogioielli.com

PASQUALE BRUNIwww.pasqualebruni.com

ROBERTO COINwww.robertocoin.com

SUTRAwww.sutrajewels.com

ULYSSE NARDINwww.ulysse-nardin.com

YOKO LONDONwww.yokolondon.com

ZAFFIROwww.zaffirojewelry.com

ZOLOTASwww.zolotas.gr

Page 154: Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

153

www.jewelleryhistorian.com

CONR

ADO

/ SH

UTTE

RSTO

CK .

COM