OCTOBER  2015  

N E W Y O R K - L O N D R E S - M I L A N - P A R I S

FASHIONSHOW REPORT SPRING-SUMMER 16

 

INTRODUCTION

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The  fashion  shows  spring-­‐summer  16,  that  closed  down  the  7th  of  October  in  Paris,  highlightened  the  fact  that  there  are  two  main  ways  of  conceving  the  silhoueFe  for  next  season.    From  New  York  to  Paris,  passing  by  London  and  Milano,  one  can  see  on  one  side  the  pro  supple  fashion,moving,  someOmes  destructered,  and  on  the  other  hand  the  pro  constructed  fashion,  more  precise,  with  strong  graphic  codes.    On  one  side  the  romanOc  heroines,  the  vestals  of  tomorrow,  the  random  layerings,  on  the  other  side  the  sporty  chic,  the  pop-­‐manga  designers  and  the  street-­‐couture.  The  same  opposiOon  can  be  found  about  the  short  or  long  lenghts,  which  resumes  the  biggest  quesOon  of  the  season.  On  the  contrary  there  are  also  ultra  unifying  arguments,  like  for  example,  the  omnipresent  frills,  that  are  declined  in  mulOple  ways  :mermaid,  romanOc,  laOno,  design,  couture…..    And  then  there  are  the  unclassified  shows,  the  outsiders  who  create  the  surprise,  those  we  didn’t  expect  and  who  impacted  by  their  true  personnel  and  different  approach.  In  Paris  we  see  new  talents  emerging,  edgy  and  out  of  sync,  outsiders  of  the  tradiOonal  fashion-­‐system,  underground  but  already  hype  :  Clothes  of  which  one  of  the  founders  will  be  taking  over  the  management  at  Balenciaga,  like  the  Finnish-­‐Parisian  Aalto  or  again  Koché.    Also  for  The  big  luxury  brands,  we  disOnguish  two  different  creaOve  strategies:  liFeraly  pulverize  the  house  codes  like  with  J.W  Anderson  at  Loewe  or  deepen  the  legiOmate  territory  by  pushing  one’s  own  limits    like  Miuccia  Prada  for  Miu  Miu.  Because  it’s  vital  to  create  the  buzz  and  to  impact,  secular  brands  like  Louis  VuiFon  know  it  all  too  well.  

FOCUS ON COLOR

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THE FRESH TREND: ROSE PETALS TILL HYDRANGEA

ASHISH   CEDRIC  CHARLIER   EUDON  CHOI   MISSONI  

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SOFT AND MELLOW: THE FRUITY ORANGES, MANGO, APRICOT

ICEBERG  PAUL  SMITH   BALMAIN   CELINE  JONATHAN  SAUNDERS  

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RED STAR: THE SPARKLE OF THE CORAL TILL ELECTRIC GRENADINE

FENDI   VERA  WANG   EDUN   JIL  SANDER  

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HEAVY METAL,METALLIC IRIDESCENCE

PACO  RABANNE   PAUL&JOE   MCQ   FELDER  FELDER  

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PRINT FOCUS

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FOLLOW THE VERTICAL STRAIGHT LINE IN SCALE VARIATIONS

VERSACE   VERONIQUE  LEROY   COSTUME  NATIONAL   JONATHAN  SAUNDERS  PRADA  

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NEW, THE PLAY WITH TRANSPARENCY

LUXURIOUS GARDEN VS NOSTALGIC FLORETS

CALVIN  KLEIN   DAKS   GIAMBASTTISTA  VALLI   ERDEM  GUCCI  

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FABRIC FOCUS

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THE PUNCHED; PERFORATED EYELETS, GEOMETRIC OPENWORKS

MSGM   AKRIS   MAX  MARA  SONIA  RYKIEL  

AU

JO

UR

LE

JOU

R

MSG

M

AU

JO

UR

LE

JOU

R

ASHISH  

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ARTY EXPERIMENTATION IN PRINT/FABRIC PATCHWORK

PREEN   MARNI   LACOSTE  JULIEN  DAVID  

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GIA

MBA

TTIS

TA V

ALL

I

FOCUS ON PRODUCTS & DETAILS

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LE NÉO JOGGING

PAUL&JOE   CHLOE  ELIE  SAAB  MOTHER  OF  PEARLS  

COME BACK OF THE TRAINING-UIT: IN URBAN CHIC VERSION OR TWISTED IN SPORTSWEAR ROMANTIC STYLE

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FLY AWAY IN FRILLS&FLOUNCES OR PETTICOAT SKIRTS

ROBERTO  CAVALLI   FYODOR  GOLAN   SALVATORE  FERRAGAMO  

LEONARD  PARIS   MSGM  

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SIMPLY MY BABYDOLL DRESS

CALVIN  KLEIN   ROCHAS   GUCCI  CHLOE  

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SHOULDERS IN CONTRAST: NAKED OR PUFFED

PRINGLE  OF  SCOTLAND   ROLAND  MOURET   JW  ANDERSON  FENDI  CHRISTIAN  DIOR  

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FOCUS ON ACCESSORIES

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ACCESSOIRES

ROBERTO  CAVALLI   MSGM  

ALEXANDER  WANG   BURBERRY  PRORSUM  MARNI   VERONIQUE  LEROY  

ROLAND  MOURET  CALVIN  KLEIN  

OSMAN  

PAUL  SMITH  

BELTS:  EXTRA  LARGE  OR  SUPER  THIN    IN  «  RECYCLED  »  TIE  TO  KNOT  

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MAXI  CHAINS  VS  THIN  DECORATIVE  CHAINS    ON  DROP  EARRINGS  OR  AS  A  HARNESS  

ACCESSORIES

LACOSTE   DKNY  

THE  CUT  OUT  EXTRA  FLAT  BAGS  AND  POUCHES  

EACH&OTHER   VIONNET  

THE  CUBIC  OR  RIGID  BAGS  

HERMES   MAISON  MARGIELA  

SALVATORE  FERRAGAMO   CELINE  

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ACCESSOIRES

HERMES   ICEBERG  

EACH&OTHER   JIL  SANDER    HUGO  BOSS  

EXTRA  FLAT  TAP  SHOES  OR  OR  WEDGE  HEELS  

GIVENCHY   CELINE   PAUL&JOE  MARC  JACOBS  

JIL  SANDER   LACOSTE  PETER  PILOTTO  

THE  SHARP  TIPS  IN  CLOG  OR  WESTERN  VERSION  

THE  NEW  MULES:  SHARP  OR  ROUND  TIP,  SQUARE  OR  STILETTO  HEELS  

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CONFIRMATION OF CARLIN’S THEMES

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TEAMS

SONIA  BY  SONIA  RYKIEL   CARLIN   LACOSTE   COURREGES   CARVEN  

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CITY SPORTSWEAR WITH RELAXED ELEGANCE AND PLAYFUL MINIMALISM.

TAKES

DKNY   CALVIN  KLEIN   DEREK  LAM   CARLIN   MICHAEL  KORS  

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A LOOK WITH MASCULIN DISTINCTIVENESS TINGED WITH CONTEMPORARY CHARM.

DESERTS

NICHOLAS  K   HERMES   CARLIN   BARBARA  BUI   APC  

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A NEW NOMAD WARDROBE MIXING SENSALITY AND URBAN MODERNITY.

EPIC

CARLIN   ANTONIO  BERARDI   MARY  KATRANTZOU   FAUSTO  PUGLISI   CHLOÉ  

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ORIENTAL GLAMOUR FOR A WARDROBE HIGHLIGHTED BY ORNEMETAL TOUCHES.

THE STREETSTYLE FAVORITES

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THE STREETSTYLE FAVORITES

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«  PO

P  »  VS

 MONAC

AL  

70’S  STYLE  DEN

IM  +  SUED

E    

VS  SPO

RTY  URB

AN  

IN THE HEART OF PARIS FASHION WEEK

hFp://trendydoggy.com  29

MERCI THANK YOU

Groupe Carlin International – 79 rue de Miromesnil 75008 Paris, France