Transforming Science Into Dreams:gTaking A Closer Look

by Agnes Meilhacwww.beautyterm.com

Cosmetics

from the Greek “kosmetikos” or skilled at d t

Cosmetics

adornment

“ ti l i t d d t b bb d “articles intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled, or sprayed on,

i t d d i t th i li d t introduced into, or otherwise applied to the human body… for cleansing,

b tif i ti tt ti beautifying, promoting attractiveness, or altering the appearance”

CFD&C Act

Cosmetics: Part of Our Culture and Civilization

Global Overview: the Cosmetics Industry Todaythe Cosmetics Industry Today

The Worldwide Cosmetics Market 1993 – 2009Average annual growth rate + 4.2%

Source: L’Oreal estimates, September 2010

Market Structure and Size

Source: L’Oreal, 2008

Top 10 Global Cosmetics Companies:55% Total Market Sales55% Total Market Sales

Source: L’Oreal, June 2009

Main Business Segments

Source: L’Oreal estimates, 2008, excl. soap, toothpaste and razors

Defining Factors

l dExternal trade

R&D and Innovation

Advertising / sales ratio

An Industry Geared Toward Exports

Size of exports in € by country relative to the size of the domestic market (2006)

80%90% EU27

US

50%60%70%80%

JapanChinaGermany

30%40%50% France

UKItalyS i

0%10%20% Spain

Cosmetics Industry: R & D d I tiR & D and Innovation

7,000

8,000Progression in the number of patents published

5,000

6,000ChinaJapan

2 000

3,000

4,000JapanUSEU27

0

1,000

2,000

01980 1985 1990 1995 2000 2005

Source: European Patent Office (EPO)

Advertising Over Sales Ratio

25.00% Cosmetic advertising expenditure = $2.2 bn (2005)

15 00%

20.00%

25.00%

5 00%

10.00%

15.00%

0.00%

5.00%

c d y s n e r e

cosm

etic

food

pharmac

ywire

less

mmunicatio

nsof

twar

emi co

nductor

fe insu

rance

p

comm

semi life

Advertising / sales ratio across different industries in the US (2005)

What Innovation?What Technology?

Waterproof mascara that does not run

Anti-dandruff shampoos

Face powder that eliminates shiny skin

Light-reflecting pigments concealing shadows under the eyes

Sun creams (protection against harmful UV rays)

Self-tanning products

Today’s Brands y

Are DefinedAre Defined

by

INNOVATION(Handout p. 4)

Innovation: from Science to Language

Language of Cosmetics

Lexical Syntactic Rhetorical

Loan words Present tenseLoan wordsNeologismsVerbs Verbal adjectives

Present tenseActive vs. Passive ToneImpersonalImperatives

Metaphors, similes and metonymyPersonificationadjectives

BuzzwordsImperatives Personification

Superlatives

The Language of Cosmetics: S i ifi T h i l Ad i i P h k?Scientific, Technical, Advertising or Patchwork?

(Handout p. 1)

i / advertisingscience /technology

What Makes the Difference?

Lexical FeaturesLexical Features

Borrowings Neologisms Buzzwords&

catchphrases

Role of verbs

catchphrases

Loan Words in Translation: Intentional StrategyIntentional Strategy

1 From another language (culturally bound 1. From another language (culturally-bound concepts difficult to translate)

Last resort for want of a better solution or preserving elements of SL culture -> flacon, ampoule, pipette, burette, crème, enfleurage, camouflage makeup, fondant (*)

2. From another field of expertiseVinay & Darbelnet (1958): y ( )The simplest of all translation methods to overcome a lacuna 

(gap), usually a metalinguistic one (e.g. a new technical process an unknown concept)process, an unknown concept)

-> stem cells, growth factor, DNA, free radicals, oxidative stress

e“Fondant” B tt lt i hi

bsi

te Buttery, meltaway, vanishing, rich and creamy, divinely luscious, luxurious, sumptuous?

MAT‐CHRONO

web

, , p

Moisturizing emulsion

Enriched with moisturizing and instant‐any

action mattifying agents, this astonishingly fresh‐textured, fondant emulsion leaves skin looking ideally shine‐free and feeling moisturized from the moment ofom

pa

moisturized from the moment of application. Soft‐focus pigments work to conceal the appearance of skin irregularities. The skin’s texture looks more 

UK

co

refined.

http://www.lierac.com/UK/products/face/hydration/mat-chrono_hydrationanti-shine/moisturizingemulsion.html

U

e

Mat‐Chrono Émulsion

bsi

te

Moisturizing Emulsion

web

Exclusively formulated to prevent and treat shiny skin and enlarged pores, this cream for day time contains a an

y w

yTriple Action Complex that improves skin’s elasticity, regulates the t‐zone and tightens pores. Oil‐Free.

ompa

$44.00  1.42 OZ

US

co

http://www.lierac-usa.com/Products/Mat-Chrono%20Emulsion.aspx

U

Linguistic Mutation orFrenglish / Denglish / Spanglish?

Language evolves over time as usage hchanges.

“... many borrowings enter a language throughlanguage through translation...” *

* Vinay & Darbelnet (1958)

Loan Words in Translation: Intentional StrategyIntentional Strategy

1. From another language (culturally-bound concepts difficult to translate)

Last resort for want of a better solution or preserving elements of SL culture elements of SL culture -> flacon, ampoule, pipette, burette, crème, enfleurage, camouflage makeup, fondant

2. From another field of expertiseVinay & Darbelnet (1958): The simplest of all translation methods to overcome a lacuna 

(gap), usually a metalinguistic one (e.g. a new technical process an unknown concept)process, an unknown concept)

-> stem cells, growth factor, DNA, free radicals, oxidative stress

Aquacurrent Science by P&G-

Aquacurrent Science: Moving Moisture Where It's Needed.Water is the universal solvent - central to life on earth and essential to overall health, beauty and wellness. While skin care and hair care products have traditionally focused on "locking-in" water moisture, the recent discovery of micro-channels underneath the skin's surface underscores the importance of releasing and channeling water to maintain healthy skin.

Th N b l P i i i di f i t i i ti f ti The Nobel Prize-winning discovery of aquaporins, proteins consisting of tiny micro-channels embedded in the skin cell walls underneath the skin's surface, is providing scientists with a new and better target to retain and enhance moisture in the skin.

Aquacurrent Science, inspired by the discovery of aquaporins, is the basis of unique product formulations that utilize the natural properties of water to help move moisture where it's needed for the best possible results. Click below to learn

b t li ti f thi i ti i more about applications of this innovative science.

http://www.pgbeautygroomingscience.com/aquacurrents.html=

Aquaporin Technology by DIOR

Dior adds a luxurious helping hand to dry, parched skin with their legendaryDior adds a luxurious helping hand to dry, parched skin with their legendary HydrAction Collection—the ultimate moisturizing arsenal for normal, dry, and combination skin. From sorbet‐light crèmes to effective refining treatments, Dior's skin‐soothing secret weapon—Aquacapt™ Complex—helps reinforce g p q p p pyour complexion's natural moisture reserves to keep it feeling soft and hydrated all day long.

5 phrases for talking about HYDRACTION ?Activity

2003 Aquaporin 200521 3

in 1 second, encourages the passage of 1 billion water molecules

4 5

ON THE SURFACE:Immediate hydration

INTENSE AND ACTIVE HYDRATION TEST RESULTSafter only 1 application to the skin

+ 77% in immediate hydration

4 5

DEEP WITHIN: Long-term hydration

yThe cells are brimming with moisture

Water circulation is activated

77% y

+ 30% in 24-hour hydration

D h d ti li di th ki Water circulation is activated, skin replenished with moisture

Dehydration lines disappear, the skin feels suppler, refreshed, plumper, more

luminous and comfortable.

Loan Words: Borrowed from Science

i i • hydratemoisturize

• exfoliatescrub

• regeneraterevitalize

dehydration, keratinization, detoxification, hyperpigmentation, comedogenicity, post‐inflammatory response, phototoxic g y, p f y p , preaction, free radicals, antioxidants, trophicity, dystrophy, collagen synthesis, cellular metabolism, lipolysis, lipogenesis, sebum secretion enzymatic trigger glycation keratolyticsebum secretion, enzymatic trigger, glycation, keratolytic, extracellular matrix, dermis, epidermis, stratum corneum, etc. 

CalquesVinay & Darbelnet (1958): A special kind of borrowing, resulting in either:

• A lexical calque (borrowed word translated literally): d ti ti l ttifliterally): dermocosmetics, cosmeceuticals, mattify, photo‐aging (short for photo‐induced aging), de‐stress, de‐wrinkle...

• A structural calque (borrowed expression with each of its elements translated into TL): optical corrector pigments (pigments correcteurs optiques, Nuxe), head note (also: top note), heart note (also: middle note), palpate and roll massage (palper rouler) external aggressionspalpate and roll massage (palper rouler), external aggressions (stress factors), cosmeto‐clinical trial, barrier function, ...

Calques: Examplesde-stress (FR: déstresser): “Elemis Soothing Chamomile Cleanser is a hypoallergenic, cooling, cleansing milk that removes impurities and make-up whilst calming and de-stressing the most sensitive skins.

It i f l t d ith h i i t t f G Ch il It is formulated with harmonizing extracts of German Chamomile that soothe and de-stress the skin. Good for extra sensitive, delicate and hormonal skin.”

de-wrinkle (FR: dérider): “L’Oréal Dermo Expertise Age Perfect Cleansing Milkp g gEnriched with magnesium, known for its revitalizing properties and vitamin C known for its energizing properties, the formula:--Helps to de-wrinkle the skin and reduce the signs of fatigue in mature skin.--Hydrates the skin”

The Alternative: ParaphrasingThe Alternative: ParaphrasingFR: décongestionner eliminate / remove / clear

embedded impurities and toxins, calm swollen areas

FR: désincruster deep-cleanse (unclog the pores)

FR: défatiguer revitalize invigorate stimulateFR: défatiguer revitalize, invigorate, stimulate

FR:dé i filt li i t fl id ddésinfiltrer eliminate excess fluids, reducedégonfler puffiness, reduce edema/swellingdésengorger by improved re-absorption anddrainer drainage of retained liquids and

toxins, calm swollen areas (Nuxe)

Neologisms:N W d F i / N M iNew Word Formations / New Meaning

“newly coined lexical units or existing lexical units that acquire a new sense” (Newmark, 2001:140)

Established: moisturizer / concealer

i i i iMore recent coinages: bronzer, volumizer, luminizer / luminizing (YSL), highlighter, complexion-brightener (Dior), booster, corrector, crepiness, glide-on, youth ( ), , , p , g , ygrafter (Helena Rubinstein) cosmeceuticals, nanoparticulate, MYO-aging (L'Oréal), photoaging, dermobiotic (LRP) Lipo-Hydroxy-Acid or LHA (LRP for dermobiotic (LRP), Lipo-Hydroxy-Acid or LHA (LRP for capryloyl salicylic acid)

Creative Compounding:E i U i E li h Ad i i LExtensive Use in English Advertising Language

body enhancing body sculpting body-enhancing, body-sculpting, body-contouring, figure-slimming, FR: amincissantskin-tensing, slimming

shine‐free acne‐prone

bring‐along take‐anywhere

wrinkle‐fillingfilm‐formingacne prone 

(instead of acneic)longer‐lastingquick absorbing

take anywhereon‐the‐go (FR: nomade)radiance boosting

film forming (= filmogenic) pick‐me‐up (noun and adj)quick‐absorbing

brush‐onmust‐have

radiance‐boostingskin‐liftingpore‐clarifying

(noun and adj)touch‐upfatigue‐busting(déf )light‐reflecting, 

natural‐lookinglipid‐replenishing (FR: relipidant)

(défatiguant)

Brand-Specific Concepts:

Translating brand-specific concepts = translating

a Question of “Corporate Culture”a s a g b a d spec c co cep s a s a g

culture-specific concepts (CSCs)Possibilities:

Paraphrase: explain the meaning of the SL expression instead of translating it

Modulation: use a TL term that seems similar to or has the same "relevance" as the SL term

Loan / borrowing: preserve the SL term intact

Neologism: make up a new word

The Never-Ending Struggle:Finding the Right Balance

(Handout p 5)Venuti (1995):To domesticate or to foreignize?

(Handout p. 5)

To domesticate or to foreignize?

“peau intolérante”

hypersensitive hypersensitive i t l ti t l tskin skin  intolerant 

skinintolerant 

skin

The Never-Ending Struggle:Finding the Right Balance

Venuti (1995):To domesticate or to foreignize?

“fixer la lumière”

reflect lightreflect lightreflect lightreflect lighthold lighthold light

« Chaque harmonie se compose de six teintes, parmi trois familles de couleurs, spécifiquement choisies pour recréer un éclat sur mesure : -- Des couleurs correctrices pastel pour rectifier la tonalité de la peau. Le vert atténue le trop de rose des teints clairs ; le rose dé i l t i t t l bl déj it l t i t f ti é l dégrise les teints ternes ; le bleu déjaunit les teints fatigués ; le mauve fixe la lumière et éclaircit les zones d’ombres de tous les teints. »

“Each color harmony is comprised of six shades, from three different color families, which were specially chosen to recreate customized radiance: - Corrective pastel colors to even out skin tone. Green diminishes the excessive pink hue in fair skin; pink adds a healthy glow to a dull complexion; blue takes the yellow tone out of tired skin; mauve reflects / sets or holds light and adds brightness to mauve reflects / sets or holds light and adds brightness to shadowed areas in all complexions.”

Brand-Specific Choices:Combinations vs. Consistency

puffiness and swelling puffy bags

under eyesg

dark [ (under)eye ]

under eyes

[ (under)eye ] circles  / shadows

puffy, undereye

bagsbaggy eyes

Buzzwords and Catchphrases:Dynamic Equivalence in ActionDynamic Equivalence in Action

Translation approach based on the “principle of equivalent effect” and tailoring the message to the receptor’s linguistic needs and cultural expectations

anti-aging: age-decelerating (Clinique),

receptor s linguistic needs and cultural expectations…(Nida, 1964)

anti aging: age decelerating (Clinique),age-defying, age-reversing, age-perfecting, age-deflecting, de-aging

anti-aging, the Baby Boomer version:pro-youth, pro-age, preserving, image extending, youth extending

or D

ioe b

y V

ie d

e ’O

r L

Product Benefits and Results: V b d V b l Adj tiVerbs and Verbal Adjectives

C t d t b d t Cus tomers do no t buy a p roduc t ; they buy the bene f i t s and resu l t s i t a f f o rds

them.“Up” verbs “Down”verbsUp  verbs Down verbs

activate, boost, accelerate, energize reduce, diminish, lessen, decrease

ease, alleviate, soothe, appease, relieve attenuate, minimize, soften, eraseease, alleviate, soothe, appease, relieve attenuate, minimize, soften, erase

fortify, strengthen, nourish, nurture rid / free (the skin), eliminate, remove

stimulate, invigorate relax, de‐stress, de‐wrinkle

smooth, even out, plump up, firm mask, hide, conceal, disguise, 

improve, enhance, emphasize fight, combat, battle

illuminate, brighten, suffuse with… de‐emphasize

Product Benefits and Results: V b d V b l Adj ti

V b ith th fi

Verbs and Verbal Adjectives

Verbs with the prefix –re (intention to produce a better result):

r e d e s i g n t h e f a c i a l o u t l i n e s

r e s t r u c t u r e t h e i n t e r c e l l u l a r c e m e n t ,

r e p l e n i s h m o i s t u r e r e s e r v e s ,

r e n e w c o l l a g e n f i b e r s r e n e w c o l l a g e n f i b e r s ,

r e j u v e n a t e ,

r e a c t i v a t e t h e s k i n ’ s r e p a i r p r o c e s s ,

r e t e x t u r i z e / r e f i n i s h t h e s k i n ’ s s u r f a c e ,

r e f i n e t h e s k i n ’ s t e x t u r e ,

r e g e n e r a t e d a m a g e d c e l l s ,

r e b a l a n c e d e e p h y d r a t i o n ,

Product Benefits and Results: Verbs and Verbal Adjectives

Participal/verbal adjectives (same form as the participle of a verb)

‐ing (properties/qualities): relaxing, stimulating, invigorating, exfoliating, nourishing, deep-cleansing, brightening, whitening, skin-lifting, pore-clarifying…

‐ed (beauty results): relaxed, stimulated, reinvigorated, ed (beauty results): relaxed, stimulated, reinvigorated, exfoliated, lifted, plumped up, enhanced in appearance, replenished…

Spotlight on Adjectives and Adverbs:

E t i fExtensive use of:

Evaluative /comparative adjectives:“For the first time, there’s a remarkable gel that can give your hair

any look you want – sleeker, fuller, straighter, curlier, more natural even wet without a drop of alcohol or oil ”natural, even wet – without a drop of alcohol or oil.”

Adverbs (adjective or verb modifiers):th hl i t i d / id ll h d t d ki f ll l t d thoroughly moisturized / ideally hydrated skin, carefully selected

ingredients, expertly formulated skin care products, beautifullyyouthful complexion, lastingly nourished, flawlessly smoothed, youthful complexion, lastingly nourished, flawlessly smoothed, intensely replenished, genuinely more even-toned, etc.

Terminology Choices (Register)Distinguishing features of language associated with variations in context and relating to the language

user (jargon) and/or language use:

1. f ie ld = subject matter2 t i t d l t i h i2. tenor = wr i ter-reader re lat ionship3. mode = formal/ informal

efficacy (FR: efficacité) effectivenesstechnicity (FR: technicité) technical expertise

technical sophisticationtechnical sophistication

superfatting extra rich, (FR: agent surgraissant, high-lipid, gel surgras) lipid-enriched

What Makes the Difference?For Future DiscussionFor Future Discussion…

Syntactic Features

Present Imperative Avoidance Ellipsis

Syntactic Features

Presenttense,active

Imperative,interrogative

and cond.

Avoidanceof

negatives

Ellipsis(elliptical

sentences)voice sentences

What Makes the Difference?For Future DiscussionFor Future Discussion…

Rhetorical Features

M t h P ifi ti S l ti E h i

Rhetorical Features

Metaphor,simile,

metonymy

Personification Superlatives(hyperbole)

Euphemisms,semanticambiguitymetonymy ambiguity

Thank you for your attention!

Agnes Meilhacwww.beautyterm.com