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GLOBAL SOURCING STRATEGY Courtney Gill Jordan Causey Madison White Picha Choopojcharoen Teng Ma

ECRU - Global Sourcing Strategy

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GLOBAL SOURCING STRATEGY

Courtney Gill Jordan Causey Madison White

Picha Choopojcharoen Teng Ma

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ABSTRACT

“Simplicity is the ultimate sophistication” Leonardo da Vinci

At Ecru, we strive to provide the high quality, cutting edge

garments to our consumers. Our company is based solely on

social responsibility and code of ethics. Our basics line will be

available all year round and is perfect for the trendy customer

looking to make a smart addition to their wardrobe, while still

standing out of the crowd.

Through much research in sourcing and manufacturing we

have determined the values in what Ecru is specifically looking

for. In order to meet our margins and keep our costs down

we have spent much time researching facilities all across the

world in order to determine which will best suit our needs. These

countries include, India, China, Sri Lanka, El Salvador and the

Philippines.

As an up and coming company it is very important to

minimize our risks and ultimately increase our overall opportunities

for both our company and our supplier. We have developed a

placement strategy that includes many factors such as country

and supplier analysis and ranking, costing, negotiations, and the

evaluation and analysis of the strategy development factors. This

strategy will aid us in our ability to make the best decision when

it comes to the manufacturing of the Ecru Basics garments.

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TABLE OF CONTENTS

INTRODUCTIONSTRATEGY DEVELOPMENT PROCESS

COUNTRY ANALYSIS

SUPPLIER ANALYSIS COSTING

Company Profile 8

Who We Are 10

Our Products 12

Target Market 14

Why Develop a Strategy? 16

Values 18

Sourcing Guidlines 21

Products, Volumes, & Seasons 22

Sales Plan 24

Countries’ Highlights & Textile Industies 27

Sri Lanka 28

El Salvador 42

India 52

Philippines 60

China 72

SWOT Analysis 79

Country Ranking 84

Suppliers’ Highlights & Textile Industies 92

Sri Lanka 93

El Salvador 99

India 104

Philippines 108

China 111

Suppllier Ranking 116

Preliminary Costing 122

Initial Costs vsPreliminary Costs 124

STRATEGY DEVELOPMENT

SOURCINGSTRATEGY

COMPARISON OF

FINAL COSTING CONCLUSION APPENDIX

Sales Plan 126

China 128

Sri Lanka 132

El Salvador 135

The Future of ECRU 139

China 141

Sri Lanka 144

El Salvador 147

Placement Strategy 150

Preliminary Costing vs.Final Negotiatiated Prices 153

Conclusion 157

Cost Sheets 161

Tech Packs 167

Sourcing Guidelines 213

Supplier Emails 220

Bibliography 234

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Vision

Enhancing Life with Grace and Simplicity

Mission

To be the ultimate house of simple sophistication and style through the creation of

desire now and forever

Values

Aesthetic Competence Creativity Diplomacy

COMPANYPROFILE

Fairness Integrity Perseverance Teamwork

ECRU is a high-end women sportswear retailer with its

flagship boutique in SoHo, New York. We provide women high-

quality sportswear with minimal, natural, and sophisticated

aesthetics and styles to our customers. ECRU also has an

extension line called “ECRU Basics” which provides basic

yet high quality garments throughout the year.

ECRU incorporates its values throughout the company

and its products since the main proirity is to assure our

customers receive the best quality and fashionable outfits

that reflect their lifestyles and identities.

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WHAT WE STAND FOR

ECRU is a French word for “unbleached“ or “raw”. It

also means a shade of light greyish-pale yellow or beige-like

tones. This type of color appears on raw and natural yarns

and fabrics. The name reflects the company’s philosophy

and core values in which we consider the pure quality and

rawness throughout the products. That is why our designs

and aesthetics are rather simple yet sophisticated in

craftmanship. Ecru is the signature color palette through out

our collections and packaging, which also makes us stand out

and distinguishes our customers from other leading brands.

ECRU also concerns about sustainability and corporate social

resposibility. We take serious agreement on transparency and

integrity with our partnerships from sourcing guideline to every

process of the production.

SInce ECRU values the importance of environment

and sustainability, the products are made of 100%

natural fiber yarns and fabrics such as cotton and

linen. The company has been trying to reduce carbon-

footprint by sourcing and utilsing fabrics within the

same countries. Our company is also working toward

more eco-friendly and organic fabrics in the future.

ECRU offers both fashion and basic collections. Our

products range from woven and knitted tops, bottoms,

dresses, and accessories. Though ECRU basics collections

have lower price range, we still maintain and assure our

customers the same level of quality of our products. ECRU

basics are offered throughout the whole year with new

several pieces added to the collections each season to

keep updated with current color trends for each season.

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Style 1 - Latte

Retail Price - $120

Style 2 - Barley

Retail Price - $90

Style 3 - Ivory

Retail Price - $140

Style 4 - Bisque

Retail Price - $120

Style 5 - Desert Sand

Retail Price - $180

OUR PRODUCTS

ECRU BasicsWoven Tops

Spring/Summer 2014

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TARGET MARKET

ECRU caters toward female New Yorkers within ages of 25-40. Our

customers are considered as young digerati living in the urban and afflu-

ent lifestyles around Manhattan and Downtown Brooklyn. They are sophis-

ticated, thoughtful, and stylish. With high level of education and career

success, our women are independent and confident with their lifestyles

and fashion choices. They are innovators and experiencers who always

look forward and keep up with new trends and styles, but yet don’t want

to overdress themselves. They want to dress well enough so that people

can appreciate their looks as well as their status. Their preference in styles

is considered clean, minimal, yet unique in design and aesthetic. Our cus-

tomer also value high quality and craftmanship.

ECRU Basics line serves as fundamental pieces that our women must

have and wear them in their daily lives no matter what occasions or plac-

es they go.

CUSTOMER PROFILE

Family Income: $308,721 (Personal - $97,000)

Education: MBA in Marketing at NYU

Competitive Stores/Brands: Stella McCartney, Chloe, and Bloomingdales

Fashion Cycle: Innovation Stage

VALS: Innovator/Experiencer

Buying Behavior:

• Expect great customer service / Enjoy shopping experience

• Best quality products

• High brand loyalty

Young Digerati

Grace SmithAge: 27

Marketing Consultant From Upper East Side,

NYC

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STRATEGY DEVELOPMENT PROCESS

Ecru, meaning pure, simple and clean, is a luxury women’s ready to wear

brand with a mission to be the ultimate house of simple sophistication

and style through the creation of desire now and forever. Ecru has a

goal to create sophisticated and timeless pieces of women’s clothing

while valuing aesthetic, diplomacy, fairness and integrity, as well as

giving back philanthropically.

These five country profiles from El Salvador, India, China, the Philippines

and Sri Lanka is meant to overview the countries in all aspects from

their culture, to their economy to their manufacturing, to ultimately

determine which country is the best for Ecru to source their luxury

garments from.

When determining which country to chose for the manufacturing of

our luxury women’s woven tops Ecru’s looked firstly at the codes of

conduct for each of the manufacturers as well as the way the country

does business overall. Because ethics and overall conduct is such a

strong value for Ecru, it is very important that the manufacturers share

these similar goals. Our other considerations must obviously include

the overall cost of creating the garments, the export industry as well

as the over textile and apparel industry of each of the five chosen

countries.

Why Develop a Strategy?

Values

Sourcing Guidlines

Products, Volumes, & Seasons

Sales Plan

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VALUES

ECRU is built upon several values we believe will allow our company

to grow and be successful. We aspire to be a brand that is looked up

to and respected by our competitors and customers alike. These same

values helped build ECRU’s sourcing guidelines as we are committed to

producing quality garments that will be worn with pride.

Perseverance

We believe in our company and its products and we will work hard to

overcome obstacles in whatever form they may take in order to deliver

apparel that lives up to our standards.

Fairness

We believe in equal opportunity and rights free from any form of

discrimination.

Diplomacy

Working with foreign companies can bring its own set of challenges, but

we are dedicated to resolving conflicts and finding common ground to

benefit both ourselves and our manufactures as we wish to successfully

grow our business as well as theirs.

Creativity

At ECRU we know the best solution isn’t always the most obvious and

believe in the power of creative thinking and play to be innovative.

Aesthetic

We strive to deliver garments that will be appreciated by our customer

for both the care that was put into its design and creation and for its

overall look. We believe in simple luxury and want our customers to

confident whether they are wearing our basic line or our fashion line.

Teamwork

ECRU is more than just a team; we are a family of people who all believe

in our product and are committed to working efficiently not only within

our company but also with our manufacturers in order to create the

best products.

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Integrity

We stand by our beliefs and values and strongly believe in transparency.

We are dedicated to making sure that our employees are happy and

being treated fairly, especially those who are manufacturing for us.

We strive to give everyone a voice, free from worry, to ensure that our

standards are being lived up to.

Competence

At ECRU we strive to know our customer and her needs in order to meet

them. We pride ourselves on every piece of merchandise that displays

the ECRU name and go to great lengths to find manufacturers that are

knowledgeable and reputable in the products they create for us.

ECRU’s Code of Conduct is in line with values that are core

to its company. Fairness, teamwork, diplomacy and integrity are

some of the values that come across strongest in our code, as ECRU

strongly believes in fair treatment of workers as they are more than just

employees. They are people with their own families and needs, and

we want to ensure their safety and well-being as we value them and

the role they play in our brand. Our Code of Conduct is applicable

to all suppliers, their subcontractors and other business partners that

conduct business with Ecru. Our code can be found in the appendix

and strongly details our requirements in regards to the health and

safety of the work environment, worker’s rights with an emphasis on

basic rights, wages and restrictions on working hours, and monitoring

and enforcement which outlines transparency requirements, our right

to make unannounced audits in addition to our scheduled bi-annual

audits, our right to appoint an external auditor, should we see it fit and

the consequences of not taking corrective action should a violation

come to light.

SOURCING GUIDELINES

*See full sourcing guidelines in Appendix

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Products, Volumes, & Seasons

Look 1: Latte

76,000 Units

Season: Year round

Loose fitting women’s 100% pima cotton

blouse with narrow, cowl neck and extended

sleeve openings.

Look 2: Barley

90,000 Units

Season: Year round

Loose fitting women’s 100% pima cotton

blouse with ¾ length folded sleeves.

Look 3: Ivory

105,000 Units

Season: Year round

Loose fitting women’s 100% pima cotton,

sleeveless, collared button-down.

Look 4: Bisque

85,000 Units

Season: Year round

Loose fitting, wide neck women’s 100% cotton

poplin blouse with cutouts on sleeves.

Look 5: Desert Sand

94,000 Units

Season: Year round

Women’s long-sleeved, 100% pima cotton,

high-low, button-down shirt with princess

seam, back detailing and right breast pocket.

Total Annual Volume: 450,000 Units

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SALES PLAN

Because we are a high-end luxury company, our margins, princes

and sales are quite high. In the first year after the Ecru Basics collection

launches we are projecting to do over $59 million in sales. This number

is derived from selling 450 units divided between 5 garments and sku

numbers.

Our retail prices are going to range from $90 up to $180, due to

the fact that we are a luxury brand and retailer. We are selling these

garments online and in our own flagship store solely at this current

moment, which means will not have wholesale prices. This will reflect

highly on our margins, resulting in them being between 65% and 66%

for each garment. Our average cost for production is about $5 per

garment, making our total production cost for 450,000 units, 2,250,000.

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COUNTRY ANALYSIS

COUNTRIES

Sri Lanka El Salvador

India Philippines

China

Countries’ Highlights & Textile Industies

Country Selection

Ratings Spreadsheet

Sri Lanka

India

El Salvador

Philippines

China

Our five countries, China, India, the Philippines, El Salvador and

Sri Lanka were selected by our professor, but have been selected

for a reason. During the duration of the strategy we have made

it our goal to determine which countries are the best sources of

manufacturing for creating our luxury, woven women’s tops. There

are many determining factors, but most importantly we have looking

into the business and textile climate and industry, the costs, the

logistics as well as the manufacturers reliability and code of conduct.

Each of these five countries has something different and special to

offer to the world of manufacturing and we have taken great time

and detail in assessing which of the five will rise to the top.

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SRI LANKA

Country Introduction

Endless beaches, breathtaking ruins, flavorful food and teas, legendary

temples and oodles of elephants packed into over 3000 years of history

and culture on the island of Sri Lanka.

Sri Lanka offers incredible experiences stretching from the mountains

to the sea. The country is packed with rich history, diverse wildlife, a

variety of climates and eco-systems, cultural and religious heritage,

wide-spanning beaches and offers hundreds of ancient ruins to explore

and discover. It is Southeast Asia’s hidden gem that is waiting to be

traveled and charted by tourists, nature lovers and history enthusiasts

alike. (Data Monitor)

With all that this country has to offer, it has even more in manufacturing

and business practices and has been awarded in many areas of

“Green” business practices for their manufacturing facilities and

factories. This country is beginning to thrive and make a name for itself

on the map with tourists as well as import and trade businesses and

manufacturers. (Data Monitor)

Sri Lanka is an island country located of the southern most

tip of India. The country has a rich history documenting back over 3000

years ago. Sri Lanka has a very strong Buddhist heritage. The country

was very important during the time of the ancient Silk Road and has

continued to grow and expand their trade and exports, making

them the top contributors to Sri Lanka’s economy. Even though the

country is just starting to rebuild it self from a thirty-year civil war which

ended recently in 2009, Sri Lanka is beginning to thrive once again

in manufacturing and tourism, giving them a strong and growing

economy. (Data Monitor)

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Sri Lanka, also known as, Ceylon, is an island in the Indian Ocean with

a population of about 20 million people. The highest concentration of

the population is located in the larger cities, particularly in Columbo,

the countries capital, main port, and industrial center and hub. Sri

Lanka is ethnically, linguistically and religiously diverse, with over ten

different languages cultures and religious beliefs being practiced.

(Data Monitor)

The flag of Sri Lanka is also known as the Lion Flag. It depicts a

gold lion holding a sword in its front paw, a dark red background, four

golden leaves, one in each corner and two vertical stripes, one green

and one orange. The lion represents the bravery of the Sri Lankan

Nation, while the other symbols represent the countries past history,

culture and religious beliefs. (Data Monitor)

Socio-Economic-political Analysis:

The Sri Lankan politics take place in a presidential representative

democratic republic framework. This is where the president of Sri

Lanka is both the head of the state and the head of the government.

The political make up also includes legislative power, which act under

both the government and the parliament. For many decades, politics

in Sri Lanka have been dominated by the Sri Lankan Freedom Party

and the Conservative United Nation Party. (Datamonitor)

The president Mahinda Rajapaksa was elected in November of 2005

and is part of the Freedom Party. The Prime Minister, Disanayaka

Mudiyanselage Jayaratne, who was elected in 2010, is also a member

of the Freedom Party. The President is elected for six-year terms and has

the power to hire and fire the Prime Minister. The day-to-day running

of the government lies to the prime minister and his cabinet, which is

drawn from the legislature. (Datamonitor)

In July of 1983 the Sri Lankan Civil War broke out and began an on

going conflict all across the island. The government rose to fight against

the rebellious Liberation Tigers of Tamil Eelam (LTTE), also known as the

Tamil Tigers. The Tamil Tigers are a military organization that formed in

order to break away from Sri Lanka and form an independent Tamil

state called Tamil Eelam in the north and eastern region of the island.

The war led on for 26 years when the Tamil Tigers were finally defeated

by the Sri Lankan military in 2009. (Datamonitor)

This war lasting almost three decades left Sri Lanka in a sheer state

of turmoil. Over 100,000 citizens were killed and even more were

injured. The country was hurt culturally as well as economically. Much

damage was done to the country physically which has detracted

tourists, investors and has damaged manufacturing facilities. With all

that being said, in the 5 years that the war has been over, Sri Lanka

and its citizens have done all that they can to revitalize the country

and restore it to what it once was. (Datamonitor)

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The government figures in Sri Lanka have been stable for many years

as well as their representative democratic republic political system. The

country is swiftly able to make decisions that benefit the communities

and the people as a whole. However, the war has certainly affected

the country significantly and even though Sri Lanka is making all efforts

to restore and revitalize, it is still a potential drawback when looking at

prospective manufacturing locations.

Economic traits:

Sri Lanka has a world ranking of 90 from the 2014 Index of Economic

Freedom and a ranking of 16 in the overall Southeastern Asian

hemisphere. (IEF) The country is continuing to see strong economic

growth following the conclusion of the 26-year Civil War. During the

war there was much turmoil economically and the country suffered

greatly. It is now that Sri Lanka is making all efforts to

reconstruct and bring back one they once had. (CIA World Factbook)

The Sri Lankan governments very high debt payments have contributed

almost 100% to the country’s high budget and fiscal deficit. However,

the global 2009 recession and economic crisis actually caused a boom

for Sri Lanka and nearly balanced their debt payment crisis. This has

given Sri Lanka the ability to now focus on their greatest assets, being

their trade and exports, and agriculture. (CIA World Factbook)

The Sri Lankan governments very high debt payments have contributed

almost 100% to the country’s high budget and fiscal deficit. However,

the global 2009 recession and economic crisis actually caused a boom

for Sri Lanka and nearly balanced their debt payment crisis. This has

given Sri Lanka the ability to now focus on their greatest assets, being

their trade and exports, and agriculture. (CIA World Factbook)

The country is constantly looking for new ways to expand and improve

their most lucrative markets, apparel manufacturing and agriculture,

which combined employ over two thirds of the population and bring

in the majority of the revenues for the country. Because the main

revenues and income for the country do come from trade and exports,

particularly apparel but also tea, rubber and technology, there is a

large incentive for the country to constantly keep up to date and

advanced to beat out the competition across the world. Sri Lanka

is currently ranked at number four of the top apparel manufacturing

countries in the world and

has great potential to reach number one in the upcoming years.

(World Factbook)

Sri Lanka’s currency is the Indian Rupee; and as of April 2014,

the U.S Dollar is valued at .0077 of 1 Rupee. The current Sri Lankan

unemployment rate is at 4%, ranking #49 in the world. Revenues in

2013 reached $8.43 Billion, while expenditures were at $12.57 Billion.

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The Sri Lankan inflation rate both increased and decreased significantly

over the past 10 years. In the past 3 years the rate of inflation has gone

from 6.11% in 2012, to 9.9% in 2013 and all the way down to current

4.2% that it is today. This is very unusually for the rate to fluctuate so

drastically, but the country has been in a serious state of turmoil after

the war, which directly influenced their economic structure. Looking

towards the future, Sri Lanka is making all the possible amends to

even out and steady the drastically changing inflation rate. (Trading

Economics)

Due to these high rates of fluctuation in both revenues and the

inflation rate, Sri Lanka does show potential risks when looking into

supply and manufacturing. The country is still in quite a high amount of

debt and is spending significantly more than they are bringing in. This,

and the drastically changing inflation rate may cause serious problems

and will be a great concern if Ecru business is done in Sri Lanka.

Labor and Labor Laws:

The Labor force in Sri Lanka is very strong and makes up a significant

amount of the population, of both males and females. About 48.2%

of the population works in labor, 67.2% being male and 31.3% being

female. The labor tasks in Sri Lanka include agriculture, industry and

services. In 2012 30.7% of the population worked in agriculture, 26.6%

worked in industry and 42.6% worked in services. (Labor Force Survey)

The unemployment rate has seen a significant decrease in the past

ten years dropping from 8.4% in 2003 down to 4.0% in 2012. The rate

of unemployment for men is at about half the percentage of that for

women. This is a significant decrease in a short period of time and is all

due to the ending of the Civil War and Sri Lanka’s ability to quickly start

rebuilding the country. (Labor Force Survey)

Sri Lanka’s main exports are apparel, rubber and tea. These

three categories make up a large percentage of revenues for the

country. Sri Lankan apparel manufacturing supplies a wide variety of

garments ranging from sportswear, lingerie, and lounge wear, to ready

to wear, bridal, swimwear and children’s wear. This gives Sri Lanka the

opportunity to supply to many different companies and with a wide

variety of style, quality and price points. (Labor Force Survey)

Since apparel manufacturing is such an important aspect to the

economy in Sri Lanka, many laws have been put in place to protect

the employees and their employers. Laws, codes of conduct and rules

of ethics are made very clear to the employees and are 100% geared

towards making their careers greater and more enjoyable. Companies

in Sri Lanka have very in depth laws regarding workers rights, women’s

rights, employee legal work rights and employee termination rights

and once again these laws and how they work are made very clear

to the apparel-manufacturing workers. Sri Lanka is currently close to

being the number one apparel manufacturing country in the world

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and they will be chosen so because of their incredible ethics and

the amount of integrity with which they treat their employees, their

customers and of course, the environment. (Labor Legislations)

Sri Lanka is constantly making sure that they are treating their

employees and their customers with the utmost respect and integrity.

Because high integrity is one of Ecru’s top values, the way that Sri Lanka

manages their facilities is something that really resonates with us. The

ability to have respect in the workplace is something Ecru is certainly

looking for when reviewing countries and manufacturing facilities.

current Textile and Apparel Industry:

Sri Lanka’s textile and apparel export industry is the largest and

most significant contributor to the country’s economy. The industry

has seen sizeable growth over the past four decades and today the

apparel industry makes up 52% of the countries exports and economic

stimulus. This fast growing industry also provides over 300,000 jobs to

Sri Lankan men and women across the country. The 350 garment

factories and 16 textile and fabric manufacturers are privately owned

entities but do manage well with the Sri Lankan government, seeing

that they are bringing in the majority of the countries revenues. These

technologically innovative factories play a key role in the advancement

of the Sri Lankan apparel industry and are quickly paving the way to

be the top supplier country in the world. (EDB)

The apparel manufacturing industry is incredibly competitive,

but Sri Lanka has many attributes that make them stand out. Each

factory in Sri Lanka is 100% environmentally friendly and many have

won incredible awards including the world’s first LEED Platinum

certification. They operate under strict ethical principles and

guidelines that are made clear to the workers as well as the brands

and companies. The manufacturing facilities are also highly focused

on innovation, giving back to their country and maintaining a strong

reputation all across the world. (EDB)

Sri Lanka’s apparel categories include sportswear, lingerie,

lounge wear, ready to wear, bridal, swimwear and children’s wear

and the United States and the United Kingdom have been the

largest apparel buyers for many years. Longstanding relationships

with companies across the world, and a strong drive to make quality

pieces, keeps buyers and brands coming back again and again to

Sri Lanka. These relationships have made the apparel industry in Sri

Lanka even more reputable, stronger and more prosperous. (EDB)

Sri Lanka is a producer of Garments Without Guilt and the “Made

in Sri Lanka” label, both of which are synonymous with high quality,

reliability, social and environmental standards, code of ethics and

accountability. Each of these standards is made present in each of

the factories, the working environments, as well as how the garments

are produced. Within the past three decades the country has

evolved into creating high quality and sophisticated designs,

38 39

allowing the country to appeal to even more companies and brands.

(EDB)

Because the apparel industry makes up such a large percentage

of Sri Lanka’s economic stability and make up, all of the factories

and manufacturing facilities in the country take part in giving back

to the community. This is a very important aspect of these facilities

and shows a philanthropic side that will resonate with many different

fashion brands, again making Sri Lanka an ideal country to source

from. Businesses and manufacturers are always looking to grow

and expand and currently there are 10 new facilities being built. Sri

Lanka has recently been named one of the top three countries out of

the top 50 most important suppliers and has promise of becoming the

top supplier in the world in a few short years. (EDB)

Because the textile and apparel industry in Sri Lanka is one

of their top industries, they are constantly looking for new ways to

improve and expand. With that being said, the manufacturers are still

incredibly focused on building strong relationships and reputations

with customers. This in turn helps Sri Lanka keep their best customers

coming back and gives them potential new customers for additional

revenues. Ecru would be happy to manufacturer in a country that is

focused on giving the customer exactly what they are looking for and

making sure they have a great experience along the way.

Logistics and importation

Exporting goods from Sri Lanka into the U.S. has become a very simple

and quick task. There are many shipping and freight companies that

service Sri Lanka and a large majority of the goods are going back to

the Unites States. The routes are well established and there are multiple

to choose from depending if the goods are being delivered to west

coast or the east coast. Because the majority of the manufacturing

facilities are located in Colombo, the port city capital, or very close

by, getting the garments and apparel to the port is not an issue.

Hundreds of shipping companies travel from Sri Lanka to the United

States including ZIM Shipping Line, Maersk Line and Hapag-Lloyd. The

majority of exporting and shipping out of Sri Lanka is done through sea

and there are limited airfreight companies coming to Sri Lanka. ZIM

Integrates Shipping Services ltd. was established in 1945 and has grown

to be one of the largest container shipping companies in the industry.

The company is committed to providing their customers with reliable

shipping solutions around the world. An exporting container ship leaves

from Colombo, Sri Lanka every two days and takes approximately 3

weeks to arrive in New York, United States. The container ship takes two

routes: one from Sri Lanka through the Middles East and Mediterranean

into southern Europe. From there it goes on to the port in New York.

(ZIM)

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Maersk Line is one of the top leading cargo-shipping companies in the

world and has been rising to the top of the market since 1928. Their

strong commitment to the environment as well as customer service

keeps people coming back. The ship leaves the Colombo port every

Friday at 12 pm and there is a one-day cut off period for canceling a

shipment. The vessel takes about 3-4 weeks to arrive in New York. The

line goes from Colombo to Rotterdam and then arrives in New York.

(Maersk Line)

Haypag-Lloyd is a container freight company operating in more than

300 locations across the world. The company has been in business for

over 165 years and continues to keep their values of environmental

protection, compliance and sustainability prevalent in their work.

Exporting a container from Sri Lanka to New York will take about 22

to 28 days on a Haypag-Lloyd ship. The ship leaves twice a week and

sails through the Middle East and Mediterranean, making one stop in

Halifax before then landing in New York. (Haypag-Lloyd)

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EL SALVADOR

Country Overview

El Salvador is a small Central American Country that has been gaining

footing in the textile and apparel industries and is the closest country

to ECRU’s New York headquarters out of the five countries we have

been researching. This means that manufacturing in El Salvador gives

the advantage of a short lead-time. It is also the only country we

have researched which has established a free trade agreement with

the United States, through the Central American Trade Agreement-

Dominican Republic (CAFTA-DR). El Salvador was the first Latin

American country to sign CAFTA-DR which was implemented in March

2006 and would allow ECRU to import any garments we manufacture

there tariff-free, as long as the labor and all the materials originate

from one of the countries within the agreement. This is not the only

tie El Salvador has to the US, as El Salvador adopted the US Dollar in

2001 as its currency which gives control over its monetary policy to the

United States (Coleman 63; “Country Intelligence” 7). This has helped

to stabilize the country’s inflation rates which are now predicted to

increase steadily around a 2% change from the previous year in the

near future (“Country Intelligence” 5-6). The dollarization also has

eliminated the need to keep an eye on exchange rates between

the US and El Salvador. The United States is El Salvador’s main trading

partner, which receives half of El Salvador’s exports. The United States

has invested over $2.5 billion into the country to help boost industries

and infrastructure. In addition, approximately 1 in 5 Salvadorans lives

in the US, 1.2 million of which are immigrants (Meacham).

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Political

El Salvador is a Democratic Republic that has been gaining stability

since it’s 12-year civil war. It has a president who is elected for a single

five year term. Current President, Mauricio Funes will be succeeded

by his Vice President, Salvador Sánchez Cerén in June; both of which

are left-wing members of the Farabundo Marti National Liberation

Front party, or FMLN (Meacham). Sánchez Cerén has proposed

“expanding rehabilitation programs, job training for convicts, and

increasing support for police” in addition to adding welfare programs

and development projects to help strengthen the economy and

reduce poverty (Meacham).

Social and labor

Nearly half of El Salvador’s labor force is employed in agricultural

and commercial activities while manufacturing accounts for 15.5%

(“Country Intelligence” 15). Men make up the majority of the workforce;

however, women have been gaining footing in recent years. As of 2010,

there were 4.13 million people who are of working age with a labor

force of 2.58 million (“Country Intelligence” 15). The population growth

has been slowing but remains positive at 0.7% per year; however, the

labor-force is predicted surpass the population growth rate until 2040

due to El Salvador’s age structure, as there are more people entering

the workforce then there are retiring (“Country Intelligence” 10). Both

male and female children typically attend school for 12 years with an

estimated 80.2% of the population over 15 years of age being literate

(Coleman 115). El Salvador will not lack for intelligent employees in the

years to come as literacy has been increasing and a strong amount

of the population is young. El Salvador is often listed as one of the

most dangerous countries, having a murder rate over 40 per 100,000

people in 2013, wide spread gang problems (particularly with the

Mara Salvatrucha and the Barrio 18), drug trafficking and corruption;

however, it often ranks among the top ten happiest countries (Klahn;

Meacham).

Economy

El Salvador has had a mixed economy since the 60’s and 70’s when

expanded into manufacturing and it is currently one of the most

industrialized countries in Central America. Agriculture employs half

of the country’s work force and includes the growing of sugarcane,

coffee and cotton. Currently El Salvador has a “sluggish economic

performance” with imports exceeding exports although the growth

rate has been taking a turn for the positive and is predicted to remain

so in the medium-term. The country has low investment rates resulting

in slow capital accumulation that “reflect a low national savings rate,

a weak investment climate and poor human capital development”

(Country Intelligence” 10). As El Salvador adopted the US Dollar as

its currency, it no longer has control over its monetary policy which

is dictated by the United States (“Country Intelligence” 7). Inflation is

46 47

clearance, port and terminal handling and inland transportation and

handling (“Doing Business”). Acajutla is El Salvador’s major cargo

seaport, followed by Puerto de La Union Central. The Cutuco Port had

been inactive since 1996 and underwent renovations in January 2005,

making it the most important port infrastructure project in over 30 years

as it would double the cargo holding abilities of Acajutla (“Puerto”). It

was inaugurated Puerto de La Union Central on June 21, 2008.

By ocean, ships can travel from one of El Salvador’s ports through the

Panama Canal and on to one of many U.S. ports where it can then

travel by train or truck to its destination. Cargo can also travel across

El Salvador to either Honduras or Guatemala as both countries have

sea ports along the Atlantic coast. Crowley is a shipping company

headquartered in Jacksonville, Florida with capabilities to transport

merchandise from El Salvador to ECRU’s New York City location.

Crowley would transport ECRU’s cargo from El Salvador to a port in

Guatemala where it would then sail to the Fort Lauderdale Port (Port

Everglades) in Florida. Next the cargo would ship via motor rail to New

York City. Ships travel from Guatemala to Fort Lauderdale 3 times a

week with a transport time of 5 days. Trains set out daily and cargo

will reach New York in 4 days. Crowley gave a quote of $5,755 for

the transportation of a filled 40ft shipping container of apparel from El

Salvador to New York City (Phone Interview).

predominantly driven by food, fuel and energy related wares and El

Salvador’s adoption of the US dollar has helped to stabilize inflation

which is expected to increase by 1.9% in 2014, a much lower rate than

surrounding countries (“Country Intelligence” 5).

Exporting

Exporting from El Salvador requires 7 documents including a bill of

landing, a cargo release order, a commercial invoice, a customs export

declaration, a packing list, a technical standard/health certificate

and terminal handling receipts (“Doing Business”). According to the

World Bank Group, it takes 13 days and around $980 to prepare a

container for export: this accounts for document preparation, customs

48 49

Textile Industry

El Salvador has built a vertically integrated supply chain and is the

only Central American country that has developed a full synthetic

cluster, producing nylon, polyester and microfiber fabrics which ECRU

may wish to utilize at a later date (“Specialized Textiles”). Apparel

production cost per minute in El Salvador is $0.10; which in line with

many of El Salvador’s neighbors including the Dominican Republic

and Guatemala. Mexico and Colombia on the other hand are more

pricy with costs around $0.12-$0.14 per minute. El Salvador’s textile

and apparel association, the Chamber of the Textile, Clothing and

Free Zones of El Salvador (CAMTEX), makes its mission “To promote,

represent and support the textile, clothing and free zones of El Salvador,

to strengthen their competitiveness,” and is a valuable resource when

sourcing and learning about the industry (CAMTEX).

The apparel and textile industry in El Salvador has been growing;

production saw an increase of 4.1% in 2013, while exports grew by 9%

to 2.394 billion (Melara). The industry accounts for 44% of the country’s

exports; broken down further, fabrics accounted for 64%, followed

by synthetic garments and fibers at 25% and woven apparel and

fibers at 11% (Melara). 73,795 direct jobs were created in the industry

during October 2013: a 3% increase from October of the previous

year (CAMTEX). El Salvador’s agency for Promotion of Exports and

Investments (PROESA) held a seminar in November of 2013 with aims

to identify new opportunities in the textiles and apparel industry with

a focus on how to utilize benefits of the CAFDA-DR trade agreement

(“Salvadoran Government”). Due to the textile and apparel industry

accounting for 16.3% of industrial GDP (2013) and 44% of exports,

it was identified as one of the sectors with strong growth prospects

in the short term (Salvadoran Government; Melara). As a result, the

government will develop training programs to shift human resource’s

focus to identifying new business opportunities in this sector.

Climate

A variety of natural disasters affect El Salvador typically causing the

evacuation of thousands, the destruction of infrastructure, homes,

buildings and land. These natural disasters could result in the destruction

of manufacturing buildings or the evacuation of employees that

would render them unable to work, affecting product production and

the ability for goods to be transported. El Salvador experiences two

seasons; the rainy season occurring between June and November,

and the dry season, between December and May. During the rainy

season, flooding and landslides have proven to be risky. Deforestation

has been a problem in El Salvador which increases its susceptibility to

these occurrences as roughly 85% of the country’s natural land-cover

has been removed: making 65% of the country vulnerable to landslides

(“Disasters Risk” 19). El Salvador has been called the Land of Volcanos

and has over 20 volcanoes, 3 of which have been active in recent

years and have resulted in the evacuation of thousands (“Disasters

50 51

Risk” 20). El Salvador is known for its vulnerability to hurricanes and

tropical storms as well as for earthquakes, as it is located on one of

Earth’s most seismically active regions (“Disasters Risk” 18-19).

52 53

INDIA

Social

India has the second largest population in the world with around 1.2

billion people in 2012. The social environment is very stable and people

live together harmoniously since many are religious and live their lives

under the doctrine of karma (over 80.5% are identified as Hindus)

Indian cultures have been perceived as diverse and exotic. There are

18 major languages in India. However, many Indians can speak English

since it is the second official language. Hierarchy is influenced by the

caste system and still important in Indian society. Younger people

respect the elders, and lower rank employees also have to respect

their bosses and higher executives.

India is still a male-dominated society where women have lower priorities

and wages than their male counterparts. Poverty and healthcare are

still major problems in India. Many water resources are contaminated

in India, and air pollution is almost the worst in the world. Many people

have diseases and are unable to obtain adequate healthcare (only

7-8% of the central budget is allocated for healthcare). Even though

the caste system was eliminated, people from lower caste ancestry

are still regarded as unclean and are given less priority and benefits

than higher-status people. There are still issues related to the large

wealth gap and disparities in the society that cannot be improved

within the short period of time (Marketline).

Economic

In 2011, India’s estimated GDP was $1.843 trillion with 7.8% growth rate.

India economy has been improving and growing steadily in the past few

54 55

years. Middle class populations are increasing in numbers and earning

higher disposable incomes. Foreign portfolio and direct investment

inflows also have risen significantly in the recent years. Proposals for

direct foreign investment are supported by the government and are

also considered by the Foreign Investment Promotion Board.

US-India bilateral merchandise trade in 2008 was almost nearly $50

billion. Major US imports from India include textiles, ready-made

garments, internet-enabled and IT services, gems, leather products,

and chemicals. The US is also India’s largest investment partnet with

a 13% share. India exports have also grown at a very fast pace

accounting for 23.9% of the country GDP in 2012 (Marketline)

However, India’s economic growth is constrained by inadequate

infrastructure (usually electricity), a cumbersome bureaucracy,

corruption in service sectors and governments, regulatory and foreign

investment controls, and high fiscal deficits. The rising fiscal deficits,

inflation, and external debt have resulted in depreciation of rupee

and negative credit rating (BBB-) India’s stage of economy has rather

been a mixed between positive and negative aspects.

Political

According to Globaledge, the Indian government is considered as

federal republic, however “ the central government has greater power

in relation to its states and also has adopted a British-style parliament

system; the parliament consists of Council of States (Rajya Sabha) and

House of People (Lok Sabha)”. “The President of Indian is elected by an

electoral collage of elected members from both houses of Parliament

and the legislatures of the states for a five-year term” (CIA). India has

28 states and 7 union territories. President Pranab Kumar Mukherjee is

the Chief of State, and Prime Minister Manmohan Singh is the Head

of Government (Global Edge). The current diplomatic representative

from US is Ambassador Nancy J. Powell (CIA).

Labor

India has the second-largest labor force in the world, which accounts

around 487 million workers. In 2013, India’s unemployment rate was 8.8%

with 29.8% of population below poverty line (CIA). Textile and apparel

industry employs over 35 million workers and is also the second largest

provider of employment after agriculture. Many unskilled workers

are well-trained in their sectors. The current labor cost in apparel

manufacturing sector is $0.51 per hour; the overall wage is still higher

than the same sectors in Bangladesh, Cambodia, Pakistan, Vietnam,

Sri Lanka, and Indonesia (Emerging Textiles). The growing number of

young population in India implies the potential and active workforce

in the world which looks positive for outsourcing for skilled and talented

labors; more than 70% of population will be working age in 2025.

Trade Agreement

India has no Free Trade Agreement partnership with the US. However,

56 57

the country has several bilateral trade agreements with other countries

and within WTO such as AIFTA (ASEAN-India Free Trade Area) which

allows tariff liberalization over 90% of products including textiles. The

trade agreement is however beneficial to the US companies in the

way that they can gain benefit from cost reduction if they decide to

use materials such as raw materials, fabrics, or components from one

of the ASEAN countries, which will be delivered to India to be made

into final garments. India also has SAFTA (South Asian Free Trade Area)

and with the new government recently has agree to start on bilateral

trade ties with the EU and Canada in the future.

Risks

Though India has a potential growth in manufacturing and labor

force. There are still some problem associated with poor infrastructure

and business protocol that might create risks to the production and

company such as punctuality and discipline issue.

There are high risks associated with late inadequate shipment and time

consuming process, which will tremendously cause the loss of profit in

the business. Inefficient implementation of regulations and Code of

Conduct is also another risk. Child labor, unhealthy and unsafe working

environments, and unfair wages are still considered major issues. Many

companies have a hard time identifying the transparency level of the

suppliers since the production is done oversea. It is a huge risk in losing

reputation of the company if any unlawful or inhumane practices are

discovered at the partnered suppliers

Textile and Apparel Industry

The domestic apparel market in India was worth about $38 billion in

2012. India is ranked as the sixth largest apparel exporter in 2013 with

the total estimated value of $14.4 billion. The apparel sector accounts

for almost 10% of the overall exports. India has been regarded as one

of the best producers of cotton fabrics (especially hand-loomed) as

well as raw cotton exporters (ranking #2 in 2013) in womens wear,

blouses and Indian ethnic wear comprise the largest segment with

75% share of the entire segment. The market is expected to grow at

9% for the next five years at the value of 22.3 $billion. The monthly

wages of a worker in the Indian apparel industry was approximately

$169.67 which was also the fourth lowest paying following Bangladesh,

Cambodia, and Haiti.

The overall apparel industry is expected to grow at a compound

average growth rate of 9% over the next decade. In 2012, there

was an introduction of 10% excise duty on branded apparel with

an abatement rate of 55%. There are also differences in tax rates

depending on the states; “the government in Delhi, Uttar Pradesh,

Punjab, and Rajasthan charge a VAT of 5% on apparel”, while other

states charge 4%. The service tax was also increased by 2% in 2012

(Gugnani) The rise in taxes resulted in increased average sales price of

58 59

apparel by 5-6% Most retailers had encountered a negative growth of

4-5% in sales during the fiscal year of 2012 (Gugnani).

According to Indian Ministry of Textile, the textile and apparel industry

in India have strong growth in demand and policy support, which

has resulted in government investment schemes (TCIDS and APES)

and commitment of both domestic and foreign investments ($140

billion in value) (IBEF). The Technology Upgradation Fund Scheme

(TUFS) provides budget of $0.5 billion for modernization of the power

loom sector and stress more on mechanization (IBEF). The FY14 union

budget also provides infrastructure support and tax sops and financial

packages that help reducing duty for imported textile and machinery

and eliminate excise duty for the cotton and manmade garments as

well (IBEF).

Why we didn’t choose India:

Even though India is known for cheap labor costs (in general),

ready-made apparel industry, woven and knitted cotton fabrics,

there are some factors that made us had to eliminate India over

other smaller countries like Sri Lanka and El Salvador. First problem

is poor infrastructure, especially electricity and roads; losing power

during the production process might create huge loss of time and

profits, and might also delay the production. Poor road condition

and environment also create problems with delivery as well. Second

problem is poor atmospheric and working environment; India is

known for having very high level of air pollution and contaminated

water resource, water is needed in production and it’s vital that it’s

clean before manufacturing into actual products. Dirty environment

and poor air condition will also affect the workers’ health which

might result with problems in the future. The third issue is about

sourcing guideline in which many places in India still don’t comply to

the code of conduct honestly and child labors and unfair payments

to the workers still happen everywhere. India also has no free trade

agreements with the US which means it is automatically subjected

to 15.4% tax over every product imported to the US. Though the

suppliers that ECRU contacted are very professional and have higher

rank scores on ECRU supplier ranking, their price quotes are very high

compared to ECRU initial estimated costs.

60 61

PHILIPPINES

INTRODUCTION

There is more involved in the design process of apparel than sketches

and swatches. After all of the designs and measurements have been

made, it is required to source a manufacturer who will be capable

of fulfilling production needs at the right price, in the right time,

and incurring minimal risk. The purpose of this report is to analyze

manufacturing opportunities in the Philippines to determine where

ERCU will entrust its designs. We want to keep rational feasibility in

mind while also not compromising our core values and ethics in the

creation, distribution, and lifecycle of our proposed products.

SOCIAL

The total population of the Philippines as of June 2012 was 103,775,002,

evenly divided between males and females with an average age of

23.1 years. According to philstar.com, about 40 million of these make

up the labor force while the unemployment rate stands around 6.9%

and the inflation rate as of May 9, 2013, was at 3.2%. Because of their

Spanish background, religion in the Philippines mostly consists of Roman

Catholics (81%) and Protestants (12%), followed by Muslims (5%) and

others (2%), which should not pose any serious restraints on conducting

business. It is also convenient that in addition to speaking their native

language, Filipino, the nation also lists English as their second official

language.

62 63

POLITICAL

In February 1987, the Philippines adopted a new constitution that

instituted the presidential-style republican form of democracy, which

resembles the U.S. model much more than the European parliamentary

system. One key difference between the Philippines and U.S. systems is

that the Philippines is a unitary republic, whereas the United States is a

federal republic, with significant powers reserved for the states. In the

Philippines, by contrast; the national government is not challenged

by local authority. The ratification of the 1987 constitution—the fourth

in the nation’s history—by national referendum signaled the country’s

return to democracy following the autocratic rule of Fernando Marcos

(1965–86). Politics in the Philippines is somewhat tumultuous. In February

2006, the president declared a state of emergency after quashing

the attempted coup staged by the political opposition. The current

president of the Philippines is Benigno Aquino and Philip Goldberg is

the current ambassador to the Philippines from the United States.

ECONOMY

The economy of the Philippines is an anomaly in the Asia-Pacific

region in that it has lagged behind other economies, such as those

of Singapore, South Korea, and Taiwan. From a position as one of the

wealthiest countries in Asia after World War II, the Philippines is now

one of the poorest. Since the 1970s, which were a relatively prosperous

decade, the Philippines has failed to achieve a sustained period of

rapid economic growth and has suffered from recurring economic

crises. This persistent underperformance has occurred in spite of the

Philippines’ rich natural and human resources.

The reasons are rooted partly in history, partly in policy. As a

legacy of the U.S. colonial period, oligopolies have dominated the

economy, particularly in agriculture, where farmland continues to

be concentrated in large estates. In the post-World War II period, the

Philippines pursued a strategy of import substitution industrialization,

whereby domestic goods are substituted for imports. This strategy

required protectionist measures, which led to inefficiencies and

the misallocation of resources. Although some trade protectionist

measures were relaxed in the early twenty-first century, the Supreme

Court continues to support restrictions on foreign ownership of land and

other assets in effect since the constitution of 1935. These restrictions,

plus widespread graft and corruption, have suppressed inbound

foreign direct investment. A historically low rate of taxation—only

about 15 percent of gross domestic product (GDP), partly as a result of

widespread tax evasion—has led to underinvestment in infrastructure

and uneven economic development.

Although trade barriers were scaled back, industrial cartels split up,

and limited reform measures taken in the late twentieth century,

political instability, continuing high levels of corruption, and resistance

to reforms by entrenched interests have prevented the Philippines

from pursuing a consistent and effective economic course. The

64 65

industrial sector continues to decline relative to services, an economic

bright spot in which the Philippines apparently enjoys a comparative

advantage, although some argue that services represent an employer

of last resort. As of April 13, 2014, one Philippine Peso (PHP) was equal

to $0.023 (USD). In 2005 the services sector accounted for about 53.5

percent of GDP; industry, 31.7 percent; and agriculture, forestry, and

fishing, 14.8 percent.

GEOGRAPHY

The Philippines are made of about 7,107 islands located off Southeast

Asia, between the South China Sea on the west and the Philippine

Sea on the east. The major islands are Luzon in the north, the Visayan

Islands in the middle, and the Mindanao in the south. The total area

is about 186,411 square miles including about 185,168 square miles of

land and about 1,243 square miles of water. The Philippines consists of

volcanic islands, including active volcanoes, with mostly mountainous

interiors surrounded by flat lowlands and alluvial plains of varying

widths along the coasts. Research on the Philippines by the Library of

Congress indicates that the islands are also prone to floods, landslides,

earthquakes, and tsunamis. This and the fact that the islands are

located along the typhoon belt which experiences 15 to 20 typhoons

a year, of which five or six may cause serious distraction and/or death,

makes the Philippines a very risky location to choose to manufacture

ECRU’s woven tops.

TRADE

The United States and the Philippines have had a very close trade

relationship for more than a hundred years. According to the Office of

the United States Trade Representative, the US meets regularly with the

Philippines under the auspices of a Trade and Investment Framework

Agreement (TIFA) signed in November 1989. Several additional

agreements have been signed under TIFA auspices, including a customs

administration and trade facilitation protocol (2010), a memorandum

of understanding to cooperate on stopping illegal transshipments of

textiles and apparel (2006), and a memorandum of understanding

regarding the implementation of minimum access commitments by

the Philippines (1998).

U.S.-Philippines Trade Facts

The United States is among the Philippines’ top trading partners, and

it traditionally has been the Philippines’ largest foreign investor. Two-

way goods and services trade between the United States and the

Philippines totaled to $22 billion in 2011. Exports totaled $9.9 billion;

imports totaled $12.1 billion. The U.S. goods and services trade deficit

with the Philippines was $2.2 billion in 2011. The stock of U.S. foreign

direct investment in the Philippines exceeded $5 billion.

Data from the United States Embassy in Manila indicates that the

Philippines is currently the United States’ 36th largest goods trading

partner with $17.6 billion in total (two ways) goods trade during 2012.

66 67

Goods exports totaled $8.1 billion; goods imports totaled $9.6 billion.

The U.S. goods trade deficit with the Philippines was $1.5 billion in 2012.

Trade in services with the Philippines (exports and imports) totaled $5.2

billion in 2011. Services exports were $2.2 billion; services imports were

$3.0 billion. The U.S. services trade deficit with the Philippines was $827

million in 2011.

Exports and Imports

The Philippines was the United States’ 33rd largest goods export market

in 2012. U.S. goods exports to the Philippines in 2012 were $8.1 billion, up

4.6% ($355 million) from 2011, but down 8.3% from 2000. The top export

categories (2-digit HS) in 2011 were: Electrical Machinery ($2.7 billion),

Machinery ($867 million), Cereals (wheat) ($618 million), Flour and

soybean meal ($511 million), and Aircraft ($453 million). U.S. exports of

private commercial services (i.e., excluding military and government)

to the Philippines were $2.2 billion in 2011, 8.7% ($173 million) more

than 2010 and 38% greater than 200 levels. The other private services

(business, professional, and technical services) and travel categories

accounted for most of U.S. exports in 2011.

The Philippines was the United States’ 35th largest supplier of goods

imports in 2012. U.S. goods imports from the Philippines totaled $9.6

billion in 2012, a 4.8% increase ($436 million) from 2011, but down 31.3%

from 2000. The five largest import categories in 2012 were: Electrical

Machinery ($4.0 billion), Machinery ($1.1 billion), Knit Apparel ($617

million), Fats and Oils (mainly coconut oil) ($532 million), and Woven

Apparel ($531 million). U.S. imports of agricultural products from the

Philippines totaled $2.3 billion in 2012. Leading categories include:

coconut oil ($531 million), raw beet and sugar cane ($107 million),

processed fruit ($131 million), tree nuts ($97 million), and fruit and

vegetable juices ($68 million). U.S. imports of private commercial

services (i.e., excluding military and government) were $3.0 billion in

2011, up 12.2% ($324 million) from 2010, and up 94% from 2000 levels.

Other private services (business, professional and technical services)

travel and passenger fares categories account for most of U.S. services

imports from the Philippines.

Investment

U.S. foreign direct investment (FDI) in the Philippines (stock) was $5.3

billion in 2011, a 1.1% decrease from 2010. Reported U.S. FDI in the

Philippines is mostly in the manufacturing sector.

Philippines FDI in the United States (stock) was $114 million in 2011, up

10.7% from 2010. The distribution of Philippines FDI in the United States

is not available. The Office of the United States Trade Representative

also indicates that sales of services in the Philippines by majority U.S.-

owned affiliates were $3.3 billion in 2010 (latest data available), while

sales of services in the United States by majority Philippines-owned

firms were $37 million.

68 69

US & PHILIPPINES TRADE AGREEMENT

The United States and the Philippines have had a close trade relationship

for more than a century. The two sides meet regularly under the

auspices of the TIFA, which is the coordinating mechanism for trade

and investment policy discussions between our two governments.

Total goods trade between the United States and the Philippines is

about $18 billion, up 41 percent since 2009. Services trade is growing

rapidly and exceeded $6 billion in 2012, also up 41 percent from

2009. U.S. foreign direct investment in Philippines is roughly $5 billion,

concentrated in manufacturing.

The United States and the Philippines today concluded a two-day

meeting under the Trade and Investment Framework Agreement

(TIFA), agreeing to a program of expanded engagement in coming

months on bilateral, regional, and multilateral issues. The meetings

were chaired by Assistant U.S. Trade Representative Barbara Weisel

and Philippine Undersecretary of Trade Adrian Cristobal. In addition,

senior officials from other agencies on both sides participated in the

meeting, including Philippine Agriculture Department under Secretary

Segfredo Serrano and Edgardo Albon, Chairman of the Philippine

Tariff Commission.

On bilateral issues, the United States recognized the considerable

efforts the Philippines has made to strengthen its intellectual property

regime and overall framework for protecting worker rights, two areas

of focus of recent U.S.-Philippine cooperation. The two sides agreed

to establish a new work program on labor affairs under the TIFA to

further our efforts. In addition, the United States and Philippines held

detailed discussions of agricultural trade, including related to rice and

meat, and these discussions will continue in the coming weeks.

In response to Philippine interest in the Trans-Pacific Partnership (TPP)

agreement, the United States briefed the Philippines on the goals and

objectives that the twelve TPP countries are seeking to achieve. The

two sides began a program of technical consultations to provide

the Philippine government the detailed information it will need to

consider whether to seek to join the TPP agreement. The Office of the

United States Trade Representative also found that the United States

and Philippines also agreed to intensify cooperation on U.S.-ASEAN

issues and on the trade and investment agenda for APEC, which the

Philippines will host in 2015.

70 71

CONCLUSION

There are many benefits to come of manufacturing in the Philippines,

however there are great risks, specifically the unpredictable nature

of their numerous natural disasters. The quality of their manufacturers

is still unclear as far as meeting the standards of ECRU, however, I

am very interested in the technology of creating eco-friendly and

sustainable fiber from pineapple and banana, which would certainly

coincide with the ECRU values. In closing, the Philippines may not

be a viable first candidate in our search for a manufacturer, but it

cannot be overlooked given it’s recent advances in technology and

sustainability.

Why we didn’t choose Philippines:

The Philippines was eliminated for many reasons. First, the political

environment is not very assuring. More specifically, the ease of

corruption makes for a disheartening business climate. If the

Philippines government is unreliable to their own business climate,

they surely will not be flexible to foreign businesses. Also, the textile

industry is not supported by the government and there are currently

no trade agreements in place between the Philippines and the

United States.

In addition, the natural disasters in the Philippines are numerous and

would not support ECRU’s need to have a steady flow of product for

our Basic’s line. There is a monsoon season that could be tolerable

as long as we manage the amount of product being manufactured

at that time, however there are also active volcanos, earthquakes,

and tsunamis that could make product investment more of a risk

than affordable for a small company like ECRU.

Finally, of the five countries researched, the Philippines had

great potential in their manufacturing facilities, however there

was little information to be found and contact was very difficult

to establish. The selection highlighted more disposable bag

manufacturers, weavers, and sports bag manufacturers. Of the

seemingly suitable manufacturers, none replied to ECRU’s emails.

The emails were either invalid or kicked back due to a full inbox.

When phoned, the manufacturers failed to answer. Of those who

had voicemails, none of the calls were returned - even when we

provided our country code in the telephone number and spelled out

our email address. All of these reasons, when compared to the other

four countries, presented us with a situation where we saw it best to

move on without the Philippines.

72 73

CHINA

Economic Climate

Economy Structure and History

• Market socialism economic system

• GDP-real growth ranked 14 and GDP-purchasing power ranked 3

• The economic development started since the economy reform in 1978

Currency

• Use Yuan /RMB as currency unit

• Current currency 1 USD= 6.25 Chinese Yuan

• Currency rate is controlled by the government

Inflation

•Inflation rate has a increasing tend

Unployment Rate

• Current unemployment rate is 4.1%

• Stable near 4% since 2008

Labor Cost

• Minimum monthly wage is $293, $0.085 per minute in Apparel

Industry

• Rising minimum wage for couple times in past years

• Labor cost will continue in growth

Reform and Promoting

• Reform in 1978, joined WTO in 2001, Free Trade Zone in Shanghai

2013

• Chinese governor state China rules out strong economy stimulus

74 75

Political Climate

Voice and Accountability

• Government controls over the freedoom of expression

• The Media is controled by the government as well

• Government lack of accountability

Political Stability

• Taiwan and Tibet Indpendence issue

• Xinjiang Violence against government

Government Effectiveness and Corruption

• Government effectiveness rated 60.7 (100 is highest) is at an

acceptable level

• Goverment is corrupted

• Some companies violate the regulation and bribe the governors for

avoiding punishment

Counterfeiting

• Chinese government lack of protection of Intellectual property

• Counterfeiting is a big isssue in Chinese Apparel industry

 China's Free Trade Agreements

 Name

 Effective Date

 Countries

 Textile and Apparel Related Regulation

     

China-ASEAN FTA

     

January 1st 2005

 Indonesia,

Brunei,Malaysia,Vietnam, Singapore, Burma,

Thailand,Cambodia, Phillipines,Laos

 Using "negatvie list" method for FTA for goods. Goods not on the negative list are regarded as regular goods. ( woven apparel falls into the regular goods category) Tariff to the old members of ASEAN was removed since 2010 Jan 1st ( for regular goods) and Tariff to the new members of ASEAN will be removed in 2015.

     

China-Pakistan FTA

     

July1st 2007

     

Pakistan

     

Most of the woven fabric falls in the list of "Zero Tariff to Pakistan" Detail on fta.mofcom.gov.cn -"zero tariff list to Pakistan"

     

China-Chile FTA

     Apirl 13th 2008

     

Chile

     

No tariff for apparel and textile

   

China-New Zealand FTA

   

October 1st 2008

   

New Zealand New Zealand will remove all the tariff for leather garment, knitting apparel, shoes in 2016 Jan 1st (part of them was removed in 2014 Jan1st) Since 2009 China has signed the preferential agreement for all wool and wool products imported from New Zealand and no tariff

     China-Singapore FTA

     January 1st 2009

     

Singapore

   

No tariff for goods export from China to Singapore since January 1st 2009 No Tariff for 97.1% goods import from singapore since January 1st 2012

   

China-Peru FTA

   April 28th 2009

   

Peru

 The goods were divided into 5 different categories and most of the apparel and textile products fall into the first two categories and the tariff would be removed within 5 years after the FTA signed.

Mainland-Hong Kong Closer Economic and

Partnership (CEPA)Arrangement

   

2003

   

Mainland-Hongkong

   

"One country, Two system" No tariff

   

Mainland-Macau CEPA Arrangement

   

2003

   

Mainland- Macau

   

"One country, Two system" No tariff

   China-Costa Rica FTA

   

Nov-08

   

Costa Rica  No tariff for 90% of the goods (both export and import) since August 1st 2011, Textile and Apparel falls into the 90%

     

China-Iceland FTA

     April 15th 2013

     

Iceland

   

No tariff for 99.7% of the goods export from china to Iceland, and no tariff for 81.56% of the goods import from Iceland to China. Textile and Apparel falls into

these categories.

   

China-Switzerland FTA

     

July 6th 2013

     

Switzerland

     

Reduced the tariff for textile and apparel that export from China to Switzerland

   The Asia-Pacific Trade

Agreement (APTA)

     

1975

 China,Bangladesh, India, Republic of

Korea, Lao People's Democratic Republic

and Sri Lanka

 1767 Tariff lines originating from Bangladesh and the Lao People's Democratic Republic are given conventional tariff rates for exports to China. These countries are trading with a preferential tariff 0.5% to 5.0% lower than the applied MFN tariff for 50-63 HS

 

Trade Agreeements

76 77

Textile Industry

The Apparel/industry was one of the industries that Chinese government

choice to start for the open door policy (the reform in 1978) and it

is one of the essence industry since then. The industry had a sign of

continuing growth since 1979, the average annual growth rate of

total value of textile and clothing output was 13.2%, the total industrial

value increase about 7% every year from 1997 to 2002 (except the year

Asian financial crisis,1998). And after 2002, the year China joined the

WTO, most of the products in this industry grow even faster. (See detail

in the image 4.7) Currently, China is the biggest player in producing

apparel and textile including cotton, yarn, wool fiber, cotton fabric, silk

fabric, garments, chemical fibers and knitted goods. (Detail data in

the size section) It has a trend of reduced employment in the apparel/

textile industry, however, it is a sign of development in productivity and

efficiency. The industry will be continuing in growth, and with the rise

of labor cost and advancing technology it has a trend of entering the

high-end market section.

The Chinese textile market has a total value of 161.7 billion dollars (2012)

and in the past five years the CAGR is 10.8 %. The Fabrics account

76.5% of the total and yarns account for 23.5%. In Asia-Pacific industry,

it accounts 41.0% of the total. (Marketline)

Position in the Country

Apparel and Textile industry is one of the pilar Industry in China since

the release of open door policy. Since then, China gained a substantial

market share in the international apparel and textile trade. In 1980,

China was accounting for 4.6% of the world’s total exports, and ranked

as number nine and then since 1995, it ranked number 1 in the world

and the growth steadily continued. (Qiu) From China National Textile

and Apparel Council statistics, the value of China exported garment

and textile products worth $42.4 billion in first two months of 2013 and it

was 34.1 percent higher than the same period in 2012 and 8.3 percent

higher than the general export growth in the country. (Xinhua) All

these data showed evidence of the importance of apparel/ textile

industry in China and its steadily growing trend.

Government Support &WTO

There are three major supports to the apparel/textile industry from

government, since the release of 11th 5-Year Plan for the Textile

Industry in 2006 by the State Development and Reform Commission.

These policies are, develop the innovation and building Chinese brand

to the world market, and improve the technologies and equipment

and restricting inefficient polluting. (Qiu) Another important action

made by the government was being member of WTO. Since WTO

allow Members to seek resource in WTO organization, it benefited

Chinese Apparel/Textile industry because of the limitation reduction

on exporting.

78 79

Reasons for Business

China is known as the biggest manufacturer in the world especially in

apparel industry. There are several reasons made China to be the first

choice of manufacturing for their garments. First, China has the biggest

textile industry, which is the nature advantage for manufacturing

apparel. China produces bulk amount of silk, cotton, and wool. Besides,

China has Free Trade agreement with Australia (known for best quality

wool) and could import wool from Australia without tariff and FTA with

Peru for high quality cotton, Thailand for high quality silk as well.

Second, China has abundant experience of exporting. China is the

biggest exporter and second largest importer. Since the revolution in

1979, Chinese government started to support international trading.

Nowadays, they are really experienced in trading internationally and

strong government support. Thirdly, Sophisticated logistic system and

various choices of suppliers are other advantages of manufacturing

our garments. China has more than 1500 apparel manufacturers and

many of them also provide P.O service and clear customs for customers.

This could bring convenience to us for avoiding extra process to bring

the merchandise into U.S

COUNTRIES - SWOT ANALYSIS

SWOT ANALYSIS                          

Strength  

- Green Conscious  

-Sufficient Labor Force  

- Strong Connections with Customers

 

- High Standards For Quality and Craftsmanship

 

 

 

 

Weakness  

- 30-Year Civil War Ended in 2009

 

- Sri Lankan People Lost Trust in Government

 

- Strict Business Etiquette to Follow When Conducting Business  

   

Opportunity  

- Becoming Number One Apparel Exporter in World - Political and Economic

Stability

- Leaders in Green and Sustainable Manufacturing

 

   

Threat  

- High Amount of Debt  

- Losing Revenues After War  

- Much Competition Throughout the World  

- Monsoon and Typhoon Season 9 Months/Year    

         

SRI LANKA

80 81

SWOT ANALYSIS                          

Strength  

- Dollarized  

- Close ties to the US

- Stable labor force

- $0.10 /min manufacturing cost

- Government support for apparel and textile industry

 

- Part of CAFTA-DR  

 

 

Weakness  

- Gang violence - Corruption - Costly transportation - Weak accountability

of government - Apparel focus is

predominantly on knitwear and synthetics

 

   Opportunity

 - Elimination of tariffs with

CAFTA-DR - Government held conference to

identify opportunities in Apparel sector

- Close proximity could result in receiving product quicker

- Recently rebuilt port may become a hub for transportation

 

Threat  

- Prone to natural disasters - Political uncertainty with

newly elected president  

               

EL SALVADOR INDIA SWOT ANALYSIS

                 

Strength - Skilled and specialized labors in apparel sector. - Second largest young workforce in the world - The largest cotton producer as well as cotton products. - Supportive foreign policy - Many English spoken professionals - Cost advantage    

 

 

Weakness  

- Poor infrastructure - Inadequate discipline and management - Corruption - Weak implementation on compliance in code of conducts - Unclean environment - Uncertain time management

Opportunity - Ease of investment - New government supporting Free Trade Agreements and other policies - Improving economy - Readymade garments dominate exports - Rising incomes and growing middle-class - Increase in exports  

 

Threat    

- Low proportion of high technology exports - Increasing air pollution - Recent terrorisms discourage investors

         

INDIA

82 83

SWOT ANALYSIS                          

Strength  

-High growth potential  

-Young & growing labor force

 

-Developing textile technologies

 

-Logistic convenience  

 

 

Weakness  

-Corrupt government  

-Long lead times  

- Limited product placement

-No Trade Agreements with the U.S.  

 

   

Opportunity

 

- Free Trade Zone, remove trading barriers

 

- Continuing trend for industrialization

 

-­‐  Opportunity  for  investment    

 

Threat  

-Natural Disasters  

-High inflation rate  

-Currency manipulation allegation  

-Government Restriction  

 

               

PhilippinesSWOT ANALYSIS

                         

Strength  

-High growth potential  

-Sufficient Labor Force  

-Leading position in the industry

 

-Government support for apparel and textile industry

 

-Logistic convenience  

 

 

Weakness  

-Unstable government  

-Lack of Intellectual Property right protection  

- Weak accountability of government  

-High tariff    

Opportunity  

- Free Trade Zone, Remove trading barriers

 

- Continuing trend for industrialization

 

-­‐  Huge  market  for      investment    

Threat  

-Increasing labor cost  

-High inflation rate  

-Currency manipulation allegation  

-Government Restriction    

                     

CHINA

84 85

 

The factors we took into consideration to compare the countries

for placing our products are listed in the chart. Overall, El Salvador

has the highest score, follow by China and India, Sri Lanka, and

Philippines was rated to be the lowest.

 

We broke down 6 factors, including communication convenience,

textile industry condition, labor cost, trade agreement, overall

atmosphere in trading apparel and location, to evaluate the benefits

for each country. Based on this evaluation chart, we rated China, India

and El Salvador to be the higher ones. China has the most sophisticated

textile industry and FTA with many other countries could with the textile-

supplying sources. India has the cheapest labor cost compare to other

countries, and communication convenience. El Salvador is the nearest

country to the United States and has assigned CAFTA with the U.S.

Philippines and Sri Lanka have fewer benefits.

COUNTRY RANKINGS

86 87

 

We evaluated countries’ business climate based on 5 aspects, the

logistic performance, lead time to export, ease of doing business,

government support, opennes to foreigners. China and Sri Lanka were

rated to be highest countries, India and El Salvador were slightly lower,

Philippines has the lowest score majorly because apparel industry is not

supported by government and people are more likely to make money

in other industries.

Cost

India has the lowest labor cost among these five selected countries,

which is $0.080 per minute for apparel industry, and $200 dollars per

month for general minimum wage. China is the second lowest, $0.085

per minute and $240/month minimum wage, however because of

the continuing growth of labor cost recent years, China was rated

the same as Philippines and Sri Lanka (around $0.10 per minute). El

Salvador was rated slightly higher than China, Philippines and Sri Lanka

because of the exemption of tariff that lower the total cost.

Government

Generally, these five countries’ government overall are not in positive

position, and each country has its own issues. The Chinese government

has a lack of accountability, over control of media, lack of transparency

and has some corruption issues as well. Sri Lanka just ended the Civil war

in 2009, the government lack supports by citizens and has corruption

issues as well. The Philippines’ government is heavily corrupted and has

many embezzlement issues. El Salvador has a newly selected president

with anti-US associates, and the government has foreseen instability

concerns. So, these four countries were all rated as 5. Comparatively,

India has a more stable government. India has a new government

with promising bilateral trade ties but some corruption issues still exist.

88 89

Location

India, Sri Lanka, and the Philippines are all located in southwest Asia

and have long lead-times for shipping merchandise to the U.S. China

is closer to the U.S and has a more sophisticated logistic system which

made China’s rating 1 point higher than the other three countries. El

Salvador, located in Central America, has the advantage of having

the shortest leading time.

 

The comparison factors of risks for selected five countries are listed

in the chart above and evaluated threats from these aspects. Each

country has its own issues and generally China, India and El Salvador

have fewer risks for conducting business.

Social Stability

Factors such as, the happiness of people in the country, uprisings, war,

gang violence, population growth were taken into consideration to

evaluate social stability of the selected countries. China’s biggest

concern for social stability is the internal terrorist threats, and the

Xinjiang violence. The Tibet independence issues are also influencing

90 91

the Chinese society in a very negative way. India has internal and

external terrorist as well. In Sri Lanka, citizens are not happy with the

new government that just established after the civil war. The major

concern for El Salvador’s social stability is the gang violence, and

the crime and violence is threatening the social development. The

Philippines has a more stable society with no big threats compared to

other four countries.

Sourcing Guidelines

Sri Lanka, the Philippines, and El Salvador companies all have

acceptable sourcing guidelines that match with ECRU’s, especially Sri

Lanka which known for green production. China’s sourcing guideline

is not matching international standard and had several issues while

trading, but the latest news indicate the government is enforcing the

labor laws and trying to improve the current condition. India has child

labor issues but the overall sourcing guidelines control is not as bad as

China.

Textile Industry

Among these five countries, China has the biggest strength in textile

industry with abundant raw materials like silk, cotton and wool. Besides,

the Chinese government has also invested large amounts of money

in purchasing high quality facilities with new technology. India is the

second strongest, it has abundant raw materials as well and the overall

industry is in a high growth condition. The supply for raw material in Sri

Lanka is not as strong as China and India, but they have many factories

and textile/ apparel industry is their biggest industry in the country.

El Salvador is specialized for producing knits and synthetic textile but

lack of raw materials and versatile for production. The Philippines was

rated to be lowest because of the textile and apparel industry, which

is not supported by the government and in a slow development pace

especially in infrastructure.

Trade Agreements

El Salvador is the only country that has a Free Trade Agreement with

U.S. The CAFTA-DR gives free trade if all parts of product are sourced

in a participating country. No quotas on imports to U.S. China has 12

FTA with other countries, like Australia, Peru, ASSEAN (south east Asian

countries) that could bring benefits for sourcing materials from other

countries with lower costs. India only has FTA with ASSEAN and

negotiation FTA with Canada and EU countries. Sri Lanka has FTA with

Pakistan and India. Philippines has no trade agreement could benefit

apparel and Textile industry

92 93

SUPPLIER ANALYSIS

Sri Lanka • Brandix Lanka Limited Pvt. Ltd.

• Hirdaramani International

Export Pvt. Ltd.

• Eam Maliban Textiles Pvt. Ltd.

El Salvador• Industrias Merlet S.A. de C.V.

• Picacho S.A. DE C.V.

• Vexsal, S.A. De C.V.

Supplier Selection

Suppliers’ Highlights & Textile Industies

Country Selection

Ratings Spreadsheet

India• Karle International Ltd.

• Mira Exim, Ltd

• Eves Fashion

Philippines• Reliance Apparel & Fashion Manufacturing, Inc.

• Hamlin Industrial Corporation

• Excellent Quality Apparel Inc.

China• SC International Garment & Accessories Ltd.

• Jiaxiang Jingle Fashion

• Hangzhou Ourun Fashion Co. Ltd.

Countries with Top 3 Suppliers

SRI LANKA - SUPPLIERS

Sri Lanka’s apparel industry is the highest contributor to the Sri Lankan

exports as well as the countries over all economy. The manufacturing

industry has grown significantly in the past three years and now employs

600,000 workers. Sri Lanka benefits highly from its positioning at the

intersection of the major trade routes between Africa, South and East

Asia, Europe and the Persian Gulf. The manufacturers and factories in

Sri Lanka have won numerous awards for their “Green” practices and

are setting the bar very high for other top manufacturers in countries

around the world. Sri Lanka manufactures apparel for companies

ranging from high end to low end, including Burberry, Fifth and Pacific

Companies, Ralph Lauren, Levi Strauss, Nike, Patagonia, Guess, Gap,

Banana Republic and many more. (Panjiva)

94 95

1) Brandix Lanka Limited Pvt. Ltd.409 Galle Road, Colombo 3

Sri Lanka

Phone: +94 11 4727222

Fax: +94 11 2575485

Email: [email protected]

www.brandix.com

Specialization: Woven, Knitted Garments, Intimates and Activewear

Brandix is the largest apparel exporter in Sri Lanka. The company

opened its first plant in 1972 and they now operate 42 plants across

the island and employ over 47,000 individuals. The company sends

about 80 shipments a month and they also create their own buttons,

thread, fabric and hangers in house. Brandix’s customers include Gap,

Old Navy, Lands End, Banana Republic, Lucy Active Wear and Diesel

USA. (Panjiva)

The company has very strong ties to creating green, environmentally

friendly factories and have created the worlds first even LEED

Platinum rated manufacturing facility. Brandix values integrity,

teamwork, customer service, learning and development, ownership

and commitment. The company’s values and commitment to the

environment match Ecru’s company make up seamlessly. The

fact that this company has worked with well known brands and goes

above and beyond to make the customer, as well as their employees

happy is something that certainly resonates with Ecru. (Panjiva)

(brandix.com)

2) Eam Maliban Textiles Pvt. Ltd.261, Siri Dahmma, Mawaatha

Colombo, Sri Lanka

Phone: +94 1268 6391

Fax: +94 1269 9513

Email: [email protected]

www.maliban.com

Specialization: Blouses, Shirts and Bottoms

Eam Maliban Textiles opened 38 years ago in 1976. The factory

delivers anywhere from 20 to 200 shipments each month and produced

a total of 1200 shipments in 2012. Their customers include Gap, Lands

End Joseph A. Banks, Banana Republic, Burberry, Brooks Brother and

Ralph Lauren. The company is part of the Garments Without Guilt

Organization and adheres to a strict code of ethical guidelines and

practices to develop their products economically. (Panjiva)

This manufacturer takes part in corporate social responsibility

and maintains sustainable levels of water, chemical and energy

usage, practices safe waste disposal and continuously acts to improve

their carbon footprint. Eam Maliban contributes much of its efforts

96 97

to improving the country, community and lifestyles of its employees

and offers them and their families many benefits outside of the work

environment. (Panjiva)

Eam Maliban is “committed to producing world class products”,

and again they would be a great manufacturer for us to work with.

They have supplied to top retailers, on the same level, quality and

price points of our garments. But, they also

have a strong social, economically and philanthropic commitment to

their country, their community and their workers, which is very important

to Ecru. (Panjiva) (maliban.com)

3) Hirdaramani International Export Pvt. Ltd.Level 23, West Tower, World Trade Center

Echelon Square, Colombo, Sri Lanka

Phone: +94 77 7744180

Fax: +94 11 2446135

Email: [email protected]

www.hirdaramani.com

Specialization: Woven Garments

Hirdaramani International Export has been in business for 120 years

and operates 28 factories in Sri Lanka, Bangladesh and Vietnam. The Sri

Lankan Factory opened in 1954 and has grown to reach a capacity of

1 million garments per month. The facility delivers about 250 shipments

each month. Their customers again range from high-end to lower end

but the facility mainly specializes in woven garments. Their customers

include, Levi’s, Patagonia, The North Face, Guess, Fifth and Pacific

Companies, Liz Claiborne, Ralph Lauren, Nike, Eddie Bauer and many

more. (Panjiva)

The company’s main focus has always been on fit, style and quality

and they have been called “the pioneers in the apparel industry”.

Hirdaramani has a high focus on corporate social responsibility and

has become the first carbon neutral factory in Asia. They are constantly

looking for new ways to cut back to improve their carbon footprint

and help the environment. Hirdaramani also adheres to a strict ethical

code of conduct and standards. The company offers free

healthcare to their employees and their families, they offer free training

programs

and leadership opportunities for staff members and are constantly

investing back into the community in local sports and schools to help

further the country as a whole. (Panjiva)

This manufacturer would be perfect for Ecru. Their amazing

sustainability act and their motivation to cut back on emissions and

help save the environment is something Ecru is very passionate about

as well. Creating a business that has strong integrity and gives back

to the community is what Ecru has made it our mission to do. Creating

garments with such a sustainable and philanthropic manufacturer

like Hirdaramani is exactly the right partner to have on our mission.

(Panjiva) (hirdaramani.com)

98 99

EL SALVADOR - SUPPLIERS

El Salvador has 62 suppliers that manufacture apparel, 15 of which

manufacture women’s apparel. Many of the manufacturers lack a

website and several show inactivity in recent years on Panjiva. Although

El Salvador produces both woven and knit apparel, the woven apparel

is predominantly for bottoms, children’s wear and men’s button down

shirting while knit apparel has greater diversity and is produced in

much larger quantities.

1) Industrias Merlet S.A. de C.V.Merlet was established in 1980 and specializes in knitwear, loungewear

and active-wear but also produces women, misses and juniors blouses

(Merlet). They are located at Industrias Merlet, S.A. de C.V. Calle

Why we selected these manufacturers:

When looking at these manufacturers it is clear that they are all very

concerned with the quality and craftsmanship of their garments as well

as their ethical standings in the workplace and with the environment.

Because both Sri Lanka and Ecru very invested in keeping the

environment safe, this country and its apparel facilities is a very strong

contenders for manufacturers Ecru’s women’s woven tops. Due to the

fact that not all of these manufacturers specialize in woven wear, we

have narrowed down the selection to the top three; Hirdaramani, Eam

Maliban and Trendy Wear.

100 101

Circunvalación, Polígono A #3, Urbanización Industrial La Laguna,

Antiguo Cuscatlán, La Libertad, El Salvador, C.A. and can be found

online at http://www.imerlet.com/. Merlet’s Vision is “To become

a leading international apparel company, providing integrated

production capabilities, design and commercialization services with

the highest quality standards; thus satisfying our customers’ demands in

a prompt, efficient and reliable manner, which permits us to enhance

and support the economic and social development of our associates

and Country” (Merlet). They are well developed in knit apparel

and capabilities include design, development, manufacturing and

distribution of fabrics and apparel. Customers include Levi Strauss,

Tailgate Clothing Co. and Carhartt. Merlet has experience with over

1,754 shipments and is able to produce 400,000 units/week, while lead

time varies between 2-12 weeks (“Technical Profile”).

Merlet’s values appear to be in line with that of Ecru’s as they practice

nondiscrimination and equal opportunities and value safety and

hygiene through the conduction of internal and external audits.

They do not employ anyone under the age of 18 and abide by all

government laws including hours of work, overtime compensation,

minimum wage and fringe benefits.

2) Picacho S.A. DE C.V. Picacho is a woven apparel manufacturing company located at

Km. 26.5 Carretera a Santa Ana La Libertad, El Salvador which was

established in 1992 with a mission to become the regional leader in

quality dress shirt manufacturing. In 2006 Picacho merged with BVM

which has their corporate headquarters in New York. Picacho’s

website can be found at www.picacho.com.sv/home.htm and more

information can be found at www.B-W-A.com under manufacturing.

Picacho’s customers include Ben Watcher Associates which has

ordered over 900 shipments primarily of men’s poplin shirts, Liz Claiborne,

LL Bean, Dillard’s, DKNY and Izod. The majority of their orders have

been cotton shirting although products include woven sport shirts

and blouses, high end security uniforms, sleepwear and loungewear.

Although their orders are predominantly men’s wear, they produce

women’s and children’s wear as well as their “main goal is to be

flexible, to respond quickly and efficiently, making sure that your order

is processed promptly and according to your exact specifications”

(Products and Services). Their capacity is 350,000 units a month and

50,000 units per week specifically in woven shirts (“Manufacturing

Specs”). Lead times for garment production are 30 days from date of

fabric received at the factory and garments are shipped FOB from El

Salvador or LDP from BVM public warehouses in Miami Florida (http://

b-w-a.com/manufacturing-2/ ).

Production facilities include a sewing room, a cutting room, a

trims warehouse, a fabric warehouse, a product development office

and an administrative building. The company strongly believes in in the

well-being of their employees and invests in them through the offering

102 103

of a healthcare clinic where employees and their families receive free

medical attention, a community school for the children of employees

ages 5 through 17, a free daycare open to the community as well as

employees staffed by trained nannies, a cafeteria and bakery and

a discount store in addition at having recreation facilities such as a

soccer field and volleyball court (“Social Responsibility”).

3) Vexsal, S.A. De C.V.Vexal is a manufacturing company which specializes in men’s woven

shirts. Of the 242 shipments that appear on Panjiva, 170 utilized cotton

fabric, while 53 included woven shirts. Clients include Wal-Mart, Nu

Image Fabrics, Paris Accessories Inc and Ben Elias Industries Corp.

Vexal is located at Carretera Panamericana Ote Km 15 San Martin and

although they lack a website, they were recommended to me by the

Vice President of Pro Dept, Ali Gitomer. In speaking to Roberto Bonilla,

I learned that Vexal has been in business for 22 years and produces

60,000 units/week with a 2.5 week lead time. The company values

their employees and only hires those ages 18 and above although

most employees hired are age 20 and above. Employees work 44 hour

weeks, earn minimum wage plus a bonus and are subsidized food. In

the same phone interview I learned that Vexel strives to be ecofriendly

and recycles bi-products and all cartons and gives left over fabric to

recycling companies for reuse.

While El Salvador has been making advancements in the

apparel and textile industry, it is knitwear and synthetic textiles that

they predominantly produce. Some woven apparel is made but it is

almost always for bottoms. In speaking with some of the manufacturing

companies, it became very apparent that El Salvador is not the place

for ECRU to manufacture it’s woven tops as they could only direct me

to 2 companies that produce woven tops, and one of them only makes

woven shirts for men. If for some reason none of the other countries ECRU

is sourcing are a better option, I would recommend manufacturing

with Picacho as they already work with several American companies

and their values seem align with those of ECRU. I would suggest visiting

the factory and talking to the owners and employees prior to making

any decision if ECRU does decide to manufacture in El Salvador.

104 105

India has almost 850 suppliers that manufacture and specialize in

woven apparels. Women apparel industry in India is very competitive

and many companies’ contact and information are available online

through individual and trade websites. However, many companies

don’t provide valid information about their customers, product

quality, and sourcing guidelines; some produce only knitted clothing,

some don’t have adequate services, and some don’t even do

businesses with the US companies. ECRU was able to find several

suppliers that meet the criteria in terms of ability in making quality

women’s woven cotton tops, valid customers, services, production

capability, and management. Among the 5 suppliers we initially

selected, we narrowed down to 3 potential suppliers that are able

INDIA - SUPPLIERS

to produce ECRU’s products. Not only these suppliers can make

women’s woven tops but also their customers are notable and high-

end US retailers that provide similar products to ECRU. They provide

other services and capability that will help ECRU grow as a company

in the future.

Ecru looks for suppliers who have these following criteria:

1) Karle International Ltd. This supplier can produce any type of garments from basic to

fashion. It can also manufacture casual wear, activewear (seam

sealed jackets, rain gear, jogging suits, swim shorts), and refined

collections. Products offered range from tops (shirts/blouses),

bottoms (pants/skirts/crop), and outer wears (jackets/blazers/

overcoat) The supplier not only specializes in womenswear but also

have abilities to make menswear and childrenswear as well. The

most important thing is that Karle International is able to produce

women woven tops from cotton fabrics for ECRU. The factory locates

in Bangalore where it’s known for IT hub and woven apparel area.

There are over 6500 employees working in four manufacturing

units. The company has annual turnover around $55 US million and

manufacturing capacity of 450,000 units monthly. Its customers

consist of notable retailers such as Ann Taylor, J. Crew, Esprit, Express,

Ralph Lauren, American Eagle Outfitters, Eddie Bauer, Nordstrom,

106 107

Superdry, and Coldwarer Creek. The supplier provides multiple

services from design development, raw material sourcing, sampling,

lab test, cutting, sewing, finishing, and washing. The company takes

approximately 90 days for the lead time. The factories are audited

and approved by nominated auditor for Compliance and Social

accountability. The company has participated in conservation of

Environment and prepare Environment policy, waste management

& rain water harvesting. The supplier is highly committed to new

innovation and creativity. Its core values consist of excellent quality,

corporate social responsibility, transparency, and sustainability. The

products are also very well constructed and professional made.

2) Mira Exim, LtdThe supplier are specialized in women’s woven and knitted

clothing. Its customers consist of high-end retailers such as JP Boden,

Sugartown Worldwide Inc, Stella McCartney, Nicole Farhi, Bebe,

Burberry, Diane Von Furstenberg. The supplier takes approximately 90

to 120 days for the lead time. The supplier offers the highest standard

of quality and punctual delivery at competitive prices. Mira Exim

Ltd is also an ISO 9001:2008 and SA 8000:2008 certified organization

in which it follows international standards and regulations. The

company emphasizes its sourcing guideline which include ethical

business practices, sustainability concern, safe and healthy

environment, as well as opposing child labor, forced labor, or any

unethical practices. All these qualities are relevant to Ecru’s business

practices and sourcing guidelines as well.

3) Eve FashionThe supplier is specialized in women’s woven tops, readymade

garments, and accessories. Its customers consist of notable retailers

like Benetton, DW Shop and Primark. The company has annual

turnover around $3 US million and manufacturing capacity of 125,000

units monthly with approximately 75-90 days lead time. The company

has adequate quality control such as fabric inspection, cutting

control, fabric process control, and In-house inspection. The factory is

fully equipped with updated technology and modern manufacturing

facilities. The company also operates with integrity and has concern

over social environmental responsibility and sourcing guideline

such as air cooled and well lit facilities, fire safety measures, water

treatment plant, prohibition of child labor, first-aid facilities, recycling

of resources, and energy efficient devices.

108 109

PHILIPPINES - SUPPLIERS

1) Reliance Apparel & Fashion Manufacturing, Inc.

Producing 200,000 pieces per month, Reliance Apparel seems to be

the most qualified and skilled manufacturer in the Philippines regarding

woven apparel. Reliance has a commitment to pursue excellence

and always invests in new machinery, upgrades their technology,

and improves processes, systems, and procedures in order to be in

the forefront of the industry. Out of the five manufacturers researched

in the Philippines, Reliance would be the best facility to entrust with

creating our products.

2) Hamlin Industrial Corporation

Hamlin offers various capabilities in product assortment and quality

for men’s and women’s contemporary sportswear. According to the

information available, they are able to produce about 50,000 items

per month. Hamlin has potential to be a good manufacturer for ECRU’s

woven tops.

110 111

3) Excellent Quality Apparel Inc.

Excellent Quality Apparel promises a lot in its name, however very little

is delivered as far as available information. Although EQ conducts

business with reputable brands, the lack of information available is

disheartening and may not be viable for ECRU to do business with.

CHINA - SUPPLIERS

1) Jiaxiang Jingle Fashion

112 113

Evaluation

The biggest advantage of Jiaxing Jingle is their high quality of

garments, as well as their specialization in tops. The company has had

much experience supplying to high-end brands such as Burberry, CK

and Guess. The only issue may potentially be the longer lead time.

Since we do not have sufficient experience with scheduling, the long

lead-time might pose a problem for the release of new collection.

2) SC International Garment & Accessories Ltd.

Evaluation

SC is not as experienced as other companies since it has only been in

business for 8 years. However, they do specialize in shirts and have a

great deal of experience in working with American customers such as

Tommy Hilfiger. SC may be a very good choice for our manufacturing

because they do accept small quantity orders. Furthermore, they

provide a very in depth code of conduct matching very closely to

that of Ecru’s.

3) Hangzhou Ourun Fsshion Co. Ltd.

Evaluation

Ourun could be considered as a very internationalized company.

According to their company introduction, they are able to produce

114 115

garments with consistent quality and in short lead-time in bulk. The

company has a significant amount of experience, especially for

international customers and language barriers will not pose problems

when conducting business. However, most of the products they make

are for mass-market or fast fashion, the quality control could be a

major issue.

In the initial process of selecting suppliers in China the first

factor we took into consideration are the sourcing guidelines from

the suppliers and their quality because these are the core value

of our company. China has a very negative reputation in the past

years following the government policy and obeying the sourcing

guidelines. The sourcing guidelines established by companies in

China are lower than the international standard. Even Chinese

government is trying to reinforce related labor laws and policies,

investigate suppliers’ sourcing guidelines is an important process for

selection.

Besides, as a high end store in NYC quality is our key competence

especially for our basic items (woven tops), which need to be worn

year round by customers. In order to avoid loosing customers, we

need to select the suppliers that have strict quality control on their

produced products.

One of the strategies we used to evaluate their code of conduct

and quality control is view their previous customers. Companies

and brands that have good reputation and abundant experience

sourcing manufacture internationally are more likely to build

relationship and conduct cooperation with reliable suppliers. In the

chosen 3 suppliers, especially Jiaxing Jingle, they all have a strong

customer list consists reputable brands like Burberry, Guess and

Adolfo Dominguez.

Besides the quality and sourcing guidelines of the suppliers we

also evaluated their capacity, lead-time, customers, experience,

focus, whether they could produce satisfactory level woven

garments. Based on these evaluations we selected Hangzhou Ourun

Fashion Co., Ltd, because of its shortest lead-time and high efficiency

customer service; SC International Garments and Accessories Co.

Ltd. since its code of conduct highly matches with ECRU’s, they are

also very experienced in producing woven garments and they have

work with Tommy Hilfiger for many years; Jiaxing Jingle is the best one

among three suppliers not only because of their excellent customer

portfolio but also their well-organized company management system

and great customer services.

116 117

The abilities of manufacturing are mostly based on the range and

variety of their products. For example, companies like Jiaxing jingle,

SC, Karle Int. Eam Maliban could produce both men and women’s

apparel, woven, knitting, tops, buttons and jeans..etc. In comparison

companies like Hirdaramani, Industrials Merlet, Vexsal have much

narrower focus, and some of them only provide knitting products,

SUPPLIER RANKINGS

In order to make a better selection for our final placement strategy,

we broke down the suppliers rating into 12 aspects to evaluate the 15

suppliers, 3 from each country selected earlier. And as the total and

average scores shows, Jiaxing Jingle from China, Karle Int. from India,

and Eam Maliban from Sri Lanka are the best suppliers among the 15

and where our final placement could be.

118 119

also willing to build relationship with different kinds of new companies.

Companies that tend to produce for mass market or lower level brand

were rated lower since ECRU is considered as a high-end brand in the

market position.

We evaluated the flexibility of a company by how fast the company

could turn from one category of products to another. Other factors

we took into consideration to evaluate the flexibility is how many

production lines suppliers have and the variety of categories they

produce. Based on the information provided by the suppliers, lead-time

for manufacturing generally ranges from 2 weeks to 120 days. Ourun

has the highest score because they could make sample within 24 hrs

and has the shortest lead-time compare to other suppliers. Vexsal was

rated to be the lowest since they need 120 days for manufacturing.

The way we evaluate the level of management for suppliers based on

how they organized the structures of their companies. Whether they

have sophisticated method to mange the producing chain and how

they organize the production teams. For example, companies like

Jiaxing Jingle, Karle Int. provide image and word description of how

the process of production was organized and function as a big team.

Besides, they are also vertical integrated could provide convenience

for sourcing fabrics.

which made them rated to be much lower than other companies.

We evaluated the capacity of suppliers by view how many pieces they

produce monthly. Industrias Merlet and Hirdaramani have the largest

capacity among 15 suppliers, Industrias Merlet produces around

1600,000 pieces per month and Hirdaramani produces 100,000 pieces

per month. Companies produce 100,000 pieces per month or lower

were rated to be comparatively lower.

We received price quotation from Jiaxing Jingle and Karle Int. and

Eam Maliban, the price offered by these three suppliers are all higher

than our estimated costs. Karle Int. is the company gave the highest

price offer, which almost doubled our estimation. Jiaxing Jingle and

Eam Maliban provided comparatively reasonable costs and Jiaxing

Jingle is lower than Eam Maliban. From the communication process

with the suppliers we evaluated and scored their customer services

based on their attitude of conducting business, whether they reply

emails on time and the information provided by their customer service

officers.

Companies such as Jiaxing Jingle, SC, Karle Mira Exim, Eam Maliban,

Reliance have a long list in their customer portfolio and they have been

worked with many reputable brands like Stella McCartney, Burberry,

Guess, Ralph Lauren..etc Besides, they are very versatile as well, they

have established long term cooperation with reputable brands and

120 121

We evaluated the suppliers’ quality based on the quality level of their

previous customers and how they organize the quality control team

and process. The companies offer other services after production are

evaluated to have higher score. And companies offer sewing and

cutting service only were scored to be lower. Jiaxing Jingle, and Karle

int. have their own mills and they have FOB destination, could cover

the freight, insurance and clear the customs for products importing to

U.S.

We compared companies’ sourcing guidelines to ECRU’s and evaluate

whether they match with ours. The companies have more strict control

of their sourcing guidelines and matches ECRU’s code of conduct

best were rated to be highest. The companies do not provide code of

conduct or with very limited info about it were rated to be lower. We

evaluated the strategic outlook of companies based on the direction

they are tending to lead their companies to, whether the companies

are looking for growth in the future and how much their growth space

is.

COSTING

Preliminary Costing

Initial Costs VS Preliminary Costs

122 123

countries. Overall, the cost ranged between $4.19 and $7.25 in China,

$4.16 and 7.25 in India, $4.33 and $7.74 in Sri Lanka, $4.41 and 8.04

in the Philippines and $3.78 and $7.04 in El Salvador. In all countries,

every look is expected to exceed an average margin of 94.98% when

looking at initial cost comparisons.

Style Name Style # Retail Price China Cost Margin% India Cost Margin% Sri Lanka Cost

Margin% Philippines Cost

Margin% El Salvador Cost

Margin%

Look1  (Madsion) Latte WS#3100 $ 120.00  $                        4.19   96.51%  $                        4.16   96.53%  $                                    4.33   96.39%  $                                            4.41   96.33%  $                                      3.78   96.85%

Look2  (Courtney) Barley WS#3202 $ 90.00  $                        4.27   95.26%  $                        4.23   95.30%  $                                    4.43   95.08%  $                                            4.52   94.98%  $                                      3.86   95.71%

Look3(  Picha) Ivory WS#3400 $ 140.00  $                        4.92   96.49%  $                        4.86   96.53%  $                                    5.20   96.29%  $                                            5.35   96.18%  $                                      4.59   96.72%

Look4  (Jordan) Bisque WS#3500 $ 120.00  $                        4.35   96.38%  $                        4.30   96.42%  $                                    4.52   96.23%  $                                            4.61   96.16%  $                                      3.94   96.72%

Look5  (Teng) Desert Sand WS#3600 $ 180.00  $                        7.25   95.97%  $                        7.11   96.05%  $                                    7.74   95.70%  $                                            8.04   95.53%  $                                      7.04   96.09%

Average Price $ 130.00 Average Cost $ 5.04  $                        5.00    $                        4.93    $                                    5.24    $                                            5.39    $                                      4.64  

Average Margin 96.12% 96.16% 96.21% 95.97% 95.86% 96.43%

ECRU Initial Cost Comparison by Countries

PRELIMINARY COSTING

In looking at initial costing figures for each country, El Salvador

offered the cheapest average cost with an average margin of 96.43%.

India and China were close behind with average costs of $4.93 and

$5.00 respectively. With an average cost of $5.39 and an average

margin of 95.86, the Philippines is by far the most costly country to

manufacture in and has the lowest average margin between the

Style Name Style # Retail Price China Cost Margin% India Cost Margin% Sri Lanka Cost

Margin% Philippines Cost

Margin% El Salvador Cost

Margin%

Look1  (Madsion) Latte WS#3100 $ 120.00  $                        4.19   96.51%  $                        4.16   96.53%  $                                    4.33   96.39%  $                                            4.41   96.33%  $                                      3.78   96.85%

Look2  (Courtney) Barley WS#3202 $ 90.00  $                        4.27   95.26%  $                        4.23   95.30%  $                                    4.43   95.08%  $                                            4.52   94.98%  $                                      3.86   95.71%

Look3(  Picha) Ivory WS#3400 $ 140.00  $                        4.92   96.49%  $                        4.86   96.53%  $                                    5.20   96.29%  $                                            5.35   96.18%  $                                      4.59   96.72%

Look4  (Jordan) Bisque WS#3500 $ 120.00  $                        4.35   96.38%  $                        4.30   96.42%  $                                    4.52   96.23%  $                                            4.61   96.16%  $                                      3.94   96.72%

Look5  (Teng) Desert Sand WS#3600 $ 180.00  $                        7.25   95.97%  $                        7.11   96.05%  $                                    7.74   95.70%  $                                            8.04   95.53%  $                                      7.04   96.09%

Average Price $ 130.00 Average Cost $ 5.04  $                        5.00    $                        4.93    $                                    5.24    $                                            5.39    $                                      4.64  

Average Margin 96.12% 96.16% 96.21% 95.97% 95.86% 96.43%

ECRU Initial Cost Comparison by Countries

124 125

cost which averages $4.64 per unit with an average margin of 96.43%.

The average margin when looking at the preliminary costs of ECRU’s

top countries is 95.88%. In looking at the preliminary costs, we believe

that ECRU has great opportunity for profiting due to the high margin

predictions. The high margins also allow ECRU to have some wiggle

room if it is necessary when conducting negotiations to settle on final

costs.

Style Name Style # Retail Price China Margin% China Margin% Sri Lanka Margin% Sri Lanka Margin%

El Salvador Margin% El

Salvador Margin%

Latte WS-3100 120.00$ 4.19$ 96.51% 4.81$ 95.99% 4.33$ 96.39% 5.20$ 95.67% 3.78$ 96.85% 3.78$ 96.85%Barley WS-3202 90.00$ 4.27$ 95.26% 4.69$ 94.79% 4.43$ 95.08% 5.53$ 93.86% 3.86$ 95.71% 3.86$ 95.71%Ivory WS-3400 140.00$ 4.92$ 96.49% 5.75$ 95.89% 5.20$ 96.29% 6.24$ 95.54% 4.59$ 96.72% 4.59$ 96.72%Bisque WS-3500 120.00$ 4.35$ 96.38% 5.00$ 95.83% 4.52$ 96.23% 5.65$ 95.29% 3.94$ 96.72% 3.94$ 96.72%Desert Sand WS-3600 180.00$ 7.25$ 95.97% 8.56$ 95.24% 7.74$ 95.70% 9.68$ 94.62% 7.04$ 96.09% 7.04$ 96.09%

130.00$ 4.96$ 5.00$ 5.24$ 4.64$ 5.62$ 5.76$ 6.46$ 4.64$

95.88% 96.16% 95.57% 95.97% 95.03% 96.43% 96.43%

Average PriceAverage Initial CostAverage Prelim Cost

Average Margin

ECRU Initial Cost V.S Prelim Cost

INITIAL PRELIM INITIAL PRELIM INITIAL PRELIM

INITIAL COSTS VS. PRELIMINARY COSTS

After sending tech packs to potential suppliers, we were able to

compare ECRU’s initial cost sheets with the manufactures’ preliminary

costs. China’s average cost grew by 15.2%, bringing its average

cost up to $5.76 and its average margin down to 95.57%. Sri Lanka’s

average cost increased by 23.28% decreasing its average margin

down to 95.03% and raising the average unit cost to $6.46. El Salvador’s

manufacturers did have yet to respond with their quote for ECRU’s five

looks, and so the preliminary cost is merely a reflection of the initial

Style Name Style # Retail Price China Margin% China Margin% Sri Lanka Margin% Sri Lanka Margin%

El Salvador Margin% El

Salvador Margin%

Latte WS-3100 120.00$ 4.19$ 96.51% 4.81$ 95.99% 4.33$ 96.39% 5.20$ 95.67% 3.78$ 96.85% 3.78$ 96.85%Barley WS-3202 90.00$ 4.27$ 95.26% 4.69$ 94.79% 4.43$ 95.08% 5.53$ 93.86% 3.86$ 95.71% 3.86$ 95.71%Ivory WS-3400 140.00$ 4.92$ 96.49% 5.75$ 95.89% 5.20$ 96.29% 6.24$ 95.54% 4.59$ 96.72% 4.59$ 96.72%Bisque WS-3500 120.00$ 4.35$ 96.38% 5.00$ 95.83% 4.52$ 96.23% 5.65$ 95.29% 3.94$ 96.72% 3.94$ 96.72%Desert Sand WS-3600 180.00$ 7.25$ 95.97% 8.56$ 95.24% 7.74$ 95.70% 9.68$ 94.62% 7.04$ 96.09% 7.04$ 96.09%

130.00$ 4.96$ 5.00$ 5.24$ 4.64$ 5.62$ 5.76$ 6.46$ 4.64$

95.88% 96.16% 95.57% 95.97% 95.03% 96.43% 96.43%

Average PriceAverage Initial CostAverage Prelim Cost

Average Margin

ECRU Initial Cost V.S Prelim Cost

INITIAL PRELIM INITIAL PRELIM INITIAL PRELIM

126 127

STRATEGY DEVELOPMENT

When looking at Ecru Basic’s sales plan one can see that it is

broken down by garment and then by month. Our top selling woven

tops are the Ivory and the Desert Sand. Ecru feels that these two

garments are going to be the most versatile as they do have a collar

they can be worn to work, they can also be dressed down, and even

layered to be worn in the colder months. We see these pieces to be at

or over 100,000 units over the course of the first year. Our other pieces,

while they are not the top sellers are still going to make up a large

portion of sales for the first year and range from 76,000 to 90,000 total

units for each look.

Of course, our garments are going to fluctuate with the seasons

and the holidays, making selling quantities higher between the months

of May, June and July and then again during December. However, this

is our basics line and we anticipate a steady sales flow all year round.

Ecru has very high hopes for this Basics line and we feel that is it just

what our loyal customers are asking for, which is why we are projecting

large volumes of sale.

128 129

CHINA

In the country-ranking chart, China was ranked second among 5

countries and China is known as world’s biggest manufacturer. For

a new company like Ecru choosing a sophisticated market to source

manufacturing is definitely a wise choice.

Overall, China has better socio-eco-political climate in general

compare to other countries, as well as business climate. China has

very flexible business etiquette and it is easy to conduct business.

China is the second biggest country in economic standing, after U.S.

In recent years it has tended to have a slower growing rate but it is still

in a positive shape.

However, the wage of employer is growing up as well which means

the cost of manufacturing in China will be drive up as well. From the

research, China has a tendency to switch from manufacturing bulk

products in low quality and low cost to high quality and the government

has invested large amounts of money to purchase upgraded

technologies and new facilities. This could benefits companies like us

aiming to source high quality products in the long run.

China is ranked No.1 for exporting especially apparel and textile,

which means China, is the one of the most experienced traders. Many

suppliers offer customer service in up to 15 languages and could cover

freight, insurance, and clear the customs for buyers. Since the reform

in 1979, the Chinese government started to reinforce laws and policies

to support international trading. The business etiquette is not hard to

follow as well, and since most Chinese people are atheist religion and

suspicion issues would not need to be taken into consideration like

many other countries.

China’s apparel and textile market size is ranked as NO.1 as

well. There are total of over 15,000 apparel manufacturers in China.

Because of this fierce competition Chinese manufacturers are more

likely to work hard on making deal and the high pressure from the

market could avoid them to overprice the manufacturing. China also

has the largest amount of workforce in the world. The majority of the

population in China is still at the working age, there are some concerns

for aging population in the future because of the one-child-policy,

however it will not influence the industry within five years.

China has and abundance of resources of raw materials. As we all

know, China produces the largest amount of silk every year and

they have wool, and cotton as well. The Chinese government has

signed 12 Free Trade Agreements including with Australia (where has

the best quality wools), Peru (well-known pima cotton productions),

and Thailand (ASSEAN) (world’s best silk). These could benefits buyers

to source high quality raw materials in a lower cost since the tariff is

eliminated. However, the inflation rate has a trend to going up, which

130 131

could lead the increase of cost for raw materials in the future.

Another major concern for conducting business in China

is government’s weak control over the labor laws and policies

reinforcement. Manufacturers are generally lacking awareness of

the importance of sourcing guidelines. In recent years, the Chinese

government started to focus on improving the market conditions,

however, Rome was not build in one day, Sourcing guidelines need to be

ensured to match with our company’s while selecting manufacturers.

After we went through the elimination process we selected three most

qualified suppliers for our companies. We analyzed the three suppliers

in depth by focusing on their quality, previous customer lists, customer

service, sourcing guidelines and service offered. Since our company

believes in quality over quantity, the capacity of manufacturers is not

our biggest concern and the selected manufacturers are all capable

of manufacturing our products within an acceptable time period.

Overall, the biggest strength for Ourun is their short lead-time. They

can manufacture the sample within 24 hours and finish the entire pack

of merchandise with 20 days. However, compare to other two, it lack

of brands with high quality products in their customer list. Most of their

previous customers were fast fashion brands such as forever 21, H&M

and ZARA, so that their standard of quality might not meet with ours.

Further more, the information they provided on sourcing guideline is

very vague and does not contain much information.

SC and Jiaxing Jingle has very similar strengths, both of them have

reputable brands in their customers lists, such as Ralph Laruen, Burberry,

Guess, Tommy Hilfiger etc. Jiaxing Jingle is much more flexible even they

have less employer but their capacity is much bigger than SC which

means their manufacturing process might be more well organized

and efficient. Jiaxing Jingle has more production lines as well so that

they could switch from one to another easier. Both SC and Jiaxing

Jingle are vertical integrated, they have own mills could provide dying

services, and weave the fabrics the way customers wanted. This could

highly reduce the lead-time and cost on sourcing fabrics and much

more convenient to the buyers.

In addition, Jiaxing Jingle is a full package manufacturer and could

provide FOB destination service, and will clear the customs for buyers.

They also have excellent customer services. All emails were replied

in one day and their customer officer called us to ask for detail of

the order. They provide step-by-step guides for customers to know

their manufacturers better large amount production pictures were

shown on their factory introduction brochure. SC is not as good as

Jiaxing Jingle in the aspects list above, however, SC has much shorter

lead time than Jiaxing Jingle (Jiaxing Jingle need 70 days and SC only

needs 30 days), and SC’s sourcing guidelines is more detailed, and

they took environment protection and intellectual property protection

into consideration for their company.

132 133

SRI LANKA

Sri Lanka’s textile and apparel industry generates the most

revenues for the country and for its government. The Sri Lankan

manufacturers are well renowned all over the world for their top

customer service, high quality garments and strong commitment to the

green manufacturing processes. At the end of 2013 it was announced

that Sri Lanka was on its way to becoming the top garment exporter in

the world in the next five years.

The manufacturing facilities in Sri Lanka have been evaluated

and ranked based on twelve different categories; abilities, capacity,

costs, customer service, customers, flexibility, lead time, management,

quality, service offered, strategic outlook and sourcing guidelines. It

was very important for Ecru to deeply look into each one of these

categories for potential manufacturing opportunities in Sri Lanka.

Each of these twelve categories had very strong ratings and Ecrus

top concerning categories such as quality, customer service, costs,

and current customers had very strong numbers and near perfect

scores making Eam Maliban the winner out of the top five proposed

Sri Lankan manufacturers.

Risks:

- Long distance from the U.S.

- Potential high lead times and freight costs

- Country is in a lot of debt

- Lower capacities than other larger countries are capable of

- Typhoons and Monsoons 9 months out of the year

Benefits:

- Over 100 years of apparel manufacturing experience as a country

- Top green manufacturer ranking country in the world

- Won LEED Platinum Rated Manufacturing award

- Well known, high-end, reputable customer base

- Apparel is the country’s main export and brings in the highest revenues

- Updated technology

- In depth code of ethics and conduct for factory workers

- Takes pride in the quality and craftsmanship of their work

After much deliberation and ranking it has been determined

that Eam Maliban is the top apparel supplier in Sri Lanka with many

benefits and attributes outweighing its competitors. These benefits

include there high focus on quality craftsmanship, their corporate

social responsibility and their code of ethics describing and showing the

fair and upstanding treatment of their workers. Eam Maliban focuses

much of its efforts on the well being of its staff as well as practicing

134 135

EL SALVADOR

Manufacturers were selected based on many factors, including

their abilities, flexibility, lead-time, capacity, customer service, value

added services, management, quality, customers, their values and

how well they align to ECRU’s sourcing guidelines, and their outlook

towards the future.

In evaluating manufacturers it was important to look at the range

of apparel that can be developed as well as the ability to product the

products we intend to make at the quality we find acceptable. As

a relationship develops, ECRU will benefit most from a manufacturer

that is flexible in its abilities and diverse so that ECRU can grow into new

product categories and lines. Capacities, lead-time and distance were

weighted against each other. The weighing of risks and benefits was

utilized to compare manufacturers. Looking at how long a company

has been in business and the clients that they work with will help to gain

insight into how experienced and knowledgeable a company is, how

secure their business is financially, the level of quality a manufacture

provides and the level of customer service offered. The location also

needs to be considered as different times of year bring different

weather patterns, some of which can cause devastating natural

disasters that could interrupt production if a factory is destroyed or if

evacuations are ordered.

green manufacturing techniques all throughout the facility. It is no

wonder that this facility has been ranked to high and is sought after

by many name brands clothiers.

Eam Maliban Textiles is known for their commitment to creating

world-class products. Customers include Gap, Lands End, Joseph A.

Banks, Banana Republic, Burberry, Brooks Brothers and Ralph Lauren.

Eam Maliban is also a major part of the Garments Without Guilt

Organization, which contains a group of manufacturers all adhering

to a strict code of ethics and conduct, who develop their products

economically and environmentally friendly. The customer and

company ethics align seamlessly with our luxury fashion brand, Ecru

giving us piece of mind knowing that Eam Maliban will provide us with

the quality and ethical standing that we are ultimately looking for.

Sri Lanka is a wonderful country to do business with; the people are

very friendly and welcoming and the manufacturing facilities are

very up to date and are able to produce a large variety of garments

and styles. There are many mills close by the Eam Maliban facility, so

outsourcing fabric will not be an issue. Even though Sri Lanka is quite

far from New York labor and freight prices are very competitive and

reasonable and Ecru feels very comfortable working with Sri Lanka on

their new Basics Collection

136 137

For El Salvador, Picacho ranked highest among the potential

manufacturers. Although Picacho has a lower capacity, producing

50,000 woven apparel units per week, its close proximity to the US

and 30 day lead-time from when fabrics are received at the factory

make up for the lower production abilities: as product will be received

more regularly and quicker than more distant manufacturers. Picacho

ranked highly in the category of meeting our sourcing guidelines.

The company puts such a great emphasis on the heath and safety

of its employees, providing them with a cafeteria that subsidizes its

prices, recreational areas such as volleyball courts and soccer fields

to encourage teamwork and a healthy lifestyle. Picacho also offers

employees and their family free, on-site medical care, free daycare

and free schooling for their children. In working with customers such

as Liz Claiborne, LL Bean, Dillard’s, DKNY and Izod, we can be assured

that Picacho produces quality garments that also meet sourcing

guidelines.

In evaluating future requirements, the company’s history, ability

to product an array of products, the machines utilized and the value

they place on their employees were taken into consideration. Picacho

which was found in 1992 has been around for over two decades, which

has allowed them to develop specializations in the woven apparel

industry. Picacho merged with the American company, BWA, in 2006

which benefited the company’s growth by strengthening and creating

connections with mills in other parts of the world and by creating a

-Risks

• El Salvador’s climate is a risk as it is prone to earthquakes, volcanic

activity, hurricanes, flooding and mud slides.

• Slow economic growth

• Corruption and gang violence, although no more risky than other countries

• Low capacity- 50,000 woven apparel units/week

• Uncertain political environment with a new left? Wing president

-Benefits

• Over 20 years’ experience

• Free trade with CAFTA-DR if materials are sourced for an included country.

• Short lead time- 30 days

• Close proximity to the US- quick transportation of goods

• Same time zone, conversations can take place in real time

• The US dollar is the official currency- no currency exchange fluctuations

• Democratic

• No terrorist threats

• Apparel is the county’s main export

• Well known customer base

• Takes pride in its employees

• Updated technology

• Versatile in product capabilities

138 139

stronger link between El Salvador and the US. The company is also

experienced in utilizing CAFTA-DT to eliminate tariffs. Picacho has also

expanded into the knitwear sector, allowing them to create a broader

range of apparel styles and now manufactures clothing for men,

women and children. Should ECRU decide to start a menswear line or

an intimate line in the future, Picacho would be a great manufacturer

to work with as it is well known in both areas and allows ECRU room to

diversify its products all in one location. Picacho also puts great value

on their employees and in doing so; they are investing in their trained

workforce, which allows for fewer mistakes and greater productivity.

THE FUTURE OF ECRU

The future of Ecru is very bright, with many possibilities for growth

and expansion. The brand plans to extend into accessory design and

production in the following year, as well as leather goods. Our goal

is to create a lifestyle for the customer and a brand where she feels

comfortable wearing a look from head to toe, as well as mixing and

matching with other pieces from her wardrobe.

We are currently in the works with creating a specialty line for

Bergdorf Goodman, giving our company a chance to grown and

expand even further. Ecru has had much press and industry exposure

in magazine and articles that has contributed largely to the brands

success and it is our goal to continue as much as possible down that path.

With 2014 projected sales at over $59 Million, we hope to see

over $85 Million in the year 2015. Our company has great potential for

high amounts of growth. With 40% of sales online, we plan to keep all

of our sales channels cohesive and user friendly to bring in as many

customers and sales as possible. The most important thing for Ecru now

and moving into the future is to be true to our brand, while making

our customers happy and satisfying our company’s strong ethical

standards.

140 141

For our final sourcing strategy, we decided to choose China to

be our number one supplier. In our country-ranking chart, China was

rated to be second and Jiaxing Jingle was rated to be the best among

15 suppliers.

Overall, China’s Scio-eco-political climates are in comparatively

stable position and China also has a very positive business climate

especially in Apparel and Textile industry. The suppliers are well trained

for conducting international business. Manufacturing our products in

China could provide our company, Ecru, several benefits.

First of all, since 1995 China was ranked Number one in exporting

and China also has world’s largest apparel and textile industry. Ecru

is a brand new company and lacks experience conducting business

in foreign countries, by placing products in China Ecru could reduce

the risk of countering some unexpected accidents. Besides, China’s

business etiquette is very easy to follow which could avoid the failure

caused by cultural gap.

SOURCING STRATEGY

#1

China

#2

Sri Lanka

#3

El Salvador

Placement Strategy

CHINA SOURCING STRATEGY

142 143

Second, China has abundant resources of raw materials and many

suppliers have their own mills could customize the fabric for buyers,

like Jiaxing Jingle where we decided to place our Ivory and Desert

Sand. We want to provide comfort for our customers and most of our

products are made in natural fibers, place the products in China could

avoid extra concerns about sourcing fabrics.

Besides, the price quotation offered by Jiaxing Jingle is acceptable

and we could maintain average margin around 95% and they have also

been worked with companies like Burberry, Guess, and BCBG, which

means the quality of products could be guaranteed as well. We place

our style WS#3400 (Ivory), and WS#3600 (Desert Sand) in China, Jiaxing

Jingle fashion. Since they provided the lowest price quotation, and

Ivory is planned to be our best seller with largest needed quantity our

cost could maximize the margin. WS#3600 has very similar construction

as WS#3400 could make the production easier if we place these two

styles in same supplier and could shorten the lead-time as well since

Jiaxing Jingle’s biggest weakness is their long lead-time.

One of the major risks for choosing China is the tendency of

increasing inflation rate and Chinese government has the control

over the currency. Even overall China’s Scio-eco-political climate

is comparatively positive compare to other countries, there are still

some future risks need to be aware. The increasing inflation rate could

increase the cost of raw materials and the increase the increasing

labor cost could drive up the overall cost to be high which could

directly lead to lower our margin.

Second, even Chinese government is supporting the apparel industry,

however lack of transparency and intellectual protection could be

influence the industry in a very negative way. We need to be more

cautious for conducting business with suppliers and make sure they

will not make counterfeits for our products, which could bring bad

reputation for our company and influence our sales performance.

144 145

however they are still pause for some concern. Sri Lanka is a long

distance for the United States and shipments take about 3 weeks to

reach our destination port in New York from Colombo. These lengthy

shipping times may result in high freight costs and loss of margin from

the lengthy lead-time. Sri Lanka’s facilities also have lower capacities

than other much larger and more established countries like China.

The benefits of the country and of its manufacturing processes and

facilities are certainly very striking and cause the ranking for Sri Lanka

to be quite high. Overall the country has had over 100 year of apparel

manufacturing and export experience, which has paved the way for

them to become such strong members of the current manufacturing

market. The country creates garments for hundreds of well know, top

brand name and high-end clothiers around the world, giving Sri Lanka

a reputation for quality craftsmanship.

Sri Lanka as a whole takes great pride in the way that their

workers are treated and make their code of conducts very clear

to their employees as well as any new clients. The treatment of

employees is all very ethical and safe, wages are fair, facilities are

clean and up to date and code, there are no children employed and

the health, safety and education of Sri Lanka factory workers families

is of the utmost concern as well. Sri Lanka is also the leader in green

and environmental manufacturing practices in the world. They have

paved the way for other facilities to follow in their footsteps and have

When looking further in depth at all that Sri Lanka has to offer it is

clear that they have the potential to be a top manufacturing country

for Ecru basics. Apparel manufacturing and export brings in the top

grossing revenues for Sri Lanka as a whole. It has also recently been

announced that Sri Lanka is on its way to becoming the number one

garment exporter and manufacturer in the world within the next five

years. Ecru sees a big opportunity with doing business with Sri Lanka

and is excited about the potential to work with top manufacturers in

the country.

We have ranked Sri Lanka in second place, just behind China

and just in front of El Salvador. While the country has so many positives

to offer our company they are still not as developed as China when

it comes to garment manufacturing, which results in us placing Sri

Lanka in second place. There are many positive attributes as well as

some limited risks that still may pose a concern when doing business.

However, the country has three very highly ranked manufacturing

facilities that Ecru would be happy to negotiate and work with.

The benefits of doing business in Sri Lanka certainly outweigh the risks,

SRI LANKA SOURCING STRATEGY

146 147

won numerous awards for the never-ending efforts to help save the

planet and the earth.

Although ranked number two, Sri Lanka is certainly a country that

Ecru would be happy to do business with. Their values and beliefs on

how business should be done are synonymous with that of Ecrus. Ecru

values ethical manufacturing practices and treatment of employees,

keeping the environment safe, and high quality garments above

all else, and that is just what Sri Lanka spends their time and energy

towards as well.

In evaluating El Salvador, it became apparent that El Salvador

has a lot to offer ECRU as a country to manufacture in. El Salvador has

one of the most developed apparel industry in Latin America and is

known for its synthetic branch and knitting capabilities, in addition,

apparel is the country’s top export. El Salvador is also in close proximity

to the US, shortening transportation time and also allowing for real

time communication and updates. One of the greatest benefits from

working with El Salvador is being able to enjoy duty free importing

into the US as long as materials are sourced from the surrounding

countries that are a part of CAFTA-DR. El Salvador has also adopted

the US dollar as its own currency eliminating the need to worry about

currency exchange.

We ranked El Salvador in third place, behind China and Sri Lanka.

Like Sri Lanka, El Salvador is a small country and not as developed as

China when it comes to manufacturing; however, El Salvador does offer

many benefits and high quality manufacturing facilities. Unfortunately

many of the manufacturers specialize in knit wear rather than woven

apparel, but a select few do exist and are highly reputable.

EL SALVADOR SOURCING STRATEGY

148 149

Certain risks and downsides do come with manufacturing in El

Salvador. The climate is risky as the country has a long rainy season

making it vulnerable to hurricanes, flash floods, and mudslides. Due

to its location earthquakes and volcanic activity also occur. Natural

disasters have proven devastating in the past and have caused large

scale evacuations and damage. Although El Salvador’s economy

remains in the positive, it has been growing at a decreased rate.

There are issues with corruption, laws not being strictly enforced, gang

violence and drug trafficking, but these things occur in the other

countries we sourced as well, although some countries are not as open

about it. There is also some politically uncertainty surrounding the new

president that will take office next month as he is very left wing and

has been affiliated with Cuban spies.

In choosing El Salvador’s manufacturer, Picacho has over 20

years’ experience with the woven apparel industry and a short lead

time of only 30 days. In addition, El Salvador’s close proximity to the

US allows for quick transportation of goods. Picacho has a strong

customer base, versatile product capabilities and state of the art

technology. The company also and puts great emphasis on quality

as well as on its employees well-being. Picacho also has introduced

knitting capabilities which allows for new product categories for ECRU

to grow into in the future.

150 151

Ecru has decided to place their five woven women’s tops

in manufacturing facilities in China, Sri Lanka and El Salvador. The

garments are separated into each of these countries based on style,

technicalities and quantities. We have also looked at the strengths

and weaknesses from each country to better create a final placement

plan for our products.

PLACEMENT STRATEGY

Two looks will be placed in China at the start of the manufacturing

process. These looks are both collared button up shirts. Ecru feels that

china is the best country to manufacture these garments as the country

is well established in the industry and is highly capable to creating a

well fitting, quality garment. We will be placing the full order of 94,000

units of Desert Sand and half of the Ivory order at 55,000 units. We will

#WS-3400 Ivory #WS-3600 Desert Sand #WS-3100 Latte #WS-3500 Bisque #WS-3202 Barley #WS-3400 IvoryTotal Units 450,000 55,000 94,000 76,000 85,000 90,000 50,000

Retail Price per unit 140.00$ 180.00$ 120.00$ 120.00$ 90.00$ 140.00$ Cost per Unit 4.52$ 6.95$ 3.96$ 4.00$ 3.55$ 4.22$

Margin 135.48$ 173.05$ 116.04$ 116.00$ 86.45$ 135.78$ % 96.77% 96.14% 96.70% 96.67% 96.06% 96.99%

Total Retail 59,040,000$ 7,700,000.00$ 16,920,000.00$ 9,120,000.00$ 10,200,000.00$ 8,100,000.00$ 7,000,000.00$ Total Purchase 2,073,360$ 248,600.00$ 653,300.00$ 300,960.00$ 340,000.00$ 319,500.00$ 211,000.00$ total Margins 56,966,640$ 7,451,400$ 16,266,700$ 8,819,040$ 9,860,000$ 7,780,500$ 6,789,000$

% 96.49% 96.77% 96.14% 96.70% 96.67% 96.06% 96.99%Avg Retail 131.20$

Avg Purchase 4.61$ Avg Margins $ 126.59

Avg Margins % 96.49%

Avg Cost/Unit 4.53$

El SalvadorSri LankaChina

ECRU FINAL PLACEMENT & MARGINS

#WS-3400 Ivory #WS-3600 Desert Sand #WS-3100 Latte #WS-3500 Bisque #WS-3202 Barley #WS-3400 IvoryTotal Units 450,000 55,000 94,000 76,000 85,000 90,000 50,000

Retail Price per unit 140.00$ 180.00$ 120.00$ 120.00$ 90.00$ 140.00$ Cost per Unit 4.52$ 6.95$ 3.96$ 4.00$ 3.55$ 4.22$

Margin 135.48$ 173.05$ 116.04$ 116.00$ 86.45$ 135.78$ % 96.77% 96.14% 96.70% 96.67% 96.06% 96.99%

Total Retail 59,040,000$ 7,700,000.00$ 16,920,000.00$ 9,120,000.00$ 10,200,000.00$ 8,100,000.00$ 7,000,000.00$ Total Purchase 2,073,360$ 248,600.00$ 653,300.00$ 300,960.00$ 340,000.00$ 319,500.00$ 211,000.00$ total Margins 56,966,640$ 7,451,400$ 16,266,700$ 8,819,040$ 9,860,000$ 7,780,500$ 6,789,000$

% 96.49% 96.77% 96.14% 96.70% 96.67% 96.06% 96.99%Avg Retail 131.20$

Avg Purchase 4.61$ Avg Margins $ 126.59

Avg Margins % 96.49%

Avg Cost/Unit 4.53$

El SalvadorSri LankaChina

ECRU FINAL PLACEMENT & MARGINS

152 153

be splitting up the Ivory piece because it is anticipated to be one of

our top sellers and we do not want to risk any malfunctions by placing

all of the order at one facility.

Two pieces will also be manufactured in Sri Lanka. Sri Lanka’s

manufacturing facilities have very high-end clientele and we feel that

it is the perfect place for Ecru to make their more fashion forward and

technologically made tops; Latte and Bisque. 76,000 units of the Latte

will be manufactured and 85,000 units of Bisque will be manufactured.

These pieces are going to be much more suited for a client who is

looking for a piece that is a little more fashion forward and out of the

box, which is why Ecru does not see the highest sales numbers for these

looks.

Finally in El Salvador we will be placing the second half of the

order for Ivory as well as our take on the “basic tee”, the Barley. 90,000

units of Barley will be manufactured as well as 50,000 units for Ivory.

These two pieces are anticipated to be our top sellers due to their

silhouette as well as their functionality in a client’s wardrobe. We will be

placing these looks in El Salvador because of the ability for incredibly

short lead-times of under two weeks. This may be very helpful for us as

orders grow and Ecru needs new pieces within a short amount of time.

Our final average cost per unit comes out to be $4.53. The

average retail price between our five luxury women’s tops is $131.20.

The average purchase price for each unit is $4.61. Ecru is very happy

to have such high margins at over 96%, which equates to $126.59.

COMPARISON OF FINAL COSTING

Preliminary Costing vs.Final Negotiatiated Prices

Preliminary Margins vs.Archieved Margins

154 155

All the prices quoted from suppliers are all higher than our estimation

and most of them squeezed the margins to be approximately 1% lower

than our planned cost. The final negotiated prices are actually lower

than we expected and drive up our margins about 0.5% higher for all

five styles.

Latte WS-3100

Latte is one of our basic items with high neck and were planned to

be comparatively sale in a lower volume since it might not be widely

accepted by majority. In both prelim cost and final cost, Latte has the

highest margin among 5 styles. The Latte will be manufactured in Sri

Lanka and the quoted price is $5.20 per unit, with 95.67% margin, and

the final negotiated price is $3.96 with 96.70% margin.

Barley WS-3202

Barley is planned to be one of our best sellers, because of its simple

silhouette and could be easily accepted by majority. It has short sleeves

and could be easily wear year round. Since Barley was planned to be

sale in large amount we planned our margin per unit to be lower so

that we could achieve the higher margin by selling larger amount.

Besides, in order to turn out the products faster we will manufacture

the Barley in El Salvador for the shortest lead-time. The prelim price

were planned to be $3.86 with 95.71% and the final negotiated price

is $3.55 with 96.06% margin.

Ivory WS-3400

Style Name Style # Retail Price

China Cost Margin% China

Cost Margin% China Cost Margin% Sri Lanka

Cost Margin% Sri Lanka Cost Margin% Sri Lanka

Cost Margin% El Salvador Cost Margin% El Salvador

Cost Margin% El Salvador Cost

Margin%

Latte WS-3100 120.00$ 4.19$ 96.51% 4.81$ 95.99% 3.83$ 96.81% 4.33$ 96.39% 5.20$ 95.67% 3.96$ 96.70% 3.78$ 96.85% 3.78$ 96.85% 3.45$ 97.13%Barley WS-3202 90.00$ 4.27$ 95.26% 4.69$ 94.79% 3.93$ 95.63% 4.43$ 95.08% 5.53$ 93.86% 4.08$ 95.47% 3.86$ 95.71% 3.86$ 95.71% 3.55$ 96.06%Ivory WS-3400 140.00$ 4.92$ 96.49% 5.75$ 95.89% 4.52$ 96.77% 5.20$ 96.29% 6.24$ 95.54% 4.78$ 96.59% 4.59$ 96.72% 4.59$ 96.72% 4.22$ 96.99%Bisque WS-3500 120.00$ 4.35$ 96.38% 5.00$ 95.83% 3.85$ 96.79% 4.52$ 96.23% 5.65$ 95.29% 4.00$ 96.67% 3.94$ 96.72% 3.94$ 96.72% 3.49$ 97.09%Desert Sand WS-3600 180.00$ 7.25$ 95.97% 8.56$ 95.24% 6.95$ 96.14% 7.74$ 95.70% 9.68$ 94.62% 7.42$ 95.88% 7.04$ 96.09% 7.04$ 96.09% 6.75$ 96.25%

130.00$ 4.96$ 5.00$ 5.24$ 4.64$ 5.62$ 5.76$ 6.46$ 4.64$ 4.59$ 4.62$ 4.85$ 4.29$                            

96.18% 96.16% 95.57% 96.45% 95.97% 95.03% 96.27% 96.43% 96.43% 96.70%

Average PriceAverage Initial CostAverage Prelim Cost

Average Margin

FINALFINAL

Average Final Cost

ECRU Initial Cost vs Prelim Cost vs Final CostINITIAL PRELIM INITIAL PRELIM INITIAL PRELIM FINAL

INITIAL COST vs PRELIMINARY COST vs FINAL COST

Style Name Style # Retail Price

China Cost Margin% China

Cost Margin% China Cost Margin% Sri Lanka

Cost Margin% Sri Lanka Cost Margin% Sri Lanka

Cost Margin% El Salvador Cost Margin% El Salvador

Cost Margin% El Salvador Cost

Margin%

Latte WS-3100 120.00$ 4.19$ 96.51% 4.81$ 95.99% 3.83$ 96.81% 4.33$ 96.39% 5.20$ 95.67% 3.96$ 96.70% 3.78$ 96.85% 3.78$ 96.85% 3.45$ 97.13%Barley WS-3202 90.00$ 4.27$ 95.26% 4.69$ 94.79% 3.93$ 95.63% 4.43$ 95.08% 5.53$ 93.86% 4.08$ 95.47% 3.86$ 95.71% 3.86$ 95.71% 3.55$ 96.06%Ivory WS-3400 140.00$ 4.92$ 96.49% 5.75$ 95.89% 4.52$ 96.77% 5.20$ 96.29% 6.24$ 95.54% 4.78$ 96.59% 4.59$ 96.72% 4.59$ 96.72% 4.22$ 96.99%Bisque WS-3500 120.00$ 4.35$ 96.38% 5.00$ 95.83% 3.85$ 96.79% 4.52$ 96.23% 5.65$ 95.29% 4.00$ 96.67% 3.94$ 96.72% 3.94$ 96.72% 3.49$ 97.09%Desert Sand WS-3600 180.00$ 7.25$ 95.97% 8.56$ 95.24% 6.95$ 96.14% 7.74$ 95.70% 9.68$ 94.62% 7.42$ 95.88% 7.04$ 96.09% 7.04$ 96.09% 6.75$ 96.25%

130.00$ 4.96$ 5.00$ 5.24$ 4.64$ 5.62$ 5.76$ 6.46$ 4.64$ 4.59$ 4.62$ 4.85$ 4.29$                            

96.18% 96.16% 95.57% 96.45% 95.97% 95.03% 96.27% 96.43% 96.43% 96.70%

Average PriceAverage Initial CostAverage Prelim Cost

Average Margin

FINALFINAL

Average Final Cost

ECRU Initial Cost vs Prelim Cost vs Final CostINITIAL PRELIM INITIAL PRELIM INITIAL PRELIM FINAL

156 157

Ivory is considered as another item would sale year round, and it has

the largest planned quantity, so we split the amount for manufacturing

into two countries. The unit price for Ivory in China was quoted to be

$5.75 with 95.89% margin, and negotiated down to $4.52 with 96.77%

margin.

Bisque WS-3500

Bisque is similar to latte, and was planned to be a more fashion items

with lower quantity and will be manufactured in Sri Lanka. The quoted

price for Bisque is $5.65 with 95.29% margin, and the final negotiated

price was lower to $4.00 with 96.67%

Desert Sand WS-3600

Desert Sand is a button up shirt and has similar construction techniques

to Ivory and it does not need to be turn out as soon as the best sellers

so that we decided to place Desert Sand in China for manufacturing.

The quoted price from China for Desert Sand is $8.56with 95.24% and

negotiated to$6.95 with 96.14%.

CONCLUSION

158 159

During the final strategy process we eliminated India and the

Philippines from our potential manufacturing locations. Each of these

countries presented risks that were very difficult for Ecru to overlook in

the process of manufacturing the Ecru Basics Collection. These factors

overall for both countries include unstable government and economic

positioning, the restricted size of the textile and apparel industry, high

manufacturing costs, low quality and craftsmanship and unethical

work and labor environments.

Due to the fact that Ecru focuses highly on their ethics, code

of conduct, craftsmanship and quality as well as the safety of the

environment, we have chosen to focus our manufacturing in three

potential countries, China, Sri Lanka and El Salvador. Prices are

very strong and competitive in these three countries and Ecru feels

comfortable working with each of them to negotiate a fair deal that

will benefit both Ecru and the manufacturer.

Our products will be placed in each of these three countries

to minimize our risks and to maximize our opportunity to protect our

products if something were to happen to the facility. This not only

benefits us but it also gives Ecru a chance to learn more about each of

these factories and potentially increase our quantities and ultimately

give the facilities more business in the years to come.

These manufacturers are looking to expand their portfolios and branch

away from their standard big name companies by adding luxury,

fashionable garments from a small privately owned brand to their

portfolio. Both Ecru and the manufacturers in China, Sri Lanka and

El Salvador have the ability to benefit from this new partnership and

grow with Ecru as it expands into new products and lines in the future.

160 161

COST SHEETS

Style 1 - Latte

Style 2 - Barley

Style 3 - Ivory

Style 4 - Bisque

Style 5 - Desert Sand

APPENDIX

Cost Sheets

Tech Packs

Sourcing Guidelines

Supplier Emails

Bibliography

162 163

STYLE 1 - CHINA STYLE 1 - EL SALVADOR

164 165

STYLE 1 - INDIA STYLE 1 - PHILIPPINES

166 167

STYLE 1 - SRI LANKA STYLE 2 - CHINA

168 169

STYLE 2 - EL SALVADOR STYLE 2 - INDIA

170 171

STYLE 2 - PHILIPPINES STYLE 2 - SRI LANKA

172 173

STYLE 3 - CHINA STYLE 3 - EL SALVADOR

174 175

STYLE 3 - INDIA STYLE 3 - PHILIPPINES

176 177

STYLE 3 - SRI LANKA STYLE 4 - CHINA

178 179

STYLE 4 - EL SALVADOR STYLE 4 - INDIA

180 181

STYLE 4 - PHILIPPINES STYLE 4 - SRI LANKA

182 183

STYLE 5- CHINA STYLE 5 - EL SALVADOR

184 185

STYLE 5 - INDIA STYLE 5 - PHILIPPINES

186 187

STYLE 5- SRI LANKA

TECH PACKS

Style 1 - Latte

Style 2 - Barley

Style 3 - Ivory

Style 4 - Bisque

Style 5 - Desert Sand

188 189

STYLE 1

190 191

192 193

STYLE 2

194 195

196 197

198 199

STYLE 3

200 201

202 203

STYLE 4

204 205

206 207

208 209

STYLE 5

210 211

212 213

CODE OF CONDUCT

This Code of Conduct is applicable to all supplier, their

subcontractors and other business partners that conduct business

with Ecru.

We require that parties which wish to conduct business with Ecru sign

a completed vendor compliance agreement to acknowledge and

abide by our Code of Conduct.

It is the responsibility of Ecru’s suppliers and other business partners to

inform any subcontractors about Ecru’s Code of Conduct to ensure

that the requirements are abided by in every factory and workplace

that contributes to Ecru’s merchandise.

214 215

1. Legal Requirements

1.1 All of Ecru’s suppliers and business partners must abide national

laws in all activities in the country of operation.

1.2 Ecru’s requirements may go beyond the national law’s

requirements

2. Child Labor

Ecru does not permit child labor and no person under the age of 16

shall be employed even if the legal age for employment is less than

16 years of age.

3. Health and Safety

3.1 Working Environment

Suppliers must adhere to all laws regarding health and safety.

Suppliers shall provide workers with a clean, safe and healthy work

environment. No exposed wires will be permitted.

3.2 Fire Safety

Ecru requires emergency exits be well lit and clearly marked on

every floor. All employees must receive training in regards to how to

respond to fire or other cases of emergency. Fire extinguishers must

be available for emergency use and their location made known

during training exercises.

3.3 Accidents and First Aid

First aid equipment must be available and its location know to all

employees.Textiles). The growing number of young population in

India implies the potential and active workforce in the world which

looks positive for outsourcing for skilled and talented labors; more

than 70% of population will be working age in 2025.

4. Worker’s Rights

4.1 Basic Rights

4.1.1 All workers are to be treated with respect and dignity, free from

humiliation, corporal punishment or abuse of any kind.

216 217

4.1.2 No discrimination of workers based on sexual orientation,

gender, religion, political opinion, race, ethnic origin, disability,

pregnancy or age will be tolerated. Employees have the opportunity

to anonymously report noncompliance with the Code of Conduct.

4.1.3 Forced labor is prohibited as is the use of illegal and prison labor.

4.1.4 All employees have the right to organize and join associations.

4.2 Wages

Wages are to reflect the experience, qualifications and performance

of an employee and are to be paid regularly and on time. Each

employee will be paid at least legal minimum wages as determined

by local government.

4.3 Working Hours

4.3.1 Ordinary working hours shall not exceed the legal limit and shall

never exceed 48 hours per week. Overtime must be both voluntary

and compensated and hours shall not exceed the legal limit and

shall never surpass 8 hours per week.

4.3.2 Each employee is allotted a 30 minute lunch break and 2 15

minute breaks each day.

4.3.3 Ecru requires that all its business partners and Suppliers

communicate the Code of Conduct with employees and supervisors

in their native language.

5. Housing Conditions

If employee housing facilities are provided by a company the health

and safety requirements under clause 3 must be followed.

6. Environment

Suppliers must comply with all laws regarding the environment in their

country of location, this includes having any relevant environmental

permits and licenses for its operations.

6.1 Water Management

Wastewater from wet processes must be treated before disposal and

meet requirements of local legislation when it comes to quality.

218 219

6.2 Waste Management

Waste and hazardous materials must be disposed of in accordance

with the law of the country in which the company operates.

7. Monitoring and Enforcement

7.1 Transparency

Ecru expects the companies it works with to keep accurate records

so that the company may be accurately assessed without the

falsification of documents. We expect all business partners and

suppliers to be transparent and to not purposefully mislead auditors.

7.2 Monitoring

7.2.1 Ecru will schedule 2 audits per year and reserves the right to

make unannounced visits for purposes of auditing to all parties

producing goods or services for Ecru.

7.2.2 We reserve the right to appoint an independent third party to

conduct audits in order to evaluate compliance with Ecru’s Code of

Conduct.

7.2.3 Suppliers may not coach employees on how to answer or

respond to inquiries from Ecru representatives during audits.

7.3 Corrective Action

Failure or unwillingness to correct violations of Ecru’s Code of

Conduct and local law with in an allotted amount of time would

damage the supplier’s relationship with Ecru and could lead to

reduced business or termination of business between the two parties.

220 221

SRI LANKA

SUPPLIER EMAILS & CALLS

222 223

EL SALVADOR INDIA

224 225

226 227

228 229

PHILIPPINES *None of the suppliers replied the emails, but we managed to call them.

CHINA

230 231

232 233

234 235

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