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Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 1 DEVELOPMENTS IN ENVIRONMENT FRIENDLY FINISHES FOR COTTON FABRICS AND GARMENTS R.B.Chavan Dept. of Textile Technology, Indian Institute of Technology, Hauz-Khas, New Delhi 110016

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Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 1

DEVELOPMENTS IN

ENVIRONMENT FRIENDLY

FINISHES FOR COTTON

FABRICS AND GARMENTS

R.B.Chavan

Dept. of Textile Technology,

Indian Institute of Technology,

Hauz-Khas, New Delhi 110016

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 2

PRESENT CONCEPT

POLLUTERS MUST PAY

CRADLE TO GRAVE

WOMB TO TOMB

NOT ONLY FINAL PRODUCT BE ECO FRIENDLY

RAW MATERIALS, PRODUCTION PROCESSES,

PACKAGING, ECO FRENDLY EVEN AFTER DIPOSAL

MEET EMS 14000 AND SAS 1800 STANDARDS

ECO FRIENDLY PRODUCTS INDENTIFIED BY ECO

LABLES

GREEN MINDED CONSUMER PREFER ECO PRODUCTS

EVEN AT HIGH COST

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 3

COTTON DOMINATES

READILY AVAILABLE

AFFORDABLE PRICE

HYDROPHILIC

COMFORTABLE IN TROPICAL

CLIMATE

BEING NATURAL ECO FRIENDLY

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 4

CONVENTIONAL COTTON CONVENTIONAL COTTON IS NOT ECO

FRIENDLY

USE OF FERTILIZERS, PESTICIDES AND

VARIOUS CROPS RELATED CHEMICALS

DURING COTTON CULTIVATION.

PRESENCE OF THESE CHEMICALS AS

RESIDUE ON COTTON BOLLS

WASHED AWAY DURING PREPARATORY

PROCESSES

WATER POLLUTION

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 5

COTTON CULTIVATED WITHOUT USING

FERTILIZERS PESTICIDES AND OTHER

CHEMICALS (ORGANIC FARMING)

RESIDUE OF THESE CHEMICALS REMOVED

DURING FIRST TWO SEASONS OF

CULTIVATION

COTTON FROM THIRD SEASON ONWARDS IS

ECO FRIENDLY COTTON

INDENTIFIED BY LOGOS

ORGANIC COTTON

GREEN COTTON

NATURAL COTTON

ECO FRIENDLY COTTON

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 6

NATURALLY COLOURED COTTON

CULTIVATION SINCE ANCIENT TIME

PISTA GREEN, BROWN ARE POPULAR

COLOURS

NOT POPULAR ON COMMERCIAL SCALE

LOW STAPLE LENGTH

INFERIOR STRENGTH

POOR SPINABILITY

REVIVAL OF NATURALLY COLOUR COTTON

CULTIVATION

NOT TO BE DYED

ELIMINATE POLLUTION CAUSED DURING

DYEING

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 7

FINISHING TEATMENTS HELP TO

MAKE CONSUMER SALEABLE

PRODUCT

VALUE ADDITION

IMPART DESIRABLE PROPERTIES

ECO FRIENDLY FUNCTIONAL

FINISHES

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 8

IMPORTANT FINISHES FOR COTTON

EASY CARE/DURABLE PRESS/WRINKLE FREE FINISHING

SOFTENING

ENZYME/BIO FINISHING

WATER PROOF BREATHABLE FINISHING

SOIL RELEASE AND STAIN RELEASE FINISHES

ANTI MICROBIAL FINISHES

UV PROTECTION

EMERGING FINISHES

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 9

EASY CARE/WRINKLE FREE

FINISHING

CREASING/WRINKLE FORMATION DURING USE

AND ON WASHING OF COTTON GARMENTS

AFTER WASH MAINTENANCE EXPENSIVE

TREATMENT WITH CROSS LINKING AGENT

TRADITIONALLY KNOWN AS RESIN FINSHING

IMPART CREASE RESISTANT PROPERTY

LOSS IN STRENGTH

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 10

FABRIC FINISHING

PRE CURE

POST CURE

GARMENT FINSIHING

DIP OR TUMBLE PROCESSES

PROCESS ROUTE

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 11

PRE CURE PROCESS

PAD DRY CURE

· MOST POPULAR PROCESS FOR

FABRIC FINISHING

· UNIFORM DISTRUBUTION OF

CHEMICALS

· BETTER PROCESS CONTROL

· CARRIED OUT AT MILL

LEVEL

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 12

POST CURE PROCESS

PAD DRY AT MILL LEVEL

• SENSITIZED FABRIC

• TRANSPORT TO GARMENT UNIT

• GARMENT MAKING

• PRESSING TO SET CREASES AT

DESIRED PLACES

• CURE

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 13

STEPS

PAD (60-70% PICK UP)

DRY AT 70oC, 8-10% MOISTURE

CONTENT

SANFORIZE (NO MOISTURE SPRAY)

GARMENT MAKING

GARMENT PRESSING

GARMENT CURING 150-160 oC

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 14

PRECAUTIONS

PRE FINISHING STAGE

GOOD ABSORBANCY (<3sec)

FREE FROM SIZE

HIGH TENSILE AND TEAR STRENGTH

SUFFICIENT TO REMAIN ACCEPTABLE EVEN AFTER

50% LOSS ON FINISHING

USE MERCERIZED COTTON

ADEQUATE DYE FASTNESS

FREE FROM SOFTENER BEFORE FINISHING

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 15

PRECAUTIONS

TO AVOID PRE MATURED CROSS

LINKING

• CAREFUL STORAGE OF SENSITIZED

• FABRIC, SHIPMENT BY AIR

• MANY STORE UNDER

REFRIGERATION

• SHOULD NOT BE STORED MORE

THAN 3 MONTHS

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 16

FINISHING IN GARMENT FORM

MERITS

PERMANENT CREASE SETING AT

DESIRED PLACES

NO RISK OF PRE MATURED CROSS

LINKING

GARMENT SEAM PUCKERING

MINIMIZED

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 17

POINTS TO BE CONSIDERED

CAREFUL SELECTION OF

SEWING THREAD, BUTTON, ZIPS

STABLE TO BATH CHEMICALS, HEAT

FINISHING IN GARMENT FORM

OFFERS ONLY ONE CHANCE

ANY THING WRONG CAN NOT BE

RECTIFIED

RESIN STRIPPING AND

REPROCESSING CAUSES MORE

DAMAGE

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 18

GARMENT FINISHING METHODS

DIP PROCESS

TUMBLE PROCESS

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 19

DIP PROCESSDIP GARMENT IN FINISH BATH (INSIDE OUT,

M:L :: 1:5)

WASHING MACHINE MAY BE USED

ROTATE FOR 20 min.

HYDROEXTRACT (70-80% PICK UP)

TUMBLE DRY AT 70oc, MOISTURE CONTENT

10-12%

TURN THE GARMENT RIGHT SIDE OUT

IRO/STEAM PRESS TO SET CREASES AT

DESIRED PLACES

CURE AT 150 oc – 160 oc for 8-10 min

EXTRACTED SOLUTION MAY BE REUSED

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 20

TUMBLE METHOD

PLACE GARMENTS (INSIDE OUT) IN WASHING

MACHINE DRUM

SATURATE WITH FINISH BATH BY SPRAY

APPLICATION

ROTATE DRUM FOR 20 min

TAKE CARE TO AVOID EXCESSIVE DRIPPING

OF CHEMICALS FROM GARMENT

IF DRY SPOT, RESATURATE, TUMBLE FOR

ADDITIONAL TIME

HYDROEXTRACT

OTHER STEPS SAME AS EARLIER PROCESS

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 21

IMPORTANT FEATURES

M:L:: 1:0.85 –1:1

TUMBLE ROTATION SPEED 28-30

rpm

TUMBLE DRYING TEMP. SHOULD

NOT EXCEED 70 oc

MOISTURE RETENTION AFTER

DRYING 10-12%,

IF LESS RESATURATE AND DRY

LOAD SIZE 50 Kg.

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 22

CHEMICALS USEDCROSS LINKING AGENT

LOW FORMALDEHYDE DMDHEU

EXTRNAL OR BUILT IN CATALYST SYSTEM AND BUFFER

CATALYST

MOST COMMON MgCl2 , CITRIC ACID

WETTING AGENT

HIGH DENSITY PE EMULSION

IMPART HAND

IMPROVE TEAR STRENGTH, ABRASION RESISTANCE

AMINO OR REACTIVE SILICONE

IMPART SOFT HAND

IMPROVE WRINKLE RECOVERY

SILICONE ELASTOMER

IMPART SPRINGINESS

IMPROVE STRENGTH

ACRYLATES

IMPROVE SOIL RELEASE

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 23

TYPICAL APPLICATION RECIPE

CROSS LINKING AGENT 40-120 g/l

MgCl2 10-25 g/l

CITRIC ACID 0.3 g/l

SOFTENER (COMBINATION) 40 g/l

WETTING AGENT 1 g/l

pH 4-4.5

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 24

FINISHING STAGE

AFTER DRYING RESIDUAL MOISTURE CONTENT SHOULD

NOT BE < 10%.

LOW MOISTURE GIVES HIGH DRY CRA, LOSS IN STRENGTH

GOOD WET CRA WHEN MOISTURE AFTER DRYING IS HIGH

SULPHUR DYED GARMENT SHOULD BE AVOIDED,

LIBERATE ACID, PREMATURE RESIN CURING, LOSS IN

STRENGTH

1-2% UREA ADDITION IN FINISH BATH CONTROLS

FORMALDEHYDE RELEASE

UREA REDUCES EFFICIENCY OF FINISH BATH, TAKE 10%

EXTRA RESIN

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 25

STONE WASH AND OTHER FINISHES ARE

GIVEN BEFORE WRINKLE FREE FINISH

USE LOWER (I50oc) FOR WHITE GARMENTS

TO AVOID YELLOWING

POCKETS,BELT,LOOPS,LABLES,

SEWINGTHREAD,BUTTONS,ZIPPERS

SHOULD BE RESISTANT TO FINISH BATH

CHEMICALS AND CURING HEAT

GARMENT STAGE

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 26

QUALITY CONTROL

PHYSICAL TESTS

DRY AND WET CRA

SMOOTH APPEARANCE RATING

%RESIN ADD-ON

TENSILE STRENGTH

ABRASION RESISTANCE

DIMENSIONAL STBILITY

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 27

CHEMICAL TESTCuen TEST (1N CUPRIETHYLENE DIAMINE

HYDROXIDE)

PULL FIBRES FROM YARN OF THE FINISHED

GARMENT (FROM THE BACKSIDE)

· PUT ON MICROSCOPIC SLIDE

· PUT 1-2 DROPS OF Cuen SOLUTION

PUT COVER SLIDE

· OBSERVE AFTER 15 min UNDER MICROSCOPE

· RATING 3-4 IS ACEPTABLE

· RATING < 3 FAILS, LOW CROSSLINKS

RATING > 4 FAILS, HEAVY STRENGTH LOSS

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 28

SWELLING RATING MEANING

NONE 5 FULLYCROSSLINKED

SLIGHT OR NONE 4 GOOD CROSS LINKED

MODERATE 3 MODERATE CROSS LINKED

MODERATE TO 2 PRTIALLY CROSS LINKED

HEAVY

HEAVY, RAPID 1 LOW CROSS LINKED

RAPID AND 0 NO CROSS LINKED

DISSOLVES

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 29

ECO FRIENDLY CROSS LINKING AGENTS

MOST POPULAR CROSS LINKING AGENTS

LOW FORMALDEHYDE (DMDHEU) OR ETHERIFIED

(DMeDHEU)

EFFICIENT AND COST EFFECTIVE

RELEASE OF FORMALDEHYDE DURING

DRYING AND CURING,

GARMENT STORAGE AND USE

WORLD WIDE CONCERN BECAUSE OF

IMPACT ON HUMAN HEALTH

ENVIRONMENT

KNOWN TO BE CARCINOGENIC AND DERMATITIS EFFECTS

ACCEPTABLE FORMALDEHYDE LEVEL 20 ppm

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 30

CONTROL OF FORMALDEHYDE RELEASE FROM

DMDHEU

WASH AFTER FINISH

ADDITION OF FORMALDEHYDE

ACCEPTOR/SCAVENGER LIKE UREA

MODIFICATION OF DMDHEU TO

PRODUCE ZERO FORMALDEHYDE

ETHERIFIED PRODUCT

ETHERIFIED DMDHEU IS MORE EXPENSIVE

AND LESS EFFECTIVE

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 31

POLYCARBOXYLIC ACIDS (PCAs)

WELCH IN 1998 REPORTED THE USE OF

BTCA FOR CROSS LINKING OF COTTON

CATALYST SODIUM HYPOPHOSPHITE

GOOD CRA

GOOD STRENGTH RETENTION

DURABLE TO WASHING

EXCEEDINGLY HIGH COST PREVENTED

COMMERCIALIZATION

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 32

CITRIC ACID

LOW PRICED TRICABOXYLIC ACID

LESS EFFECTIVE, LESS DURABLE

COMPARED TO BTCA

YELLOWING ON CURING

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 33

MECHANISM OF PCA CROSS LINKING

DMDHEU FORMS ETHER BONDS WITH COTTON

PCA FORMS ESTER BONDS

ESTERIFICATION IN TWO STEPS

STEP 1

DEHYDRATION OF TWO ADJACENT COOH GROUPS

FORMATION OF ANHYDRIDE UNDER CURING CONDITIONS

STEP 2

ESTERIFICATION WITH CELLULOSE

REACTION ACCELERATED IN PRESENCE OF ALKALI

METAL SALTS OF PHOSPHORUS

SODIUM HYPOPHOSPHITE MONO HYDRIDE (NaH2PO 2.H2O)

MOST SATISFACORY

CATALYST ACCELERATE THE RATE OF ANHYDRIDE

FORMATION AND CROSS LINKING

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 34

OTHER CARBOXYLIC ACIDS

PCA OTHER THAN BTCA SUITABLE

GIVE CRA IN THE RANGE OF 285

DP RATING 4.3 - 4.7

VARIATION IN DURABILITY TO ALKALINE

WASHING

ORDER OF DURABILITY -

BTCA>CA>MALEIC ACID>SUCCINIC ACID

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 35

DEMERITS OF PCA FINISH

PHOSPHATE CATALYSTS NON ECO FRIENDLY

MOST EFFECTIVE IS SODIUM HYPO PHOSPHITE

EXPENSIVE

REDUCING AGENT

AFFECT SULPHUR AND REACTIVE DYES

CONSUME LARGE AMOUNT OF OXYGEN FROM WATER

INFLUENCE AQUATIC LIFE

RECENT ATTEMPTS TO USE TRI SODIUM CITRATE OR

COMBINATION OF SODIUM OXALATE AND SODIUM FORMATE

SAFE TO SULPHUR AND REACTIVE DYES

SAFE TO AQUATIC LIFE

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 36

COST OF BTCA

HIGH COST OF BTCA

WAYS TO REDUCE COST

SOPHISTICATED MANUFACTURE

PROCESS

USE BTCA PASTE FORM WITHOUT

PURIFICATION

FINISHING COST MAY BE REDUCED BY

MIXING OTHER PCAs

TEA MAY BE USED TO REDUCE

FINISHING COST AND IMPROVE

FABRIC STRENGTH

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 37

YELLOWING EFFECT OF CA

UNDER CURING CONDITIONS

PRODUCTS FORMED ARE

TRANS ACONITIC ACID, ITACONIC

ACID, CITRACONIC ACID

YELLOW IN COLOUR

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 38

MINIMIZATION OF YELLOWING

INCORPORATE TEA, N,N BIS HYDROXYETHYL

GLYCINE, BORIC ACID OR PEG

TEA IS MOST EFFECTIVE TO SUPPRESS

YELLOWING

OH IN TEA REACT WITH OH IN CA

PREVENT CA TO DECOMPOSE TO

UNSATURATED ACIDS UNDER CURING

FORMATION OF ACIDS RESPONSIBLE FOR

YELLOWING PREVENTED

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 39

POOR WASH FASTNESS OF FINISH

PRESENCE OF OH IN CA REDUCES THE

STABILITY OF ESTER BOND WITH CELLULOSE

DURING ALKALINE WASH

WAY OUT

MODIFY OH IN CA

INCORPORATE POLY MALEIC ACID (PMA) IN

FINISH BATH

-COOH OF PMA REACTS WITH OH OF CA

BLOCKS OH GROUP IN CA

ENHANCE WASH FASTNESS OF FINISH

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 40

SUMMARY OF PCA FINISH HIGH COST

NON ENVIRONMENT FRIENDLY CATALYST

YELLOWING

THESE PROBLEMS ARE UNDER INVESTIGATION

SOME HAVE BEEN SATISFACTORILY SOLVED

IN NEAR FUTURE PCA WOULD REPLACE CONVENTIONAL

DMDHEU BASED CROSS LINKING AGENTS

RECENT APPROACH IS TO USE

COMBINATION OF HOMOPOLYMER OF PMA AND TER

POLYMER OF MALEIC ACID, ACRYLIC ACID AND VINYL

ALCOHOL

FINISH EQUIVALENT TO DMDHEU

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 41

SOFTENERS

SILICONE SOFTENERS

CLASSIFICATION

NON REACTIVE

REACTIVE

ORGANO FUNCTIONAL

NON REACTIVE

BASED ON POLY DIMETHYL SILOXANES (PDMS)

SOFTENING EFFECT NOT DURABLE DUE TO

ABSENCE OF REACTIVE GROUPS

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 42

SILICONE SOFTENERS

REACTIVE SILICONES

PDMS POLYMER MODIFIED WITH SILANE H OR

SILANOL FUNCTIONAL GROUP

BETTER DURABILITY

ORGANO FUNCTIONAL SILLICONES

ORGANO FUNCTIONAL REACTIVE GROUPS INTRODUCED IN PDMS (AMINE, EPOXIDE, CARBOXY etc)

IMPROVE ORIENTATION AND SUBSTANTIVITY ON FIBRE

VERY SOFT FINISH (SUPER SOFT)

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 43

ECO FRIENDLINESS PDMS PRESENT IN EFFLUENT IN THE FORM OF TINY

DISPERSED DROPLETS

ATTACH TO SUSPENDED SOLIDS

BEING WATER INSOLUBLE AND NON VOLATILE BECOME MINOR PART OF SLUDGE

IF SLUDGE IS

INCINERATED, SILICONE GETS CONVERTED TO SILICA, WATER AND CO2

AS LAND FILL, INTRODUCE PDMS IN SOIL

NATURALLY GETS DEGRADED

THOUGH PDMS ARE HIGHLY RESISTANT TO BIO DEGRADATION

SOIL CONTACT BREAK DOWN TO LOW MOLECULAR WEIGHT PRODUCTS

DECOPOSITION PRODUCTS ARE SUSCEPTIBLE TO BIOLOGICAL DECOMPOSITION EVENTUALLY TO NATURAL SILICA.

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 44

EFFECTS PDMS IS ECOLOGYCALLY INERT

NO EFFECT ON AEROBIC OR ANAEROBIC

BACTERIA

DOES NOT INHIBIT BIOLOGICAL PROCESS

DURING WASTE WATER TREATMENT

NO ADVERSE EFFET ON SEED GERMINATION OR

PLANT SURVIVAL

DO NOT BIO CONCENTRATE IN AQUATIC LIFE

NO ADVERSE EFFECT ON AQUATIC LIFE AND

ANIMAL LIFE

NO SIGNIFICANT BOD

NO THREAT TO INSECT POPULATION AND BIRDS

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 45

WATER RESISTANT BREATHABLE FINISH

IMPERMEABLE TO WATER DROPLET

ALLOW THE ESCAPE OF WATER VAPOUR

POSSIBLE TO ACHIEVE BECAUSE OF SIZE DIFFERENCE

LIQUID WATER MOLECULAR SIZE 100 MICRONS DIAMETER

WATER VAPOUR MOLECULAR SIZE 0.0004 MICRONS

SIZE DIFFERENCE FACTOR 2,50,000

SUCH GARMENTS DESIGNED FOR

SPORTS WEAR

SKI WEAR

TRACK SUITS

RAIN WEAR

MOUNTENEERING CLOTHING

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 46

CLASSIFICATION OF BREATHABLE

FABRICS

HIGH DENSITY WOVEN FABRICS

LAMINATED FABRICS

COATED FABRICS

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 47

HIGH DENSITY WOVEN FABRICS

OBTAINED BY DENSLY WEAVING FINE

SMOOTH MICRO FIBRE YARNS

WIND PROOF

EXCELLENT WATER VAPOUR PERMEABILITY

NOT WATER RESISTANT EVEN AFTER

FINISHING

USED FOR HIGH FASHION SKI CLOTHING

WHERE WIND PROOFING AND WATER

VAPOUR PERMEABILITY ARE IMPORTANT

USED AS OUTER COVER GARMENT AS WIND

CHEATER

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 48

LAMINATED FABRICS

ROTORY SCREEN OR SPRAY COATING OF FABRIC

WITH BREATHABLE ADHESIVE

LAMINATION OF MICRO POROUS BREATHABLE

BARRIER FILM LIKE PTFE

BREATHABLE FILMS ARE MADE THROUGH

BIAXIAL STRETCHING

MECHANICAL FIBRILATION

CLAIM OF 9 BILLION MICRO PORES PER SQUARE

INCH WITH A MAXIMUM PORE SIZE OF 0.2 MICRON

SUCH PTFE MEMBRANES ARE USED IN GORETEX

TWO AND THREE LAYER LAMINATES OF

POLYESTER FABRIC

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 49

COATED FABRICS

IMPORTANT TECHNIQUES

SOLVENT EXCHANGE

PHASE SEPARATION

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 50

SOLVENT EXCHANGE

DISSOLVE POLYMER IN WATER MISCIBLE

SOLVENT

THIN COATING ON TO FABRIC

DEVELOPMENT OF MICRO POROUS STRUCTURE

BY PASSAGE THROUGH AQUEOUS POLYMER

COAGULATION BATH

EXAMPLE

POLYMER: POLYURETHANE

SOLVENT: DMF

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 51

PHASE SEPARATIONDISSOLUTION OF COATING POLYMER IN A MIXTURE OF

SOLVENT AND HIGH BOILING POINT NON SOLVENT MIXTURE

COAT THE POLYMER, DRY

EVAPORATION OF SOLVENT DURING DRYING

NON SOLVENT STILL PRESENT

PRECIPITATION OF POLYMER AS MICRO POROUS

LAYER

UCE COAT 2000 (UCB SPECIALITY CHEMICALS)

POLY URETHANE COATING

SOLVENT: LOW BOILING METHYL ETHYLE KETONE

NON SOLVENT: HIGH BOILING PEG

HIGHLY MICRO POROUS COATING ON DRYING

REMOVAL OF PEG ON SUBSEQUENT WASHING.

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 52

BIO FINISHING

APPLICATION OF CELLULASE ENZYMES FOR

FINISHING OF CELLULOSIC FABRICS AND

GARMENTS

CONCEPT DEVELOPED IN 1980’S

PRESENT MAJOR INDUSTRIAL APPLICATION

WASH DOWN OR WORN OUT LOOK (STONE WASH)

ON INDIGO DYED DENIM

PROCESS KNOWN AS BIOSTONING

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 53

MECHANISM

CELLULASE CONSISTS OF THREE

ENZYMES WORKING TOGETHER

SYNERGISTICALLY

1. ENDOGLUCONASES OR ENDO CELLULASE

: HYDROLYSE CELLULOSE RANDOMNLY

2. CELLOBIOHYDROLASE OR EXO

CELLULASE: ATTACK CHAIN ENDS AND

PRODUCE CELLOBUOSE

3. B-(1,4)-GLUCOSIDASE: HYDROLYZE

CELLOBIOSE AND SMALL CHAIN

OLIGOMERS TO GLUCOSE

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 54

ENZYME TYPES

1. ACID STABLE (pH 4.5-5.5)

2. NEUTRAL (pH 6.5-7)

3. ALKALI STABLE (pH 9-10)

TEMPERATURE RANGE 40-60oC

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 55

BIO POLISHING• TREATMENT WITH CELLULASE ENZYM

• PARTIAL SURFACE HYDROLYSIS OF CELLULOSE

• WEIGHT LOSS 3-5%

• STRENGTH LOSS 2-7%

• MERCERIZATION ENHANCES THE RATE OF ENZYMATIC

HYDROLYSIS

• MOST POPULAR FOR BIOSTONING OF INDIGO DYED

GARMENTS

• ELIMINATES OR DEVREASES QUANTITY OF PUMICE

STONES THAT CAUSE DAMAGE TO MACHINE

• AVOIDS OCCURRENCE OF PUMICE DUST IN

ENVIRONMENT AND IN GARMENT CREATING HARSH

HANDLE

• NEUTRAL CELLULSES ARE PREFERRED FOR

BIOSTONING.

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 56

ANTI MICROBIAL FINISH

CLOTHING AND TEXTILE MATERIALS ARE CARRRIERS OF ORGANISMS SUCH AS

PATHOGENIC BACTERIA

ODOUR GENERATING BACTERIA

FUNGI

GROWING CONCERN ALL OVER THE WORLD ON THE

DANGERS OF MICROBIAL CONTAMINATION

RECENT OUT BREAK OF DISEASES LIKE AIDS, HEPATITIS B

HAVE INCREASED THE AWARENESS OF THESE HEALTH

HAZARDS AND NEED FOR PROTECTION

NECESSARY TO IMPART ANTI MICROBIAL FINISH TO FABRIC

OR GARMENT

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 57

SURGICAL APPARELS

A SURGICAL PATIENT IS AT GREAT RISK AS THE

BACTERIAL AND VIRAL DESEASES ARE SPREAD

THROUGH AIR AND BLOOD

ANTI MICROBIAL FINISHED FABRIC PREVENT THE

GROWTH DISEASE CAUSING MICROBES

ANTI MICROBIAL TREATMENT TO SURGICAL

APPARELS IS ESSENTIAL

FOR THE PROTECTION OF PATIENT, DOCTOR AND

NURSE

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 58

UNDER GARMENTS AND BABY

CLOTHING

ANTI MICROBIAL UNDER GARMENTS ARE

USEFUL TO PREVENT SKIN RELATED

DISEASES, URINARY TRACK INFECTION

SINCE INTERNAL INTAKE OF ANTI BIOTIC

FOR INFANT IS NOT DESIRABLE

PROTECTIVE ACTION MAY BE ACHIEVED

THROUGH ANTI BACTERIAL CLOTHING

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 59

REQUIREMENTS OF ANTI

BACTERIAL FINISH

DURABILITY TO MULTIPLE LAUNDERING AND DRY

CLEANING

NO TOXIC EFFECT ON WEARER

ACCEPTABLE MOISTURE TRANSFER PROPERTIES

(BREATHABILITY)

COMPATIBILITY WITH AUXILIARIES AND OTHER

FINISHING CHEMICALS

READY AVAILABILITY AT REASONABLE PRICE

SHOULD NOT AFFECT FASTNESS PROPERTIES OF

DYES

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 60

PROTECTION MECHANISM

CONTROLLED RELEASE

THE ANTI BACTERIAL AGENT IS RELEASED FROM

FINISHED FABRIC AT A RATE SUFFICIENT TO KILL

OR INHIBIT THE GROWTH OF BACTERIA

REGENERATION MODEL

SUBJECTING THE CONTAMINATED FABRIC TO

AGENCY THAT WOULD DESTROY THE BACTERIA.

e.g.

ADDITION OF BLEACHING AGENT DURING

LAUNDERING

EXPOSURE TO UV LIGHT

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 61

PROTECTION MECHANISM

BARRIER OR BLOCKING

INSERTION OF PHYSICAL BARRIER FILM OR

COATING WHICH IS IMPERVIOUS TO

TRANSMISSION OF MICRO ORGANISMS

THROUGH FABRIC

FILM OR COATING THAT HAVE DIRECT

SURFACE CONTACT ACTIVITY AGAINST

BACTERIAL GROWTH

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 62

FINISHING TECHNIQUES

PAD-DRY-CURE

APPLICATION OF ANTIBACTERIAL AGENT ALONG

WITH CROSS LINKING AGENT SUCH AS

VARIOUS TRADE PRODUCTS

CHITOSAN AND CITRIC ACID

POLY(HEXAMETHYLENE HYDROCHLORIDE) PHMB

METHANOLIC EXTRACT OF TULSI LEAVES

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 63

FINISHING TECHNIQUES

GRAFTING

GRAFTING OF POLY-(2-METHYL-5-VINYL PYRIDINE)

ONTO CELLULOSE

IMMERSION IN AQUEOUS KI SOLUTION

MATERIAL SLOWLY RELEASES IODINE TO IMPART

ANTI BACTERIAL AND ANTI FUNGAL ACTIVITY

USED AS SURGICAL DRESSING

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 64

FINISHING TECHNIQUES

BARRIER COATING

COATING OF DOW CORNING 5700 (3-TRI

METHOXY SILYL PROPYL DIMETHYL

OCTADECYL AMMONIUM CHLORIDE)

ORGANO SILICONE POLYMER

THE FINISH IS EFFECTIVE IN INHIBITING THE

GROWTH OF ODOUR CAUSING BACTERIA

STABLE TO 40 WASHES

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 65

SOIL AND STAIN RELEASE FINISHES

IMPORTANT FOR LEISURE WEAR AND

SPORTS WEAR WHERE SOILING IS MORE

IMPORTANT FOR EASY CARE FINISHED

GARMENTS

MAJORITY OF SOIL RELEASE FINISHES

ARE BASED ON

MAKING FIBRE SURFACE HYDROPHILIC

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 66

SOIL AND STAIN RELEASE

FINISHES

THREE MAJOR GROUP OF FINISHES CONTAINING

-COOH GROUPS

OXYETHYLENE O/OR HYDROXYL GROUPS

FINISHES CONTAINING –COOH, OXYETHYLENE, -OH GROUPS

MAY BE INCORPORATED IN THE EASY CARE FINISH BATH

IMPROVE SOIL AND OIL STAIN RELEASE DRAMATICALLY

FLURO CHEMICALS

PROVIDE GOOD SOIL, STAIN RELEASE AND WATER

REPELLENCY

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 67

EMERGING TECHNOLOGIES

TRADITIONAL FINISH APPLICATION

PADDING

LOW WET PICK UP TECHNIQUES LIKE

LICK ROLL

POROUS BOWL

VACUUM EXTRACTION

FOAM APPLICTION

ALTERNATE METHODS

LAMINATION

COATING

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 68

EMERGING TECHNOLOGIES

NEXTEC PROCESS· PATENTED BY NEXTEC APPLICATIONS Inc., USA

· NOVEL PROCESS

· INDIVIDUAL FIBRES WITHIN FABRIC ARE ENCAPSULATED

OR WRAPPED WITH ULTRA THIN FILM OF POLYMER

· CAN BE USED TO IMPART BREATHABLE WATER

RESISTANT FINISH TO FABRIC WITHOUT AFFECTING THE

FABRIC HANDLE

· ALSO POSSIBLE TO IMPART

· WRINKLE RESISTANCE,

· SOIL RELEASE, STAIN RESISTANCE,

· UV PROTECTION

· FLAME RESISTANCE

· MICROBIAL BARRIER

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 69

NEXTEC PROCESS

THIS UNIQUE FIBRE ENCAPSULATION PROCESS ACHIEVED USING

SILICONE BASED POLYMERS

POLYURETHANE

POLYACRYLIC POLYMERS

THE PROCESS WOULD OPEN UP MANY

OPPORTUNITIES FOR PROVIDING MULTI

FUNCTIONAL FINISHES TO COTTON FABRICS

AND GARMENTS

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PLASMA TREATMENT

TREATMENT WITH IONIZED GASES PRODUCED BY ELECTRICAL DISCHARGE

· HIGHLY SURFACE SPECIFIC

· DOES NOT AFFECT BULK PROPERTIED

THE SURFACE PROPERTIES ENHANCED INCLUDE

· WETTABILITY

· ADHESION

· CROSS LINKING

· BIO COMPATIBILITY

· CHEMICAL AFFINITY OR INERTNESS

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 71

MERITS

· LOW ENERGY CONSUMPTION

· DRY TREATMENT

· ENVIRONMENT FRIEDNDLY

· OFFER SCOPE FOR IMPROVEMENT IN

FUNCTIONAL FINISHES FOR COTTON

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 72

USE OF BIO TECHNOLOGY

BY THE NEXT DECADE GENETIC

MANIPULATION OF COTTON GENE MAY

USHER NEW COTTON VARIETIES WITH

IPROVED PROPERTIES TO PRODUCE

INNOVATIVE EFFECTS THROUGH

FINSHING

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 73

UV PROTECTION

· INCREASED HEALTH PROBLEMS ON

EXPOSURE OF SKIN TO UV

RADIATIONS DUE DEPLETION OF

OZONE LAYER

· UV PROTECTION CAN BE IMPARTED

BYTREATMENT OF FABRICS OR

GARMENTS WITH SELECTED UV

ABSORBERS

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 74

CONCLUSIONS

· DESIRABLE PROPERTIES CAN BE IMPARTED TO

COTTON BY APPLICATION OF FUNCTIONAL

FINISHES

· IMPROVE QUALITY OF COTTON

· GIVE VALUE ADDITION

· MANY INNOVATIVE IDEAS ARE BEING

EXPLORED IN THE FIELD OF FUNCTIONAL

FINISHES

· IN THE NEXT DECADE QUITE A FEW NEW

CONCEPTS MAY BE INTRODUCE FOR IMPARTING

DESIRABLE PROPERTIES TO COTTON FABRIC

AND GARMENTS.