JEWELLRIES OF MADHYA PRADESHBY:TUSHAR GUPTA11TH K

HISTORY OF MADHYA PRADESH JEWELLRIESThere is some specialty in this tribal jewellery. Lac jewellery, which is very famous and also favorite, is prominent in Rewa District and Indore District. The artisan used to make chokers, bead chains, earrings, and hair ornaments in the traditional designs. All these ornaments have a golden luster as well. Some of the other important ornaments for married women areMangalsutra and Hansuli. These are actually the symbol of married women. Hansuli is necklace and is also used by unmarried women also. 

The artists of this region normally design beautiful gold and silver jewellery studded with precious as well as semi precious stones and also pearls. These are always coated with enamel work making them more beautiful. Some of the special type of bangles they made, which are of lac and glass, is worn by all the communities. The anklets, which they used, are clove shaped beads. These are usually made of silver. .

One of the important tribe of Madhya Pradesh is Bastar District. The tribal folk of this region are very fond of jewellery. They usually make jewellery out of grass, beads and cane. The traditional ornaments are also very popular at this place. These are usually made of silver, wood, glass, peacock feathers, copper and wild flowers. These ornaments are very popular as these have ethnic value too. The bastar tribal women also wear necklaces made out of one rupee coin. 

A wide variety of silver beads are found all over Madhya Pradesh. In filigree work these silver wires and beads are used.

TYPES OF JEWELLRIES IN MADHYA PRADESH IS FAMOUS FOR1.LAC JEWELLRIES2.MENAKARI JEWELLRIES3.THEVA JEWELLRIES4.JADAU JEWELLRIES

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HISTORY OF LAC JEWELLRIESLac jewelry, also known as lacquer jewelry, originated in Rajasthan and has gained considerable popularity in India today. Lac jewelry is available in versatile designs, which add to its beauty. Among the various items in lac jewelry, the bangles need a special mention. Bangles made of Lac are of bright color and glass work done on them makes them more attractive. Rajasthani people believe that lac bangles bring good omen to those who wear them. They are very popular in Rajasthan and lately are being made in other parts of country too.

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This prominent craft of Rajasthan was initially developed by tribal people of the state. Once the craft of tribal people, lacquer jewelry is now rage of urban India. The accessories made of lac attract everyone for obvious reasons. Some of the major accessories included in lac jewelry, like Bala, Bajuband, Rakhi, Jod, Gajra, Gokhru, Timaniyan, are extremely popular. A good chunk of the jewelry is exported to outside world, which in turn provides more employment and inspires improvisation in design and pattern of jewelry. 

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The process of making lac jewelry is complex. Glass beads, flower shaped mirrors and decorative wire are also used for the enhancement of beauty of the jewelry. The bangles of lac consist of an inner-core that has a covering of thin layer of superior quality lac. Core lac, when mixed with a material similar to white clay, strengthens the bangle. The heating, mixing, kneading, and hammer pounding of the parched ingredients takes place repeatedly and dough like mass is formed. 

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In Meenakari jewelry, precious stones are set and then enameled with gold. Historically speaking, the art was introduced to Rajasthan artisans by Raja Mansingh of Amer. He invited Lahore-based skilled artisans to his kingdom, and their intermingling with the locals craftsmen resulted in an amalgam, which came to be known as Meenakari. Meenakari is also a team work, where specialization of skill is of paramount importance. As it is generally done on the reverse side of kundan jewellery, meenakar has to work with goldsmith, engraver or ghaaria, designer or chitteria as well as jadiya. 

Click icon to add pictureHISTORY OF MENAKARI JEWELLRIES

The art requires higher skill and its intricacy calls for application of technical mindset. In Meenakari, the piece of metal on which the work is to be done, is fixed on a lac stick. Designs of flowers, birds, fish etc are engraved on it. This leads to the creation of walls or grooves, to hold color. Enamel dust, of required color, is then poured into the grooves and each color is fired individually. The heat of the furnace melts the color and the colored liquid gets spread equally into the groove. This process is repeated with each color. 

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The art requires higher skill and its intricacy calls for application of technical mindset. In Meenakari, the piece of metal on which the work is to be done, is fixed on a lac stick. Designs of flowers, birds, fish etc are engraved on it. This leads to the creation of walls or grooves, to hold color. Enamel dust, of required color, is then poured into the grooves and each color is fired individually. The heat of the furnace melts the color and the colored liquid gets spread equally into the groove. This process is repeated with each color. 

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Subsequently, each color is individually fired. Colors, which are most heat resistant, are applied first, as they are re-fired with each additional color. Once the last color has been fired, the object is cooled and burnished or polished with agate. The depth of the grooves, filled with different colors, determines the play of light. Silver and gold are used for the base of Meenakari. Choice of colors, in case of silver, has to be green, yellow or blue, as these are the colors which stick with it. As for gold, all the colors can be applied to it and this is also the reason why the metal is preferred for Meenakari jewellery.

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HISTORY OF JADAU JEWELLERIESJadau Jewelry forms one of the major examples of high skilled craftsmanship that was brought into India by Mughals. Historically speaking, the tradition of Jadau work has been in practice in the states of Rajasthan and Gujarat since the Mughal era. Jadau jewellery is also called engraved jewelry and is unique and a kind in itself. Considered to be a traditional jewelry of India, it is used in many traditional and auspicious occasions, like marriages and festival celebrations.

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Though the art was introduced by in India Mughals, Indian craftsmen made it popular by adding their indigenous skills. In Jadau jewelry, precious and semi precious stones, gems, crystals and beads are embedded in gold, which is first melted a bit. When the gold becomes pliable, the stones are set on it with great precision and artistry. After that, it is allowed to cool down and the stones and gems get fixed on it without any adhesive or carvings.

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Jadau work is team work, where a group of craftsmen are involved together. Each craftsman carries out a specific task related to the jewelry creation. The chiterias make the basic design, ghaarias are responsible for engraving and making holes, Meenakari or enamelling is done by the enameller and the goldsmith takes care of the kundan or the gold. These days, Jadau is done on not just jewelry, but also jewelry boxes and delicate showpieces. 

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Uncut diamonds called polki or vilandi are used as the central stone. Meenakari or art work done at the back of the jewel is purely for beautifying purposes. Highest care and attention is given towards the detail on every piece that the master craftsman creates. The stone setters first set the stone in silver foil, then fuse with a finishing of pure gold.

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HISTORY OF THEVA JEWELLRIES‘Thewa’ in local Rajasthani Dialect means ‘Setting’. Setting of Gold on Glass.Thewa Art is 23 Karat Gold fused on glass at around 1000 degree Celsius.Melting Temp of Gold is 1063 and Silver is 961 degree Celsius.The Art originated 400 Years back in Rajasthan.The artisans were first based in Deogarh then they migrated to Pratabgarh ( in 1818 Pratapgarh passed under British Rule) and then to Jaipur, the city of colours.The unique thing about this art is that these single families of artisans train only their sons. They don’t even train their daughter so that the art may not go out of their family. Only son to son transfer of art is done.

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The craft flourished, especially during Victorian times when an important western market had developed.Many of these objects set in gold were sold to British women living in or visiting the country and were taken to Europe as souvenirs. Some now find their way to the British antique market, and the work is recognized by European jewelry historians for its distinction.Still now also only few artisan families are doing this work.This is purely a handwork which involves extra ordinary patience and extraordinary skill.You can put any one of our pieces under a micros cope and instantly see that it’s been made by hand-and not just by any hand, but by the hand of an artist.” At Jewel Ace each engraved piece is 100 percent hand-engraved from start to finish, a process that can take several hours, or several days, depending on the size of the item.In 2004 Government of India has issued a postal stamp of five rupees to promote this dying art. Since 1966 Thewa artisans have been getting National Awards. They received 10 awards till 2011.Jewel Ace stands as prominent promoter of this 400 year old unique art.Justin Varkey, the CEO and Vice- President   have been honored with Rajiv Gandhi Rashtriya Ekta Samman 2009 for Promoting and reviving this unique dying art.

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