THE THE NEW FALL SLEEVES - Library of CongressThe waist that ls worn wfth this is shell pink...

-The waist that ls worn wfth this is shell

pink taffeta, with wide Irish lace cuffsand a deep Irish lace collar.

All sleeves, no matter what may betheir shape or size or previous conditionof seivitude, are finished with a littlewhite around the hand. Thi3 vogue forwhite is very pronounced and while itmeans expense in the way of lace andlaundry bills it is, nevertheless, so prettythat you do not begrudge the money andthe trouble.

The making of the little lace cuff is nowquite as much an industry as the makingof the lace collar and the prettiest possi-ble piece of fancy work is the knittingofcuffs and collars to turn over tho newfancy sleeves.

Since these wrist bands form so Import-ant a dress adjunct it is not superfluousto describe pair worn by Airs. Stuyve-sant Fish, whose dress is extremely ele-gant always and who is noted for heroriginality as well as her precision.

These cuffs were of white taffeta cutwith a point and on top of the wrist overthe taffeta there were roses applied andleaves of lace- and ecru tint, around theroses and around the leaves, and border-ing the taffeta cuff there was a catstitch-ing design.

Catstitching Is employed more and moreand in the decoration of the fall gowns itis very conspicuous.

Zibeline dresses, rough and looking verymuch like camel's hair, are trimmed withstitched bands and between the rows ofstitching there ls a trimming of catstitch-ing. Often the bands are catstltched tothe gowns.

Sleeves are particularly trimmed In thisway and cuffs are catstitched or crossstitched and shoulder capes are trimmedinthe same way.

Lady de Grey, who is th« Mrs. Stuyve-sant Fish of England wears a black satincoat which was admired by Queen Alex-andra. This coat is called the Marie Stu-art, although why Itshould have receivedthis name no one knows. .It Is cut tightfitting and short like an 'Eton and thefront has no lapels, but ls cut away atthe throat to show a very wide vest.

The distinguishing feature of this coatis its applique. Holes are cut- In it hersand there In Irregular fashion and underthese holes are set pieces of white taffeta,and over the white taffeta pfeces thereare appllqued lace flowers. The coat lsvery much cut up and taffeta ls set un-der all the holes. The description is od-ious, but you willget the idea, '¦-. . .

The wrist puffs which are worn withthis coat—which should be called th»Lady de Grey coat— for Itls so known tothe dressmakers of Paris, are very fulland are made of white chiffon. Over thechiffon there are looped bands of whit*lace Insertion; the whole finally comesinto a cuff of black satin trimmed withbrilliant green embroidery and a brilliantgreen belt ls worn wltn tills.

The Sleeve That Widens.An Immense puff like this would never

in the .world fit into the sleeve of anywinter coat that was ever -invented andso there is a sleeve which is especiallymade for wearing over such, a waist asthis.., The sleeve which ls a coat sleeve lasmall at the shoulder, but -widens Ulc» a.cornucopia; at th« hand It ls immense.There is a delidously old fashioned lookto this sleeve, for it ls lined and paddedand the very latest touch of daintinessshows it filled with sachet powder, sothat as my lady waves her hand at you.you get the delicate odor of her favoritescent. • • - .

For afternoon the ~knife plaited sleev*ls very good. This sleeve is laid Incount-less plaits at the shoulder and the lamsplaiting is preserved at the wrist. Be-tween the shoulder and the wrist .thereis,of course, a great shapeless puff whichsomehow takes a certain grace of itsown.

The pointed lace cuff with a sharp pointwhich comes to the knuckles willbe verymuch In evidence. It ls sometimes twofingers wide and the point reaches quiteto the finger tips. The cuff is tight aroundthe wrist, with Its long point coming;down to the fingers.Ifyou have a pair of lace cuffs you

can give them a touch of great eleganceby embroidering the lace in Russian fash-Ion. Take the most brilliant

-silks you

can find with green predominating andwork regardless of the pattern of the lac»embroidery and design. Be sure that youhave a tree or two In the pattern and awolf, for the wolf embroidery ls to bevery smart this year.

Russian Embroideries.There ls every indication that the na-

ture of embroidery willchange, for Ithastoo longborne a certain conventional pat-tern. In fact, the rose and the rose leaf,the daisy* and pansy and the dear littledesigns have begun to cloy a little uponthe jaded senses and one longs for some-thingnew in the world of art embroidery,and this will be satisfied in the animaldesigns. 'You will see a wolf witha pack>f hounds in pursuit. A horse will fol-.ow, all racing

-through the woods, and

this willbe used for the front of a tunio.or, Ifit is done very small, it will deco-rate the bust of the gown.

-There is a sleeve which is very new In-

deed and it is to be worn upon housegowns. Itls two yards wide at the wristand as small as can be made at the shoul-der. The widening of the sleeve Is neces-sarily abrupt to get this immense fullnessat the wrist.

The sleeve Is bordered with white lacewhich falls over the hand.

*Nothing pret-tier for a breakfast gown could be Im-agined than this and it willbe a featureof the French house dresses.

The making of the automobile coat. ¦•that-it can be worn over the new sleevesof winter, calls for a distinct art of th»dressmaker. Three new sleeves have com*In; one is a coat sleeve which ls ofcourse wider at the wrist than at the topaiid which has a big velvet cuff.

The cuff sets out like a Robespierre cuffand is verv heavy. This auto ls three-quarter length and ls made of wintermelton. It is In a shade of automobilered. but could be made In yellow greenwith black :stitchlngs and bands.

Another coat, also .an auto, which labuilt for wearing over fancy shirt waistshas the full sleeve, but it Is very wideat the hand and is built without a cuffItIs trimmed with a stitched band. Thacoat is an automobile green; which Is al-most s. pea green, and the sleeves arelined withblack satin.

New Auto Colors.•There Is a new blue in town and Itlacalled automobile blue. Itls a little palerthan a cadet blue and it is Inthree-quar-ter length with a box plait in the frontand one in the back. The sleeves aresomething like leg of mutton sleeves, forthey are tight at the top and they are-brought Into a full puff right below the.eir-ow. Below this there is a long tight

'". 1he collars of the new auto coat ar«very interesting. There is a deep squarasailor collar slightly shaped in the front,

•£?^th£bawK

ls b°rdered wlth a stitchedband of doth. There is another sailor-•SgS&*WV9-4S&J2j£i? back Sa^|

• pieces were Joined with catstlchlng, verynarrow, and in black silk.

Cloth of silver and cloth of gold wereput together in strips, and button hole

.stitched, while narrow lace, very delicate,was laid over the whole.

Lace is so decided in tone that one for-get? to look at its reality. The term "reallace" seems to have gone

-out and one

looks not for the "real" lace, as once un-derstood, but for lace that is artistic andadapted to the needs of the garment onwhich It is to be worn. There are mor9and more of these laces appearing andyou can get something for every purposeto which you may desire to put lace.

While it is a season of change it is alsoone of thankfulness, for there is a pretti-ntss about the new sleeves which dressesup the waist and secures a certain style,women who have always been extremelyp.aln in figure are now looking dressy, al-most picturesque, and it is all due to thenew sleeves.

Rules inMaking Sleeves.In the vernacular of the dressmakereach sleeve has a name, but to the ama-

teur the sleeves are fancy ones, each dif-fering from the other in some fashion.And here are the rules for the amateurto go by, or what may be called the guld-

shfevts f0I> the maklng of the newAll sleeves are in two materials at least,

ana many are in three or four.The outer or upper material ls the

heavier one, while the lower or under ma-terial is of lighter grade..Lace, gimp, silk insertion. Persian em-broidery. Oriental passementerie and silks

in brilliant metallic hues are used for thatrimmings and, instead of being put on inconventional ways, are arranged 1

'in de- •

cidedly novel methods.A sleeve which ls too long to be a di-

rectoire is made of silver silk covered• with a braided design. This sleeve ls not£* tight enough to hug the arm, but is cut"in coat sleeeve fashion, rather large, andbelow the elbow itis turned back and the*cuff is braided to match the upper sleeve.The cuff ls trimmed with stitched bandsof silk. There is ten under sleeve of silvercolored taffeta, which ls finished with alace cuff, which is lined with silver satin.

The rest of the waist may be interest-ing:; it is in silver silk, all fancifullybraided, and is cut down to a point in thefront, while the back ls chopped off. Itsuggests a directoire coat Just a little,for its collar ls a directoire collar and

. th§re is a full'lace vest.

The Vivian Sartoris Sleeve.•¦ There is a street sleeve which ls very.popular just now. Itis part of an Eton

§ coat and the Eton is cut off so that itis quite short enough to reveal the* waistunderneath. This coat is in the trousseau. of Mrs. Scovel, who was Miss Vivian Sar-lorts. It Is brown satin cloth and the. back ls laid in full box plaits and thefront ls cut in the same manner. Theback extends only a little below theshoulder b.aae3, giving a certain smartlook to the coat. The front is of thesame length, just 'over the bust, and thewhole coat is lined with shell pink taf-feta.

Mrs. Scovel's sleeves are very large andthere is a -box plait on top of the shoul--der. At the elbow the sleeve flares and Isvery large around so that itmakes an im-

who Is ".the dressiest of .the royal girls,wears a pongee colored satin dress, not atall expensive, but Very lively.*Itisia din-ner gown ar.d the skirt describes theclinging Grecian cut, , with.straight frontbreaJth'and straight side breadths. Butthe back is fulland falls away in a widesweep, v,: ¦ . . .

There Js a hJp yoke of lace and -thereare tleeve trimmings of lace put on at theshoulder. In cap fashion with the sugges-tion or- a fullness. .. ¦ . • ;¦•¦'

The sleeves are very tight with an outersleeve of chiffon, which is fastened aroundthe upper arm with a band of lace. Againat the.^wrist it is fastened with anotherband of.lace. Between the wrist and theeIb.,0W. *9d,ab

t?v<!!'t there ls an Immensely

full bagr'of the chiffon, laid in side plaitsand. showing a great fullness- which isbrought-. Into something like a- neat ar-rangement by the close little plaitings atthe top and at the wrist. . - - .

Sleeves can best bk described as. won-'derfuL'

%Vhatever .eccentricities and va-garies they may have taken on the pastfew years have all been collected and ex-pressed in the new sleeves of fall.

The statement that no sleeve can bVoutof 6tyle,-;providing it bag somewhere isnot so '?far out of the way. Yet there isa place for the sleeve to bag and a placefor it jta be tight and the woman whois making her new sleeves would better-study the distinction and learn. the differ-ence. U^i\. •¦¦...... v •.-.-.

A luncheon Bieeve worn by the Duchessof Marlborough Is lovely. Its color was

Oh, dear, what can the matter be?Dear, dear, what can th« matter »>??

THATis the cry of the woman of

September as she takes out htr la*tyear's fall gown and looks at it.

And she doe* not have to study itlong before she discovers what the

The Sleeve of a Princess.The Princess Margaret of Connaught,

matter is.The sleeves are wrong—all wrong. And

the worst of It is that they cannot befixed.

The old sleeves must be taken out andcast to the rag bag and new ones putin. That is the oniy way you' can re-juvenate an old gown.

But isn't this easier than'remaking It

entirely, and isn't it better than puttingin a new vest and a new collar? TheEleeve material need not exactly matchthe waist, for it can be a lace or a chif-fon or a net. Or it can be silk, if thegown be nilk, combine:! with somethingelse that goes well with the gown.

The sleeves of the new gown are of the.color of the gowns, but they are not nec-essarily of the same stuff, and all sleeveshave two materials in them. This makesit simple for the home dressmaker who isgcin? to make an old gown look like anewly Imported French creation.

The hint which was given early in thesummer that by fall there would be a re-turn to the bciloon shoulder has not beenrealized. Shoulders are trimmed and verymuch trimmed, but the trimmings are puton flat end in a way that has been calledthe cap trimming. Little lace shouldercap* of heavy lace are placed upon theshoulders of satin dresses and on clothdresses. These caps are fitted and extenddown the arm a little, but there is noth-ing of the ruffle about them.

'"^!ack and Its material taffeta. . itJtuhese are possibilities for the woman of

mtans. • . ,The sleeve was laid in knife p'aits at

ihe shoulder and the plaits were con-tinued to the very elbow, wh»re - they

were suddenly released. This left a very,wide flowing sleeve, 'which bung: fullaround the lower arm, below the elbow:

The Marlborough Slseve.i Ifyou will take a piece of. goods and[knife plait it from the shouluer nearlyto the elbow and will release the plaitsgradually Just above the eibow, end ifycu will let the sleeve hang full fromthe wrist, you willget the idea.. The sleeve* of the Duehtss were linedwith turquufte blue satin. The outsidewas trimmed* around .the bottom of tnesleeve' 'with- a narrow band of blue andwhite passementerie. '¦' •

Another Bieeve, somewhat similar, wasworn by Miss Cynthia Burke-Roche, the

•debutante, .at a luncheon." The sleeve,which was' a tobacco brown taffeta, wastuckeeV downward from the shoulder, withthe tucks standing out.

'

Below the elbowit was very full and the outside wastrimmed with embroidery in green leaves,while the inside was lined with .whitetaffeta embroidered in the same fashion.

Sleeves are not altogether limp.,Thereis a, certain stiffness of, texture aboutthem .which . keeps, them in form, thusaccentuating their size. To get this ef-fect sleeves are made of heavy materials,or if they be of the lighter ones theyare lined. V ¦: • "

•" *

Flowing sleeves are for the most partliiied and in the decoration of the liningthere is another- chance for,pretty handwork. ,--.•¦¦..¦ ¦' • ¦

-. ' ¦¦ ¦:.¦ ¦„«.

The directoire sleeve willbe seen- upt>»some of,the new cloth dresses and.is.al-ways neat and pretty. ':.rIn. the coats it isbetter than in- the house sleeves. A verysmart directoire sleeve was made in blacksilk, flowered with tiny roses, which wereput on in prim little wreaths. The sleeves,which were only elbow length, were skintightand were finished with a wide turn-back cuff of green sating setting out fromthe arm. Under this ,coat was worn agreen silk shirt waist with baggy lowersleeves: These when pulled out from un-der the coat sleeve made just -the rightfall at the wrist

v/Fhw TTato- TrtTnTT^Tigff,.* The. new. sleeves are to be decoratedwith all the new trimmings. There comestitched bands of zibeline for the makingof cuffs.' There are vegetable silk braids,

brilliant in their metallic qualities. Thereare gimps and very pretty silk and metalpassementeries. .' ;>"! *.- ¦ v-

The |new gimps-and beaded trimmings

of all sorts are remarkable for their bril-liancy, i-They Bhow bright j-ose-and gaygreen and the most- beautiful .blues insapphire and turquoise. The Oriental andPersian * gimps are remarkable in thisway and the.most beautiful trimmingscan be obtained for •-' the decoration 1 ofsleeves and yokes and for waist decora-tions generally.

The embroidered bands are good used

Sae-aM^S -.¦' .¦.'.' "".'.¦ j¦

¦ . •

for'cuffs / and ¦for , the heading of puffs.

They are done by hand and show a brightcoloring .and not a little artistic itaste.These can -be stamped :and embroidered,or; the home, decorator can get up herown design, .copying some well knownbordering, or followingin the footsteps ofBome of those who have been in the busi-ness of designing. '.:»^/.,r!>

> A pair of Persian cuffs resembled In noemail degree the crazy quilts of a fewyears since. Bits of Persian embroidery,none longer than a silver quarter, werepieced together Inirregular shape and the

mense rufflingfor the arm. Bits of whitelace insertion are set in the sleeve andunder the insertion there are bits of tur-quoise satin.'

square. The front is cut in sharp notchedso that there are three sharp points ateach side of the front and a sharp polnion each shoulder. *~"*«

THE¦.•¦f.TTNDAY CALL.10

THE NEW FALL SLEEVES