View
0
Download
0
Category
Preview:
Citation preview
{ 50 } VINE ATLAS OF SPAIN AND PORTUGAL
case sulphur wine is lawful”], thereby regulating the use of sulphur in wine in limited quantities, and gave details ofprecisetechnicalspecifications.Thepreservativeeffectof sulphur is the ingredient to which single variety wines owe their characteristic aroma. It replaced the traditional methods of preparing wine in those days using chemical preservatives (some of which were poisonous), leather vessels, enormous admixtures of honey, or concentrating must by evaporation (Diócorides and Galeno, as cited by Bassermann, 1907: 318), smoking in special chambers (the Roman fuminarium), addition of alcohol, resin (retsina) and Apotheka (Greek, Columella, I, 6, 29), all of which, as did the famous artemisia absinthium, completely adulterated the taste.
With the use of sulphur one could recognise the qualitywinevarietiesintoday’ssenseofthetermandthusthe modern “Vitis vinifera gene pool” began to distinguish itself in terms of taste to a greater degree.
Of particular importance for the development of viniculture were the Benedictine and the Cistercian Monks, as well as certain bishops in larger cities. The selection of grapevine varieties gave birth to the great Central European varieties such as Spätburgunder, Riesling, Cabernet and Traminer.The wine had a sacred
purpose as communion wine and has been dignifiedaccordingly in literature and art.
Because a large part of the population was made up of Mozarabs and Jews, wine growing survived and so, despite the Arab occupation, did the autochtonous grapevine varieties.Even at that time Alonso de Herrera (1513) spoke of the Torrentés variety.
Rumour had it that the Pedro Ximénez variety was brought here from Germany by a German called Peter Siemens in the 16th century, which must have been a misunderstanding because the heliothermic requirements of this variety could hardly have existed at latitude 48° N.
In Portugal, it was late in the 12th century that after establishing 120 convents the Cistercians essentially became the keepers of agricultural knowledge but also provided training on how to grow wine to the faithful congregations. Through them the first quality varietieswere selected and intentionally propagated. The Alcobaça Convent is one such example.
Initially, however, Portugal did not participate in this huge international revival by reason of the Islamic occupation. Since viniculture did indeed survive, it would appear that although the new rulers did not prohibit wine growing, they did not permit trade in wine, still less
Table 4 – Influence of trade on the Portuguese V. vinifera gene pool
Historical Period Period Ethnic Group Dynasty Provenance Vitis vinifera Variety
Chalcolithic 3000-2000 BC Iberian Africa Selected Vitis silv.Copper Age 3000-2000 BC Iberian Africa Selected Vitis silv.Bronze Age I 2000 BC Tartessian Asia Minor Selected Vitis silv.Bronze Age II 1200 BC Phoenician Asia Minor MuscatelBronze Age III 900 BC Greeks North/East Mediterranean MalvasiaIron Age 600 BC Celts Indo-Germanic Alóborica, BitúricaIron Age 600 BC Carthaginian Africa Possible African varietiesIron Age 400 BC Lusitanian Iberia Selected Vitis silv.Antiquity 200 BC Roman Italy Trebbiano, Alba Antiquity AD 300 Swabian Germany UnknownLate Antiquity AD 500 Visigoth Danube/Black Sea Pontic varieties?Middle Ages AD 700 Arab Africa Table grapesMiddle Ages AD 750 Umayyad Asia Minor Table grapesMiddle Ages AD 1100 Almohavid Sahara Tolerated under occupationMiddle Ages AD 1200 Almohad Central Morocco Tolerated under occupationMiddle Ages AD 1150 1st Portuguese Dynasty Asturia Selected Vitis silv.Middle Ages AD 1383 2nd Portuguese Dynasty Lisbon Some Portuguese varietiesRenaissance AD 1580 Hapsburg Spain Aragonez, Jaen, etc.Post Renaissance AD 1640 3rd Portuguese Dynasty. Lisbon Cultivated autochthonous V. v.Contemporary AD 1910 Portuguese Republic Lisbon French varieties
LivroCastasParte1Ingles.indd 50 29-07-2011 12:02:06
www.vinetowinecircle.com/
{ 60 } VINE ATLAS OF SPAIN AND PORTUGAL
Table 5.1 – First Descriptions of Grapevine Varieties on the Iberian Peninsula
Name Dates Title Date
Lucius Junius Moderatus Columella AD 4-ca. 70 (Cadiz)
Los doce libros de Agricultura (vid: livro 2) (Translated by J. M. Álvarez de Sotomayor )
1979 Madrid
Ibn al Awam (Abu Zacaria Aben Mohamed Ahmed ebn el Awam)
1150(?)-? (Andalusia)
Agricultura Nabatheeana(Kitan al-Felahah).– Invação Almohada (Josef Antonio Banqueri Edition)
1802 Madrid
Ibn al Baitahar (Abu Muhammad Abdallah Ibn Ahmad Ibn al-Baitar Dhiya al-Din al-Malaqi)
1188-1248 (Malaga)
Kitabal-Jamifial-Adwiyaal-Mufrada 1758 Translation into Latin
Pedro de Crescentis 1230-1321 Memória (35 varieties)
Table 5.2 – Descriptions of Portuguese Grapevine Varieties
Name Dates Title Date
Rui Fernandes Descrição do terreno duas léguas em roda da cidade de Lamego
1532
Vincenzo Alarte Agriculturadasvinhas,LisboaofficinaRealDeslandesiana
1712
José Veríssimo Alvares da Silva 1744-1811 Memoria sobre a cultura das vinhas e sobre os vinhos. Memorias da Agricultura, T. 1 (2). Real Academia das Sciencias de Lisboa
1788
Constantino António Botelho de Lacerda Lobo
1754-1820-22 Memoria sobre a cultura das vinhas em Portugal. Mem. Economicas,T. II. – Idem, Real Academia das Sciencias de Lisboa
1790
Francisco Pereira Rebello da Fonseca ?-1813 Memoria sobre a cultura das vinhas, e manufacturas do vinho. Memorias da Agricultura, T. II (1). Real Academia das Sciencias de Lisboa
1791
Vicente Correia Seabra Silva e Telles 1764-1804 Memoria sobre a cultura das videiras e a manufactura dos vinhos. Mem. de Agricultura, T. II (2). Imprensa Nacional, Lisboa
1791
António Lobo de Barboza Ferreira Teixeira Gyrão (Visc.Vila Romão)
Tratado Teorico e Pratico da Agricultura das vinhas Lisboa, Impresa Nacional
1822
Conde Odart Ampelographie Universelle, Paris à la Librairie Agricole
1841
António Augusto de Aguiar 1838-1887 MemoriasobreosProcessosdeVinificação. Imprensa Nacional
1867
João Ignacio Ferreira Lappa 1823-1893 Technologia Rural. Typog. da Real Academia das Sciencias deLisboa
1874
Visconde de Vila Maior 1809-1884 Manual de Viticultura Prática. Coimbra, Imprensa da Universidade
1875
José Taveira de Carvalho Menezes Apontamentos para o estudo da Ampelographia Portugueza. Boletim da Direcção Geral de Agricultura. Imprensa Nacional. Lisboa
1900
Cincinnato da Costa 1867-1930 OPortugalVitivinícola,estudossobreaAmpelografiae o valor enológico das principais castas de Portugal.Imprensa Nacional. Lisboa
1900
João Marques de Carvalho EstudosAmpelograficos.BoletimD.G.Agric. Imprensa Nacional. Lisboa
1912
Paul Truel Notes sur les cépages de Portugal et leur synonymie. Progrès Agricole et Viticole. Montpellier
1985
J. C. D. de Castro Reis “Cadastro vitícola” Project. IGEf & IVV. 1986
LivroCastasParte1Ingles.indd 60 29-07-2011 12:03:01
www.vinetowinecircle.com/
{ 60 } VINE ATLAS OF SPAIN AND PORTUGAL
Table 5.1 – First Descriptions of Grapevine Varieties on the Iberian Peninsula
Name Dates Title Date
Lucius Junius Moderatus Columella AD 4-ca. 70 (Cadiz)
Los doce libros de Agricultura (vid: livro 2) (Translated by J. M. Álvarez de Sotomayor )
1979 Madrid
Ibn al Awam (Abu Zacaria Aben Mohamed Ahmed ebn el Awam)
1150(?)-? (Andalusia)
Agricultura Nabatheeana(Kitan al-Felahah).– Invação Almohada (Josef Antonio Banqueri Edition)
1802 Madrid
Ibn al Baitahar (Abu Muhammad Abdallah Ibn Ahmad Ibn al-Baitar Dhiya al-Din al-Malaqi)
1188-1248 (Malaga)
Kitabal-Jamifial-Adwiyaal-Mufrada 1758 Translation into Latin
Pedro de Crescentis 1230-1321 Memória (35 varieties)
Table 5.2 – Descriptions of Portuguese Grapevine Varieties
Name Dates Title Date
Rui Fernandes Descrição do terreno duas léguas em roda da cidade de Lamego
1532
Vincenzo Alarte Agriculturadasvinhas,LisboaofficinaRealDeslandesiana
1712
José Veríssimo Alvares da Silva 1744-1811 Memoria sobre a cultura das vinhas e sobre os vinhos. Memorias da Agricultura, T. 1 (2). Real Academia das Sciencias de Lisboa
1788
Constantino António Botelho de Lacerda Lobo
1754-1820-22 Memoria sobre a cultura das vinhas em Portugal. Mem. Economicas,T. II. – Idem, Real Academia das Sciencias de Lisboa
1790
Francisco Pereira Rebello da Fonseca ?-1813 Memoria sobre a cultura das vinhas, e manufacturas do vinho. Memorias da Agricultura, T. II (1). Real Academia das Sciencias de Lisboa
1791
Vicente Correia Seabra Silva e Telles 1764-1804 Memoria sobre a cultura das videiras e a manufactura dos vinhos. Mem. de Agricultura, T. II (2). Imprensa Nacional, Lisboa
1791
António Lobo de Barboza Ferreira Teixeira Gyrão (Visc.Vila Romão)
Tratado Teorico e Pratico da Agricultura das vinhas Lisboa, Impresa Nacional
1822
Conde Odart Ampelographie Universelle, Paris à la Librairie Agricole
1841
António Augusto de Aguiar 1838-1887 MemoriasobreosProcessosdeVinificação. Imprensa Nacional
1867
João Ignacio Ferreira Lappa 1823-1893 Technologia Rural. Typog. da Real Academia das Sciencias deLisboa
1874
Visconde de Vila Maior 1809-1884 Manual de Viticultura Prática. Coimbra, Imprensa da Universidade
1875
José Taveira de Carvalho Menezes Apontamentos para o estudo da Ampelographia Portugueza. Boletim da Direcção Geral de Agricultura. Imprensa Nacional. Lisboa
1900
Cincinnato da Costa 1867-1930 OPortugalVitivinícola,estudossobreaAmpelografiae o valor enológico das principais castas de Portugal.Imprensa Nacional. Lisboa
1900
João Marques de Carvalho EstudosAmpelograficos.BoletimD.G.Agric. Imprensa Nacional. Lisboa
1912
Paul Truel Notes sur les cépages de Portugal et leur synonymie. Progrès Agricole et Viticole. Montpellier
1985
J. C. D. de Castro Reis “Cadastro vitícola” Project. IGEf & IVV. 1986
LivroCastasParte1Ingles.indd 60 29-07-2011 12:03:01
www.vinetowinecircle.com/
{ 61 } VINE ATLAS OF SPAIN AND PORTUGAL
Table 5.3 – Descriptions of Spanish Grapevine Varieties (after Felix Cabello)
Name Dates Title Date
Alonso de Herreira 1470-1539 Agricultura General (15 castas) 1513/1645Valcarcel, J. A. 1720-1799 Agricultura Generaly Gobierno de la Casa de Campo 1765-1795Simón de Rojas Clemente y Rubio 1777-1827 Ensayo sobre las variedades de la vid comun que
vegetan en Andalucía1807
Antonio Casares y Rodrigo 1812-1888 Observaciones sobre el Cultivo de la Vid en Galicia 1843Eduardo Abela y Sáinz de Andino 1836-1908 El libro del viticultor (artigo: clasificación
y sinonímia de las vides)1885
Buenaventura Castellet de Terrasa 1826-1890 Viticultura y Enología o trabajo sobre el cultivo de la vid y los vinos de España (capítulo II. Cepas preferibiles para la obtención de Buenos Vinos) (Levante)
1869
Victor Cruz Manso de Zúñiga y Enrile 1855-1934 Memoria Anual de la Estación Enológica de Haro 1905Nicolás García de los Salmones, N. Dorronsoro, L. & Gros, J.
1865-1942 Las variedades de vid propias de cada comarca española y sus vinos. Estudio general de conjunto – Congreso Nacional de Viticultura (Pamplona julio de 1912) pg. 507-534
1914
Rafael Janini Janini 1866-1948 Resumes de Trabajos realizado en la Estacion Enológica de Requena (Valencia)
1922
Juan Marcilla Arrazola 1886-1950 ViticulturayEnologíaEspañolas;TomoI 1954Gonzalo Fernández de Boabdilla 1896-1987 Viníferas Jerezanas y de Andalucía 1956Hidalgo, L., Rodríguez Candela, M., Serrano, L.
1918-2004 Catastro Vitícola y Vinícola Ed. Ministerio de Agricultura, Madrid
1976
Larrea Redondo, A. 1913- Vides de La Rioja Ed. MAPA, Logroño. 1978Borrego,J.;Gallego,J.F.+;Gómez,J.L.;Martínez,M.I.&Serrano,L.
1948-2009 + Descripcionesampelográficasnacionales. Ed. Comunidad de Madrid
1990
García de Luján, A., Puertas, B. & Lara M.
Variedades de Vid en Andalucía 1990
Lezcano, J. F. Manual de Ampelografía” Ed. Consejo Regulador de la Denominación de Origen Cigales
1991
Hidalgo, L. 1918-2004 Tratado de Viticultura. Madrid. Ediciones Mundi-Prensa.
1993
Chirivella, C., Méndez, J. V., Haba, M. Ecología vitícola. Aptitudes enológicas. Ed. Conselleríad’Agricultura,PescayAlimentació.Generalitat Valenciana. Valencia
1995
Peñín,J.;Cervera,A.;Cabello,F.;Díez,R. & Peñín, P.
Cepas del Mundo”Ed. PI & ERRE EDICIONES 1997
Freijanes, J. & Alonso, M. P. Videiras galegas. Catálogo de variedades autóctonas. Ed. Xunta de Galicia. Santiago de Compostela
1997
Martinéz, M. C. & Pérez, J. E. La vid en el occidente del Principado de Asturias. Descripción de las variedades” Ed. Departamento de Publicaciones del CSIC, Madrid
1999
Chomé, P., Sotés, V., Benayas, F., Cayuela, M., Hernández, M.,Cabello, F. Ortiz, J. M., Rodríguez-Torres, I. & Chávez, J.
VariedadesdeVidOccidental;RegistrodeVariedadesComerciales. Ed. Ministerio de Agricultura
2003
Cabello,F.;Rodríguez-Torres,I.;Muñoz-Organero,G.;Rubio,C.;Benito,A. & García-Beneytez S.
La Colección de Variedades de Vid de “El Encín”. Un recorrido por la Historia de la Ampelografía Ed. Comunidad de Madrid
2003
LivroCastasParte1Ingles.indd 61 29-07-2011 12:03:01
tab_4tab_5_1tab_5_2tab_5_3
Recommended