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{ 50 } VINE ATLAS OF SPAIN AND PORTUGAL

case sulphur wine is lawful”], thereby regulating the use of sulphur in wine in limited quantities, and gave details ofprecisetechnicalspecifications.Thepreservativeeffectof sulphur is the ingredient to which single variety wines owe their characteristic aroma. It replaced the traditional methods of preparing wine in those days using chemical preservatives (some of which were poisonous), leather vessels, enormous admixtures of honey, or concentrating must by evaporation (Diócorides and Galeno, as cited by Bassermann, 1907: 318), smoking in special chambers (the Roman fuminarium), addition of alcohol, resin (retsina) and Apotheka (Greek, Columella, I, 6, 29), all of which, as did the famous artemisia absinthium, completely adulterated the taste.

With the use of sulphur one could recognise the qualitywinevarietiesintoday’ssenseofthetermandthusthe modern “Vitis vinifera gene pool” began to distinguish itself in terms of taste to a greater degree.

Of particular importance for the development of viniculture were the Benedictine and the Cistercian Monks, as well as certain bishops in larger cities. The selection of grapevine varieties gave birth to the great Central European varieties such as Spätburgunder, Riesling, Cabernet and Traminer.The wine had a sacred

purpose as communion wine and has been dignifiedaccordingly in literature and art.

Because a large part of the population was made up of Mozarabs and Jews, wine growing survived and so, despite the Arab occupation, did the autochtonous grapevine varieties.Even at that time Alonso de Herrera (1513) spoke of the Torrentés variety.

Rumour had it that the Pedro Ximénez variety was brought here from Germany by a German called Peter Siemens in the 16th century, which must have been a misunderstanding because the heliothermic requirements of this variety could hardly have existed at latitude 48° N.

In Portugal, it was late in the 12th century that after establishing 120 convents the Cistercians essentially became the keepers of agricultural knowledge but also provided training on how to grow wine to the faithful congregations. Through them the first quality varietieswere selected and intentionally propagated. The Alcobaça Convent is one such example.

Initially, however, Portugal did not participate in this huge international revival by reason of the Islamic occupation. Since viniculture did indeed survive, it would appear that although the new rulers did not prohibit wine growing, they did not permit trade in wine, still less

Table 4 – Influence of trade on the Portuguese V. vinifera gene pool

Historical Period Period Ethnic Group Dynasty Provenance Vitis vinifera Variety

Chalcolithic 3000-2000 BC Iberian Africa Selected Vitis silv.Copper Age 3000-2000 BC Iberian Africa Selected Vitis silv.Bronze Age I 2000 BC Tartessian Asia Minor Selected Vitis silv.Bronze Age II 1200 BC Phoenician Asia Minor MuscatelBronze Age III 900 BC Greeks North/East Mediterranean MalvasiaIron Age 600 BC Celts Indo-Germanic Alóborica, BitúricaIron Age 600 BC Carthaginian Africa Possible African varietiesIron Age 400 BC Lusitanian Iberia Selected Vitis silv.Antiquity 200 BC Roman Italy Trebbiano, Alba Antiquity AD 300 Swabian Germany UnknownLate Antiquity AD 500 Visigoth Danube/Black Sea Pontic varieties?Middle Ages AD 700 Arab Africa Table grapesMiddle Ages AD 750 Umayyad Asia Minor Table grapesMiddle Ages AD 1100 Almohavid Sahara Tolerated under occupationMiddle Ages AD 1200 Almohad Central Morocco Tolerated under occupationMiddle Ages AD 1150 1st Portuguese Dynasty Asturia Selected Vitis silv.Middle Ages AD 1383 2nd Portuguese Dynasty Lisbon Some Portuguese varietiesRenaissance AD 1580 Hapsburg Spain Aragonez, Jaen, etc.Post Renaissance AD 1640 3rd Portuguese Dynasty. Lisbon Cultivated autochthonous V. v.Contemporary AD 1910 Portuguese Republic Lisbon French varieties

LivroCastasParte1Ingles.indd 50 29-07-2011 12:02:06

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Table 5.1 – First Descriptions of Grapevine Varieties on the Iberian Peninsula

Name Dates Title Date

Lucius Junius Moderatus Columella AD 4-ca. 70 (Cadiz)

Los doce libros de Agricultura (vid: livro 2) (Translated by J. M. Álvarez de Sotomayor )

1979 Madrid

Ibn al Awam (Abu Zacaria Aben Mohamed Ahmed ebn el Awam)

1150(?)-? (Andalusia)

Agricultura Nabatheeana(Kitan al-Felahah).– Invação Almohada (Josef Antonio Banqueri Edition)

1802 Madrid

Ibn al Baitahar (Abu Muhammad Abdallah Ibn Ahmad Ibn al-Baitar Dhiya al-Din al-Malaqi)

1188-1248 (Malaga)

Kitabal-Jamifial-Adwiyaal-Mufrada 1758 Translation into Latin

Pedro de Crescentis 1230-1321 Memória (35 varieties)

Table 5.2 – Descriptions of Portuguese Grapevine Varieties


Rui Fernandes Descrição do terreno duas léguas em roda da cidade de Lamego

1532

Vincenzo Alarte Agriculturadasvinhas,LisboaofficinaRealDeslandesiana

1712

José Veríssimo Alvares da Silva 1744-1811 Memoria sobre a cultura das vinhas e sobre os vinhos. Memorias da Agricultura, T. 1 (2). Real Academia das Sciencias de Lisboa

1788

Constantino António Botelho de Lacerda Lobo

1754-1820-22 Memoria sobre a cultura das vinhas em Portugal. Mem. Economicas,T. II. – Idem, Real Academia das Sciencias de Lisboa

1790

Francisco Pereira Rebello da Fonseca ?-1813 Memoria sobre a cultura das vinhas, e manufacturas do vinho. Memorias da Agricultura, T. II (1). Real Academia das Sciencias de Lisboa

1791

Vicente Correia Seabra Silva e Telles 1764-1804 Memoria sobre a cultura das videiras e a manufactura dos vinhos. Mem. de Agricultura, T. II (2). Imprensa Nacional, Lisboa

1791

António Lobo de Barboza Ferreira Teixeira Gyrão (Visc.Vila Romão)

Tratado Teorico e Pratico da Agricultura das vinhas Lisboa, Impresa Nacional

1822

Conde Odart Ampelographie Universelle, Paris à la Librairie Agricole

1841

António Augusto de Aguiar 1838-1887 MemoriasobreosProcessosdeVinificação. Imprensa Nacional

1867

João Ignacio Ferreira Lappa 1823-1893 Technologia Rural. Typog. da Real Academia das Sciencias deLisboa

1874

Visconde de Vila Maior 1809-1884 Manual de Viticultura Prática. Coimbra, Imprensa da Universidade

1875

José Taveira de Carvalho Menezes Apontamentos para o estudo da Ampelographia Portugueza. Boletim da Direcção Geral de Agricultura. Imprensa Nacional. Lisboa

1900

Cincinnato da Costa 1867-1930 OPortugalVitivinícola,estudossobreaAmpelografiae o valor enológico das principais castas de Portugal.Imprensa Nacional. Lisboa

1900

João Marques de Carvalho EstudosAmpelograficos.BoletimD.G.Agric. Imprensa Nacional. Lisboa

1912

Paul Truel Notes sur les cépages de Portugal et leur synonymie. Progrès Agricole et Viticole. Montpellier

1985

J. C. D. de Castro Reis “Cadastro vitícola” Project. IGEf & IVV. 1986


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Table 5.3 – Descriptions of Spanish Grapevine Varieties (after Felix Cabello)


Alonso de Herreira 1470-1539 Agricultura General (15 castas) 1513/1645Valcarcel, J. A. 1720-1799 Agricultura Generaly Gobierno de la Casa de Campo 1765-1795Simón de Rojas Clemente y Rubio 1777-1827 Ensayo sobre las variedades de la vid comun que

vegetan en Andalucía1807

Antonio Casares y Rodrigo 1812-1888 Observaciones sobre el Cultivo de la Vid en Galicia 1843Eduardo Abela y Sáinz de Andino 1836-1908 El libro del viticultor (artigo: clasificación

y sinonímia de las vides)1885

Buenaventura Castellet de Terrasa 1826-1890 Viticultura y Enología o trabajo sobre el cultivo de la vid y los vinos de España (capítulo II. Cepas preferibiles para la obtención de Buenos Vinos) (Levante)

1869

Victor Cruz Manso de Zúñiga y Enrile 1855-1934 Memoria Anual de la Estación Enológica de Haro 1905Nicolás García de los Salmones, N. Dorronsoro, L. & Gros, J.

1865-1942 Las variedades de vid propias de cada comarca española y sus vinos. Estudio general de conjunto – Congreso Nacional de Viticultura (Pamplona julio de 1912) pg. 507-534

1914

Rafael Janini Janini 1866-1948 Resumes de Trabajos realizado en la Estacion Enológica de Requena (Valencia)

1922

Juan Marcilla Arrazola 1886-1950 ViticulturayEnologíaEspañolas;TomoI 1954Gonzalo Fernández de Boabdilla 1896-1987 Viníferas Jerezanas y de Andalucía 1956Hidalgo, L., Rodríguez Candela, M., Serrano, L.

1918-2004 Catastro Vitícola y Vinícola Ed. Ministerio de Agricultura, Madrid

1976

Larrea Redondo, A. 1913- Vides de La Rioja Ed. MAPA, Logroño. 1978Borrego,J.;Gallego,J.F.+;Gómez,J.L.;Martínez,M.I.&Serrano,L.

1948-2009 + Descripcionesampelográficasnacionales. Ed. Comunidad de Madrid

1990

García de Luján, A., Puertas, B. & Lara M.

Variedades de Vid en Andalucía 1990

Lezcano, J. F. Manual de Ampelografía” Ed. Consejo Regulador de la Denominación de Origen Cigales

1991

Hidalgo, L. 1918-2004 Tratado de Viticultura. Madrid. Ediciones Mundi-Prensa.

1993

Chirivella, C., Méndez, J. V., Haba, M. Ecología vitícola. Aptitudes enológicas. Ed. Conselleríad’Agricultura,PescayAlimentació.Generalitat Valenciana. Valencia

1995

Peñín,J.;Cervera,A.;Cabello,F.;Díez,R. & Peñín, P.

Cepas del Mundo”Ed. PI & ERRE EDICIONES 1997

Freijanes, J. & Alonso, M. P. Videiras galegas. Catálogo de variedades autóctonas. Ed. Xunta de Galicia. Santiago de Compostela

1997

Martinéz, M. C. & Pérez, J. E. La vid en el occidente del Principado de Asturias. Descripción de las variedades” Ed. Departamento de Publicaciones del CSIC, Madrid

1999

Chomé, P., Sotés, V., Benayas, F., Cayuela, M., Hernández, M.,Cabello, F. Ortiz, J. M., Rodríguez-Torres, I. & Chávez, J.

VariedadesdeVidOccidental;RegistrodeVariedadesComerciales. Ed. Ministerio de Agricultura

2003

Cabello,F.;Rodríguez-Torres,I.;Muñoz-Organero,G.;Rubio,C.;Benito,A. & García-Beneytez S.

La Colección de Variedades de Vid de “El Encín”. Un recorrido por la Historia de la Ampelografía Ed. Comunidad de Madrid

2003


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Table 4 – Influence of trade on the Portuguese V. vinifera ...vinetowinecircle.com › tabelas › en_cap1_tab04_05.pdfCincinnato da Costa 1867-1930 O Portugal Vitivinícola, estudos