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PLAN YOUR TRIP
Welcome to Argentina ... 2
Map .................................. 4
20 Top Experiences ....... 6
Need to Know ................. 16
If You Like... ..................... 18
Month by Month ............. 21
Itineraries ........................ 24
Argentina Outdoors ....... 29Travel with Children ...... 34
Regions at a Glance ....... 36
YOUR PLANNING TOOL KIT
Photos, itineraries, lists and suggestions
to help you put together your perfect trip
UNDERSTAND ARGENTINA
Argentina Today ............. 556
History ............................. 558
Life in Argentina ............. 568
Argentine Cuisine ........... 570
The Sounds of Argentina 576
Literature & Cinema ...... 578The Natural World .......... 580
USAARGENTINA
population pe
≈15people
“ All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. So go!”TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET
PAGE
2
PAGE
555
GET MORE FROM YOUR TRIP
Learn about the big picture, so you
can make sense of what you see
I S B N 9 7 8 - 1 - 7 4 2 2 0 - 0 1 5 - 6
9 7 8 1 74 2 2 0 0 15 6
99625
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
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THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY
Sandra Bao,
Gregor Clark, Carolyn McCarthy,
Andy Symington, Lucas Vidgen
p470
p267
Sierras
p204Andean Northwest
p299the Central Andes
Tierra del Fuego
p106the Atlantic CoastThe Pampas &
p495
Uruguay
p378Patagonia
p336the Lake District
Bariloche &
Mendoza &
the CentralCórdoba &
p140Northeast ArgentinaIguazú Falls &Salta & the
p42Buenos Aires
YOUR COMPLETE DESTINATION GUIDE
In-depth reviews, detailed listings
and insider tips
SURVIVALGUIDE
Directory A–Z ................. 588
Transportation ............... 600
Language ........................ 606
Index ................................ 620
Map Legend .................... 630
VITAL PRACTICAL INFORMATION TO
HELP YOU HAVE A SMOOTH TRIP
ON THE
ROAD
PAGE
40
PAGE
587
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Look out for these icons:
Our author’s toprecommendation
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required
BUENOS AIRES . . . . . . 42San Isidro . . . . . . . . . . . . . .103
Tigre & the Delta . . . . . . . .103
THE PAMPAS &THE ATLANTICCOAST . . . . . . . . . . . . 106La Plata . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .108Luján . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110San Antonio de Areco . . . . 112
Tandil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 115Sierra de la Ventana . . . . .120Parque ProvincialErnesto Tornquist . . . . . . . . 121Santa Rosa . . . . . . . . . . . . . 121Reserva ProvincialParque Luro. . . . . . . . . . . . .123Parque NacionalLihué Calel . . . . . . . . . . . . . .124
ATLANTIC COAST . . . . . . . . 124San Clemente del Tuyú . . .125Pinamar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .125Villa Gesell . . . . . . . . . . . . . .127Mar del Plata . . . . . . . . . . . . 128Necochea . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .136Bahía Blanca . . . . . . . . . . . . 137
IGUAZÚ FALLS &
THE NORTHEAST . . . 140Rosario . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 141Santa Fe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .150Cayastá . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .154Paraná . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .154Corrientes . . . . . . . . . . . . . .158Mercedes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .162Concepción . . . . . . . . . . . . .168
Colón . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 170Parque Nacional
El Palmar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 171Concordia . . . . . . . . . . . . . .172Paso de los Libres . . . . . . . 173Posadas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175San Ignacio . . . . . . . . . . . . .179
IGUAZÚ FALLS . . . . . . . . . . 185Parque Nacional Iguazú . .186Parque NacionalDo Iguaçu (Brazil) . . . . . . .188Puerto Iguazú . . . . . . . . . . .190Foz do Iguaçu (Brazil) . . . .194
THE GRAN CHACO . . . . . . . 197Resistencia . . . . . . . . . . . . . 197Parque Nacional Chaco. . .201Roque Sáenz Peña . . . . . . .201
SALTA & THE ANDEAN
NORTHWEST . . . . . . 204Jujuy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 205Quebradade Humahuaca . . . . . . . . . . 212La Quiaca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .221Yavi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 222Salta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 222Tren a las Nubes . . . . . . . . 234San Antoniode los Cobres . . . . . . . . . . 235Salinas Grandes . . . . . . . . 235Valles Calchaquíes . . . . . . 236Cafayate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 240Quebrada de Cafayate . . 244Tucumán . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 245Tafí del Valle . . . . . . . . . . . 250Santiago del Estero . . . . . 253
CATAMARCA & LA RIOJA . 256Catamarca . . . . . . . . . . . . . 256
Belén . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 259La Rioja . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 260Chilecito . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 264Parque NacionalTalampaya . . . . . . . . . . . . . 266
CÓRDOBA &THE CENTRALSIERRAS . . . . . . . . . .267CÓRDOBA . . . . . . . . . . . . . .269
THE CENTRAL SIERRAS . . 281Cosquín . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .281La Falda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 283La Cumbre . . . . . . . . . . . . . 284Jesús María . . . . . . . . . . . . 285Alta Gracia . . . . . . . . . . . . . 286La Cumbrecita . . . . . . . . . 290
Parque NacionalQuebrada del Condorito . .291Mina Clavero . . . . . . . . . . . .291Merlo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 292San Luis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 294Parque NacionalSierra de las Quijadas . . . 296Valle de las SierrasPuntanas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 296
Valle de Conlara . . . . . . . . 298
MENDOZA &THE CENTRALANDES . . . . . . . . . . . .299Mendoza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .301Uspallata . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 317Los Penitentes . . . . . . . . . .319
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On the Road
See the Index for a full list of destinations covered in this book.
Parque ProvincialAconcagua . . . . . . . . . . . . . 320
Las Cuevas &Cristo Redentor . . . . . . . . 322San Rafael . . . . . . . . . . . . . 322Malargüe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 325Las Leñas. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 326San Juan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 328Valle de Calingasta. . . . . . 330San José de Jáchal . . . . . 333Rodeo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 333
San Agustínde Valle Fértil . . . . . . . . . . 333Parque ProvincialIschigualasto . . . . . . . . . . . 335
BARILOCHE & THELAKE DISTRICT . . . . 336Neuquén . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 338Zapala. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 340
Parque NacionalLaguna Blanca . . . . . . . . . . 341Copahue . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .341Caviahue . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 342Chos Malal . . . . . . . . . . . . . 342Aluminé . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 345Villa Pehuenia . . . . . . . . . . 346Junín de los Andes . . . . . . 346
Parque Nacional Lanín . . 349San Martín de los Andes . .351Cerro Chapelco . . . . . . . . . .357Villa Traful . . . . . . . . . . . . . .357Villa la Angostura . . . . . . . 358Bariloche . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 360Parque NacionalNahuel Huapi . . . . . . . . . . 368El Bolsón . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 371
PATAGONIA . . . . . . . . 378Viedma . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 379
Puerto Madryn . . . . . . . . . 383Reserva FaunísticaPenínsula Valdés . . . . . . . 389Trelew . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 395Gaiman . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 399Camarones . . . . . . . . . . . . .401Cabo Dos Bahías . . . . . . . 402Comodoro Rivadavia . . . . 402
Puerto Deseado . . . . . . . . 405Reserva Natural Ría Deseado& Parque InterjurisdiccionalMarino Isla Pingüino . . . . . 407Puerto San Julián . . . . . . . 408Parque NacionalMonte León . . . . . . . . . . . . .410Río Gallegos . . . . . . . . . . . .410
THE FALKLAND ISLANDS/ISLAS MALVINAS . . . . . . . . 413Esquel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .416Trevelin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 420Parque NacionalLos Alerces . . . . . . . . . . . . 422Río Mayo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 424Perito Moreno . . . . . . . . . . 425Los Antiguos . . . . . . . . . . . 426Cueva de las Manos . . . . . 427
Bajo Caracoles . . . . . . . . . 427Parque NacionalPerito Moreno . . . . . . . . . . 428El Chaltén . . . . . . . . . . . . . 429Parque NacionalLos Glaciares (North) . . . 434El Calafate . . . . . . . . . . . . . 440Parque NacionalLos Glaciares (South) . . . 446
CHILEAN PATAGONIA . . . 450Punta Arenas . . . . . . . . . . 450
Puerto Natales . . . . . . . . . 456Parque NacionalBernardo O’Higgins . . . . . 462Parque NacionalTorres del Paine . . . . . . . . 462
TIERRA DEL FUEGO . .470Ushuaia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 471Parque Nacional
Tierra del Fuego . . . . . . . . 482Puerto Williams (Chile) . . 488Tolhuin &Lago Fagnano . . . . . . . . . . 490Río Grande. . . . . . . . . . . . . 490Porvenir (Chile) . . . . . . . . 493
URUGUAY . . . . . . . . . 495MONTEVIDEO . . . . . . . . . . 497
Coloniadel Sacramento . . . . . . . . 516Carmelo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 521Mercedes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 522Paysandú . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 523Salto . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 526Tacuarembó . . . . . . . . . . . 528Valle Edén . . . . . . . . . . . . . 528Piriápolis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 529Punta del Este . . . . . . . . . . 532La Paloma . . . . . . . . . . . . . 540La Pedrera . . . . . . . . . . . . . 542Cabo Polonio . . . . . . . . . . . 543Laguna de Castillos . . . . . 544Punta del Diablo . . . . . . . . 545Parque NacionalSanta Teresa . . . . . . . . . . . 546
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P A C I F I C
O C E A N
Río S al a do
R í o
d e l a
P l a t a
R í
o
A p a
R í o P i l c o
m a y o
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R í o P a r a gua y
R í o P a n a n á
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S U N C I Ó N
A n
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t a m a r c a
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6 9 º W
6 4 º W
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P a r q u e P r o v i n c i a l
A c o n c a g u a
C ò r d o b a
C o r d i l l e r a d e l o s A n d e s
S i e r r a d e
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3 3 º S
3 3 º S
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b a
l s e
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L a g u n a
M a r
C h i q u i t a
T r o p i c o f C a p r i c o r n
L a P a m p a
S a l i n a s d e
A m b a r g a s t a
S a l i n a s d e
G r a n d e s
C a l c h a q ú i e s
V a l l e s
E s t e r o s
d e l I b e r á
Q u e b r a d a d e
H u m a h u a c a
B R A Z I L
B O L I V I A
C H I L E
U R U G U A Y
P A R A G U A Y
P a r q u e N a c i o n a l
R í o P i l c o m a y o
P a r q u e
N a c i o n a l
C h a c o
R e s e r v a P r o v i n c i a l
E s t e r o s d e l I b e r á
P a r q u e N a c i o n a l
E l P a l m a r
P a r q u e
N a c i o n a l
L i h u é C a l e l
P a r q u e
N a c i o n a l
I g u a z ú
P a r q u e P r o v i n c i a l
I s c h i g u a l a s t o
C e r r o
M e r c e d a r i o
( 6 7 7 0 m )
C e r r o
T u p u n g a t o
( 6 6 5 0 m )
C e r r o
A c o n c a
g u a
( 6 9 6 2 m
)
I g u a z ú F a l l s
B u e n o s A i r e s
M e n d o z a C
ó r d o b a
C o l o n i a d e l S a c r a m e n t o ,
U
r u g u a y
C e r r o A c o n c a g u a
R e s e r v a
P r o v i n c i a l E s t e r o s
d e l I b e r á
Q u e b r a d a d e
H u m a h u a c a
S a l t a
W i t n e s
s t h e w o r l d ' s m o s t
a w e s o m
e w a t e r f a l l s ( p 1 8 5 )
T a s t e A r g e n t i n a ' s f i n e s t
b o u t i q u e w i n e s ( p 3 0 1 )
T h u m p t o t h i s b e a u t i f u l c i t y ' s
n i g h t l i f e b e a t s (
p 2 6 9 )
C o l o n i a l j e w e l ( p 5 1 6 )
C l i m b S o u t h A m e r i c a '
s
h i g h e s t p e a k ( p 3 2 0 )
B i r d s a n d
n a t u r e g a l o r e ( p 1 6 3 )
D r i v e t h r o u g h s p e c t a c u l a r ,
c o l o r f u l m o u n t a i n s ( p 2 1 2 )
S t r o l l B A ' s
c o s m o p o l i t a n
s t r e e t s ( p 4 2 )
E x p l o r e A r g e n t i n a ' s m o s t
c o l o n i a l c i t y
( p 2 2 2 )
T o p E x p
e r i e n c e s ›
› A
r g e n t i n
a & U r u g u a y
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A T L A N T I C
O C E A N
B e a g
l e
C h a n n e l
R í o
C h
u b
u t
R í
o N e g
r o
P u n
t a
A r e n a s
P o r v e n
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i a
P u e r t o
N a
t a l e s
C a
l e t a O l i v i a
T r e
l e w
F i t z R o y
B a
h í a B l a n c a
B a r i l o c h e
E s q u e
l
E l B o
l s ó n
N e c o c h e a
Z a p a l a
P u e r t o
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b e r n a
d o r
G r e g o r e s
P e r i
t o
M o r
e n o
P u e r t o
D e s e a
d o
C o m o
d o r o
R i v a
d a v
i a
P u e r t o
M o n
t t
S a n
M a r t í n
d e
l o s
A n d e s
S a n
A n
t o n
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O e s t e
P u e r t o
M a
d r y n
E l C a
l a f a t e
S a n
t a C r u z
S a n
J u l i á n
E l C h a
l t é n
N e u q u
é n
R í o G a
l l e g o s
R a w s o n
V i e d m a
R í o G r a n
d e
S t a n
l e y
P a r q u e
N a c i o n a l
L a n í n
P a r q u e N a c i o n a l
L o s G
l a c i a r e s
P a r q u e N a c i o n a l
L a g o P u e l o
P a r q u e N a
c i o n a l
N a h u e l H a
u p i
P a r q u
e F a u n í s t i c a
P e n í n s u l a V a l d é s
R e s e r v a P r o v
i n c i a l
P u n t a T o m b o
P a r q u e
N a c i o n a l
T i e r r a
d e l F u e g o
P a r q u e
L o s A l e r c e s
N a c i o n a l
P a r q u e
N a c i o n a l
T o r r e s d e l
P a i n e
3 8 º S
4 3 º S
4 8 º S
5 3 º S
5 3 º S
4 8 º S
4 3 º S
3 8 º S
4 4 º W
4 9 º W
5 4 º W
5 9 º W
6 4 º W
6 9 º W
74º W
79ºW
8 4 º W
3 9 º W
L a g o
C o
l h u
é
H u a p
i
L a
g o
M u s t e r s
I s l a G r a n d e d e
T i e r r a d e l F u e g o I s
l a d e l o s E s t a d o s
( S t a t e n I s l a n d )
P e n í n s u l a
V a l d é s
C a b o d e H o r n o s
( C a p e H o r n )
( I s l a s M a l v i n a s )
F A L K L A N D I S L A N D S
P e r i t o M o r e n o G l a
c i e r
E l C h a l t é n
P e n í n s u l a V a l d é s
U s h u a i a
B a r i l o c h e
M a r d e l P l a
t a
S e e ( a n d h e a r ! ) t h i s g
l a c i e r
c a l v i n g ( p 4 4 6 )
H i k e t h e f a m o u s F i t z R o y
R a n g e ( p 4 2 9 )
S p y o n e l e p h a n t s e a l s ,
w h a l e s a n d p e n g u i n s ( p 3 8 9 )
T r a v e l t o t h e w o
r l d ' s
s o u t h e r n m o s t c i t y
( p 4 7 1 )
S u n - w o r s h i p a t t h i s b e a c h
r e s o r t ( p 1 2 8
)
S k i , h i k e a n d e a t c h o c o l a t e
( p 3 6 0 )
0 0
2 5 0 m i l e s
4 0 0 k m
E L E V A T
I O N
2 0 0 0 m
3 0 0 0 m
4 0 0 0 m
5 0 0 0 m
1 0 0 0 m
6 0 0 m
2 0 0 m
0
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OUR WRITERS
OUR STORY A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense ofadventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler neededfor the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland toAustralia. It took several months, and at the end – broke butinspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and staplingtogether their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap.Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.
Today, Lonely Planet has offi ces in Melbourne, London andOakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebookshould do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.
Sandra Bao Coordinating author; Buenos Aires; The Pampas & the Atlantic Coast Sandra is aChinese-American born in Argentina, and this fact has confused many Chinese,Americans and Argentines she’s met. Perpetually peripatetic, she’s traveled toaround 60 countries and has lived on three continents, but now calls the beauti-
ful Pacific Northwest home. Sandra is proud to be a porteña and regularly re-turns to Argentina to investigate what the wildly fluctuating peso – which keepsher fully employed as a guidebook researcher – is doing. As well as writing many of the chapters ofthis book, over the last decade Sandra has contributed to a couple of dozen Lonely Planet titles onfour continents.
Gregor Clark Uruguay Over the past 20 years, Gregor has traveled South America from tip totail, developing a special fondness for Uruguay while researching the last threeeditions of this book. Favorite memories this time around include surveyingUruguay’s Atlantic coast from atop Sierra de las Ánimas, riding horses through
the rocky landscape of Sierra de Rocha and searching nationwide for the perfectchivito. He has contributed to a dozen other Lonely Planet titles, including Brazil and South America on a Shoestring.
Carolyn McCarthy Patagonia, Tierra del Fuego Author Carolyn McCarthy traveled overland over5000km in winter to make this trip, visiting hundreds of attractions and threeauto mechanics along the way. When not writing about her favorite destinationof Patagonia, she tries to visit tropical nations. In the last seven years she hascontributed to over a dozen Lonely Planet titles. She has also written for Nation-al Geographic, Outside and Lonely Planet Magazine, among other publications.
You can follow her Americas blog at www.carolynswildblueyonder.blogspot.com.
Read more about Gregor at:lonelyplanet.com/members/gregorclark
Read more about Sandra at:lonelyplanet.com/members/sandrabao
Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason-
able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty aboutthe accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi-
mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.
Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty LtdABN 36 005 607 983
8th edition – August 2012
ISBN 978 1 74220 015 6
© Lonely Planet 2012 Photographs © as indicated 2012
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
Printed in China
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic,mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without thewritten permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patentand Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, suchas retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.
Bestselling guide to Argentina – source: Nielsen BookScan, Australia, UK and USA, May 2011 to April 2012
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Andy Symington Iguazú Falls & the Northeast; Salta & the Andean Northwest Andy’s relationshipwith Argentina is a story of four generations: his grandmother lived here in the1920s, and her father had a mate plantation in Corrientes province. Andy firstvisited the country with his own father, the start of a long love affair that hasinvolved many trips all around the continent, a spell living and working in BuenosAires, and a deep-rooted respect for provincial Argentina. Andy hails from Aus-
tralia, lives in northern Spain, and has contributed to many Lonely Planet guidebooks.
Lucas Vidgen Córdoba & the Central Sierras; Mendoza & the Central Andes;Bariloche & the Lake District Lucas first visited Argentina in 2001, and wascaptivated by the country’s wide open spaces and cosmopolitan cities. The hugeamounts of quality beef and wine didn’t go unnoticed, either. Lucas has contrib-uted to a variety of Latin American Lonely Planet titles including various editionsof the Argentina and South America books. He currently lives in Quetzaltenango,
Guatemala where he publishes – and occasionally works on – the city’s leading nightlife and culturemagazine, XelaWho (www.xelawho.com).
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Itiner-aries
Whether you’ve got six days or
60, these itineraries provide a
starting point for the trip of a
lifetime. Want more inspiration? Head online to lonelyplanet.
com/thorntree to chat with other
travelers.
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MONTEVIDEOPunta del Este
Colonia del
Sacramento
La Plata
Tigre
San Antonio
de Areco
BUENOS AIRES
Tandil
Mar del
Plata
Pinamar
Villa Gesell
URUGUAY
R í o
d e l a
P l a t a
ATLA NTIC
OC EAN
É
#f
É É
É
É
É
É
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É
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One Week
A Week Around Buenos Aires
Seen the capital city from top to bottom and wondering what else to do? Well, if you
like water, Tigre is a great nearby choice – a bustling delta and popular porteño
(resident of Buenos Aires) getaway. And not far away is peaceful San Antonio de Areco with a history of gaucho culture and surrounded by estancias – or tidy La
Plata , with its huge cathedral. Perhaps you’d prefer the beach? Pinamar and Villa Gesell make a great summer week-
end trip, as does Mar del Plata – the biggest Argentine beach destination of them all. Or
head inland to Tandil, a pretty town near scenic hills and a large recreational reservoir.
And then there’s Uruguay – just a (relatively) short boat ride away. Colonia del Sacra-mento is truly charming, filled with cobbled streets and atmospheric colonial buildings.
Montevideo is kind of like BA’s little sister – smaller and less frantic, but still off ering big
city delights like a beautiful theater, historic downtown and eclectic architecture. And if
you really want to party, take your bikini to Punta del Este – a magnet for celebrities, rich
porteños and whoever else just wants to have a good time.
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BOLIVIA
BRAZILCHILE
#÷Parque
Nacional
Iguazú
#÷
#÷#•
#÷Reserva FaunísticaPenínsula V aldés
#•Bariloche
Parque N acionalLos Glaciares
Parque N acionalTorres del Paine
Ushuaia
El Calafate
ElChaltén
BUENOSAIRES
Mendoza
Córdoba
Salta
ATLA N TIC
OCE A N
P ACIFIC
OC EAN
PARAGUAY
URUGUAY
FALKLAND ISLANDS(Islas Malvinas)
LakeDistrict
É
É É
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One Month
Unmissable Argentina
Argentina is a huge country – the world’s eighth largest – and experiencing all its
highlights thoroughly will require at least a month, plus a lot of airplane flights. If
you want to see both the north and south, plan your trip accordingly: Patagonia is
best in January and February, but this is when the northern deserts are at their hot-
test (doing both might be best in spring or fall). Tailor the following destinations to your
tastes, spending more or less time where you want it.
Take a few days to explore the wonders of Buenos Aires, with its fascinating neighbor-
hoods and big-city sights. If it’s the right season, head south for wildlife viewing at ReservaFaunística Península Valdés – the whales, elephant seals and penguins are especially
popular. From here hop a flight to Ushuaia , the southernmost city in the world and prime jumping-off point to Antarctica (add another two weeks and minimum US$5000 for this
trip!).
Now you’ll head north (your only choice) to El Calafate, where the stunning PeritoMoreno Glacier (in Parque Nacional Los Glaciares) is one of the world’s most unique
sights. If you love the outdoors, cross the border to Chile’s Parque Nacional Torres delPaine, an awe-inspiring cluster of mountains boasting some of earth’s most beautiful land-
scapes. Back in Argentina is El Chaltén, another world-class climbing, trekking and camp-
ing destination.
Further up the spine of the Andes is Argentina’s Lake District , where a chocolate stop
in Bariloche is a must. Gorgeous scenery, outdoor activities and lovely nearby towns caneasily add days to your itinerary. Your next destination is now Mendoza , Argentina’s wine
mecca, which also off ers great outdoor adventures and mind-blowing Andean scenery. A 10-
hour bus ride lands you in Córdoba , the country’s second-largest city with amazing coloni-
al architecture and cutting-edge culture. From here it’s a flight north to pretty Salta , where
you can explore colorful canyons, charming villages and cacti-dotted desert panoramas.
Pack up your bags again and head east to Parque Nacional Iguazú, where the world’s
most massive falls will simply astound you – they’re nearly 3km long and made up of 200
separate waterfalls. Now fl y back to Buenos Aires, do what you missed doing the first time
around (or do the stuff you loved again) and party till your plane leaves.
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» (above) Tigre (p103)
» (left) Glaciar Perito Moreno (p446)
A N G E L T E R R Y / A L A MY ©
MI C H A E L T A Y L O R /
L O NE L Y P L A NE T I MA G E S ©
P L A N Y O U R T R I P I T I N
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BOLIVIA
BRAZILCHILE
Puerto Madryn
Malargüe
Chos Malal
El Calafate
Ushuaia
Mendoza
Puerto Natales
#÷ ParqueN acionalIguazú
##•
#÷Reserva FaunísticaPenínsula Valdés
Bariloche
ElChaltén
ATL A NTIC
OC E AN
PACI F I C
OCEA N
PARAGUAY
URUGUAY
Lak eDistrict
ElBolsón
#•VillaTraful
#÷Parque N acionalTierra del Fuego
Fitz Roy Area
#•
#•
#•
San Joséde Jáchal
VallesCalchaquíes
#•
#•
Cafayate
La Quiaca
Parque N acional N ahuel Huapi
Parque N acional Lanín
Cueva delasManos
Beag l e Channe l
RíoGallegos
#•
#•CaboVirgenes
LosAntiguos
#÷Parque NacionalTorres del Pai e
É
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n É
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Patagonian Passage
Ruta Nacional 40
Two to Three Weeks
Patagonian Passage
Begin in Ushuaia , in Tierra del Fue-
go, where you can kayak or hop on
a boat to cruise around the Beagle
Channel. Nearby Parque NacionalTierra del Fuego off ers a few end-of-the-
world hikes (literally).
Now fl y to El Calafate, in Patagonia, and
lay your eyes on the spectacular and unfor-
gettable Perito Moreno Glacier in Parque
Nacional Los Glaciares. You’ll also wantto bus down to Puerto Natales and hike
in the famous Parque Nacional Torres delPaine – you’ll need at least four to six days
here to appreciate it fully. Head north again
to El Chaltén for world-class hiking and
camping in the Fitz Roy Range.
With an extra week, fl y to the Lake Dis- trict and Bariloche, where you can hike (or
fish, or raft, or bike) for days on end in the
gorgeous national parks of Nahuel Huapi and Lanín. If you have an extra day or two,
take a day trip to the hippie enclave of ElBolsón, or to the cute village of Villa Traful.
Finally, stop in Puerto Madryn to see
the whales, elephant seals and penguins at
Reserva Faunística Península Valdés –
just make sure they’re in season.
One Month
Ruta Nacional 40
Argentina’s quintessential road trip,
RN 40 travels the length of Argen-
tina (more than 5000km) and through
some of the country’s remotest regions.
Start in La Quiaca , at the border with
Bolivia. Heading south, you’ll pass through
the wildly scenic villages of Valles Cal-chaquíes. Then it’s a pause at lovely Ca- fayate, before passing traditional San José
de Jáchal. Take a breather in Mendoza todrink wine, then explore the volcanic land-
scapes around Malargüe.
Continue south, stopping to check out
the lagoons and hot springs around ChosMalal. Detour to the national parks of
Lanín and Nahuel Huapi for epic hiking
before hitting Bariloche. Further on, con-
sider sidetracking to Los Antiguos if it’s
cherry season, and stop at Cueva de las
Manos for indigenous art. Take a side trip to El Chaltén for hiking,
then drive to El Calafate and see the Perito
Moreno Glacier. Cross the border to Chile
and explore stunning Parque NacionalTorres del Paine before doglegging west to
Río Gallegos, where RN 40 ends nearby at
Cabo Virgenes. Now consider continuing
to Ushuaia on RN 3; it’s as far south as any
highway in the world goes.
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Salta
Tilcara
Cachi
Quebrada
de Cafayate
Molinos
Cafayate
Tafí del Valle Tucumán
CórdobaSan Juan
Mendoza
San Rafael
Reserva ProvincialEsteros del Ibera
ParqueNacional
Iguazú
Parque NacionalTalampaya
Parque ProvincialIschigualasto
Barreal
Rodeo, Huaco& San José de
Jáchal
CerroAconcagua
#•Cañon de Atuel
CHILE
PARAGUAY
BRAZIL
URUGUAY
PACIF IC
OCEAN
VallesCalchaquíes
É
É
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É
# –
É
É
É
É
É
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É É
Quebrada deHumahuaca
É
# –#÷
#÷
Wine and Adventuresaround Mendoza
Northern Adventure Loop
Two Weeks
Mendoza Wine & Adventures
Uncork your trip in beautiful Men-doza , located on the flanks of the
Andes. Not only are there world-
class vineyards surrounding the city,
but outdoor enthusiasts will be in heaven.
White-water rafting and skiing are awesome
in the area, and Cerro Aconcagua (the
western hemisphere’s highest peak) isn’t too
far away.
Now take a crack-of-dawn bus to San Ra- fael, where you can rent a bike and ride out
to the city’s wineries – some of which special-
ize in sparkling wine. The area is also home
to scenic Cañon de Atuel, a colorful, mini
Grand Canyon. Then backtrack up north to
San Juan to try the excellent syrah and oth-
er regional whites produced near this leafy
provincial capital. You can also rent a car
and head west to ethereal Barreal for raft-
ing, mountaineering and land sailing, thengo further north to explore the remote and
traditional villages of San José de Jáchal,Rodeo and Huaco. Finally, be sure to visit
the amazing landscapes of Parque Provin-cial Ischigualasto and Parque NacionalTalampaya , both boasting spectacular rock
formations – along with petroglyphs and di-
nosaur fossils.
Three Weeks
Northern Adventure Loop
Start in Córdoba , Argentina’s second-
largest city, to explore one of the finest
colonial centers.
Nowfl y north to historicTucumán
for some eclectic architecture and a lively
street scene. Over to the west is pretty Tafídel Valle, and getting there via a gorgeous
mountain road is half the fun. A bit further
north is beautiful Cafayate, the place to
knock back some aromatic torrontés wine.Sober up and travel through the epic Que- brada de Cafayate to Salta , whose central
plaza is one of Argentina’s best preserved;
this is also where the famous ‘Train to the
Clouds’ begins.
From Salta, head back south to the other-
worldly region of Valles Calchaquíes, and
the adobe villages of Cachi and Molinos.
After this peaceful interlude, journey back
north through the magnificently eroded val-ley of Quebrada de Humahuaca , where
you can overnight in lively little Tilcara . Return to Salta and fl y to the incredible
Parque Nacional Iguazú, home to nearly
unbelievable waterfalls. And if you like ani-
mals, another worthy destination is Reser- va Provincial Esteros del Iberá , an amaz-
ing wetlands preserve full of capybaras,
caimans and countless bird species.
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