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What can one say about Dubrovnik that hasnt been said already?
Lord Byrons jewel of the Adriatic has been quoted endlessly, George
Bernard Shaws paradise on Earth is a well-worn saying by now.
Dubrovnik leaves most people speechless, its beauty gobsmacking,
its setting a knockout. Not that its a secret quite the contrary;
too many people know of its beauty and thousands of tourists walk
squashed along the main street throughout the year, gazing,
gasping, snapping. Its one of the worlds hottest tourist
destinations.
Although the shelling of Dubrovnik in 1991 horrified the world,
the city has bounced back with characteristic vigour to again
enchant its visitors. The hedonistic can pamper themselves in one
of the citys fine hotels or enjoy a refreshing plunge into the sea.
History buffs can trace the rise and fall of Dubrovniks commercial
empire in museums replete with art and artefacts. A local symphony
orchestra and a busy concert season delight music-lovers.
Dubrovnik is an easy place to visit from Montenegro, and the
perfect introduction to Croatia, plus its a great launching place
for expeditions to the surrounding region which is equally, though
less famously, gorgeous.
Gateway City: Dubrovnik
Orientation ilipi international airport is 24km southeast of
Dubrovnik. The Jadrolinija ferry terminal and the bus station are
next to each other at Gru, several kilometres northwest of the Old
Town, which is closed to cars. The main street in the Old Town is
Placa (better known as Stradun).
InformationYou can change money at any travel agency or post
office. There are numerous ATMs in town and near the bus station
and the ferry terminal. Algoritam (Map p68; %322 044;
www.algoritam.hr; Placa 8; h9am-8.30pm Mon-Fri, to 3pm Sat) Has a
good selection of English-language books, including guidebooks.
Hospital (Map p67; %431 777; Dr Roka Mietia bb) Emergency services
are available 24 hours.Lapad post office (Map p67; etalite Kralja
Zvonimira 21; h9am-6pm Mon-Sat)Main post office (Map p68; cnr iroka
& Od Pua; h9am-6pm Mon-Sat) Netcaf (Map p68; %321 125;
www.netcafe.hr; Prijeko 21; per hr 30KN; h9am-11pm) A wonderfully
friendly cafe with a fast connection and good services. Tourist
office (www.tzdubrovnik.hr; h8am-8pm daily Jun-Sep, 8am-3pm
Mon-Fri, 9am-2pm Sat, closed
Sun Oct-May) Bus Station (Map p67; %417 581; Obala Pape Ivana
Pavla II 44a); Gru Harbour (Map p67; %417 983; Obala Stjepana Radia
27); Lapad (Map p67; %437 460; etalite Kralja Zvonimira 25); Old
Town (Map p68; %323 587; iroka 1); Pile Gate (Map p68; %427 591;
Dubrovakih Branitelja 7) Maps, information and the indispensable
Dubrovnik Riviera guide.
SightsOLD TOWN You will probably begin your visit of Dubrovniks
World Heritage-listed Old Town at the city bus stop outside Pile
Gate (Map p68). As you enter the city, Dubrovniks wonderful
pedestrian promenade, Placa, extends before you all the way to the
clock tower (Map p68) at the other end of town.
Just inside Pile Gate is the huge 1438 Onofrio Fountain (Map
p68), and the Franciscan Monastery (Franjevaki Samostan; Map p68;
%321 410; Placa 2; h9am-5pm) with a splendid cloister and
FAST FACTS
Croatia Country Code %385Dubrovnik Area Code %020Population
45,800
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p l a n e t . c o m
the third-oldest functioning pharmacy (h9am-5pm) in Europe; its
been operating since 1391. The church (h7am-7pm) has recently
undergone a long and expensive restoration to startling effect. The
monastery museum (adult/concession 20/10KN, h9am-5pm) has a
collection of liturgical objects, paintings and pharmacy
equipment.
In front of the clock tower at the eastern end of Placa (on the
square called Lua) is the 1417 Orlando Column (Map p68) a popu-lar
meeting place. On opposite sides of the column are the 16th-century
Sponza Palace (Map p68) originally a customs house, later a bank,
and now housing the State Archives (Dravni Arhiv u Dubrovniku; Map
p68; %321 032; admission 15KN; h8am-3pm Mon-Fri, 8am-1pm Sat) and
St Blaises Church (Map p68), a lovely
Italian baroque building built in 1715 to re-place an earlier
church destroyed in the 1667 earthquake. At the end of Pred Dvorom,
the wide street beside St Blaises, is the baroque Cathedral of the
Assumption of the Virgin (Map p68). Located between the two
churches, the 1441 Gothic Rectors Palace (Kneev Dvor; Map p68; %321
437; Pred Dvorom 3; adult/student 35/15KN; h9am-2pm Mon-Sat
Oct-May, 9am-6pm daily Jun-Sep) houses a museum with furnished
rooms, ba-roque paintings and historical exhibits. The elected
rector was not permitted to leave the building during his one-month
term with-out the permission of the senate. The nar-row street
opposite opens onto Gundulieva Poljana, a bustling morning market
(Map p68). Up the stairs south of the square is the 1725
0 150 m0 0.1 miles
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DUBROVNIK OLD TOWN
41
6
12
19
9
10
8
34
35
29
31
30
32
33
28
36 43
4
5
3 21
18
14
13
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BokarTower 7
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22
17
MinetaTower
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15 1642
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2
39 38
40
37
26
25
27
23
24
434241
TRANSPORT
40393837
SHOPPING
36ENTERTAINMENT
3534
DRINKING
333231302928
EATING
2726252423
SLEEPING
22212019181716151413
12
1110
9876
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
54321
INFORMATION
Lokrum Ferry Dock............ D3Croatia
Airlines.................. A2Bus Stop............................
A2
Sheriff & Cherry................. B2Photo Gallery
Carmel......... C2Maria.................................
C2ardin................................ B3
Open-Air Cinema.............. A3
Troubadur.........................
C3Bua................................. C4
Smuuti Bar.........................
B2Nishta................................ B2Lokanda
Peskarija.............. C3Kamenice...........................
C3Fresh..................................
B2Defne................................ C3
Puci Palace..................... C3Karmen Apartments...........
D3Hotel Stari Grad................. B2Fresh
Sheets....................... B3Apartments Amoret........... B3
War Photo Limited.............
B2Synagogue........................ C2State
Archives.................... C2St Blaise's Church..............
C3Sponza Palace.................... C2Rector's
Palace................... C3Ploe Gate.........................
D2Pile Gate............................ A2Orlando
Column................ C3Onofrio Fountain............... A2
Church.......................... B3Museum of the Orthodox
Morning Market................ C3Jesuit Monastery................
B3Franciscan Monastery........... B2Dominican Monastery..........
C2Clock Tower........................ C3 the
Virgin........................ C3Cathedral of the Assumption of
Tourist Office....................... B2Tourist
Office......................
A2Netcaf................................ B2Main Post
Office.................. B2Algoritam............................
C2
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Jesuit Monastery (Jezuitski Samostan; Map p68; Poljana Ruera
Bokovia).
As you proceed up Placa, make a detour to the Museum of the
Orthodox Church (Muzej Pravoslavne Crkve; Map p68; %323 283; Nikole
Boidarevia; adult/concession 10/5KN; h9am-1pm Mon-Fri) for a look
at a fascinating collection of 15th- to 19th-century icons.
By now youll be ready for a leisurely walk around the city walls
(Map p68; adult/child 50/20KN; h9am-7.30pm Apr-Oct, 10am-3.30pm
Nov-Mar), which have entrances just inside Pile Gate, across from
the Dominican monastery and near St John Fort. Built between the
13th and 16th centuries, these powerful walls are the finest in the
world and Dubrovniks main claim to fame. They enclose the entire
city in a protec-tive veil over 2km long and up to 25m high, with
two round and 14 square towers, two corner fortifications and a
large fortress. The views over the town and sea are great this walk
could be the high point of your visit.
Whichever way you go, youll notice the 14th-century Dominican
Monastery (Dominikanski Samostan; Map p68; %322 200; adult/child
20/10KN; h9am-6pm), which is located in the north-eastern corner of
the city. Its forbidding fortress-like exterior shelters a rich
trove of paintings from Dubrovniks finest 15th- and 16th-century
artists.
Dubrovnik has many other sights, such as the unmarked synagogue
(Sinagoga; Map p68; %321 028; udioska 5; admission 10KN; h10am-8pm
Jun-Sep, 9am-3pm Mon-Fri Oct-May) near the clock tower, which is
the second-oldest synagogue in Europe. The uppermost streets of the
Old Town below the north and south walls are pleasant to wander
along.
One of the better photography galleries youre likely to come
across, War Photo Limited (Map p68; %326 166; www.warphotoltd.com;
Antuninska 6; admission 30KN; h9am-9pm daily May-Sep, 10am-4pm
Tue-Sat, 10am-2pm Sun Oct & Apr) has changing exhibi-tions that
are curated by the gallery owner and former photojournalist Wade
Goddard. Its open in summer only, and has up to three ex-hibitions
in that period, relating to the subject of war seen from various
perspectives.
BEACHESBanje (Map p67), the closest beach to the Old Town, is
just beyond the 17th-century Lazareti (p71; a former quarantine
station) outside Ploe Gate (Map p68). Another nearby, good local
beach is Sveti Jakov (Map p67), a 20-
minute walk down Vlaho Bukovac street or a quick ride on bus 5
or 8 from the northern end of the Old Town. Other beaches past Pile
Gate are ulii and Dane (Map p67), a pebbly and rocky beach
respectively. Another excellent place for swimming is underneath
the Bua bar (p71), on the outside of the city walls. Diving is off
the rocks, there are steps to help you get in and out and some
cemented space between the rocks for sunbathing. Theres not much
shade here, so bring a hat and strong sun pro-tection. There are
also hotel beaches along the Lapad Peninsula (Map p67), which you
can use without a problem. The largest is Copacabana Beach outside
the Hotel Kompas.
An even better option is to take the ferry that shuttles
half-hourly in summer to lush Lokrum Island (return 80KN), a
national park with a rocky nudist beach (marked FKK), a botanical
garden and the ruins of a medieval Benedictine monastery.
Activities Adriatic Kayak Tours (Map p67; %312 770;
www.kayakcroatia.com; Frankopanska 6) offers a great series ofkayak
tours for experienced and beginnerkayakers. Tours cover nearby
Lokrum Island and the Elafiti Islands, but you can also go
white-water rafting on the Tara River (p143) and kayaking in the
Bay of Kotor (p73) in Montenegro.
SleepingPrivate accommodation is generally the best option in
Dubrovnik, but beware of the scramble of private owners at the bus
sta-tion or Jadrolinija wharf. Some provide what they say they
offer, others are rip-off artists. The owners listed below meet you
at the sta-tion if you call in advance. Otherwise head to any of
the travel agencies or the tourist office. Expect to pay about 28
to 50 for a room in the high season.
OLD TOWNFresh Sheets (Map p68; %091 799 2086;
[email protected]; Sv imuna 15; per person 25; i) A brand new
place, this is a collection of four indi-vidually decorated
apartments Lavender, Rainforest, Sunshine, Heaven each sleep-ing
two to four people (plus a sofa), and one double room. The location
is excellent (in the heart of Old Town), you get free internet and
wi-fi and, when the Fresh bars kitchen is open, a free smoothie
every day.
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Apartments Amoret (Map p68; %091 530 4910;
www.dubrovnik-amoret.com; Dinke Ranjine 5 & Restieva 2; apt
50-120; a) Six artistically appointed apartments and rooms are
tucked away within two Old Town houses (Amoret 1 and Amoret 2) that
date back to the 16th century. Each is different but all are
lovingly decorated to create some of the most charming
accommodation anywhere in Dubrovnik.oKarmen Apartments (Map p68;
%323
433, 098 619 282; www.karmendu.com; Bandureva 1; apt 55-145; a)
Set inside an old stone house in the middle of the Old Town, the
four apart-ments are beautifully decorated with original artwork
and imaginative use of recycled ma-terials. There are small, one-
to two-person apartments, as well as two for three or four people.
Book well in advance because it all gets whipped up by June.
Hotel Stari Grad (Map p68; %322 244; www.hotelstarigrad.com;
Palmotieva; low-high s 650-1180KN, d 920KN-1580KN; a) Staying in
the heart of the Old Town in a lovingly restored stone building is
an unmatchable experience. The eight rooms are elegantly and
tastefully furnished to feel simple and luxurious at the same
time.
Puci Palace (Map p68; %326 222; www.thepucicpalace.com; Od Pua
1; low-high s 206-315, d 290-505; a) Right in the heart of the Old
Town and inside what was once a noblemans mansion, this five-star
hotel is Dubrovniks most exclusive and hottest property. There are
only 19 rooms, all exquisitely decorated and featuring Italian
mosaics, Egyptian cotton and baroque beds.oHotel Bellevue (Map p67;
%330 000; www
.hotel-bellevue.hr; Petra ingrije 7; d from 250; asi) Although
not strictly speaking within the bor-ders of the Old Town, but a
five-minute walk west from Pile Gate, Hotel Bellevues location on a
cliff that overlooks the open sea and the lovely bay underneath is
pretty much divine. The rooms are beautifully designed, the
balconies overlook the said sea and bay. Its restaurant, Vapor, is
top-notch too, with excellent seasonal products, fish, meat and a
wide range of Croatian wines.
OUTSIDE THE OLD TOWNSolitudo (Map p67; %448 200;
www.camping-adriatic.com; Iva Dulia 39; per person/campsite
5.40/10.20; hmid-Maymid-Oct) This pretty and renovated camping
ground is within walking distance of the beach.
YHA Hostel (Map p67; %423 241; [email protected]; Vinka
Sagrestana 3; low-high per person B&B 85-120KN)
Basic in decor, the YHA Hostel is clean and, as travellers
report, a lot of fun. If you are al-lowed to choose a bed (rare),
the best dorms are rooms 31 and 32, for their secret roof terrace
with a refreshingly lovely view.
Apartments Silva Kusjanovi (Map p67; %435 071, 098 244 639;
[email protected]; Kardinala Stepinca 62; per person 100KN)
Sweet Silva has four large apartments that can hold four to eight
beds. All have terraces with gorgeous views and barbecues.
Begovi Boarding House (Map p67; %435 191;
http://begovic-boarding-house.com; Primorska 17; low-high dm 14-19,
s 25-32, d 32-40; i) A long-time fa-vourite with our readers, this
friendly place in Lapad has three rooms with shared bathroom and
three apartments. Theres a terrace out the back with a good view.
Breakfast is an additional 30KN.
Vila Micika (Map p67; %437 332; www.vilamicika.hr; Mata Vodapia;
low-high s 150-210KN, d 300-420KN) A simple, well-run establishment
with rooms painted in soft and pleasant colours and equipped with
TVs and modern bathrooms. Theres a pleasant outdoor terrace, and
its only 200m to the Lapad beaches.oHotel Zagreb (Map p67; %430
930; www
.hotels-sumratin.com; etalite Kralja Zvonimira 27; low-high s
400-660KN, d 700-1060KN; a) Under the same ownership as Hotel
Sumratin, Hotel Zagreb is the more stylish sister, set inside a
lovely, salmon-coloured 19th-century building. The rooms are large,
with marine motifs and large bathrooms.oVilla Wolff (Map p67; %438
710; www.villa
-wolff.hr; Nika i Meda Pucia 1; low-high s 1533-1879KN, d
1606-1898KN; ai) A gorgeous boutique hotel right on the lovely
seaside promenade, Villa Wolff has six rooms, all beautifully
outfitted, bright and airy. There is a verdant garden that guests
use for sunbathing.
Hotel Uvala (Map p67; %433 580; www.hotelimaestral.com;
Masarykov Put 6; d 120-170; as) A newly renovated four-star hotel
thats decked out with a lovely reception, indoor and outdoor pools
and a comprehensive spa. Its unfortu-nate, however, that the rooms
in Uvala are a bit of a let-down with their glum browns and whites.
The service is friendly and the place is comfortable, very close to
the beach.
Hotel Excelsior (Map p67; %353 353; www.hotel-excelsior.hr;
Frana Supila 12; s/d from 1640/1890KN; as) This is possibly
Dubrovniks biggest hotel extravaganza after a 10 million refit, the
legendary Excelsior opened again in 2008 to
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many bated breaths. The adjacent boutique villa, Villa Odak, has
gorgeously understated rooms. There is also an indoor and outdoor
swimming pool and a palm-tree terrace.
EatingOLD TOWNWeed out tourist traps and choose care-fully, and
youll find fabulous food in the Old Town.
Smuuti Bar (Map p68; %091 896 7509; Palmotieva 5; smoothies
18-25KN) This place is perfect for break-fast smoothies and nice
big mugs of coffee (at a bargain 10KN).
Fresh (Map p68; %091 896 7509; www.igotfresh.com; Vetranieva 4;
wraps from 20KN) A mecca for young travellers who gather here for
the smoothies, wraps and other healthy snacks, as well as drinks
and music in the evening.
Nishta (Map p68; %091 896 7509; Prijeko 30; mains from 30KN)
When they opened this unpreced-ented case of a 100% vegetarian
restaurant in Dubrovnik, the baffled locals asked the owners what
they served. Everything except meat, the owners said, and the
locals concluded: Well, then youre serving nothing. Hence the name
Nishta (nothing in Croatian). Alas, youre in the Balkans, what do
you expect? Head here for a refreshing gazpacho, a heart-warming
miso soup, Thai curries, veggies and noodles, and many more veggie
delights.
Kamenice (Map p68; %421 499; Gundulieva Poljana 8; mains from
40KN) Its been here since the 1970s and not much has changed: the
socialist-style wait-ing uniforms, the simple interior, the massive
portions of mussels, grilled or fried squid, griddled anchovies and
kamenice (oysters). The terrace is on one of Dubrovniks most
gorgeous squares.oLokanda Peskarija (Map p68; %324 750;
Ribarnica bb; mains from 40KN) Located on the Old Harbour right
next to the fish market, this is undoubtedly one of Dubrovniks best
eateries. The quality of the seafood dishes is unfalter-ing, the
prices are good and the location is gorgeous. The locals queue
along with the tourists for the wonderful baby squid, the
substantial risottos and the juicy mussels.
Defne (Map p68; %326 200; Od Pua 1; mains from 70KN) Puci
Palaces top-floor restaurant, its one of Old Towns classiest. Try
the octopus carpaccio starter, served with black tagliolini and
truffle a piece of heaven in your mouth or the gorgeous lobster
with white risotto dish. The wine list is impeccable.
LAPADSedna (Map p67; %352 000; www.hotel-kompas.hr; Petra
ingrije 7; pizzas from 26KN; omelettes 30-35KN) The Hotel Kompas
bar-pizzeria is a great and unpreten-tious spot for breakfast,
lunch or dinner. You can sit on a terrace overlooking the beach and
Lapad Bay while the locals buzz around, drinking their coffee and
chatting on sunny mornings and afternoons.oLevanat (Map p67; %435
352; Nika i Meda
Pucia 15; mains 45-120KN) One of the best spots in the whole
city, Levanat overlooks the sea from the pine-laden hill between
Lapad Bay and Babin Kuk. The food is equally gorgeous as well as
innovative, with seafood and un-usual sauces, fresh ingredients and
delicious vegetarian options.
Blidinje (Map p67; %358 794; Lapadska Obala 21; mains from 70KN)
A great local thats not fre-quented by many tourists, Blidinje has
fabu-lous views of Gru Harbour from its terrace. The food is aimed
primarily at carnivores, so use the opportunity to taste lamb or
veal slow-cooked under hot coals but make sure you ring in and
order at least two hours in advance.
Drinking EastWest Club (Map p67; %412 220; Frana Supila bb) By
day this outfit on Banje Beach rents out beach chairs and umbrellas
and serves drinks to the bathers. When the rays lengthen, the
cocktail bar opens.
Troubadur (Map p68; %412 154; Bunieva Poljana 2) Come to this
legendary Dubrovnik venue for live jazz concerts in the summer.oBua
(Map p68; Ilije Sarake) The Bua is a
no-fuss place on the outside of the city walls, facing out onto
the open sea, with simple drinks and blissful punters.
Entertainment The summer months are chock-full of con-certs and
folk dancing. The tourist office has the full schedule.
Lazareti (Map p67; %324 633; www.lazareti.du-hr.net; Frana
Supila 8) Dubrovniks best art and music centre, Lazareti hosts
cinema nights, club nights, live music, masses of concerts and
pretty much all the best things in town. Come here for the free
art-film seasons hosted by a group of local film-enthusiasts
throughout the year. International and local films are projected
onto the 19th-century walls of the Lazareti complex, once a
quarantine barracks.
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Open-Air Cinema (Map p67; Kumiia, Lapad) In two locations, its
open nightly in July and August with screenings starting after
sundown (9pm or 9.30pm). The other location is at Za Rokom in the
Old Town (Map p68).
Shopping Youll find souvenir stores all over Stradun, selling
Dalmatian marine details, stripy tops, anchors and the like.
Maria (Map p68; %321 330; www.maria-dubrovnik.hr; Svetog
Dominika bb) Take a few deep breaths before you step into this
shop, for you are sure to swoon at the sight of soft Miu Miu
leather bags, lacquered Alexander McQueen shoes and gorgeous Marni
dresses. The prices are international of course, and the service is
friendly too, which is always a pleasant surprise.
Sheriff & Cherry (Map p68; %324 888;
www.sheriffandcherry.com; orieva 4; h10am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 3pm Sat)
One of the few trendy boutiques in town, this Zagreb-based shop
stocks all the major fashion labels, such as Paul & Joe, Cheap
Mondays, Anya Hindmarch and Dries Van Noten, among many, many
others.
Photo Gallery Carmel (Map p68; %091 577 7157;
www.phototgallerycarmel.com; Zamanjina 10; h9am-4pm Mon-Sat) A
newly opened photography gallery that hosts work by local and
international artists. Prints are for sale.
Djardin (Map p68; %324 744; Miha Pracata 8; h9.30am-6pm Mon-Fri,
to 12.30pm Sat) A sprawling
jewellery shop in which you can get lost for hours.
Getting There & AwayAIR Daily flights to and from Zagreb are
oper-ated by Croatia Airlines (Map p68; %413 777;
www.croatiaairlines.hr; Brsalje 9; h8am-4pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat).
The fare runs from 400KN one-way, higher in peak season; the trip
takes about an hour.
There are also nonstop flights to Rome, London and Manchester in
the period be-tween April and October.
TO/FROM THE AIRPORTilipi international airport is 24km southeast
of Dubrovnik. The Croatia Airlines airport buses (25KN, 45 minutes)
leave from the main bus station (Map p67; %357 088; Obala Pape
Ivana Pavla II 44a) 1 hours before flight times. Buses meet Croatia
Airlines flights but not all others. A taxi costs around 200KN.
TO/FROM MONTENEGROBuses head between Dubrovnik and Herceg Novi
(8, two hours) twice a day, continu-ing on to Kotor and Budva. In a
busy sum-mer season and at weekends buses out of Dubrovnik can be
crowded, so book a ticket well before the scheduled departure time.
A taxi from Dubrovnik to Herceg Novi will cost around 60.
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72
Gateway City: Dubrovnik OrientationInformationSightsOLD TOWNFAST
FACTSBEACHES
ActivitiesSleepingOLD TOWNOUTSIDE THE OLD TOWN
EatingOLD TOWNLAPAD
DrinkingEntertainmentShoppingGetting There & AwayAIRTO/FROM
THE AIRPORTTO/FROM MONTENEGRO
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