The Travel & Leisure Magazine July Aug 2009.~Pdf

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In this edition of The Travel & Leisure Magazine. Getting to know Thailand, Escape to Salzburg, cruising, Golf in Murcia, Visiting the Channel Islands, Coaching Holidays, London's Parks, Kwazulu-Natal South Africa. Plus win some cool travel products.

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<ul><li>1.T R A V E L FROM THE EDITORHOME OR AWAY? Welcome to thes u m m e r- t i m eissue of TheTravel&amp;LeisureMagazine. Traditionally, itis when we Brits make ourannual pilgrimage to soakup the sun on distantbeaches. But, according toseveral surveys, more of GETTING TO KNOW Thailand bling and buy6us are choosing to stay in the UK this year either to cut down on the expense of going abroad, or to enjoy the bar- TRAVEL UPDATE Travel news15 beque summer promised by the Met Office.Wherever you head, we hope you will take ESCAPE TO Salzburg city of music 18 this issue with you. As ever, it is packed full of ideas for holidays, both overseas and at home.ALL ABOARD Cruising from UK ports + News 23 And with an eye on the weather, we look at Londons glorious parks and see whats going on during the summer beyond the capital. OFF THE BEATEN TRACK KwaZulu-Natal 28We head to Thailand, a perennial favourite for its beaches and good-value shopping, and sing LETS TRY Escorted coach holidays34 the praises of music city Salzburg. We also go on the buses to see how coach holidays have PACK YOUR CLUBS Spains Murcia region + News 41 changed. The Channel Islands are the focus for our look at holidays on your doorstep. Keeping the theme close to home we highlight cruises ON YOUR DOORSTEP The Channel Islands 47 from UK ports, which are growing in populari- ty. And we tee it up in Spains Murcia region for IN YOUR FLIGHT BAG 53 our golf spotlight. WIN A stylish Travelwrap worth over 200Sit back, enjoy the read and catch those rays while they last. IN YOUR SUITCASE 54Peter Ellegard PLUS 5 Yale Travel Safes to give awayBEST FOR Hotels news and review684 The Travel &amp; Leisure MagazineJuly/August 2009 </li></ul><p>2. L E I S U R E EDITORIAL TEAM OUT &amp; ABOUT Whats on outside London 56 Editor Peter Ellegard Writers Peter Ellegard, Keeley Gordon, Sara Macefield, Dave Richardson, Debbie Ward and COMING NEXT Whats in store in the next issue59 Frank Partridge Design Nick Blaxill Advertising Team Jeannette Cumbers, Beverley LONDON REVIEW Londons parks + London news 60 Sennett &amp; Elaine Smith Admin/Accounts Wendy Barfoot Production Keeley Gordon, Loretta Prince Publisher Terry Stafford Digital Publisher Peter LewseyFREE BOOKS for newREADERS Published bi-monthly by Travel &amp; Leisure Magazines Ltdsubscribers see page 59First Floor, 103 Cranbrook Road, Dont forget theLETTERSIlford, Essex, IG1 4PU Tel: 020 8477 1529 Fax: 020 8514 4536next issue of TheWe want to hear Email: info@tlmags.com Printed by Wyndeham HeronTravel &amp; LeisureMAY/JUNE 2009 from you. Let us2 where sold Travel &amp; Leisure Magazines Limited 2009Magazine will be have youravailable from The publishers cannot accept responsibility for errors or omissions.rTimeless wondethoughts on&amp;MARCH/APRIL2009 2 whereCALYPSOsoldREYKJAVIKCRUISING Whilst every care is taken, all material submitted to TravelSeptember 2009.le Cool and affordabn CaribbeaFUNTASTIC island hoppingROCKofSTARWightFLORIDA TEE TIME IN&amp; Leisure Magazines Limited is done so at its owners The IsleTRAVELLING IN STYLE The Travel &amp;A realfamily affairSCOTLAND days inPerfect the home of golf risk and neither Travel &amp; Leisure Magazines Limited norrailwayMagicaljourneysWINAVON CALLING NEWFplaygroundLAND ShakespeareOUND Subscription price 6 Leisure NaturesCountry its agents can accept any liability for loss or damage.KENYAAway from it holiday for two worth 4,000 to #A weeks all safarisNewfoundlandCanadas CUT1,500 of Pride of Britain hotel vouchers # TO Travel &amp; Leisure Magazines Limited is a completely inde-Guide 2009 copies, for 6 issues plusTHE CHASE and more PLUS: Steam HeritageMagazinesRoyal Albert Hall Tornado huntersCRUISINGtoursWIN pendent company and can hold no responsibility for theHead for the Med receive a FREE Travel LONDONTheatres in focusMARRAKECH Book. new look, or##A weeks holiday A city with souksMarrakech riad for two in a luxury appeal actions of outside agents. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without prior written consent.A seven-night Continental camping trip PLUS: Time Out guides, Billy Connolly Rough Guides,DVDs, riding lessons and more on any topic. All private advertisers are totally responsible for their own wording within their advertisement, and Travel &amp; LeisureTake out a subscriptionThe best letterwill win a STAR PRIZE. Magazines Limited can therefore take no responsibility asCall 020 8477 1529 to their content. Please seek legal advice and thereafter6 issues just 6, inc postage. SAVE 50% Email us atverify all the details of your purchase in writing beforeletters@tlmags.com proceeding. Front cover photo: Bournemouth Tourism July/August 2009 The Travel &amp; Leisure Magazine5 3. Karst awayin bling and buy paradise From its gorgeous beaches and craggy karst islands to golden palaces, jungles and great shopping, it is hardly surprising Thailand is such a popular holiday spot. Debbie Ward is a Thai dyed-in-the-wool fanTheres the big- paddle tour of scenicrock climbing; theres aheaded ghost mangroves at Thailands cultural side if you joinsaid my guide,southerly resort ofthe monks (and theflashing the beam Krabi. My small monkeys) at the nearbyof her torch into kayaking party notTiger Cave Temple;Main photo and inset:Tourism Authority of Thailandthe upper reaches only took in the big-and, of course, theresof the cave. I could make out a striped headed ghost cave but some of the worlds mostsnake-like creature with a bulge and an eye also tunnels hung withgorgeous beaches to lieat one end. I did what any tourist would do,stalactites and leafy corri-your towel upon.I took a photo. dors where brightly-colouredI Wat Pho BuddhaLow-key Krabi may not beAs I was wearing flip flops and my only crabs crawled up exposed treeThailands most popular resort (itmeans of escape was a kayak its just as well roots. lags in that respect behind Phuket andthis was no malevolent monster but a 2,000 Krabi could be considered a small-scale Koh Samui) but if your mental image of theyear-old cave painting, given its nicknameshowcase of the tourist appeal of whole of country is craggy limestone karst islands andby Thai fishermen.Thailand. Theres adventure with kayak- long-tail boats decorated with ribbons in aMy brush with ancient spirits came on a ing, jungle hikes to hot springs and even turquoise sea, this is where the photos youre6 The Travel &amp; Leisure Magazine July/August 2009 4. getting to KNOWTHAILAND recalling were mostly likely taken. The icon- ic karst islands were made famous when oneI Long-tail boats and karst island off Krabi was used as a location for the villain Scaramangas hideout in the 1974 Bond film The Man with the Golden Gun. Now popu- larly known as James Bond Island, Koh Tapu (translating as Nail island as it is virtually vertical) is in Phang Nga Bay and can be reached on a day trip from Krabi or Phuket.Island hopping Krabis main strip, Ao Nang, has something of a waterborne rush hour each morning asDebbie Ward long-tails start their noisy outboard motors to whisk day-tripping tourists into karst- studded Phang Nga Bay. My partner and I joined one of the island-hopping excursions By night we enjoyed browsing the restau-By day, when we werent on excursions for a lazy day of sunbathing and snorkelling rants at the quieter eastern end of Ao Nang,we made shorter hops, using the long-tails on and around five beaches of increasing checking out the catch of the day displayed as a ferry service to the attractive neighbour- loveliness. Some of the places we stoppedon iced trays before tucking our legs under a ing beaches of Railay and, my personal at were nothing more than sandbars but bamboo table and tucking in to three or fourfavourite Thai beach, Phra Nang. Here, at enterprising Thais had turned their long-colourful stir-fry or curry dishes for underone end of the cliff-framed white sand strip, tails into floating cafes serving milkshakes,10. Afterwards wed head for a cocktail at a I found another surprise waiting in a cave sandwiches and fruit.bar converted from an old VW campervan. rows of brightly-painted wooden phalluses.July/August 2009The Travel &amp; Leisure Magazine 7 5. While it may be a giggle for tourists, somelocals believe this cave contains the spirit ofa drowned princess and I kept a respectfuldistance from the devotees offering prayersbefore the unusual shrine. Friendly peopleThailands predominantly-Buddhist spiritu-ality is part of what makes it so famouslyfriendly. Thais consider it a loss of face toresort to argument and youll rarely hearraised voices. The short-lived violence at thegovernment protests of late last year was out Tourism Authority of Thailandof character in this usually-peaceful country.Buddhism also gives Thailand some of itsmost colourful sights, such as gold bell-shapedtemple stupas and saffron-robed monks. Mybeach shrine was a far cry from the countrysmore glitzy places of worship, the mostI Relxation, Thai stylerevered of which lies within Bangkoks keytourist attraction, the Grand Palace.On my visit I had my own lie down for atance are the Bridge over the River Kwai, theYou havent seen bling until youve wan-very affordable kneading at the massage so-called Death Railway built by WWII pris-dered this sprawling complex of gold leaf-school in Wat Phos grounds.oners of war, and Ayutthaya, the site ofcovered, jewel-encrusted buildings set Bangkoks other must-sees, the pottery Thailands former royal capital. At the sec-beside the citys Chao Phraya River. Despitestudded temple of dawn Wat Arun and ond of these I was charmed to discover thethe crowds its a peaceful place to be, withthe small Royal Barges Museum are close odd crumbling stone Buddha statue respect-Thais making incense and lotus blossomby and reached on a river boat tour. Just fully clothed with saffron robes or patchedofferings and kneeling before the preciousbeware of locals telling you the attraction with gold leaf among the restored templesstatue thats the focal point of the Temple ofyou seek is closed for lunch, flooded or oth- and atmospheric ruins. Most people arrivethe Emerald Buddha. Next door to theerwise unavailable and helpfully suggesting at Ayutthaya by road but its possible toGrand Palace, Wat Pho is home to a giant, alternative sights. Theyre invariably drum-make a romantic two-night, three-day jour-reclining Buddha with feet inlaid with moth-ming up business for a mate with a tuk-tuk! ney aboard a converted rice bargeer of pearl. Out of Bangkok but within day-trip dis-(www.manohracruises.com). G When visiting Bangkoks Royal Palace wear enclosedCultural tipsshoes or sandals with straps around the heels to save queuing to hire appropriate footwear.G It is considered rude to point your feet at people inG Be prepared to cover your shoulders and remove shoesThailand and especially at images of Buddha.Take care to inside temples.tuck your feet behind you when sitting on the floor, G The Thai royal family is highly-revered, so derogatoryparticularly in temples. comments about them and disrespectful treatment ofG Its also taboo to touch someones head, or to touch Baht notes bearing the kings image will not bemonks. appreciated. Tourism Authority of Thailand I The Royal Palace, Bangkok 8 The Travel &amp; Leisure Magazine July/August 2009 6. Thai massage I Traditional Thai massage. Below left: Thai massage ingredients Thailands unique and effective form of massage combines stretches with reflexology-like stimulation of pressure points. Much attention is focused on the feet but the masseur will also pull your pyjama-clad limbs into slightly scary but ultimately muscle-easing positions, which is why this technique is sometimes called passive yoga.If youre nervous, start with a foot massage or the more gentle Thai treatments involving warm herbal poultices.Whatever you choose, your relaxation will be aided by the low cost.While youd commonly pay 1 a minute for a massage at home, 4 an hour is more typical in Thailands clean street or beachside centres (look out for the reflexology charts outside) and as little as 30 in a plush hotel spa with a range of international treatments.All photos:Tourism Authority of Thailand Cycling tourinside what looks like the belly of a bright from recycled animal feed sacks and eatingOn another visit to Bangkok, I made mywhite space ship. Glamorous skyscraper-top dinner under a chandelier hung with Barbieescape from the city on one of the capitalsbars such as Sirocco Sky Bar dolls. While not everyone will love thenew cycling tours. Thankfully this didnt (www.thedomebkk.com) at State Tower or quirkiness of this place there are severalroute me through Bangkoks traffic-choked Vertigo Grill &amp; Moon Bar boutique hotels in the capital where the stylestreets; instead, our small group was led by(www.banyantree.com) atop the Banyan is more traditional, meaning you no longerthe guide along quiet paths through nearbyTree offer a different perspective with city have to go large for a bit of city chic.farming areas, creating our own refreshingviews that stretch to the horizon.breeze as we went. During an enlighteningBangkoks hotels also pack that wow fac-Bargain shoppingday, we stopped to ask farmers the secrets of tor and nowadays size isnt everything.I recommend hitting Bangkok last if youthe famously-stinky durian fruit and calledIve been lucky enough to stay in several can. Not only will you have shedin at a local infant school to watch an plush marble-lobbied giants on the your jetlag in a more relaxedEnglish lesson in progress. Flinging ourriverfront over the years but, on environment but youllmountain bikes into a boat for a short ride my last trip, I chose to down-have got to grips withup river, we ended up at Koh Kret, an islandsize to Reflections Rooms I Shop forhaggling and theknown for its pottery making and where we (www.reflections-thai.com), local crafts exchangeratewatched freshly-moulded incense burners a bizarre and very afford-before you hit thebeing loaded into kilns.able establishment where acapitals shopping While the big sights of Bangkok are abouthost of artists have been highlights.history, one of its other key attractions its given free reign with theMost touristsnightlife is bang up to date. Among the decor. I found myselfbeat a path to themost famous venues is Bed Supper Club crunching my way across myrather seedy streets(www.bedsupperclub.com), where you canroom on silver bubble wraparound Patpong fordance, or recline to eat and sip cocktailsflooring, sitting on a sofa madethe ever-popular night10 The Travel &amp; Leisure MagazineJuly/August 2009 7. to see Cambodias famous Angkor Wat tem- ples is another great combination.Heres a regional round-up of Thailands key resorts:Andaman Sea Krabi and Phuket both front the spectacular island-studded Phang Nga Bay, a scenic playground of beautiful beaches, caves and cliffs for lazing, kayaking and snorkelling. Phuket, Thailands most popular resort, is by far the liveliest of the two. This is the place to come for big resort facilities, party action and...</p>