Design In Society Conservation And Resources

Design in SocietyDesign in SocietyConservation and Conservation and

ResourcesResources

A2 TextilesA2 Textiles

IntroductionIntroduction We will look at:We will look at: Environmental implications of the industrial age.Environmental implications of the industrial age. The use of resources and energy.The use of resources and energy. Renewable sources of energy.Renewable sources of energy. Environmentally friendly manufacturing Environmentally friendly manufacturing

processes.processes. Using sustainable technology.Using sustainable technology. The management of waste and pollution control.The management of waste and pollution control. The impact of biotechnology on manufacturing.The impact of biotechnology on manufacturing. The advantages and disadvantages of recycling.The advantages and disadvantages of recycling.

Environmental Implications Environmental Implications of the Industrial Ageof the Industrial Age

This section covers:This section covers: Products and the environment.Products and the environment. Design and the environment.Design and the environment. Supporting longer term use.Supporting longer term use. Conservation and the environment.Conservation and the environment. Sustainable development.Sustainable development.

Environmental Implications Environmental Implications of the Industrial Ageof the Industrial Age

Consumption of non-renewable (finite) Consumption of non-renewable (finite) resources is a big issueresources is a big issue

For example, coal, gas, oil and minerals.For example, coal, gas, oil and minerals. They will run out unless we conserve / They will run out unless we conserve /

manage them.manage them.

Products and the EnvironmentProducts and the Environment

Our society encourages people to buy Our society encourages people to buy more and more products.more and more products.

We are a throw away society.We are a throw away society. This has produced loads of products due This has produced loads of products due

to competition.to competition. Fashion and fashionable products are part Fashion and fashionable products are part

of this society.of this society.

Design and the EnvironmentDesign and the Environment

Product designers must consider the Product designers must consider the environment.environment.

Designers must stop the design of ‘throw Designers must stop the design of ‘throw away’ products.away’ products.

How will fashion survive if the environment How will fashion survive if the environment is to be saved?is to be saved?

Supporting Longer Term UseSupporting Longer Term Use

Designers must design longer-term use Designers must design longer-term use products.products.

Fashion must be slowed down.Fashion must be slowed down. Non-renewable materials must be used Non-renewable materials must be used

less.less. Consumers must be made to stop ‘shop til Consumers must be made to stop ‘shop til

you drop’ and buying new clothes because you drop’ and buying new clothes because there is a new season.there is a new season.

Supporting Longer Term UseSupporting Longer Term Use

This could be encouraged by:This could be encouraged by: Making people buy because they need it Making people buy because they need it

not just because they want it.not just because they want it. Rental of household goods.Rental of household goods. Paying for use, repair and service of a Paying for use, repair and service of a

product.product. Returning the product to the manufacturer Returning the product to the manufacturer

for recycling or reusing.for recycling or reusing.

Conservation and the EnvironmentConservation and the Environment

Conservation includes:Conservation includes: Protecting the (natural and urban) Protecting the (natural and urban)

environment for future generations to use.environment for future generations to use. Managing existing resources.Managing existing resources. Reducing consumption of non-renewable Reducing consumption of non-renewable

resources.resources. Using renewable energy sources like Using renewable energy sources like

hydro (water), solar and wind power.hydro (water), solar and wind power.

Sustainable DevelopmentSustainable Development

Development needs to meet the needs of Development needs to meet the needs of the present without compromising the the present without compromising the ability of future generations to meet their ability of future generations to meet their own needs.own needs.

What does this mean?What does this mean?

The Use of Resources and EnergyThe Use of Resources and Energy

Manufacture of textiles and fashion products Manufacture of textiles and fashion products involves use of:involves use of: Renewable resources.Renewable resources. Non-renewable resources.Non-renewable resources. Non-renewable energy.Non-renewable energy.

Natural fibres are renewable.Natural fibres are renewable. Regenerated fibres are made from regenerated Regenerated fibres are made from regenerated

wood pulp from managed forests.wood pulp from managed forests. Synthetic fibres are made from non-renewable Synthetic fibres are made from non-renewable

oil.oil.


Although synthetic fibres are made from oil they Although synthetic fibres are made from oil they have both benefits and disadvantages for the have both benefits and disadvantages for the environment.environment.

Low % of oil worldwide in comparison with use Low % of oil worldwide in comparison with use of oil for fuel.of oil for fuel.

Synthetics provide enhanced or engineered Synthetics provide enhanced or engineered properties which can prolong the life of technical, properties which can prolong the life of technical, industrial, performance and fashion products.industrial, performance and fashion products.

Synthetic fibres can be recycled (fibre blends Synthetic fibres can be recycled (fibre blends cannot though).cannot though).


Electricity used in product manufacture is derived from Electricity used in product manufacture is derived from coal, gas, oil or nuclear power.coal, gas, oil or nuclear power.

Managing finite resources is important for textiles Managing finite resources is important for textiles products companies.products companies.

The efficient management of resources in The efficient management of resources in manufacturing:manufacturing:

Reduces the quantity of materials used.Reduces the quantity of materials used. Makes more efficient use of energy.Makes more efficient use of energy. Uses less wasteful production methods.Uses less wasteful production methods. Re-uses waste materials.Re-uses waste materials. Recycles waste materials.Recycles waste materials. Designs for easy product after case (less energy needed to Designs for easy product after case (less energy needed to

maintain it).maintain it). Designer products that can be fully / partly re-used / recycled.Designer products that can be fully / partly re-used / recycled.

Renewable Sources of EnergyRenewable Sources of Energy

This section looks at:This section looks at: Renewable sources of energy.Renewable sources of energy. Making more efficient use of energy.Making more efficient use of energy. Reducing costs.Reducing costs.

Renewable Sources of EnergyRenewable Sources of Energy Flow naturally from nature.Flow naturally from nature.

Wind, tides, rivers, solar energy, geothermal, Wind, tides, rivers, solar energy, geothermal, biomass.biomass.

Renewable sources – living things that can be Renewable sources – living things that can be regrown.regrown.

Forests, cotton, flax.Forests, cotton, flax. Forests are renewable if they not used faster Forests are renewable if they not used faster

than they can be replaced.than they can be replaced. Cellulose (used for textiles fibres eg modal, Cellulose (used for textiles fibres eg modal,

viscose, Tencel, Lyocell) comes from softwoods viscose, Tencel, Lyocell) comes from softwoods from managed forests.from managed forests.

Renewable Sources of EnergyRenewable Sources of Energy

Making More Efficient Making More Efficient Use of EnergyUse of Energy

Production uses large amounts of raw materials Production uses large amounts of raw materials and energy.and energy.

Manufacturers must be encouraged to:Manufacturers must be encouraged to: Contribute to sustainable development.Contribute to sustainable development. Reduce energy costsReduce energy costs Adopt more efficient manufacturing processes.Adopt more efficient manufacturing processes. Redesign the product or production process to Redesign the product or production process to

be more environmentally friendly.be more environmentally friendly.

Reducing CostsReducing Costs Textiles companies must take notice of:Textiles companies must take notice of:

Environmental legislation.Environmental legislation. Rising water costs.Rising water costs. Rising raw materials costs.Rising raw materials costs.

It is vital that to make companies more competitive they.It is vital that to make companies more competitive they. Use raw materials more efficiently.Use raw materials more efficiently. Improve production processes.Improve production processes.

EMS (Environmental management system enables this to happen.EMS (Environmental management system enables this to happen. The advantages of EMS are:The advantages of EMS are: Based around reducing waste and operating costs.Based around reducing waste and operating costs. The aim is to:The aim is to:

Reduce consumption of raw materials.Reduce consumption of raw materials. Improve output.Improve output. Reduce waste treatment and disposal costs.Reduce waste treatment and disposal costs.

Environmentally Friendly Environmentally Friendly Manufacturing Processes Manufacturing Processes

This section looks at:This section looks at: LyocellLyocell EnvirowiseEnvirowise Using Cleaner TechnologyUsing Cleaner Technology Cleaner design and life cycle analysisCleaner design and life cycle analysis

LyocellLyocell

Made from regenerated cellulose fibre.Made from regenerated cellulose fibre. Traditional viscose process uses sodium hydroxide to Traditional viscose process uses sodium hydroxide to

dissolve the cellulose.dissolve the cellulose. The lyocell process uses an organic non-toxic solvent The lyocell process uses an organic non-toxic solvent

(amine oxide) and water to dissolve the cellulose.(amine oxide) and water to dissolve the cellulose. The lyocell process is simpler and recycles the amine The lyocell process is simpler and recycles the amine

oxide which can then be reused.oxide which can then be reused. Lyocell can be recycled, incinerated, land filed or Lyocell can be recycled, incinerated, land filed or

digested in sewage.digested in sewage. The fibre degrades completely in 8 days to leave water The fibre degrades completely in 8 days to leave water

and carbon dioxide which can be used to power the and carbon dioxide which can be used to power the sewage plan itself.sewage plan itself.

EnvirowiseEnvirowise www.envirowise .gov.uk works with textiles companies to help www.envirowise .gov.uk works with textiles companies to help

them address issues such as:them address issues such as: Rising water costsRising water costs Stricter effluent regulationsStricter effluent regulations Increasing water disposal costsIncreasing water disposal costs

The Envirowise programme helps manufacturing companies:The Envirowise programme helps manufacturing companies: Improve their environmental performanceImprove their environmental performance Increase their competitivenessIncrease their competitiveness

The main themes are:The main themes are: Waste minimisation – making cost saving through use of Waste minimisation – making cost saving through use of

simple, no / low cost measures. Reduces use of materials, simple, no / low cost measures. Reduces use of materials, water and energy.water and energy.

Cost effective, cleaner technology means using equipment or Cost effective, cleaner technology means using equipment or processes that produce less waste or emissions than normal processes that produce less waste or emissions than normal methods.methods.

Using Cleaner TechnologyUsing Cleaner Technology Colour standards for discharges from sewage treatment Colour standards for discharges from sewage treatment

works were set by the Environment Agency in 1990.works were set by the Environment Agency in 1990. Local water companies imposed these requirements on Local water companies imposed these requirements on

dye houses.dye houses. Companies had to review their processes.Companies had to review their processes. Courtaulds sock company did the following:Courtaulds sock company did the following: Used an innovative, absorbent system based on layers Used an innovative, absorbent system based on layers

of synthetic inorganic clay particles.of synthetic inorganic clay particles. Warm, colourless water is stored and used for scouring Warm, colourless water is stored and used for scouring

and other processes.and other processes. The synthetic clay system reduced costs and removed The synthetic clay system reduced costs and removed

the threat of having to pay a surcharge to the water the threat of having to pay a surcharge to the water company.company.

Cleaner Design and Cleaner Design and Life Cycle AnalysisLife Cycle Analysis

Two important elements of cleaner technology Two important elements of cleaner technology are cleaner design and life cycle analysis (LCA).are cleaner design and life cycle analysis (LCA).

They identify exactly where in the manufacturing They identify exactly where in the manufacturing process changes can be made in order to bring process changes can be made in order to bring about environmental benefits and cost savings.about environmental benefits and cost savings.

Cleaner design aims to reduce a product’s Cleaner design aims to reduce a product’s environmental impact from cradle to grave.environmental impact from cradle to grave.

LCA evaluates the materials, energy and waste LCA evaluates the materials, energy and waste resulting from the design, manufacture, resulting from the design, manufacture, distribution, use and disposal, re use or distribution, use and disposal, re use or recycling of a product.recycling of a product.

Using Sustainable TechnologyUsing Sustainable Technology

The earth and all its resources are assets which will one The earth and all its resources are assets which will one day run out (if unmanaged).day run out (if unmanaged).

Sustainable technology using processes that preserve Sustainable technology using processes that preserve the environment for future generations.the environment for future generations.

Sustainable technology includes:Sustainable technology includes: Meeting human needs for work, energy, water and sanitation.Meeting human needs for work, energy, water and sanitation. Conserving resources.Conserving resources. Linking environmental and economic issues to decision making.Linking environmental and economic issues to decision making. Ensuring a sustainable level of population.Ensuring a sustainable level of population. Making industrial development more inclusive.Making industrial development more inclusive. Giving priority to the essential needs of the world’s poor.Giving priority to the essential needs of the world’s poor.

Environmentally Friendly Environmentally Friendly Manufacturing ProcessesManufacturing Processes

Redesigning a product / process can make Redesigning a product / process can make manufacturing more efficient.manufacturing more efficient.

It can make the company:It can make the company: Comply with environmental legislationComply with environmental legislation Have a better public image.Have a better public image. Increase profits.Increase profits. Green products are becoming more Green products are becoming more

desirable.desirable.

The Management of The Management of Waste and Pollution ControlWaste and Pollution Control

This section will cover:This section will cover: Disposal of products and pollution controlDisposal of products and pollution control Skip and tipSkip and tip


Waste is generated in the form of:Waste is generated in the form of: FabricFabric ThreadThread TrimmingsTrimmings YarnYarn PlasticPlastic CardboardCardboard PaperPaper

Fabric waste from garment cutting can amount to 10-Fabric waste from garment cutting can amount to 10-20% of fabric consumption.20% of fabric consumption.

Waste in the knitwear sector is c. 6% for shaped Waste in the knitwear sector is c. 6% for shaped knitwear.knitwear.

For cut and sew manufacture waste accounts for up to For cut and sew manufacture waste accounts for up to 20%20%

Fabric waste in the household sector is between 4-10%Fabric waste in the household sector is between 4-10%


Reducing waste improves profits.Reducing waste improves profits. Waste should be re-used, reduced or recycled.Waste should be re-used, reduced or recycled. There is a market for fabric waste. These include:There is a market for fabric waste. These include: Re-spinning companies (natural and manufactured Re-spinning companies (natural and manufactured

fibres).fibres). Felt making companiesFelt making companies Companies that make dish cloths, dusters, toys Companies that make dish cloths, dusters, toys

(stuffing).(stuffing). Companies that make fertiliser (from wool waste).Companies that make fertiliser (from wool waste). Geotextiles and the car industry (upholstery can be Geotextiles and the car industry (upholstery can be

made from recycled polyester).made from recycled polyester).

The Disposal of Products The Disposal of Products and Pollution Controland Pollution Control

90% of rubbish in the UK is buried in land fill 90% of rubbish in the UK is buried in land fill sites.sites.

5% is incinerated.5% is incinerated. 5% is recycled. This is far too low!5% is recycled. This is far too low! Companies \ designers must:Companies \ designers must: Design for recycling.Design for recycling. Design durable products that will last.Design durable products that will last. Encourage consumers to use a product until it Encourage consumers to use a product until it

runs out / wears out.runs out / wears out. Change the ‘fashion’ culture.Change the ‘fashion’ culture.

Skip and TipSkip and Tip

For the disposal of industrial waste.For the disposal of industrial waste. Goes to landfill or sewers.Goes to landfill or sewers. Landfill used to be cheap.Landfill used to be cheap. Laws are now enforcing change – landfill tax has Laws are now enforcing change – landfill tax has

increased the cost of waste disposal.increased the cost of waste disposal. In the UK the 1990 Environmental Protection Act (EPA) In the UK the 1990 Environmental Protection Act (EPA)

controls pollution.controls pollution. It covers:It covers:

Discharge to air, water and land.Discharge to air, water and land. The policy of ‘the polluter pays’.The policy of ‘the polluter pays’.

The aim is to:The aim is to: Limit harmful materials entering the environment.Limit harmful materials entering the environment. Place responsibility on companies.Place responsibility on companies. Companies can be fined huge amounts.Companies can be fined huge amounts.

The Impact of The Impact of Biotechnology on ManufactureBiotechnology on Manufacture

This section will look at:This section will look at: New processes.New processes. Genetic developmentsGenetic developments Helping the environmentHelping the environment

The Impact of Biotechnology The Impact of Biotechnology on Manufactureon Manufacture

Biotechnology – use of enzymes to create Biotechnology – use of enzymes to create products and processes.products and processes.

Like the enzymes that help us digest food, Like the enzymes that help us digest food, compost garden waste and clean clothes.compost garden waste and clean clothes.

Biological wash powders use enzymes to Biological wash powders use enzymes to wash clothes.wash clothes.

New ProcessesNew Processes In textile processing the enzymatic removal of In textile processing the enzymatic removal of

starch from woven fabrics has been used for 100 starch from woven fabrics has been used for 100 years.years.

Fermentation is used for dyeing.Fermentation is used for dyeing. Biotechnology allows companies to offer new Biotechnology allows companies to offer new

industrial processes that require:industrial processes that require: Less energyLess energy Use renewable raw materialsUse renewable raw materials

New biotechnology processes include:New biotechnology processes include: Biostoning (replaces stone washing)Biostoning (replaces stone washing) Biopolishing (makes smoother fabric)Biopolishing (makes smoother fabric)

Genetic DevelopmentsGenetic Developments Biotechnology can produce:Biotechnology can produce:

BetterBetter FasterFaster CleanerCleaner CheaperCheaper More efficient ways of doing processes.More efficient ways of doing processes.

The use of enzymes, genetic fingerprinting can be used The use of enzymes, genetic fingerprinting can be used to identify speciality fibres to prevent fraud eg for to identify speciality fibres to prevent fraud eg for labelling cashmere.labelling cashmere.

New bio-fibres produced by microbial fermentation of New bio-fibres produced by microbial fermentation of waste or low value materials such as straw and starch waste or low value materials such as straw and starch are being developed.are being developed.

Improved plant varieties are being used to produce Improved plant varieties are being used to produce fibres.fibres.

Helping the EnvironmentHelping the Environment

Biotechnology plays a part in:Biotechnology plays a part in: Colour and pesticide removal from effluent.Colour and pesticide removal from effluent. Treating odours and emissions from industrial Treating odours and emissions from industrial

plants.plants. Treating industrial, agricultural organic waste Treating industrial, agricultural organic waste

and domestic wastes through composting.and domestic wastes through composting. Cleaning up contaminated land with Cleaning up contaminated land with

bioremediation techniques.bioremediation techniques.

The Advantages and The Advantages and Disadvantages of RecyclingDisadvantages of Recycling

Recycling Textiles Recycling Textiles

Shoddy merchants trade waste fibre.Shoddy merchants trade waste fibre. Reclaimers recycle garments and yarn.Reclaimers recycle garments and yarn. Reclaimers ‘pull’ waste to produce separate Reclaimers ‘pull’ waste to produce separate

fibres which are blended to produce flock.fibres which are blended to produce flock. Flock is used for lower quality products such as Flock is used for lower quality products such as

felt and blankets.felt and blankets. Some reclaimers produce high quality fibres Some reclaimers produce high quality fibres

where the natural and manufactured fibre where the natural and manufactured fibre content is tested and certified.content is tested and certified.

AdvantagesAdvantages

Cost related.Cost related. Environmental issues related to recycling Environmental issues related to recycling

including:including: The conservation of non renewable resources.The conservation of non renewable resources. Reduced energy consumption.Reduced energy consumption. Fewer greenhouse gas emissions.Fewer greenhouse gas emissions. Cleaner air and waterways.Cleaner air and waterways. A decreased dependency on raw materials.A decreased dependency on raw materials.

DisadvantagesDisadvantages

Recycling disadvantages are mainly to do Recycling disadvantages are mainly to do with the time and effort it takes to adopt a with the time and effort it takes to adopt a structured recycling approach.structured recycling approach.

Another problem associated with recycling Another problem associated with recycling waste is the use of blended fibres making waste is the use of blended fibres making the recycling of some products very the recycling of some products very expensive or impossible.expensive or impossible.

Recycling LatexRecycling Latex Latex is used on the back of carpets to retain the Latex is used on the back of carpets to retain the

tuft.tuft. The latex is applied by passing the carpet The latex is applied by passing the carpet

through a dipping trough containing foamed through a dipping trough containing foamed latex mix (30% latex and 20% limestone powder latex mix (30% latex and 20% limestone powder in water).in water).

At the end of production the latex mix used to be At the end of production the latex mix used to be disposed of because it forms a skin if exposed to disposed of because it forms a skin if exposed to air.air.

The company are now reusing the mix because The company are now reusing the mix because they pump the leftovers into an airtight tank. they pump the leftovers into an airtight tank.

Recycling LatexRecycling Latex