Waves

Wave:Transportation of forms of energyLight, heat, and sound travel as wavesMost travel through a medium (not

electromagnetic waves)

MediumMatter through which waves pass through

Transverse Waves:Moves at right angles to the direction of the

waves energyMatter moves up and down, while energy

moves side to sideDemo:

ENERGY

MATTER

Longitudinal Wavesa.k.a. compressional wavesMedium moves in the same direction as the

energy of the waveEnergy and the matter move side to sideDemo: MATTERENERGY

CREST – high point on wave

WAVELENGTH – distance on a wave from one point to the next identical point

TROUGH – low point on a wave

AMPLITUDE - height of wave, directly related to energy

WAVELENGTH – distance on a wave from one point to the next identical point (from one compression to another)

COMPRESSIONRAREFRACTION

Reflection:Bouncing back of waveLaw of Reflection, the angle at which the

wave hits will be the same angle at which it reflects

Diffraction:The bending of waves

Wave Interference:Two or more waves coming in contact with

anotherConstructive interference produces larger

amplitudesDestructive interference produces smaller

amplitudes

Ocean Wave Creation:Winds cause the formation of wavesThe faster and longer the wind, the larger the

waveSize also depends on the fetch, the span of

water over which the wind blows

wind

Fetch

Fetch

Larger waves

Smaller waves

Ocean Wave Movement:Matter moves

in a circular pattern as energy passes through

Types of Ocean Waves:Seas – choppy water due to storm winds

resulting in peaked waves with flat troughsSwells – once away from winds crests and

troughs smooth out into typical wavesBreaks/Surf – in shallow water, waves slow

and pile up and become higher and steeper, eventually falling over

Storm Winds

SeasSwells

Breaks & Surf

Tidal Wave:A general term used to describe a large wave

which may goes against wind and wave direction

Describes:Tidal boreTidal surgeTsunami

Tidal Bore:Large movement of water due the funneling

of an incoming tide into a narrow river or bay

Tidal Surge:A temporary

increase in the volume of water, usually due to a hurricane, that causes waves to go over top of defenses

Tsunami (Tidal Wave):A tidal surge or wave caused by an

earthquake