Hand Injuries in Rock Climbers

Hand Injuries in Rock ClimbersA literature review by Matt Cools u3037453

Image retrieved from: http://www.turntillburn.ch/research/PULLPAP6.htm

http://himalman.wordpress.com/2009/06/24/beginner%E2%80%99s-guide-to-climbing-indoor-rock-climbing/

http://himalman.wordpress.com/2009/06/24/beginner%E2%80%99s-guide-to-climbing-indoor-rock-climbing/

http://geonice.com/extreme-rock-climbing-hq-photos.html

Hand InjuriesMost climbing injury literature point out that the most common climbing injuries are to the hands and the fore arms.

The most common injury in the hand is the tearing or rupture of the A2 pulley in either the ring fingers or middle fingers.

http://www.msdlatinamerica.com/ebooks/HandSurgery/sid717653.html

How Hand Injuries OccurInjuries to the A2 pulley and tendons were all described similarly in occurrence similarly by participants in the studies being examined. feet slipped while holding a small hold was the most common description.

Two studies found that the relationship between lead climbing grade and injury occurrence was linear.

Hochholzer and Schoeffl (2003) explored the difference between competition climbers and recreational climbers in relation to injury prevalence.

http://home.messiah.edu/~mw1327/climbing.html

TreatmentModern articles all have similar findings in how to grade injuries and the best methods for treating those injuries, however, earlier articles in this field recommended surgery as the only way to make a full recovery.

Most articles have a grade table showing the injury and its likely treatment once diagnosed.

All modern literature being reviewed agree that the most severe pulley or tendon injuries (ruptures) need surgery to make a close to full recovery.

All articles also had similar suggestions for treatment of lesser grade tendon injuries immobilisation, taping and rest.

All articles concluded with advising that tendon injuries need at least 2 months off from climbing in order to heal properly.

Data Collection MethodsMost of the studies review used similar methods of collecting data semi supervised questionnaires of recreational and competitive rock climbers.

The best data collection method out of the articles review was performed by Schoeffl et. Al (2003) . It used clinical evaluation as well as examination and questionnaires. Specialist diagnosis was used and a grading system for distinguishing the strength of the climber and the grade being climbed when the injury occurred.

http://www.himalayanfootsteps.com/holiday-types/adventure-holidays/rock-climbing/

ConclusionAlthough much is now know about what injuries affect climbers and how they occur there is still much more room for study in areas like recovery from tendon injuries and how taping helps or hinders recovery.

All except one study examined finger injuries in children and the differences between children and adults, this is another area with more exploration to be done.

Aging, only one article compared the effects of competition climbing vs. recreational climbing and injury rates, another area to be study more deeply.

...Finally I would suggest that data is collected in a manner similar to Schoeffl et al. (2003) where clinical diagnosis and examination are used as well as a questionnaire and a grading scale to yield more accurate results.

ReferencesBollen, S & Gunson, C. (1999) Hand Injuries in Competition Climbers. Br. J. Med. 24 (1) 16-19 . Retrieved from : http://bjsm.bmj.com/content/24/1/16.full.pdf+html

Hochholzer, T & Schoeffl, V. (2003) One Move too Many. Ebenhausen, Germany: LOCHNER-VERLAG.

Schoeffl, V., Hochholzer, T., Winkleman, H., Strecker, W. (2003) Pulley Injuries in Rock Climbers. Wilderness and Environmental Medicine. 14 94-100

Wright, D., Royale, T., Marshall, T. (2001) Indoor Rock Climbing: Who Gets Injured? Br F Sports Med 35 181-185