THE DOME HILL (TOOMPEA)

Henrik Salum

EARLY HISTORYA limestone cliff (appr. 48 m)

Kalev’s grave (legend)

11th c. – a wooden fortress (to protect the port)

Crusades (Drang nach Osten)

1219 – King Waldemar II of Denmark• Dannebrog• Danish King’s Garden

Danish King’s Garden

DESCRIPTIONSince 1219 the seat of power for foreign forces (Denmark, Germany, Sweden, Russia)

Noblemen, clergymen, a small number of artisans

6 June 1684 – a fire destroyed most of the buildings (except for the fortress)

The Dome Hill and the Lower Town autonomous up to 1877

THE SMALL FORTRESSCastrum minus– the southernmost part (the Dome Hill castle)

13th c. – a stone fortress (Volquin) built by the Brotherhood of the Knights of the Sword

14th c. – re-built as a convent-type castle with a courtyard (the Livonian Order)

THE DOME HILL CASTLE

Four towers originally - Tall Hermann (50 m),

Landskrone, Pilsticke, Stür der Kerl (no longer there)

16th c. – the castle lost its defensive role (each rule rebuilt it as a representative building)

18th c. – Catherine II ordered a palace to be built for her governor (architect Johann Schultz, late baroque)

THE DOME HILL CASTLE

1920-1922 – re-built as a parliament building (architects Habermann and Johanson)

1918 – the Estonian flag

1940-1989 – the flag of the Estonian Soviet Socialist Republic

1989 – the Estonian flag

THE SMALL FORTRESS

TAL

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HE

RM

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PARLIAMENT

THE RUSSIAN-BYZANTINE ALEXANDER NEVSKY

CATHEDRAL

Built in 1894-1900 (architect Mikhail Preobrazhensky)

Meant to overshadow everything else

Alexander Nevsky - the Prince of Novgorod, military victories over the Swedish and German forces (13th c.)

THE BIG FORTRESSCastrum majus – the northern part of the Dome Hill

Defences built in the 14th c., demolished after the fire

The radial network of streets (13th c.), still unchanged

THE DOME SCHOOL (TOOMKOOL)

Founded in 1319 (Erich Menved – king of Denmark)

Since 1765 belonged to the Knighthood

Famous students: Karl Ernst von Baer, Adam Johann von Krusenstern

Re-built in the 19th c.

Voldemar Panso

ST MARY’S GUILDFounded in 1407

A religious organisation until the 16th c.

Became a guild of artisans after the Reformation

The guildhouse built in 1517

The current façade from the 19th c. (neo-classicism)

The Dome School St Mary’s Guild

THE KNIGHTHOOD BUILDING

The Knighthood – a governing body of noblemen of German origin (from all over Estonia)

Partly neo-renaissance (19th c.), partly baroque (older)

NO BLEMEN AND THEIR C ITY RESIDENCES

Country mansions in summer

Income – land property, distilleries, army generals

City residences in winter• Entertainment• Classicism from the 19th c.

CITY RESIDENCESThe residence of von Toll

The residence of von Uexküll• “Stadtluft macht frei!” (City air makes free).• Beheaded on 7 May 1535 at Harju Gate

The residence of von Ungern-Sternberg• Historicism• The origin of the name (legend)

CITY RESIDENCESThe residence of von Kaulbars – the most striking example of neo-classicism (architect Carl Ludwig Engel)

• Hexastyle Ionic portico facing the Lower Town• The courtyard facing the Dome Hill (Parentum

voto ac favore – with parents’ good wishes and favour)

• the office of the Chancellor of Justice

CITY RESIDENCESThe residence of von Stenbock (Stenbock Palace)

• Originally meant as a courthouse and prison• Ordered by the Russian state• Debts – the building given to Jakob Pontus

Stenbock (residence)• Architect Johann Mohr, built 1787-1792• Houses the Estonian government

The residence of von Toll

The residence of von Uexküll

The residence of von Kaulbars

Stenbock Palace

WHY DOES TALLINN LIMP?

The Long Leg• One of the first paved streets (14th c.)• A wall built in the 15th c. (half of the street – the

Dome Hill, half of it – the Lower Town)

The Short Leg• A thick wooden door with iron bolts (the Dome

Hill vs the Lower Town) – belonged to the Lower Town

• Built as a staircase in the 19th c.

The Long Leg The Short Leg

ST MARY’S CATHEDR AL (THE D OME CHUR CH)

The junction of eight streets

Patron saint – St Mary the Virgin

Building started in the 13th c. (one of the oldest)

First mentioned in 1234 (a bloody confrontation between the Danish feudals and the Brotherhood of Swords)

Re-built as a basilica in the 1430s (Gothic style)

ST MARY’S CATHEDR AL (THE D OME CHUR CH)

Heavily damaged in the fire (1684)

Spire and helmet – baroque (1779)

Until 1565 a Catholic cathedral, since then a Lutheran church

ST MARY’S CATHEDR AL (THE D OME CHUR CH)

Otto Johann Thuve (the Don Juan of Tallinn)

The altar – 1696, Christian Ackermann, baroque

The altar painting – 1866, Christ on the Crucifix by Eduard von Gebhardt

The pulpit – 1686, Ackermann, baroque (the statue of Moses, paintings of apostles and evangelists)

ST MARY’S CATHEDR AL (THE D OME CHUR CH)

Tombstones and monuments• The family loge/box of Manteuffel (18th c.)• The family loge/box of Patkul (18th c.)• Sarcophagus of Carl Heinrichson von Horn and

his wife (slab – 1601, Arent Passer’s workshop)• Sarcophagus of Otto von Uexküll (slab – 1601,

Arent Passer’s workshop)• Sarcophagus of Pontus de la Gardie (16th c.,

Passer, renaissance)

ST MARY’S CATHEDR AL (THE D OME CHUR CH)

• Monument for Oloff Ryning zu Toresio (Hans von Aken)

• Tombstone of Caspar von Tiesenhausen and his wife Märta Oxenstjerna (Arent Passer)

• A marble obelisk for Ferdinand von Tiesenhausen (“From father to son”)

• Unfinished sarcophaguses for Fabian von Fersen and Otto Reinhold von Taube (17th c., Johan Gustav Stockenberg)

ST MARY’S CATHEDR AL (THE D OME CHUR CH)

• A mable statue for Samuel Greigh (1788, Giacome Quarenghi, neo-classical)

• Monument for Adam Johann von Krusenstern (1848, Johann Gottfried Exner, pseudogothic)

• Two tombs for the butchers’ corporation and the shoemakers’ corporation (18th c.)

• Tombs of the Taube family (16th c.)• 107 coat of arms epitaphs (Elert Thiele,

Ackermann and his workshop)