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WelcomeGood Afternoon…
Arnab Shahriar Nirjhor
Dept. of Textile Engineering
Tinting & Over Dyeing
Tinting & Over DyeingAfter denim pant is being faded, the pants have dyed with very light color(.001% or .002%yellow or pink). This dyeing process is called Tinting/Over dyeing .This process is applied only on garments, not in fabric or yarn.
Necessity of Tinting• For making new fashions.• To give the finished garments a better
appearance.• For inventing a new process
Tinting and over dyeing can be
highlighted by the following
way:• This type of process is done after different types of washing
before softening.• Normally after Acid wash, Stone wash, Stone enzyme wash,
Sand Blasting, Enzyme wash etc. tinting & over dyeing is done.• Tinting & over dyeing is done with Direct dyes or Reactive dyes.• Due to tinting and over dyeing, the white/base area colored
with required dye yellow, Brown, Orange etc.• As a result, new color effect is produced in the garments.• If direct dye is used then color fixing treatment should be done
at the end of dying process. In case over dyeing/Tinting with reactive dyes, color fastness is good hence no after treatment is required to fix the reactive dyes.
Tint Denim Garments Without Changing the Tone of Indogo:Tinting is achieved by application of the direct/reactive dyes. In case of direct dyes, the second application would be that of dye-fixing agent for an adequate fastness. In case of reactives, the fixing chemical goes along with the dyestuff. After the application, the treated garment is dried in the air or in a tumble drier for adequate fastness. If tinting were done by immersion method, the tint would be all over. However, if a localized area is the target, a spray method is used. In either case the tinting, as the term signifies, is done very lightly to achieve a particular cast, either overall or localized. If indigo does not change tone would look like a print with a sharp boundary. When tone changes fad gradient, the effect looks more aesthetically appealing and is considered desirable. The tone-change should be gradual and not abruptive.
Tinting With White Discharge Effect on Denim
GarmentsIn case of white discharge tinting the route would start with desizing-biopolishing on gray garment, peroxide bleaching after biopolishing being optional. After drying the garment, a potassium permanganate spray is given to areas where white discharge is aimed at. After air-drying for about 10-15 minutes, a neutralization step consisting of provide-acetic acid is given which is followed by hot and cold rinses. In case of spray tinting the garment will have to be dried first, whereas for overall tinting, dyeing the method could be followed wet-on-wet. Finally the finishing and drying would complete the process.
Tinting by Direct Dye• First Step: After different wet processing i.e.
Acid wash, Stone wash, Enzyme wash, Stone enzyme wash, Bleach wash take 60 kg garment for Tinting & over dyeing.
Water at L : R = 1: 7.............. 420 LiterRun the Machine.Temperature................. 50 - 80°cDir. Brown GTL - at 0.04%........... 24 Gms.Dir. Orange ZTL- at 0.01%........... 6 Gms.Add Salt at 20 gm / liter ............ 8.40 kg.Add Leveling agent at 0.5% /........ 210 gm.Time................................ 10 to 30 mts.Rinse by cold water 3 minutes.
Tinting by Direct Dye• Second Step: Fixing Batch size .............................. 60 kg.Water at L : R = 1: 7.............. 420 LiterRun the Machine.Temperature................. 50°cAdd fixing agent at 0.8 %(owf) ... 480 gm.Time............................................ 10 mts.
Tinting by Direct Dye• Third Step: Softening.
Batch size.................... 60 kg.Water at L : R = 1 : 7 ............................ 420 LiterAdd Acetic Acid at 0.6 gm/liter ............ 250 gm.Add Cationic softener at 1 gm/liter ...... 420 gm.Time................................ 10 mts.Drop the liquor.Then unload the garments on trolley.
Tinting by Direct Dye• Fourth Step: Hydro extractor machine.
Hydroextractor machine is used to remove excess water from the garments.
• Fifth Step: - Dryer machine. After hydro extraction the garments are sent to drying m/c for complete drying.
• Sixth Step: - Quality & Delivery After drying the garments go to quality checking & rectify washing fault and then good one delivery.
Tinting by Reactive dye:
• First Step: After different wet processing i.e. Acid wash, Stone wash, Enzyme wash, Stone enzyme wash, Bleach wash take 60 kg garment for Tinting & over dyeing.
Water at L : R = 1: 7.... 420 LiterRun the Machine.Temperature................. 60°cReactive RedReactive Yellow - Brown ......... 100 gm.Reactive Black –Leveling agent - at 0.5 gm / liter.......240 gm.Salt - at 20 gm / liter........... 8.40 kg.Soda ash at 10 gm / liter ............ 4.20 kg.Time................................ 20 to 30 mts.Drop the liquor.
Tinting by Reactive dye:
• Second Step: Fixing.
Batch size.................... 60 kg.Water at L: R = 1 : 8 .............. 480 LiterRun the Machine.Temperature.................................. 50°cAdd fixing agent at1 gm / liter..... 480 gm.Time............................................. 10 mts.Drop the liquor.
Tinting by Reactive dye:
• Third Step: Softening. Batch size.................... 60 kg.Water at L : R = 1: 7.............. 420 LiterAdd Acetic Acid at 0.6 gm/liter ............ 250 gm.Add Cationic softener at 1 gm/liter ...... 420 gm.Time................................ 10 mts.Drop the liquor. Then unload the garments on trolley
Tinting by Reactive dye:
• Fourth Step: Hydro extractor machine. Hydro extractor machine is used to remove excess water from the garments.
• Fifth Step: - Dryer machine. After hydro extraction the garments are sent to drying m/c for complete drying.
• Sixth Step: - Quality & Delivery. After drying the garments go to quality checking & rectify washing fault and then good one delivery.
Precautions– Garments design should be made from engineering point of view. – If garment is made after Desizing, scouring and bleaching of grey fabrics and
then dyed in garments form, then the possibility of problems will be reduced. – If possible, garments should be made from the grey fabrics of the same lot and
same source. – The seams should not be too tight or too loose especially in the areas
containing elastic like waistband, cuff etc which may create irregular dye penetration resulting irregular dyeing.
– The garments which are produced from woven and knitted fabrics combinedly, the knit fabric should be preshrunk; otherwise seam pucker may develop after garments dyeing.
– If the garment fabric is of mixed fibers, during garments dyeing, dye selection should be done carefully, having equal dye pick up to avoid irregular dyeing.
– Poor quality metals should not be used as accessories in the garments, which may be damaged during dyeing by the action of salt and alkali. If any metal component is used in the garment should be made from nickel and its alloy.
Precautions– Sewing thread used for making the garments should be of same fiber like the
garment fabric, otherwise color difference may occur between the garment fabric and sewing thread.
– Button used in the garment should be selected carefully. Button made from casin, cellulose, nylon etc. may be damaged during garments dyeing but PET button is saved in this respect.
– If elastic is used in the garments and the elastic is made from the natural rubber or polyurethane fiber like Lycra may create problem during garments dyeing. To avoid such problem dye should be selected to be copper free. During bleaching, polyurethane fibers may be damaged by the chlorine. PET type electrometric fiber is Safe in per oxide bleaching.
– Interlining is used in the most garments. Only those interlinings should be used in the garments to be dyed only recommended for the garment dyeing. Otherwise the performance of interlining may be destroyed.
– The garments made from compactly woven cotton fabric should be dyed with hot brand reactive dyes; otherwise problem of irregular dye penetration may occur.
Thank youfor
your patience