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Danny Yehia offers a go-to guide for replacing your windows. He discusses the correct way to measure your frame. how to remove the sash and jamb liners, prepping and insulating, caulking, installation, inserting shims, priming, painting and more. Check out this step-by-step guide to learn how to replace your old windows properly.
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Replacing Windows: Step-‐By-‐Step Guide
If you're living in an older house, there will come a @me when you have to replace the windows.
The wood in an older house begins to warp, affec@ng not only how the windows look and operate but also the insula@on that they provide.
This ar@cle will walk you through all of the steps necessary to replace those windows correctly the first @me (without having to hire a
contractor).
For this guide, I am assuming that your window frames are solid; if this
is the case, you simply need to insert replacement units.
To replace window frames, please check back for further instruc@ons.
There are three types of replacement windows: insert
replacements, sash kits and full-‐frame units.
We're going to be working with an insert replacement.
Step 1: Measure
Before going any further into the process, make sure that you
measure out the windows for your replacements.
To start, measure the inside width of the old window frame (jamb to
jamb).
You should do this in three places: the top, the middle and the boOom.
If the measurements are different, write down whichever is the smallest out of the three.
AQer that, measure the height of the frame.
Start from the top of the sill to the underside of the head jamb.
Again, do this in three places -‐ leQ, center and right -‐ and record the
smallest measurement.
Check the squareness of the frame by measuring the diagonals.
If there is a difference of more than 1/4 of an inch, you're going to need to make adjustments to the frame.
Use an angle-‐measuring tool to determine the slope of the sill.
Record this as well.
Step 2: Removing the Sash and Jamb Liners
Removing the old sash from the window frame requires either prying it off or unscrewing t he
interior wooden stops.
Start with the boOom sash; aQer the boOom is removed, take out the par@ng beads so that the
upper sash is free.
Press on the jamb liners and pull the top sash forward to free it.
Next, take off the jamb liners.
Use a flat bar to pry them free and remove any remaining
wooden stops from the frame.
Step 3: Ge_ng Your Frame Prepared
There's going to be a mess leQ of old paint and loose wood.
Scrape that off and then patch any holes or cracks with wood
puOy.
Sand the jambs smooth so that you have a clean finish.
Finish it up with some primer and paint.
Check if there are original sash weights in place -‐ if so, remove them and insulate behind the
frame.
You need to unscrew the access panel on each side to pull the
weights out.
Step 4: Insula@on
Polyurethan foam is great for windows.
It's much more effec@ve at blocking air than fiberglass foam.
It's important, however, to only use low-‐pressure that expands
very minimally.
Make sure that the foam is produced solely for windows and
doors.
Drill holes into the jamb, one at each end and one in the middle,
on all four sides.
Now for the fun part...
shoot the foam into each hole un@l it begins to ooze out.
Don't forget to fill in the sash-‐weight pockets that we emp@ed.
Let the foam sit for at least 6 hours so that it can harden; then, break off the excess foam so that
you have a flush surface.
Step 5: Caulking and Installing the Window
We're about to install the window.
First, however, we want to caulk the exposed inner face.
Apply it to the blind stops on the top and sides of the frame, as well as beads along the window
sill.
Finally, it's @me to install the window.
You want to be working from the inside of the room, placing the boOom onto the sill and @pping it forward into the opening.
Press the window forward, making sure it is @ght against the exterior casings or blind stops.
Step 6: Screw It In and Inser@ng Shims
Have someone hold the window in place.
Using a 2-‐inch screw, loosely aOach the upper side jamb and
the framing.
Do not @ghten it too much -‐ it should be just enough to hold
the frame in place.
Grab some shims and insert accordingly under the sill and
behind the side jambs.
You want to make sure that the window is in the center of the
space.
Measuring diagonally, these measurements should be the
same.
Take a u@lity knife and trim the excess.
Step 7: More Caulking, More Priming, More Pain@ng
Now, operate from the outside of the window.
Measure gaps in the frame and casing.
If any gaps are less than 1/4 of an inch, fill them with the
elastomeric caulk.
Use a rubber backer rod for anything larger than 1/4 of an
inch.
Next, head back inside and fill gaps with the expanding foam.
Install your window stops, prime and paint.
Step 8: Sit Back and Enjoy
You worked hard.
Take some @me to relax.
Stare out the window.