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08/2015
Included in this issue
of ST is the Premier
issue of Steve
Gillick’s brand new
magazine…
covering Steve’s
recent journey along
The Wild Atlantic
Way
GILLICK’S
WORLD
The DESIRE to travel starts early and continues throughout one’s
life – are you marketing to Generation Z?
Share your money making ideas
in SELLING TRAVEL.
CONTACT
Steve Crowhurst [email protected]
250-738-0064 www.sellingtravel.net
Publisher:
SMP Training Co. www.sellingtravel.net
Contributors
Steve Crowhurst SELLING TRAVEL is owned and published by Steve Crowhurst, SMP Training Co. All Rights Reserved. Protected by International Copyright Law. SELLING TRAVEL can be shared, forwarded, cut and pasted but not sold, resold or in any way monetized. Using any images or content from SELLING TRAVEL must be sourced as follows: “Copyright SMP Training Co. www.sellingtravel.net” SMP Training Co. 568 Country Club Drive, Qualicum Beach, BC, Canada, V9K-1G1 Note: Steve Crowhurst is not responsible for outcomes based on how you interpret or use the ideas in SELLING TRAVEL. T: 250-738-0064.
4 EDITORIAL
5 HOW TO SELL MORE IRELAND
22 FAITH BASED TOURS & PERSONAL JOURNEYS
25 GILLICKS WORLD – IRELAND’S WILD ATLANTIC WAY
57 THE TRAVEL INSTITUTE – DESTINATION SPECIALIST ITALY
58 HOW-TO E-GUIDES
59 READ MORE ME HERE
60 CLASSIFIEDS
THE HOW-TO MAGAZINE FOR TRAVEL TRADE PROFESSIONALS
Please note that Selling Travel, owned and published by SMP Training Co, is not connected in any way to Selling Travel magazine published by BMI Publishing Ltd., and based in the UK. The latter publication focuses entirely on destination and travel/tourism product training and is circulated solely to the UK and Ireland travel industries. To benefit from this resource visit www.sellingtravel.co.uk and be sure to subscribe.
Attention Suppliers: Advertising in SELLING TRAVEL reaches the serious business-minded travel agent. Promote your products and services using Selling Travel’s unique promotional formula – you write the articles on how to sell your own products offering step-by-step selling tips, tools and techniques that you know have worked for your agency accounts. Full page rates range from $300 to $425 based on number of insertions. Remember, if you can’t sell it to them, they can’t sell it for you!
Featured in this issue of selling
travel… steve gillick’s premier
issue of gillick’s world
COMING IN THE SEPTEMBER ISSUE…
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10131503-Nexion_Ad.indd 1 10/29/13 2:18 PM
The
WILL
to
Selling The Emerald Isle This issue of Selling Travel focuses on ideas that will help you sell more tours to Ireland and what
a coincidence that Steve Gillick is publishing his new magazine and his premier issue is also about
Ireland.
Even better yet, Steve has offered Selling Travel the opportunity to insert his magazine GILLICK’S
WORLD here in Selling Travel. A bonus for Selling Travel readers because my recent trip to Ireland
was quite localized whereas Steve Gillick travelled The Wild Atlantic Way. So, plenty of travel
information and how-to-sell ideas.
Please note that The Travel Institute is now the main outlet for my series of how-to eGuides and
you can read more inside this issue. If you have a discount arranged directly with Selling Travel
that discount will still be honoured – just contact me directly by email with what you need.
Here’s to your continued success in SELLING TRAVEL.
Best regards.
Steve Crowhurst, CTC, CTM Hon. [email protected]
www.sellingtravel.net
SALES & MARKETING TIPS, TOOLS & TECHNIQUES FOR ALL TRAVEL TRADE PROFESSIONALS
Steve Crowhurst, Publisher
ell now, it’s nice to use a Celtic looking script when you are marketing the country
of Ireland. But where do you find them? Let’s make this the first step in how to
sell more Ireland. As you will know by now, everything is online. So that’s where
we go to find what we need. We Google something like FREE GAELIC FONTS then
stand back to wait and see what pops up. Here’s the one I selected.
http://www.fontspace.com/category/gaelic
Fontspace works so easily. You search, you select, you click Download, then, on the toolbar like this:
click on the Save down arrow and click on Save and Open. You will see an
icon that’s flashing, click on that to find your ZIP file. Click on the file and
another window will open showing the fonts and the INSTALL button.
Click that and once that is done, your new Irish font will be located in your
Font file. Now you can type and select the font as you normally do.
Should you want and need Celtic designs, Fontspace offers these too. Here’s a sample:
Right. Looks like that’s done and dusted. Now we can head off to view
where I went and how you can sell it to your clients. Let’s go.
W
epending upon where you live and
sell from, your clients could be flying
to Ireland direct or stopping off
enroute. Most countries offer a direct
service however, many times your clients
will want to stop off somewhere and that
might just be London, UK or Scotland, Wales
and points in Europe.
Following the route we took, let’s go to
London, UK and take a look at how to get to
Shannon, Ireland. Out of Gatwick Airport
then, your clients can fly Ryan Air to Shannon
or Dublin. We went to Shannon.
Now the pricing of Ryan Air flights is crazy to
say the least. Crazy good that is. If your
clients are not running on a tight schedule
you can suggest flight dates and times that
will cost around $20 - $50. Sure it’s a short
flight but still, the rates are good.
As you know, the extras mount up when you
start packing ten bags, buy food on board
and select a diamond bracelet during the
one hour flight! Ryan Air likes to hawk
scratch and win tickets too – but hey, your
clients might win big.
The departure gates at Gatwick work like
most others. You sit and wait and then
scramble to reach your gate once it is
posted. Your client’s boarding pass needs to
be scanned a couple of times – after check in
and at the gate. The security gadget looks
like this:
On the small screen the instructions to Look
Up will appear… and as for me, well I looked
up… at the ceiling, looking for something
that might guide me. Well in my case, I
received an officious tap on the shoulder, an
arm came past the right side of my head and
the hand pointed to the pole in front and to
the right of me (not exactly UP I might add)
accompanied by the terse word: ‘THERE!”
Caution: the camera does not work if you are
wearing glasses, so warn your clients about
this or they’ll receive another stiff armed,
terse worded direction.
With all instructions followed, your clients
will be on their way. Just make sure you tell
them this tidbit about scanning their
boarding pass and looking into the camera.
You can sell Ireland to the North and
or to the South, sell both, add in a trip
to the UK or points in Europe too. Let
Ireland become the HUB for your
client’s next vacation.
Start Promoting That You Sell Ireland
No time like the present. Wherever you
advertise and promote your services just be
sure to add in the fact that you also sell
Ireland. Simple enough to do to attract
attention. No need to state but I will, that
product knowledge is the key to success and
that means you’ll need to go and experience
firsthand what Ireland has to offer and even
more so if you intend to specialize in your
own passions – whatever they might be.
Here’s a few ideas to help you on this
journey to sell more Ireland, starting with
Bunratty Castle.
D
Bunratty Castle as shown above is so close
to Shannon Airport that you can advise your
clients that they could stop off as they arrive
or depart. Either way it’s a must see and
especially for any clients named McNamara
and O’Brien who once owned Bunratty.
Which leads us to a key marketing strategy
for selling Ireland. We’ll come back to
Bunratty in a moment.
Name Marketing
You can do this with any country actually,
however as you know, the Irish have over
the centuries emigrated worldwide and that
means only one thing: you probably have an
Irish community in your selling area.
With a little work you can discover the top
ten Irish names in your area of the world. To
find out you can click to this link but beware
some people might argue their name is more
widely known.
http://www.irishgenealogical.org/page/igsi-
links-100-most-common-surnames
Here’s the top ten from the 100 most
common list… and if we think about Bunratty
once again you can see that the O’Brien
name is listed as number 6 and dear old
MacNamara comes in at number 94.
Using surnames to market a country is quite
easy and with so many people looking for
their ancestors these days you have many
options when promoting your tours. For
instance:
CALLING ALL O’BRIENS!
If your name is O’BRIEN,
you may want to
check this out.
After that you can promote your tour to
Ireland. Now if you discover there are
literally hundreds of people named O’Brien
in your area then you could go ahead and
name your tour THE O’BRIEN TOUR of
Ireland. You might also market that named
tour nationwide.
Social Media
Using social media when a name is going to
be mentioned is one way to have your
marketing go viral. For sure, any O’Brien that
receives your Facebook post will forward it
to their Irish pals.
The Hunt for Images
If you have not yet visited Ireland yourself
you can always contact people like Steve
Gillick to purchase his photographs or you
can click to websites like wikimedia where I
found the Bunratty image below. Here’s that
link – make sure you read and understand
what “commons” actually means:
https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:B
unratty_Castle_-_South_Solar_-_Ireland.jpg
You are generally free to use the images you
find there, however there is always a request
to attribute the image. As you can see below
I have added John Menard’s name as the
photographer. Be sure to attribute any free
imagery you locate.
Google Street View
If it’s a panoramic view you want you might
try Google’s Street View and capture the
image full screen or if you use SnagIt, you
can screen capture the section of the image
you want and need. You can and should link
this image to Google and also note where
you found it.
Photographer: John Menard
County Libraries
The link below will take you to historic
photographs and collections held by the
County Clare Library. You can contact such
libraries and gain permission to use their
images in your marketing. Once again you
should attribute the image to the library.
http://foto.clarelibrary.ie/fotoweb/Default.fwx
Adding FX To Your Images
Your marketing needs to stand out from the
overall travel agency crowd and usually this
means adapting the images you use and to
upgrade your storytelling. The goal is to try
and out-market the competition who are
using the same old, day-by-day itinerary
plans, a few fuzzy images and too much text.
There are more than enough software
programs to help you add flare to your
images. To use poor quality images is just
plain laziness. Assuming you know your
audience well, you can judge whether a
black and white image versus colour will help
to push them to read past the cover.
The image of the tomb above has been
Tangled FX’d. This is an app that works on a
smart phone and tablet. You can upload
your images to Dropbox for instance - your
tablet will download them and then you can
FX the images, Save As, and then export from
your Dropbox account back to your PC to
copy and paste into your brochure. A few
extra steps, but then that’s where the
winning difference will be.
Quinn Abbey from the
Schorman Collection
Above: A fascinating view of Ballyportry Castle from the Country Clare Library’s Westropp Collection and below as it is today via
Google Street View. The castle has been renovated and to the point where you can actually rent a room! Yes, it’s a hotel. Imagine
the renovation on that job! Here’s where you can obtain more information: http://www.ballyportry.ie/downloads.html
Fantastic stormy views like this one
are great for promoting photography tours.
Creating Something Different to Sell You can always sell from your preferred supplier’s Ireland tour brochures however more and more travel agents are starting to offer custom tour services. If you are skilled at arranging FIT products then here’s one idea for you when it comes to marketing Ireland. As an example I’ll refer to that old image of Ballyportry Castle I found on the County Clare Library website. First of all I thought the image was a sketch then realized it was a photograph. It has be dated prior to the 1960’s as it was then that an American chap purchased it and started to renovate it. Fast forward to 2015 and it is now a hotel. Compare the black and white shot with the Google Street View I captured off the screen. So what if you had found this information what would you do? Well, you could start by investigating any other castles that are now hotels and build a medieval tour with built in banquets and the like. You could then market your custom tour or suggest it when a customer says, “We need something unique, what have you got for us?”
FYI: Here’s a few lines from a recent article I found that mentions Ballyportry Castle: Ballyportry Castle is a restored 15th-century castle that sleeps eight adults within its six bedrooms. The distinct Gaelic tower house has a fully equipped modern kitchen and a great hall, which seats up to 12 for dining. Arrangements can be made to hire a local chef to prepare meals. A unique spiral stone staircase leads to the bedrooms and baths. From the top of the castle, enjoy panoramic views of the areas seven lakes. Sounds very good doesn’t it? The location is also close to The Burren and this is an area that is a must-see. I was there in May of this year and I’ll tell you about it in a moment. The Burren features 1,000-year-old stone walls, ring forts and tranquil lakes.
To finish off Ballyportry Castle - it can accommodate short stays up to a full week and this is DIY – unless your clients request that a local chef cook for them. The rates for one week are around $3,000 +/-.
The Burren For your adventuresome clients The Burren and surrounding areas are going to thrill them. Depending upon the month they visit and the weather on the day/s they visit, they should return with stories to tell. For sure you could arrange an artist and/or photographer’s tour. You’ll no doubt find some of your clients have an interest in wild flowers and possibly desolate landscapes. Well, The Burren has it all.
The Burren Selfie
The one challenge in sending a client to this
unique area of Ireland is, I have to say, the
tourists. When I was standing there, all
alone taking in the landscape and looking at
the stonewalls, suddenly a 50 seater coach
drove up and as I look back towards the road
a horde of yakking tourists pour out of said
coach and into my space. From solitude to
multitude. Yes I know, it’s the business and
industry we serve, however, at moments like
that, I do shudder. My reaction: I took a
picture of them!!
The Burren could be one more destination
for your Custom FIT clientele with a desire to
visit Ireland but not do the typical tourist
spots.
Most coaches stop for not even an hour and
then head off to the next stop. Your tour
would more than likely have your clients
accommodated close by so they can spend
days exploring the area. Although the land is
desolate, it is owned which means you just
cannot run ragged. Your clients will need to
gain permission to go beyond the No
Trespassing signs outside the areas
designated for visitors.
The tourist horde that invaded my space and
on the horizon have ventured onto private
property. Do not let your clients do this!
The Burren is famous for its wild flowers
and attracts people the world over
to view them.
The Galway Greyhound Stadium
What an excellent evening this was. Family
entertainment for sure and as long as your
clients like a wee flutter during their travels
this might just hit the spot. The dining area
was wonderful, glassed in as you can see and
overlooking the racetrack. Betting was two-
Euro and lots of fun. The serious punters
were downstairs by the racetrack itself. The
food was excellent and there was plenty of
it. Too much in fact. Service also a 10!
Seascapes and Coastlines
Here’s a great tour idea and especially for
your soft adventure enthusiasts who like to
get out and about to walk the coasts and
combine that outdoor experience with other
hobbies such as photography.
Ireland has more coastline than you need.
You’ll never run out. You might just market a
Seascape & Coastline Tour in name only and
then arrange the destination to suit your
client’s needs depending upon which area of
Ireland they would like to tour. OR, you
publish a full blown program and sell it
nationwide.
You can work closely with the Irish Tourist
Board office located wherever you are. Make
that a priority. Find out where the closest
office is to you and then introduce yourself.
Find out exactly what the Irish Tourist Board
can do to assist in getting your marketing
approach on the right track.
Music and More
Irish music is known the world over. Many of
your clients will have an interest in it and
many more might just be wanting to learn it.
Some might want to take lessons. So much
to explore here and especially if you yourself
have an interest in music.
With any specialty it takes time to get it right
and to learn all there is to know. Your Irish
contacts are very important.
Don’t forget the pubs where bands are
playing most weekends. Help your clients
immerse themselves into the Irish culture
once again depending upon their interests.
When it comes to music and pubs, the two
go together and your clients will certainly get
their fill of excellent music, ale and pub grub.
Interested in Selling Religious Tours
to Ireland? It’s coming up!
GREAT GRAPHICS
When you need a source of quality graphics you can take advantage of my
account with GRAPHICSTOCK. Click here to access your discount.
SEASCAPES AND COASTLINE TOURS…
YOU’LL NEVER RUN OUT OF CONTENT!
This has to be one of the most beautiful statues I have ever seen of the Crucifixion. It is so finely
made and the location of it, too, sets the mood as the sky changes in the distance. You might
even be able to imagine that very day as you stand there with the backdrop of a darkening sky.
This statue is located in Shanakyle and my
connection to this place is family related. My
Uncle Dick is buried here. Part of our visit to
Ireland was to complete a personal journey
more so than one that was based on faith.
Still, there’s a lot of faith going on as you no
doubt know, and you cannot help but be
interested in it.
The most important thing of course is the
fact that your clients are VERY interested in
faith based travel and what better place to
send them then Ireland.
The Family Faith
Hopefully you have read my e-Guide on how
to go about selling tours of faith, and you
may also have a list of preferred suppliers
who have off-the-shelf tours you can sell. All
of that is good. What’s best, is that you offer
your FIT services to arrange a family faith
based tour.
This means you would be arranging your
client’s travels to fit exactly where they want
to and need to go. They too, I am sure, will
be visiting a few long lost souls and members
of their family with Irish roots.
Once you have the information as to where
a family wants to travel, you can make the
arrangements direct, or work closely with
the group department of your preferred.
The Religious and Personal Journey
Let’s move from the faith based tour to one
that is based on religion with a personal
need. This booking could have a historical
element to it, or an archeological connection
or an artistic basis. For instance, I do enjoy
looking at the variety of headstones and
crosses and the crucifixion.
Your clients wouldn’t actually know such a
tour exists or that you can arrange such a
personal trip unless you promote the fact. So
heads up – you have to make some noise to
attract the right client’s attention.
The sign of the cross will always attract a
religious person or someone interested in
religion.
Next…
Start to build an image bank of all things
religious so that you have your own images
when you need them. If you decide to
arrange tours to Ireland then you can work
closely as you may know with the Irish
Tourist Board. Most departments of tourism
have stock images that are free to use when
the purpose will benefit tourism.
Your Own Personal Journey
If you have one, package it and take 20
clients with you.
Here’s where you will find more information on how to
go about promoting and selling faith-based, spiritual
and personal journey travel.
CLICK ON THE COVER IMAGE TO PREVIEW AND PURCHASE
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Castles are built…
Riding to Omey Island
Cnoc Suain –The Restful Hill
The Doolin Cliff Walk
Secrets of Scenic Slea Head
The Power of Mizen Head
Plus Valentia Island, Sneem, Culinary Finds and more.
The Magazine for Those who Choose to Explore the World
Map of my route, starting at Shannon, heading north to Galway, Recess and Cleggan, then south to Mizen Head, east to Cork and north to Newmarket-on-Fergus and Shannon Airport.
Map courtesy of Tourism Ireland www.ireland.com/wild-atlantic-way
Volume 1, Number 1 Revised July, 2015
Greetings from the Publisher The Wildest that Ireland has to offer
Page 3
In our Togetherness, Castles are Built Page 5 Riding to Omey Island: An afternoon in Cleggan Page 11 Cnoc Suain-The Restful Hill Page 13 The Doolin Cliff Walk Page 15 A Visit to Valentia Island Page 19 Secrets of Scenic Slea Head Page 21 Exploring the Knot in Sneem Page 26
The Power of Mizen Head Page 27
The ‘Teardrop’ at Mizen Head Back Cover
Plus: Hotels-Page 4, Foods-Page 18, Street Signs-Page 29
Front Cover Photo: Dingle Harbour, just as the sun is rising
Gillick’s World, Gone to Ireland is one of a series of e-magazines for those who choose to explore the world.
Gillick’s World, a division of Talking Travel publications, is owned, operated and published by Steve Gillick. All Rights Reserved. Protected by International and Canadian Copyright Law. Gone to Ireland can be shared, forwarded, cut
and pasted but not sold, resold or in any way monetized. Permission is required for the use of any images or content from Gone to Ireland©Steve Gillick
Gillick’s World is a division of Talking Travel, 500 Duplex Ave., Ste 2210Toronto, ON Canada M4R 1V6
To subscribe to this publication for free or for inquiries, please contact [email protected]
R 1V6 [email protected]
Wecome to Gillick’s World!
This is the premiere issue of a new online magazine that features my favourite destinations. My stories and photos reflect the passion and enthusiasm that travel inspires and, after all, I’ve visited over 620 destinations in 72 countries-to date. Gillick’s World covers main attractions, off-the-beaten-track wonders, niche market interests, food and drink. The magazines bring “Terroir Tourism” to life, that is, the history, culture, geography and people who make each destination to unique.
Susbscribe for free to Gillick’s World at [email protected]
In this issue…
The Wildest that Ireland has to Offer
My first trip to Ireland in 2009 left lasting impressions of the scenery, music, people, food, shopping, walking and well, just about everything!
In January 2014, I was asked to return to explore and write about Ireland’s Wild Atlantic Way, a coastal route that stretches from Belfast, around to Connemara, south to Mizen Head and on to Kinsale, just south of Cork. While the entire route is 2500 km, my portion would explore 1100 km.
It didn’t take me long to understand that the “wild” part of the route not only referred to the wind and waters of the Atlantic, but also to the untamed energy of local entrepreneurs and visionaries along the way who, working with Tourism Ireland and other government agencies, made it all happen.
One, out of many highlights of my trip was meeting Gerard Kennedy, the owner of the Moorings Guesthouse in the village of Portmagee. As a well-known trad music singer I asked if he knew the song “Come to the Brower” which seemed to capture the power of the Wild Atlantic Way. He not only sang it but allowed me to record it.
Will you come to the bower o’er the free boundless ocean Where the stupendous waves roll in thundering motion Where the mermaids are seen and the fierce tempest gathers To loved Erin the green, the dear land of our fathers Will you come, will you, will you, will you come to the bower?
As for the Wild Atlantic Way’s ‘Secrets’, these are really the dreams and aspirations of the individuals I met along the way. They include:
Cnoc Suain, a labour of love of Charlie Troy and Dearbhaill Standun in Spiddal.
Walking around the estate at Ballynahinch Castle in Recess with Noel
Riding an Irish Cobh over to Omey Island with Siobhan of the Cleggan Riding Stables.
Meeting and walking with Pat Sweeney, the visionary behind the Burren Walk
Conversing with Pat Buckley as he showed me the history and drama of Slea Head.
Exploring Valentia Island with Gerard.
Wandering around Sneem and Kenmare.
Witnessing the awesome cliffs and waves at Mizen Head with Stephen O’Sullivan.
Having a ‘Falconry Lesson’ at Dromoland Castle.
Ireland has so much to offer and it’s my pleasure to show off some of the memories of my travel. For ideas to match your own dreams, contact www.tourismireland.com.
1 2
3 4
5
Aside from the two Castles mentioned, I enjoyed staying at…
1) The House Hotel, Galway 2) Dingle Benners Hotel, Dingle 3) The Moorings Guesthouse,
Portmagee (That’s, Gerard Kennedy, the owner and folk singer)
4) The Brook Lane Hotel, Kenmare
5) The Hayfield Manor, Cork
Ba
lly
na
hin
ch
Es
tate
In our togetherness, Castles are built There’s an Irish proverb that says “Trí na chéile a thógtar na cáisléain”, meaning “In our togetherness, castles are built”.
The double meaning of the expression refers to teamwork and cooperation, as much as it relates to tourism in Ireland, where the combination of warm hospitality and amazing castle hotels elevate the travellers’ experience to a high level of satisfaction, enjoyment and comfort. On a recent trip to Ireland I stayed in castles on my first and last night—a perfect ‘comfort sandwich’. Each castle had its own unique personality and charm based on its history, location and the staff who work to make guest stays—and lifestyle dreams--as memorable as possible.
After arriving at Shannon Airport, I drove to Recess for my night at Ballynahinch Castle Hotel and Estate. I checked into my room and immediately engaged in
some Irish taste bud immersion, first with a crisp Guinness beer and followed by freshly baked soda bread, perfectly grilled scallops and tender, moist baked cod. Then it was time to explore the ambiance of the Castle: historic rooms, lush furniture and comfy quiet lounges to relax and reflect. The Ballynahinch Estate dates to the 16
th Century
when the O’Flaherty Clan ruled the area. The castle itself was built in 1756 by Richard Martin, a Member
of Parliament and later, the founder of the Irish Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals. In the early 20
th Century, the castle was owned for a
time by Shri Sir Ranjitsinhji (Ranji, for short),
renowned as the Prince of Cricketers in Ireland. In the drizzle and darkness of the next morning, I met Noel my walking guide, for a two hour stroll along the
paths, laneways, fields, mazes, rivers, and extraordinary views of the lake and the 12 Bens Mountains. We climbed over old gateways, stood on salmon fishing piers, and visited some of the old estate cottages. Noel explained the history of the
Connemara area, a name that literally means ‘Hound or Dog Sons of the Sea’; referring to one of the early tribes who used the rugged, rocky coastline for smuggling. He also noted the remnant of a tower on
the far side of the lake; recalling the exploits of Grace O’Malley, the infamous Pirate Queen who plundered ships in the area. The tour was fascinating and full of photographic opportunities.
This article appeared in a different format in www.travelindustrytoday.com
The Thomas Martin Reading Room, Ballynahinch Castle
The Reception area, Dromoland Castle
Top: Ballynahinch Castle, Recess Bottom: The Queen Anne Suite at Dromoland Castle, Newmarket-on-Fergus
After a tasty breakfast of grilled kippers and eggs, I had to depart. For those fortunate to stay longer, there are many outdoor activities to take in the country air, including salmon fishing, cycling, horseback riding, woodcock shooting and, not too far off at Roundstone Bay on the Atlantic Ocean, visitors can learn about lobster fishing from one of the Ballynahinch staff –an activity that is listed as one of the ‘secrets’ of the coastal drive known as the Wild Atlantic Way. For the next five days I visited different towns in the South West before heading north, past Shannon, to Newmarket-on-Fergus. On a cool and rainy day, I entered a gated area where, across a golf course (full of dedicated golfers), on the far side of the lake, sat Dromoland Castle. This area was the ancestral home of the O’Briens who were direct descendants of Brian Boru, the High King of Ireland in the 11th Century. The first castle was built in 1014. A second castle/house appeared in the early 18th Century and then the structure was rebuilt in 1963 with a castle/hotel design in mind.
The two suits of armour in the reception area immediately established the theme for the Castle: regal, luxurious, historical and very friendly. I was taken up a flight of stairs marked “Private” to the Queen Anne Suite where I was humbled by the plush couches, wardrobes, 3 flat-screen televisions--each welcoming me by name, a king-size bed with views of the golf course and lake, and a washroom equal to the size of my living room in Toronto. With camera in hand, I wandered around the red carpeted, picture and portrait-filled corridors of the Castle. The bar, once the estate library, was warm and cozy, as was the lounge area. For lunch, I sat on a six-inch deep couch, sipping a glass of Pinot Noir and savouring six juicy fat Galway Bay oysters. At 3:00 pm, Jim Hennigar walked into the Castle lobby with Alice, a very curious Harris Hawk, perched on his arm. My Hawk Walk was about to begin.
The corridor leading to the dining lounge and the bar, Dromoland Castle, Newmarket-on-Fergus
Jim Hennigar with Alice, on my Hawk Walk
Alice
Ignoring the pouring rain, we walked into the woods of the estate and pretty soon I was given my own thick leather glove and shown the proper way to stand when a Hawk is about to land on my arm. Using a tiny morsel of meat as a lure, Alice flew from a branch and grabbed my glove in her talons with an inelegant thump.
The next 90 minutes were a fascinating introduction to the world of Hawks and Falcons, their care, characteristics, eating habits and even some of their history. A ‘Falconet’, for instance, was the name chosen for a cannon used in the 15th century. The musket (gun) was named after the male sparrow hawk and the Toyota Tercel (automobile) takes its name from the male peregrine falcon. Throughout our conversation and walk, Alice would fly off into the trees and anxiously await the next piece of meat so she could swoop in for a bite. The Hawk Walk ended at a shelter housing a number of raptors. I was introduced to the goshawk, various falcons and several owls, before heading back to the castle to dry off and warm up. What an amazing way to spend an afternoon! For the record, Dromoland Castle also offers golf, fishing, cycling, clay shooting, archery, croquet, tennis, horseback riding, and has a fully appointed spa.
I stayed at some very fine hotels while in Ireland, but somehow the castle experience stood out as something special. In a way, I guess it appeals to our dreams of what it would be like to live in a castle with attentive service and delicious foods—and then to actually experience it. Perhaps for some of my generation, it appeals to the Disney stories we grew up with; a realization of the Prince and the Pauper and all the rags-to-riches imagineering to which we are all exposed from time to time. In the context of tourism, the theme of togetherness in building castles (or flying of hawks) unleashes dreams that many travellers embrace; a perfect complement to the very idea of travel and the ability to turn dreams and wishes into reality.
Cleggan lies on the Atlantic coast in Connemara, a district in the central west of Ireland. I drove through the area, stopping briefly in Barna Village and then visiting the reconstructed site of Cnoc Suain in Spiddal, before spending the night at Ballynahinch Castle in Recess. The next day I drove the short distance to Cleggan.
As if rehearsed, the people that I met in Connemara used the same words to describe the area. Charlie and Dearbhaill in Spiddal, Noel at Ballynahinch Castle and Noreen in Cleggan used almost the exact same words
within the first few minutes or our meeting and conversation. “People come to Connemara for the scenery, the fresh air and the peace and quiet”. And one need only pull over to the side of the road for a photo
stop, to marvel at the mountains, the fields or the lakes and to appreciate the quiet beauty of the area.
Even though I made several such photo stops between Recess and Cleggan, it still only took forty minutes or so to arrive. Cleggan literally means ‘head’ or ‘skull’ and refers to the shape of the land on which it resides. There
is a main street consisting of restaurants and a few shops, the entrance to the pier where boats depart for Galway, and a church, in front of which likes a marker to commemorate the Cleggan Bay Disaster of 1927 where 25 local fishermen lost their lives when a sudden gale arose at sea.
I visited Oliver’s Seafood, where Noreen Higgin greeted me and told me a bit more about the area known for its fresh air and fresh seafood. I had a bowl of the tasty chowder…so good and chock full of smoked salmon,
haddock, crab, mussels, white fish and prawns.
Scenery in Cleggan Village
Oliver’s Seafood in Cleggan
Riding to Omey Island: An Afternoon in Cleggan
The Cleggan Riding Stables are just a short distance away. My ‘guide’ for the afternoon was Siobhan and once my horseback riding level was determined (a bit more than beginner, a bit less than a confident intermediate), I was assigned to Henry, a very passive Irish Cobh. Equipped with helmet, and riding boots, I signed the “I think I know what I’m getting into” waiver, and then we headed off with Henry and me following Siobhan and Cathy, her Welsh Cobh.
We clip-clopped on small meandering country roads past houses and school kids and were greeted by curious horses, braying donkeys and gawking cows, and after an hour, came to the land bridge leading to Omey Island.
At this time of year (mid-January) the tide goes out at 10:30 am and does not come in again until 11:00 pm. It was now about 1:45 pm and the first car had just set out on the sea bed to cross over to the island. During high tide the car would have
been entirely under water. We rode on the firm sand, trotting a bit through the water with only the sound the horses hooves and a flutter of wings as
a flock of ducks and some black and white seagulls cleared a path for us.
Omey Island was the site of a monastery and settlement dating to the 6
th century and founded
by St. Feichin. The name Omey is derived from Gaelic and means ‘St. Feichin’s bed or seat’.
We wandered on the beach, through the thick beds of seaweed and around some boulders but pretty well stayed near the shoreline, chatting about tourism and the attraction for many
travellers to experience silence and reflection: just what a day of horseback riding way off the beaten track will accomplish.
But all things must come to an end and as the sun started to set, we slowly headed back to the stables. I bade farewell to Henry and returned to my car, ready to exchange the serenity of
Cleggan and the joy of riding to Omey on horseback, for the Friday night restaurants, pubs and trad music of Galway.
Horseback riding in Cleggan is listed as one of the “Secrets of the Wild Atlantic Way”. With Galway only 90 minutes away, this is a wonderful way to spend an afternoon: slow, enjoyable, relaxing, great conversation, lots of photos and of course,
the fresh air.
Noreen Higgin at Oliver’s in Cleggan
Siobhan on Cathy, as we return on the land bridge from Omey Island to the stables
Top: One of the stone cottages dating to 1691 at Cnoc Suain Below: The Visionaries: Charlie Troy and Dearbhaill Standun
the tin whistle), traditional dancing, a Gaelic lesson…or simply walk in the wilderness and be transported back to the 17th Century.
Cnoc Suain, pronounced ‘Kunnuk Soo-in’, literally means ‘restful hill’ in Gaelic/Irish. Celebrating the fresh air and the peace and quiet, Cnoc Suain is a cultural retreat located in a 17th century hill-village amidst 200 acres of Connemara wilderness. It’s about a 30 minute drive from Galway, just outside of the village of Spiddal. The
thatched-roof cottages, dating back to 1691 were restored, stone-by-stone, and over the last 16 years Charlie Troy and his wife Dearbhaill Standun have instituted award-winning programs to re-awaken the knowledge of Gaelic- Irish culture.
After a tour of the facilities with Charlie, Dearbhaill invited me to enjoy coffee and freshly baked scones, as she related that both she and Charlie have educational backgrounds that combine, music (Dearbhaill is an accomplished fiddler), entertainment, botany, geology (Charlie was a science teacher), horticulture and storytelling. They dreamed of creating an educational retreat that would provide guests with an unforgettable experience steeped in Gaelic culture.
Visitors can attend day or overnight programs—as couples, families or groups—to explore the mystery of the bogs (complete with tales of the bog men), learn about herbs and participate in cooking lessons, enjoy literary evenings, musical adventures (learn to play
The restoration of the stone work and thatching of the cottages was accomplished with the help of two Romanian workers who were just finishing a contract in the area. The cozy cottages now include modern conveniences including a kitchenette. This is yet another “Secret” of the Wild Atlantic Way! For more information, visit www.cnocsuain.com
Cnoc Suain
The Restful Hill
Above: “The Devil’s Hole” where the rough waters blast in and out between the cliffs, as they have done for 300 million years. Below: Getting up close and personal with the Cliffs for an amazing perspective that only the trail can provide.
The Doolin Cliff Walk: Ireland’s Wild Atlantic Walk
Pat Sweeney is the active ingredient in making the Cliffs come alive
There are several ways to visit the iconic Cliffs of Moher, including coach tours and car rentals. But the most dramatic, meaningful, visual and experiential way
to visit the Cliffs is to embark on The Doolin Cliff Walk -a 5 ½ km walking trail that begins at Gus O’Connor’s Pub in the village of Doolin, and ends at the Cliffs of Moher. And the best way to appreciate the walking trail is to walk it with the man who is primarily responsible for the trail’s existence: Pat Sweeney.
Pat grew up in the area with his farm house overlooking the Cliffs. Today, the family B &B, “Doonagore Farmhouse”, named after a 15
th Century Castle that
once dominated the area, reflects Pat’s passionate perspective on the value of the Cliffs: their history, their meaning and the forces of nature that created them and changes them on a daily basis. Pat is the first to admit that this trail constitutes Irelands “Wild Atlantic Walk”.
With Pat’s guidance, he and I walked the mostly gravel trail in January 2014. He had to convince 38 local farmers to allow the trail to pass through their property. The trail hugs the top of the Cliffs as they rise to 375 feet and then higher to 702 feet. We passed by an ancient bridge framing one of the O’Brien
Castles in the background; a site that not too many visitors see, due to the prominent location of Brien’s Tower, a few kilometers away, at the highest point on the Cliffs.
Pat Sweeney knows every rock, stone, river and fence along the Burren Way (which is the more formal name for the path), as well as the history of the area. He noted the lines on the rocks 370+ feet below us and talked about the rock quarry that existed many years before. He indicated a flag stone with a hole lying
near the path and explained that at one point in time it was used as an anchor to lower fishermen down the cliffs on ropes as well as a basket that was used to collect bird’s eggs. Pat further noted that 30,000 birds, nest in the cliffs including Atlantic Puffins, hawks, gulls and ravens and that the best way to hear the sounds of the Cliffs: waves, wind and bird calls, is to embark on the Doolin Cliff Walk.
And on a sadder note, Pat brought me to the spot where a tattered Irish flag was flapping in the wind—a victim of the major storm that ripped through the area a few days before. The flag was placed as a memorial to those who came to the Cliffs to wave farewell to their loved ones who were sailing to North America from nearby Galway. And waving that white sheet of farewell was a heart breaking gesture as their relatives and friends would most likely never return to Ireland. Pat reminded me that the three colours of the flag carry with them the proud history of the land: Orange for William of Orange; White for Peace and Green for Ireland, Erin’s Land.
One of the underlying themes of the walk—which did not take me long to appreciate, is the absolute value of local knowledge—hearing the stories and the history and learning about nature from someone who grew up in the area, but is also passionate about passing along the knowledge—not only to his three sons, in Pat’s case—but to guests that visit the area.
This is a breathtaking, awesome walk with unbelievable scenery. This is one of those “Secrets” of the Wild Atlantic Way that is a pleasure to discover. Pat noted that his oldest client so far has been 88 years old, so it
is definitely do-able for anyone who loves to walk, photograph, chat, listen to the waves crashing, and get up close and personal with the rugged beauty of nature. www.doolincliffwalk.com
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1) Diagonal lines of the old rock quarry by the Cliffs of Moher 2) The Irish flag was ripped apart by a huge storm in January, 2014. It marks the site of the tearful farewell to those departing from nearby Galway and sailing to North America. 3) One of the river crossings on the Walk 4) The final ascent to the 702 foot level of the Cliffs
Culinary Stars 1)Grilled Scallops and 2)Kippers and Eggs at Ballynahinch Castle 3) Galway Bay Oysters at Seafood@Kirwan’s Lane, Galway 4)Guinness Beer-served fresh and clean 5)Smoked Salmon and eggs at The House Hotel, Galway 6)A traditional Irish breakfast 7)The breakfast buffet at Dingle Benners Hotel 8)Murphy’s Beer (my favourite) 9)A wonderful meal at the Brook Lane Hotel in Kenmare: Roast duck with mashed potatoes, squash and cabbage. It was so tasty/so amazing.
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Valentia Island, off Portmagee, is linked to the mainland by both a bridge and a ferry service. This was the terminus of the
transatlantic telegraph cable from Newfoundland, completed in 1866. There are walking trails leading to lookouts over the ocean, picturesque narrow roads, the slate quarry used in the construction of the British Houses of Parliament, a trail of dinosaur footprints, and the cafes and shops of Knightstown. Nearby is Little Skellig Island with its gannet and puffin populations, and
Skellig Michael, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, where a 6th century monastery is perched 160 meters above sea level.
Valentia Island
Scenery on Valentia Island…just follow the signs and the narrow roads. The Maurice O’Neill bridge connects the island with the tiny fishing village of Portmagee
The Secrets of Dingle and Slea Head
Old stone cottages on the Slea Head Drive
Dingle Harbour Some of Dingle’s 52 Pubs
After spending a day exploring the Doolin Cliff Walk, my schedule suggested that I take the Shannon Ferry from Killimer to Tarbert, and then continue on to Dingle. However this was the one day of my trip that the GPS decided to stop talking to me. So, holding the GPS in my left hand and the steering wheel in my right hand, I drove through the darkness of a late January afternoon, around some pretty hairy “S” turns and hairpin turns, and eventually arrived safe and sound in the town of Dingle. Michael, one of the staff at Dingle Benners Hotel not only parked my car for me, but figured out why the GPS had stopped talking. (Was it something I said to it?) I celebrated with a nice cold Murphy’s beer, so my day ended on a fairly positive note.
After a very comfortable night at the hotel and a great breakfast buffet the next morning, I wandered through Dingle and down to the picturesque harbour—just as the sun was rising— to take in the scenery. This was to be the theme for the day as I soon discovered when I met Pat Buckley from Granter Chauffeur Drive, to explore the Slea Head Drive. I will say right off that Pat is very personable as well as serving as a font of knowledge about the area. It was a pleasure to spend the time with him, chatting, learning and taking in the incredible surroundings. Ho hum… yet another amazing day in Ireland!
The name “Dingle” derives from the Irish “Daingean Uí Chúis”, which refers to the Fortress of the Hussey’s, a Flemish family that came to the area in the 13th Century. It’s a very
colourful town with craft shops, bakeries and roughly 52 bars, 10 of which feature trad(itional) music on various evenings of the week.
From Dingle we drove up to the Connor Pass Lookout for a view of the countryside and to learn a bit of the history of the area, before reversing direction toward Slea Head.
In tourist season, the buses travel counter-clockwise on the route (see map) and therefore many visitors travel clockwise to avoid the congestion. However in January, there were few tourists, so we followed the counter clockwise route, slowing down or stopping whenever we saw something that drew our attention. Here are just a few examples:
Gaeltacht: (pronounced as ‘Gale Tact’) refers to a Gaelic Speaking area and on the Slea Head Drive, there are several such cultural pockets and lots of signs in both Gaelic and English.
http://www.dingle-peninsula.ie/sleahead.html
Next door to Dingle Benners Hotel is Foxy John’s Hardware Bar, where I dropped in for a pint.
Pat Buckley, my guide, later explained that there are a few such bars in Ireland that serve a dual purpose: “You can buy rat poison on your right and Guinness on your left”
Above: The St. Brendan Memorial Below: St. Brendan’s departure point on the Slea Head Drive
Naomhog: literally, ‘little holy one’, also known as
a Currach, is a traditional wood frame boat covered in felt or animal skins, and used for local as well as sea voyages. Speculation is that this was the type of boat used in the 5
th century when
St. Brendan made his voyage across the Atlantic
to North America.
St. Brendan’s Creek: St. Brendan, the patron
Saint of the Diocese of Kerry is said to have prayed and fasted for 40 days on nearby Mount Brendan along with 14 monks, before departing in 535 A.D. from St Brendan Creek, to spread the Gospel to North America. Tradition holds that it
took 7 years to reach the West. St. Brendan died in Galway in 578 A.D. The voyage was re-created by Tim Severin and 4 colleagues in 1976. It took them 13 months to arrive in Newfoundland, proving that St. Brendan could very well have made the trip in a Naumhog.
Gallarus Oratory: This ‘room of prayer” was built
in the 7th or 8
th century in the shape of an inverted
boat—the only remaining perfect example in existence.
Louis Mulcahey’s Pottery: One of several
pottery works in the area, Mulcahey still lives on site. There is a workshop where visitors can “turn a pot” (I made a rather large sake cup), a studio of finished works including of impressive Druid statues, a coffee shop with really tasty food and
friendly staff to answer questions.
Beach, where “Far and Away’ was filmed. The
crashing waves and the wind were the backdrop for one of the scenes from the 1992 Ron Howard film starring Nicole Kidman and Tom Cruise.
The Fahan Bee Hive Huts: Possibly dating to the 12
th Century, the five single-family huts (called
Clochan) were interconnected. At one time there may have been over 400 clochan in the area after
the Norman invaders forced farmers away from prosperous areas to marginal areas near Dingle.
Pat Buckley explaining about Naomhogs
Top: One the panoramic vistas of the Ocean along the Slea Head Drive Bottom: Ogham Stones dating to the 6th
to 9th
Centuries, containing an early medieval alphabet of lines and crosses, used in writing the Old Irish language
Sneem is only one of many colourful towns you pass through on the Wild Atlantic Way. It is situated just west of Waterville (where you can see a tribute to Charlie Chaplin who vacationed there) and just east of Kenmare—another pleasant place to spend the evening and enjoy the shops, bars and harbour. Sneem, in Irish, means ‘the knot’; the theory being that when the Sneem River meets Kenmare Bay it forms a swirling knot of water. There is a sculpture park in Sneem, several coffee houses and bars, including Dan Murphy’s (below). Just park the car beside the park and spend some time wandering around, relaxing and gazing at the rush of the water.
SNEEM
Mizen Head, in the County of Cork, is the
most southwesterly point of Ireland, and noted for its ultra-dramatic views of the Wild Atlantic crashing against the cliffs. At the very tip of the peninsula, there is a lookout, as well as a weather station, a lighthouse and a signal station that is now a museum. This is accessible by 99 steps leading from the mainland Visitor Centre to the Arched Bridge
that spans some of the wild waves and offers great photographs.
I was fortunate to meet with Sue Hill who
owns the Heron’s Cove Bed & Breakfast in Goleen-about 5 km from Mizen Head. As the Development Officer for Mizen Head, she has been front and centre in promoting this tourist,
historic, adventure, nature attraction as a perfect representation of what the Wild Atlantic Way is all about. Sue arranged for Stephen O’Sullivan, the Manager and a
former light keeper, to give me a personal tour of the Visitor Centre, the walkways, the museum and lookout areas, and I will say that it was breathtaking!
This was the place where Guglielmo Marconi set up one of his first telegraph stations, and this is the ‘teardrop of land’ that was the last
landfall seen by Irish emigrants to North America. The light of the Fastnet Lighthouse can be seen for 19 miles. For those sailing from America to Europe, this was the first landfall to be seen.
As you wander the sometimes steep trails, it’s not only the vistas of the sea that mesmerize but also the wildlife (dolphins, whales, seals,
sharks) and the birdlife (gannets, kittiwakes and choughs). Displays include life as a light keeper, shipwrecks, a weather station and the history of the area.
See also the back cover
The Power of Mizen Head
Wandering the Streets in Kenmare and Dingle
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The Signal Station at Mizen Head
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