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FINAL PROJECT: WATCHES & JEWELRY 5th June Juliana GRUBER Alba ROMERO VILLA

Chaumet: overview of observed current business strategies

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Conducted by Juliana GRUBER and Alba ROMERO VILLA

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Page 1: Chaumet: overview of observed current business strategies

FINAL PROJECT: WATCHES & JEWELRY!5th June

Juliana GRUBER Alba ROMERO VILLA

Page 2: Chaumet: overview of observed current business strategies

1780: FOUNDATION

1804 - 1880: THE ROMANTIC EMPIRE

1780 - 1810: ‘THE NINOT PERIOD’1815 - 1885: ‘THE FOSSIN & MOREL PERIOD’

1780 1880

ORIGINS & HERITAGE

A history closely interwoven with the history of France and Paris (a celebrated

destination for its magnificent jewelers).

Page 3: Chaumet: overview of observed current business strategies

1880-1910: LA BELLE ÉPOQUE1910: 1930: THE INDIAN STYLE

1880 1930

1910: ART DECÓ

ORIGINS & HERITAGE

Page 4: Chaumet: overview of observed current business strategies

KEY CURRENT COLLECTIONS

1910-1944: ART DECÓ

1944-1987: RESURGENCE OF THE BRAND 1999: LVMH

1910 TODAY

1987: SCANDALS

Page 5: Chaumet: overview of observed current business strategies

STRATEGIC INITIATIVES

COMMERCIAL DISTRIBUTION

International expansion!90 retail stores - Control over prices and brand essence

COMMUNICATION

Targeting a younger audience & Asian countries!Recent disruptive campaigns to move forward fashion!

French ambassadors / endorsers (Sophie Marceau, Marine Vacht)!Product Placement !

Aristocrats and actresses!No men dedicated campaigns

AUDIENCETargeting younger consumers and a wider ranges!

Wider price positions (access, regular and fine line)!Asian market, US?

HERITAGE!RCS

Sponsor / Partner at Académie des César!Responsible Jewelry Council Certification (RJC)!

The Kimberly Process!The Protection of Bees!

Exhibition of pieces

PRODUCT MANAGEMENTLarger investments in watches!

More daily jewelry and watches - consumption changes!More playful collections (new artist dir. Claire Dévé-Rakoff)

Page 6: Chaumet: overview of observed current business strategies

FIGURES!!

• As at 31 december 2012, total income amounted 125 m € (approx. 25% increase with respect to 2011).!

• However, the operating costs exceed the total income, resulting in an operating loss of 1 m € approx. !

• cost of goods sold and external charges are one of the factors of the company poor financial results. Such elements tend to demonstrate that the business is strongly affected by the evolution of its costs. !

• In addition, the cost of stock depreciation increase a lot in 2012 (17 m €) in comparison with the previous Financial Years (approx. 4 m €) !

• With a negative profit margin of -0,01% and a negative Return on Assets of -0,01%, it seems that the company faces business difficulties in terms of profitability. !

• The company’s debt level is quite low even though it is important to note that almost 40% of the company’s debt relates to trade creditors (25 m € in 2012). !

• It should be considered to proceed to debt leverage in order to improve the business profitability and margin by, for instance acquiring other business or expanding into new markets.!

• Most of the company’s turnover is realized in France and Japan. However, due to its fast expansion in China as from 2011, with the opening of 24 stores, China does represent now 25 % of the company’s sales.

Page 7: Chaumet: overview of observed current business strategies

BRAND IDENTITY

12, VENDÔME

GRAND SALON (BÉLANGER, CHOPIN)

HONG KONG

Page 8: Chaumet: overview of observed current business strategies

DESIGN: STYLISTIC FEATURES

POWER AND ARISTOCRATS

BEES

JEWELS

ARTISANS JEWELERS

HERITAGE & LEGEND

EMOTIONCROWNS & TIARAS

FRENCH

CUSTOM PIECES

SOBRIETY

ELEGANCE

Page 9: Chaumet: overview of observed current business strategies

EXPERTISE | QUALITYMANUFACTURING / WORKSHOP

14 artisans ply their trade in the workshop on Place

Vendôme, under the direction of foreman Pascal Bourdariat.

TECHNICAL FEATURES

Materials: outstanding diamonds, precious stones and gems stones.

White gold, platinum, rose gold, gold and silver.!

Attention to the smallest details!Movement complications for the watches section: quartz, manual

mechanic and automatic mechanic movements, chronograph, GMT,

large date movement, mechanical jumping hour movement, power

reserve, metronome movement and tourbillon.

INNOVATIONS

Focus on design, artistic movements

http://youtu.be/ioCoNdGUyCE

Page 10: Chaumet: overview of observed current business strategies

POSITIONING STATEMENT

Chaumet, the ‘prestige jeweler’ on Place Vendôme, it’s a brand full of heritage that represents the parisian ‘savoir faire’ in ‘haute jewelry’. It incarnates the historical and

modern ‘parisienne’. Filled with emotion and feelings made for those in search of something different, gorgeous and outstanding. Focus on creativity and design.

Contrast between edgy contemporary and timeless pieces.

! !

Page 11: Chaumet: overview of observed current business strategies

COMPETITIVE MAPPING

Fabricants

Maisons !de couture

Créateurs joailliers

Griffes !de mode

Joailliers

Argent

Grande!Distribution

CARTIER

CHOPARDPIAGET

HARRY WINSTON

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS

BOUCHERON

BULGARI

CHAUMET

CHANEL

DIOR

RALPH LAUREN

LOUIS VUITTON

HERMESGUCCI

TIFFANY & CO

DINH VAN

FRED

MAUBOUSSIN

POMELLATOMESSIKA

LORENZ BAUMER

ISABELLE LANGOIS

VHERNIER

VICTORIA CASALPATRICE FABRE

Créateurs joailliers

Maisons !de couture

Joailliers

Page 12: Chaumet: overview of observed current business strategies

BRAND PORTFOLIO: PRODUCT & PRICEWOMEN MEN BRIDAL

Jewelry!High jewelry Jewelry

Watches!Precious Watches

Watches!Precious Watches

HAUTE JOALLERIE

Price collection between €80,000 to €900,000.! Montre Bee my Love! Montre Class One Tourbillon!

JOALLERIEAttrape-moi…si tu m’aimes !

E 5500!Classic!E 8000!

Attrape-moi…si tu m’aimes !E 47000!

DandyArt Open Face !E 40000!

ENTRYJosephine!

E 3500!Bee my love:!

E 3000!Class One!

E 4300!Class One!

E 2900!

ACCESSLiens!E 960!

Torsade!E 2000!

960 €

3.000 €

10.000 €

80.000 €

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7TF1BzSz0fk

Page 13: Chaumet: overview of observed current business strategies

SWOT ANALYSIS

S WO T

• Talent in house & strong ‘savoir faire’. Strong relationship with suppliers and galleries. !

• Strong heritage: brand essence, a singular brand personality!

• The flexibility to provide custom pieces. !• Part of the largest group of Luxury (LVMh) since

1999: benefit from economies of scale, supply chain management, acquisition synergies, etc. A comprehensive distribution network from a robust website and a network of galleries.!

• Ethical commitments!• Adaptability to today demands (simpler styles)

• Scandals (late 80’s) damaged the brand image!• Lost of manufacturing assets. The cost of

maintaining unfinished work in progress.!• Cost structures: work inefficiencies.!• Time consumption and delays to get final products.!• Weak development in men’s collection. !• Brand dilution as different point of access (prices)!• A large portion go the target market is not educated

in complications, technical features, etc. !• High pressure to create new outstanding pieces.

• Pricing power: consumers are less sensible to price (focus on emotional attachment, design and creativity).!

• Low barrier of entry of new competitors (great investments).!

• Ultra wealthy people and new markets offer a new source of income.!

• Great investments for an International Expansion.!• New technologies / innovations.!• E-commerce and opening of retail shops.

• Price of raw materials are rocketing as a result to the growing demand from other industries and the political instability of the countries they are being extracted from. !

• Global economical downturn and the raise of austerity as a social value.!

• New competitors -fashion brands- are pushing down the business profitability.!

• Artistic copycats and counterfeits entering the market and mimic Chaumet designs.

INTE

RNAL

ORI

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at

tribu

tes

of th

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ganiz

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nEX

TERN

AL O

RIG

IN

attri

bute

s of

the

envir

onm

ent

HELPFUL to achieving the objective

HARMFUL to achieving the objective

Page 14: Chaumet: overview of observed current business strategies
Page 15: Chaumet: overview of observed current business strategies

BEE MYSELF

Strategy!To enter in the United States and offer a new product that could appeal to existing markets (Japan,

China and Europe)! !

Positioning!As an extension to the collection ‘Bee’ (My Love), the new line called ‘Bee Myself’ its’s symbolic,

poetic and full of personality. Thought as a long lasting core piece within Chaumet offer, this collection is made to commemorate an important moment in every young professionals seeking for

independence. !!

Collection!Jewelry (rings, earrings, brooch and bracelets) and watches made with different colors, each one

representing a specific career path (profession).!!

Competitor !The first haute joaillier French house to develop specific collection dedicated to this specific moment.!

!Price!

Positioned between Access and Entry

Page 16: Chaumet: overview of observed current business strategies
Page 17: Chaumet: overview of observed current business strategies

PRODUCT FEATURES

ZAFIRA !BLUE

EMERALD!GREEN

AMETHYST!PINK

Business Administration!Engineering !Psychology !

Publicity and Advertising !Marketing!Economy!Visual arts !

Music !International Relations !

Biology!Industrial Design

Biomedicine !Biochemistry !

Nursing !Physiotherapy !

Medicine !Nutrition !

Clinical Psychology !Veterinary !

Animal Science !Speech Therapy

Fashion Design !Hospitality and Tourism!

Social Worker !Geography !

History !Letters !

Theology !Pedagogy !

Social Science !Account

RUBI/GRANADA!RED

TOPAZ!YELLOW

TURMALINA!PINK

Law!Journalism!Odontology

Pharmacy !Biochemist

Account

Page 18: Chaumet: overview of observed current business strategies

CONCEPT DESIGN / STYLE JEWELRY FEATURES

WATCHMAKING FEATURES

BRAND SIGNATURE

Full of personality, the

Bee Myself collection is

made to celebrate important

moment in a young

professional women looking

for independence!

Use: modern and casul!

!

Simple shapes to be use daily

Volumes!

Different shapes and collors that

represent different

professionals

Platinum!

Gold!

Silver!

Precious stones!

Diamonds (simple)

Leather!

Silver!

Gold !

Diamond !

Precious stones (zafira, emerald, turmalina, rubi,

granada, topazio, amethyst)!

Automatic watches!

Manual watches!

Water-resistance

Bee!

Discret stones!

Unique shapes !

!