Your Head and Your Costume: Millinery, Wig & Makeup Design for Cosplay

Planning Your Headpiece: Create a Visual

1) Start with a sketch and research images to give yourself options.

Seeing realistic ways to build something that was originally created

for an imaginary, two-dimensional world will provide realistic

options for executing your own design.

Know Your Materials  2) As a beginning milliner, approach projects earnestly. Stick to

supplies that are available from craft, hardware and floral supply

shops. They are often the most affordable and adaptable, easily

combined with adhesives and changed with a few coats of paint.

Keep Your Costume in Mind  

3) When building your headpiece, consider how it will fit on your

head, especially if you’ll be wearing a wig with it. Consider height

and balance issues and make sure to have a way to secure it to your

head, preferably with long wig pins that go into pin curl preps or flat

barrettes.

Work your Work!  

4) When having your finished design photographed, keep in mind all

the angles and details you want captured beforehand since you can’t

see it once it’s on your head. Know how to

maximize your design potential!

Photos by Kevin@stillvisions.com

Styling Your Wig: From Fantasy to Reality  

1) Start by translating the illustrated hairstyle into real-life looks and

techniques. It may help to understand the style by sketching the

character’s hair to analyze its shape and texture. If you’re not

confident in your sketching abilities, you can also use research

images.  

2) Next, find out what materials your wig is made of. Synthetic or

plastic fiber hair can only be styled with gentle heat or, preferably,

steam for a better, longer-lasting style; you can use a garment or

hand steamer. You can also do a wet hair set and let it air dry or

blow dry it (on LOW HEAT) for a softer curl. NEVER USE

NORMAL HAIR- STYLING TOOLS ON A SYNTHETIC

WIG; THEY WILL MELT IT!!!  

Understanding Your Wig’s Properties  

3) Knowing your options in wig tools and what they do can help you

figure out how to achieve the look you want for your wig.

•  Mesh Rollers – allow for good steam circulation, faster drying time

•  Electric Rollers – provide gentle curl; take longer to

set and cool

•  End Papers – Keep short hairs close to

roller for neater curl set

Wig Styling Tools  

•  T-pins – Hold mesh rollers in place on head form

•  Rat-tail comb– Tool with point for separating layers of hair

•  Steamers – Hand and garment versions used for

synthetic wig styling

Wig Styling Tools continued  

4) Straightening a synthetic wig is as easy as separating the hair into

small sections and, working from the bottom up, brush each out.

Then pull the brush through each piece from the underside with

one hand while working the steamer down from the top; repeat as

necessary to work out all the kinks, then brush through the entire

wig and let it dry.

Wig Setting Options  

5)  When curling a synthetic wig, the look will vary based on the size of the roller.

Larger rollers give softer, wavy curls; the smaller the roller, the more springy the

curl. Separate the hair into small sections working from the top down, front to

back. Wrap each tightly around the roller, tucking the ends under, and secure to

the wig head with at least two T-pins. Steam for several seconds from about an

inch away, and make sure all sides of every curl get hit with steam and let dry for

about a day.

Wig Setting Options  

6) To prep your hair: If it’s very short, use bobby pins crossed in an X as

anchors. With longer hair, secure pin-curls in the same way on the crown

of your head, in front of each ear, and at each corner of the nape of your

neck. French braid and wrap the rest around your head and pin flat. Pin

your wig cap on and push back from the hairline. Put the wig on with the

pointed tabs inside centered in front of your ears and the hairline just in

front of your own, as it may slide back during the day. Secure the wig

with long pins that hook under the pin-curl anchors.

Securing and Styling Your Wig  

Finishing The Look: The Painted Illusion  

1) As with your other designs, begin with a makeup plan and/or

research images based on your character’s look. Try to break it

down into color and accessory elements (such as false lashes,

colored contacts, prosthetics, etc.)

Test Drive Your Look  

2) It’s always a good idea to apply your makeup and accessories ahead

of time for several reasons: you can see how long it will take to do

on the day of the con; make sure it matches your vision of the

character; get comfortable with the necessary techniques, and make

any changes ahead of time.

Create the Character  

3) Take note of the character’s features where they differ from yours

and use your products to alter the look of them. With most female

anime characters, you’ll need to make your eyes look bigger: line the

inner rims with white pencil, apply thick black liner on top and add

false lashes, then finish off with mascara on top and bottom. To

change lip shape, conceal and powder around your natural lip line,

then re-draw the desired shape with liner and fill with color.