Spring 05 runway recap

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KorsLaurenBlass

• The 1st Qtr. trend is a mix of traditional classics with a modern appeal• Think “Getaway Glamour”• Ladylike silhouettes continue with a more relaxed attitude for both career and casual• Colors are cool, sea inspired

Herrera

1st qtr. trend: cote d’ azur

Les Copains




color: cool

Pulitzer

• QTR 1 DIFFERENTIATION DRIVER• All shades of the Green and Blue family, with a strong focus on lime and turq• A perfect color story for prints: floral, ombres• Plays back best to white, other cool colors or neutrals

Conran Ungaro Conran




Kors

• A strong color story that will act as a cleansing palette between quarters 1 and 2• Applicable for both the career and casual, classic and modern• Creates a strong print story for floral or geometrics• Create a strong KEY ITEM statement with black and white

KorsYSL Van Noten

color: black & white




color: pale neutral

• While color will dominate the floor, do not underestimate the strength of pales• The newness is in the mix: layers of different tones create a subtle modern look• Think of fabrics with shine, sheen and decorative details • KEY FABRICATIONS: washed linens, floaty sheers and voiles, silks, jersey

Blass KaranArmaniTuleh Miller




Prints

• Qtr 1 DIFFERENTIATION DRIVER• The Garden is the inspiration for this important feminine print statement• Options are varied from bold and bright to soft and delicate• Backgrounds in cool colors or white look the most fresh• Decorative embellishments, such as sequins or beading can add dimension

print: floral

Luca Luca Les Copains Burberry D Squared




• Fabrics with embellishment can create Key Item updates• Includes Brocades, Jacquards, Damasks and Metallic Matelasses• These fabrics are often bi-colored or have a metallic finish• KEY APPLICATON: Career and Casual Jackets, Skirts and Dresses

Kors Grant

fabric: jacquards

Missoni Etro




Prints

Klein Karan BCBG

• Metallics evolve from winter to a Qtr 1 fabric• From all out shine to a more subtle lustrous sheen• Shades of Silver, Mercury, Platinum and Pewter• KEY APPLICATIONS: Career and Casual Jackets and Dresses

Grant

fabric: metallic




details

• QTR 1 DIFFERENTIATION DRIVER•Sequins are one of the most important decorative details to appear this season• Not only as a trim, but over-all coverage creates newness in a basic item• The sequin tank is the newest layering piece• Metallic Gold and Silver are Incoming when used for day• KEY APPLICATIONS: Dresses, Skirts, Wovens and Knits

decorative details: sequins

Schouler Sarafpour BCBG BCBG




Burberry Burberry

• QTR 1 DIFFERENTIATION DRIVER•Designers are purposely breaking the rules for a Mismatched Appeal• Combining two or more prints create a unique fashion statement• For a more classic look, mix prints of the same color

fabric: mix it up

Kenzo Kors




Kors BCBG

• QTR 1 KEY ITEM• The Item Jacket is set to be the key layering piece of the season• Shorter, boxy shapes in ladylike fabrics, color and details• May be collarless and closureless

the item jacket: boxy

Wang Les Copains




• QTR 1 KEY ITEM• The Feminine Fitted Jacket continues to be an important tailored silhouette • Waists are gently shaped or can be tightly nipped for a more exaggerated fit• Newest are bracelet length sleeves• KEY DETAILS: shaped shoulders and rounded hemlines

the item jacket: fitted

Versace Dior Etro Schon




Jacket Longer

Vuitton

• QTR 1 KEY ITEM• The Short Sleeve jacket has made a strong comeback from the archives of the 70’s & 80’s• Look for ladylike details, dressed up fabrications and feminine colors • An Incoming Career look for both the Classic and Modern Guest

the item jacket: short sleeve

Versace LeporeGrant




Marc Jacobs

• QTR 1 KEY ITEM• Cardigans continue to be a key item for both Career and Casual• Cardigans need to be stand-alone items, as twin-sets have become pre-and post-peak• Newest are Cardigan Jackets to be worn over blouses or as a jacket replacement• Unique details and embellishments are a must

the cardigan

Oscar Herrera Palmer JonesSui




Kors

• QTR 1 KEY ITEM• The Capri Pant is back as a key pant shape • While lengths varied, most seemed to be mid calf• Variations include printed, novelty hem embellishments• Merchandise with matching or complimenting jackets and cardigans

the capri

Rodriquez MoschinoLos Copains




• Some services are calling this “THE PANT OF THE SEASON.’• Looks newest when paired with a “matching” jacket or cardigan• Best when hitting just at the knee of slightly above• An enormous variety of fabrications allow for a Career to Casual item

Kors Kors

The bermuda short

Herrera Gucci




Oscar PulitzerLauren

• QTR 1 KEY ITEM • A key item for the casual resort look• Shapes: fluid and wide, cropped, narrow• An enormous variety of fabrications allow for a Career to Casual item

the white pant

Rucci Menichelti




KorsKaran Lauren

• QTR 1 KEY ITEM• Fluidity and movement continue to drive this important item• Soft and fluid fabrics, both in solids and prints, for volume and movement: • Near-the-Knee lengths for classic, while the more modern guest may go longer• The perfect items to be merchandised back to jackets, cardigans

the fluid skirt

Miller




Kors Temperly

• QTR 1 KEY ITEM• The tunic returns for another season, updated with color and embellishments• Lengths vary from at the waist to longer versions that can be belted• Lightweight cottons, linens and silks in white and sea inspired greens and blues• KEY AREAS: Classic Casual, Modern, Contemporary and Young Contemporary

the tunic

PucciTemperley




dress

• QTR 1 KEY ITEM• The Day Dress was an important item in most collections and will be a suit substitute• Variations on the traditional sheath silhouette can take her from “Desk to Dinner”• Merchandise with matching or complimenting jackets and cardigans

The day dress

Oscar Reese Oscar Miller Oscar




details

Hannant Hannant

• QTR 1 DIFFERENTIATION DRIVER• Decorative Details continue to create newness and a reason to buy• Embellishments can be both sporty and opulent• Printed fabrics look new with dimensional beading, overstitching or sequins

decorative details

Herrera Molinari




• Empire Lines add waist and bust definition• Waist definition created by inset waists, or self ties and belts• KEY APPLICATIONS: Career and Casual Jackets, Knits, Wovens and Dresses

detail: empire waists

Chow Wang Oscar Reese




• While the pantsuit is not the newest fashion idea, it was well represented on the runways• White creates the newest statement and can appeal to both the classic or modern guest• Trouser shapes ranged from wide and fluid to sexy and straight • Create newness with jacket shapes and cropped pant lengths

the pantsuit

Lhuillier Versace Roi Lauren Blass




Kors• QTR 1 DIFFERENTIATION DRIVER

•Both a fabric and a knit statement, crochet is a romantic detail that is gaining momentum• White drives the look for Qtr 1• All forms of crotchet, pointelle, threadwork and cutwork • KEY APPLICATIONS: Knits and Wovens, Dresses, and as Decorative Trims

decorative details: crochet

Akris Oscar Miller




Black & WhitePale Neutrals

Cool ColorColor

FloralJacquardsMetallicFabric & print mixing

Fabric

Decorative DetailsSequinsEmpire LinesCrochet

Detail

Fitted JacketCardiganCapriWhite PantFluid SkirtDress

Boxy JacketShort Sleeve JacketShorts (knee grazing)TunicWhite Pantsuit

Item/Silhouette

PREPEAKINCOMINGTESTINGqtr 1 trend curve




• QTR 2 DIFFERENTIAN DRIVER

•Strong ethnic influences combined with relaxed sportswear• Think “global glamour”• Unique embellishments and decorative details for individuality• Rich ethnic color and prints drive the look

2nd qtr. trend: Ciao Bella

Marni Gucci MissoniHerrera




Color

QTR 2 DIFFERENTIATION DRIVER

For 2nd Qtr, color is a deep palette of deep, spicy, earthen tones • Strongest were the saturated browns, greens, rusts and purples• A perfect trans color story as we transition into fall• ACCENT with ochre, fuchsia, tomato and turq

color: spicy

Steffe Prada Gucci Ferretti




• QTR 2 DIFFERENTIATION DRIVER• Ombres, Tie and Dip Dyes continue into 2nd Qtr• Watch for beautiful interpretations in rich ethnic colors• Placed or engineered • KEY APPLICATIOSN: Casual Knits and Wovens, Dresses

print: ombre

Ferretti Missoni Prada Iceberg




• QTR 2 DIFFERENTIATION DRIVER• Print mixes continue to create newness and drama to the mix• Includes fabric and textures mixing, as well as print• Combining one color mix can create an understandable interpretation for the more classic guest

print: mix it up

Van Noten Gaultier MissoniSchouler




• QTR 2 DIFFERENTIATION DRIVER• Global influences create the strongest message for 2nd Qtr prints and pattern• While the range of influence is extensive, much focus has been on African inspiration• Batiks, Ikats, Bold Geometrics and simple Leaf or Foliage Patterns

print: ethnic

Oscar MaxMara Etro DVF




• QTR 2 DIFFERENTIATION DRIVER

• For 2nd Qtr, crochet is more folkloric than romantic• All forms of crotchet, pointelle, threadwork and cutwork • 3D Details and Effects add dimension • KEY APPLICATIONS: Knits and Wovens, Dresses, and as Decorative Trims

decorative detail: crochet

Oscar Philosophy Ribeiro Temperley




Van Noten

• QTR 2 DIFFERENTIATION DRIVER• A more simple and homespun approach to detail that adds a romantic or historical touch to key items• Think embroidery, appliqué, crewl and stitch work• Metallic threads and 3D effects for dimension

decorative detail: craftwork

Temperley Williamson BCBG




• QTR 2 DIFFERENTIATION DRIVER• Sequins are one of the most important decorative details to appear this season• Not only as a trim, but newest is the over-all coverage to create newness in a basic item• Metallic, Gold is most important for 2nd Quarter• KEY APPLICATIONS: Dresses, Skirts, Wovens and Knits

decorative details: sequins

Pollini Miu Miu Pollini




• Metallics evolve from silver to warmer tones • From all out shine to a more subtle lustrous sheen• Shades of Gold, Copper and Bronze• KEY APPLICATIONS: Career and Casual Jackets and Dresses

fabric: metallic

Reese Miu Miu Valentino Schouler MaxMara




• QTR 2 KEY ITEM• The safari jacket will become a key item and support the ethnic trend• A natural evolution of all the military influences of past seasons• Essential are the 4 pocket and belted details• A perfect silhouette for blending casual and career

the item jacket: safari

MaxMara Versace MaxMara Gucci




• QTR 2 DIFFERENTIATION DRIVER• While not the newest statement, skin prints are another layer of ethnic prints• All animals are represented: leopard, zebra, snake• Newest when recolored

print: skins

Blumarine Dolce Cavalli Kors




• QTR 2 DIFFERENTIATION DRIVER• Global influences have inspired a strong floral statement• Bold rustic ‘Ciao Bella’ colors create the look• Bold and over scaled imagery

print: floral

Missoni DVF Moschino Missoni




• QTR 2 KEY ITEM• The Item Jacket is set to be the key layering piece of the season• Subtle retro styling in wider, boxier cuts• Linen and Silk Blends, Jacquards and Damasks• Bracelet length sleeves are newest

the item jacket: boxy

Miu Miu Pollini Steffe Marni




• QTR 2 KEY ITEM• The short sleeve jacket has made a strong return from the archives of the 70’s & 80’s• Look for ladylike details, dressed up fabrications and feminine colors • An incoming career look for both the Classic and Modern guest

the item jacket: short sleeve

Valentino Missoni Valentino Marni




• QTR 2 KEY ITEM• Cardigans continue to be a key item for both Career and Casual• Cardigans need to be stand-alone items, as twin sets have become pre-and post-peak• Shorter sleeves and cropped lengths for the modern guest • Unique details and embellishments are a must

the cardigan

MaxMara Steffe BlumarineMaxMara




• QTR 2 KEY ITEM• Fluidity and movement continue to drive this important item• Soft and fluid fabrics, both in solids and prints, for volume and movement: • Near-the-knee lengths for classic, while the more modern guest may go longer• The perfect items to be merchandised back to jackets, cardigans and smock tops

the fluid skirt

Oscar Etro Van Noten Jackson Sportmax




• QTR 2 KEY ITEM• Fluidity and movement are created by tiered fabrics• While this will be embraced by the modern guest, there are examples for the classic guest• Longer lengths in gauzy linens are perfect for 2nd Qtr

the fluid skirt: tiered

BCBG Iceberg Sui Sportmax




• Empire Lines add waist and bust definition• A key detail for smock tops and dresses• KEY APPLICATIONS: Career and Casual Jackets, Knits, Wovens and Dresses

detail: empire waists

MaxMara Miu Miu Rowley Prada




the bermuda short

• Some services are calling this “THE PANT OF THE SEASON.”• A perfect layer to add to a cropped pant presentation• Best when hitting just at the knee of slightly above• An enormous variety of fabrications allow for a Career to Casual item

Rodriguez Van Noten Sportmax Roi




Blumarine

• QTR 2 KEY ITEM• The Capri Pant is back as a key pant shape • While lengths varied, most seemed to be mid calf• Variations include printed, novelty hem embellishments• Merchandise with matching or complimenting jackets and cardigans

the capri

Schouler Marni Reese Ungaro




• The smock top is expected to replace the volume of the peasant blouse• Fabrics include soft gauzy linens and cottons• KEY DETAILS: Empire waists, smocking and handcrafted, homespun embellishments• KEY APPLICATION AREAS: Modern, Contemporary and Young Contemporary

the smock top

Williamson Sui BCBGBCBGTaylor




• QTR 2 KEY ITEM• The tunic will continue into 2nd Qtr with even more of an emphasis on an ethnic look• Lengths vary from at the waist to longer versions that can be belted• Ethnic details and embellishments on lightweight cottons, linens and silks• KEY AREAS: Classic Casual, Modern, Contemporary and Young Contemporary

the tunic

Ribeiro GnSteffeBlugirl




• The ideal dress for “Desk to Dinner”• Fabrics that have shine are newest• Classic shirtdress details combine with safari styling• The more modern guest will want the dress to be reinvented in both style and fabric

Versace

the shirtdress

MaxMara Gucci Branquinho Roi




GhostMaxMara

• QTR 2 DIFFERENTIATION DRIVER•Lace is Incoming as both as an all over fabric and a placed detail • For a soft, feminine look or a quirky off beat look • While best in white, pastels work well• KEY APPLICATIONS: Career and Casual Jackets, Wovens, Dresses and Skirts

MaxMara Chanel

decorative detail: lace




Blumarine

• KEEP YOUR EYE ON WESTERN• Hippy Chic combines with the romance of the American West • KEY LOOKS: Tiered or Petticoat Skirts, Lacey Blouses, Embellished Vests and Jackets• DESIGNERS WHO ARE LEADING THE TREND: Anna Sui, Blumarine and Roberto Cavalli

SuiSui Cavalli

western




Spicy ColorColor

FloralAnimal SkinFabric & Print Mixing

Fabric

Ombre / Dip DyeCraftwork

Ethnic PrintEmpire LinesMetallicLace / CrochetSequins Western

Detail

Fluid SkirtCardiganCapriTunic

Safari JacketShort Sleeve JacketTiered Skirt (gypsy style)Short (knee grazing)Shirt DressSmock top

Item/Silhouette

PREPEAKINCOMINGTESTINGqtr 2 trend curve




Lifestyle

Spring 05 runway recap