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SLOW FASHION:a promise for the future?
byLadyborsa.com
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• The apparel industry accounts for 10% of global carbon emissions and remains the second largest industrial polluter, second only to oil.
Examples:• Production of a 1kg of cotton ( necessary to
produce a t-shirt or a pair of jeans) requires 20.000 litres of water. • Transformations of raw materials into clothes
requires until 8.000 different chemicals
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• Cotton production is one of the most water intensive crops – responsible for 2.6 percent of global water use.
• In order to increase the production of cotton high volumes of pesticides and fertilizers are utilized; these chemicals contributes to the pollution of groundwater and air, as well as the reduction of soil fertility.
• Cotton production is responsible of Cotton uses 22.5% of the world’s insecticides and 10% of all pesticides
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• Some amazing facts ( from Forbes )
Nearly 70 million barrels of oil are used each year to make the world’s polyester fiber, which is now the most commonly used fiber in our clothing. But it takes more than 200 years to decompose.
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• More than 150 billion garments are produced annually, enough to provide 20 new garments to every person on the planet, every year.
• Americans throw away about 32 Kg of clothing per person every year.
• Today ‘throwaway fashion’ culture is widely diffused in the western world.
Some amazing facts ( from Forbes )
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Today ‘throwaway fashion’ culture is widely diffused in the western world.
Textile waste had risen from 7% of total waste to 30% in the last five years
The textile waste was not “easily recyclable”
https://www.flickr.com/photos/23335593@N05/2988795145
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Environmental and social effects of the fashion industry
80 bilion of garmentsProduced every year
+400% compared to 2015
CO2 ProductionPesticides insecticides
Fashion industry produces 10% of pesticides and 22.7% of insecticides
High consumption( water, energy,…)
Cotton production (25 million tons)
labor exploitation
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Traditional fashion: clothing and accessories are released two to four times a year, usually coinciding with the traditional fashion seasons of summer, autumn, winter, and spring.
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In fashion industry Time is a critical parameter: for the instability of demand and short life cycle of apparel products
Traditional fashion brands start the design of the collections many months before their market launch. This results in high risks of failure
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Fast Fashion
Definition ( from Financial Times): “Fast fashion companies copy catwalk looks and tend to use extremely efficient supply chains to release more of these collections each year than other retailers. Items are sold cheaply and released quickly into stores.”Designed and manufactured quickly and cheaply to allow consumers to buy trendy styles at a lower price.
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Fast fashion ( from Macmillan dictionary) : a term used to describe cheap and affordable clothes which are the result of catwalk designs moving into stores in the fastest possible way in order to respond to the latest trends
Fast fashion or McFashion
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Enhances product design capabilities to capture the latest consumer trends Reduces lead times in design, production and distribution ( i. e. all the phases of the supply chain)
Fast fashion
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Fast Fashion is a disposable Fashion
Delivers designed product to a mass market at relatively low prices
Fabric and construction quality is low and often doesn’t withstand washing
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Main bricks of fast fashionFast fashion model is based on the folowing fundamental bricks:• Production lead times reduced to a matter
of weeks• Garments are transformed from the design
stage to the retail floor in only a few weeks• Cheap prices • Consumers are stimulated to purchase more
than they need by low prices
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Companies of fast fashion as Zara, H&M, Gap and Forever 21 identify the prevailing trends during the presentations of collections of the traditional fashion brands (presented at least one season in advance ) and design, produce and send at stores in few weeks ( 2-3 weeks) .
This model allow to propose products that are always ‘fashionable’.
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Fast fashion brings the latest designer-inspired fashions to the masses very rapidly and cheaply Consumers can buy trendy items at affordable prices.
Profit: • products are rapidly produced and consumed
in large quantities, • consumers are expected to buy multiple
items at once, discard them shortly, and buy new items again.
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An efficient supply chains is central to to design and manufactur quickly and inexpensively as well as to arrive fastly in shops
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Fast fashion brands are organized generally through an efficient information technology system integrating all activities from design, production, administration, logistic offices as well as retailing stores.
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Fast fashion requires fast marketingCompanies promote the desire of which the consumers buy the last articles that exist on the market. On having diminished the times of design and of manufacture, the consumers feel incited to buy these products as rapidly as possible, that is to say, across the advertising campaigns and the merchandising they create an instantaneous hook for the client and create a buying experience.
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Fast fashion brands must maintain a fast marketing strategy to keep the attention of the consumer at the continuous new fashion products
“buy it now” is the message transmitted at the consumers
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Fast fashion increases consumption
We buy more clothes than we actually need!
Quickly-changing trends and low prices stimulate consuming and discarding clothing
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The average person buys 60 percent more items of clothing and keeps them for about half as long as 15 years ago
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25 pants/shorts 25 tops 40 dresses/suits/Jackets
25 accessories
5 shoes 5 leather shoes
10 lingeries
Wardrobe of a typical Fast Fashion consumer( from TheFashionCult )
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• Fast fashion retailers have significantly higher sell-through rates compared to traditional fashion retailers.
• The fast fashion retailers are able of selling at as much as 85 percent of the full product price as opposed to the traditional fashion industry average of 60 percent.
• Fast fashion retailers achieve profitability about two times higher of that of traditional fashion retailers.
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A cheap T-shirt: what is the gain for the worker?
From a 2011 report realized by O’Rourke Group Partners considering a $14 polo shirt sold in Canada and made in Bangladesh ( from Mcleans )
Workers gains just 12 cents for a shirt( 2% of the wholesale cost.)
Factory Overhead $ 0.07
Factory margin $ 0.58
Freight/insurance/duties $ 1.03
Agent $ 0.18
Labour $ 0,12
Materials and finishing 3.69
COST FOR RETAILER
TOTAL COST FOR RETAILER $5.67
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The hidden costs of the Fast Fashion
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Evonronmental costs
Cheap material is often utilized as polyester in order to get the lower prices Polyester is non-biodegradable, requires enormous energy to be manufactured
The hidden costs of the Fast Fashion
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Environmental costs: Millions of tons of clothes winding up in trash bins, incinerators and landfills.About 95 percent of the clothes could be used again or recycled but the vast majority ends up in landfills or incinerators
The hidden costs of the Fast Fashion
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Example of environment pollution by a Fast Fashion Brand
%Breakdown of climate impacts across H&M value chain
Data from Harvad Business School – Digital Initiative
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Low wages, forced labour, unhealthy and dangerous working conditions, and child labour
It is estimated that 168 million children aged five to 14 are forced to work In the fashion and luxury industry
The hidden costs of the Fast Fashion
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Child labour is a particular issue for fashion because much of the supply chain requires low-skilled labour and some tasks are even better suited to children than adults. In cotton picking, employers prefer to hire children for their small fingers, which do not damage the crop ( from International Labor Oprganisation). /Image from
https://www.flickr.com/photos/iloasiapacific/16083696922
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In the slums of Dhaka in Bangladesh two thirds ( 66%) of girl labourers are working in the garments sector, while boys are 16%.
Average hours worked in a week by a child in the Dhaka slums: 64 hours!
From an article of Ecouterre based on a research of Overseas Development Institute
Who pays the price for our clothing?
A brutal reality
The garment industry in Bangladesh has a value of $19 billion-a-year —the world’s second-largest after China
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Who pays the price for our clothing?
“The True Cost” a documentary released in 2015, set out to expose the many ills of the fashion industry.
The ‘True Cost’ documentary opened people’s eyes to the horrors of the fast fashion industry. The video shows the harsh treatment and conditions of the people making our clothes.
See the documentary
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The catastrophic Dhaka fire in 2012 and the 2013 Rana Plaza building collapse killed over 1,200 Bangladeshi apparel workers and injured many more.
Who pays the price for our clothing?
By rijans (Flickr: Dhaka Savar Building Collapse) [CC BY-SA 2.0 (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/2.0)], via Wikimedia Commons
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The most popular Fast fashion Brands
• Zara• H&M• Topshop• Forever 21
• Urban Outfitters• United Colors of
Benetton• Mango• Gap
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Everyone can do simple things to make a difference, and every little bit really does count ( Stella McCartney)
I like to think fashion call tell a story not only based on values (Valerie Goosr. Founder Kitty Ferreira)
“Time is the luxury – everything is going too fast. To make something beautiful. You have to take the time with it”- Haider Ackermann
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Carl Honoré, author of “In Praise of Slowness”
‘Slow approach’ intervenes as a revolutionary process in the contemporary world because it encourages taking time to ensure quality production, to give value to the product, and contemplate the connection with the environment.
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Slow Fashion
High quality fashion you would wear for years
Slow Fashion can be the answer
In the future the fashion industry become more sustainable?
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Slow Fashion was first conied in 2008 by Kate Fletcher starting from the experience of Slow Food founded by Carlo Petrini in Italy in 1986, Slow Food links pleasure and food with awareness and responsibility.
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Slow is not the opposite of fast
It’s a different approach in which designers, buyers, retailers and consumers are more aware of the impacts of products on workers, communities and ecosystems.
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Slow fashion in synthesis: • clothing which lasts a long time and is often
made from locally-sourced or fair-trade material
• Ethical manufacturing taking into consideration the workers and environment by assuring the workers are paid fair wages and are provided a safe working environment
• High Quality of products and slowing down consuming
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Values of the Slow Fashion
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Environmental sustainability : use of natural products, recycling, local production processes minimizing that minimize the mobility of goods
Social sustainability: fair treatment of workers, taking into account the workers' terms and conditions, child labor and underpaid, and enhances the use of local labor skills, and invest with a medium- and long vision in labor in developing countries (Africa, Asia,…);
Enhancing communities: Utilization of local materials and resources when possible and try to support the development of local businesses and skills
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Slowing down consumption: buying fewer products, but higher in value, emphasis on quality, recycling of used clothing , consumer awareness of environmental and social sustainability of the producer.
Quality and enduring design values: apparel items are made from better-quality materials, which are more durable and will last longer than clothing manufactured using fast fashion methods.
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Slow fashion: reuse and recycling
Reuse: means reusing products in other contexts (markets, consumer types, the fashion industry, ...).
•Recycling: concerns products, waste and / or waste of a company and their transformation to re-insert them in new production processes and thus enable a new life cycle
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DESIGN sustainability,
ecological, green and ethical processes
PRODUCTIONQuality
Local ,fair labor, safe working, paid
fairly
ConsumptionEducation to
quality, recycling,
reuse
SLOW FASHION PROCESS
BRAND RETAILER CONSUMER
From https://edgexpo.com/tag/slow-fashion/
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Fast Fashion Slow Fashion
Quality Low High
Production Global Local
Customer interaction Low High
Innovation Fast, constant style changes Low, timeless design
Production range Large selection of products Small choice among high quality products
Fabrics Low quality High quality
Labour costs Low High
Labour forces Outsources labor sweatshop in developing countries
Usually locally made
Sustainability Impossible to produce eco-friendly and ethical clothing
Sustainable, ethical
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One relevant milestone of slow fashion : consume less, more consciously and responsibly.
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Examples from Triple Pundit
Example: ( from Junk and Jin) :T-shirts Made & Crafted,” from the sustainable line of Levi Strauss cost $50, while H&M men’s T-shirts cost $5.95
Fast fashion pants are $17.90, while slow fashion pants are $128.
An on-trend dress from a fast fashion retailer sells for $15.90, while a similar dress from a slow fashion site goes for $145
A fast fashion sweater is $24.90, and a slow fashion sweater is $160;
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The slow fashion, for its higher prices compared to mass-produced apparel, is able to sustain businesses?
Low speed and small quantity production cannot compete with fast fashion companies and higher pricing may not generate today sufficient demand for slow fashion.
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Consumer has an important role or maybe the crucial role in the concept of slow fashion
Consumers with their choices and behaviours are the only ones who can make real change
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A need
Creating the slow fashion consumer
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Consumers must be conscious about their shopping decisions
It’s important that people know what they are buying and take care of its clothing items
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Being aware of where your clothing comes from
Making decisions based on quality rather than quantity
Buy less
Take care of your clothing
To be an aware consumer
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From ligaturejournalChoosing Slow Fashion means simply: to take responsibility for the choices you make around your consumption of clothing. • How much clothing you choose to own• Where the materials are sourced from• What the materials are and how they are processed• Who makes them and the conditions they work under• The industry that surrounds the making of those clothes• The transport miles involved in getting it from where it
was grown and made to you• The longevity and durability of the piece• What happens to the piece of clothing after it is no
longer useful to you or wearable.
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Today we live in a “society of product-consumers, not owners. And there’s a difference. Owners are empowered to take responsibility for their purchases—from proper cleaning to repairing, reusing and sharing.Consumers take, make, dispose and repeat—a pattern that is driving us towards ecological bankruptc hereby avoiding the CO2 emissions, waste output and water usage required to build it.”
By Patagonia
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It’s important that people know what
they are buying.
Making decisions based on quality
rather than quantity
The consumer must be
aware of the whole
process. From the design to
the production and the use.
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Consumer must be able to make “informed buying decisions”; this implies the availability of clear standards in slow fashion industry and easily to be understood.
“It is time for slow fashion to come together as an industry to define itself, set clear standards” ( by WhyDev)
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Slow fashion standards should have three primary goals ( from Whydev.org) :
• to help the public make informed buying decisions
• to fend off dishonorable companies• to create an identity for the slow fashion
movement
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A video explaining GOTS standard
The standard : GOTSGOTS is an abbreviation for Global Organic Textile Standard and it’s the Global leading certificate for organic products which include ecological as well as social criteria
GOTS defines requirements to ensure organic status of textiles, from harvesting of the raw materials, through environmentally and socially responsible manufacturing up to labeling in order to provide a credible assurance to the end consumer.
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Be aware of where your clothing comes from
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“100% cotton. Made in Cambodia by Behnly, nine years old. He gets up at 5:00 am every morning to make his way to the garment factory where he works. It will be dark when he arrives and dark when he leaves. He dresses lightly because the temperature in the room he works reaches 30 degrees. The dust in the room fills his nose and mouth. He will make less than a dollar, for a day spent slowly suffocating. A mask would cost the company ten cents. The label doesn’t tell the whole story.”
MADE INCAMBODIA
The Label Doesn’t Tell the Whole StoryA campaign created by the Canadian Fair Trade Network.
It highlights the point that a garment’s tag really doesn’t tell you much
The campaign aims make people aware of conditions the devastating conditions that persist for many workers in garment factories around the world.
http://cftn.ca/sites/default/files/Fair_Trade_End_Child_Labour_Sweater_2000px_0.jpg
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“Sourced In" initiative, which will look beyond the “Made in…” tag by Zady
Starting from the Zady Essential Collection label gives data about environmental, ethical and economic factors throughout every step of production, "from farm to finish factory.“
The entire production process can be watched online
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According to a recent survey commissioned by the British charity Barnardo’s, a majority of women’s garments are worn seven before being pushed to the back of the closet or tossed into the garbage ( from The Atlantic)Buy less Chose well Make it last--------------Vivienne Westwood
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Buy less and choose timeless garments that will last for many seasons Wear the same items over and over againLimit the number of pieces in your closet, but choice high quality garments
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Before you purchase an item of clothing, ask yourself some of these questions ( from tashamillergriffith.com)
• Do I need this?• Can I see myself wearing this frequently? Does it go with
what’s already in my closet?• When I look at this, what message does it send? Is that the
message I want people to get when they see me?• Do I need this many?• Is this so cheaply made, or so trendy, that it won’t last me
very long?• Am I shopping for something I really need, or is this “retail
therapy”?
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In fast fashion a clothing item is wearing on average five times
Wearing a clothing item 50 times instead 5 reduces carbon emissions by 400% for item and for year
………......…
1 2 3 4 5 6 …………….. 49 50
1 2 3 4 5
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Take care of your garments
Wash them right
Dry them right
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Wash and dry of clothing items can reduce the carbon footprint if some simple rules are adopted:– Utilize green laundry detergent, with biodegradable
and phosphate free ingredients;– setting your washing machine to use cold water, As
an example wahing at 30 degrees Celsius the carbon footprint is 0.6 kgwhile at 60 degrees is 3.3 kg
– when possible use hand washing– when possible avoid the drying machines
Example: during a single t-shirts life cycle, approximately 75% of its carbon footprint will be caused from the consumers machine washing and drying techniques
Carbon footprint is the measure of the environmental impact of a particular activities , measured in kilograms of CO2 (Carbon dioxide).
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Reuse
Take care of your garments Repair
Recycling
Upcycling ( or creative reuse) : transforming by-products, waste materials, useless, or unwanted products into new materials or products of better quality or for better environmental
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IF IT’S BROKEN FIX IT
Repair is a radical act ( by Patagonia)
An innovative initiative by Patagonia
Product Care and Repair: Patagonia has published a set of 40 Repair Care Guides for its items to ensure a long life to its items
Reuse & Recycle: customer can send back to Patagonia any product arrived at the end of its life cycle s to be recycled or repurposed
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Some simple and obvious rules to be an aware consumer ( by Kate Fletcher)
Tips to slow down your wardrobe:– Repair your clothes with a smile (it’s
easier than going shopping)– Or ask stores about repair services… that
may get them thinking– Ask your friends for new ideas about how
to wear the garments you already have… it’s always good to wear things in a new way.
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A non-ehaustive list of slow fashion brands ( ½)
Alternative Apparel Amour VertBegoodBlue Canoe .CP ShadesDeadwood EcoAlfEileen Fisher Esprit
EthicaG-star RawIndustry Of All Nations FjällrävenJan ‘n JuneKowtowMade&More Mela ArtisansMinna Nau
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A non-exhaustive list of slow fashion brands (2/2)
Osborne ShoesOutdoor VoicesPachacutiPatagonia People tree Ltd Polly WalesRaven + LilyReformation Stella McCartney
Synergy Toad & CoThe Sept Label Under the CanopyUnited by BlueWills London WoodzeZady
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CanepaCangiari Carmina CampusCeeBeeDienpi Fera LibensGarbagelab
A non-ehaustive list of italian slow fashion brands
Italdenim ITV denimMade In CarcereNokike Par.Co DenimQuagga
