GRAY COVERAGEMastey Certification Program

1 to 1 mixing ratioAlways make sure color and developer match up

Processing TimesDyes are all oxidative and need to process fully for best results

WHY DOES HAIR TURN GRAY?Decreased Melanin Production from the body.

STAGES OF GRAY3 steps of diminished melanin production

HOW DOES HAIR GROW3 stages of natural hair growth

INDIVIDUAL HAIR CYCLESEach hair strand has it’s own lifespan.

HOW FAST DOES GRAY GROWThe same as regular hair.

TEXTURE AND POROSITY CHANGESCourse, Compact Cuticle, Wiry, Dry

FACTORS FOR HEALTHY HAIR GROWTHSummer Weather, Healthy Diet, Certain Fruits & Vitamins

NOTICEABILITY OF GRAY HAIRDifferent Hair Levels Show Gray Differently

COLOR FORMULATIONIt’s Like Cooking!

Cookie Recipe

Egg + Flour + Water + Sugar + Salt + Vanilla

Maybe Raisins, or Oatmeal, or Chocolate Chips

What if I added more sugar or more salt? How does that change it?

What if I add pecans?

Your own recipe is what makes you special, and your own formulas is what sets you apart.

OUR INGREDIENTSThe Color Wheel

NEUTRAL = BROWNBlue + Red + Yellow = Brown

NEUTRAL = BROWNBlue + Red = Violet & Violet + Yellow = Brown

NEUTRAL = BROWNBlue + Yellow = Green & Green + Red = Brown

NEUTRAL = BROWNRed + Yellow = Orange & Orange + Blue = Brown

NEUTRAL = BROWNOrange + Purple + Green = Brown

Mastey Tonal Values.0 - Naturals

.00 - Double Naturals

.1 - Ash

.2 - Platinum

.3 - Gold

.4 - Copper

.5 - Mahogany

.6 - Red

.07 - Deep Blue

.9 Tobacco

.0 - Pale Violet

.00 - Violet/Gold

.1 - Blue

.2 - Violet

.3 - Yellow

.4 - Orange

.5 - Red / Brown

.6 - Red

.07 - Deep Blue

.9 - Purple/Orange/Green

Tones BreakdownCool Tones

.0

.00

.1

.2

Warm Tones

.3

.4

.5

.6

Special Tones

.07

.9

GRAY COVERAGESimple Solution = Use Double Natural Shades

Double Natural Formula

Example Formula

5.00 + 20 Volume

Double Natural Formula

5.00 Color Breakdown

5.00 = 5.0 + 4.0 + 5.3

No Stain Dyes

No PPDs

No PTDs

5.0 & 4.0 has a VIOLET base

With more depth due to level mixture

5.3 has a GOLD base

.00 = 2 Violet + 1 Yellow

Violet = Red + Blue

Red + Blue + Yellow = Brown

Brown = 100% Gray Coverage

Tonal Bases of .00

ADDING TONAL VALUEDouble Natural + Secondary Tone

5.00 + 5.34 Chocolate Brown with 100% Gray Coverage

.00 + Secondary Tone

Deeper Coverage

3/4 (.00) + 1/4 (Tone)

1.5 oz (5.00) + .5 oz (5.34)

More Tonal Value

1/2 (.00) + 1/2 (Tone)

1 oz (5.00) + 1 oz (5.34)

5.00 + 5.1 Cool Ash Brown with 100% Gray Coverage

5.00 + 5.3 Golden Brown with 100% Gray Coverage

.00 + Amplifier

Deeper Coverage

7/8 (.00) + 1/8 (Tone)

1.825 oz (5.00) +.125 oz (37)

More Tonal Value

3/4 (.00) + 1/4 (Tone)

1.75 oz (5.00) + .25 oz (37)

5.00 + 37 Amplifier Green Ash Brown with 100% Gray Coverage

Matching Matte Colors

Used when trying to match new growth to ends that have a lot of demi-color build up.

Strand test

5.00 + 4.0

3/4 (5.00) + 1/4 (4.0)

Gray Color Wash Highlights

Select 1 to 2 levels lighter than existing hair color

Formulate with 10 volume

Process for 25-30 minutes

Creates Color Wash that fades over time and blends with new gray growth.

Gray Color Wash Highlights

Existing Level 7

Target for Highlights Level 9

9.23 + 10 Volume

Process for 25-30 minutes

Demi Gray Formula

1oz Teinture

2 oz Instantane

1 oz 20 Volume

Demi Gray Formula

1oz - 9.23 Teinture

2 oz - 9.23 Instantane

1 oz - 20 Volume

30 Minute Processing

Red HeadsTips:

Darker Root Base Formula

For more red vibrancy add red to your above formula

Pay attention to the type of gray hair

Never mix a red with a neutral you may get purple

Pay Attention To% of gray

underlying pigment

whether you are lifting or depositing

are you going to use heat to process

what peroxide volume: 20 or 30?

Avoiding Hot Roots

Root Formula Darker

Target Level 5

Mids & Ends Lighter

Target Level 6

Basic Formulas

Gray Hair that is in the Translucent Stage

Use (.6) RED or (.4) COPPER or(.5) MAHOGANY shade

Add % of GOLD to help with gray coverage

1.5 oz RED + .5 oz GOLD

1.5 oz (5.6) + .5 oz (5.3)

Basic Formulas

Gray Hair that is in the Gray Stage

Use (.6) RED or (.4) COPPER or(.5) MAHOGANY shade

Add % of (.3) & % of (.00) to help withgray coverage

1.5 oz (5.6) + .25 oz (5.3) + .25 oz (5.00)

Basic Formulas

Gray Hair that is in the White Stage

Use (.6) RED or (.4) COPPER or (.5) MAHOGANY shade

Add % of (.3) & high % of (.00) to help withgray coverage

.5 oz (5.6) + .5 oz (5.3) + 1 oz (5.00)

Client over 50% gray white hair

New growth Formula:

2 oz. - (5.00)

1 oz. - (6.46)

1 oz. - (6.4)

Client over 50% gray white hair

Teinture Formula:5.00 (2oz) + 6.46 (1 oz) + 6.4 (1 oz)

Formula Breakdown:(1oz) 5.00 + (1 oz) 5.00 + (1oz) 6.46 + (1oz) 6.4

(1oz) 5.00 + (1 oz) 5.00 + (2/3oz) 6.4 + (1/3oz) 6.6 + (1oz) 6.4

1 VIOLET + 1 GOLD + 1 VIOLET + 1 GOLD + 2/3 COPPER + 1/3 RED + 1 RED

1/2 BLUE + 1/2 RED + 1 GOLD + 1/2 BLUE + 1/2 RED + 1 GOLD + 1/3 GOLD + 1/3 RED + 1/3 RED + 1 RED

3/6 BLUE + 3/6 RED + 6/6 GOLD + 3/6 BLUE + 3/6 RED + 6/6GOLD + 2/6 GOLD + 2/6 RED + 2/6 RED + 6/6 RED

6/6 BLUE + 16/6 RED + 14/6 GOLD

1 BLUE + 2 1/3 GOLD + 2 2/3 RED

1 BROWN + 1 1/3 GOLD + 1 2/3 RED

Salt & Pepper

1oz - Teinture

1 oz - 10 Volume

15-20 Minutes Processing

Salt & Pepper

1 oz - 5.1 Teinture

1 oz - 10 Volume

15-20 Minutes Processing

PEROXIDE CHOICEDependent on your client

TROUBLE SPOTSTemples and Hair line

Trouble ShootingPROBLEM 1: Severe build up from facial / skin products

Lotions, Moisturizers, Cremes

Medicinal / Acne / Corrective Cremes

Facial Toners

Foundations & Other Make up

Trouble ShootingSOLUTION 1: Remove build up before color process

Use Me First Pre-Treatment

Apply to temple and hairline area

Lather & Let Sit for a few minutes

Rinse

Re-apply UMF to entire head, Lather, & Rinse

Trouble ShootingPROBLEM 2: Texture or State Change

More Compact Cuticle

Thicker / Courser Hair Shaft at Base

Finer and more compact cuticle

Dryer Less Moisturized Hair

Oily hair

Trouble ShootingSOLUTION 1: Application Change

Use Me First Pre-Treatment

Double Application Technique

Apply Hair Color Mixture to hair line and temples first

Apply Color Mixture in paper thin sections through our 4 quadrants

Re-apply color to hair line and temple area

Ensure there is proper saturation throughout hair

Trouble ShootingSOLUTION 2: Pre-Softening the Cuticle

Use Me First Pre Treatment

Use Developer to Pre-Soften Stubborn Gray

Apply 20 Volume Mastey Developer to stubborn grays

Let sit for 5 minutes

Wipe off

Apply Color Mixture, making sure to apply first to stubborn areas

Trouble ShootingSolution 3: Pre-Pigmenting the Cuticle with Color

Use Me First Pre-Treatment

Apply Lower Level Color Mixture to stubborn area

Let sit while you apply desired formula through out hair

Re-Apply Desired formula over Stubborn Areas

Make sure to blend colors on the reapplication

Proper MoistureSolution 4: Pre-Moisturize Gray before color

Use Me First Pre-Treatment

Apply Moisturee Moisturizing Treatment

Leave in for 5 minutes then Rinse

Proper moisture balance allows gray hair to accept other ingredients

Moisture will trap in color and amino acids for longer lasting better coverage

PH OF HAIR = 5

Trouble ShootingSOLUTION 4: Raise pH of hair higher to open up compact cuticle.

Alter color formula to raise developer by 5 or 10 volumes

Alter color selection by lowering tint level by 1 level

Original Formula

5. 0 + 20 Volume

New Formula

4. 0 + 25 or 30 Volume

Double Pigment FormulaSOLUTION 5: Increase Amount of Pigments in Color Formula

Dilute Stronger Volume Peroxides with Color Instantane to create a pre-pigmented developer that you mix with permanent color.

This Doubles the amount of color pigments in your formula

2oz of 20 Volume Developer

Making 20 Volume Developer

Making 20 Volume Pre-Pigmented Developer

200% Color Formula

COLOR MAGNETSAcidic Dyes attach to Oxidative dyes like magnets

Teinture = Oxidative Dye Instantane = Acidic Dye

200% COLOR PIGMENTSMore pigment in the hair makes for longer lasting richer color

Final TipsExtra things you can do to help with gray coverage

Process under heat

Extend timing of color process

Make sure to properly saturate the hair / Use enough product

Scoring technique when applying color

QUESTIONS100% Gray Coverage

Repairing Treatment System

Proper PreparationA Clean Canvas

Color Safe Hair PurifierRemove Build up without stripping color or causing dryness or damage

Extremely Damaged Hair Repair over processed and damaged hair with SuperPac and Moisturee