OM490 VOCABULARY

• You need to know this stuff

• There will be a test

• What will happen to you if you don’t learn this

Hause of Howe

• Men’s line: Cowboy punk meets English Country Gentleman

• Women’s: Miss Kitty meets Emma Peel (?)

Types of garments

• What is your line plan?• Who will be wearing this/what size range?• Will one garment be the focus?• Can one garment sell the line/concept?• Will too many garments cloud the message and

interfere with ability to meet deadlines?• What does Jade Howe want? Who will he serve?• What will Union Bay do?

Women’s Bottoms

– Pants (fit)• Flat cut Hip hugger Boot cut

• Pleated Leggings

– Skirts (length, closure, fit)• Straight

• Pegged

• A-Line

Zippers

• Overlap

• Exposed

• Invisible

• Fly

Women’s Woven Tops

• Keep sleeve type, collar and closure in mind when you plan the top– Shirt – Blouse– Camp Shirt– Western Cut– Shell

Collars

• Tailored

• Mandarin

• Notched

• Convertible (open/closed)

Sleeves

• Set in

• Shirt

• Raglan

• Dolman

• Cap

Cuffs

• Vented

• Ruffle

• Roll up

• French

Knit Tops

• Halter Top

• Polo Shirt

• T-Shirt

• Tank

Necklines

• Sweetheart

• V-neck

• Jewel

• Square

Sweaters

• Cardigan

• Pullover

• Turtleneck/mock turtleneck

• V-neck

Jackets and Coats

• Blazer

• Pea coat

• Trench

Line Plan

• A list of what will be produced for a specific offering– Need to know

• Season

• Color’s

• Theme

Minimums

• Applies to– Garments– Fabric– Findings

Woven

• Two or more yarns interlaced at right angles– Warp yarns

• Run lengthwise, parallel to selvage, most stable direction, straight of grain

– Weft Yarns• Cross wise (“weft to Wight”), fill, cross grain, most

give

– Bias

Knit

• Formation of fabric by the inter-looping of one or more sets of yarns

– Wales vertical columns of stitches

– Courses are the horizontal rows

– Examples

• Warp knit

– Tricot, lace

• Weft Knit

– Single knit (jersey, velour)

– Double (interlock, rib)

Sustainable

• Fabric that is used

• Manufacturing Method/Factory

• Use of garment alone

Concept Board

• Tear Sheet

• Swatches

• Start it now with your idea book

Knock Off

• The cut or details of a garment cannot be copyrighted under existing law,

although logos and original prints can be protected

• Illegal and legal

Silhouette

• The outline or shape of the garment

Pre-production garments

• Sketch

• Muslin

• Proto

• Size run

• Wear test

• Pre-production

• TOP (Top of Production)

Target Customer

• Different issues when you are designing clothes

Fit Model

• Your responsibility to find one.

• Standard size and look– Men’s sizing for Hause of Howe

• Medium 41” chest

• Large 44

• XL 46 ½”

• XXL 49”

Labeling issues

• Care and Content

• Country of Origin

• Hang Tags

Types of Stitches

• Lockstitch

• Over lock

• Cover stitch

• Flat lock

• Seamless/Bemis/Welded

• Top Stitch (single needle/double needle)

Pattern making and layout

• Grading

• Marker

• Selvage

• Ease

Preparation for presentation to factory

• Spec pack/Tech Pack– Bill of Materials (BOM)– Trims– Findings– Points of Measure– Sequence of Construction

Fabric Terms

• Greige Goods – Any fabric that has not been finished

• Vegetable Fiber (cotton, linen, silk, hemp)• Animal Fiber (wool, leather)• Man made• Denier

– Yarn or fiber size– DPF (yarn size divided by # of filaments)

Fabric Coloring

• Yarn Dye

• Piece Dye

• Product Dye

• Problems and remedies– Shading/streaks– Dye lot difference

Embellishment Methods

Embroidery– Digitize

Screen Print

Heat Transfer

Sublimation - no use of liquid. From paper to fabric – through and through.

Printing (Roller printing, discharge, ink jet)

Embellishment Problems

• Migration/Bleeding

• Crocking

FOB

• Freight on Board

Tariff

– Also called Harmonized Tariff Code (HTC), this coding system is used by the U.S. Government to classify U.S. imports and exports. These codes can be up to 10 digits long. Exports codes (called Schedule B) are administered by the U.S. Census Bureau. Import codes are administered by the U.S. International Trade Commission (USITC). Some GATT member nations also use this system. Here is an example of a hierarchy from HS:

– 61 Articles of apparel and clothing accessories, knitted or crocheted6103 Men's or boys' suits, ensembles, suit-type jackets....knitted or crocheted6103.19 Of other textile materials6103.19.20 Of cotton6103.19.20.10 Jackets imported as parts of suits

Post Production Issues

• Compliance

• Inspection

• Standards/Tolerances

• Quality Control – in house and/or at factory

• Packing/shipping– Folding

Pantone

Carry over

Croquis

Factory Terms

• Spreader• Bundling• Station system –

– each part is completed at a station then goes to a central location

• Continuous System– Begins as parts and does not come off the line

until it is done