Hair After Cancer

Hair After Cancer

A comprehensive guide to treating and caring for the hair and scalps of cancer survivors

1 www.OrganicSalonSystems.com (888) 213-‐4744

Medical Disclaimer

Nothing in this presentation should be considered or relied upon as medical advice. Medical patients should always seek the advice of their physicians before making any decisions regarding their health. Organic Salon Systems does not, and anything in this presentation should not be considered as, providing medical advice of any kind whatsoever.


Outline of Presentation

This aftercare presentation will cover the following points:

Introduction: Introduction to Organic Salon Systems

Section A: Review of essential information about hair and scalp, including ethnic differences

Section B: Effect of cancer treatments on hair. Hair analysis and correct treatment of hair

Section C: Coloring, perming and straightening hair after cancer

Section D: FAQ’s


Organic Salon Systems The worldwide leader in more natural, organic, and gentler professional-only salon products that eliminate or minimize the harmful and dangerous chemicals while providing the hairstylist with superior performance

Online: http://www.OrganicSalonSystems.com

Facebook: http://www.Facebook.com/OrganicSalonSystems

YouTube: http://www.YourTube.com/OrganicColorSystems

Twitter: http://www.Twitter.com/OrganicColorSys

Color Site: http://www.OrganicColorSystems.com

Phone: (888) 312-4744

Fax: (727) 585-2300

Email: [email protected]


Organic Salon Systems Products

• Free from ammonia, parabens, formaldehyde, resorcinol, and thioglycolates.

• Contain CerFfied Organic Ingredients (cerFfied by the United Kingdom Soil AssociaFon)

• Exceeding all European Union standards regulaFng cosmeFcs and beauty products

• PETA cerFfied as being 100% cruelty-‐free and vegan

• Fair-‐Trade accredited and cerFfied

Organic Color Systems (Color)

• 65 intermixable colors • Superior grey coverage, cleaner blondes, & beauFful reds that fade on tone

• No damage to the hair cuFcle allowing for a far healthier and lavish result

• Up to 3 levels of liV with color & 7 levels of liV with lightener

• True to color chart results • Semi, demi or permanent results • Longer lasFng tonal values

Organic Curl Systems

Organic Curl Systems is an innovaFve perm, straightener, and relaxer that is both ammonia and thioglycolate free, while containing cerFfied organic extracts. It produces a bounce and curl formaFon that is healthy and looks natural.

Organic Care Systems Organic Care Systems not only is the perfect back bar for the color line but, your clients will also love to take them home to maintain their hair between visits. These products contain no animal products, parabens or SLS. They are never tested on animals and are made with cerFfied organic ingredients.

The Organic Control and Connect lines give all the styling hold and manipulaFon you have come to expect without the use of heavy chemicals or plasFcs. They give great shine and a natural feel, never drying briYle or hard.

KeraGreen

KeraGreen is a revoluFonary new formaldehyde-‐free organic keraFn system. It includes a full line of treatments, shampoos, condiFoners, and serums providing a more natural, organic, healthier and beYer-‐performing alternaFve to formaldehyde-‐based Brazilian KeraFn Treatments.

Malibu Wellness

Malibu Wellness products use a patented, fresh dried vitamin complex that is water acFvated to normalize the ph of the hair and scalp and remove minerals and oxidizers to ensure consistent and superior salon services. Great for areas and salons with hard water condiFons.

Section A

Essential Information About the Hair and Scalp


The Structure of Hair

Hair can be divided into 3 main elements:

The cuticle

The cortex

The medulla


The Cuticle

This is the outer layer of hair and comprises between 7 and 10 layers of flat scales.

It protects the cortex underneath it.

It is transparent.

Take the pH up the scale and the cuticle opens Lower the pH and the cuticle closes down.

The cuticle can be damaged by daily combing and brushing, as well as environmental influences, e.g. the sun.


The Cortex

The cortex makes up the majority of the hair.

It is here that we can permanently alter the color or shape of the hair.

The cortex also determines how strong and how elastic the hair is.

The color pigments are found in the cortex.


The Medulla

The medulla is found in the centre of the hair.

It is a hollow shaft and is often fragmented, rather than being a continuous tube.

It is believed that the original function of the medulla was to assist with insulation – this function is present in the fur of many animals.


The Composition of Hair

Hair is composed partially from a special protein called keratin.

Keratin is formed from a collection of amino acids, which form chains.

These chains are held together by chemical bonds and there are 2 types:

Temporary, e.g. hydrogen bonds, which can be broken through regular processes (washing, blow drying).

Permanent, e.g. disulfide bonds, which are insoluble in water.

Cystine is an amino acid that forms disulfide bonds and cystine can account for up to 24% of keratin in hair.

When we color hair, it is the protein in hair that the color pigments attach to and so it is essential to have the correct protein levels.


The Composition of Hair

The rest of our hair is made up of water, fatty acids and other trace elements.

Moisture levels can fluctuate according to external influences, such as drying, the sun and humidity levels in the hair.

When hair becomes damaged and loses protein, moisture levels increase, as more moisture is absorbed to take the place of the protein

This is why protein and moisture balance is critical.


The Growth Cycle of Hair


The Growth Cycle of Hair

The characteristics of our hair is determined in the follicle.

Once the hair leaves the follicle, these characteristics do not change naturally.

We have around 100,000 to 150,000 follicles on our scalp.

The cells that create our hair are formed in the dermal papilla

They reproduce at the fastest rate of all cells in the human body.

Each follicle produces approximately 10 - 26 hairs in a person’s lifetime.

On average we shed around 100 hairs per day as part of the natural growth cycle.


Ethnic Differences

The shape of the hair (straight, wavy, curly) is influenced by the shape of the hair follicle and its position in the scalp.

Different ethnic groups have some shared common characteristics.

There are 3 basic groups:

Caucasian

Asian

Afro-Caribbean.


Caucasian Hair

Hair shaft: Oval

Diameter of hair: Mid thickness

Shape of hair: Straight, wavy or curly

color of hair: Blonde, brown or red

Growth rate of hair: Approximately 1.2cm per month

Number of hair follicles: Highest number


Asian Hair

Hair shaft: Round

Diameter of hair: Thickest

Shape of hair: Straight

color of hair: Black


Number of hair follicles: Lowest number


Afro-Caribbean Hair

Hair shaft: Flat

Diameter of hair: Finest

Shape of hair: Curly, tightly coiled

color of hair: Black


Number of hair follicles: Mid number


Hair Types Comparison

Hair Shaft

Thickness Shape color Rate of Growth

Density of Hair

Follicles

Caucasian Oval Mid-thickness

Straight, wavy, curly

Blonde, brown, red

1.2cm/ month

Most dense

Asian Round Thickest Straight Black 1.3cm/ month

Least dense

Afro-Caribbean

Flat Finest Curly, tightly coiled

Black 0.9cm/ month

Mid-density


The Scalp

Our skin comprises 3 main layers:

The Subcutaneous Layer:

This contains the blood vessels and nerves that rise up through the other 2 layers.

The Dermis:

This mid layer is composed of collective tissue of collagen and elastin, as well as blood vessels and nerve endings.

This network provides the epidermis above with the nutrients it needs.

Hair follicles are found in the dermis.


The Scalp

The Epidermis:

This top or outer layer provides a barrier against damaging external factors, e.g. UV radiation, micro-organisms and also against water loss.

There are several layers within the epidermis and cells are produced in the lowest one (Basal Layer) and work their way upwards becoming flatter in shape and hard through keratinisation until they reach the final layer (Horny Layer) where they are finally shed.

In humans this shedding is a constant process.


The Scalp

Healthy hair requires a healthy scalp.

Hair needs the correct amounts of nutrients which are supplied through the network of vessels and nerves in the scalp.

A dry, flaky scalp may not be able to carry out its protective function against external factors and may itself be sensitive to external factors.


Section B

Hair: Post-Cancer Analysis and Care


The Hair and Cancer - Chemotherapy

The cells that produce our hair have the fastest rate of growth of all cells in the human body. Cancer cells also reproduce rapidly and chemotherapy is designed to target these fast growing cells, which is why our hair can be affected.

The hair may start to grow back before the end of the treatment.

There may be a number of differences between the new hair and the client’s hair before chemotherapy e.g.:

the hair might grow back very fine at first

it may be a different texture or color

it may be curly

it may also be grey.

In most cases, but not all, the hair will revert back to its previous condition.


The Hair and Cancer - Radiotherapy

The hair grows back slower than after chemotherapy.

The hair may also grow back fine.

In some cases, the hair does not grow back or grows back in patches.

After both types of treatment, the hair that grows back is often weak in protein.


The Scalp and Cancer

After chemotherapy, the scalp can be very dry and scaly.

There are specialist treatments available, which may be suitable – the client should discuss this with their consultant/nurse.

These treatments deliver nutrients to the scalp and protect it from harmful environmental influences.

They can also help to repair and moisturise the scalp, reducing irritation and inflammation.

Some ingredients used in such products include:

Biotin, Folic Acid, Niacin, Thiamine HCL, Pantothenic Acid (Panthonol): B vitamins, required for healthy skin, hair and nails.

Chamomile, Aloe Vera, Geranium, Rosemary extracts: anti-inflammatory, anti-septic and soothing agents.

Anti-oxidants, such as fennel, green tea and tocopherol (vitamin E) help to prevent damage caused by unstable molecules.


The Hair and Cancer

Until the hair is long enough, an aqueous cream may be suitable for use on the scalp – the client should discuss this with their consultant/nurse.

Once the hair is long enough, a gentle shampoo and conditioner can be used.

Avoid products containing salt and harsh sulphates and look for ones including plant oils (e.g. Jojoba and Sweet Almond oil), which work in a similar way to the naturally occurring oils from our scalp and condition the hair.

UV filters, e.g. sunflower extract, help to protect the hair from harmful environmental influences.

Anti-oxidants, such as fennel, green tea and tocopherol (vitamin E) help to prevent damage caused by unstable molecules.


Hair Analysis

You have a new client, who has been through chemotherapy and now wants to take off the wig. You need to know how to treat them.

As we have already discussed, hair is a delicate balance of protein, moisture and other elements.

If hair has this correct balance, it will stretch by 30% when wet and return to its original length without any damage to the hair.

The products chosen for each client will depend on the results of their elasticity test.

No stretch – if the hair does not stretch, it is low in moisture.

Stretch and no return – if the hair stretches, but does not return to its original length, then it is low in protein.

Stretch and break – if hair stretches and snaps, then it is low in both moisture and protein.


Hair Analysis


Hair Analysis and Treatment Demonstration


Home Hair Care

Treatments can be highly effective from the first application in the salon.

However, often repeated applications are required to get the hair back to optimum condition.

It is important that the client uses the correct products at home.


Section C

Hair: coloring, Perming and Straightening


coloring The Hair

When: Once the client has at least 3-6 inches of regrowth, it may be possible to consider coloring the hair.

Condition of hair and scalp: coloring should only take place if the hair and scalp are healthy.

Do not color the hair if the hair or scalp are brittle, excessively dry or flaky, irritated or breaking.

It is difficult to obtain a satisfactory result on hair which is not in good condition.


Types of color

Technique Pigment Type Effect on Hair Example Products

Temporary Direct pigment Coats the hair and lasts 1 wash

color mousse

Semi-permanent Direct pigment Coats the hair and lasts 6 – 8 washes

Semi-permanent color

Demi-permanent Oxidative pigment Penetrates the cuticle and lasts more than 8 washes

Permanent color with a low level of peroxide

Permanent Oxidative pigment Changes the existing color in the hair

Permanent color with medium to high level of peroxide


Advice For coloring

Avoid colors containing oxidative pigments for the first few applications – start with temporary and semi-permanent colors until the hair becomes stronger.

When using permanent colors, avoid the darker shades, as these have higher percentages of PPDs / PTDs.

Start with off-the-scalp coloring for the first few applications.

Avoid aggressive chemicals in the hair colors, e.g. ammonia or resorcinol.

Advise the client on a suitable home hair care regime.


coloring The Hair

Always carry out a skin sensitivity test. Ensure you follow the manufacturer’s instructions and allow 48 hours for the test to be completed.

If the client experiences any sort of redness, itching, irritation or inflammation then wash off the color immediately and do not proceed to color the hair.

If the sensitivity test is fine, then carry out a strand test. Our experience has shown that sometimes the color result can end up a couple of shades lighter than expected and a strand test should help to eliminate the need to correct the color at a later stage.

Discuss any concerns or questions you have with the manufacturer of the hair color.


Perming and Straightening The Hair

Follow the advice for coloring regarding condition of the hair and avoid harsh chemicals.

With straightening, the repeated combing of the hair during the process can put it under a lot of stress and particularly hair that is weak in protein can be prone to breaking under these conditions.


Section D

Questions and Answers



Some questions to ask your client:

How long is it since your treatment for cancer has been completed?

Are you currently taking any medication?

Have you experienced any previous reaction to hair color / perms / straightening products?

Is your scalp itchy or sensitive?

Have you ever experienced a reaction to permanent make-up or a skin tattoo?

Which products do you currently use on your hair?

How do you brush / comb / dry your hair?



Some questions to ask your stylist:

What will my hair be like when it grows back?

How long after my treatment will my hair grow back?

How long will it be before my hair returns to how it was before the cancer?

When will I be able to color / perm / straighten my hair?

How often should I get my hair cut?

What products should I use?

What is the best way for me to brush / comb / dry my hair?


Organic Salon Systems The worldwide leader in more natural, organic, and gentler professional-only salon products that eliminate or minimize the harmful and dangerous chemicals while providing the hairstylist with superior performance

Online: http://www.OrganicSalonSystems.com

Facebook: http://www.Facebook.com/OrganicSalonSystems

YouTube: http://www.YourTube.com/OrganicColorSystems

Twitter: http://www.Twitter.com/OrganicColorSys

Color Site: http://www.OrganicColorSystems.com

Phone: (888) 312-4744

Fax: (727) 585-2300

Email: [email protected]


Lifestyle

Hair After Cancer