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RE-CAPH13
Complete the following gridstating how and when tests should be carried out
and expected resultsTEST PURPOSE OF TEST HOW AND WHEN
SHOULD THE TESTS BE CARRIED OUT
EXPECTED RESULT AND INFLUENCE ON COLOURING OR LIGHTENING SERVICES
Skin test To find out if the client’s skin reacts to the chemical’s in the permanent colour to be used.
Cleanse area tint is to be applied with white spirit e.g.. Behind ear or inner elbow, apply raw tint to area and leave to dry, repeat another twice, tell client to report any discomfort.
Leave for 24-48 hrs
If there is no reaction (negative) the treatment can be carried out, if there is a reaction (positive) service cannot be carried out and another service must be offered.
Porosity test To find out how quickly product will be absorbed.
Run fingers and thumb fro point to root along the length of the hair.
consultation
If the cuticle layer is rough it means that the cuticle layer is raised and therefore porous and will quickly absorb product applied. Hair that is smooth is in good condition.
Elasticity test To test the strength of hair
Take a few strands of hair between forefinger and thumb of each hand, gently stretch,
consultation
When released hair should return to its original length. This shows us that the hair is in good condition
Incompatibility test To check if there are chemicals on the hair which will react with the colour product.
A cutting is taken from the hair (back of the head) it is then placed in a solution of hydrogen peroxide and ammonium hydroxide.
Before service is carried out
If this produces bubbles or heat, the hair may even disintegrate. The service must not be carried out.
Why is it important to follow manufacturers instructions for skin
tests
• The manufacturer knows there products/ ingredients and that they can cause harm.
List potential causes of failing to carry out these tests in Q1
Client may need medical treatment.
May cause discomfort.
Hair damage.
Inflamed scalp.
Colour to dark.
Why do we need to record results of the tests on client record card.
For future reference.
Outline principles of colouring7 possible ans
• Client requirements
• Natural hair colour
• Skin tone
• Hair texture
• Condition and porosity of hair
• Product to be used
• Shade and colour requested
Complete grid stating the difference each colouring has on the hair structure
Product effect on hair structureTemporary Lies on the surface of the hair, on the
cuticle and lodge between the scales
Semi-permanent Lies deep into the cuticle under the scales and on the outer edge of the cortex
Quasi-permanent Penetrate the cuticle and the outer of the cortex
Permanent The hair swells and the cuticle opens to allow the product to penetrate the cuticle and enter the cortex. When the hydrogen peroxide is combined with the molecules of colour they enlarge and cannot escape through cuticle as they become trapped.
Bleach The cuticle layer of the hair swells allowing the bleach to enter the cortex. The oxygen from the hydrogen peroxide removes the colour from the natural pigment.
State how different strengths of hydrogen peroxide influence colouring and lightening
Strength of peroxide Effect on colouring and lightening
3 % (10 volume) Has little effect on natural hair colour. Used only with very dark tints or toners.
6 % (20volume) To lighten natural colour 1 shade. Used when adding colour and with certain bleach products. Manufacture’s recommendations must be followed.
9% (30 volume) To lighten natural hair colour 2 to 3 shades. Used with tints to lighten.
12% (40 volume) To lighten natural hair colour generally with high lift tints to give maximum lift.
18% (60 volume) Should never be used on hair
State how the following factors affect your choice of colouring and lightening products and application techniques
factor product Application techniques
Temperature Will not effect choice of colour
Will not effect
Percentage of white hair Select a product for client requirements
Re-growth
Full head
Partial colouring
Positive skin test result Semi or temporary colour Avoid the scalp
Strength of hydrogen peroxide
Quasi, permanent or bleach Full head
Re-growth
Partial colour
Foils or meche packages
Porosity of hair Temporary, semi, permanent or bleach
As above
Skin tone Use shades to complement
The skin tone
As above
Explain the effects temperature has on colouring and lightening products.
Application.
No affect.
Development.
Gentle heat can speed up the process.
1+1
1+2
1+3
Explain how to dilute liquid peroxide in order to make different strengths of solution
Dilute with water
Why must we restore the PH balance of the hair after colouring
To close the cuticle and to counteract the oxidisation process
When we remove products from developing areas of the hair why is it important not to disturb areas still
processing Rinsing may cause seepage, it may weaken
product and give an uneven result
Explain why we must make sure we remove all of colouring and lightening
products from the scalp
Staining of the scalp, may affect condition of the hair, bleach left on hair could continue to process and to avoid scalp irritation.
Complete the following grid stating why and how the contra-indications can affect the delivery of colouring and
lightening services
Contra- indication Why HowSkin sensitivity Limits choice of product
and techniqueAggravate condition
History of previous reaction to colouring products
Limits the services that ca be offered
Allergic reaction
Other known allergies Must be taken into account
May aggravate condition
Skin disorders May limit the services that can be offered
May make condition worse
Incompatible products Limits services that can be offered
Wrong service may cause heat damage to the hair, discolouration
Medical advise Must be taken into account
May aggravate condition
List different types of colouring and lightening products available.
• Temporary
• Semi-permanent
• Quasi
• Permanent
• Hi-lift
• bleaches
When and how should conditioners be used when colouring and lightening
• Before: to even out porosity
• After: to close cuticle
• Follow manufactures instructions
When would you use various bleaches available
.Bleach When to use
Powder Highlights with cap & foils.
Cream Full head, Block, cap & foils.
skin stainingsloppy application, not being removed on completion of application.
Deterioration of hair conditionwrong test results or not taken,wrong choice of product, wrong
choice of hydrogen peroxide, Processing time incorrect.
Product seepagewrong choice of product for application technique, poor application
of product
During the colouring and lightening process, state a cause for each of the following problems
Complete the following grid indicating ways to solve these simple colouring and lightening problems that may occur during processing
problem Means of resolving it
Colour not good on white hair Hair may be resistant-
Pre soften
Colour uneven Spot tint light areas
Colour to light Use darker shade
Check hydrogen peroxide strength
Scalp irratation Wash hair thoroughly to make sure no tint present.
Advise to check with doctor
What are the potential dangers of using lightening products on previously chemically treated hair?
• Damage to the hair, poor condition, poor porosity.