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How many is too many? Doug Whi2aker Confluence Research and Consul<ng Se>ng capaci<es and alloca<ng mountain use

Doug Whittaker – Capacity on summits

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Page 1: Doug Whittaker – Capacity on summits

How  many  is  too  many?  

Doug  Whi2aker  Confluence  Research  and  Consul<ng    

 Se>ng    capaci<es    

and    alloca<ng          

mountain  use  

Page 2: Doug Whittaker – Capacity on summits

Middle Teton, Wyoming

Page 3: Doug Whittaker – Capacity on summits

Annapurna Sanctuary, Nepal

Page 4: Doug Whittaker – Capacity on summits

Similarities

McCloud River, CA

Page 5: Doug Whittaker – Capacity on summits

First ascents / descents

Grand Canyon of the Stikine

Page 6: Doug Whittaker – Capacity on summits

Skill, gear, and gumption…

Delta River, Alaska

Judgment

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From…chris-­‐nagel.blogspot.com  

Hance  Rapid  

Sockdolager  Rapid  

Mineral  Canyon    

Hance  Camp    Papago  Camp    

Grapevine  Camp  

Routes

Page 8: Doug Whittaker – Capacity on summits

Wassons’s Hole, Grand Canyon of the Stikine

Risk at crux locations

Khumbu Ice Fall

Page 9: Doug Whittaker – Capacity on summits

Support

Kahiltna Glacier, Denali

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Commercialization

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Quality  of  experience  

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Mo<va<ons  and    psychological  outcomes  

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Use is a variable

Page 14: Doug Whittaker – Capacity on summits

Tourism-recreation lifecycle

Discovery and exploration

Emergence

Consolidation (Commercial)

Choices: Saturation/decline Managed stability & rejuvenation

Adapted from Butler, 1980

Time

Num

ber o

f peo

ple

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Lower Kern, California

What kind of place do you want this to be?

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images.summitpost.org/original/320167.jpg  

A  brief  tour  of  capacity  concepts    

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Origins

Page 18: Doug Whittaker – Capacity on summits

Facility capacities

Zermatt tram 60 people

Middle Fork Lodge 24 rooms/cabins

Copperfield Campground 62 RV + 10 tent sites 2 vehicles per site 6 people per site

Old Faithful Inn dining room 260 people at one time

Magic Kingdom parking 25,000 vehicles 75,000 people

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Ecological capacities

McNeil River, Alaska

Page 20: Doug Whittaker – Capacity on summits

Selway River, Idaho

Social capacities

Page 21: Doug Whittaker – Capacity on summits

•  Determined through a process •  Technical & evaluative information •  Not a “magic number”

Developing capacities

Page 22: Doug Whittaker – Capacity on summits

Similarities > differences

Planning frameworks

Page 23: Doug Whittaker – Capacity on summits

Main Salmon River, Idaho

Principles

•  Any use creates some impact •  Impact not necessarily “damage” •  Identify important conditions (indicators) •  Evaluations (standards) define “unacceptable”

Page 24: Doug Whittaker – Capacity on summits

Capacities require value judgments

Middle Fork Salmon, Idaho

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What do you need to know?

Use-condition relationships Acceptability of conditions

“Other” management actions

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y  =  0.471(x)    -­‐  287  R²  =  0.24  

0  

1000  

2000  

3000  

4000  

5000  

6000  

0   1000   2000   3000   4000   5000   6000   7000   8000  

Valley  Inbound  Vehicles  

People  on  trail  Vernal  Falls  

Preference    

Acceptable    

Mgmt.  ac<on    

Yosemite Valley use vs. Vernal Falls trail densities

Page 27: Doug Whittaker – Capacity on summits

Evaluating use

Page 28: Doug Whittaker – Capacity on summits

Acceptability of boat densities

3.31  

2.15  

-­‐0.70  

-­‐2.28  

-­‐4  

-­‐3  

-­‐2  

-­‐1  

0  

1  

2  

3  

4  

0   2   4   6   8   10   12   14   16   18   20   22   24   26  

Una

ccep

table  

Number  of  boats  in  photos  

Acceptab

le  

Page 29: Doug Whittaker – Capacity on summits

Carry out human waste systems

“Other actions” Educate & regulate

Dishwater and hygiene

Stoves only; tarp under table

Change type or behavior of users, not amount of use

Fire pans

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Stoneman Meadow, Yosemite Valley Fragmentation Index from 40% to 99%...

despite use increase over 50%

“Other actions” Harden/direct use to less sensitive areas

Page 31: Doug Whittaker – Capacity on summits

“Other actions” Infrastructure and facilities to handle sheer volume of use

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Direct limits

Middle Fork Salmon River, Idaho

Campsite assignments

Launch limit

Page 33: Doug Whittaker – Capacity on summits

Kenai and Russian River Confluence, Alaska

Indirect management

Facilities to direct / constrain use

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Registration à re-distribution

Deschutes River, Oregon

Page 35: Doug Whittaker – Capacity on summits

Public support for use limits Several Alaska rivers

10%

11%

20%

22%

34%

39%

39%

40%

52%

60%

90%

89%

81%

79%

66%

62%

61%

60%

48%

40%

Talachulitna floaters

Lake Creek floaters

Little Susitna floaters

Deshka floaters

Kenai users

Talkeetna floaters

Gulkana floaters

Little Susitna powerboaters

Deshka powerboaters

Gulkana powerboaters

0% 20% 40% 60% 80% 100% Never

0% 20% 40% 60% 80% 100% Maybe or yes

No Maybe Yes

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How big is the pie? Who gets the pieces?

Capacity vs. allocation

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Allocation approaches Split vs. common pool

Page 38: Doug Whittaker – Capacity on summits

Allocation techniques

Pricing Lotteries Reservations Onsite queuing

Elves Chasm, Grand Canyon

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Complex policy choices •  Bids vs. historical use •  Monopolies and “selling” permits •  Details matter – winners and losers

Lees Ferry, Grand Canyon

Page 40: Doug Whittaker – Capacity on summits

Use limits on U.S. rivers

•  Full limits on 25 rivers •  Partial limits on 90+ rivers (usually commercial only) •  Higher use rivers: 300-1,000 people, 25+ groups, 300+ boats per day •  Lower use rivers: 0.5 to 8 groups per day

Grand Canyon

Page 41: Doug Whittaker – Capacity on summits

images.summitpost.org/original/320167.jpg  

A  brief  tour  of  mountain  capaci<es  

Page 42: Doug Whittaker – Capacity on summits

Mount  Whitney  

•  ~250  per  day  total  •  1,000  before  limits  •  60  overnight,  100  day,  100  other  •  Small  separate  commercial  sector  •  February  lo2ery  •  24,000  people  per  year  •  Pioneer  carry-­‐out  waste  regs  

Page 43: Doug Whittaker – Capacity on summits

Half  Dome  

300  per  day;  75  overnight  &  225  day  As  many  as  1,200  per  day  before  limits  

Weekend/weekday  experiment  “Free  flow”  <  30  PAOT  on  cables  

Social  evalua<on  study    

Page 44: Doug Whittaker – Capacity on summits

Denali    

1,500  people  per  year  ~400  to  500  AOT  

Distributed  commercial  use    Higher  fee  controversy  Clean  Mountain  Cans  

Page 45: Doug Whittaker – Capacity on summits

mountrainiercondi<ons.blogspot.com  

Camping  zone  permits  110  at  Camp  Muir  (largest)  200+  summit  on  peak  days  

2,000à  10,000  per  year  (1970  to  2013)      57%  private,  43%  commercial  

3  ouki2ers  (one  larger)  48  commercial  clients  per  night  

Single  trip  guide  CUAs  

Mount Rainier

Page 46: Doug Whittaker – Capacity on summits

Longs  Peak  

Camping  limits  (18  sites  in  4  areas)  Separate  climbing  bivy  rules  

No  day  use  limits    Unknown  total  use  But  some  days  500+  

No  carry  out  waste  –  toilets    Day  use  parking  problems  

Page 47: Doug Whittaker – Capacity on summits

h2p://www.summitpost.org/users/yem/39021  

Mount  Hood  

Overnight  permits  No  day  use  limits  

9,000  per  year  4x  increase  since  1990  25  to  50  SARs  /  year  

Lower  commercial  use  

Page 48: Doug Whittaker – Capacity on summits

Grand Teton

Camping zone limits No day limits

Group size limit (6) Limits on some routes Two guide companies

Carry-out waste

Page 49: Doug Whittaker – Capacity on summits

Mount Shasta

•  No quotas •  200+ on peak days •  15,000 people per summer •  $ 20 “Summit Pass” •  Pack out waste

Page 50: Doug Whittaker – Capacity on summits

Ma2erhorn  

Hut-­‐based  limits  (170/night)  “Circus  of  ar<ficial  protec<on”    Guides  are  managed…rela<vely  clean  safety  record  500+  deaths  by  unguided  

Page 51: Doug Whittaker – Capacity on summits

h>p://www.summitpost.org/ar-­‐te-­‐des-­‐cosmiques/155970  

Mont  Blanc  

•  3  big  huts  (72+120+120=312)  •  Smaller  huts  Italian  side  •  200+  per  day  in  summer  •  30,000  per  year  •  Camping  ban  controversy    

Page 52: Doug Whittaker – Capacity on summits

Aconcagua

No limits Fees: 300, 500, 700 by season

Extensive guide/support use Defined base camps

Numbered waste bags

Page 53: Doug Whittaker – Capacity on summits

Vinson Antarctica

Self-imposed commercial limits (200 / per year) Enormous logistics and costs Pack in, pack out at a fine level Complex national and treaty authorities

Page 54: Doug Whittaker – Capacity on summits

Kilamanjaro

Guides  required  –  reserva<ons    40,000  to  60,000  people  per  year  

6  routes,  variable  use  levels  Camp  crowding:  300+  climbers  and  900  staff  

59  outhouses  

Page 55: Doug Whittaker – Capacity on summits

190,000  per  summer  No  fees  in  2011  –  officals  backed  down  16  huts  up  hihg  Toilets  and  refreshments    issue  is  ffees,  not  limits      Before  dawn,  the  summit  is  so  crammed  with  

hikers  waiNng  for  the  fabled  view  of  sunrise  that  if  even  one  person  in  the  crowd  took  a  tumble,  a  large  number  of  people  might  fall.  

Mount  Fuji  

Jessica…Aug  2013  h2p://waysofwanderers.com/climbing-­‐mount-­‐fuji-­‐story/  

•  10,000  per  day    •  300,000  per  year  

•  De  facto  hut  capaci<es  •  Extensive  facili<es  and  waste  mgmt.  

Page 56: Doug Whittaker – Capacity on summits

Mount  Everest  

•  High  fees  •  600+  climbers  AOT  •  Crowding  at  bo2lenecks  •  Narrow  weather  window  •  Skill  level  of  commercial  climbers  •  Protec<on  and  oxygen  use  •  Media  and  public  a2en<on  

©  2012  Ralf  Dujmovits  

Page 57: Doug Whittaker – Capacity on summits

h2p://exploreofanaverage.blogspot.com/2012/11/trekking-­‐to-­‐poon-­‐hill-­‐volume-­‐3.html  

Ghorepani,  Nepal  Not  just  climbers  

1,000+  trekkers  sunrise  trudge  Bo2lenecks  Human  waste  Ru2ed  trails  

Page 58: Doug Whittaker – Capacity on summits

images.summitpost.org/original/320167.jpg  

Thoughts  on  mountain  capaci<es  

Page 59: Doug Whittaker – Capacity on summits

Relentless  use  increases?  Changing  propor<on  of  commercial  use?  

From  Westhoff  &  Koepsell,  2012  based  on  Elizabeth  Hawley’s  Himalayan  Database  

Page 60: Doug Whittaker – Capacity on summits

Bibek  Bhandari  Bibekjournal.Wordpress.com/2010  

Impacts aren’t going away… Some are related to use

Page 61: Doug Whittaker – Capacity on summits

Need a process

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Earlier  is  be2er  

First  ascent  of  the  Ma0erhorn  by  Gustave  Doré  

Page 63: Doug Whittaker – Capacity on summits

Denali  –  NPS  Photo  

Focus  on  important  indicators  

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h2p://www.peakpromo<onnepal.com/wms/everest_expedi<on/images/Traffic-­‐jam-­‐at-­‐Hillary-­‐step.jpg  

Limi<ng  factors  

Page 65: Doug Whittaker – Capacity on summits

Weather,  risk,  and    “trips  in  trouble”  

Page 66: Doug Whittaker – Capacity on summits

Climbing  aids  confound  

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Social  impacts?      

NPS  Photo  

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Half  Dome  Study  

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David  Weinstein  Na<onal  Geographic  Adventure  Blog  2014  

Over-reliance on overnight capacities?

Page 70: Doug Whittaker – Capacity on summits

NPS  Photo  

Overreliance  on  educa<on?  

Page 71: Doug Whittaker – Capacity on summits

Freedom  vs.  regula<on  

Page 72: Doug Whittaker – Capacity on summits

Case by case

Page 73: Doug Whittaker – Capacity on summits

Ques<ons,  comments,  and  contact    

 [email protected]  

907.346.3769