The Musical Influence on Fashion and Design

of Clothing over the 20th Century

Killian Vigna

(Digital Media Design

10129758)

Industrial Design

ID4812

Contents

1.Introduction

2. 1920's – 1935's Jazz scene.

3. 1950's Rock &Roll

4. Late 1960's Glam Rock

5. 1970's – 1990's Hip Hop

6. Late 1970's Early 80's Punk Rock

7. 1980's Metal

Introduction

For my assignment on how design has changed over the 20th century, I have decide upon talking

about one of the biggest factors of clothing fashion over the past 100 years. Musical influence on

clothing design has to be one of the most important, and obvious influences in the world. The

clothing which one wears tells us the kinds of music genre they are into, before we even engage

contact with them, from such styles as wreck less and bright Punk rock hairstyles with tattered

clothing, to baggy, big brand hip hop clothing, and the tight white t-shirt and jeans layered with a

leather jacket Rock & Roll enthusiasts. Not everyone dresses the same now with so many options

and musical genres available in the 21st century, but by carefully examining one's clothing, we can

gain an insight into their livelihoods, personalities, and tastes in music. Here I have donned a list of

the most popular musical influences ranging from the 1920's to the 1980's/90's discussing

influences based on Jazz, Rock & Roll, Glam Rock, Hip Hop, Punk, and Metal listing the brief

backgrounds of the scene, and what designs you might see an enthusiast of the time wearing.

1920's – 1935's Jazz scene.

Jazz music was originally formed in the early 1900's in and around Northern American cities such

as New Orleans, Chicago, and New York, before hitting the big time in the 1920's, or what was

known as, the “Harlem Renaissance”. The Harlem Renaissance was a time of divide between race,

where the white community was becoming more and more over flourished by the majority of

businesses being run by black people, but still believed the black community should only be made

able as entertainers, and with this was the “peoples music”, an expression of mixed genres such as

blues and ragtime made common by the black community.

The 1920's “was a decade of elegance, a time of prohibition and violence, a time of spirit and

creativity” where fashion consisted of business suits and dresses, showing wealth through the

increases in businesses set up. There was a shift in suit design for men due to the Jazz fashion

scene, men were moving from the thin cut “fitted” elegance styles, to a more “loose” Jazz

influenced free swinging “zoot suit” which became a regular site on the dance floor of jazz clubs.

For the women, the 1920's saw drastic changes, it was an era of relief, freeing themselves from the

shackles of chest crushing corsets and Victorian dresses, to more free flowing, Art Deco inspired

clothing. Two of the biggest names in women’s dress designs of the 1920's were Coco Chanel and

Paul Poiret whose “new designs showed the influence of "Orientalism", a new movement that

moved away from the ornate and stifling dresses of the previous century” with the use of less

restrictive and more revealing clothing.

(juliannefshsourcebook.blogspot.com, 2009)

(victoriablack4.wordpress.com, 2011)

1950's Rock & Roll

1950's Rock and Roll brought out the first stages of youth rebellion through music. It was “A form

of popular music arising from and incorporating a variety of musical styles, especially rhythm and

blues, country music, and gospel” with the use of electric guitars and strong drum beats for

emphasis. It was a 1950's teenagers way of breaking free from their previous post war routines,

consisting of males signing up for the army, and young girls having no choice but to marry off and

pursue her duties as a housewife and mother. As money began to increase in America, teenagers

were becoming more and more interested in music, and as white teens had the money due to the

economic boom, and black teens had passion and rhythm for music that “White and black teens

were now opting for more interesting music played by "cool" black cats” the result being Rock and

Roll, a fast paced music scene where teenagers could finally go to dance halls and release high

energy dancing to escape their post war lives.

(www.gamesetwatch.com, 2009)

Fashion in the early 1950's consisted of, military styled slacks and blazers post war for males, and

long skirts, blouses and flat shoes for the girls. However, due to the rock and roll era, fashion had

become more rebellionised with the fact many teens were now working, and were looking for ways

to spend money they never had before, it was an era simply described like in the musical and film

“Grease” where rocker males (or “Cats” as referred to by the black community) were now wearing

“skinny” denim jeans, tight fitting (usually white) cropped sleeve t-shirts, long, slicked back greasy

hair, and more often than not, they were equipped with a leather jacket. The teen (“Kittens”) girls on

the other hand, had moved onto the desired Hollywood styles of the 50's, wearing “poodle skirts

and stiff full nylon petticoats or pencil skirts; fitted blouses and sweaters; bright eye-shadow and

lipstick; and bouffant hairstyles or ponytails” and now the added adaptation of the bra, to improve

body composition and posture.

(www.starpulse.com, 2008)

Late 1960's Glam Rock

Glam rock portrayed a whole new meaning of musically influenced fashion design. Also referred to

as “Shock Rock”, such bands as Kiss and Alice Copper stunned audiences with their extravagant on

stage costumes and performances,, consisting of heavy amounts of make up, vividly fluorescent

theatrical designed costumes (which were very camp like), and large platform heels, all which made

some believe to be portraying their homosexuality’s, even though very few actually emerged as

being bi-sexual, or homosexual, as instead, the“ makeup and shiny jumpsuits were meant to create

public notice and provide shock factor”. Glam rock according to its fans “Glitter Kids” explain

how its the fusion of transvestites and futurism.

(rokpool.com, 2010)

1970's – 1990's Hip Hop

Originally started in Jamaica, Hip Hop had spread to the Bronx in New York, where Disco Jockeys

(DJ's) would host parties where they would play the percussion beat from tracks, and have MC's

talk over them, before progressively turning into rapping,. Fans of hip hop believe it is more than

just rapping, it has become a way to express yourself, whether it be through rapping, graffiti

tagging, or even break-dancing, but like all things, as Hip Hop became bigger, and attracted more

audiences and media, by the 1980's it had become a major fashion trend, with fans kit out in baggy

urban wear (taking from the oversized prison uniforms in which most “gangsta” rappers were

accustomed). Due to the increase in money, image showed power and wealth as “big hip hop stars

wore lots of big gold chains, rings and jewellery. Hip hop fashion was all about large glasses

(Cazals), sneakers with oversized shoelaces (phat), Kangol hats, gold necklaces and jewellery”.

Although as the 1990's approaches, again the image of hip hop changes, with male hip hop stars

boasting gold jewellery, expensive suits, fast cars, big houses, beautiful women, and unlimited bails

of notes, and also the females had advanced from male clothing, to more glamorous and revealing,

low cut tops, high heals, oversized ear rings and other jewellery, and skimpy hot pants or skirts

buying from such brands as Jennifer Lopez JLO brand and hip hop's Nelly's Apple Bottoms brand.

(www.illestlyrics.com, 2010)

Late 1970's Early 80's Punk Rock

The first thing we imagine when we hear Punk Rock, is torn cloths, wild hair styles and mass

amounts of tattoos and piercings. Although this is true, firstly its best to learn where this form of

design came from. In 1970's UK and America there was mass amounts of economical

unemployment, resulting in large numbers of teenagers dropping out of schools, and turning against

the government. Punk expresses political and sociological anger and resent, rebelling against the

norm, their failed government, and the ever growing pop genre culture. Their way of showing they

didn’t want to be apart of this pop culture was by starting rough garage bands, most with very little

musical talents, resulting in a trashing about sound.

Punk Rockers lashed out at this new form of pop genre by purposely tearing up and butchering

clothes they had received from charity shops, showing a complete disrespect for the clothing that

most at the time would have believed should be treated with up most respect. The typical Punk

Rocker's aim's were to be as shocking and intimidating as possible at the time, with their designs

consisting of either brightly coloured pink or green long gelled up hair in shapes of spikes or

Mohawks, or by perceiving themselves as something to be feared by using a dark black hair dye ,

even, shaving parts of, if not, all of their hair off, which was both a male and female thing to do.

Another common feature was the over use of bodily tattoos and piercings, by having them placed

on visible parts of the face and body, defying the usual ear lobe piercings. Usually the dress sense of

Punk rockers would consist of leather bondage, or ripped apart jeans and sleeveless jackets (to

display their dirty arms and legs as a sign of the working class), pinned together by clothes clips or

chains, whilst the girls would wear layered mini skirts and arm sleeves. This was definitely the most

rebellious era of the 20th century, with not only teenagers defying the musical norms, but by going

out of their way to create a whole new dress sense consisting of the rise of Doc Martins, and the

beginnings of renowned designer Vivienne Westwood who had created most of the more

memorable Punk Rock designs.

(libcom.org, 2010)

(1.bp.blogspot.com, 2011)

(media.onsugar.com, 2010)

1980's Metal

Metal music is believed to have formed through the compilation of motor biking gangs such as the

"Hells Angels" and of Vikings and warriors of the past. Metal fans would be seen wearing big black

leather jackets, heavy boots, and black or blue jeans taken from the biker scene, and the trend of

donning long, thick greasy, and scruffy hair, with beards or moustaches as accustomed to from the

Viking sides of their designs. The idea of taking from the Viking and Saxon era was to show

masculinity, strength and power, resembling the fast paced, trashy sounds of heavy metal which

took the 80's by storm as such bands as Pantera, Metalica and Iron Maiden (which has become an

iconic act with their own design label worn by metal fans, and artists globally still to this day)

hitting the highlights at booze and regular occurrence’s of drug fuelled concerts. Most modern metal

fans regularly wear darkened clothing, and mainly black t-shirts with the slogans and logo's of

many top bands sold at just about every concert and music store around to this day. Jewellery has

also taken a major factor in metal fashion design, with bands wearing bullet belts, neck chains, large

finger length rings, and earrings, with the most popular earring choice being the hoop earring,

which is used by tribal communities in stretching the ear lobes to create gaps.

(www.metalsucks.net, 2010)

References

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Image references

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content/uploads/smith1.jpg [25th April 2011].

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