Fabric Structure and Design:Sateen/Satin Weaves

ByMd Vaseem Chavhan

Assistant ProfessorVIGNAN University

wasim.chavhan@yahoo.com

Sateen/Satin Weave

In pure sateen and satin weaves the surface of the cloth consists almost entirely of weft or warp float, as in the repeat of weave each thread of one series passes over all but one thread of the other series.

Concept: The characteristic of the sateen/satin weave is

that they have a smoothness and lustrous fabric surface.

Sateen weaves have a weft effect and satin weaves have a warp effect

• Parameters: R ≥5 and R≠6 1 S (R-1)﹤ ﹤ R and S must be expressed by prime numbers

R is Repeat and S is Shift

The sateen weave is denoted by a fraction. But the meaning is different from that of twill. The numerator of this fraction is equal to the repeat of weave. The denominator is equal to the shift (Sy) of overlaps.

Examples:

A ―Sateen 5/3 B ― sateen 7/3• And they are also called 5 ends(5 shafts) sateen and 7 ends

(7 shafts) sateen.

Figures A, B represent sateen 5/3 and 7/3.

Weave drawn:

Here is an example of 5/3 satin

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■■1. Drawing the outline according to the repeat, and giving the number of the threads.

2. Drawing the first end or pick. (Satin for first end, sateen for first pick).

3. Drawing the other ends or picks according to the shift

4. Weaving plan - Straight draft

Possible weaves for given repeat•There should not be common factor between R and S.•For example for R=10 possible S are 3 and 7 out of

2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9 as shown in figure

Applications: satin-back gabardine, doeskin cloth, satin-back crepe, satin drill,

light weight linings, slippers, bridal gowns

Development of Sateen and satin

Simple development

• In simple derivatives the new design is built up by using original satin or sateen as the base and subtracting or adding marks as required, in the same relative position to each base mark.

• By adding warp or weft float

• By adding design

• Addition of mark in Irregular manner

Extension of sateen weaves

• Horizontal or vertical extension

• Both way Horizontal and vertical extension

• Adding marks symmetrically with extension

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