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Effect of finishing on Knit Fabrics
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School of Science and Engineering, Department of Textile Engineering
Southeast University
Effect of finishing on Knit Fabrics
Effect of finishing on Knit Fabrics 1
School of Science and Engineering, Department of Textile Engineering
Southeast University
Introduction
Textile finishing is a term commonly applied to different processes that the textile materials undergo after pretreatments, dyeing or printing for final embellishments to enhance their attractiveness and sale apparels well as for comfort and usefulness.
Finishing process improves the physical properties of fabric like feel, softness, tensile strength, elongation, G.S.M, dia, shrinkage, spirality, twisting, and insulation properties.
Dhaka,15.05.2011 Effect of finishing on Knit Fabrics 2
School of Science and Engineering, Department of Textile Engineering
Southeast University
The techniques of finishing depend on the following:
• Nature of the fabric, i.e. chemical composition, state, weave, etc. This determines the appearance, i.e. transparences, luster, fullness, weight, whiteness, etc.
• The physical properties of the fabric, i.e. feel, softness, stiffness, tensile strength, elongation, shrinkage property, insulation etc.
• The end-use of the material i.e. non-shrinking, non-creasing, stiffening etc.
• Receptivity of the fabric to various finishing operations, i.e. water-proofing, flame-proofing, rot-proofing etc.
• Susceptibility to chemical modifications.
Dhaka,15.05.2011 Effect of finishing on Knit Fabrics 3
School of Science and Engineering, Department of Textile Engineering
Southeast University
Softness Lusture Pleasant handle Drape Dimensional stability Crease recovery Antistatic Non-slip Soil release
Finishing treatments are basically meant to give the textile material certain desirable properties like:
Dhaka,15.05.2011 Effect of finishing on Knit Fabrics 4
School of Science and Engineering, Department of Textile Engineering
Southeast University
Definition of Finishing
Finishing is a term usually employed for process other than scouring, bleaching, dyeing or printing, to which the fabric are subjected to improve their appearance, properties & serviceability.
Dhaka,15.05.2011 Effect of finishing on Knit Fabrics 5
School of Science and Engineering, Department of Textile Engineering
Southeast University
Classification of FinishesThe most common classifications are:
•Aesthetic finishes: •Functional finishesTextile finishes are also categorized as:
•Mechanical finishes (Dry finishes)•Chemical finishes (Wet finishes)
Dhaka,15.05.2011 Effect of finishing on Knit Fabrics 6
School of Science and Engineering, Department of Textile Engineering
Southeast University
Classification of Finishes
Finishes can also be classified by their degree of performance as follows:
• Permanent finishes• Durable finishes• Semi-durable finishes• Temporary finishes
Dhaka,15.05.2011 Effect of finishing on Knit Fabrics 7
School of Science and Engineering, Department of Textile Engineering
Southeast University
Controling parameter of finishing
Dhaka,15.05.2011 Effect of finishing on Knit Fabrics 8
• Dia of the fabric• GSM of the fabric• Shrinkage of the fabric• Weight loss or gain• Tension control• Temparature of different stage• Spirality control etc.• Color fastness of the fabric etc.
School of Science and Engineering, Department of Textile Engineering
Southeast University
Finishing process
Dhaka,15.05.2011 Effect of finishing on Knit Fabrics.
9
Unload fabric from Dyeing
Hydro extracting
Dryer/Stentering
Open compacting
Process of finishing for Open fabric
School of Science and Engineering, Department of Textile Engineering
Southeast University
Finishing process
Dhaka,15.05.2011 Effect of finishing on Knit Fabrics 10
Tube form fabric
Dewatering
Dryer for drying
Tube compacting
Slitting
Stentering
Open compacting
Process of finishing for Tube fabric
School of Science and Engineering, Department of Textile Engineering
Southeast University
Finishing terms
Dhaka,15.05.2011 Effect of finishing on Knit Fabrics 11
GSM:GSM means fabric weight in grams per square meter’s .
2
Fabric Weight In Grams
length In mGSM
School of Science and Engineering, Department of Textile Engineering
Southeast University
Shrinkage:The amount of shrinkage for any given knit fabric is primarily dependent upon the product specifications and the knitting parameters used to meet those specifications.Formula of shrinkage % measurement:
Dhaka,15.05.2011 12Effect of finishing on Knit Fabrics.
Finishing terms
Before Wash Length After Wash LengthLength Wise Shrinkage % 100
Before Wash Length
Before Wash Width After Wash WidthWidth Wise Shrinkage % 100
Before Wash Width
School of Science and Engineering, Department of Textile Engineering
Southeast University
Finishing terms
Spairality:
“Spirality” arises from twist stress in the constituent’s yarns of plain fabric, causing all loops to distort and throwing the fabric wales and courses into an angular relationship
Dhaka,15.05.2011 Color fastness of dye goods. 13
School of Science and Engineering, Department of Textile Engineering
Southeast University
Finishing terms
Color fastness:The stability of color or its fastness is one of the most important requirements of valuable customers. Colour fastness of dyed goods means the resistance power of dyed goods against any hazards.The color textiles show different resistance power to different agencies such as light, wash, rubbing, perspiration, water, bleach, acid, alkali etc.
Dhaka,15.05.2011 Effect of finishing on Knit Fabrics..
14
School of Science and Engineering, Department of Textile Engineering
Southeast University
Effect of Hydro and Dewatering
If water remove from fabric is very much percentage than fabric surface show crease mark, this fault can’t be remove.
If length wise run the fabric then 20% shrinkage occurs. If breakdown occur of de-twister than puckering occurs. If twist problem occur than it effect on knit garments. If do not take proper ballooning than folding mark occurs.
Dhaka,15.05.2011 Effect of finishing on Knit Fabrics..
15
School of Science and Engineering, Department of Textile Engineering
Southeast University
Effect of Hydro and Dewatering
If squeeze roller/padder pressure is high than fabric surface show pressure mark.
If over feed dia of delivery side is not perfect than length wise shrinkage occurs.
If dia increase than become poor shrinkage properties. Dia increase in this stage because it helps to better work for
dryer & slitting. Dia mark also occurs in this stage.
Dhaka,15.05.2011 Effect of finishing on Knit Fabrics.
16
School of Science and Engineering, Department of Textile Engineering
Southeast University
Effect of slitting
If dia is less than basket dia than fabrics do not cut and if dia is greater than basket than GSM problem occurs.
Cut the fabric break wales line wise. Basket dia must be less then fabric dia.
Dhaka,15.05.2011 Effect of finishing on Knit Fabrics.
17
School of Science and Engineering, Department of Textile Engineering
Southeast University
Effect of Stentering Over feed tension is very important for this stage. If over feed decrease than length increase. More over feed give in white fabric. If need light shade of the fabric than increase padder pressure. If need dark shade of the fabric than temperature increase 20˚C. For Lycra heat setting temperature need (190-200) ˚C. If half feeder Lycra fabric than increase speed and decrease temp. If full feeder Lycra fabric temp need 200˚C. Heat setting takes for width fixed of Lycra fabric.
Dhaka,15.05.2011 Effect of finishing on Knit Fabrics.
18
School of Science and Engineering, Department of Textile Engineering
Southeast University
Effect of CompactingMany textile manufacturers have, and still do, rely on compaction as a means of shrinkage control. Compaction is a method whereby the course loops are compressed upon themselves. Different machines incorporate a variety of techniques to accomplish this. There are basically two classifications of compaction: heated rolls and shoe units or belt shrinking units. Both methods rely on speed differential and their patented compaction zones to accomplish the compaction. Tubular and open-width systems are available. The fabric is steamed to add moisture and then introduced to the compacting zone. The compaction mechanism, along with heat and moisture, forces the length stitches (courses) to be compacted.
Dhaka,15.05.2011 Effect of finishing on Knit Fabrics.
19
School of Science and Engineering, Department of Textile Engineering
Southeast University
Results and discussion
Dhaka,15.05.2011 Effect of finishing on Knit Fabrics.
20
For finding the effect of finishing on knit fabric some experiment are done on different types of knit fabric.
School of Science and Engineering, Department of Textile Engineering
Southeast University
Compare the GSM change for Single jersey and single jersey lycra fabric
Dhaka,15.05.2011 Effect of finishing on Knit Fabrics..
21
Grey Dyeing Slitting Stentering Compacting155
160
165
170
175
180
185
190
195
200
GS
M
GSM variation Stages
GSM
Grey Heat setting Dyeing Slitting Stentering Compacting
116
118
120
122
124
126
128
130
132
134
136
GSM
School of Science and Engineering, Department of Textile Engineering
Southeast University
Compare the Variation of GSM for 1×1 rib fabric and Interlock fabric
Dhaka,15.05.2011 Effect of finishing on Knit Fabrics.
22
Grey Dyeing Slitting Stentering Compacting180
185
190
195
200
205
210
GSM
Grey Dyeing Slitting Stentering Compacting170
180
190
200
210
220
230
GSMChange
School of Science and Engineering, Department of Textile Engineering
Southeast University
Compare the variation of GSM for fleece fabric and Pique
Dhaka,15.05.2011 Effect of finishing on Knit Fabrics.
23
Grey Dyeing Slitting Stentering Compacting Brushing
200
205
210
215
220
225
230
235
GSM
Grey Dyeing Slitting Stentering Compacting
170
180
190
200
210
220
GSM
School of Science and Engineering, Department of Textile Engineering
Southeast University
Compare the shrinkage % change for Single jersey and single jersey lycra fabric
Dhaka,15.05.2011 Effect of finishing on Knit Fabrics.
24
Dyeing Slitting Stentering Compacting
-5
-4
-3
-2
-1
0
1
2
3
Shr
inka
ge%
width% length%
Dyeing Slitting Stentering Compacting-5
-4
-3
-2
-1
0
1
Width% Length%
School of Science and Engineering, Department of Textile Engineering
Southeast University
Compare the Variation Shrinkage % for 1×1 rib fabric and Interlock fabric
Dhaka,15.05.2011 Effect of finishing on Knit Fabrics.
25
Dyeing Slitting Stentering Compacting
-2.5
-2.0
-1.5
-1.0
-0.5
0.0
0.5
1.0
length% width%
Dyeing Slitting Stentering Compacting
-3
-2
-1
0
1
Length% Width%
School of Science and Engineering, Department of Textile Engineering
Southeast University
Compare the shrinkage % of fleece fabric and Pique
Dhaka,15.05.2011 Effect of finishing on Knit Fabrics.
26
Dyeing Slitting Stentering Compacting
-1.5
-1.0
-0.5
0.0
0.5
1.0
Length% Width%
Dyeing Slitting Stentering Compacting
-4
-3
-2
-1
0
1
2
3
length% width%
School of Science and Engineering, Department of Textile Engineering
Southeast University
Spirality % change for Single jersey and single Spirality % change for Single jersey and single jersey lycra fabricjersey lycra fabric
Dhaka,15.05.2011 Effect of finishing on Knit Fabrics.
27
Dyeing Slitting Stentering Compacting
0.5
1.0
1.5
2.0
2.5
3.0
Spirality%
Dyeing Slitting Stentering Compacting0.0
0.5
1.0
1.5
2.0
2.5
3.0
3.5
4.0
4.5
Spirality%
School of Science and Engineering, Department of Textile Engineering
Southeast University
Spirality % change for 1×1 rib fabric and Interlock fabric
Dhaka,15.05.2011 Effect of finishing on Knit Fabrics.
28
Dyeing Slitting Stentering Compacting0.0
0.5
1.0
1.5
2.0
2.5
Spirality%
Dyeing Slitting Stentering Compacting0.8
1.0
1.2
1.4
1.6
1.8
2.0
2.2
2.4
2.6
Spirality%
School of Science and Engineering, Department of Textile Engineering
Southeast University
Spirality % of fleece fabric and Pique
Dhaka,15.05.2011 Effect of finishing on Knit Fabrics 29
Dyeing Slitting Stentering Compacting
1.0
1.5
2.0
2.5
3.0
Spirality%
Dyeing Slitting Stentering Compacting
1.4
1.6
1.8
2.0
2.2
2.4
2.6
2.8
3.0
3.2
spirality%
School of Science and Engineering, Department of Textile Engineering
Southeast University
Discussion
Dhaka,15.05.2011 Effect of finishing on Knit Fabrics 30
School of Science and Engineering, Department of Textile Engineering
Southeast University
References
• http://www.thesmarttime.com• Books of Finishing ,By-Petro Bellini,Ferruccio Bonetti.• Lecture sheet of Dr. Zulhash Uddin • Experimental data from Paddma poly cotton knit fabrics
Ltd.
Dhaka,15.05.2011 Effect of finishing on Knit Fabrics 31
School of Science and Engineering, Department of Textile Engineering
Southeast University
Acknowledgement
We would like to express many thanks to our honorable teacher Md. Fazley Elahi for giving us a very good opportunity for presenting ourselves. We also thanks our parents who encouraged us every step of our life. Lastly thanks all of you who are give kind attention for this presentation ceremony
Dhaka,15.05.2011 Effect of finishing on Knit Fabrics 32
School of Science and Engineering, Department of Textile Engineering
Southeast University
33
Thank you ALL for your Attention
Dhaka,15.05.2011 Effect of finishing on Knit Fabrics
School of Science and Engineering, Department of Textile Engineering
Southeast University