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Derby Shoe Specification
Department of Leather Engineering, KUET, Khulna-9203.
Derby Shoe
Derby Shoe is characterized by shoelace eyelets tabs that are attached to the top of the vamp. a feature termed “open lacing". This contrasts with Oxford shoe which has shoelace eyelets tabs that are attached under the vamp. Originally, Derby shoes are plain, formal shoes, made of leather but they evolved into a range of styles suitable for both formal, uniform, and casual wear. Based on function and the dictates of fashion, Derby shoes are now made from a variety of materials, including calf leather, faux and genuine patent leather, suede, and canvas. They are normally black or brown, and may be plain or patterned.
S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET).
Historical Background
A Derby shoe (also called Gibson) is a style of Men's shoe characterized by quarters with shoelace eyelets that are sewn on top of the vamp. This construction method, also known as "open lacing", contrasts with that of the Oxfords.
In American English the Derby shoe may be referred to as a Blucher, although technically the Blucher is a different design of shoe where only eyelet tabs are sewn onto a single piece vamp.
In modern colloquial English, the Derby shoe may be referred to as "bucks," when the upper is made of buckskin.
S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET).
The Derby became a popular sporting and hunting boot in the 1850s. By the turn of the 20th century, the Derby had become appropriate for wear in town.
It is named after the 18th century Prussian general Gebhard Leberecht von Blücher. General von Blücher commissioned a boot with side pieces lapped over the front in an effort to provide his troops with improved footwear.
This design was adopted by armies across Europe.
Some English manufacturers seem to refer to this type of shoe as 'plain toe'.
S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET).
Basic Features of Derby Shoe
Laced up shoe with eyelets.
Quarter overlaps the vamp.
Characteristic “Derby Lock” stitching stay on quarters.
Vamp and tongue will be the same pattern.
Open Facing.
Quarter can be opened till half of the tread line.
A wide range of styles can be derived from this design.
Most widely used as formal shoe.
S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET).
Derby Shoe
Eyelet
Vamp
Toe cap
Quarter
Counter
Heel
OutsoleDerby Lock
LacingTongue
Top Line
Fig: Derby Shoe
S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET).
Quarter overlaps the vamp
Quarter overlaps the
vamp
Quarter
Vamp
Fig: Derby Shoe
S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET).
Derby Lock
Derby Lock
Fig: Derby Shoe
S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET).
Vamp and tongue will be the same pattern
Vamp and tongue will be the same
pattern
Fig: Derby Shoe
S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET).
Tongue
Vamp
Open Facing
Open Facing
Fig: Derby Shoe
S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET).
Open Facing and Close Facing
S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET).
Derby Shoe
S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET).
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S. M. Murshidur Rahman, Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET).
Presented by:S. M. Murshidur Rahman
Department of Leather Engineering,Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET), Khulna-9203,
Bangladesh.Email: [email protected]
https://www.facebook.com/murshidur.rahman.5203
