WET TESTING OF

TEXTILE MATERIALS

3/26/2015

Md.Azmeri Latif Beg

MSc. in Textile Engineering(DIU)

BSc. in Textile Engineering(CU)

At first I thanks to Allah who has created us. Then I give thanks to my honorable course instructor Ismat Zerin who teaches us

nicely. My special thanks also goes to lab instructor Md. Rafiqul Islam who learn us friendly.

Expnumber

Name of experiment

1 Color fastness to Perspiration.

2 Color fastness to Wash

3 Measuring shrinkage% to Wash

4 Color fastness to Rubbing

5 Dyeing of blended fabric with disperse and reactive dye (Hot brand).

6 Improvement of color fastness properties

Color fastness is one of the important factors in case of buyers

demand. The outstandingly important property of a dyed material is the fastness of the shade of color. Color fastness refers to the resistance of color to fade or bleed of a dyed or printed textile materials to various types of influences e.g. water, light, rubbing, washing, perspiration etc. to which they are normally exposed in textile manufacturing and in daily use. We have written a lot of articles on color fastness.

Standards of Color Fastness:

1. AATCC (American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists) technical

manual:

Describes 66 numbers of different color fastness tests.

2. SDC (Society of Dyers and Colorists):

In 1927, SDC (Europe) made fastness test committee.

3. ISO(International Organization for Standardization):

In 1947, ISO made color sub committee. ISO also grades the fastness:

For light fastness: 1~8

For other fastness: 1~5

Factors Affecting the Color Fastness Properties:

•The chemical nature of the fiber. For example, cellulosic fibers

dyed with reactive or vat dyes will show good fastness properties.

Protein fibers dyed with acid mordant and reactive dyes will

achieve good fastness properties and so on. That is to say

compatibility of dye with the fiber is very important.

•The molecular structure (e.g.) of a dye molecule: If the dye

molecule is larger in size, it will be tightly entrapped inside the

inter-polymer chain space of a fiber. Thus the fastness will be

better.

•The manner in which the dye is bonded to the fiber or the

physical form present.

•The amount of dye present in the fiber i.e. depth of shade. A deep

shade will be less fast than a pale or light shade.

•The presence of other chemicals in the material.

•The actual conditions prevailing during exposure.

Factors Affecting the Color Fastness Properties:

The textile color fastness is the capacity of a dyed textile to keep

its original aspect without loosing color when being wet, washed

or exposed to the light. It is one of the main issue of the textile

industry The fiber type used

The dye and the fiber used have to be compatible. A cellulosic fiber and a vat dye will

have a good resistance. And the polyesters provide a very good result with substantive

dyes.

The dye type

The way the dye is fixed on the fiber is a factor affecting the textile color fastness: the

bigger is the dye molecule the easier it will fix on the fiber. There are also insoluble dyes

in water so that the textile color fastness is improved when washing.

The tone

The color fastness depends on the dye quantity present on the fiber. A neutral or pastel

color is more resistant than a dark color.

Other chemical elements : the fiber finishing

The textile color fastness can be altered by different finishing used to improve the user

comfort.

A fastness is a place, such as a castle, which is considered safe because it is difficult to

reach or easy to defend against attack. This test is designed to determine the degree of

color which may be transferred from the surface of a colored fabric to a specify test cloth

for rubbing (which could be dry and Wet).

Experiment Name: - Color Fastness to

perspiration.Continuous contact with the human perspiration also affects the fastness of

some the dyed fabrics. In fact the perspiration is found to be either slightly

alkaline or acidic in nature. When fabric is subjected to this alkaline or acidic

perspiration continuously some times the tone and depth of the dyed shade

gets affected.

We can see how this change can be tested by artificially simulating the

perspiration condition.

PerspirationReagents required for Alkaline

perspiration

Reagents required for Acidic

perspiration

Histidine mono hydrochloride

monohydrate0.5 gram/litre 0.5 gram/litre

Sodium Chloride 0.5 gram/litre 0.5gram/litre

Disodium hydrogen

orthophosphate2.5 gram/litre --

Sodium dihydrogen

orthophosphate-- 2.2 gram/litre

0.1N Sodium hydroxide adjust pH to 8

0.1N Acetic acid -- pH 5.5

MLR 1:50

Dip the fabric in the above recipe

for 30 minutes at 30C; allow it dwell

for 14hours under 4.5 kg weight of

the perspirometer.

Dip the fabric in the above recipe for

30 minutes at 30C; allow it dwell for

14hours under 4.5 kg weight of the

perspirometer.

Experiment Name: - Color Fastness to

perspiration.

Recipe

Acid

Bath

Alkali

Bath

L-Histidine mono-hydrochloride mono-hydrate

(C6H9O2N3Hcl.H2O)

0.5g/L 0.5g/L

Disodium hydrogen orthophosphate

(Na2HPO4.2H2O)

2.2g/L 2.5g/L

Sodium chloride (Nacl) 5g/L 5g/L

Distilled water 1000mL 1000mL

PH 5.5 8

Temperature 37-380c 37-380c

Time 4 hours 4 hours

Before knowing about the Color Fastness to perspiration you must have to know about Color Fastness to Wash and Color Fastness to Rubbing.Measurement PrincipleThe garments a\which come into contact with the body where perspiration is heavy may suffer serious local discoloration. This test is intended to determine the resistance of color of dyed textile to the action of acidic and alkaline perspiration.Equipment For Fastness Measurement1. Perspiration tester 2. Oven, Maintained at 37+-2 Degree centigrade 3. Multifiber test fabric 4. Grey scale 5. Color matching chamber6. Acidic and Alkaline solution 7. Glass or Acrylic plat3e 8. Weight.

Sample size will be 10 CM * 4 CMTest Procedure1. Wet-o0ut the composite test sample in mentioned alkaline or acidic solution at room temperature. The Material ration will be 1:50 and leave for 30 minutes.2. Pour off excess solution and place the composite sample between two glass plate or acrylic plate under a pressure of 4.5 KG and place in a oven for 4 hours at 37+- and 2 degree centigrade temperature.3. Remove the specimen and hang to dry in warn air not exceeding 60 Degree centigrade.EvaluationEvaluation is done by Grey scale in a dyed color matching cabinet and rate from 1 to 5.

Description of Test Test result

Acid Alkali

Color change in shade 3 3

Staining to Acetate 4 3-4

Cotton 3 3

Polyamide 4 5

Polyester 4 5

Acrylic 4 4

Wool 3 3

Format for Reporting

Test method Temp 0C Time Steel balls Chemicals

ISO-1 40 30 min 0 Soap 5g/L

ISO-2 50 30 min 0 Soap 5g/L

ISO-3 60 30 min 0 Soap 5g/L

Soda ash 2g/L

ISO-4 95 30 min 10 Soap 5g/L

Soda ash 2g/L

ISO-5 95 4 hours 10 Soap 5g/L

Soda ash 2g/L

Recipe:Standard soap 5g/L

Soda ash 2g/L

Temp 950c

Time 30 min

No. of steel Ball 10

Sample size 10 cm ×4cm

Preparation of solution:

Standard soap 5g/L and soda ash 2g/L

to make a solution.

Description of test Test result

Color change in shade 2

Staining to Acetate 4

Cotton 1

Polyamide 2

Polyester 4

Acrylic 4

Wool 1

Test ReportExample of multifiber

Experiment Name: -Color fastness to rubbing

Test result grade

Dry 4/5

Wet 2/3

Interpretation of Grade:Gray scale rating is based on scale 1 to 5, where 5 is good and 1 is bad.Range of testing.

Apparatus:1. Crock meter2. Rubbing cloth Dry Wet3) Grey scale

Color fastness against rubbing /Crocking

In order to determine the color fastness of dyed or printed textiles or

leather, this test is used for the determination of color fastness

against rubbing, either under dry or under wet conditions.

Features of Crockmeter: 1.To determine the Color Fastness of Textiles.

2.The equipment consists of a counter.3.It is provided with a flat peg.

4.It also consists of an operating handle.5.Tests the color fastness of the textile in a very accurate manner.

6.It gives not only accurate but quick results also.

There are two test methods for rubbing fastness.

1.ISO-105-X12

2.AATCC-08

In ISO-105-X12 the wet pickup of the rubbing cloth is 100% .While in AATCC-

08 the wet Pickup of the rubbing cloth is 65%.We check rubbing by Dry and

Wet methods. In wet rubbing we wet the rubbing cloth according to test

method and give rating by comparing the Staining with the gray scale.

Similarly for dry rubbing we check the rubbing with dry rubbing cloth and

compare the staining With gray scale for ratings.Color Fastness to rubbing is a

main test which is always required for every colored fabric either it is Printed or

dyed.

If the color fastness to rubbing is good then its other properties like Washing

fastness and durability etc improves automatically because the rubbing is a

method to check the fixation of the color on the fabric. So if the fixation is good

its washing properties will be good.

Rubbing Fastness depends on:Nature of the Color

Depth of the Shade

Construction of the Fabric Nature of the color Each color either it is pigment

,Reactive ,Disperse or direct has its own fastness properties to rubbing. There

are some colors like black, Red ,Burgundy ,Navy blue which have poor Color

fastness properties because of their chemical structure.

Like Black color is a carbon base color and the particle size of carbon is large

than the other colors that's why its rubbing properties are poor. Similarly red

and blue are in the same case. So to improve the color fastness we add more

binder to improve the fastness properties of these colors. It doesn't mean that

we can not achieve the best results with these colors. The required results can

achieve but production cost will be increase. On the other hand the construction

of the fabric also effects the fastness properties.

If the rubbing fastness on 100.80/40.40 is 3 on the gray scale it will be 2-3 on

52.52/22.22 with the same printing parameters. So always keep in mind these

effects during finalize the required parameters with your customer .

Always Check

Quality construction

Color

Depth of the Color

End Use of the product

Specifications of Crockmeter:

Diameter of the Rubbing Finger : 16 mm & 25 mm

Load on the Finger : 9 N & 20 N

Size of Crocking Cloth : (5 x 5) Cms & (7 x7) cms

Length of the Traverse : 100 ±5 mm

Counter (Re-settable) : 4-Digit Counter

Size of Test Specimen : 25 x 5 Cm

Overall Dimension of the Unit : 600 (W) x 190 (D) x 200 (H) mm

Net Weight of the Unit : 4 Kg. (9 lbs.)

Construction : Cold-rolled steel

Working Principle of Crockmeter:

The crockmeter consists of a rigid flat metallic platform on which the test specimen can be held

firmly and a abrading finger which rubs against it under a specified load.

The platform is fixed over the base of the equipment and lies in a horizontal plane.

The test specimen is held firmly over an abrasive paper which is pasted on the upper face of the

platform, with the help of two pins holding it at both ends.

The abrading finger has a flat circular rubbing face which is covered with 4 piece of white

abradant fabric during the test.

The abradant fabrics picks up color lost by the test specimen during rubbing.

It is held over the finger with the help of a tapered ring.

Motion to the finger is given through a reciprocating arm with runs an two ball bearings to

minimize friction and to apply a uniform load on the finger.

The arm is moved by a manually operated crank and connecting lin The equipment is finished in

dark metallic paint and bright chrome plating to give it a corrosion resistant finish

Some time we may improve the light fastness properties by natural sunlight. If

we get the LF grade 2-3, then we make light fastness improvement by the

sample with the solution of 1% detergent washing to get sample light also

remove unfixed dyes. Then we dry it in the present of sunlight for 12-20 hours.

After this if we test LF may get 3-4 rating .it is only for sample improvement

which is already formed garments.

Improvement Fastnesses and Color Strength Of

Pigment Printed Textile Fabric by plasma treatment

Fastness of treated samples was also higher than untreated fabrics because of

improving bonding strength to the binder. At the same time, more color and dry rubbing

fastness can be obtained with high treatment power argon plasma treatment. Therefore,

we recommend proper argon or air plasma treatment to improve the functionality of

the textile fibers and also fabrics. We may improve of fastnesses and color strength of

pigment printed textile fabrics.

To improve fastness and color strength of the polyester fabrics, atmospheric plasma

treatment was used. Polyester fabric was treated with argon or air plasma at

atmospheric pressure, and plasma pretreatment effect on the pigment printing was

evaluated. A printing paste comprising synthetic thickener, binder, and pigment was

applied using a flat screen printing technique. The fabric was then dried and exposed to

heat. The cured prints were evaluated for color property, color fastness to

washing, and dry/wet rubbing. The effects of atmospheric plasma treatments were

evaluated by XPS, SEM and AFM. When the properties of atmospheric plasma treated

samples were compared to those of untreated sample, higher K/S values were obtained.

Also, the fastness of treated samples increased between ½ and 1 point.

Plasma treatments are ecologic, and can replace some finishing steps of textile

materials. Plasma is produced by accelerating a gas via an electric field. Gas atoms are

ionized, and free electrons are produced. Properties obtained with plasma are

dependent on plasma parameters such as gas, discharge power, pressure, and

electrical characteristics of the gas. Plasma is the physicochemical treatment, and

generally is used for changing surface properties of polymers or the other

materials without any marked change in the bulk structure of the materials, because

plasma only modifies outermost layers. During a plasma treatment, several concurrent

processes may occur at the plasma-polymer interface, depending on the chemical and

physical characteristics of the plasma itself. As is well known, plasma treatment has two

effects on the fiber surface. One is physical etching, which occurs when an inert gas,

such as argon, is used to modify the surface. The other is chemical graft, which occurs

when some polar radicals, such as oxygen and nitrogen, are induced to functionalize the

surfaces of fibers. Crosslinking of radical and excited surface species may also

contribute to the modification of the polymer surface structure.

Among the surface properties textile materials which can be improved with the use of

the plasma are wetability and quality of dyeing and printing .

To achieve sufficient dyestuff adhesion and thus a satisfactory printing result,

atmospheric plasma treatment has been applied to textile materials.

Recipe:

Standard soap 2g/L

M: L 1:50

Time 35 min

Temp 500c

35cm

Sample size:

Dimensional stability to wash:

Final (after wash) length-Original (before wash) ×100

Original (before wash) length

For warp=33-35/35×100

=-5.75

For weft=35.5-35/35×100

=1.42

Result:

Warp=-5.75 % shrinkage

Weft=+1.42% shrinkage

50 cm

50 cm

NAME OF THE EXPERIMENT: DYEING OF BLENDED

FABRIC (35×65) WITH DISPERSE DYE & REACTIVE DYE.

Recipe of polyester part:

Disperse dye (blue) ―3% (OWF)

Dispersing agent ―1.5 g/L

Carrier ―1 g/L

Acetic Acid ―0.5 g/L

M:L ―1:20

Time ―30 min

Temp ―900c

PH ―4.5-5.5

Calculation:-

Sample weight – 20 gm.

Total liquor =20×20=400cc

Amount of Dye (blue) =13×3/100=.39gm

Amount of dispersing agent=400×1.5/1000=0.27gm

Amount of carrier =400×1/1000=0.4gm

Amount of acetic acid -400×0.5/100=2cc

Amount of additional water=400-(0.4+0.2) =399.4cc

Addiwater

Steam onSamplePH checkAcetic acidCarrierDispersing

agent

Drain

Reduction cleaning

Cold wash

De watering

Drying

Dyeing curve 1300c×30 min

Recipe of Cotton part:

Reactive dye (Blue) ―3%

Leveling agent ―1g/L

Common salt ―70g/L

Soda ash ―18g/L

M:L ―1:20

Time ―60 min

Temp ―900c

PH ―9-11

Additionalwater

Leveling agent

Dye Sample Salt Soda PH check Steam on

900c×60 min

Drain

Hot wash

Cold wash

De watering

Drying

Dyeing curve

Calculation:

Sample weight=20gm

Total liquor=20×20=400cc

Amount of dye=7×3/100=0.21gm

Amount of leveling agent=400×1/1000=0.4gm

Amount of salt=400×70/1000=28gm

Amount of soda ash=400×8/1000=3.2gm

Amount of additional water=400-0.4=399.6cc

EXPERIMENT NAME: -FIBER COMPOSITION.

Acrylic fiber is dissolved D.M.F in 5 min boil.

Polyester fabric is dissolved phenol in 5 min boil.

Cotton fabric is dissolved 75% H2SO4 with 20 boil at

room temp.

Wool fabric is dissolved 5% NaOH with 10 min boil.

Nylon fabric is dissolved HCl with 10 min boil at

room temperature.

After weight-Before weight /before

weight×100

70-200/200×100

=-65 polyester

=35 cotton.