Trims and Accessories

Advanced Apparel Manufacturing AZMIR LATIF, MSc.Engr (Textile)

Question: What are the differences between Trims and Accessories? Give me example of 5

trims and 5 accessories.

Trims and Accessories

Trims and accessories are those materials that are used in a garment other than main fabric

(shell fabric). Even lining materials (fabrics) fall under trims and accessories.

At first, when we read or heard these two terms, it seems that trims and accessories may refer

to two different types/ kinds/ categories of materials. One term may be used as functional

components and others term is used for non-functional and decorative purpose. But this is an

assumption.

I referred a book (Apparel Manufacturing by Glock and Kunz) and found following

definitions

Accessories: Item that enhances the aesthetic appeal or function of a garment including belt,

scarves or other objects. In generally these components are sewing less. Type of Accessories

Accessories that are carried (Small pets, toy dog, cats, birds, snakes, taking parrots)

Accessories that are worn,(Necklace, Umbrella, Bag, Parts etc.)

Trims: Materials used to ornament or enhance garments. These components are attach in the

garment by sewing. (Button, Zipper, Sewing thread, Lace, tape etc.)

Above definitions are fine when those are used as individual form. What happened when

these terms used as “trims and accessories” in garment manufacturing industry?

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To know actual meaning and difference between these two terms I picked few production

files from a factory. I have gone through documents such as,

Garment techpack/ specification sheet that was made by merchants and designers from

buyer end,

Bill of materials made by factory merchants using well known ERP system

Accessory approval sheets and Trim cards made by factory merchants,

Accessory received notes made by stores

I found both terms in those documents. Where one document used the term “trims” the other

one used “accessories” and both mean the same list of materials. Some document use these

terms as "Trims/ Accessories". Based on this study, I would say there is no difference

between trims and accessories, when these terms are used in garment manufacturing.

Still if you know something different and want to share your thought or different views with

us please drop your comments. Use following comment box post your feedback.

Example of Trims and Accessories

As we have come to know that there is no such difference between trims and accessories, I

am listing 10 trims/accessories for example.

1. Sewing thread

2. Buttons

3. Zippers

4. Lace/tape

5. Labels

6. Rivets

7. Lining fabrics

8. fusing material

9. Elastic

10. Crochet

Trimmings

Trimmings :The material component except main fabric which are used in the garments are

called trimming or accessories .Besides fabric various additional things are use for making

garments .Fore the example sewing thread ,button, etc.


There are two types of trimming .They are

(a)visible trimming&

(b) invisible trimming

Visible trimming can be seen from outside of the garments .For example: interlining.

Some trimming used for functional purpose which is used for decorative purpose.

List of trimming used in shirt, jackets and trousers:

1. Label 2.Motif 3.Button 4.Swing thread 5.Interling 5.Zipper7.Hook &loop fastening

9.lignin 10.Sholder pad 11.Rivte 12.Lace,braid,&elastic 13.Collar insert, butter fly, plastic

clip ,buckle , pin, poly bag. Bar code.

Button:

Buttons are hardware items used in junetion with buttonholes for the fastening of garments.

Purpose:

The purposes of using buttons are

A) Functional purpose:

This referee to buttons which are used to open and close garments with security.

B) Decorative purpose:

These are buttons which are used purely for decorative purpose .for example, Sleeve vents.

Types of buttons:

Buttons can be classified in various types, some are mentioned below.

1 According to line no .There are various types of buttons. Ligne is the measuring unit of

button diameter .To maser the outer diameter of button we use ligne no

1 ligne = 0.025‟‟ or 0.0635 mm

The button sizes are

a16 L b.18L c.24L

d.12L e.28L f .32L g.36L

In shirts mostly we use 16L button is also used .In button (B.D) shirts 12L button are use d.


In most common parts 24L button is used .Sometime times 26L snap button are also used.

To purchase button the GG is very important. 1 (Grand Gross) GG=12*12*12=1728 pieces.

1 Gross= (dozon*12)

2. According to the no of holes:

There are three types of button.

A) 2-hole button

B) 4-hole button

C) Special button (a) shank button (b) snap button (c) decorative button used in sleeve.

3According to material:

According to the manufacturing material there are the following types of button –

Plastic button:

This button are made of polyamide, polyester,polyacrylonitriteetc.they are cheap, not glossy

and widely used in shirt.

Metal button:

They are used in denim pants, trousers etc.

Wooden button:

They are used in decorative and functional purpose

Horn button:

They are made up of horns of animals used in shirt, pants. Artificial horns are also used

which are made up of nylon ,plastic and additives.

Chalk button:

It is used to make plastic glossy, used in shirt.

Printed button:

They are used only in decorative purpose.

Rivet:

Rivet is not used to open or close the opening the garments .They are used for the following

purpose.

a) Widely used for decorative and reinforcement purpose of denim or jeans garments.

b) It has two parts and requires an appropriate device to attach on garments.

Velcro:

This item consists of two woven polyamide tapes one covered with very fine hooks and the

other very fine loops .When pressed together they adhere securely to each other. This fastener


is used instead of zipper and button.

A Swiss inventor made this product and he offered the trade name „VELCRO‟ for it

„VELCRO‟ come,s form two France words „velour‟ and „crochet‟.

It is used in only a limited number of garments like shoes, belts ,sports were children

wear,madecal textile etc.

Zipper:

Zipper Construction:

A zipper consists of five Main Parts:

1. Chains 2. Slider 3. Tapes 4. Stops and 5. Pull.

This is one kind of trimming which is use open and close of special parts of garments.

Purpose:

Functional:

Functional purpose of zipper is as a part of a garment here zipper is used to open and close

the openings.

Decorative purpose:

Where zipper is used as a decorative purpose, it inches the beauty of germens.

Uses:

In making trousers and jackets , chain or zipper is in essential component which is used to

open or close of special parts of garment.


Types of zipper:

According to manufacturing material there are 3 types of zipper.

1. Metal zipper:

Metal zipper is used in trousers and shorts.

2. Polyester zipper:

Polyester or nylon zipper are used in jackets .It is made from a continuous filament paced

onto narrow fabric tape.

3. Plastic - molded zipper:

This types of zipper is used in pants.

Slider:

It is move up and down. Function of slider is to engage or disengage the teeth of opposite

sides of chain.

Slider mainly three types they are:-

1. Non –locking.

2. Semi-looking.

3. Full or auto locking.

Label: Label is an attached component of garment on which important information regarding the

garment are written or printed. No garment can be sold without some kind of label attached

to it .Specially in case of exporting label on a garnets is must .For example the size of

garment trade mark country of origin type of fiber etc, are written on label There are mainly

3 types of label .

1. Main label:

Main label contains brand name or trade name of buyer which is registered by the buyer .For

example Levis .Polo, lee etc.

2. Size label:

Indicate the size of garment I e L, M, XL, XXL or collar length of shirt 15,16,17,18 etc.

3. Care label:

It indicates the care instruction of the garment by some internationally recognized signs. It

shows the washing, drying, dry-cleaning, and ironing conditions of garments. The all other

labels are called sub –labels.

Motif: The special component which is attached outside of the garement for decorative purpose is

called motife.Company name ,trade mark or other symbols can be written on the motif.

Hangtags:


Hangtags are designed to draw attention to the garments and are hung on the side of the

garments and sometimes in front of button line so that the customers can see them easily

.Hangtags are printed paper tags hung from the garments by plastic staple or string. They

usually show the brand name, style no, etc. It is regarded as finishing accessories, not sewing

accessories.

Lining: Lining are generally a functional part of garment .They are used to maintain the shape of a

garment to the hang and comfort by allowing it to slide over other garment .Lining are are

available as knitted and woven fabric made from polyester .polyamide .acetate, viscose for

use where slippery material is required and from cotton, polyester cotton wool where

decoration and worm handle is required. Linings are joined to main garment by sewing and

for this purpose normal plain swing machines are used. Lining are widely used in jackets

coats overcoats pockets flaps children wear etc .Genaraleycheap fabrics are used as lining

material.

Interlining:

Interlining are used to support reinforce and control the shape of some areas of garments such

as collar, cuffs, waist bands ,facings and in front of corts .They may be sewn into the

garments or they may be attached by the fusing .Nowadays sewn interlining are hardly used

and usable interlinings are widely used.

Interlining is available in a wide variety of weights and constructions to mach the fabric of

garment. They can be woven non –woven product .Woven interlining are most commonly of

plain weave construction, whereas non-woven interlining are made directly from textile

fibers and are held together by mechanical ,chemical ,thermal or solvent means or

combination of these.

Swing interlining is made by swing .Some plies of fabrics together by swing densely then it

is joined with main garments by swing. Where fusible interlines have coating

of thermoplastic material on them and are joined to the garment by adhering them with the

help of pressure and heat. Fusible interlining give better result then that of sewn ones.

Shoulder pad: Shoulder pad is a standard item in tailored garments both for women and for men. Linings

are used on the top and bottom of shoulder pad.As a result the appearance become beautiful

,comfortable and lasts for long time.

Shoulder pads are for functional purpose and some times for decorative purpose.

Quality of trimmings:

Trimmings may be of textile materials or non-textile materials. They should be selected

carefully to get desired performance. The quality of trimmings are described below-

1. Lifetime:

The life time of garments and that of the trimming should be equal .Otherwise the trimming


will be faded or spoiled by washing, pressing, ironing, rubbing.

2. Shrinkage:

The appearance of the garment may be hampered if the accessories shrink due to ironing,

washing or pressing. Fore example seam pueker will be result in if the sewing thread shrinks.

So the shrink ability of the dress material and the trimming should be checked earlier.

3. Color fastness:

The fastness properties of accessories should be good. The color of trimming should not be

faded due to washing or exposure to sunlight. The appearance of garment will be hampered if

the trimming materials are faded.

4. Rust:

Where items are made from metal, the main construction is the problem of rusting. The

button, clamp, rivets etc may be made up the metals like iron, brass, steel etc .If rusting

occurs they will create spot on garment. So to avoid this problem the metal trimmings should

be electroplated or they should be made up of non-rusting materials.

5. Comfortability:

Trimming should not create any uncomfortable felling to the wearer .They should be

hygienic also as to cause no skin disease.

KNOW WHY USE ACCESSORIES & TRIMS IN THE GARMENTS

A supplementary part , object or the like, used mainly for functional convenience,

attractiveness ,safety etc.

Accessories /Trims types & using purpose:

1.Zip Fasteners: Functional accessories where long area need to cover

2.Metal Fasteners: Functional accessories where weight/fabric thickness high

3.Sewing thread: Functional accessories where stitching required

4.Reflective tape: Functional accessories when need to attract on darkness or low light

5. Cord and Pipings: Functional or sometimes decorative

6. Seam seal Tape: Special purpose work wear, safety wear etc.

7.Elastics: Functional accessories where flexible diameter is required.

8.Labels& Tags: Special purpose where need to mention some special instruction or Specific

logo on product


9.Interlinling: Special accessories where special shape is required to maintained

10.Bias Bindings: Special purpose is to make the clothing design & placed at the edge-

seamstresses and Tailors. It also used to bind and enclosed straight or curved area.

12.Hook& Loop: Functional accessories consists of two component Hook & Loop to make a

bonding closure

13.Buttons: Functional accessories. A disk like piece of solid material having holes or Shank

through which it is sewed to one side of an article of clothing and used to fasten.

DIFFERENT TYPE OF GARMENT STITCHES

Different type of Garment Stitches Are:

a) Lock stitch

b) Chain Stitch

c) 3 Thread Over lock

d) 4 Thread Over lock

e) 5 Thread overlock

f) Baby Lock

g) Foot stitch

h) Flat Lock

i) Box stitch

j) Stab Stitch

k) Bar Tack

l) Zig-Zag


GARMENT ACCESSORIES/TRIMS NAME, USE & APPEARANCE IMAGE (PART 5)

A) Strap Fastener

B) Bias Bindings

C) Label(Printed & Woven) &Tag (Cardboard)

D) 2 hole Plastic button

E) 4 hole Plastic button

F) Interlining

G) Twill Tape

H) Heat Seal Tape(Use Work wear, Safety wear, police uniform)

http://garmentstech.com/different-type-of-garment-stitches/stitch/


GARMENT ACCESSORIES/TRIMS NAME & APPEARANCE IMAGE(PART 2)

A) Military Buckle

B) Plastic Buckles

C) Fame Buckle(Frame & Pin)

D) Brace Clip/Dungaree Clip

E) Claw

F) Popper Press Fastener

G) Metal Eyelet

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USE OF GARMENT EMBELLISHMENT & APPEARANCE IMAGE (Decorative

Item)

1) Crochet Flower

2) Crochet Flower

3) Crochet Fruit

4) Satin ribbon bow

5) Satin Ribbon

6) Embroidery ribbon

7) String

8) Variety of Badge

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Functional and Non-Functional (Mock) garment accessories, Drawstrings, Cords/Ties

(Children)

Below are applies to Children‟s clothing only.

Functional drawstring

Cord, chain, ribbon, string or tape of any textile or non-textile material

which passes through a channel, loop(s) or eyelet(s) or similar, has 2

loose hanging ends and is used to adjust the size of the opening, or part

of the garment or to fasten the garment itself.

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http://garmentstech.com/use-of-garment-embellishment-appearance-image-decorative-item/embellishment2/



Continuous drawstring

Cord, chain, ribbon, string or tape of any textile or non-textile material

which passes through a channel around the total circumference of a

garment, has no loose hanging ends and is used to adjust the size of the

opening. Two loose hanging ends cannot be knotted together to form a

continuous drawstring.

Non-functional (decorative) drawstring

Non-functional cord, chain, ribbon, string or tape of any textile or nontextile

material, of fixed length which has two loose hanging ends and is

used to simulate the use of a functional drawstring, but is not in fact a

drawstring and has no drawstring functionality and is not intended to be

used to adjust the size of the garment opening or fasten the garment

itself.

Functional Cord/Tie

Cord, chain, ribbon, string or tape of any textile or non-textile material,

which is attached to the outside of the garment and is used to adjust the

size of the opening, or part of the garment or to fasten the garment itself.

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Non-functional (decorative) cord/tie

Non-functional cord, chain, ribbon, string or tape of any textile or nontextile

material, of fixed length and not intended to be used to adjust the size of the garment opening

or fasten the garment itself.

Elastic Cord/Tie

Cords containing yarns of rubber or elastodiene or elastic polymer or similar, having high

extensibility & complete or near complete recovery.

Halter Neck Cord/Tie

Functional cord worn round the back of the neck holding the garment (for example dress,

blouse or bikini) together leaving the shoulder and back bare.

Loop

Cord or narrow strip of fabric curved in shape, which maybe fixed or adjustable in length,

where both ends are attached to the garment.

Sash

Drawstring, decorative or functional cord of textile material of not less than 3cm/1 ¼” in

width worn round the waist area of a garment and tied in a bow.

Functional and decorative loops

Fixed loops that protrude from the garment also have length restrictions and safety must

be considered when designing garments with either functional or decorative loops. The

loop length must be measured end to end, the end being the point at which the loop is

attached to the garment. The extension must be measured from the fabric surface to the centre

of the loop when it is extended to its maximum without distorting the fabric surface.

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Any loops must not be more than 7.5cm (3”) in total loop length.

Belt loops Belt loops can be used on garments designed for children 3 years and under. However, they

must be a maximum of 4cm (1½”) in length between bar tacks. Belt loops must be attached

so that they lie flat against the garment. This is to reduce the risk of entrapment.

Belt loops must be securely attached and reinforced with a bartack.

Back neck (locker) loops Back neck (locker) loops should be located in the centre back neck and positioned at the

inside of a garment only.

Hanger loops the use of hanger loops longer than 7.5cm (3”) in total circumference is not permitted for

children‟s clothing.

http://garmentstech.com/functional-and-decorative-loops/loop-length/

http://garmentstech.com/functional-and-decorative-loops/belt-loop/

http://garmentstech.com/functional-and-decorative-loops/back-neck-loop/

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Button loops Using of button loops – maximum circumference 7.5cm (3”) – is permitted for childrens

clothing. The length, however, should be restricted to the minimum required for fastening.

Brass Pin (Accessories)

Stopper Tag Pin (Accessories)

Strings Collar stay

Swivel hook

Recco Shoulder tape Eyelet

Education

Trims and Accessories