Textile Fiber & Yarn

Fiber : Kinds of Fiber :

1. Natural Fiber 2. Synthetic Fiber

�� Natural Fiber : 1. Vegetable Fiber 2. Animal Fiber

1. Vegetable Fiber: Cotton , Linen , Jut etc. 2. Animal Fiber: Wool, Silk etc.

�� Synthetic Fiber / Man Made Fiber: Viscose Rayon, Polyester, Nylon, Acrylic etc.

Cotton: Cotton staple is usually between 3/8 inch and 2-1/4 inch long. For making yarn , Cotton staple of less than ½ inch long is not for spinning into yarn. Long staple is High quality yarn. Short Staple is low quality yarn.

Cotton is Divided into 4 groups: 1. Sea Island Cotton ( Staple length – 2-1/4 inch , Country: Island ) 2. Pima Cotton (Staple Length-1-3/4 inch , Peru & Egyptian) 3. U.S. Cotton ( Staple Length-1-1/2 inch) 4. Asian Cotton ( Staple Length-1-1/8 inch, Country- Japan, China, Pakistan,

India)

Characteristics of Textile Fiber: 1. Cotton : Soft, Very absorbent, Shrinks when washed , easy to crease. 2. Ramie & Linen: Compared to cotton , not soft , Less absorbent, shrinks

when washed, but to a less extent, easy to crease.

3. Rayon: Compared to cotton, softer than cotton, equally absorbent, shrinks more than cotton , very easy to crease, has a luster like silk.

4. Polyester: Compared to cotton, not soft, not absorbent at all, does ton

shrink in normal wash , not easy to crease.

5. Wool: Compared to cotton, not very soft, not absorbent. The staple is slightly crimpy which can lead to a bulky effect when finally made into a fabric. It shrinks seriously when washed in hot water. Not easy to crease.

6. Nylon: Can be soft or firm dependent on the finish applied, not absorbent,

does not shrink when washed, not easy to crease, very strong.

7. Silk: Finer and softer than cotton , equally absorbent, shrinks more than cotton easy to crease , has a smooth surface with luster when it is made into fabric.

8. Acrylic: Not soft, not absorbent, does not shrink in normal wash. The staple is slightly crimpy which can make the final product, the fabric, bulky or beefy, not easy to crease.

Yarn: 1. Spun yarn

2. Filament Yarn

Ring Spun yarn : Spun yarn is spun by spindles it is called ring spun yarn. 20/2 – 20 count 2 ply 20/3 – 20 count 3 ply 60 / 4 – 60 count 4 ply Carded Yarn : Without combing produced the carded yarn . Such as: 3s, 40s , 60s etc. Combed yarn: Produced the yarn with combing process. Cost is high. Such as: 76s Rotor yarn : Produced the lower count yarn. Such as: 7s to 20s . Filament yarn: 70 Denier. OE yarn ( open end yarn) : OE yarn is spun by means by air current and not by spindles. Polyester Cotton Blended: In the trade , we call this blend, “TC”. TC stands for Tetron & Cotton. Tetoron is also Called Polyester. “ TC” Fabric usually means 65% Polyester, 35% cotton, but strictly speaking it means 51% or more of polyester with balance in cotton.

Other Blended:

Polyester-Wool Acrylic –Wool Polyester-Rayon Silk – cotton Rayon-cotton T-R-C (Polyester, rayon & cotton)

Popular Textile yarn Sizes:

Most Popular Sizes Less Popular sizes

Cotton

TC/CVC

Cotton

TC/CVC

6s

7s

8s

8s

10s

10s

12s

13s

14s

14s

16s

16s

17s

20s

20s

21s

21s

24s

24s

30s

30s

32s

32s

33s

40s

42s

45s

60s

60s

Flow chart of Carded Yarn: Blow Room ………………………………………….Lap Carding ………………………………… ……….Carded Sliver Pre comb Drawing Frame …………………….Drawing sliver /drawn sliver Post comb Drawing Frame …………………….Drawing sliver /drawn sliver Speed Frame / Simplex …………………………Roving Ring Frame ……………………………………..Yarn (ring bobbin) Winding ………………………………………. Cone or other Package Reeling………………………………………….Hank Bundling ……………………………………….Bundle Baling …………………………………………..Bale Yarn in Hank Form ……………………………..Finished Hank bale

Flow chart of Carded Yarn: Blow Room ………………………………………….Lap Carding ………………………………… ……….Carded Sliver

Pre comb Drawing Frame …………………….Drawing sliver /drawn sliver Lap former ……………………………………….Mini Lap Combing ………………………………………….Combed sliver Post comb Drawing Frame …………………….Drawing sliver /drawn sliver Speed Frame / Simplex …………………………Roving Ring Frame ……………………………………..Yarn (ring bobbin) Winding ………………………………………. Cone or other Package Reeling………………………………………….Hank Bundling ……………………………………….Bundle Baling …………………………………………..Bale Yarn in Hank Form ……………………………..Finished Hank bale

Price of Cotton & Cotton Mixed Yarn :

SL. Yarn Count Price $ /Lbs 01 100% Cotton (Carded) 2/20 “NE” 2.10/ Lbs

02 100% Cotton ( Combed with soft Quality)

2/20 “NE” 2.40/ Lbs

03 100% Cotton (Carded) 2/30, 2/32 “NE” 2.45/ Lbs

04 100% Cotton ( Combed) 2/30 “NE” 2.65/ Lbs



07 100% Cotton SLUB Yarn 2/32 “NE” 3.60/ Lbs

08 50% Cotton 50% Acrylic 2/20 “NE” 2.75/ Lbs




12 60% Cotton 40% Acrylic 2/16 ‘s 3.00/ Lbs

(Roving yarn )

13 60% Cotton 40% Acrylic (Roving yarn )

2/16 ‘s 3.10/ Lbs

14 60% Cotton 40% Acrylic 2/16 ‘s 2.90/ Lbs

15 80% Cotton 20% Wool 2/32 Nm Not Available

16 100% Cotton mélange 2/20 & 2/32 “NE” Not Available

Viscose Rayon:

SL. Yarn Count Price $ /Lbs 01 100% Viscose Rayon 2/30 “NM” 2.80 /Lbs

02 70% Viscose Rayon 30% Acrylic (Solid & mélange )

2/30 “NM” 3.60 / Lbs

Nylon / Spandex / Lacra :

Yarn Count Price $ /Lbs 01 Nylon / Spandex / Lacra 70% / 20% 4.60 /Lbs

02 100% Nylon / Polimaed 70 D/2 (Double) 3.70 /Lbs

03 100% Nylon / Polimaed 70 D/1 (Single) 3.90 /Lbs

Price Quotation of Knit Yarn

From: BF Textiles Ltd.

Dhaka , Bangladesh

Sub : Price Quotation for Knit Yarn.

Dear Sir, We would like to give very special offer for you, please give us the order so that we can arrange as per your requirement. Please find below the price.

SL/no Description of Yarn Price in US$

01 24/1-26/1 Carded 100% cotton auto cone Yarn Usterized and Electronically cleaned.

$3.55

02 28/1-30/1 Carded 100% cotton auto cone Yarn Usterized and Electronically cleaned.

$3.60

03 32/1 Carded 100% cotton auto cone Yarn Usterized and Electronically cleaned.

$3.70


$3.80


$3.90


$4.10

Offer Validity: This offer is valid up to: 01.01.2011 We hope, your honor would find our offer suitable and favor us with your valued order. Your kind Cooperation will be highly appreciated Thanking you. Senior Executive Business Development BF Textile Ltd. Cell: 01725-425906 Email: …………..

Measurement of Yarn Count: We have followed a different way to find out the count of the yarn. At first we unravel a considerable no yarn form the fabric. Then we measured the total length of the yarn and measured the weight of that no of yarn. From these weights, we find out the Count of the yarn. The equation we followed is as follow:

Count = (N x L x 453.6 ) / ( Wt. x 36 x 840) Where, N = number of yarn in bundle L = length of yarn Wt. = weight of yarn.

Another formula is the following :

GSM = (Ks x Tex ) / Stitch length (mm ) Where, Ks is a constant. Its value is different for different fabric structure and fabric type. Ks is calculated and estimated as below:

Ks = ( GSM x Stitch length) / Tex

Fabric Type Color Value of Ks Single Jersey Average 19.55

Single lacoste Average 22.4

Double Lacoste Average 22.75

Polo pique Average 25

Plain Interlock Average 39.3

1 x 1 Rib Average 24.5



Flat back Rib - 81

3 Thread fleece - 40.92

Yarn count numbering system :

Yarn Count conversion Unit

Symbols Type Constant Unit

Cotton Count Ne, NeC, NeB

fixed weight 1 pound 840 yards

Tex TEX, T fixed length 1,000 meter 1 gram

Metric Count Nm fixed weight 1,000 gram 1,000 meter

Metric Ticket Tkt fixed weight 1,000 gram 333 meter

Denier Td, d fixed length 9,000 meter 1 gram

Linen Count NeL fixed weight 1 pound 300 yards

Wool Count NeW fixed weight 1 pound 256 yards

Silk Machine

Twist

fixed weight, A=900 yards, B=800 yards, F=300 yards, etc.

1 ounce 100 yards

Some Common Yarn Count.

List of some most used yarn count The following counts of yarn that are widely used for knitting process are given:

YARN COUNT:

a) Cotton: 20/1, 24/1, 26/1, 28/1, 30/1, 34/1, 40/1 Ne. b) Terylene cotton: 20/1, 24/1, 26/1, 28/1, 30/1 Ne. c) CVC: 26/1, 28/1, 30/1, 34/1 Ne. d) Melange: 20/1, 22/1, 26/1, 30/1 Ne. e) Spandex: 20D, 40D, 70D. f) Polyester: 75D, 150D. g) Sewing thread: 50/2, 40/2, 75D, 150D etc.

Basic knowledge of knit Fabric

1. Plain /Single/Jersey knit: People call it jersey knit . a weft knit process producing a plain , flat surfaced knitted fabric formed with a distinct face and back. Smooth side are called Face. Produced T-shirt, under-wear, sports wear etc by Single jersey fabric.

2. Interlock Fabric: A weft knit process producing a compound fabric. It is

less elasticity fabric. Actually it is Double faced knitted fabric which face &

Back side looks same and smooth. Produced Polo-Shirt , T-shirt , under-wear by Interlock fabric.

3. Rib Fabric: A weft knit process producing a double faced fabric. Distinct

effect looks at lengthwise and more elasticity in fabric width. Examples: 1x1 rib, 2x 1 rib, 2x 2 rib , 3x1 rib , 3 x 3 rib , 5 x 2 rib etc. Produced T-shirt, Polo-shirt by Rib fabric.

4. Fleece Fabric: One side looks like Jersey , the other side heavely brushed.

5. Flat knit: Flat knit is a weft knit fabric but do not produced tube fabric as

circular knitting. Produced the knit collar , Cuff etc.

6. Yarn Dyed fabric: At first , dyeing the yarn then produced the fabric by color yarn that is called yarn dyed fabric.

7. Piece dyed fabric: when produced the fabric by Natural color yarn that is

called Raw Fabric. For produced the Piece dyed fabric at first bleaching the raw fabric then dyeing .so that is called Piece dyed or Solid dyed fabric.

8. Feeder Stripe: More color yarns are used in the Feeder stripe but Repeat

size will be 2 inch.

9. Engineering stripe: More color yarns are used in the Feeder stripe but Repeat size are not fixed.

TC Fabric / PC Fabric Analysis:

Polyester Cotton

Warp (TC) = 65% 35 %

Weft 100% Cotton = 100% 0%

Total = 165% 35%

165% divided by 2 = 82.5% Polyester

35 divided by 2 = 17.5% cotton

Therefore, The fabric is TC 82.5% polyester , 17.5% cotton.

However , if you change the weft from 100% polyester to 100% cotton, then

this fabric is CVC. See following calculation:

Polyester Cotton

Warp (TC) = 65% 35 %

Weft 100% Cotton = 0% 100%

Total = 65% 135%

65% divided by 2 = 32.5% Polyester

135 divided by 2 = 67.5% cotton

Therefore, The fabric is CVC 32.5% polyester , 67.5% cotton.

Fabric , GSM, & Yarn Count

Fabric Name Weight /GSM Yarn Count Single Jersey 200-230 20s

Single Jersey 180-190 24s


Single Jersey 150/155-165 28s



Fabric Name Weight / GSM Yarn Count

Pique 235-240 24s

Pique 220-225 26s

Pique 190-210 28s

Pique 180-190 30s

Pique 160-170 32s


Interlock Fabric 260-270 30s






Rib Fabric 280-300 20s



Rib Fabric 200-210/215 28s




Fleece Fabric 310 26/20s




Fabric knitting cost

Sl.

No. Fabric Type

Machine

Gauge Yarn

Count Knitting charge

Per Kg in Taka

1 Single Jersey (M/C Dia 19-38) 24 20/s-30/s

10

2 Single Jersey (M/C Dia 40-48) 24 20/s-30/s

11

3 Single Jersey 28 26/s-30/s

13


14-16


16-25

6 Single Jersey Slub Yarn 24 15-20

7 Single Jersey Slub Yarn 20 18-20

8 S/J D/Yarn F/ Stripe(M/C Dia 18-40)

24

20-30


24

28-30


20

25-30


20

35-40

12 Heavy Jersey (2 ply) 20 40/2-26/2

15-18

13 Half Feeder Lycra S/Jersey 24 30/s-40/s

22-24

14 H.F.Lycra S/J Yarn Dyed Stripe (M/C Dia 18-40)

24

30-35

15 H.F.Lycra S/J Yarn Dyed Stripe (M/C Dia 42-48)

24

40-45

16 Full Feeder Lycra S/Jersey 24/28 30/s-34/s

28

17 Full Feeder Lycra S/Jersey 24/28 36/s-40/s

30

18 F.F.Lycra S/J Yarn Dyed Stripe (M/C Dia 18-40)

24

38-40

19 F.F.Lycra S/J Yarn Dyed Stripe (M/C Dia 42-48)

24

48-50

20 P.K / Lacost 24 30/s-24/s

15

21 P.K / Lacost 20 30/s-20/s

18

22 P.K / Lacost 28 34/s-26/s

20

23 P.K F/Stripe (M/C Dia 18-40) 24 25-30

24 P.K F/Stripe (M/C Dia 18-40) 20 30-35

25 P.K F/Stripe (M/C Dia 42-48) 24 30-40

26 P.K F/Stripe (M/C Dia 42-48) 20 45-50

27 1X1 Normal RIB 18 30/s-20/s

15

28 1X1 Normal RIB 18 32/s-36/s

18

29 Yarn Dyed (1X1) Stripe Rib 18 30/s-20/s

25-30

30 Lycra RIB (Half Feeder) 18 30/s-26/s

25-30

31 Lycra RIB (Full Feeder) 18 30/s-40/s

35-40

32 (2X1) RIB 18 30/s-20/s

25-28

33 (2X2) RIB 18 30/s-20/s

28-30

34 (2X1) H. Feeder Lycra Rib 18 30/s-24/s

35

35 (2X1) H. Feeder Lycra Rib 18 30/s-24/s

45

36 Plain Interlock 22/24 UP TO 18

32/s

37 Plain Interlock 22/24 34/s-40/s

20

38 Plain Interlock 28 40/s-50/s

28-36

39 Interlock Feeder Stripe 24 35-40

40 Interlock H.F Ly. Attachement 24 35-40

41 Interlock D / Needle 24 30/s-40/s

25-30

42 Mash/Flat Back Rib 60-80

43 Three Thread Fleece (French Terry)

18

44 Cross Terry 20-22

45 Three Thread Lycra Fleece ( French Terry)

35-40

46 Two Thread Fleece 20-22

47 Two Thread Lycra Terry 35-40

48 Engineering Stripe (4 Color) S/J 24 100-110

49 Engineering Stripe (6 Color) S/J 24 120-130

50 Engineering Stripe 2Ply 20 130-150

51 Engineering Stripe 2Ply 16 160-170

52 Engineering Stripe (4 Color) P.K/Lacost

24

120-125

53 Engineering Stripe (6 Color) P.K/Lacost

24

130-140

54 Eng. Stripe (4&6 Color) (H/ Feeder Lycra S/J.P.K)

24

220-230

55 Eng. Stripe (4&6 Color) (F/ Feeder Lycra S/J.P.K)

24

240-250

56 Eng. Stripe Flat Back Rib 300

57 Eng. Stripe Terry 24/20 180-220

58 Engineering Stripe (6 Color) RIB

170-180

59 Engineering Stripe (6 Color) Interlock

180-190

60 Engineering Stripe (6 Color) Lycra RIB / Interlock

250-300

61 Engineering Stripe 2X1 F. Feeder Lycra Rib

350-400

62 Engineering Stripe 2X1 H. Feeder Lycra Rib

350

63 Pointal Rib (Normal) 70-100

Education

Textile Fiber & Yarn