FLAVORS AND

FRAGRANCES

Chapter 7.2

Extracts

• According to the method of preparation, the extracts of fragrance & flavor substances obtained from plants can be classified as essential oils, pomades, concretes, absolutes, resinoids, oleoresins and tinctures

• Of these extracts only essential oils, absolutes and tincture are used directly to formulate perfumes

Steam distillation unit

Essential Oil

• Essential oil: Fragrant materials that have been extracted from a source material directly through distillation or expression and obtained in the form of an oily liquid. Oils extracted through expression are sometimes called expression oils.

Essential oils

Raw materials : various parts of plants• Production : essential oils are obtained from plant materials by distillation. After condensation the oil separate

from the aqueous phase is removed. The yield ranges from point 1 % to a few %• Essential oil consists of volatile compounds which are mainly hydrocarbons or mono functional compounds• Essential oils do not leave a grease stain• Individual compound can be isolated from essential oil containing 1 or few major components• Essential oil can be converted as a whole into derivatives

Pomades

• Fats that contains fragrances substances which are produced by hot or cold enfleurage of flowers.

• Hot enfleurage - in this method flowers or other parts of a plant are directly immersed in liquid or molten wax

• Cold enfleurage – the volatile components are released by the flowers into surrounding are absorbed with fat over along period of time

• This method is to produce high grade flower concentrate

Concretes

• These are prepared by extracting fresh plant materials with non polar solvents which are then evaporated.

• Concretes contains not only volatile fragrance materials, but also a large proportion of not volatile substances and are therefore not completely soluble in alcohol.

Absolutes

• These are prepared by mixing concrete with ethanol followed by cooling.

• The precipitated formed are removed and then ethanol is evaporated to produce an absolute.

• Absolutes are complete to soluble in ethanol• The yield is about 50% of the concrete use.

Resinoids

• These are prepared by extracting plant exudates with solvent such as ethanol, methanol or toluene.

• The yield range from 50% to 95% with the product highly viscous.

• Resinoids consist of non volatile compounds

• Uses : as fixative

Tinctures and Oleoresins

• Alcoholic solutions which are prepared by treating plant materials with ethanol or ethanol water mixtures.

• Tinctures also called infusions• Oleoresins : these are concentrates

prepared from spices ( e.g. pepper, ginger and vanilla) by solvent extraction

• Pepper and ginger oleoresins contain not only volatile aroma compounds but also substances responsible for pungency.

• Very often oleoresins are obtained by extraction with carbon dioxide

Banned Essential Oils

Oil Action Oil Action

Cade Oil Crude

Carcinogenic

StyrexGum

Sensitizer

Calamus Carcinogenic

Verbena Oil

Sensitizer

Sassafras Carcinogenic

Tea Absolute

Sensitizer

CostusRoot

Sensitizer Peru Balsam

Sensitizer

Elecampane

Sensitizer Horseradish Oil

Toxic and Iritant

Fig Leaf Absolute

Sensitizer Mustard Oil

Toxic and Iritant

Therapeutic Uses of Ess. Oils

Oil Action

Basil Depression, headache and migraine

Bergamot Skin Stress

Black Pepper Muscular ache and pains

Citronella Insect repellant

Clove Antispasmodic, antiseptic

Lavender To calm and relax , to soothe headache and migraine

Jasmin, Rose, Sandalwood, Ylang-ylang Aphrodisiacs

Tea Tree, Eucalyptus, Sandalwood & Thyme

Antiseptic, antimicrobial and disinfectant

Yarrow Joint inflammation

Physiological Effects of Ess. Oils

Oil Action

Bergamot Lack of confidence and courage, depression, wory, nervous tension, anxiety and grief

Benzoin Nervous anxiety, depression, worry, grief and loneliness

Cypress Bereavement, confusion, regret, emotional instability, impatience, mood swing, sorrow , irritability and withdrawal

Eucalyptus Bitterness, Guilt, loneliness, moodiness and resentment

Peppermint Depression and mental fatigue

Geranium Anxiety, confusion, depression, mental lethargy, moodiness, sadness and tearfullness

Essential oilEssential oil Plants Method of prep Main component

Garlic oil Garlic bulb Steam distillation Diallyl disulfide

Onion oil Onion bulb Steam distillation Cis and trans-propenylpropyl disulfide

Ambrette seed oil Abelmoschusmoschatus seed

Steam distillation 5-tetradicen-14-olide,farnesol and farnesyl acetate very expensive e.oil

Amyris oil ( mild wood odor)

Amyris balsamiferawood

Steam distillation Sesquiterpenoids, used as fixative

Angelica oil ( green herbasiouspepperymusklikeodor)

Angelica arc angelica

Steam distillation of root or seed

Sesquiterpenoids and terpenenoids

Anise oil (sweet odor of anethole)

Pimpinellaanisum

Steam distillation Transanethole,used for flavoring food, beverages and oral hygene product

Artemisia oil ( light herbaciusodor)

Artemisia asso Steam distillation ketone camphor and thujone, used in fine fragrance

Basil oil Basil Steam distillation of ocimum bacilicum to produce reunian basil oil and steam distillation of european basil species to produce european basil oil

Estragole in reunion basil oil ( > 80%).Linalool (35%-50%) and estragole ( 15% – 25%)

Bay Oil Pimenta race mosa leaves ( strong spicy clove like odor)

Steam distillation Eugenol,chavicol,myrceneused for perfuming after shave lotion

Benzoe Sumatra resinoids (sweet balsamic odor)

Styraxbenzoindryand

Solvent extraction Vanillin, benzoic & cinnamic acids

Essential oil Plants Method of prep Main component

Bitter almond oil ( almond like cherry aroma)

Prunusamygdalus seed

Steam distillation Benzaldehyde

Blackcurrant absolute Blackcurrant Solvent extraction from the bud

4-methoxy2-methyl-2butenethiol

Buchu leaf oil ( minty fruit odor )

Barosma betulina Steam distillation of leaf

p-menthane-8-thiol-3-one used in the colonge

Calamus oil ( spicy aromatic odor)

Acorus calamus Steam distillation of roots

b-asarone

Camphor oil / eucaliptusoil

Cinnamomumcamphora

Steam distillation of the wood

ciniole

Caraway oil ( mild spicy caraway odor)

Carvum carvi Steam distillation of seed

Lemonene & cavone,used for flavoring food & alcohol beverages

Cardamon oil (strong aromatic camphoraceusodor)

Elettariacardamomum

Steam distillation of the seed

1,8-ciniole and terpenyl acetate used for flavoring food

Carrot seed oil (pleasant aromatic odor)

Daucus carrota Steam distillatin of seed

Carrotol, used asfood flavor and in alcoholic beverages

Atlascedar oil (sweet woody aromatic odor)

Cedrus atlantica Steam distillation of wood

atlantone

Essential oil Plants Method of prep Main component

Celery seed oil ( spicy odor)

celery Steam distillation of seed

Limonene & selinene used for flavoring food

Chamomile oil ( Bitter aromatic taste)

Chamomilla recucita Steam distillation of the flower and stocks

Chamazulene and bisabobol

Cinnamon leaf oil (spicy odor )

cinnamon Steam distillation of leaf

Eugenol

cinnamon bug oil (spicy taste of cinnamon)

Cinnamon Steam distillation of bug

cinnamaldehyde

ceylon citronella oil (grassy odor)

cimbopogonnardus Steam distillation of leaf and stem

citronelal

Java citronella oil ( sweet flavory rose like odor)

cimbopogon winter ianus

Steam distillation of leaf & stem

Citronelal, citronelol, geraniol

Citrus oil :bergamot oil (sweet fruity odor)

Citrus aurantium Pressing pill from fruit

Linalool,citral & linalil acetate

Great fruit oil( sweet orange oil)

Citrus paradisy Cold pressing pills of the fruit

Limonene octanal & decanal

lemon oil ( lemon pear odor)

Citrus lemonspicytaste of cinnamon

Pressing pills of the fruit

Limonene b-pinene& terpenene, used in colonge

Essential oil Plants Method of prep Main component

Lime oil Citrus orantifolia Cold pressing Ciniole,citral

Mandarin oil Mandarin orange Cold pressing of the pills

Lemonene & terpenene

Orange oil bitter Citrus aurantium Cold pressing of the pills

Various aldehydes

Orange oil sweet Citrus sinensis Cold pressing of the pills

Lemonene and decanal

Clove bud oil Clove tree Steam distillation of bud

Eugenol,caryophylene, eugenol acetate

Clove leaf oil Clove tree Steam distillation of leaf

Eugenol acetate

Corriander oil Coriandrumsatifum

Steam distillation of fruit

Linalool & fatty aldehyde

cypress oil( wood like odor)

Cupressussempervirens

Steam distillation of france

3-carene and a-pynene

Dill oil Anetumgraveolens

Steam distillation Lymonene & carphonene

Essential oil Plants Method of prep Main component

Fennel oil Common fennel Steam distillation of seed

Trans-anethole, used in flavor and perfumery

Galbanum oil Ferula galbaniflua Steam distillation of root

Monoterpene & sesquiterpene,used in perfume

Geranium oil Pelargoniumgraveolens

Steam distillation Citronellol, isomenthone & formate

Ginger oil Zingiber oficynale Steam distillation of the root

Zingiberene & sesquiphelandrene

Ginger oleoresin Zingiber oficynale Extracting with alcohol or acetone

Gingerole & shogaol

Guaiacwood oil Bulnesia sarminty Steam distillation of showdas

Guaiol & bulnesol,used in perfumery

Jasmine absolute Jasminumgrandyflorum

Solvent extraction of the flowers

Benzyl acetate, indole, cis-jasmone& methyl jasmonate

Juniper berry oil Juniperus comunis Steam distillation of fruit

1-terpynen-4-ol,a-pynen-monoterpene,used in alcoholic beverages

Labdanum oil Sistus ladaniferus Steam distillation of the gum

Monoterpene, used widely in perfumery

Laurer leaf oil Laurus nobilis Steam distillation of leaf

1,8ciniole,eugenol,linalool, used for seasoning meat product & soup

Essential oil Plants Method of prep Main component

Lavender oil Lavandula anggustyfolia

Steam distillation of flowering top

Cis & transocimene, ciniole, linalool, linalil acetate, lavadulil acetate & camphor

Litseacubeba oil litseacubeba Steam distillation of fruit

Citral, used for perfuming household product

Lovage oil Levisticum oficinale Steam distillation of fruit & leaf

Terpynel acetate & ligustilide, used forflavoring to tobacco

Marjoram oil Origanum majorana Steam distillation of hert

1-terpynen-4ol & cis-sarbinenehydrate, used in men perfume

Corn mint oil Menta alvensis Steam distillation of hert

Menthyl acetate, menthol, menthone

Peppermint oil Menta pepperita Steam distillation of hert

Menthol, menthone, menthylacetate & menthofuran

Spearmint oil Menta spicarta Steam distillation of hert

Menthone,lymonene, dehydrocarfone, sarbinenehydrade, dehydrocarfilacetate & carfilacetate

Mentacitrata oil mentacitrata Steam distillation of her

Linalool & linalilacetate, used in perfuming soup

Pennyroyal oil Menta pulegium Steam distillation of flowering top

Pulegone, used for soup & oral product

Myrrh oil Commiphora myrrh Steam distrillation lindestrene

Essential oil Plants Method of prep Main component

Neroli oil Citrus aorantium Steam distillation of the blossom

Terpenehydrocarbon, used in finefragrances

Nutmeg oil nutmeg Steam distillation of the kernel

Terpinenehydrocarbon, 1-terpene-4-ol, used for food flavoring

Oak moss absolute Evernia prunastree Solvent extraction Orchinol, methyl3-methyl orselinate, used in perfumery

Olibanum oil Boswellia cartery Steam distillation Used for perfume

Orris root oil irishfallida Steam distillation of the root

Cis alpha irone & cisgamma irone, very expensive oil, used in perfumery & flavor

Patchuoli oil Phogostemon cablin Steam distillation of leaf

Patchualol nor patchulenol

Pepper oil Black pepper Steam distillation of fruit

Monoterpene hydrocarbon, sarbinene & pepperine

Peru balsam oil Meroxylon pereira Steam distillation Benzyl benzoate, benzylcinamate, nerollidol & vanillin, used in perfume & soup

Petite graine oil Citrus tree Steam distillation of leaves

Linalool, linalylacetate

Parsley oil Petroselinumcrispum

Steam distillation Mono terpenehydrocarbon, myristicin,apiol,used in food seasoning

Essential oil Plants Method of prep Main component

Pimento oil Pimenta dioica Steam distillation of fruit

1,8ciniole, eugenol & caryophylene, used mainly in food industry

Rose oil Rosa ex damassina Steam distillation of blossom

Citronelo, geraniol, nerol, phenethyl alcohol

Rosemary oil rosemarinusoficinalis

Steam distillation of twigs

1,8ciniole, gammaphinene and camphor, used in perfuming shampobathfoam & hairtonic

Rosewood oil Aniba rosae odora Steam distillation of wood

Linalool acetate, used in perfume for soap

Clarysage oil Salvia sclarea Steam distillation of flowering top

Linalil acetate. Linalol, terpene alcohol, terpeneacetate

Sandal wood oil Santalum album Steam distillation of wood

Alpha & beta santalol very valuable use in perfumery

Safrass oil Ocotea pretiosa Steam distillation of fruit, branches and trunk

safrole

Savory oil Satureja hortensis Steam distillation of the hert

Carvacrole, used forflavoring sausages and soups

Stranise oil Illiciumverum hook Steam distillation of fruit

Trans anithole, used for flavoring food & toothpaste

Tagetes oil Tagetes minuta Steam distillation of flowering plants

Cis ocimene, cis & trans ocimenone & tagetone&dihydrotagetone, used in flowery fragances

Essential oil Plants Method of prep Main component

Tarragon oil Artemisia drakunculus

Steam distillation for leaves ,stems & flowers

Estragole, used in perfumery

Tea tree oil Melaleucaalternifolia

steam distillation of leaves and twigs

1-terpynen-4-ol, used in perfumery for earthy notes

Thyme oil Thymus fulgaris Steam distillation of flowering plants

Thymol & carfacrol, used in perfumery for spicy leathery notes

Tolu balsam resinoid Myroxylonbalsamum

Solvent extraction Benzyl & cinnamylesters of benzoic and cinnamic acid, used in perfumery of balsamic note

Tonkabean absolute Dipteryx odorata Solvent extraction of tonkabean

Coumarin, used in menfragrances