1. 12th May 2015 Unit B4 Provide facial skincare treatment Unit
B8 Provide make-up services 2. Countdown has begun!!!! 1. 2 lessons
until half term week commencing 25.5.15 2. Salon 141 bookings need
100% commitment to attend 3. 4 lessons after half term, last day
with me this academic year 23.6.15 4. Facial exam booked for
Tuesday 2nd June 5. Make-up exam booked for Tuesday 16th June 3.
Contact details Please update your e mail and contact numbers.
Friends on facebook; Courtney and Kelly 4. Objectives New Anatomy
topics Recap Anatomy topics 1. Locate and describe the action of
specific facial muscles 2. State the functions of the blood
circulation 3. List components of blood 4. State the functions of
lymphatic system 5. List composition of lymph 6. Label main
arteries and veins of face, head and neck 7. Label lymph nodes of
the face and head Describe position and action of facial muscles
Identify layers of epidermis and their functions Label the
structure of the skin State the functions of the skin Compare
characteristics of skin types; normal, dry, oily and combination
Explain the benefits and effects of cleansers and toners Identify
contra indications that restrict and prevent facial treatments
Bones of the face, cranium, shoulder girdle Skin conditions 5.
Objectives By the end of the session today you will be able to ..
Make-Up B8 Morning session Facials B4 Afternoon session Identify
lighting required for day make- up List the correct products to be
used in a day make-up List procedure/order of work Prepare self for
carrying out make-up application Demonstrate preparation of trolley
and equipment (sanitising and sterilising) Complete make-up
consultation Demonstrate correct preparation of client for make-up
include cleanse Perform skin analysis and assess clients face shape
Demonstrate correct way to choose foundation colour (warm/cool)
Perform application of day make-up State benefits and contra-
indications to facial steamer and comedone extraction Observe
health and safety precautions Perform eye, lip, face cleanse and
skin analysis evaluating findings Demonstrate brush cleanse and
exfoliation techniques Perform massage techniques from movement 1
25 Peer and self evaluate techniques 6. B8 Provide make-up services
E3 open book exam E4 open book exam Minimum of 3 practical
assessments; Age 16 30 years 31 50 years Over 50 years Skin types
Oily Dry Combination Occasions Day Evening Special All make-up
products listed and aftercare advice 7. Treatment timings Make-up
Day = 30 minutes Evening = 45 minutes Special occasion = 45 minutes
Facials Basic = 60 minutes Luxury = 75 minutes 8. Facial Muscles
Triangularis Position The corner of the lower lip extends over the
chin. Action Draws down the mouths corners. Expression Sadness 9.
Facial Muscles Temporalis Position Extends from the temple region
at the side of the head to the mandible. Action Raises the jaw and
draws it backwards as in chewing. 10. Facial Muscles Frontalis
Position The forehead Action Raises the eyebrows, causes wrinkling
across forehead Expression Surprise 11. Facial Muscles Zygomaticus
Position Extends diagonally from zygomatic to corner of mouth
Action Lifts the corners of the mouth outward and backward
Expression Smiling and laughing 12. Facial Muscles Corrugator
Position Between the eyebrows Action Draws the eyebrows down and
together Expression Frowning 13. Facial Muscles Orbicularis Oculi
Position Surrounds the eye Action Closes the eyelid Expression
Winking 14. Facial Muscles Orbicularis Oris Position Surrounds the
mouth Action Purses the lips as in blowing, closes the mouth
Expression Pouting, kissing and doubtful 15. Facial Muscles
Masseter Position Cheek area, extends from zygomatic bone to the
mandible Action Clenches the teeth, closes and raises the lower jaw
used in eating 16. Facial Muscles Buccinator Position Inside the
cheeks between the upper and lower jaw Action Compresses the cheek
Expression Blowing 17. Facial Muscles Risorius Position Diagonally
from masseter muscle to corner of mouth Action Draws mouth corners
outwards and backwards Expression Grimace/fake smile 18. Facial
Muscle Depressor labii Position Surrounds the lower lip Action
Pulls down the lower lip and draws it slightly to one side
Expression Sulking 19. Facial Muscle Platysma Position Sides of
neck and chin Action Draws the mouths corners downwards and
backwards Expression Fear, horror 20. Facial Muscle Mentalis
Position Covers the front of the chin Action Raises the lower lip,
causing the chin to wrinkle Expression Doubt 21. Facial Muscle
Nasalis Position Covers the front of the nose and surrounds
nostrils Action Opens and closes the nasal openings Expression
Anger 22. Facial Muscle Procerus Position Covers the bridge of nose
Action Draws down eyebrows and wrinkles the skin over the bridge of
nose Expression Distaste 23. Facial Muscles- Homework
Sternocleido-mastoid Trapezius Occipitalis Deltoid Pectoralis major
24. Skin Ethnicity No difference in skin functions between white
and black skin, amount of pigment, melanin, varies resulting in
different colours of skin and hair People who originate from hot
countries and are nearer the equator have more melanin and a darker
skin pigment this is for greater protection from the strong UV rays
Those who originate from cooler countries have less melanin and a
lighter skin. Skin pigmentation is the result of millions of years
of evolution 25. African-Caribbean Dark skin colour and ranges in
tone to almost black Greater amount of melanin As black skin is
exposed to UV light it will absorb it and become darker Blemishes
on dark skin can cause scarring which may turn into keloid scars
Hyperpigmentation may appear with exposure to UV light Male
African-Caribbean clients may have tendency toward pseudo
folliculitis (inflammatory skin disorder) Dermatosis papulosis
nigra, also called flesh moles, can occur. They are brown or black
hyperpigmented markings, resembling moles, usually seen on cheeks
Hair colour is dark brown to black 26. Asian Light to dark tone due
to increase in melanin with yellow undertones Tendency toward
hyperpigmentation Scarring can appear following skin inflammation
Dermatosis papulosis nigra can occur Females have superfluous
facial hair Hair colour is dark brown to black 27. Caucasion The
skin colour is pink Less melanin and less defence against UV light
Sun damage results in burning and premature ageing Tendency to show
freckles (ephelides) Hair colour is usually fair, red or brown 28.
Oriental Skin colour has more melanin present and a yellowish tone
Oriental skin is usually oily and prone to hyperpigmenation Easily
scars Female skin generally appears smooth and has little facial
hair Hair colour is usually mid-brown to black 29.
Hyperpigmentation Can affect any race and any skin Chloasma or
liver spots are example of hyperpigmentation and visible as dark
brown marks often on back of hands, caused by skin damage by the
sun, skin trauma or hormonal imbalance Freckles or ephilides are
also hyperpigmentation and become darker on UV exposure 30.
Chloasma Lentigo 31. Hypopigmentation Vitiligo (loss of skin
pigment) is a problem when it occurs in dark skin as its very
obvious 32. Natural Ageing process on skin and muscle tone Young
clients may have skin problems such as blemishes, open pores,
comedones, pustules and papules due to over active sebaceous gland
at puberty Skin of clients aged 25 years or above would be
considered mature skin Therapist has to consider skin tone and
muscle tone in relationship to clients age Young skin will have
good skin tone and the skin is supple and elastic. Collagen and
elastin fibres are strong Poor skin tone is recognized by
appearance of facial lines and wrinkles Healthy, young skin will
also have good muscle tone and the facial contours will appear
firm. Poor muscle tone, the muscles become slack and loose Poor
lifestyle choices and general health affect how quickly our skin
shows visible signs of ageing 33. Mature skin Change in females
skin is related to the altered production of hormones; oestrogen,
progesterone and androgen at the menopause Dry skin Skin looses
elasticity as elastin fibres harden Wrinkles appear due to
hardening of collagen fibres Epidermis grows slowly, skin appears
thin around eyes with small veins showing Broken capillaries on
cheek and nose Facial contours become slack as muscle tone reduced
Underlying bone structure becomes obvious as fatty layer and the
supportive tissue beneath the skin grow thinner Blood circulation
becomes poor which affects skin nutrition Waste products are not
removed so quickly leading to puffy skin Patches of pigmentation
appear on the skin surface 34. Male skin Female skin More acidic
skin surface Stratum corneum thicker Coarse facial hair Sensitized
skin due to shaving daily Dry skin due to shaving daily and
aftershave products Collagen, elastin and sebum production remains
constant and even Firmer skin More alkaline skin surface Thin
stratum corneum Collagen, elastin and sebum production slows down
during menopause 35. Blood Constituents of blood Functions Plasma
50% of blood straw coloured liquid mainly water Erythrocytes red
blood cells. 40 50% of blood. Red due to haemoglobin, carries
oxygen from lungs to cells Leucocytes white blood cells. Main role
is protection destroying foreign bodies and dead cells Thrombocytes
platelets. When blood exposed to air, cells bind together to form a
clot. Along with leucocytes makes up 1-2% of blood Other chemicals
- hormones Carries oxygen from lungs Carries nutrients from
digested food to supply energy and muscles to function Carries
waste product and carbon dioxide from cells and tissues away for
elimination Carries cells and substances to allow body to prevent
or fight disease and heal injury Transports hormones 36. Bones of
the cranium and skull Bones are made from a specialized form of
connective tissue They support, protect and connect different parts
of the body Bones are made up of 2 types of tissue; compact (hard
outer layer of the bone) and cancellous (spongy inside of bone,
contains red and yellow bone marrow. Red produces new red blood
cells and yellow stores fat cells) 37. Bones of the head Bones that
form the head are known as the skull Divided into 2 parts; face and
cranium Total of 22 bones Our facial bones form our features
Support other structures such as eyes and teeth Cranium surrounds
and protects the brain 38. Facial Bones Bone Number Location Nasal
2 Bridge of nose Vomer 1 Forms the dividing bony wall of nose.
Inbetween nose and palatte (septum) Palatine 2 Floor &wall of
the nose, roof of mouth and bottom of eye orbits Turbinate 2 Bones
inside nose Lacrimal 2 Inner wall of eye sockets Zygomatic 2 Cheek
bone Maxillae 2 Upper jaw holds the teeth Mandible 1 Lower jaw,
strongest only movable bone, holds lower teeth. 39. Facial Bones
Bone Number Location occipital 1 Back of skull parietal 2 Forms the
roof of the skull frontal 1 Forms the front of skull, forehead and
upper eye sockets temporal 2 At sides around ears sphenoid 1 Base
of skull, wing shaped, forms temples ethmoid 1 Between the frontal
and sphenoid bones and forms roof of nasal cavity lacrimal 2 One in
each eye orbit 40. Lighting Natural light is recommended (pure
white light) as this doesnt just fall on the face from above, it is
reflected from any light coloured surface it hits Only light that
shows true colours Harshest light to show imperfections Combination
of natural light and warm white fluorescent lighting gives best
effect 41. Artificial lighting Standard light bulbs Fluorescent
tubes Yellowish colour produced This dulls blue tones and makes red
tones appear darker A light bulb cover with a shade directs light
down which will create unnatural shadows White tubes give a harsh
blue white light making colours appear cold If bulb is covered with
a diffuser it will soften the effect and create little shadows Warm
white tubes with a diffuser is the best type of artificial light
for matching make-up colours 42. Foundation Protects the skin
Conceals minor blemishes and imperfections Provides a smooth finish
Enhances the natural skin colour 43. Tone of skin Created by
pigment in the epidermis Described as; light, medium, dark 44.
CONSULTATION When discussing the treatment with the client you need
to ensure that the questions are open ended, to gain as much
information from your client as possible What are your reasons for
coming today? What results would you like to achieve from having a
facial? What medical conditions do you have? What skin care routine
do currently follow at home? What products do you currently use?
45. Starter Activity 46. Lets scrub! 3 minute activity GROUP 1
Claire, Courtney and Alice GROUP 2 Shannon and Kelly You have 3
minutes to complete some research on facial exfoliators; 1. Types
of facial exfoliator or Fruit acid peels 2. What they will do 3.
How to use them 47. Brush Cleansing Aids desquamation Stimulates
cell renewal Removes surface matter Deep cleanses and refines
Relaxes muscle fibres Stimulates superficial tissues Aids removal
of waste products from the area Increases blood and lymph
circulation 48. Skin warming techniques Hot towels Facial steaming
Self heating products; thermal masks 49. Contra-indications: Asthma
or cold conditions Claustrophobia Excessive dilated capillaries
Skin with reduced sensitivity Vascular disorders Diabetes 50. The
effects are: opens the pores stimulate the blood and lymphatic
circulation to the area softens the cells of the epidermis helps
desquamation improves the sebaceous gland activity Improves the
skin colour. 51. Facial steamer Ensure that the clients eyes are
protected with damp cotton wool and any areas of delicate skin must
be protected with barrier cream or damp cotton wool. Explain to the
client what sensation they should expect to feel, how long the
treatment will take and the effect it will have on the skin.
Steaming can be done between 3-20 minutes, but this depends on the
type of skin (greasy skins normally require a longer time). 52. The
distance of the steamer from the face will usually depend on the
skin type. The following is a guide (always follow manufactures
instructions): Dry skin/Mature: 15ins (40cm) Normal skin: 12ins
(30cm) Greasy skin: 10ins (25cm) Many vapour units produce ozone
when the oxygen in the steam is passed over a high intensity quartz
mercury ac tube. Ozone is good for blemished, greasy skin types.
Ozone is drying and anti-bacterial. You have to follow the health
and safety rules regarding ozone treatments and ensure ozone is
only used in well ventilated rooms and only for short periods of
time. 53. After applying the steam vapour, blot the skin dry with a
tissue and proceed to remove any blockages. At the end of the
treatment it is important to always turn off the machine and unplug
it. Contra-actions steaming Scalding caused by the machine spitting
from a faulty steam jet or by the vessel being over filled Over
stimulation of the skin due to incorrect application, distance and
duration of the steam 54. Now lets get you working. 1. Set up of
area 2. Consultation 3. Client preparation 4. Eye cleanse 5. Lip
cleanse 6. Superficial cleanse 7. Skin analysis 8. Exfoliation and
brush cleanse 9. Hot towels 10.Massage Swap over 55. Evaluation of
treatment Am I in the correct uniform? Was my consultation
thorough? What area am I most confident with? What area do I need
to practice more? How long did my treatment take? Was my pressure
correct? Did I remain professional throughout? Did I keep my
working area tidy? Did I complete a detailed skin analysis What
would I do different next time? 56. Comedone extraction Equipment
required: Disposable rubber gloves Medical swabs Sharps disposable
container Facial tissues Stainless steel comedone extractor
Disposable milia extractor needle After warming the skin the mouth
of the follicle is more relaxed and will allow for easier comedone
extraction. If the comedones have been present for a long time a
longer period of steaming or skin softening treatment may be
required before they are released. 57. Comedone extraction cont.
You will need a magnifying lamp to help you be more accurate when
removing the comedones. It is important to avoid bruising or
damaging the skin. There are two methods for removing comedones. 1.
Using a sterile looped comedone extractor, apply light pressure
around the comedone to ease it out. 2. You may need to apply gentle
pressure with your fingers at the sides of the comedone using the
pads of the index fingers wrapped in a tissue to ensure that it is
fully removed. You must be careful not to apply strong pressure or
else you can damage the skin. 58. Comedone extraction cont.
Contra-actions Skin bruising could occur if too much pressure is
applied. Capillary damage may result if too much force is applied,
causing the surrounding blood capillaries to rupture causing
permanent skin damage. 59. Homework Research position and action of
next 5 muscles Complete skin ethnicity handout Find out functions
of blood circulation Find out functions of lymphatic circulation
USE ORACLE FOR SUPPORT Practice massage in salon time routine
