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Fabric Studies 06/11/22 Fabric Styling - Neha Singh

Fabric studies final

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Page 1: Fabric studies final

Fabric Studies

04/11/23 Fabric Styling - Neha Singh

Page 2: Fabric studies final

Fiber structure Physical attributes

• Fiber length• Staple fibers• Filament fibers- silk

• Fiber shape- fiber cross-sectional shape influences the way light is reflected from the surface. A flat surface fiber has more luster than a round one. A round fiber reflects light is one general direction, causing a shiny surface.

• A multi lobal shaped fiber tends to scatter the light, causing the diffuse glow with sparkles.

• Irregular cross-section scatters light in many directions, resulting a dullish appearance.

.

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• Fiber surface- The surface of fiber vary.

• Smooth, rough, slightly grooved, wrinkled etc.

• The fiber surface affects such as properties as hand, luster and wicking

• Fiber Longitudinal Configuration

• Lengthwise, fibers have varying configurations. They may be straight, twisted, coiled, or crimped. Exp cotton and nylon.

• Various properties like resiliency, elasticity and abrasion resistance are affected by fiber longitudinal configuration.

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• Greater crimp increase resiliency, bulk, warmth, elongation, absorbency and skin comfort.

• However , hand becomes harsher and luster is reduced as crimp increases

• Crimp allows the fiber to stand off the skin so fabric will not cling to the wearer skin.

• Crimp is inherent in the wool fiber.

• Fiber Diameter

• Fiber diameter refers to the thickness of the fiber. Thicker fibers result is greater stiffness, which improves wrinkle resistance but can also result in an undesirable roughness.

• Large diameter fibers result in bulkier fabrics. Fine diameter fibers can result in fabric that is sheer, lightweight and generally more drapable and softer to the touch than the fabric of thicker fibers.

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• Chemical composition and molecular formation

• fibers are classified into various groups by their chemical composition:

• Cellulosic, protein and synthetic

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Essential properties

• Abrasion Resistance- is the ability to resist wear from rubbing that contributes to

fabric durability.

• Exp- Nylon is used extensively in action outerwear, such as ski jackets , and soccer

shorts, because it is very strong and resist abrasion .

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• Absorbency – Absorbency is the ability to take in moisture.

• Fibers able to absorb water easily are called hydrophilic fibers.

• Hydrophilic fibers- all natural animal and vegetable fibers and two manufactured

fibers, rayon and acetate.

• Hydrophobic fibers- fibers that have difficulty absorbing water and are only able to

absorb small amounts .

• Skin comfort, Static build-up, dimensional stability in water, stain removal,

water repellency, wrinkle recovery04/11/23 Fabric Styling - Neha Singh

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• Cover- cover is the ability to occupy an area. A thick fiber or one with crimp or curl

gives fabric better cover than a thin, straight fiber.

• Elasticity- is the ability to increase in length when under tension (elongation ) and

then return to the original length when released (recovery)

• Lengthening when tension is placed on the fiber or fabric makes for a more

comfortable garment and causes less seam stress.

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• Environmental conditions- the effect of environmental conditions on fibers vary.

How fabrics react to certain exposure or storage , is important. The following are

some examples-

• Wool garments needs to be mothproofed when stored because they are susceptible

to damage by these wool eating insects.

• Nylon and silk show strength losses from extended exposure to sunlight. Therefore ,

they are normally not used for curtains and drapes.

• Cotton has poor resistance to mildew and should not be allowed to remain wet for

long periods of time.

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• Flammability- is the ability to ignite or burn.

• Fibers are usually classified as being flammable flame resistant , or flameproof.

• Flammable fibers- are relatively easy to ignite and sustain combustion.

• Flame-resistant fibers- have a relatively high ignition temperature and slow rate of

burning .

• Flame proof fibers- will not burn.

• Regular polyester is flammable , but Trevira polyester , which is flame resistant.

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• Flexibility- is the capability of fibers to bend easily and repeatedly without breaking.

• Hand- is the way a fiber, yarn or fabric feels when handled. The hand of the fiber is affected by its shape, surface and configuration .

• Luster- refers to the light reflected from a surface. Various characteristics of a fiber effect the amount of luster.

• Increased light reflection occurs from a smoother surface, less crimp, flatter cross sectional shape and longer fiber length.

• Pilling- is the formation of groups of short or broken fibers on the surface of a fabric that are tangled together in the shape of tiny ball called pill.

• Resiliency- is the capability of a material to spring back to shape after being creased, twisted or distorted.

• A fabric that has good resiliency does not wrinkle easily

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• Specific gravity- is the ratio of the mass of the fiber to an equal volume of water at

4degree c .

• Static Electricity- is a frictional electric charge caused by the rubbing together of two

dissimilar materials.

• Strength- is a fiber’s ability to withstand stress.

• Tenacity- the force needed to break the fiber, is known as tenacity and expressed in

grams per denier or grams per fiber weight.

• Glass, Nylon and Polyester are very strong. Acetate and acrylic are weak.

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• Thermo plasticity- the ability of fibers to withstand heat exposure is an important

factor affecting their suitability for many end uses.

• Wicking- is the ability of fiber to transfer moisture from one section to another.

Usually the moisture is along the fiber surface, but it may also pass through the fiber

when a liquid is absorbed by the fiber.

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scan

Molecular arrangements in fibers

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Longitudinal forms and surface texture of fibers

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Effects of external features and delusterant particles on fiber luster

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Texturizing yarns

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Texturizing yarns

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Developments of fibres• Till the beginning of 20th century all fibres in use were natural

• Around 1891-92 the first man-made ‘Artificial Silk’ (Viscose rayon) was discovered

• In 1938, Dupont developed the first synthetic polyamide fibre ‘Nylon’, followed by the development of polyester

• Thus a distinct class of man-made fibres/ synthetic fibres were developed

• 1950-60s –acrylic, PP, PVA, Teflon, Lycra were developed

• In the last fifty years of research a host of new improved man-made cellulosic, protein, aramid and functional fibres have been developed

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Classification of fibres

Fibres

Natural Man-made

Vegetable/Cellulosic

Animal/Protein

Mineral

Cellulosic

Synthetic

Protein

Mineral

Metallic

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Cellulosic fibres

Cellulosic fibresCotton

Hemp

Jute

Flax

Sisal

Coir

Pina

Banana

Bamboo

Kenaf fibre

Kenaf Products

Coir mat

Hemp filament bag

Extraction of

Banana fibre

Towels from bamboo fibre

Costume from pina fibre Cotton fibre

Jute

Hemp

Sisal

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Cotton

• Comfort factors- High absorbency makes cotton

suitable for hot weather clothing- Slow in wicking moisture from inner

to the outer surface of the fabric

• Care factors

- May be laundered or dry cleaned, withstands frequent laundering. Cotton which is not sanforized tends to shrink on washing

- Weakened by acids, have high resistance to alkalies

Cross –section and longitudinal view of cotton fibre before mercerization

Cotton fibre after mercerization

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Cotton fibre• Microscopic appearance

• Crystallinity

• Tensile strength: 3.5 g/d -4 g/d ( wet strength 4.5 g/d)

• Elongation 3-7%

• Hygroscopic nature

• Chemical properties:

– Effect of acids

– Effect of alkalis

– Effect of bleaches

• Effect of sunlight

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Flax (Linen)

• Comfort factors- High absorbency and quick drying

makes linen suitable for hot weather clothing

- Poor elasticity gives stiff handle

• Care factors- May be laundered or dry cleaned,

withstands frequent laundering. - Wrinkling and crease formation

occurs easily- Weakened by acids, have high

resistance to alkalies

Cross sectional and longitudinal view of flax

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Flax fibre

• Microscopic appearance

• Crystallinity more than cotton

• Tensile strength: 3.5 g/d -5g/d Elongation 2%

• Hygroscopic nature

• Chemical properties:

– Effect of acids

– Effect of alkalis

– Effect of bleaches

• Effect of sunlight

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Properties

Cotton Flax Jute Viscose rayon

Composition Cellulose Cellulose Cellulose Cellulose

Tenacity, g/d 3-5 3.5-5 3.5-5 2.5 – 3

Elongation, %

5% 2% 1.5-2% 16-18%

Moisture Regain. %

8.5 % 7% 7% 12-14%

Thermal properties

1500 C starts discolouring, doesnot melt

2800 C starts discolouring, doesnot melt

2800 C starts discolouring, doesnot melt

1500 C starts discolouring, doesnot melt

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Natural Protein fibres

Protein fibres

Silk Wool Speciality hair

Indian silk

Chinese silk

Dupion silk

Spun silk

Sheep/ lamb Camel (alpaca)

Goat (mohair)

Angora rabbit

Goat (Cashmere)

Mulberry

Tasar

Muga

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Wool

• Comfort factors

- Absorbs water, good wicking ability

- Thermal and insulating qualities contribute to warming effect making it suitable for cold weather clothing

• Care factors

- Usually dry cleaned - Yellows and discolours when

subjected to chlorine bleach- Damaged by moths unless

treated- Susceptible to pilling

SEM image of wool

Wool fibre with natural crimp

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Wool -properties• Structure• Felting of wool: It is the irreversible shrinkage of the length, breadth or

thickness of the yarn. This is done by subjecting the woollen textile to agitation in an aqueous solution.

• Wool polymer: keratin ( repeating units: amino acids)– Cystine ( sulphur containing amino acids)– Crystallinity: 25-30 % crystalline

• Tenacity: 1.4-2.4 g/d• Elongation: 25%• Moisture regain: 18-20%• Heat of wetting from dry to saturation ( joules per gram): 113• Thermal properties: poor conductor • Setting of wool

– Temporary set– Permanent set– Chemical set

• Chemical properties

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Silk

• Comfort factors- Absorbs moisture, good wicking ability- High thermal conductivity

- Warmer than other natural fibre fabrics of comparable weight, good elasticity

• Care factors

- Preferably dry cleaned, stains from body oil and perspiration, water spots appear from steam

- Tends to shrink when dry cleaned

- Attacked by moth and other insects

SEM image of silk filament

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Silk -properties• Structure

• Silk polymer: Amino acids( 16 types. Wool- 20 types)

• Crystallinity: 60-70% crystalline

• Tenacity: 4.5 g/d

• Elongation: 20%

• Moisture regain: 11%

• Thermal properties: poor conductor

• Chemical properties– Degrades more readily by acids than wool ( acidic perspiration damages

silk)– Alkalis causes swelling and dissolution

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Angora

• The hair of the Angora rabbit is allowed to

grow 3 or more inches long before it is

clipped, sheared, or plucked. This process

causes no harm to the animals and are

carried out four times each year.

• The total annual yield for a single Angora

rabbit ranges from 7 to 14 ounces, is

enough to construct one small garment,

such as a short-sleeved sweater.

• Clothing of Angora rabbit wool are usually

have a very nice feel against the skin.

Many people who find garments made of

sheep’s wool scratchy and uncomfortable

find Angora wool comfortable.

Angora rabbits

Angora woolPolarized microscopy image of angora fibre

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Cashmere

• Properties- Fibre is cylindrical, soft and silky, light

weight- In order to avoid pilling by local

friction, the lining must be slippery- Cashmere/ Pashmina can be dyed in

different colours

• Care factors- Preferably dry cleaned, should be

dried in shade, not direct sunlight- Cashmere garments should be folded

and kept and should not be hanged to prevent deformation.

Polarized light microscopy image of cashmere

Cashmere / Pashmina goats

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Mineral fibre (Asbestos)• Type of rock ( silicates of

magnesium and calcium)

• Asbestos is used in industry for thermal insulation, fireproofing and sealing.

• Spun asbestos is used for fireproof and chemical-resistant clothing.

• The inhalation of large quantities of fibre can cause asbestosis which increases the risk of bronchial cancer.

• In particular, dusts < 200 micron are highly toxic and suspected of being a direct cause of tumours.

Asbestos fibres

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Man made fibres

Man made

Natural polymer Synthetic polymerRefractory

and related fibres

Regnerated cellulose

Cellulose acetate

Regenerated protein

Alginate, Chitosan

Polyesters

Polyamides

Polyurethane

Polypropylene

Polyethylene

Carbon fibre

Glass fibre

Metallic fibres

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Regenerated cellulosic fibre

Regenerated cellulosic fibre

Viscose rayon Polynosic Modal Lyocel Cellulose acetate Cellulose triacetae

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Viscose rayon

• Comfort factors- More absorbent than cotton, without

producing wet cling

- The irregular cross-section of viscose contributes to comfort when worn against skin

• Care factors- May be laundered or dry cleaned;

easy to iron

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Viscose rayon -properties• Microscopic appearance

• Crystallinity 35-40%

• Tensile strength: 2.5 g/d -3 g/d ( wet strength 1.5 g/d)

• Elongation 16-18%

• Moisture regain: 12-14%

• Chemical properties: More sensitive to acids than cotton

– Effect of acids

– Effect of alkalis

– Effect of bleaches

• Effect of sunlight

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Viscose rayon of different cross-sectional shapes

“Galaxy”- a Y–shaped viscose rayon fibre with highly absorbency and bulk

Viloft - a flat cross sectional viscose rayon fiber gives a unique soft handle and pleasing drape

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Modal

• Comfort factors

- More stronger than viscose in wet and dry state

- One problem is the almost perfectly circular cross-sectional shape; this makes leaner yarns than irregularly shaped standard viscose rayon.

• Care factors- May be laundered or dry cleaned;

easy to iron- But gradually fibrillate on wet

processing

Cross-section of modal fibres

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Lyocell

• Comfort factors

- More absorbent than cotton

• Care factors- May be laundered or dry cleaned;

easy to iron- But gradually fibrillate on abrasion in

wet state• Produced by Acordis and Lenzing AG.

More costly than viscose rayon

Cross section of lyocell

Surface view of lyocell

Fibrillation of lyocell fibre

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Cellulose acetate

• Comfort factors- Moisture regain is lower than viscose

rayon

• Care factors- Dry cleaning is recommended; easy

to iron, dries quickly- Shrinkage can occur during

laundering

• Applications- The use of acetate fibre has declined

in the past three decades but it can be used for medical gauze, ribbons, home furnishings, woven velvets, tricot knits, men's linings, circular knits, woven satins, woven women's linings.

- Thermoplastic fibre –can be heat set

SEM mage of cellulose acetate cross-section

Polarized microscope image of cellulose acetate filament- striations on surface

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Cellulose acetate- properties• Microscopic appearance

• Crystallinity : 40%

• Tenacity: 2.5 g/d

• Elongation 16-18%

• Moisture regain: 6.5 %

• Thermal properties: Heat sensitive, softens at 175-1900C

• Chemical properties: More sensitive to acids than cotton

– Effect of acids: Acids hydrolyze

– Effect of alkalis: Resistant to alkalies

– Effect of bleaches: Same as cotton fibres

• Effect of sunlight:

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Regenerated protein fibre- soybean protein fibre

• Soybean protein fibre (SPF) is produced from the residual cake after oil is extracted from soybean seeds.

• SPF fabrics have cashmere feel but is softer and smoother than cashmere.

• The moisture absorption is similar to that of cotton

• It has silk like luster and elegant drape.

• The elastic recovery rate is 55.4% where for other fibres it is 60-70%.

• Good colour fastness

Soybean seeds

Soybean fibre products

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Man made fibres from synthetic polymers

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Polyester fibre ( polyethylene terepthalate)

• Comfort factors- Most popular and common fibre

used in active wear and sportswear.

- Wicking is faster than cotton through hydrophobic in nature

- Hydrophilic finish can be applied when worn next to skin

• Care factors

- Easy care fibre

Normal polyester fibre

Antibacterial polyester fibre (zeolite added)

Hollow polyester filament

‘Eskimotech’ blanket from hollow polyester fibre

Coolmax (INVISTA) microchannel polyester fibre for sportwear

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Polyester-properties• Structure: Normal cross-section is circular

• Crystallinity: 65-85% crystalline

• Moisture regain: 0.4%

• Tenacity: Strong fibre (2.4-7 g/d) Wet tenacity is the same.

• Wrinkle resistance/ Crease resistance: The extreme crystallinity of the polymer system prevents the polyester filament from bending readily.

• Thermoplastic nature:

• Chemical properties:

– Effect of acids: ester groups of polyester are resistant to acid hydrolysis

– Effect of alkalis: Alkanine hydrolysis at the ester groups ( finer & silkier with regular laundering)

– Effect of bleaches: Sodium chlorite

• Effect of sunlight: Resistant to sunlight

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Nylon- polyamide polymer• Comfort factors- Trilobal and multilobal nylon

has good wicking properties

- High abrasion resistance

- High flexibility and elasticity

- Used in swimwear, cycling shorts, sports socks, etc.

• Care factors- Easily laundered, dries fast

- Fabrics have high tensile, tear and burst strength, even at low fabric weight

Nylon filament of different cross-sectional shapes

Silver incorporated antibacterial nylon filament

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Nylon -properties Structure: Normal cross-section is trilobal/ circular/ Density: 1.14 g/cc ( light weight) Crystallinity: 65-85% crystalline Moisture regain: 4% Tenacity: Strong fibre (3.5-7.2 g/d) Wet tenacity is the same. Wrinkle resistance/ Crease resistance: The high crystallinity of the

polymer system makes nylon crease resistant. Thermoplastic nature: Chemical properties: More sensitive to acids than cotton

Effect of acids: Less resistant to acid (amide groups- hydrolysis) Effect of alkalis: Frequent exposure causes alkanine hydrolysis

Effect of bleaches: hydrogen peroxide ,Sodium chlorite Effect of sunlight: Fair resistant to sunlight

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Acrylic

• Comfort factors- Acrylics have a soft handle

- The slight waviness of the acrylic fibres provides slight bulkiness to the yarns and warmth

• Care factors- Easily laundered, machine

washable, dries fastGeneral cross-section and surface view of acrylic fibre

Modacrylic winterwear

Blankets

Police vestsInflight products

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Properties-acrylic• Structure: Normal cross-section dog bone

• Density: 1.17 g/cc ( light weight)

• Crystallinity: 65-85% crystalline

• Moisture regain: 2.5 %

• Tenacity: 2.0-3.6 g/d

• Thermoplastic nature:

• Chemical properties: More sensitive to acids than cotton

– Effect of acids: Less resistant to acid

– Effect of alkalis: Weak alkalies do not affect acrylics

• Effect of sunlight: Fair resistant to sunlight

• End uses: blankets, carpets, socks, knitted sweaters, sportswear fabric

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Polypropylene ( Olefin Fibres)

• Different types of yarn, tapes, sheets and nonwoven products can be made

• Used widely in the production of disposable medical protective apparels, carpets and industrial textiles

PP products

Polarized microscope image of PP filament

Grass mats

Crop covers Bags Antiweed fabric

Carpets

Medical products

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Properties -olefin• Density: 0.91 g/cc ( light weight)

• Crystallinity: 65-85% crystalline

• Moisture regain: 0-0.05 % ( Doesn't absorb moisture, helps in quick transport of moisture)

• Tenacity: 1.5-7 g/d

• Thermoplastic nature:

• Chemical properties: generally excellent

• Effect of sunlight: Resistant to sunlight after incorporation of stabilizers

• Electric insulation : excellent

• Resistant to mildew, moth: Excellent

• End uses: carpets, socks, blankets, ropes, woven sacks, packing material, soft luggage, surgical disposables, etc.

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UHMWPE

• Ultra high molecular weight polyethylene (UHMWPE)

e.g. Dyneema

Spectra ( Allied signal)

Bullet proof vest

Bullet proof helmet04/11/23 Fabric Styling - Neha Singh

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Polyurethane

• Properties- Can be stretched to 600 times, elastic

property is unaffected by moisture due to its hydrophobic nature

• Comfort factors- Doesnot contribute to comfort

• Care factors- Hot water should not be used during

laundering. Should not be exposed to direct sunlight

Spandex is a generic term used in USA for elastomeric fibre.

LYCRA® is a registered trademark of INVISTA for premium stretch fibers and fabrics

Discovered in 1959 at Dupont by Joseph Shivers, spandex sprang in the market as an replacement for rubber

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Properties -Polyurethane

• Density: 1.2-1.35 g/cc ( light weight)• Crystallinity: amorphous• Moisture regain: 0-0.3 % • Tenacity: 1.5 g/d • Thermal properties: High temperature affects the fibre • Advantages over rubber: Prolonged exposure to sunlight hardens

& discolours rubber, it doesnot damage spandex. Body oils and dry-cleaning solvents damage rubber not spandex.

• Sensitive to high concentrations of chlorine.

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Man made fibres from refractory and related

materials

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Glass• Properties- Brittle in nature- Resistant to very high

temperature- Resistant to chemicals - Limiting oxygen index (LOI) >100- Best utilized by embedding in

matrix forms

• Applications- Aircraft interiors- Glass reinforced composites- e.g. boat hulls, car bodies - Insulating material

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Carbon fibres

• Properties- High strength and modulus- Low extensibility and light weight- Usable temperature 315-3700C- Carbon nanotube incorporated

fibres are conductive in nature, with extremely high tensile strength

• Applications- Used for manufacture of

structural composites, used in aerospace, military, transportation and for industrial applications.

Carbon nanotubes

Carbon fibre

Carbon Fabric

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Ceramic fibre

Properties:

• Low thermal conductivity

• Thermal shock resistant

• Light weight

• Excellent sound absorption

• Resists most chemical attack

• Unaffected by water & steam

• Very low heat storage

• Resilient

• Uses:

Fire screen made from ceramic fibres

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Metallic fibre

• Metallic fibre, are composed of metal, metal-coated plastic, or of a core covered by metal (usually aluminum).

• Trademarked names include Chromeflex, Lurex, and Melora.

• Foil types are made with a metal foil that is coated with a plain or coloured plastic film and then cut into strips.

Protective coat with reflectors Comingled

conductive yarn04/11/23 Fabric Styling - Neha Singh

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Classification of fibres based on end uses

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Conventional fibres• Natural

e.g. cotton, wool, silk, jute, etc.

• Regenerated

e.g. viscose, lyocel, soybean

• Synthetic man made

e.g. polyamide, polyester, polyacrylics, polyurethanes, polyolefins (PP)

• Applications

- Apparel

- Furnishings

- Technical textiles

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High strength, high modulus organic fibres

• Para-aramids

e.g. Kevlar (Dupont)

Twaron ( Acordis)

• Ultra high molecular weight polyethylene (UHMWPE)

e.g. Dyneema

Spectra ( Allied signal)

Applications

Bullet proof helmetBullet proof vest

Kevlar and PTFE rope

Dyneema cut resistant gloves

Cut resistant gloves using yarn made of kevlar sheath and spandex core

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Kevlar -properties

• Outstanding strength

• Temperature resistance

• Its resistance to chemicals and temperature extremes make Kevlar® an ideal component for ropes and cables under severe loads in harsh environments.

• Other uses: Belting in radial tyres, protective apparels, pressure vessels, helicopter parts.

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High chemical and combustion resistant organic fibres

Fire Breaker - Innovative Design & High-Tech MaterialsAn appealing design, optimum freedom of movement combined with highest level of protection – that has not automatically to be a difference!

Meta-aramids

e.g. Nomex (Dupont), Conex (Teijin)

Uses:

Texport04/11/23 Fabric Styling - Neha Singh

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High performance inorganic fibre

• Carbon• Cearmics- high temperature

performance

• Tungsten• Silicon carbide

Silicon carbide fibre

Silicon carbide fibre with tungsten core

Fire screens made of ceramic fibres

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Microfilaments

• Linear density of approximately 1.0 dtex or less

• Usually made from polyester/nylon

• Brand names: Mitrelle, Setila, Micrell, Tactel

• Used for production of fashionable clothing and also bacteria barrier fabric for medical applications

• Split technique of production produces microfilaments that can be used for wiping cloth for optical and microelectronic industriesSplittable

microfibre

( Kanebo Japan,Elaston)

Sea island type microfibre manufactured by Toray Japan

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Microfilament products

Microfilament spunlace nonwoven : Soft, drapable and much lighter than traditional textiles. Highly dense and compact fibre structure, very good barrier properties, thermal insulation, wind resistance and UV protection and highly breathable with very good moisture management.

Microfilament fabric can be constructed to be impermeable to water droplets while allowing air and moisture vapour circulation, with good wicking properties.

04/11/23 Fabric Styling - Neha Singh

Page 71: Fabric studies final

04/11/23 Fabric Styling - Neha Singh

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Bath Products

04/11/23 Fabric Styling - Neha Singh

Page 73: Fabric studies final

04/11/23 Fabric Styling - Neha Singh

Page 74: Fabric studies final

04/11/23 Fabric Styling - Neha Singh

Page 75: Fabric studies final

04/11/23 Fabric Styling - Neha Singh