EXPR

ESS YOUR

PROFESSIO

NALISM

GENDER-EXPRESSIVE

PROFESSIONAL W

EAR

BY SAMI G

ARDNER

EDUCATION & EMPLO

YMEN

T RESOURCE SP

ECIALIST

THE A

NCHOR PROJEC

T

ANCHORPROJECTARIZONA.ORG

WHAT WE W

ILL LE

ARN!

1. Introduction2. Legal issues &

Finding an Employer3. History of Office

Wear4. Style Tips5. Gender Diverse

Options6. Share Your Style

Tips

Presen

tation

Outline &

Objectiv

es

REAL TALK

LAWS, COPIN

G, AND SURVIVING

WHY I AM I DOING THIS PRESENTATION?• Many of you don’t/won’t have the privilege of being

able to search for the perfect inclusive workplace

• I am not doing this to force you to conform!

• I want you to have all the tools and information that you need to navigate workplace dress

• Its not as simple as saying “dress however you want too“ because depending on the industry, there may be little wiggle room in their dress code.

WHY I AM I DOING THIS PRESENTATION?• I want to help create

opportunities and doors for you!

• Being comfortable in the workplace helps productivity and hire-ability.

• Don’t think about this as compromise; think about this as building your professional brand and developing your style

IS THE LAW ON YOUR SIDE?

THE LAW IN ARIZONA• Since 2003, Arizona has prohibited

discrimination on the basis of sexual orientation in government employment and other public offices.

• Discrimination in employment on the basis of both sexual orientation and gender identity is prohibited by the following Arizona cities:

• Chandler• Flagstaff• Phoenix• Scottsdale (public employment)• Tucson• Tempe (public employment)

• This means that you can still get fired in most of Arizona for being gender-variant, queer, LGBTQ, etc.

YOU MAY FACE HARASSMENT

COWORKERS VS. CUSTOMERS• Customers are tricky because in America

were are told that the customer is always right… even when they are dead wrong.• Always pass harassing customers to the

supervisor on duty. • Set up a dialog with your supervisor on the

best way to handle offensive customers.• Maintain dignity until the transaction is over

or can be passed onto another coworker.• What about coworkers?

• Follow procedures outlined by HR in reporting harassment.

• Discuss situation with supervisor• Document any harassment and limit

contact with harassers to email, if possible.

WHAT IS UNLAWFUL HARASSMENT?The Equal Employment Opportunity Commission describes unlawful harassment

as such: “Harassment becomes unlawful where1) enduring the offensive conduct becomes a condition of continued employment, or2) the conduct is severe or pervasive enough to create a work environment that a

reasonable person would consider intimidating, hostile, or abusive.”

Keep in mind that workplace bullying and harassment can be hard to prosecute so legal action doesn’t produce the results as seen on TV.

CONSULT HUMAN RESOURCES AND YOUR SUPERVISOR WHEN FACED WITH HARASSMENT.

COMPANIES THAT WELCOME DIVERSITY• How do you find out if a

company is accepting?• The HRC has a database of LGBT-

friendly employers• ONE Community is a statewide

organization that promotes LGBT-friendly companies• Check to see if they are an Equal

Opportunity Employer• Go to LGBTQ job fairs and events to see

which companies sponsor and participate.• LGBT-themed job sites like OutforWork

or Tucson LGBTQ Job Leads on Facebook• Word of mouth

BRAINSTORM

WHAT DO YO

U THINK

WHEN YOU HEAR TH

E

TERM: PROFESSIONAL

WEAR?

EVOLUTION OF PROFESSIONAL WEARBeau Brummell created the modern men's suit, worn with a necktie.  He took five hours to get dressed, and advocated that boots be polished with champagne.  He started the trend called dandyism.These European trends were carried across the world as colonialization and globalization raised up European/English fashion above cultural garb.

MODERNIZATION & CONFORMITYSome cultural leaders fought back against European trends while some embraced it and forced it on their people.Peter the Great decided to remake ‘backwards’ Russia by instituting European fashion and forcing citizens to change their clothes and even personally cutting off their beards!

SUITS CAN BE REBELLIOUS Suits have been a symbol of:•Conformity•Populism•And•Rebellion These young men are 1940s Zoot Suiters who were persecuted and called ‘gangsters’ because of their race and adaptation of the suit.

WHY NEUTRALS, NAVYS, & MONOCHROMATIC COLORS?Neutrals, Navys, and monochromatic blacks and whites are the classic colors for office wear and now are associated with conformity.

Yet in the beginning of the modern era, they were seen as populist colors because they were made from more affordable dyes.

European nobles had many laws concerning clothing with the aim to not let commoners be confused with the nobility.

WHY NEUTRALS, NAVYS, & MONOCHROMATIC COLORS?

There is a reason why the guy tending to the fire is dressed in brown and everyone else is in fancy colorful robes!

BUSINESS FASHION

1920S-1990S

HISTORY OF PROFESSIONAL WEAR IN 1900S

In the 1920s and 1930s, there isn’t much of a distinction between work wear and casual wear. Both sexes were expected to dress modestly with jackets/long sleeved shirts with skirts (women) or trousers (men).

HISTORY OF PROFESSIONAL WEAR IN 1900S

In the 1940s and 1950s, WWII and the Cold War affect fashion by emphasizing conformity and conservatism. Wartime rationing of fabric leads to the rise of single-breasted suits and women forgoing their stockings. The 1950s might have lead to more abundance but fashion was still austere in the office.

HISTORY OF PROFESSIONAL WEAR IN 1900S

In the 1960s and 1970s, color returns to the workplace and men’s fashion enters its most fabulous era since the French nobles of Versailles. Female clothing is losing its standardization but no clear cut work uniform for woman has taken its place. Patterns are approved, but a sense of reserve in the length of sleeves, dresses, and trousers remains.

HISTORY OF PROFESSIONAL WEAR IN 1900S

In the 1980s and 1990s, the excesses of the 60s and 70s takes men’s fashion back to basics. Masculine touches are added to feminine office wear as women try to break through the glass ceiling. Think Hilary Clinton’s trademark pant or skirt suits. Then the 90s were all about the khakis. For everyone.

WHAT HAVE WE LEARNED FROM HISTORY?• There has been a tried

and true masculine fashion choice for the office for centuries.

• There is no such office default for feminine people and masculinization of feminine fashion is the norm. • Neutral colors and a reserved style of dressing has had the longest staying power of office wear trends.

• What do you think What do you think about the evolution of about the evolution of office wear?office wear?

GENERAL RULES FOR PROFESSIONAL WEAR

• Now that you know the history, what do you think are some general rules for professional wear?

TODAY’

S WORKPLA

CE

STYLE

THE NITT

Y GRITT

Y

Finance/Banking:• Conservative and formalSales• Should correspond with the trendiness of your product and customer

base.Government• Don’t be flashy or fancy

DRESS CODES BY INDUSTRY

Do you have an industry dress code that you would like to share?

Hospitality/Medical/Manufacturing•Uniforms commonArchitecture /Advertising/ Media/Publishing/ PR•Business casual with lots of personalityNon-Profits/Academia•Varies by region but generally business casual to casual

DRESS CODES BY INDUSTRY

Do you have an industry dress code that you would like to share?

REGIONAL DIFFERENCES IN USA

Outfits are more casual in Tucson and the rest of the West Coast.

INTERVIEWING CLOTHES VS. WORK OUTFITS• Always dress more formally than

the office culture. • You can’t remake a first

impression. • Dressing well shows the

interviewer that you are respectful, committed, and knowledgeable about business norms.

5 TIPS TO BUILD A PROFESSIONAL WARDROBE• Choose timeless pieces and

avoid fads.• Choose a color scheme so pieces

can mix and match. • The shoes should be closed-toed

and comfortable.• Insoles can turn pumps into

workhorse shoes.• OSHA requires closed-toes shoes

for many workplaces. Check your company’s dress code.

• Make sure that the outfits fit your company’s level of professional dress.

• Durability is key.

HAIR STYLES

Workplace hair has its controversies especially when it has to do with People of Color. Check your employee dress codes but be aware that more POC folks are going natural with their hair and it has been upheld by EOE Commissions.

HAIR STYLES

• Your hair should be tidy and clean with no artificial coloring.• Some workplaces now allow unnatural

hair colors but don’t expect it.

HAIR STYLES

• Your hair shouldn’t cover your face. Bangs should be cut at your eyebrows.

• Masculine styles are generally more conservative when it comes to bangs.

HAIR STYLES

Note: The Native American man in professional dress is not being gender non-conforming with his braids. Many native tribes hold braids on men with special significance. Remember European-influenced styles gender non-conformance is not universal.

• Makeup and Accessories

• Less is always more when it comes to accessories and makeup.

• Choose strategic pieces.

• Example Makeup:• Neutral eyeshadow• Brown/Black Mascara• Tinted lip balm• Note: Some industries

accept and expect more flair with one’s makeup.

MAKE UP

THINK ABOUT YOUR PERSONAL BRAND AKA PROFESSIONAL STYLEBRAINSTORM YOUR BRAND

• Don’t confusion gender expression with professional style.• You can do both, but most

people have to dress differently for work.

• Take cues from your industry’s style standards.

FINAL WORD• Find the

intersection where your comfort level and your company’s dress code intersect.

• Style Resources:• Gigi Gorgeous (Youtube)• ftmguide.rassaku.net• JacobTobia.com• Autostraddle.com Fashion Blog• Qwearfashion.com

GENDER FABULO

US

STYLE EXAMPLE

S, TIPS, A

ND SUGGESTIONS!

Before my transition, I purchased all of my "male" attire (with the exception of neck ties) in "women's" clothing stores or in the "women's" department of a department store. It IS entirely possible to get a really good, masculine and tailored look entirely comprised of women's button down collared shirts, dress slacks, trouser socks and dress flats... No one else ever noticed that the buttons buttoned on the "wrong side" or that the fly was backward, but I did and it made me feel comfortable in at least having some sort of feminine expression, even though I was the only person who knew anything about it.

- Gina H., Association of Transgender Professionals

GENDER FABULOUS

“My personal approach to dress at GT Inc was to stick strictly to the “male” dress code, making sure to stay with traditional slacks, button down dress shirts and ties. So what I was wearing were acceptable business garments but not “female” business dress.” First Boi In – Dressing Queer in the

Corporate World by Carolyn Wysinger -mediadiversified.org

GENDER FABULOUS

This is a great look because of:•Quarter-Length Sleeved Cardigan•Complimentary Scarf•Well-Coiffed Hair

Trav Mamone

GENDER FABULOUS“So why would a sartorial profile so obviously marginal, so obviously outside the mainstream, so obviously fraught with subcultural meaning and potential controversy, have absolutely no observable impact on her level of professional success?

And it’s a theory my partner shares from her own subjective experience of her life. The theory is: she is completely and totally at ease with who she is, and so people respond with similar ease to who she is, instead of getting hung up on what she “signifies.”” How To Dress for an Interview as a Butch

Dyke- The Professor Is In.com

GENDER FABULOUSWhat do you think of these outfits?

- Autostraddle

Suits are excellent--or even dress shirts and pants. A little more or less color, a little softer or more structured cut of shirt. One can look feminine or masculine or androgynous in the same suit, depending on how you style your hair and how you accessorize.

-Tyghe D, Association of Transgender Professionals

GENDER FABULOUS

Lose the Smoke and This is an Office Hit!•Bow tie balances out untucked in shirt•Nice natural color scheme•Natural makeup

-Autostraddle

This outfit would be good for an everyday professional look. The scoop neck is not too low, flats are comfortable but also provide a sense of professionalism, and the patterns are not overly garish. The colors are muted, which can fall in line with some dress codes, and for an interview an open fitted blazer or jacket can be added to dress the look up.

GENDER FABULOUS – MISS JAI’S PICKS

This long sleeve dress and leggings combination is both a little casual and a little business. The leggings are not being worn as pants on their own and would be covered by the long dress top. The dress is cut a little lower, and a neutral color camisole or short tee-shirt could be used to prevent the top from being too revealing. A half boot and the pattern in the dress add a fun mix of masculine to the feminine look, for folks who are looking to gender express. The dress could be challenging because of chest darts, which can pucker for male-bodied folks

GENDER FABULOUS – MISS JAI’S PICKS

This outfit is more for the wow factor. There are lots of times that we are told that our professional dress much match a certain look, clean lines, more on the masculine side, and not too flashy. This outfit however I feel can be perfectly acceptable as professional wear because of its components. The skirt is long, so again not showing too much skin, worn in conjunction with the tank top it can look like a long dress that is intentionally brighter on top. Tank tops are often not considered professional, so covering with an open jacket can help with that. Having something that has a bit of shimmer to it can provide that fun femme feel without losing the professional quality. And finally the shoes, though they may not be considered traditionally professional, they are certainly fun and again give the wearer the opportunity to gender express/gender bend while maintaining a sense of professional dress.

GENDER FABULOUS – MISS JAI’S PICKS

GENDER FABULOUSWhich Outfit Is Best?

-Huffington Post

GENDER FABULOUSWhich Outfit Is Best?

• Bold yet neutral colors

• Reserved sleeve and skirt lengths

• Minimal jewelry

-Huffington Post

FREE RESOURCES FOR

WORK CLOTH

ES• My Sister’s Closet• Make an Appointment –

Email info@ywcatucson.org or call 520-884-7810 to make a one-hour appointment Monday through Thursday 9-4pm

• Feminine clothes only• Eon/Mshape• St. Vincent de Paul• Masculine and Feminine

clothes

In Tucso

n!

LOW-COST ID

EAS F

OR

CLOTH

ES • Goodwill• Savers• Clothes

Swaps with Friends

Recyc

le, Upcy

cle, S

wapcy

cle!

BRAINSTORM YO

UR OWN

STYLE

WHAT DO YO

U THINK OF A

LL TH

ESE

DIFFERENT S

TYLE CHOICES?

THANK YO

U!

Go Fort

h And Look

Fabulou

s, Prof

essio

nal,

and Quee

rly Yo

u!