Effect of stitch length on Lycra And Without Lycra plain Single jersey fabric dimension & properties

EFFECT OF STITCH LENGTH ON LYCRA AND WITHOUT LYCRA PLAIN SINGLE JERSEY FABRIC DIMENSION &

PROPERTIES

PRESENTATION ON

EFFECT OF STITCH LENGTH ON LYCRA AND WITHOUT LYCRA PLAIN SINGLE JERSEY FABRIC

DIMENSION & PROPERTIES

Prepared By : Mazadul Hasan sheshirID: 201000040000813th Batch (session 2009-2013)Department : Wet Processing Technology Email: [email protected] : www. Textilelab.blogspot.com (visit)

Southeast University Department Of Textile

EngineeringI/A 251,252 Tejgaon Dhaka Bangladesh

Prepared By :

INTRODUCTION

Knitted fabrics are the preferred structures in athletic wear in which demand for comfort is

a key requirement. Fabric properties are an important matter to produced athletic fabrics.

In this study, an experimental work is presented to determine the effects of stitch length on

plain single jersey cotton fabric with lycra and without lycra. The experimental work is

going through various tests, test results, graphical representation and remarks on the test.

Dimensional properties, pilling resistance, spirality, fabric thickness, and some color

fastness test are analyzed to get information about the effect of stitch length on plain

single jersey fabric.

From the analyses of variance, it is seen that the effects of stitch length on the dimension

and properties of the Plain single fabrics inspected are highly significant.

SAMPLE FABRIC PRODUCTION

Fabric Type : Plain Single Jersey (Lycra & without Lycra)

Yarn Type : Cotton (combed)

Yarn Count : 26 Ne, 70D

Stitch Length : 2.76mm, 2.97mm, 3.15mm

Machine ParametersBrand name of m/c : Jiunn long (Taiwan)

Machine Diameter : 26 inch

No of Feeder : 78

Needle Gauge : 24

No of Needle : 1968T

Machine speed : 26 rpm

DIFFERENT TESTS & CALCULATION

Tests on Grey Sample Fabric Spirality Test. Pilling Test. GSM Calculation. CPI, WPI & Fabric Width Calculation. Dimensional Stability Test. Fabric Thickness Test.

Tests on Dyed Sample Fabric Color fastness to Rubbing Color Fastness to Wash Color Fastness to Perspiration

SPIRALITY

Spirality can be defined as a fabric condition resulting when the knitted wales and courses are angularly displaced from that ideal perpendicular angle.

In other words, Spirality" arises from twist stress in the constituent’s yarns of plain fabric, causing all loops to distort and throwing the fabric wales and courses into an angular relationship other than 90 degree.

IMPACT OF FABRIC STITCH LENGTH ON SPIRALITY

Plain S/J Fabric without Lycra

Stitch Length(mm)

No. of Feeders

Spirality %

2.76 78 6.15

2.97 78 8.10

3.15 78 9.5

2.76 2.97 3.150.00%

1.00%

2.00%

3.00%

4.00%

5.00%

6.00%

7.00%

8.00%

9.00%

10.00%

6.15%

8.10%

9.50%

Stitch Length

spir

alit

y %

Plain S/J Fabric with Lycra

Stitch Length(mm)

No. of Feeders

Spirality %

2.76 78 2.15

2.97 78 3.10

3.15 78 3.50

2.76 2.97 3.150.00%

0.50%

1.00%

1.50%

2.00%

2.50%

3.00%

3.50%

4.00%

2.15%

3.10%

3.50%

Stitch Length

spir

alit

y %

PILING

Pilling is a surface defect of textiles caused by wear, and is considered unsightly. It happens when washing and wearing of fabrics causes loose fibres to begin to push out from the surface of the cloth, and, over time, abrasion causes the fibres to develop into small spherical bundles, anchored to the surface of the fabric by protruding fibres that haven't broken.

Fig: Pilling of Fabric

IMPACT OF FABRIC STITCH LENGTH ON PILLING


Stitch Length(mm) Pilling Scale Grade (out of 5)

2.76 4/5

2.97 3

3.15 2/3

2.76 2.97 3.150

0.5

1

1.5

2

2.5

3

3.5

4

4.5

5

4.5

3

2.5

Stitch Length

Pilli

ng S

cale

Gra

de

Graph: Graphical relationships between stitch length and pilling (lengthwise)

Stitch Length(mm)

Pilling Scale Grade (out of 5)

2.76 4

2.97 3

3.15 3

Table: Impact of stitch length on pilling (Widthwise)

2.76 2.97 3.150

0.5

1

1.5

2

2.5

3

3.5

4

4.5

4

2.5

3

Stitch Length

Pilli

ng S

cale

Gra

de

Graph: Graphical relationships between stitch length and pilling (widthwise)


Stitch Length (mm)

Pilling Scale Grade (out of 5)

2.76 4

2.97 4

3.15 4

Table: Impact of stitch length on pilling (lengthwise)

2.76 2.97 3.150

0.5

1

1.5

2

2.5

3

3.5

4

4.5

4 4 4

Stitch Length

Pilli

ng S

cale

Gra

de

Graph: Graphical relationships between stitch length and pilling (lengthwise)

Stitch Length (mm) Pilling Scale Grade (out of 5)

2.76 4

2.97 4

3.15 4

Table: Impact of stitch length on pilling (Widthwise)

2.76 2.97 3.150

0.5

1

1.5

2

2.5

3

3.5

4

4.5

4 4 4

Stitch LengthPi

lling

Sca

le G

rade

Graph: Graphical relationships between stitch length and pilling (Widthwise)

GSM

The GSM of fabric is one kind of specification of fabric which is very important for a textile engineer for understanding and production of fabric. ‘GSM’ means ‘Gram per square meter’ that is the weight of fabric in gram per one square meter. By this we can compare the fabrics in unit area which is heavier and which is lighter.

There are two formulas for calculating the GSM of a knitted fabric

Course per inch X Stitch length X 39.37 X 39.37 X Tex

GSM = ----------------------------------------------------------------------

1000 X 1000

And

WPI X CPI X SL (mm)

GSM = ----------------------------- X 0.9155

Count (Ne)

IMPACT OF FABRIC STITCH LENGTH ON FABRIC GSM

Plain S/J Fabric without Lycra & with Lycra

Plain S/J

Fabric without Lycra

Stitch Length (mm)

GSM

Plain S/J

Fabric with

Lycra

Stitch Length (mm)

GSM

2.76 152 2.76 240

2.97 141 2.97 234

3.15 127 3.15 220

2.76 2.97 3.150

50

100

150

200

250

300

152141

127

240 234220

Without lycra

With Lycra

Stitch Length

GSM

COURSES PER INCHCourses per inch mean how many numbers of courses are present in one inch. It is also very

important for calculation of knitted fabric GSM.

WALES PER INCHWales per inch means how many numbers of wales are present in one inch, it is very important

for calculation of knitted fabric GSM and fabric properties.

Calculation of Fabric WidthWe calculated the fabric width by using following formula –

Total no of Wales/Total no of needleFabric Width (open width) = ---------------------------------------------

WPI

IMPACT OF FABRIC STITCH LENGTH ON CPI, WPI & FABRIC WIDTH

Stitch Length (mm)

CPI WPI Fabric Width(Inch

2.76 54 29 67.9

2.97 48 28 70.3

3.15 44 26 75.7

2.76 2.97 3.150

10

20

30

40

50

60

70

80

54

4844

29 28

26

67.970.3

75.7

CPIWPIF.W

Stitch Length

CPI,W

PI&

F.W



Stitch Length (mm)

CPI WPI Fabric Width(Inch)

2.76 67 37 53.2

2.97 64 35 56.2

3.15 60 33 59.6

2.76 2.97 3.150

10

20

30

40

50

60

70

80

6764

60

3735 33

53.2 56.2

59.6

CPIWPIF.W

Stitch Length

CPI,W

PI&

F.W

DIMENSIONAL STABILITY

This is a test method for measuring the changes in fabric dimension when subjected to changing humidity conditions. The dimensional stability relating properties, namely relaxation shrinkage and hygral expansion, are measured. Relaxation shrinkage is defined as the percentage change in dry dimensions of fabric measured after 30-minute relaxation in water at room temperature. Hygral expansion is defined as the percentage change in dimensions of relaxed fabric from wet condition to dry condition.

IMPACT OF FABRIC STITCH LENGTH ON FABRIC DIMENSIONAL STABILITY

Stitch Length (mm)

Lengthwise Shrinkage

(%)

Widthwise Shrinkage

(%)

2.76 5 20

2.97 6 18

3.15 5 11.5


2.76 2.97 3.150%

5%

10%

15%

20%

25%

5%6%

5%

20%

18%

12%L.W.SW.W.S

Stitch Length

Shrin

kage

Per

cent

age


Stitch Length (mm)

Lengthwise Shrinkage

(%)

Widthwise Shrinkage

(%)

2.76 14 11

2.97 16 13

3.15 6 18

2.76 2.97 3.150%

2%

4%

6%

8%

10%

12%

14%

16%

18%

20%

14%

16%

6%

11%

13%

18%

L.W.SW.W.S

Stitch Length

Shr

inka

ge P

erce

ntag

e

FABRIC THICKNESSFabric thickness is defined as perpendicular distance through the fabric, which determines the dimension between the upper and lower side of the fabric

Fig: Fabric Thickness Tester

IMPACT OF FABRIC STITCH LENGTH ON FABRIC THICKNESS


Stitch Length (mm)

Fabric Thickness (mm)

2.76 0.5

2.97 0.47

3.15 0.38

2.76 2.97 3.150

0.1

0.2

0.3

0.4

0.5

0.6

0.5

0.47

0.380000000000001

Stitch Length

Fabr

ic Th

ickne

ss (m

m)


Stitch Length (mm) Fabric Thickness (mm)

2.76 0.70

2.97 0.57

3.15 0.52

2.76 2.97 3.150

0.1

0.2

0.3

0.4

0.5

0.6

0.7

0.8

0.700000000000001

0.57

0.52

Stitch Length (mm)

Fabr

ic Th

ickne

ss (m

m)

IMPACT OF FABRIC STITCH LENGTH ON COLOR FASTNESS TO RUBBING

Stitch Length (mm)

Grey Scale Grade( Dry)

Grey Scale Grade( Wet)

2.76 4/5 3

2.97 4/5 2/3

3.15 4/5 2/3


2.76 2.97 3.150

0.5

1

1.5

2

2.5

3

3.5

4

4.5

5

4.5 4.5 4.5

3

2.5 2.5

DryWet

Stitch Length

Grey

Sca

le G

rade


Stitch Length (mm)

Grey Scale Grade( Dry)

Grey Scale Grade( Wet)

2.76 4/5 2

2.97 4/5 2/3

3.15 4/5 1/2

2.76 2.97 3.150

0.5

1

1.5

2

2.5

3

3.5

4

4.5

5

4.5 4.5 4.5

2

2.5

1.5

DryWet

Stitch Length

Grey

Sca

le G

rade

IMPACT OF FABRIC STITCH LENGTH ON COLOR THE FASTNESS TO WASH


Stitch Length (mm) Grey Scale Grade

2.76 4/5

2.97 4/5

3.15 4/5

2.76 2.97 3.150

0.5

1

1.5

2

2.5

3

3.5

4

4.5

5

4.5 4.5 4.5

Stitch Length

Grey

Sca

le G

rade


Stitch Length (mm) Grey Scale Grade

2.76 4/5

2.97 4/5

3.15 4/5

2.76 2.97 3.150

0.5

1

1.5

2

2.5

3

3.5

4

4.5

5

4.5 4.5 4.5

Stitch Length

Grey

Sca

le G

rade

IMPACT OF FABRIC STITCH LENGTH ON COLOR THE FASTNESS TO PERSPIRATION


Stitch Length (mm)

Grey Scale Grade

(Alkaline)

Grey Scale Grade (Acid)

2.76 2/3 3/42.97 3/4 43.15 2 3/4

2.76 2.97 3.150

0.5

1

1.5

2

2.5

3

3.5

4

4.5

2.5

3.5

2

3.5

4

3.5

AlkalineAcid

Stitch Length

Grey

Sca

le G

rade


Stitch Length (mm)

Grey Scale Grade

(Alkaline)

Grey Scale Grade(Acid)

2.76 3/4 3/42.97 2 23.15 2/3 3/4

2.76 2.97 3.150

0.5

1

1.5

2

2.5

3

3.5

4

3.5

2

2.5

3.5

2

3.5

AlkalineAcid

Stitch Length

Grey

Sca

le G

rade

CONCLUSION

The contributions and incessant efforts of all the group members to complete the project report are highly appreciative. The challenging environment in 21st century demands that textile education should be meaningful and responsive to develop a mechanism to produce dynamic and technically competitive human resource in order to meet the challenges of the global world. Right and effective strategies needs to be adopted for affecting quality improvements in textile education thereby making it relevant and useful not only for the sustained growth and development of the textile institutes but also in serving the societies in a progressive way.

1. Yarn Manufacturing TechnologyLink:http://www.facebook.com/pages/Yarn-Manufacturing-Technology/485014954866808

2. Fabric Manufacturing TechnologyLink:http://www.facebook.com/pages/Fabric-Manufacturing-Technology/459520217425605

3. Garments Manufacturing TechnologyLink:http://www.facebook.com/pages/Garments-Manufacturing-Technology/472364799463126

3. Wet processing TechnologyLink:http://www.facebook.com/pages/Wet-Processing-Technology-Dyeing-/468645219825404

4. Fashion-Design-and-TechnologyLink:http://www.facebook.com/pages/Fashion-Design-and-Technology/587655294583875?ref=ts&fref=ts

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https://www.facebook.com/pages/Garments-Manufacturing-Technology/472364799463126

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Education

Effect of stitch length on Lycra And Without Lycra plain Single jersey fabric dimension & properties