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A brief look at footwear worn during the dance crazes of the late 19th and early 20th century.
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Animal Dances
Pope Pius X (1835 –1914)
By the turn of the 20th Century dance floor behaviour was likened to that of animals and therefore to find each subsequent dance craze embraced the idea was no surprise.
Pope Pius X asked the faithful to forswear the animal mimicry and sanelyreturn to dancing the medieval, furlana.
Turkey Trot
Grizzly Bear
Fox Trot
The Turkey Trot
Thought to have originated in the night clubs of San Francisco‘sBarbary Coast in the early 1900s.
Dancers moved together, touched, pawed and intimately supported each other with their perilously off-balance gyrations.
Became popular after the musical revue, Over the River (1910)
Medium Heel Pumps (1904)
Hemlines rose and legstook on a new attraction.
Court shoes replaced theubiquitous boot and slanting Cuban Heelsbegan to be appear.
The Grizzly Bear
"Everybody's Doing' ItNow“
The Establishmentobjected and revelerswere arrested fordancing animal
dances.
The Tango
Rudolph Valentino
The Tango with its smooth suave Latin sensualness became the dirty dancing of the period.
No dance craze swept the world faster and brought millions of dollars to dancestudios.
The dance was banned in many places.
By 1913 the craze hit England and became a tea dance phenomenon.
Ladies Shoes circa 1913Kid leather and buttonstraps became all therage
The Louis heel was inVogue, and
Ladies shoes were robustand made for walking outas well as dancing.
TitanicThe Tango originated in Argentina and found its way to Paris
via the popular Atlantic luxury cruisers.
Dancing shoes from the Titanic found on the sea bed
The Fox Trot
Harry Fox (1882 - 1959 ) Irene and Vernon Castle
Roaring Twenties
Al Capone
Flapper Shoes
The Charleston and itsspin offs: the Shimmy,Black Bottom, andVarsity Rag were thedances of the trendynon- prohibitionists.
Flappers drank gigglewater and danced in theSpeakeasy to jazz.
The Charleston
The Black Bottom
ZeitgeistGlamorous dance shoessported designs andtrapping of rich and exotic culture.
Shoe styles of the midtwenties reflectedcontemporary eventssuch as the sensationalopening of the tomb ofTutankhamen.
Shoes were sturdy enough to withstand stresses imposed by fashionable dance crazes
The FlappersWoman's fashions ofthe 20s includedmore leg on show.
Daytime shoes wereneat and femininelooking, with ovaltoes and straight,high heels.
The1920s stood out as a bright, youth orientated period.
Shoes of the 1920sShoe designs of the20s reflected art
decostyle with mixtures ofleather and suede.
Many styles boastedof cushioned heelsfor dancing.
Shoes heels were often decorated
Fashionable mendressed in high quality,perfectly fitting clothingwhich flattered.
Fashionable two-toneshoes were thoughtmost brash.
The English Style
Towards the end of thedecade the Rumba fromCuba came like theTango with festeringsensualness as Caribbeanand African rhythms andmovements increasinglyinfluenced socialdancing.
The Rumba
The rumba was described as the vertical expression of a horizontal wish.
The Jazz Age
Spectators
It became chic to dance to jazz musicas social barriers between black andwhite communities were bridged. Theeffects on fashion were considerable.
Two-tone shoes (Spectators) became the zenith of fashion and wereconsidered elegant for both sexes.
Swing (Part One)
The Lindy
Swing steps were more athleticThan the Charleston. Dancerswere younger and dancing wasmore physical.
Inspiration for the new stepscame from many sourcesincluding thecLindy or LindyHop which was a dancerendition of CharlesLindberg's solo struggle acrossthe Atlantic in 1927.
Youth & Body Culture
The Muscular Christianity movement of the late 19th century advocated a fusion of energetic Christian activism and rigorous physical culture training.
Dance became a means of cutting loose from the hardships of reality of Post Depression and for working class people became an established form of escapism.
Dance marathons became incredibly popular with literally many people dancing until they dropped.
Popular Dances of the 30s
The Big Apple Suzi QThe Shag
Most of the dances wereNorth American but the UK, Lambeth Walk enjoyedintense popularity for aShort time.
The sensuous Sambaoriginated in Rio de Janeiroand was introduced at the1939 New York World'sFair.
Lambeth Walk and Samba
Shoes of the 30’s
Before to the Depression it was important to have shoes for both daytime as well as evening wear.
After 1929 most women preferred to wear styles which could be worn during the day as well as at night.
As hemlines dropped shoes took on high vamps and hugging heels. Toes were more rounded and court shoes became broader worn with 4 cm heels.
Dancing shoes were always well brushed
Straps were often highly decorated
Side and heel incorporated gold flecks
Leg Impact
Exotic hides
There were many variations onThe T strap with cutaway sidesAnd open toes.
Evening shoes were hard wearingand luxurious silks, satins, suedeand kid replaced the velvets ofthe beginning of the decade.
Exotic hides, such as python and
lizard remained chic.Black was vogue
T Straps
The classic court shoe was an everyday basic but the new look slender heeled sandals with ankle and "T straps" in reptile skins, soft kid, suede and satin were very much the desire of most.
The Business Shoe
Walking shoes for women were introduced during the economically depressed years of the early 30's.
As the economy improved fashion accessories included the business shoe broader more angular and with a lowered heel.
Adverts captured the style conscious consumer with practical additions.
The Sahara Sandal
The sandals of the thirties were made with sturdy soles for dancing while the open toes kept the foot cool.
In the absence of nylon stockings, legs were made up with cosmetics.
Elsa Schiaparelli
Elsa Schiaparelli was a major influence on fashion in the 30's and let shoe designer Perugia produced shoes with twisted metal heels, fish shapes and golden globes.
The collaboration with Salvador Dali to produce the famous shoe hat
The Platform
By the end of the decadethe platform sandal made its fashion debut.
Shortages of raw materials meant designers like Ferragamo improvised with non-traditional materials like cork.
The Jukebox
During the 1930s more American companies relied on dance records in jukeboxes to help support the dwindling market
As a direct result more bars and clubs added dance floors
The Record Player
With men at war the invention of the record player meant women could dance in their living rooms.
This was where the jitterbug grew up and had elements of other dances from previous times.
Named after the jitters or too much alcohol, participants suffered many injuries.
Swing Part Two (The War Years)
In the 30s the trend for faster dancing with vigorous acrobatic movements meant youths had to be pretty fleet of foot.
The jitterbug was danced to the music of Benny Goodman.
Jitterbug Shoes
Zoot SuitsThe zoot suit was condemned in many states and clergy warned the suit only appealed to pre-repentant Mary Magdalene kind of women.
In many versions the foot opening was so narrow that the trousers needed ankle zippers.
The fashion came to an end when L-85 restrictions on clothing were introduced in 1943.
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