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Topic

Controlling points, Faults, Causes and Remedies Involved in Different

Finishing Processes of Knit Fabric

SUPERVISING FACULTY: 

RAJIB SAHAASSISTANT PROFESSOR

DEPARTMENT OF TEXTILE ENGINEERINGSOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY

Prepared ByNAME ID NUMBER

IMRAN HOSSAIN 2009000400079

MD.SAIFUDDIN KHAN 2009000400034

Faruk Ahammed 2009000400007

TANZIR 2009000400016MD.AMINUL ISLAM 2009000400104

IntroductionIn textile manufacturing, finishing refers to

the processes that convert the woven or knitted cloth into a usable material and more specifically to any process performed after dyeing the yarn or fabric to improve the look, performance, or "hand" (feel) of the finished textile or clothing. The precise meaning depends on context.

ObjectsTo improve the appearance of the fabric, To improve the feel of the fabric by softening,

stiffening, etc.To improve wearing qualities of cloth by making it

shrink resistant, crease resistant or free from pills and soiling.

To make garments hold their shape and enable them to be worn without ironing.

To impart special properties to the fabric for specific end uses.

To set the texture of certain fabrics and make others dimensionally stable. 

To produce stronger and more durable fabrics.

Classification

Mechanical

Chemical

Permanent Or

Durable

Temporary

Permanent Or

DurableTemporary

Calendaring Raising Starchin

g

Finishing

Resin, Softening,

Mercirization, Water

Repellent.

Flowchart of machines used for Finishing of Knit fabricFor Tubular Form:

Hydro-extractor ↓

De-watering ↓

Dryer ↓

Tube compactor

For Open Form : Hydro-extractor

↓ De-watering

↓ Dryer

↓ Slitter

↓ Stenter

↓ Open Compactor

Hydro ExtractorFunctions:To extract water from fabric.It is used for collar, cuff, and when fabric

quantity is low.

Controlling point:Speed

Hydro ExtractorFaults Causes Remedies

Crease Mark

Damp fabric moving at high speed in twisted form, in the Hydro

extractor (Centrifuge)

Use anti Crease, during the Scouring & the

Dyeing process (The use of anti Crease,

swells the Cellulose & prevents the formation of

Crease marks) Spread the fabric in loose

& open form & not in the rope form, in the Hydro

Extractor.

DewateringFunction: To remove excess water from the fabric,

about 70-75%.Facilates the use of softener.

Controlling points:SpeedPadder PressureBallooning

DewateringFaults Causes Remedies

Wet Squeezer Marks

These marks are caused due to the excessive pressure, of the squeezer rolls of the Padding Mangle, on the wet fabric

Use the Padding mangle, only for the application of the softener.

Use a hydro extractor (Centrifuge) for the extraction, to avoid the squeezer roll marks.

Soon after extraction, open the fabric manually, to prevent crease marks in the damp fabric.

Softener Mark

Improper mixing of the Softener.

Improper running time of the fabric during application of softener.

Entanglement of the fabric during application of softener.

Maintaining proper reel sped & pumps speed.

Proper Mixing of the softener before addition.

Prevent the entanglement of the fabric during application of softener.

Slitting MachineFunction:Slit the tube fabric into open fromRemove excess water from fabric about 70-

75% waterControlling points:Slitting pointSpeedPadder PressureBallooning

Slitting MachineFaults Causes Remedies

Crease mark If ballooning is not

controlled

Proper ballooning of the fabric should be controlled by air flow before it passes through padder

Softener spot

If softener solution is not properly prepared.

If padder roller is not properly cleaned.

Softener solution should properly be prepared.

Padder roller should be cleaned properly.

Improper slitting Slitting is not done

following the slitting mark.

Observe whether sensor /operator is working properly.

DryerFunction:To dry the fabric Both open & tube form fabric can be dried

hereMainly GSM highly fabric is dried.

Controlling points:SpeedTemperature

DryerFaults Causes Remedies

Overheating and Shade Variation.

If speed and temperature of fabric is not properly controlled.

Temperature & speed should be controlled properly.

StenterFunction:Sometimes used to dry wet fabricControlled GSM of fabricControlled Dia of fabricControlled shrinkage of fabricControlled Spirality of fabricItem set of synthetic Fabric.

Controlling point:Temperature & Speed:

For curing of pigment dyed fabric

Stenter For Heat Setting

Fabric type Temperature Speed

Lycra 190°c 17-20 m/min

Polyester 185°c 17-20m/min

StenterOverfeedPadder pressureSkew and Bow

StenterFaults Causes Remedies

Startch stains and white lines on finished cloth

Starch stains and white lines on the finished cloth are produced because of incomplete dissolution of the starch in the padding liquour.

Fabric should be desized and restarched.

Longitudinal Creases

Longitudinal creases are produced if the cloth passes on non-uniform cylinders after starching.

The cloth should be padded in a solution of hot water and dried on an even surface.

Wrong and narrow width

Frequent stoppages during mercerization or drying produce cloth with non-uniform width.

Cloth should be passed again through the Stenter to get the required width.

StenterFaults Causes Remedies

Softener Mark

Improper mixing of the Softener.

Improper running time of the fabric during application of softener.

Entanglement of the fabric during application of softener.

Maintaining proper reel sped & pumps speed.

Proper Mixing of the softener before addition.

Prevent the entanglement of the fabric during application of softener.

Crease Mark

Poor opening of the fabric rope.

Shock cooling of synthetic material.

If pump pressure & reel speed is not equal

Due to high speed m/c running.

Maintaining proper reel sped & pumps speed.

Lower rate rising and cooling the temperature.

Reducing the m/c load.

Higher liquor ratio

GSM variation & width variation for lycra fabric.

Improper heat setting Mention properly heat setting.

StenterFaults Causes Remedies

Spirality problem Improper skew control Skewness of the fabric should

be controlled specially for single jersey fabric.

Overheating If temperature and speed is

not properly controlled. temperature and speed should

properly be controled.

Width problem

Improper width setting during stentering.

Improper heat setting of lycra fabric.

Width should properly be set during stentering.

Heat setting should properly be done.

CompactorFunction:Increases G.S.M. of fabricControl dia of fabricCalendar the fabric

CompactorControlling points:OverfeedWidthPadder pressure:

Chart Of Padder Pressure For Different Types of fabrics:

Fabric Pressure (lb/inch2)Single jersey 9-18

1*1 RIB 18-33

Double pique 18-27

Others 18

CompactorFaults Causes Remedies

Folding Marks

High pressure of the fabric Take Down rollers of the Knitting machine, on the grey fabric, is one of the main causes.

Too much pressure of the feeding rolls of the Calendar & Compactor is, the primary cause of the folding marks, in the knitted fabric.

Adjust the gap between the two rolls, as per the thickness of the fabric sheet (Pique, S.J. etc.)

Gap between the two Calendar rolls should be just enough, to let the rolls remove, the wrinkles in the fabric, but put no pressure on the fabric sheet, especially in the case of Pique & structured fabrics

Skewing or Diagonal Grain Lines (Wales)

Improper feeding of the fabric, while Calendaring & Compacting.

Keep a slit line on one side of the tubular fabric.

Use the slit line, as a reference line, to keep the grain lines straight, while feeding the fabric slowly, on the Calender, or the Compactor machines

CompactorFaults Causes Remedies

GSM Variation

Roll to roll variation in the, process parameters, of the fabric, like; Overfeed & Widthwise stretching of the dyed fabric, on the Stenter, Calendar & Compactor machines.

Roll to roll variation in the fabric stitch length.

Make sure that all the fabric rolls in a lot, are processed under the same process parameters.

The Knitting Machine settings, like; the Quality Pulley diameter etc. should never be disturbed.

Softener  Softening treatment is one of the most important chemical after

treatments in the textile industry. By softening treatment textile can achieve not only soft handle but also:

Some smoothness.   More flexibility.

Drape and Pliability.

Antistatic properties.

Luster.

Soft handle.

SoftenerTypes of softeners:  There are mainly four types of softeners which

are discussed below: Cationic Softeners.Anionic Softeners.Non-ionic Softeners.Silicon based Softeners.

SoftenerChemical

Softness

Lubricity

Hydro-philicit

y

Substantivity

Stability to

yellowing

None foamin

g

Anionic + ++ ++ – ++ –

Cationic +++ – – +++ – +

Non-ionic

+ – – – ++ +

Silicones

+++ +++ – to + +++ +++ to +

++

Comparison among various properties of different softeners :

Conclusion We all have tried our level best in accomplishing the project. Although

we know there was a vast chance and field for working with the project

but due to some lack of time we came up with best. We are greatly

thankful to the management and staffs of the companies namely

“MASCO TEXTILES INDUSTRIES”, “NAZ BANGLADESH LTD” AND

“PADMA POLY COTTON KNIT FABRICS LTD”. Without their constant

support it could not have been possible. In our project we came up

mainly with different kinds of finishing faults in different machines and

their remedies. We express our heartiest thanks to our project

supervisor and honorable teacher, RAJIB SAHA, Assistant Professor of

the Department of Textile Engineering for his logical guidelines,

constant inspirations, necessary instructions and proper supervision. We

could have done much better if we could have gathered more practical

based knowledge.

.

Thanks Giving First of all, I am grateful to the ALMIGHTY ALLAH for enabling us

to complete the project successfully.  I would also like to thank our respected teachers of SOUTHEAST

UNIVERSITY for giving us the opportunity and helping us in all possible ways to finish the project successfully and also for their valuable suggestions. My deepest appreciation goes to our honorable Chairman Professor SYED FAKHRUL HASSAN, Head, Department of Textile Engineering, SEU and A.N.M AHMEDULLAH SIR, CO-ORDINATOR OF THE DEPARTMENT for their continuous encouragement and valuable suggestions. We express our heartiest thanks to our project supervisor and honorable teacher, RAJIB SAHA, Assistant Professor of the department for his logical guidelines, constant inspirations, necessary instructions and proper supervision

  A special thanks to all other faculty members for their

continuous encouragement and valuable suggestions all throughout our work.

Thanks To All